The market needs more of this 48v batteries. In Europe are still pretty rare and expensise, there are just a couple of brands, if you want something more cheap you must order from AliExpress, but it takes forever to come and we have to pay import taxes also.
I noticed that you had about 0.37 volts difference between the lowest cell (2.55 volts) and the highest cell (2.92 volts) right after the BMS disconnected the load. This indicates that the cells are either not capacity matched or not properly balanced. So, do you have some way of manually telling the BMS to perform either a top or bottom balance on the pack? I know this may seem a little petty, but over time if that cell 8 is continually being pushed to its lower limit of 2.5 volts, while the other cells in the pack are always comfortably above that lower limit, that cell is going to degrade faster, which will translate to a faster degradation of overall capacity, since the capacity will be limited by the relative weakness of cell 8. But, thanks for the video! These seem to be very cool batteries, regardless of your application!
Dave, I am absolutely a fan. I watch many battery evaluations and you left out one of the most important features of any battery to be used in harsh environments. LiFeO4 batteries should never be charged when at or below 32F. You never mentioned this or tested for it. Personally I would never buy a LiFeO4 battery unless it had this low temp protection. Maybe you can add this evaluation with an additional video. Thanks
I bought a cheap used golf cart with dead batteries and dropped that bad boy in. put a solar panel on the roof with trickle charger and boy does that thing rip! never have to plug it in.
I know at full charge you want to see the cells be very close in voltage to consider them balanced, but how close should they be at the end of the discharge test? Cell 8was at 2.5v, while cell 12 was at 2.9 - Should they be balanced at that point? Will the BMS do that automatically over repeated cycles, or is that a special operation? Also, if they were more balanced at the end of the discharge, how much more Watt-hours could you get? Great show!
The LFP voltage/discharge curve is extremely flat from 90% to 10% state of charge, only dropping from 52V to 50V for this specific model. from 5% to 0% you drop from 49V to 45V, this is extremely steep, with 2.9V being equivalent to 2% SoC only - so you'd probably only get up to 0.1kW.h extra if all the cells performed identically.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 That answers my second question and, assuming it would allow an extra 5 minutes or so for all cells to get down to 2.5v, I think you're right. My first question is more important, though, I think... if it's a big deal to be .1v out of balance fully charged, wouldn't it also be a big (or bigger?) deal to be out of balance by 4 times that, at full discharge?
@@optiskeptic4746 End of discharge isn't a particularly easy place to have cells balanced, as even a 1-3Ah capacity difference between individual cells would come to play here and make the apparent voltage difference really big - guaranteeing cell performance at both the top and bottom portions results in making the cells way more expensive. The other side of this coin is that nobody should actually discharge these cells down to 0% often enough for bottom balance-able design to matter anyway. LFP cells get damaged in short order by staying at extremely low SoCs, but playing in the 100%-20% range gives you 5000+ cycles (14 years..) while still maintaining a usable 80% of original capacity.
Man, this video had me convinced to buy one of these, but of course, just a few short months later, they are no longer available. Makes me think that anything I'd buy from such a company wouldn't be supported or around for replacement and repair later. I'd really have to think twice before buying from such a company.
Ten years ago the Technomadia channel did an LFP installation. I think their BMS destroyed the setup, but it was fine for a while. They (then) went with BB, which was like chapter two, the high margin RV product. China is no fun anymore, with their buddy Vlad, but China kind of owns LFP. I want someone to get the stuff over here with some level of QC. This price is great when I look at 1.2 kwh 12v stuff on Amazon. The per cell read out on the BT app solves a lot of troubleshooting issues. The weight is good. The size is good. Everything is in place to run 1500 solar watts + on the RV roof, to one or two of these, a decent inverter, and a split heat pump. That's a pretty spectacular off grid RV, or Tiny House on a lot. People should go 48v, just to size the inverter. Having 4 12v means 4 bms units, kind of redundant. If you want to put stuff together the cells that Battery Hookup sells, assembled for 12v, is a heck of a deal.
