*This is a video about how to repair a hole WITHOUT using plaster. I've made other videos about filling holes with other fillers such as EasiFill, which is awesome.* Meanwhile... Shop: gosforthhandyman.com/shop Join the Member Zone: members.gosforthhandyman.com Products I'm using: gosforthhandyman.com/products-i-use/ As mentioned in the vid, this video is specifically about filling holes WITHOUT plaster (hence the title). It's for situations where you need to fill and paint a hole *quickly* i.e. you don't have time to wait for plaster to set. For example if you need to fill the hole and paint within 10-20 minutes. I have other videos about filling holes with other products - *please Subscribe!* :-). Screwing: Defo screw the plug to the backing board if you can (mentioned this in the vid). Sometimes using the filler *behind* the plug will allow you to get the top surface exactly level with the surrounding drywall, e.g. if you're repairing damage and don't have the original plug. This saves putting skim over the plug. In the situation shown, where the skim is already on the plug, screwing it in place is absolutely fine. Bondo: It's not Bondo, it's BONDA. Made by Bondaglass-Voss. It's been extensively used throughout Europe by pro decorators for a long time as a better alternative for small repair jobs such as this where drying time is key. It has many advantages over traditional fillers and repair compounds. A bit more info about 2 part fillers here: gosforthhandyman.com/how-to-use-2-part-fillers/ *## FAQ ##* *Cracking / Tape:* 2-part doesn't crack. *California Patch:* Perfectly fine method but you'll need to wait for the plaster to set prior to painting. *Easyfill:* Easyfill is awesome and I use it myself. This method is for when you don't have time for Easyfill, plaster etc. to set. I have other videos about Easyfill. *QuickSet:* 5 Minute Quick Set - 5 minutes is the working time, not how quickly you can over-paint it. Most products suggest leaving it overnight prior to painting. 2-part fill can be painted in 10 mins. *Time Taken:* Couple of folk said this method takes too long. You can patch a wall AND paint it in under 20 minutes. If you're doing that with plaster then you're not waiting for the plaster to set prior to applying paint, not recommended. *Finish isn't as good:* It is. *Normal filler is easier to sand:* Yes, this is absolutely true but you have to wait WAY longer before you can sand it. *You showed a different wall at the end:* I didn't - watch to the actual end, next to the Cuppa Soup. Thanks for taking the time to read this before commenting! Love and hugs, Andy Mac x
Very handy tip, and excellent taste in the wall art !
5 років тому+3
In the US it's "Bondo". Benifits of The California Patch: * You don't need wood or screws or the tool to drive them. * You can use any thickness of drywall as the plug. * Small pieces of drywall are free and available almost anywhere. * Sanding and prep is way easier I carry a bit of EasySand 20 in a small Tupperware container and the putty knife. I can mix it in anything that's clean, a can or old yogurt container from recycling. A paper or styrofoam cup from the garbage - and simply discard it when I'm done. I like not having to carry multiple tools or equipment, and materials, and fasteners, etc..
I was just about to say the same thing..... maybe it didn’t come out the way he thought so he tried to trick us like we wouldn’t notice that wasn’t the wall he worked on. 🤷🏽♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️
Tip for you. Powder cornice adhesive can be used as a glue and a filler. It dries in 30 mins and can be sanded, doesn't smell, it dries white, and has a very fine finish like plaster.
Brilliant - great advice and witty. Not only informative, but it kept my attention. You can get a similar effect by keeping the disk from the hole cutter and constructing a new house around it! But on a serious note, thanks for taking the time and trouble to make such a good video.
Great advise..i'm a painter decorator and do the same with holes. Only i screw the plug in instead of sticking it with the resin mix stuff. And use the resin wood filler for any deeper parts first and then a lighter plaster joint filler for a feathered edge finish. The heat from the resin wood filler beneath speeds up the drying time the joint filler too. Keep up the great videos. I've learnt so much
Seriously, this is the exact way I have been repairing holes in drywall, plaster and lathe and even wooden walls for years. used what I learned from damage control training in the Navy! The only difficulty I would have with this is that I can't find ANY outlets exactly like the one in the video. And seriously, how can this have 1.1k thumbs down??? This is a right legit way to do this...
I'm going to be trying this on some big cracks that just won't go away. These are big cracks from moving a door and adding drywall. I've tried all the types of filler to fix the problem. I'm thinking of cleaning out a small trench and filling it with this wood filler, sand it and then paint over it. I'm not talking about the little tiny cracks here and there but a long crack down the wall on both sides of where the drywall meets. Suggestions if you have any?
Perfect method for filling over holes but personally I use and would recommend plasterboard joint filler instead of the stuff you put in. It sands down amazingly easy and it's easily mixed with up with water.
I agree Paul. I've been doing this for 30 years and Bondo is a hell of lot harder to sand. Maybe Gosforth Handyman doesn't know they make a 20 minute setting compound. He obviously doesn't know that hot water makes compound set twice as fast. That wall would have primer in under 1 hour if done right. Thats how the real Handyman does it. Time is money but his idea is ok for the homeowner.
When I was 15 there was a hole in the living-room wall where the doorknob kept hitting the wall each time it was opened. I could see small wooden slats running along in the hole and it was just driving me nuts that no one was doing anything about it. I didn't know WHAT I was doing, but I went into the basement and found a small bag of cement mix. I followed the instructions and mixed up a little batch. I packed it into the hole and smoothed it off. It dried beautifully and looked 100% better than before. The wall was wallpapered so it just looked like a grey spot on the wall. I was just a kid. I filled another hole in a brown hollow door 10 years later. I used some sort of cement that I found in the basement once again, and some brown liquid shoe polish to give it a brown color after it was dry. 10 minutes. 2 ingredients. Your video just reminded me of all that. And oddly enough, just today, I repaired a large old piggy-bank with a hole smashed into the top. Someone dropped something onto it. I gathered up the pieces and jammed them back together with some old rubbery glue that I found that was too old to really work. But I let it dry for two weeks and today I taped over the broken bits and the remaining hole with some layers of thin white medical tape. I'm going to spray paint the entire pig with bright red paint and put him outside on the steps as a garden decoration. He can be company for the gnome. I mean, the pig is very old. From 1970. You don't just throw something like that away. Couple of ingredients once again.
This is fantastic. I have been an electrical contractor for around 30 yrs. I often wondered how my holes were filled. All I need to know now is by who? Great vid A1 Mukka.
A dab of PVA or gap filling adhesive is great for sticking the batten into the back of the hole. PVA primer on the raw edge of the boards is also a good idea, though not if you don’t have time for it to dry. 😉 I usually find the skim falls off the cut piece of board. It probably needs a second coat in the middle. But a second coat fills it over easily enough.
Good video, one thing I would have mentioned is that the working time of the filler can be extended if you used less hardener. You put a huge amount of the hardener into your filler mix, which is why it went off so quickly
I don't know why anyone would complain. I've used this method myself and been quite happy with it. I'm glad you used a textured roller to apply the paint, as this often matches the original texture. Sometimes, I've used spray-can spackling or even hand-shaped a texture to match existing, whatever the job requires.
As a drywall finisher of 18 years I might have a different approach then your video shows. But I loved your video My professional opinion is that your patch is a perfect solution for somebody that wants to do a patch in a day and have it painted the same day. For those who say it would crack it wouldn't if you applied that product properly. Nice video
That's one way to do it, I do drywall professionally, you might want to talk to a pro, you might save yourself some time.. Hey guys it's a good handyman repair though, if it's a smooth finish wall your working with, it's a repair that should hold fairly well, for a flat surface yes, but if you have orange peel texture, knockdown or any kind of texture on the wall it gets a little trickier, I suggest hiring a pro then or find a video that shows how that's done if you're a good do it yourselfer. Hope I don't offend the author of the video, he did his best, otherwise good video, don't waste your time responding to trolls laddie, just ignore them!
I have done the same basic repair using drywall mud and needed a screw to screw the plug to the batten inside the wall. I didn't think about using epoxy filler which is a superior method. Excellent!
Used to be a painter, many moons ago lol. We used the body filler as well when the patch and paint had to be done in one day. When we had a bit more time, I loved the lightweight spackle, "Patch and Paint" was one brand; so light you think the gallon can is empty when you first pick it up lol. The beauty of it is that it does not shrink at all, very little water, and you can pack it very thick if need be, won't sag, kind of amazing.
Thank you so much for the good humor. I appreciate guys in our environment that don't always take themselves so seriously while giving sound advice. It's refreshing.