Great to see you test this one David. Great results & love your enthusiasm. We upgraded our system to 16 of the EG4 48v and have been running them for two weeks now to power our off grid villa. My test results are right in line with yours, pulled full capacity out of our bank running loads ranging from 1Kw to 7.5Kw. Real life test using our 8kw outback radian and monitoring thru the mate3s console. Test was as follows: full charge to batteries, shut off all pv inputs, disconnect grid tie, ran all loads on property for 42 hours including 4 loads laundry in elec dryer and hot water heater running 2 hours, batteries shut down with 80.5 KWh delivered to loads, 4KWh preshunt losses to a very large resistor (which I have since removed from system) And approx 6Kwh losses to resistance in cabling/and inverter-systems losses. All in all I figure 90KWh with 80.5 available to loads. Not bad at all. Weve been waiting four years for this 48v format and price point so we were super excited to finally find them. Props to signature solar for delivering a much needed specific battery design. We wanted waterproof as we are in hurricane central in the U.S.V.I. After hurricane Irma, weatherproofing & waterproof are of utmost importance to us and the 48v format eliminates so many series connections& cables. Also super portable and redundant as I can pull any battery out of system to use elsewhere at any time. BMS works fantastic, cells always within 30/1000ths v during heavy charge or discharge and always settle to within 2-5/1000ths v when resting or under normal 1-2 KWh loads. Very impressed so far ! The size is great too. Was able to fit 16 of these in the same space we had our 16 battleborns (they stick out only 6" further so I didnt have to make any changes to my battery box. Now storing 80+kwh in essentially the same space we used to store 20 kwh. Been watching you for years now. Great work, keep em coming. Sending sunshine your way.
I assume you have looked at your individual cell voltages? I have 8 of the 48v and one of the 12v. Tested 4 so far. The cell voltages aren't even close on the upper end. I can't get above 55 volts without at least one cell hitting its protect limit which is crazy high. Same on every battery tested so far. I have not discharged them yet.
@@sunlightconversions828 What happens with batteries is that when you approach the top and bottom end of the battery charge the internal resistance is not linear, it spikes very high. When that happens it's difficult to balance the cells in a battery. My thinking here is that your top charge value is too high - initially. What I found is that after a couple of discharge cycles the top end evens out. What you might want to try and do is shut off your charge under 54.8 or 55 volts for the first couple of discharges. My batteries did the same thing the first time I set up the charge cycle with my Outback Flex80 which is a very good charge controller. After the first couple of discharges down to maybe 40 or 50% I changed the charge controller parameters to around 56 or 56.2 volts with no problems. Also make sure your charge controller is shutting off at the right voltage and not over stepping its limits. My batteries are down now but I think when they're fully charged they show around my 56 volt level with all the cells within 50 millivolts of each other on all three of my batteries. I think you'll also find that your batteries, after a couple of charges, have higher capacity.
@@mosfet500 I charge pretty conservatively, bulk to 56.5 volts with a 6 minute absorption time, then fall back to a float voltage of 54.4 (lower than battery specs) as we sell power from our Radian inverter. The sell voltage is set to 52.8 volts (per outback recommendations of one volt +- below float voltage. End result for us is at end of long day selling power, these settings leave me with 70%-80% capacity for overnight use. I then go off grid overnight and usually end up between 40%-60% when the sun comes up to recharge. The waterproof EG4s are OK up to 58 volts, which we charged to full capacity before initial use. Hope that helps, sorry if late in responding, just noticed your question today (4-6-22)
@@mosfet500 curious, are you going to try to set up comms between the EG4LL and the mate 3 ? Not sure if they are compatible or not but would be cool if so.
Do you still have any of those EG4 WP Batteries? I bought 4 refurbished ones in April of 2024 just to need about 2 more to have my mom's house installation complete. Signature never just told me yesterday they quit making them and they sold out...I would pay fully
Great video - I recently purchased an EG4 36v 100ah Waterproof from SIG Solar but the BMS needs to be revived. I have the app on my Apple phone but its not communicating with the battery. Please walk us through a BMS wake up on this battery. Thanks!
David, doesn't that one cell that is always lower in charge signal a potential problem down the road? It would appear to me that it's a bad cell. Good video, as always. I have missed seeing your videos. Hope all is well with your family.
Is it always lower or just at the end of discharge? The voltage nosedives as the battery is completely drained so normal slight manufacturing differences would likely explain the difference.
Thats not right mate .In LFP a 100Ah battery is supposed to deliver 100Amps for an hour or One amp for 100 hours . High discharge drops the actual dramatically so they standardise the test and about 2 amps discharge is used on 100Ah batteries . Don't know where you get your info from but its wrong . They can base amphours on any rate of discharge they please and it has NOTHING to do with nominal voltage.
@@aprilsteel9466 Josi is correct. Rate of discharge is not in question here. By your reasoning a 100Ah battery will have the same KW output no matter what voltage the battery is.
Hello Dave, no one does things the way you do them. You're quite unique. That's awesome. Dave, the only protection I need for my batteries bank is a disconnect? Thx
If you are connecting more than 2 batteries together in parallel then you should have over current protection for each battery. This could be a fuse or circuit breaker. Then, from the battery bank to the loads (inverter and charge controller) there should be another overcurrent device and a means of disconnect. Usually a large circuit breaker.
Signature solar sent an email out about their charger. It’s actually an 18 amp charger, not a 25 amp. They made a mistake. They are offering a refund or some money back.
That's interesting, I saw the charger output change and thought they couldn't get the 25 amp anymore. I think it's out of stock, I have one coming from my last battery order.
@Richard from Signature Solar Thanks Richard. I have one backordered from my last battery order, do you have any lead time when you expect them back in?
I have been doing some research and. Don't think I want the hum of the low frequency in the trailer with me. Now I could put in the truck or out side the trailer. The trailer has a major redesign going on 1970 airstream I am swapping the rear bathroom with the center bedroom. And adding a wrap around windows in the back with vented skylight. Composting toilet I have upgraded the fridge to a 3way and pump. I have figured out a way to triple pain and gas fill the windows. With gas struts. I am a union carpenter and engineer and just finshed my A& P classes (airplane mechanic) and in the midst of faa testing. So the build is in my wheel house. I am working with a suspension engineer to make a height adjustable system for my trailer. I just got done upgrading the plumbing and first boondocking trip ripped the new plumbing and rear bumper off the trailer. So low on street and hight off road I also reinforce the under carriage. This is a 5 year design project. And kind of doing it in a different order. All my cabinetry is removable so when I get to foam insulation installed then are sealed should stiffen the trailer with minimal weight and way better insulation I am putting a barrier on the inside to break the thermal transfer as airstream are ovens and transfer cold readily. So imam at the electrical interior part so I will need dimensions soon looking at 5he battery you just reviewed and I would like to get 4 for a 400amp system.
Great load/capacity test. Wondering if you are going to test these low temp protection. I think this tests is particularly pertinent for any use where the batteries use where batteries are exposed to outside environment. A test of the the over-temp protection would be nice also for the same reason.
batteries, in general, should never be exposed directly to an outdoor environment. They especially need heaters in climates where they still may be below freezing by the time the sun comes up.
lithium batteries do not provide the amps needed to start a car. That battery is likely rated 100A discharge 125-150 peak for under 6 seconds. lead acid get pulled 300-800A depending on the engine size
I no longer have them, but they are helping out a friend. They could not be stressed, because if you did push them voltages drifted. Good in a stationary UPS system (whole-house backup), but not great for daily cycling.
I have a 2016 travel trailer, if i get lithium batteriea like this, would i need to upgrade the converter that charges the battery when hooked up to shore power?