@@GosforthHandyman Thanks for making the video. I need to make a video, I have been, from setting the tools down to 1 coat of primer in 20 minutes, for 10 years. 30 min total with 2 coats of paint provided that the paint is homeowner stored and good.
This technique is obviously excellent because it put him in such good humor. Right, well done! I've been doing something very similar in a square shape, with wood behind, and with glue between wood and wall, and plugging with a chamfered plug of drywall board, but I fill the crack with a small amount of fast drying spackling compound. Cheaper, easier to sand, fewer steps, fewer materials, and still a same afternoon job.
Informative AND entertaining! I'm sitting here in Australia enjoying the accent, the humour and the knowledge. . And I subscribed after the straw comment. That made my day!
Always enjoy learning new techniques. If I don’t want to follow up and lose drive time over drying mud I’ll remember to employ your system. Great video brother 👍
You always have a few who see only the negative and completely miss the joy of learning and, in your case, the entertainment. Funny, funny guy. Ditto on the "wrong wall" comment. Thank you.
I'm from the U.S. and I'm glad to see some DIY things in the old countries. I just really like the slightly different vocabulary and pronunciation. And it was very helpful. The chamfering part.
Excellent video. Your humor may have gone unnoticed by some but it was much appreciated by me. Had me rolling when you read the viewer comments. Oh, and the repair instructions were good too. lol
@@bigrichard660 yeah I read that post it was kind of botched up but basically what I was trying to say was by taking a hole saw on a drill and cutting all your patches and cleaning the whole up with a hole saw you just insert the round patch with excess paper as your tape basically it's a butterfly patch but it's round
Nice work as usual Andy, thanks for the Vid. As a Spark having done lots of these holes for installing cables, one tip, if there are cables or pipes close by (having checked) cut the pilot drill down a bit if necessary then start the hole then when the blade has bitten in the board a bit, take the pilot drill out and continue the hole just enough to remove the board so as not to drill thro' pipes or cables. Fix the cut out boardback as you show then leave the rest to the Decorator! LOL.
Hi Andy, I do something similar, I use a hole saw 3mm bigger than the original hole saw. For example a 76mm hole saw will have an external cut of 76mm and an internal cut of 73mm ( blade 1.5mm on both sides) then use a 79mm hole saw to cut another plug out of a piece of plaster board that will measure approximately 76mm which will fit the original hole perfectly ! Keep the good videos coming mate. Col.
Hi Andy, after spending many, many years pulling wire in homes, I’ve found it better to pull the baseboard, cut your mouse hole behind the baseboard then just replace it and repair the caulk. Cutting holes in a customers wall is problematic especially if they are custom colours. 9 times out of 10 the customer doesn’t have any more paint.
Yeah tell me about it "Did you keep any touch up paint?" ...blank looks 🤣. Trouble here is that baseboards are normally so low you hit the baseplate of the stud wall. 👍
Ayyyyeee I thought I was the only one using two pack for plasterboard repairs! Here’s a few things I’ve picked up after using two pack for 10 years+ The raw edge of cut plasterboard can be incredibly friable. To achieve good adhesion it’s essential, in my opinion, to thoroughly clean or seal the edge. Defiantly use a wood primer of some description over it. Emulsion can often struggle to adhere, especially when it’s very smooth. I always find using a screw in where the centre bit hole is pulls the board in tighter and gets it flusher then using filler or adhesive to stick it. I personally find a couple of bits of batten with low expansion adhesive type foam behind the board really helps tie it all together and further prevent cracking. Failing that I have been known to use silicone. Foam is great especially when doing larger patches where two pack would be unpractical and joint filler/Ames are used. In this instance I have even tried and tested not using scrim tape to achieve a flatter finish in less time with less filler. It have only ever cracked (with foam only) when timber behind (joists/trusses) have been soaked from a leak for example and shrink back. In this instance I think even fibre taped joints would have cracked but at least you can then tape and joint over and still achieve a reasonably flat finish.
😊 Just don’t do like my neighbor did. After watching this video yesterday He came he came to my house with a 20+ year old router he had never used and asked for a chamfering router bit (he didn’t know what a chamfering bit was but he “just knew I would have one” ) I asked what angle, and what he was using it for. He said he didn’t know what angle and showed me this video. Told him you can’t use a router on drywall use a knife. He didn’t have a knife and insisted he wanted to use the router on the patch and in the kitchen...... He had a hole saw...... So I gave him an old high speed router bit, a scrap of drywall and a work table and a scrap of wood and clamps. Using the piece of wood I clamped it down and showed him to use the router, safety glasses, and dust mask and hah him test the router on the drywall scrap. Needless to say he was covered head to toe in drywall dust. He didn’t realize it and wanted to go “chamfer the edges in the kitchen. I showed him a picture of what he looked like and He wanted to anyway and said he would vacuum it. He had his vacuum out and routed it anyway. He again was covered with drywall dust as was his kitchen and most of the first floor. He said why didn’t you tell me. I told you 3 times I said. I said since you woke me up from a dead sleep earlier and didn’t ask if I would help you, you just started barking orders I would try to help. When you still wouldn’t listen you got Caspered. You still wouldn’t listen so your house got Caspered. I said I’m going home to get 2-3 hours of sleep. I’ll get up and help you patch the wall. He asked if it would be finished in time. I said yes BROTHER it will be finished in time before your birthday party..... Oh yeah..... Happy Birthday! I guess that will teach him to not wake me up before he is supposed to!!!! .... BROTHERS! 😊😊😊😊😊😊. Yes he is my neighbor....
It's a good idea, I like it, however, if you show a different wall as a finished project, you could've left the hole in the wall and put a shoe rack in front of it :D
These patch fixes are all well and good. The challenge is painting the fixed wall afterward to match the existing color. Some folks are lucky enough to actually have left over paint from a previous wall painting job and some people still have the sticker with the paint mix on it. But many times there is no paint to simply paint over the fix and you have to repaint the entire wall.
To speed up the priming process, you can use a spray stain block like polycell or no nonsense (screwfix), dries very quick. Please please don't give time to troll comments....every video is worth the effort, your audience are not all expecting the same material (If that makes sense) 👍 Will be catching up on your podcasts today, which are fantastic by the way......have a great weekend! 👍
I've used bondo for rebuilding rotted wood in doors and other places where you need to build out or replace wood -- but for filling drywall, 20 minute drywall compound is what you really want. Cheaper, and way easier to deal with. As fast or faster than bondo.
@@nelsoncasari5435 I have some of that -- it's OLD OLD 20 minute compound. It seems to set faster (or at least give you less working time) as it get older.
That’s a great repair I had an issue on drywall here in Australia we call it GypRock the toilet roll holder was ripped out and it had to go back to the same spot so i used a holesaw like you did and a product called fast dry liquid nails and I got some jumbo oversize popsicle sticks the really big ones put some glue on those placed them into the hole in the wall after holes swing it round pulled them toward me with a piece of string granted I had the luxury of letting it dry overnight then drilled a fresh plug with the same holesaw out of a patch panel and liquid nails that in and then used plaster topcoat to seal it all up and that was stronger than what it was to start with and I could re-drill holes and rehang the toilet roll holder off it without any dramas in fact I think it was so strong it would hold a towel rail with wet towels on it no problem......!! It’s a brilliant repair
I have a section of plasterboard to replace where a ceiling light rose was removed, I’ll be using your tips and advise. I just need to find a small off-cut of donor/plasterboard. Thanks in advance, and ignore those abusive comments, I liked your laid back style and attention to detail.
I had a manic electrician who left my ceiling and walls looking like swiss cheese. I had five or six holes like this to sort out, and I think my method works well, no two part epoxy resin or filler, and easy sanding at the end. First, get a bit of batten like Gosforth does. Put the screw into the centre, like he does. Get some Gripfill (in a mastic cartridge with a mastic gun. Put the batten into the hole and put a bit of gripfil on each end (only). Make the batten central to the hole, and pull gently to make sure the gripfill is gluing the batten to both ends, behind the hole. After a few moments you can let go, and get a cuppa to leave it set for ten - fifteen mins. Now, the gripfill between the back of the board, and the front of the batten, gives you a little thickness slack for fixing the repair plaster. Do the same thing as Gosforth, and preserve the circular plaster drilled out in the first place. If not possible, use the SAME drill to make new pieces the same size and thickness out of some spare plasterboard. Now, put a bead of gripfill onto the face of the batten. dont overdo the quantity. Have a spare bit of batten, or a ruler or similar handy. Press the plasterboard into the timber and hold it a second, then get the batten, straddle the hole from left to right and press to 'sink' the plasterboard into the right position. Turn the batten vertical and do the same across the top to bottom. Gently place the batten left to right, again, to check, and top to bottom, to check. Leave it set for another cup of tea, ten - fifteen mins. Finish off by using a plaster repair product, Wickes and Screwfix do one, probably get it anywhere. I would suggest using production paper, or sandpaper, to take the rough edges off the filling piece (Gosforth uses a stanley knife for this) and also the rim around the hole, where the drill kicked up the edge as it cut into the wall. That way, when you use the plaster repair stuff, it sets flat as a pancake. If you overfill, leave it set for a couple of hours, then return, and gently sand it. It sands very quickly so be gentle. This may sound a faff for one hole but if you have five or six to do, its good because you can work on them in a production line, so by the time you get number six under way, number one is ready for the next step!
The best way to see if you need to add a final bit of filler in any tiny holes that may remain is to paint over it. Paint has a remarkable ability to highlight any imperfections. Good job.
" Fill it with straw or something" The dripping sarcasm was excellent! LOL Thanks for that. I am sure all the drywallers out there are losing their minds - no tape! Yikes! Also, best troll comments yet! Cheers Andy. (EDIT) You had me laughing, real laughing by the end. That was priceless. Best video I've seen this week, hands down.
You may think that this isn’t such an interesting video but for those of us who are just trying to get good. Ideas on how to maintain our house, this kind of video is excellent
I've mucked around with carfiller since seeing you use it, I got rid of a crack on a ceiling along the join of two pieces of plasterboard by putting a one inch wide layer over it and feathered it out with drywall filler, no sign of it returning and it had been caulked twice before and always came back.
I use allot of Bondo at work. One trick I use to save time, apply a pice of wax paper onto your mixing board with spray adhesive and when you're done you can just peel it off and you have a clean mixing board. Cuts down on the dust also.
why did you use glue to fix the plug to the batten ,why not just use the screw you used to hold the wooden piece in place originally to fix it to the batten and fill no glue needed??
I have used this method for over 25 years I have also used 5 minute joint compound with hot water and it sets in 4-6 minutes the hot water speeds up the accelerator in the joint compound.
Score the back of the drywall to the size of the hole, flip drywall over and copy and cut pattern 1 inch around patch, from the back snap the drywall off and peel it from the paper. This will leave you a 1 inch flange all the way around your patch, put drywall compound on wall and place patch over hole with cut out pattern going into the hole. Put your knife in the middle of the patch and pull out to the edges to squeeze all of the drywall compound from under the 1 inch edge of paper. I use 20 minute patching compound for the patch. If you’ve done it right when it’s dry it will have sunk into the wall about a 32th of an inch. If you were looking for fast dry then use the 20 minute compound again. Let that dry for about four hours sand and finish. 🙂
I thought I knew all of this, but still watched till the end, because I really like all of your vids. Came to your channel from Ten minutefestool Millard shop. 👍 to that channel as well, I have a festool habit also. Then I learned something new about filler, again, great vid. Also, enjoyed you openly relaying the trolls comments. Found it funny that people have so little going on that they have the time to go to the effort Perhaps if you can find time you could as well as tips Tuesday, do toss pot troll Thursday. I would deffo watch that 👍 Thanks for creating the content, I have learned a lot and enjoy ya channel 👍
I love how you put those obnoxious commenters in their place. The one excrement says something about your mother and you reply: “dad”? Love it!! Great video.
Andy..... this is fantastic... I was in tears... the comment that was before out made me spit coffee out .. DAD???? 😂😂😂😂 This will def be in the aftershow 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Cut a square or rectangular hole and cut a piece of drywall an inch and a half longer and wider, turn over and scribe vertical and horizontal lines, top/bottom/right/left the same size as new hole.....break the back of the sheetrock off of the paper on the front. Put some sealer, bondo, taping mud etc. around the perimeter of the hole and slide the newly prepared piece of sheet rock into place, add more mud on the front with a wide spatula slowly/gently pushing the mud out from under the paper ears you left when preparing the piece to fill the new hole you made earlier. I sometimes soak those “ears” lightly in water which helps the mud flow out as well as adhering the two pieces together. Let the first coat dry and lightly sand if needed then apply a second thin coat, texture and paint. This is especially useful for door knob holes in a rental. Easy peasy!!!
I’ve been doing this for years as I’ve learn in the past when filling holes. It usually takes me max 2 hours because the paint application is quick dry. You don’t really need primer but good job!
That was informative and funny. Thanks for calling out the know-it-all's and nasty trolls. It was also nice of your dad to post that encouraging comment via an alias. Cheers mate!
I use a similar process except when I am done I show my customer the wall I repaired not a different random bit of wall. Also, I like to set the plug about 1mm below the surface then use 20 minute dry mix mud to finish the hole. When you place the mud it should be just slightly above the surface of the wall. Let it harden then sand the repair flat with the surrounding wall there should be no ring around the patch like you see at 14:00 in this video. Shine a glancing light on the repair to check for flaws. Before you make the repair take the plug to the paint store and get a can of matching paint. Prime the repair using a roller and check the surface again touch-up as necessary and once it is free of defects, roll on 2 topcoats. Most walls have a slight stipple texture from the roller so let the fresh coat of paint dry a couple minutes after you apply it then roll over it again to set a texture that matches the surrounding area. With a little practice, you can make a perfect repair that is completely invisible.
All you have to do is grip fill an old piece of plaster board to the inside using a screw in the middle to hold it Then come back and fill it in No screws to fill over
I enjoyed your video, but I think using a bit of drywall mud would be a better solution, less steps, easier to use. Pretty much the same result with a touch more waiting for it to set. But I do like the backing idea with the wood, that's a smart move. Thanks for the video and advice.
in the states we have 2 products called paint and patch, you can glue your plug in or just use a sheet rock screw in the center hole just don't screw it all the way past the sheetrock. Its just to temporarily hold the plug in place until the bondo wood filler or whatever drys. Patch and paint is water based plastic filler, if its drys out in the tub you can add water to make it smooth. Lumps will make you day a pain in the ass. so make sure its clean no lumps. Whatever you do do not use durham's water putty you need a grinder to sand the stuff its more like cement then filler. It says sandable on the carton but seriously with what? A jack hammer? Years ago I made that mistake once then did it a second time. We also have a filler that goes on pink and turns white when dry this is fast setting if its a thin coat. It's great for nail holes. I did not make a comment on your job because your right it is a Skill, one that takes a lot of practice, I'd suggest practice inside a closet or where its not going to be seen then try an area in plain sight after you get the hang of doing it. Or your going to be sanding a lot. Skip the sanding and use your putty knife to knock down the high spots then do a second coat. get your knife wet damp then try a skim coat. This was aimed at people who's never done it, not this author. As for his tips, I learned somthing I never thought about using bondo or a 2 part filler. I may have to try this once.
If I were to use soup, what kind should I use? I'd imagine a noodle soup would leave lumps. Maybe a consommé or bouillon? I'd never use my child's face. He has acne which would keep the finish from smoothing out properly.
Very handy video. Top tip for anyone who doesn’t own multiple or decent scrapers is to use an old credit or store loyalty card to flush the surface. I buy packs of blanks from eBay for a couple of quid and they make handy little filler knives and scrapers for jobs like this or for caulking (cracking little ice scrapers for windscreen too if you keep one in your wallet 😀). Cheers for the vid 👍🏻
@@Dime_Bar You are a nasty liar! TAKE IT BACK, LIAR! You most certainly did NOT give his mother your custard the other day, you dishonest bucket of arse gravy, ....cause I did!
This is almost the perfect way to do it. So much better than California patch repair and taping bollox I see on UA-cam. Only thing I do differently now is spray stain block over the filler. It drys faster than primer and also adds a semi thick but smooth effect to the filler thus, when painted drys with the same effect as the surrounding painted area. Can that bondo stuff be sanded nicely? Or is it still best to go over with the 2 part or something like gyproc?
There are non toxic options of fast setting fillers, I’ve used 20 and even 5 minute versions of drywall compound, or “rock hard water putty”... they all are powders you mix with water. Pro tip: the colder the water the slower it sets.
Sorry no Rock hard putty for me that shit you can't sand with a jack hammer. Funny my dad told me to use it once but he did plaster, and stucco back in the 50's I'll stick to premixed of patch and paint either version.