Great video as usual, I really like your video's for myself, because I'm technically challenged. These batteries would be great in a ev application but not an rv. Most rv's run 12v or 24v. But like I said great video as per usual with all the information explained in layman terms!
What is your opinion on 480VDC 100Ah batteries and 480V inverters? I saw growatt makes a 76kw 3 phase 480v inverter AIO unit and thought can't get more industrial than that!
Would love to see a slow pull. just say what is the time it will last at around 300w or about 10/13 amps or 150w 5/6 amps with possible bump to 300w with deep freezer? Like the one you made for the delivery guys.
I have been boon docking (still am), for the past three months in a RV with two of these batteries. 90% of the time boondocking, I have seen 20 degrees in Maine along with 109 degrees in Death Valley so far. No issues with 2 of the 48v in parallel so far. Not the year you are looking for but a start. App on the phone is about the worst on the market - only negative I see.
@@aprilsteel9466 I could care less about a bar chart. I just wish it was accurate, connected regularly and did not have to hack it on an Android phone. The opening scan is comical. I was; a couple of times in a dense RV park. There must of been 200 odd Bluetooth devices I had to scroll through to find my two batteries. Stupid at best they cannot trim it down to just their devices.
Your focus is generally stationary energy, but you do speak to boats and RVs in this video. Are these batteries, especially the 12V, appropriate to use for engine starting? I'm sure the amp draw is quite high if only for a second or so.
The BMS protect triggers at 150A for 5 seconds, or more than 250A in about 0.1 milliseconds. Most car starter batteries have a CCA rating of 500-700A, which they need to sustain for about 30 seconds to pass the CCA rating test. LFP cells optimized for storage cannot safely provide the current needed to start a car, unfortunately. More expensive Lithium chemistries can, but they also explode easily and don't do well with heat.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 Thanks so much. I guess I was more thinking smaller engines like in some boats. But, from your comment, sounds like even for boat applications, we should be thinking storage only.
David,would you know if these batteries can be paralleled or put in series ,and how many can be done so,as many only allow max of 4 ,will there be a master bms if so
Have you ever used schneider xw pro or the sw version inverters ? Also doesnt seem like the coupon DavidPoz20 is working at signature solar unless i messed it up somehow .
He said it weighs about 80lbs shortly after he removed it from the box. It would take 4 lead acid batteries, plus’s cabling and connections, to produce the 48 volts of this unit. So that could easily be between 200-300 lbs to be an ‘equivalent’ lead acid battery . There really is no ‘equivalent’ though. It’s an apples to oranges comparison. Like comparing the carrying capacity of a mini to a minivan.
That's funny. You are right that the website says 67 pounds. Someone updated the website wrong. The spec sheet still shows 85 pounds and I can tell from moving it around it's heavier than 67 pounds.
It seems like Signature Solar has used you up like a Q-Tip and decided to get Will Prowse to do their promotions. While your reviewing this Chump change battery they just sent Will Prowse two of there new inverters and six of their 48V rack mount batteries, that has got to be like $14,000 worth of free stuff. Man that is sad how they just ditched you like that.
If one were to use a few of these batteries for emergency backup, what is the maximum period of storage before discharging and recharging is recommended?
With lifepo4 it's best to long-term store then not at 100%, instead go for 50-70%. They have very low self discharge compared to lead acid, once a year will be fine, probably even once every two years will be okay
@@w3bb0y So if I want to have a few 5kWh batteries around for emergency storage, I should charge them only to 70%? My other option is to charge to 100% and make sure I cycle them at least twice or thrice a year. What is considered long-term storage: three months, six months?
The user manual (available at www.signaturesolar.com/collections/eg4-water-proof) gives you the self-discharge curves at various storage temperatures on the last page. Best case scenario, the pack starts at 100% and ends up at 70% after 24 months if kept at 25'C or 77'F. It is normally good practice to charge the battery back to 100% before use, but it's not pertinently stated in the manual or warranty documentation, so I believe they're not worried about it. There's also no clause that states you should store them at al lower SoC either - this isn't a good idea anyway as you then risk them going below the minimum setpoint and then causing permanent damage.
I just found this...cool. Hey, if you are answering comments, if I wan to connect these batteries to say an Eg4 all in one inverter, do I need a cutoff switch between the batteries and the EG4 inverter?
Electrical code, and good practice, says you need both a means of disconnect and over-current protection between the battery and inverter. The easiest way to do this is a circuit breaker. Here is an example: signaturesolar.com/nader-dc-circuit-breaker-60v-200amp-with-enclosure/?ref=4_rHcgZ9x-TiF- However, some EG4 inverters have circuit breakers built in. If the built-in circuit breaker meets your system requirements, then you don't have to add another one.
@@DavidPozEnergy Thanks! I am a complete newbie to all of this. I am looking at a 48v system for my RV. These batteries (EG4 WP) look to be perfect for that application. I know if I get the EG4 server batteries they have on/off switches and circuit breakers built-in but the water proof batteries look more suitable for my application. SO...if I run 2 of these EG4 WP batteries in parallel, can I place a single circuit break between the battery bank and the EG4 inverter? Oh, I am looking that either the EG4 all in one inverter or the Growatt.
I agree that these WP batteries are a better choice for RV's. Here is an affiliate link to them, just in case you want to help support the channel: signaturesolar.com/eg4-wp-lithium-battery-48v-100ah?ref=4_rHcgZ9x-TiF- I'm not sure which EG4 inverter, but if you are looking at this one: signaturesolar.com/eg4-6000xp-off-grid-inverter-split-phase/?ref=4_rHcgZ9x-TiF- Then it has a circuit breaker built in. I like using busbars as a central connection point for all my equipment and batteries. Check out this pair: signaturesolar.com/12-stud-busbar/?ref=4_rHcgZ9x-TiF- This is two busbars. You would mount them on the wall near your inverter, or somewhere like that in a spot they won't get banged up. Run a separate wire for each battery to the busbar, and a separate wire to your inverter. I use busbars in several videos, but to highlight what I mean, check out this one: ua-cam.com/video/eWqJjlHoW9A/v-deo.htmlsi=D77qVxKBzxBWUxHW
Hello from SacramentoCA. 1972 22' Airstream . I am looking to install a mini split 9000btu. 115v or 220v. The 115v would be easier but not as seer efficient. I have a 3way fridge, but liking the ice chest and ice maker option. We boondock(no hook-up). I think I want 48v system with server rack battery . I would like to charge while traveling and ok with a 2nd alternator. I have 18'x 8' of unobstructed roof. So about 9 panels possible looking at regen curved panels not wanting to add 400lbs on roof but can get 6yr commercial panels for $.18 per watt. Want to know victron versus growwatt. On a side note no sense having it idle at home so plug in to house. Any ideas/ advice.? Just don't know worth going 240v just for the better seer mini split system if I turn everything on full I get a spike of 2700w but drops to under 1800w but more like 800 to 1200w per hour in camping season. I figured with cured top I will pull in 7hours at 1350w per hour. Them maybe add 2000w additional. I can and do plan on put a fold out on my truck camper roof for a later upgrades. If with the sailboat and trailer load sharing with the house I would like to go off grid but want a hybrid so if we sell the house it can be grid tied again. I like the Growatt so far but victron is my second choice. Any ideas would greatly appreciate.
Yes, this battery Has recently had its BMS updated to 200Amp and literature bolds golf cart use (plus I spoke with tech support today and they confirmed). Unfortunately it you trip the BMS it requires a charger to wake it…inconvenient if you’re on the back 9…or across town.
Going to install a 12k growatt inverter on my new build. It will be completely off grid . Want to figure out how to charge my batteries with a generator using a AGS when the batteries get low on cloudy days. Is there a way to connect a AGS to work with the Growatt inverter?