Bobbg I agree completely. You should never tell an amateur to use the quick drying mud because a mistake is practically unfixable. I do use it on a regular basis but to tell someone else to use it is asking for a disaster. The putty he showed in the video does not have this problem.
Couple of points. If you cut an irregular shape, you tend to get a better fit. The piece can only go back in the way it came out. Don't saw. Sharp knife and cut. Less gap, less to fill, easier to do. Also far easier to trim the raggedy edges because there is less of them. That said, you need to be handy with a knife. The screw in the middle of the timber used to hold the timber. If you use a 50mm screw, the screw head can be well away from the work face. So you can hold it with a claw hammer. If you screw your cutout piece to the timber, rather than stick it. You'll get a flatter finish because you're not battling the depth of the glue behind the board. Go slow screwing it because you're working with compromised plasterboard. Really enjoying the channel. Thanks mate
That is how I go about repairing holes myself. Perfect finish achieved quickly. Another tip would be that using two part car body filler can work out cheaper. Great vid.
Excellent and informative. Enjoy the comments where people don't get UK humour and those who don't read the title of the video and suggest using plaster.
I thought you offered good sound advice, which will save viewers a lot of time and money for those wishing to undertake such a job. Additionally, I found your video well put together with a level of entertainment thrown in so 10/10 for your efforts.
I have done lots of hole patch jobs and with less effort using joint compound. Cut the hole regular shape .... square or rectangle. Cut another piece of drywall larger than the wall hole. I usually go about 1/2" larger. Then on the BACK side of your patch score the patch to the wall hole size. Snap the drywall on the back and peel the gypsum off leaving the front paper intact. Put joint compound in the hole and around the outside of the hole. Put joint compound on the back edges of the patch. Put the patch into the hole so the patch is flush or slightly indented. Smooth the 1/2" paper edges into the compound on the wall. Finish over your patch with compound, sand and paint.
I like it when you chamfer the edge at 5:30 because I do it too. I prefer to use 1/2 inch plywood behind versus regular wood, less likely to split. I hold the plywood with a string. In west coast USA, I prefer "Hot mud", a white powder that you mix with water. It can harden in 5/10/20/45 or 90 minutes, sticks much better than premix and stronger. I use 20 to 90 minute ones, depending on how big of an area I am working. When it says 20 minutes, it begins to harden at 10 and very hard to work with at 15 minutes. I have never try anything less than 20 minutes, I do not work that fast. Paper tape or plastic netting over the join. Easy to sand when the surface is dry, which can be 24 hours, or speed it up with a heat gun. I can get by with 3 putty knifes, 2.5, 6 and 12 inches.
I liked that drywall repair. Nice and neat. Only thing I have to add is stir your mud first. If I'm doing a small patch like that I only stir the top couple inches. I stir it and fold it until it is like is the consistency of sour cream. Ma,especially a difference in texture and eliminates the bubbles.
When you put the filler on the wood didn't that make it so the plug was bound to stick forward more, why not use a drywall screw in the middle? The only issue with that filler is people complain about the smell, save lots of time though.
When I do this, I sometimes use a piece of a paint-stirring stick (the thicker sticks, for 5 gallon paint buckets will take a drywall screw without splitting). But if I don't have a stick, I make a triangle of corrugated cardboard and glue it in place, holding everything with a rubber band around the cardboard and then through the hole of the drywall plug (left by the drill bit for the hole saw). The downside is you have to wait for the glue to dry, for the next step, but that only takes a couple of hours. Since I use spackle or water putty, which don't stink, to fill the gap, my way has at least a 'wait for the spackle to set' period, before painting.
I prefer my primer stirred not shaken. Having that coffee mug right under where you are painting reminds my of Carly Simons Song: You so vane "Paint in my Coffee, Paint in my Coffee"
The wood batten that goes in first…use superglue (CA) or five minute epoxy to fix it in, instead of those drywall screws and you’ll have less to fill. It doesn’t need much strength to hold that plug. Safe core drilling: remove the centre pilot drill bit, put tape on the outside of the hole saw to mark a depth of millimetre less than the drywall thickness (if unsure go for 12 mm first). Without the pilot you’ll have to be slow are careful getting the saw started (an oversize circular ring shape can be used to guide it). Afterward, you should be able to run a blade lightly around the groove to release the plug without really penetrating into the cavity👍
It should be noted that the curing time for 2 part fillers of this type can be adjusted by using more or less hardener it will still cure however much is used ...even underwater very informative video's no silliness or attempts at comedy...keep it up Andy... and thanks.
Cut the hole Square, Cut a Piece of Rock an 1/4" longer on all for sides, Cut the rock off the 1/4" Leaving the front. Put rock in Square hole, Spackle, Sand, done.
*This is a video about how to repair a hole WITHOUT using plaster. I've made other videos about filling holes with other fillers such as EasiFill, which is awesome.*
Meanwhile...
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As mentioned in the vid, this video is specifically about filling holes WITHOUT plaster (hence the title). It's for situations where you need to fill and paint a hole *quickly* i.e. you don't have time to wait for plaster to set. For example if you need to fill the hole and paint within 10-20 minutes. I have other videos about filling holes with other products - *please Subscribe!* :-).
Screwing: Defo screw the plug to the backing board if you can (mentioned this in the vid). Sometimes using the filler *behind* the plug will allow you to get the top surface exactly level with the surrounding drywall, e.g. if you're repairing damage and don't have the original plug. This saves putting skim over the plug. In the situation shown, where the skim is already on the plug, screwing it in place is absolutely fine.
Bondo: It's not Bondo, it's BONDA. Made by Bondaglass-Voss. It's been extensively used throughout Europe by pro decorators for a long time as a better alternative for small repair jobs such as this where drying time is key. It has many advantages over traditional fillers and repair compounds. A bit more info about 2 part fillers here: gosforthhandyman.com/how-to-use-2-part-fillers/
*## FAQ ##*
*Cracking / Tape:* 2-part doesn't crack.
*California Patch:* Perfectly fine method but you'll need to wait for the plaster to set prior to painting.
*Easyfill:* Easyfill is awesome and I use it myself. This method is for when you don't have time for Easyfill, plaster etc. to set. I have other videos about Easyfill.
*QuickSet:* 5 Minute Quick Set - 5 minutes is the working time, not how quickly you can over-paint it. Most products suggest leaving it overnight prior to painting. 2-part fill can be painted in 10 mins.
*Time Taken:* Couple of folk said this method takes too long. You can patch a wall AND paint it in under 20 minutes. If you're doing that with plaster then you're not waiting for the plaster to set prior to applying paint, not recommended.
*Finish isn't as good:* It is.
*Normal filler is easier to sand:* Yes, this is absolutely true but you have to wait WAY longer before you can sand it.
*You showed a different wall at the end:* I didn't - watch to the actual end, next to the Cuppa Soup.
Thanks for taking the time to read this before commenting! Love and hugs, Andy Mac x
Gosforth Handyman hippp
Your last part showed a different section of the wall. So, thar didn't help to show whether you did a good job.
@@wjb1561 You're literally replying to the comment that explains this... holy hell... 😂
Very handy tip, and excellent taste in the wall art !
In the US it's "Bondo".
Benifits of The California Patch:
* You don't need wood or screws or the tool to drive them.
* You can use any thickness of drywall as the plug.
* Small pieces of drywall are free and available almost anywhere.
* Sanding and prep is way easier
I carry a bit of EasySand 20 in a small Tupperware container and the putty knife. I can mix it in anything that's clean, a can or old yogurt container from recycling. A paper or styrofoam cup from the garbage - and simply discard it when I'm done. I like not having to carry multiple tools or equipment, and materials, and fasteners, etc..
I loved how you showed the wrong wall at the end.
I was just about to say the same thing..... maybe it didn’t come out the way he thought so he tried to trick us like we wouldn’t notice that wasn’t the wall he worked on. 🤷🏽♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️
lol
Appeared legit to me.... 🧐😁
@@MrJreed03 It was a joke. Lordy... 😂😂😂
Gosforth Handyman oh okay....😂😂😂 my apologies.
Tip for you. Powder cornice adhesive can be used as a glue and a filler. It dries in 30 mins and can be sanded, doesn't smell, it dries white, and has a very fine finish like plaster.
Brilliant - great advice and witty. Not only informative, but it kept my attention. You can get a similar effect by keeping the disk from the hole cutter and constructing a new house around it! But on a serious note, thanks for taking the time and trouble to make such a good video.
Great advise..i'm a painter decorator and do the same with holes. Only i screw the plug in instead of sticking it with the resin mix stuff.
And use the resin wood filler for any deeper parts first and then a lighter plaster joint filler for a feathered edge finish. The heat from the resin wood filler beneath speeds up the drying time the joint filler too.
Keep up the great videos.
I've learnt so much
Seriously, this is the exact way I have been repairing holes in drywall, plaster and lathe and even wooden walls for years. used what I learned from damage control training in the Navy! The only difficulty I would have with this is that I can't find ANY outlets exactly like the one in the video. And seriously, how can this have 1.1k thumbs down??? This is a right legit way to do this...
I'm going to be trying this on some big cracks that just won't go away. These are big cracks from moving a door and adding drywall. I've tried all the types of filler to fix the problem. I'm thinking of cleaning out a small trench and filling it with this wood filler, sand it and then paint over it. I'm not talking about the little tiny cracks here and there but a long crack down the wall on both sides of where the drywall meets. Suggestions if you have any?
@@beebob1279 on both sides where the drywall meets? ? You mean the seam???
@@elfpimp1 Yes
Why not just used 5 min hot mud? When painted it will look different than the surrounding wall
@@kds471 🤨🤔
Perfect method for filling over holes but personally I use and would recommend plasterboard joint filler instead of the stuff you put in. It sands down amazingly easy and it's easily mixed with up with water.
I agree Paul. I've been doing this for 30 years and Bondo is a hell of lot harder to sand. Maybe Gosforth Handyman doesn't know they make a 20 minute setting compound. He obviously doesn't know that hot water makes compound set twice as fast. That wall would have primer in under 1 hour if done right. Thats how the real Handyman does it. Time is money but his idea is ok for the homeowner.
Also add salt and voila it’s will set in 5 minutes !
@@AliAhmad-gr6hk Some broth, a potato. Baby, you've got a stew going!
When I was 15 there was a hole in the living-room wall where the doorknob kept hitting the wall each time it was opened. I could see small wooden slats running along in the hole and it was just driving me nuts that no one was doing anything about it. I didn't know WHAT I was doing, but I went into the basement and found a small bag of cement mix. I followed the instructions and mixed up a little batch. I packed it into the hole and smoothed it off. It dried beautifully and looked 100% better than before. The wall was wallpapered so it just looked like a grey spot on the wall. I was just a kid. I filled another hole in a brown hollow door 10 years later. I used some sort of cement that I found in the basement once again, and some brown liquid shoe polish to give it a brown color after it was dry. 10 minutes. 2 ingredients. Your video just reminded me of all that. And oddly enough, just today, I repaired a large old piggy-bank with a hole smashed into the top. Someone dropped something onto it. I gathered up the pieces and jammed them back together with some old rubbery glue that I found that was too old to really work. But I let it dry for two weeks and today I taped over the broken bits and the remaining hole with some layers of thin white medical tape. I'm going to spray paint the entire pig with bright red paint and put him outside on the steps as a garden decoration. He can be company for the gnome. I mean, the pig is very old. From 1970. You don't just throw something like that away. Couple of ingredients once again.
This is fantastic. I have been an electrical contractor for around 30 yrs. I often wondered how my holes were filled. All I need to know now is by who? Great vid A1 Mukka.
Lovely video. I love the bit for the trolls.
Cheers bud! Gotta love them trolls! 😂👊
A dab of PVA or gap filling adhesive is great for sticking the batten into the back of the hole. PVA primer on the raw edge of the boards is also a good idea, though not if you don’t have time for it to dry. 😉
I usually find the skim falls off the cut piece of board. It probably needs a second coat in the middle. But a second coat fills it over easily enough.
Good video, one thing I would have mentioned is that the working time of the filler can be extended if you used less hardener. You put a huge amount of the hardener into your filler mix, which is why it went off so quickly
OMG
I SPIT MY COFFEE EVERYWHERE WHEN YOU READ THE TROLLY COMMENTS!! After that, I subbed!
I don't know why anyone would complain. I've used this method myself and been quite happy with it. I'm glad you used a textured roller to apply the paint, as this often matches the original texture. Sometimes, I've used spray-can spackling or even hand-shaped a texture to match existing, whatever the job requires.
Finally a person that gives you a complete walkthrough everything...
As a drywall finisher of 18 years I might have a different approach then your video shows. But I loved your video
My professional opinion is that your patch is a perfect solution for somebody that wants to do a patch in a day and have it painted the same day. For those who say it would crack it wouldn't if you applied that product properly. Nice video
That's one way to do it, I do drywall professionally, you might want to talk to a pro, you might save yourself some time.. Hey guys it's a good handyman repair though, if it's a smooth finish wall your working with, it's a repair that should hold fairly well, for a flat surface yes, but if you have orange peel texture, knockdown or any kind of texture on the wall it gets a little trickier, I suggest hiring a pro then or find a video that shows how that's done if you're a good do it yourselfer. Hope I don't offend the author of the video, he did his best, otherwise good video, don't waste your time responding to trolls laddie, just ignore them!
Your a troll yourself mate, jog on
I have done the same basic repair using drywall mud and needed a screw to screw the plug to the batten inside the wall. I didn't think about using epoxy filler which is a superior method. Excellent!
Used to be a painter, many moons ago lol. We used the body filler as well when the patch and paint had to be done in one day. When we had a bit more time, I loved the lightweight spackle, "Patch and Paint" was one brand; so light you think the gallon can is empty when you first pick it up lol. The beauty of it is that it does not shrink at all, very little water, and you can pack it very thick if need be, won't sag, kind of amazing.
I love the stuff but its went to 21 bucks for a bucket now Dap took over the company that made it.
whatd the stuff
Thank you so much for the good humor. I appreciate guys in our environment that don't always take themselves so seriously while giving sound advice. It's refreshing.
quickset (5 min mud/hot mud) would work just as fast and no worries if you mess up. Easily sanded
Nope because 5 min quickset needs min 20 mins to set after the final coat. 2-part can be sanded and painted in under 10 mins. See pinned comment. 👍
@@GosforthHandyman Thanks for making the video. I need to make a video, I have been, from setting the tools down to 1 coat of primer in 20 minutes, for 10 years. 30 min total with 2 coats of paint provided that the paint is homeowner stored and good.
IF THIS IS HANDY IM AN IDIOT FOR FIXINF HOLES IN 10 MINUTE WITH REAL DRYWALL PRODUCTS...THANKS FOR THE ENTERTAINMENT
But then you don't get the added cancer benefit. Sheesh.
@@GosforthHandyman Use hot mud and a heat gun, it will be dry in 2 minutes
There is nothing wrong doing videos about “filling holes”, they are some of my favourite videos for some reason!
I have been applying soup to my walls using my childs face for many years with remarkable results.
😂😂😂😂
Where’s child protective services when u need them?
That's got to be a UK joke reference..LOL XD first time i ever heard it.
@@slingbart705 Ya I am from Chicago and never heard it... I don't really get it! Lol!
@@tamarasamec9673 Me too, well South Burbs anyway
This technique is obviously excellent because it put him in such good humor. Right, well done!
I've been doing something very similar in a square shape, with wood behind, and with glue between wood and wall, and plugging with a chamfered plug of drywall board, but I fill the crack with a small amount of fast drying spackling compound. Cheaper, easier to sand, fewer steps, fewer materials, and still a same afternoon job.
Informative AND entertaining! I'm sitting here in Australia enjoying the accent, the humour and the knowledge. . And I subscribed after the straw comment. That made my day!
Always enjoy learning new techniques. If I don’t want to follow up and lose drive time over drying mud I’ll remember to employ your system. Great video brother 👍
You always have a few who see only the negative and completely miss the joy of learning and, in your case, the entertainment. Funny, funny guy. Ditto on the "wrong wall" comment. Thank you.
I agree, any people with negative comments should make their own video.
I'm from the U.S. and I'm glad to see some DIY things in the old countries. I just really like the slightly different vocabulary and pronunciation. And it was very helpful. The chamfering part.
Excellent video. Your humor may have gone unnoticed by some but it was much appreciated by me. Had me rolling when you read the viewer comments. Oh, and the repair instructions were good too. lol
Why would you glue the plasterboard to the timber with resin when u can just screw it to the timber?