Two of those batteries would be total 10.24 kwh. And, you're typically going to get an average of about five hours of sunlight. So, if you always had full sun - which you won't - you would need about 2.5 kw of solar panels. But, since you will not always get full sun, if you are going to need to go from dead to full every day, you're going to need even more solar power. My recommendation would be to, at least, double your required amount of solar power to about 5 kw to improve the chances of getting a full charge even on partly cloudy days. But, the best way to determine how much solar power you're going to need to maintain two of these batteries would be to average out your actual power usage over the course of a week or two and then ensure you have, at least, double your usage requirements of daily solar power. You should also have some kind of backup charging solution, like a propane/gas/diesel generator to power a charger that can recharge the batteries from dead to full in about five hours. The generator should also be able to supply power to your required loads while recharging the batteries with a little head room so that you're not pushing the generator to its limits. Hope this helps.
Their new WP 48V battery has a 200Amp BMS and is rated for stock golf carts… Anyone have a valid coupon code? Ones mentions previously in these comments don’t work.
Hi David, Been watching your videos for a while now. Im wondering if I connect 2x48v batteries to run a 96v EV (charge at 96v as well) and in an event of Grid Outage connect same batteries in parallel to power a home solar inverter at 48v. Any thoughts on what might get damaged since each battery has its own internal BMS? Thank you..
If someone could enlighten me on the topic of 2s 48v=96v for EV & 2p 48v=48v for home power, it would help me decide on how to better go about with my EV conversion project.. Thank you all
Nothing will get damaged in series. The only thing that I would worry about is the current draw. These batteries are designed for relatively low current draws, I wouldn't really try to use them in an EV. In the specs sheet they state that it's a 100A BMS. Depending on the EV, even some golf carts have controllers that can push upwards of 500A, especially if its an electric car, 100A at 96v is only 9.6kW you can use, so something like 12 horsepower ish. You'll have to go for the big lifepo4 cells or high C Li-Ion packs and assemble them yourself if you want a proper EV battery pack, with relay control BMS rather than these which use MOSFETs to turn on/off. If you source them right you could build 2 48v 200ah lifepo4 packs for the price 2 of these 100ah ones (probably $300 more if you count 2 16S Chargerys and 2 EV200 relays).
@@00000005547 wow.. This just the direction I needed.. I've been having a double mind in how to go about this..DIY or Buy. You have pointed me to the right direction. Thank you very much. Godbless you more..
I wonder if the capacity will continue to increase as the BMS continues to balance the cells over time. I noticed at the bottom when the one cell got to 2.5v, there were many others that were closer to 2.7V, so there was power left in them. Wonder if the balance will improve over time and thus the total capacity will increase? Really great looking battery!!
The LFP voltage/discharge curve is extremely flat from 90% to 10% state of charge, only dropping from 52V to 50V for this specific model. from 5% to 0% you drop from 49V to 45V, this is extremely steep, with 2.7V being equivalent to 1% SoC only - so you'd probably only get up to 0.05kW.h extra if all the cells performed identically.
The BMS doesn't balance . One cell will always be the lowest at full discharge , this is behaving normally . This is the main reason to use only 80% . Leave the top 10 and the bottom 10 percent to extend the life of the battery.
Hey Dave, I have 4 - 12 volt batteries in my 2007 club cart 48 volt . After charging, I run full thottle and my volt gauge shows 34 volts and when I let off the thottle , the voltage goes up to 47 - 48 volts. Is it time to replace the batteries. And I'm thinking about going with Lithium battery what do you suggest thanks Al
Maybe, but you could check a few more things first. I'd check for loose connections and/or corrosion on the connections. Too thin of wire in between the batteries? test the electrolyte with a hydrometer. I'd try equalizing each 12V battery (balances the cells and removes sulfur). But, if your batteries are 6 years old then even with all those steps you probably still need to change them out.