Takes longer and Makes the patch proud too 🤦🏻♂️
@@ModernGentleman well, at least he didn't use soup.
@@zorroonmilkavitch1840 what?
@@bigrichard660 yeah I read that post it was kind of botched up but basically what I was trying to say was by taking a hole saw on a drill and cutting all your patches and cleaning the whole up with a hole saw you just insert the round patch with excess paper as your tape basically it's a butterfly patch but it's round
chris ismail - he also said in the video that you can screw it on. Pay attention everybody.
Nice work as usual Andy, thanks for the Vid. As a Spark having done lots of these holes for installing cables, one tip, if there are cables or pipes close by (having checked) cut the pilot drill down a bit if necessary then start the hole then when the blade has bitten in the board a bit, take the pilot drill out and continue the hole just enough to remove the board so as not to drill thro' pipes or cables. Fix the cut out boardback as you show then leave the rest to the Decorator! LOL.
Hi Andy, I do something similar, I use a hole saw 3mm bigger than the original hole saw. For example a 76mm hole saw will have an external cut of 76mm and an internal cut of 73mm ( blade 1.5mm on both sides) then use a 79mm hole saw to cut another plug out of a piece of plaster board that will measure approximately 76mm which will fit the original hole perfectly ! Keep the good videos coming mate. Col.
Hi Andy, after spending many, many years pulling wire in homes, I’ve found it better to pull the baseboard, cut your mouse hole behind the baseboard then just replace it and repair the caulk. Cutting holes in a customers wall is problematic especially if they are custom colours. 9 times out of 10 the customer doesn’t have any more paint.
Yeah tell me about it "Did you keep any touch up paint?" ...blank looks 🤣. Trouble here is that baseboards are normally so low you hit the baseplate of the stud wall. 👍
Gosforth Handyman I’m in Calgary, Alberta, Canada, normally we have 21/2” baseboard with 1/12” soleplates. That leaves about 3/4” working space.
That’s smart!
@@paulg5163 1/12" is quite a thin soulplate!
Ayyyyeee I thought I was the only one using two pack for plasterboard repairs!
Here’s a few things I’ve picked up after using two pack for 10 years+
The raw edge of cut plasterboard can be incredibly friable. To achieve good adhesion it’s essential, in my opinion, to thoroughly clean or seal the edge.
Defiantly use a wood primer of some description over it. Emulsion can often struggle to adhere, especially when it’s very smooth.
I always find using a screw in where the centre bit hole is pulls the board in tighter and gets it flusher then using filler or adhesive to stick it.
I personally find a couple of bits of batten with low expansion adhesive type foam behind the board really helps tie it all together and further prevent cracking. Failing that I have been known to use silicone.
Foam is great especially when doing larger patches where two pack would be unpractical and joint filler/Ames are used. In this instance I have even tried and tested not using scrim tape to achieve a flatter finish in less time with less filler.
It have only ever cracked (with foam only) when timber behind (joists/trusses) have been soaked from a leak for example and shrink back. In this instance I think even fibre taped joints would have cracked but at least you can then tape and joint over and still achieve a reasonably flat finish.
When it comes to chamfers you don't want to cut corners.
😊 Just don’t do like my neighbor did. After watching this video yesterday He came he came to my house with a 20+ year old router he had never used and asked for a chamfering router bit (he didn’t know what a chamfering bit was but he “just knew I would have one” ) I asked what angle, and what he was using it for. He said he didn’t know what angle and showed me this video. Told him you can’t use a router on drywall use a knife. He didn’t have a knife and insisted he wanted to use the router on the patch and in the kitchen...... He had a hole saw...... So I gave him an old high speed router bit, a scrap of drywall and a work table and a scrap of wood and clamps. Using the piece of wood I clamped it down and showed him to use the router, safety glasses, and dust mask and hah him test the router on the drywall scrap. Needless to say he was covered head to toe in drywall dust. He didn’t realize it and wanted to go “chamfer the edges in the kitchen. I showed him a picture of what he looked like and He wanted to anyway and said he would vacuum it. He had his vacuum out and routed it anyway. He again was covered with drywall dust as was his kitchen and most of the first floor. He said why didn’t you tell me. I told you 3 times I said. I said since you woke me up from a dead sleep earlier and didn’t ask if I would help you, you just started barking orders I would try to help. When you still wouldn’t listen you got Caspered. You still wouldn’t listen so your house got Caspered. I said I’m going home to get 2-3 hours of sleep. I’ll get up and help you patch the wall. He asked if it would be finished in time. I said yes BROTHER it will be finished in time before your birthday party..... Oh yeah..... Happy Birthday!
I guess that will teach him to not wake me up before he is supposed to!!!! .... BROTHERS! 😊😊😊😊😊😊. Yes he is my neighbor....
@@ronh9384 Unbelievable!
@@ronh9384 hilarious
@@ronh9384 Thats funny! Drywall and routers do not mix! its a 24k rpm dust cloud!
Nick Lloyd-Jones - You’re such a smart arris.
It's a good idea, I like it, however, if you show a different wall as a finished project, you could've left the hole in the wall and put a shoe rack in front of it :D
I followed your advice except instead of doing anything you said I applied soup to my child's face and my wall still looks great thanks
These patch fixes are all well and good. The challenge is painting the fixed wall afterward to match the existing color. Some folks are lucky enough to actually have left over paint from a previous wall painting job and some people still have the sticker with the paint mix on it. But many times there is no paint to simply paint over the fix and you have to repaint the entire wall.
To speed up the priming process, you can use a spray stain block like polycell or no nonsense (screwfix), dries very quick. Please please don't give time to troll comments....every video is worth the effort, your audience are not all expecting the same material (If that makes sense) 👍
Will be catching up on your podcasts today, which are fantastic by the way......have a great weekend! 👍
your comment section was hilarious and ty for the tip, some of us jack of all trades dont know this technique and appreciate showing it to us.
I've used bondo for rebuilding rotted wood in doors and other places where you need to build out or replace wood -- but for filling drywall, 20 minute drywall compound is what you really want. Cheaper, and way easier to deal with. As fast or faster than bondo.
you also have 5 minutes compound.
@@nelsoncasari5435 I have some of that -- it's OLD OLD 20 minute compound. It seems to set faster (or at least give you less working time) as it get older.
Just used this method on a hole in my ceiling worked great saved a fortune on replastering ... thanks
Plot twist: This is really a instructional video on how to get plaster and paint in your coffee.
That’s a great repair
I had an issue on drywall
here in Australia we call it GypRock
the toilet roll holder was ripped out and it had to go back to the same spot so i used a holesaw like you did and a product called fast dry liquid nails
and I got some jumbo oversize popsicle sticks the really big ones put some glue on those placed them into the hole in the wall after holes swing it round
pulled them toward me with a piece of string
granted I had the luxury of letting it dry overnight
then drilled a fresh plug with the same holesaw out of a patch panel and liquid nails that in
and then used plaster topcoat to seal it all up and that was stronger than what it was to start with
and I could re-drill holes and rehang the toilet roll holder off it without any dramas
in fact I think it was so strong it would hold a towel rail with wet towels on it no problem......!!
It’s a brilliant repair
I have a section of plasterboard to replace where a ceiling light rose was removed, I’ll be using your tips and advise. I just need to find a small off-cut of donor/plasterboard.
Thanks in advance, and ignore those abusive comments, I liked your laid back style and attention to detail.
I had a manic electrician who left my ceiling and walls looking like swiss cheese. I had five or six holes like this to sort out, and I think my method works well, no two part epoxy resin or filler, and easy sanding at the end. First, get a bit of batten like Gosforth does. Put the screw into the centre, like he does. Get some Gripfill (in a mastic cartridge with a mastic gun. Put the batten into the hole and put a bit of gripfil on each end (only). Make the batten central to the hole, and pull gently to make sure the gripfill is gluing the batten to both ends, behind the hole. After a few moments you can let go, and get a cuppa to leave it set for ten - fifteen mins. Now, the gripfill between the back of the board, and the front of the batten, gives you a little thickness slack for fixing the repair plaster. Do the same thing as Gosforth, and preserve the circular plaster drilled out in the first place. If not possible, use the SAME drill to make new pieces the same size and thickness out of some spare plasterboard. Now, put a bead of gripfill onto the face of the batten. dont overdo the quantity. Have a spare bit of batten, or a ruler or similar handy. Press the plasterboard into the timber and hold it a second, then get the batten, straddle the hole from left to right and press to 'sink' the plasterboard into the right position. Turn the batten vertical and do the same across the top to bottom. Gently place the batten left to right, again, to check, and top to bottom, to check. Leave it set for another cup of tea, ten - fifteen mins. Finish off by using a plaster repair product, Wickes and Screwfix do one, probably get it anywhere. I would suggest using production paper, or sandpaper, to take the rough edges off the filling piece (Gosforth uses a stanley knife for this) and also the rim around the hole, where the drill kicked up the edge as it cut into the wall. That way, when you use the plaster repair stuff, it sets flat as a pancake. If you overfill, leave it set for a couple of hours, then return, and gently sand it. It sands very quickly so be gentle. This may sound a faff for one hole but if you have five or six to do, its good because you can work on them in a production line, so by the time you get number six under way, number one is ready for the next step!
Absolutely brilliant! This is great advice, and delivered with great humour. You've got another subscriber - go forth, Gosforth!
The best way to see if you need to add a final bit of filler in any tiny holes that may remain is to paint over it. Paint has a remarkable ability to highlight any imperfections. Good job.
" Fill it with straw or something" The dripping sarcasm was excellent! LOL Thanks for that. I am sure all the drywallers out there are losing their minds - no tape! Yikes! Also, best troll comments yet! Cheers Andy. (EDIT) You had me laughing, real laughing by the end. That was priceless. Best video I've seen this week, hands down.
You may think that this isn’t such an interesting video but for those of us who are just trying to get good. Ideas on how to maintain our house, this kind of video is excellent
I've mucked around with carfiller since seeing you use it, I got rid of a crack on a ceiling along the join of two pieces of plasterboard by putting a one inch wide layer over it and feathered it out with drywall filler, no sign of it returning and it had been caulked twice before and always came back.
Thanks for that comment. I have some ceiling cracks at one of my houses. I never thought to use Andy's Bondo method to patch them!
I use allot of Bondo at work. One trick I use to save time, apply a pice of wax paper onto your mixing board with spray adhesive and when you're done you can just peel it off and you have a clean mixing board. Cuts down on the dust also.
Great idea to take from the comment section.
why did you use glue to fix the plug to the batten ,why not just use the screw you used to hold the wooden piece in place originally to fix it to the batten and fill no glue needed??
I was expecting that too - nice hole already through the plug too - one less pass with the filler.
That how I’ve always done it and expected him to. Glueing is overkill
Well with one screw in the centre you can sometimes get some wobble in the plug so I kinda get his method there
Must have been the fumes...
@@Jimmy2shoes2shoes 2 screws solves this problem
Great idea, I never thought to use wood filler to bond the patch. Worked very well, dries very quickly and won't crack.
That was smooth move at the end where you point at a wall you didn't fix.
His job was so good even he didn't know where it was.
Ah but you didn't watch till the end did you? Another plot twist!
I've watched a lot of your videos since finding you a few weeks ago, this might be my favourite.
Is there a corresponding video on how to repair dents in a car body with drywall mud?
Yes there is. It was posted right after the "Repairing cement foundations with auto body filler." vid.
I have used this method for over 25 years I have also used 5 minute joint compound with hot water and it sets in 4-6 minutes the hot water speeds up the accelerator in the joint compound.
Good video !
I'd suggest a bit of string around the wood to pull it forward while putting the screws in.
Cheers bud! Yeah string works. 👍
Score the back of the drywall to the size of the hole, flip drywall over and copy and cut pattern 1 inch around patch, from the back snap the drywall off and peel it from the paper. This will leave you a 1 inch flange all the way around your patch, put drywall compound on wall and place patch over hole with cut out pattern going into the hole. Put your knife in the middle of the patch and pull out to the edges to squeeze all of the drywall compound from under the 1 inch edge of paper. I use 20 minute patching compound for the patch. If you’ve done it right when it’s dry it will have sunk into the wall about a 32th of an inch. If you were looking for fast dry then use the 20 minute compound again. Let that dry for about four hours sand and finish. 🙂
Yes, and done in 10 minutes.
I thought I knew all of this, but still watched till the end, because I really like all of your vids. Came to your channel from Ten minutefestool Millard shop. 👍 to that channel as well, I have a festool habit also. Then I learned something new about filler, again, great vid.
Also, enjoyed you openly relaying the trolls comments. Found it funny that people have so little going on that they have the time to go to the effort
Perhaps if you can find time you could as well as tips Tuesday, do toss pot troll Thursday.
I would deffo watch that
👍
Thanks for creating the content, I have learned a lot and enjoy ya channel 👍
I love how you put those obnoxious commenters in their place. The one excrement says something about your mother and you reply: “dad”? Love it!! Great video.
Andy..... this is fantastic... I was in tears... the comment that was before out made me spit coffee out .. DAD???? 😂😂😂😂
This will def be in the aftershow 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I LMAO so hard, that was funny as hell! Best comeback EVER!
Seriously!
Cut a square or rectangular hole and cut a piece of drywall an inch and a half longer and wider, turn over and scribe vertical and horizontal lines, top/bottom/right/left the same size as new hole.....break the back of the sheetrock off of the paper on the front. Put some sealer, bondo, taping mud etc. around the perimeter of the hole and slide the newly prepared piece of sheet rock into place, add more mud on the front with a wide spatula slowly/gently pushing the mud out from under the paper ears you left when preparing the piece to fill the new hole you made earlier. I sometimes soak those “ears” lightly in water which helps the mud flow out as well as adhering the two pieces together. Let the first coat dry and lightly sand if needed then apply a second thin coat, texture and paint. This is especially useful for door knob holes in a rental. Easy peasy!!!
I’ve been doing this for years as I’ve learn in the past when filling holes. It usually takes me max 2 hours because the paint application is quick dry. You don’t really need primer but good job!
That was informative and funny. Thanks for calling out the know-it-all's and nasty trolls. It was also nice of your dad to post that encouraging comment via an alias.
Cheers mate!
Love the added humor.... I've learned something AND I'm still laughing. Nice work!!
Very impressive and thank you for sharing this profession with those who care to care to learn. People! I give this person 4 large stars.
Thanks for that Andy. Absolutely brilliant. Love your sense of humor. More in this style please. Soup FTW 👍
Are those pictures from the Pink Floyd album Meddle? Go straight talking video.
I use a similar process except when I am done I show my customer the wall I repaired not a different random bit of wall. Also, I like to set the plug about 1mm below the surface then use 20 minute dry mix mud to finish the hole. When you place the mud it should be just slightly above the surface of the wall. Let it harden then sand the repair flat with the surrounding wall there should be no ring around the patch like you see at 14:00 in this video. Shine a glancing light on the repair to check for flaws. Before you make the repair take the plug to the paint store and get a can of matching paint. Prime the repair using a roller and check the surface again touch-up as necessary and once it is free of defects, roll on 2 topcoats. Most walls have a slight stipple texture from the roller so let the fresh coat of paint dry a couple minutes after you apply it then roll over it again to set a texture that matches the surrounding area. With a little practice, you can make a perfect repair that is completely invisible.
So you try to match the paint? I prefer some contrast.
@@bakkyboy1 My customers prefer that the repair not be noticable so I match color, sheen and texture.
All you have to do is grip fill an old piece of plaster board to the inside using a screw in the middle to hold it
Then come back and fill it in
No screws to fill over
Good job good video. Not how I would have done it ( painter/ taper 35 years) but the you did what you set out to do. A one day repair. Well done.
Love the video and brilliant comments thanks for taking the time to show us how
Hi, it's not boring, mate. It's very useful for normal people. So thank you for the information. Cheers
I enjoyed your video, but I think using a bit of drywall mud would be a better solution, less steps, easier to use. Pretty much the same result with a touch more waiting for it to set. But I do like the backing idea with the wood, that's a smart move. Thanks for the video and advice.
in the states we have 2 products called paint and patch, you can glue your plug in or just use a sheet rock screw in the center hole just don't screw it all the way past the sheetrock.
Its just to temporarily hold the plug in place until the bondo wood filler or whatever drys.
Patch and paint is water based plastic filler, if its drys out in the tub you can add water to make it smooth. Lumps will make you day a pain in the ass. so make sure its clean no lumps.
Whatever you do do not use durham's water putty you need a grinder to sand the stuff its more like cement then filler. It says sandable on the carton but seriously with what? A jack hammer?
Years ago I made that mistake once then did it a second time.
We also have a filler that goes on pink and turns white when dry this is fast setting if its a thin coat. It's great for nail holes.
I did not make a comment on your job because your right it is a Skill, one that takes a lot of practice, I'd suggest practice inside a closet or where its not going to be seen then try an area in plain sight after you get the hang of doing it. Or your going to be sanding a lot.
Skip the sanding and use your putty knife to knock down the high spots then do a second coat.
get your knife wet damp then try a skim coat.
This was aimed at people who's never done it, not this author.
As for his tips, I learned somthing I never thought about using bondo or a 2 part filler.
I may have to try this once.
Love the comments you got. there's easier ways to do this, but a good job.
I'm a carpenter of 34 yrs. I thought it was great. Especially time wise.
If I were to use soup, what kind should I use? I'd imagine a noodle soup would leave lumps. Maybe a consommé or bouillon? I'd never use my child's face. He has acne which would keep the finish from smoothing out properly.
My child is nearly 30 years old and bigger and stronger than me. I think I'd lose the struggle to use his face on that...
A creamy bisque would be best I think
Very handy video. Top tip for anyone who doesn’t own multiple or decent scrapers is to use an old credit or store loyalty card to flush the surface. I buy packs of blanks from eBay for a couple of quid and they make handy little filler knives and scrapers for jobs like this or for caulking (cracking little ice scrapers for windscreen too if you keep one in your wallet 😀). Cheers for the vid 👍🏻
I don't know about soup but my mom's custard can fill just about anything.
😂😂😂😂
I gave your mom some of my custard the other day.
@@Dime_Bar You are a nasty liar! TAKE IT BACK, LIAR! You most certainly did NOT give his mother your custard the other day, you dishonest bucket of arse gravy,
....cause I did!
This is almost the perfect way to do it. So much better than California patch repair and taping bollox I see on UA-cam. Only thing I do differently now is spray stain block over the filler. It drys faster than primer and also adds a semi thick but smooth effect to the filler thus, when painted drys with the same effect as the surrounding painted area.
Can that bondo stuff be sanded nicely? Or is it still best to go over with the 2 part or something like gyproc?
There are non toxic options of fast setting fillers, I’ve used 20 and even 5 minute versions of drywall compound, or “rock hard water putty”... they all are powders you mix with water. Pro tip: the colder the water the slower it sets.
Sorry no Rock hard putty for me that shit you can't sand with a jack hammer.
Funny my dad told me to use it once but he did plaster, and stucco back in the 50's I'll stick to premixed of patch and paint either version.
The trick with them is you do all your patching then skim with easy sand and a fan or heat gun to help set
Bobbg I agree completely. You should never tell an amateur to use the quick drying mud because a mistake is practically unfixable. I do use it on a regular basis but to tell someone else to use it is asking for a disaster. The putty he showed in the video does not have this problem.
Durabond isn't rock hard it's quite easy to sand
Couple of points.
If you cut an irregular shape, you tend to get a better fit. The piece can only go back in the way it came out.
Don't saw. Sharp knife and cut. Less gap, less to fill, easier to do. Also far easier to trim the raggedy edges because there is less of them. That said, you need to be handy with a knife.
The screw in the middle of the timber used to hold the timber. If you use a 50mm screw, the screw head can be well away from the work face. So you can hold it with a claw hammer.
If you screw your cutout piece to the timber, rather than stick it. You'll get a flatter finish because you're not battling the depth of the glue behind the board. Go slow screwing it because you're working with compromised plasterboard.
Really enjoying the channel. Thanks mate
Your questions & answers toward the end are hilarious! "Uh, Dad?" :-)
That is how I go about repairing holes myself. Perfect finish achieved quickly. Another tip would be that using two part car body filler can work out cheaper. Great vid.
I use a blank electrical panel. Who knows if someone needs the hole later.
Yup - sometimes a great idea if it's not somewhere too conspicuous. 👍
That’s lazy and unprofessional. Your work should look like you’ve never been there.
@@WhatIsKenDoing People call me all the time to fix the "work" of clowns like these fools.
Why didn’t you just screw the round bit to the wood instead of using car body filler?
Excellent and informative. Enjoy the comments where people don't get UK humour and those who don't read the title of the video and suggest using plaster.
When working with drywall, using products designed for that purpose tends to work best.
I thought you offered good sound advice, which will save viewers a lot of time and money for those wishing to undertake such a job. Additionally, I found your video well put together with a level of entertainment thrown in so 10/10 for your efforts.
Much easier and less expensive ways to patch sheet rock . And without using something toxic enough to fuse plastic. All in one day as well.
I have done lots of hole patch jobs and with less effort using joint compound. Cut the hole regular shape .... square or rectangle. Cut another piece of drywall larger than the wall hole. I usually go about 1/2" larger. Then on the BACK side of your patch score the patch to the wall hole size. Snap the drywall on the back and peel the gypsum off leaving the front paper intact. Put joint compound in the hole and around the outside of the hole. Put joint compound on the back edges of the patch. Put the patch into the hole so the patch is flush or slightly indented. Smooth the 1/2" paper edges into the compound on the wall. Finish over your patch with compound, sand and paint.
I like it when you chamfer the edge at 5:30 because I do it too. I prefer to use 1/2 inch plywood behind versus regular wood, less likely to split. I hold the plywood with a string. In west coast USA, I prefer "Hot mud", a white powder that you mix with water. It can harden in 5/10/20/45 or 90 minutes, sticks much better than premix and stronger. I use 20 to 90 minute ones, depending on how big of an area I am working. When it says 20 minutes, it begins to harden at 10 and very hard to work with at 15 minutes. I have never try anything less than 20 minutes, I do not work that fast. Paper tape or plastic netting over the join. Easy to sand when the surface is dry, which can be 24 hours, or speed it up with a heat gun. I can get by with 3 putty knifes, 2.5, 6 and 12 inches.
Is that cream in your coffee or drywall dust?
I liked that drywall repair. Nice and neat.
Only thing I have to add is stir your mud first. If I'm doing a small patch like that I only stir the top couple inches. I stir it and fold it until it is like is the consistency of sour cream. Ma,especially a difference in texture and eliminates the bubbles.
Makes a difference. Spellchecker corruption again
When you put the filler on the wood didn't that make it so the plug was bound to stick forward more, why not use a drywall screw in the middle? The only issue with that filler is people complain about the smell, save lots of time though.
Depends on the repair but just push it in as far as it needs to go to get the front face flush. You can push it in all the way flush or use a screw. 👍
When I do this, I sometimes use a piece of a paint-stirring stick (the thicker sticks, for 5 gallon paint buckets will take a drywall screw without splitting). But if I don't have a stick, I make a triangle of corrugated cardboard and glue it in place, holding everything with a rubber band around the cardboard and then through the hole of the drywall plug (left by the drill bit for the hole saw). The downside is you have to wait for the glue to dry, for the next step, but that only takes a couple of hours. Since I use spackle or water putty, which don't stink, to fill the gap, my way has at least a 'wait for the spackle to set' period, before painting.
I prefer my primer stirred not shaken.
Having that coffee mug right under where you are painting reminds my of Carly Simons Song: You so vane "Paint in my Coffee, Paint in my Coffee"
The wood batten that goes in first…use superglue (CA) or five minute epoxy to fix it in, instead of those drywall screws and you’ll have less to fill. It doesn’t need much strength to hold that plug. Safe core drilling: remove the centre pilot drill bit, put tape on the outside of the hole saw to mark a depth of millimetre less than the drywall thickness (if unsure go for 12 mm first). Without the pilot you’ll have to be slow are careful getting the saw started (an oversize circular ring shape can be used to guide it). Afterward, you should be able to run a blade lightly around the groove to release the plug without really penetrating into the cavity👍
Love the full -on tech talk Andy,"fill it with straw "had me wetting myself!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
It should be noted that the curing time for 2 part fillers of this type can be adjusted by using more or less hardener it will still cure however much is used ...even underwater
very informative video's no silliness or attempts at comedy...keep it up Andy... and thanks.
This is a longer, more complicated and more expensive way to fix a hole than quick-set drywall compound.
Why europe will never matter.
Just use the 20 minute easy sand it is a lot easier. Instead of glue just use the sheetrock screw.
Cut the hole Square, Cut a Piece of Rock an 1/4" longer on all for sides, Cut the rock off the 1/4" Leaving the front. Put rock in Square hole, Spackle, Sand, done.
Chris Gray just get stoned, mate?
Yep, a california patch and 20 min mud would have made this much easier. But the video would only be about 2 minutes long lol