@@DavidPozEnergy I have 4 power pulse units on each battery, do those actually work. It came on the cart when I bought it 2 Years ago the batteries are between 5 and 6 years old now.
I've never tried those myself, so I don't know. Sorry. I suppose they can't hurt. Sorry i can't help you more. I usually go through the batteries systematically to check those things. Or, maybe take all the batteries out and test them individually. But 6 years is usually the limit for golf cart batteries.
@@DavidPozEnergy do you recommend the Lithium battery then 48 volts. And does that come with a 12 volt separate cable or do I use my 48 to 12 volt reducer that I have on my golf cart now. Ok can you give me a price on a 48 volt 100 ah, and the 25 amp charger. Thanks Al
As long as you don't need more than 102A for more than 10 seconds, or 150A for 5 seconds, these type of lead-acid replacement batteries work fantastic. These parameters are programmed into the BMS and can be read in the user manual
I converted my cub cadet lawn tractor to the rack storage version of this 1 year ago. Just check to make sure the amps your motor is drawing fit with the parameters of this battery.
It will work fine as long as its existing lead acid batteries are all in series and the only wires leaving the battery bank are the master positive and negative. If there are taps at other points in the battery it won't work.
If you charge to 58 . whatever you will quickly stuff your cells You should stop at 3.5v per cell or 56 volts . Going higher is stupid and damages the SEI layer in the cell . The energy needed to go from 3.5v to 3.65v is negligible so don't go there is the obvious answer. I would like to see you rip the top off those batteries so we can see what cells are in there . They may well be foil packs which are hopeless in the long run.
You can see the cells on signature solar video. They are prismatic and so far have been performing great for me. The battery specs do state a recommended charge voltage of 56.5v. The Bms does do its work when charging to 58 tho I use 56.5 in daily use. 16 batteries w max 180 Amp charge.
I got 36v EG4 for my Yamaha golf cart and the thing keeps shutting off and going into protect mode. If you go up a hill with more than half pedal depressed it shuts down and needs a charger to get it out of protect mode. Any thoughts of what i can do? I expected more for my $1200 . Am i expected to put 2 in series to make this work?
I experienced the same issue with this in my friends golf cart. We ended up switching to a different one: ua-cam.com/video/JnA4R1xuChU/v-deo.htmlsi=2UQQR0hUbmZwmlU7
Yamaha G8 G9 G14 G16 Electric Golf Cart 36/48 Volt controller are rated to pull up to 500 Amps. Going over grass, up hill, over rough terrain you will easily pull over 150 amps. Just driving a golf cart on level ground taking it easy pulls up to 60 amps.
@@lunatik9696 So you're saying with this large battery connected to the Delta Pro, have a solar-fed 48V charger simultaneously connected to the battery and charge while the Delta Pro draws from it?
A friend of mine picked up one of these batteries and we're having some trouble getting it working. The app says "Status: Stand by" and the terminals are showing only .7V. Is this normal? Does it "wake up" when a load is connected or should it be showing the full voltage (53.88V) at the terminals? Is there a way to configure the BMS settings and turn it on/off?
@@DavidPozEnergy they're giving Me a couple dollar off a 48v battery cause they mistaken send me a 48v eg4 while I did order 24v growatt. I only have 24v worth 280 amh cells. But i definitely can't reach the full price of a 48v battery. Check my Chanel you see the system I'm talking about.
The Lifepower4 server rack is $1499 and the water proof 48V is $1649 for the same capacity and the same warranty - David stated that these have the same cells inside, so unless you need the water proof properties, the server racks remain a better investment.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 I'm wondering why this is more expensive than the server rack... like they've saved a lot of material cost in building this battery compared to the server rack which uses a lot of metal. It also doesn't even have an LCD display.
@@iamwisdomsky it's probably more expensive because of the Bluetooth BMS and water proof functionality - signature solar will draw a lot different customers which will put these waterproof boxes in all kinds of difficult environments, so they probably even expect a higher number of warranty claims (and accompanying goodwill swops, even if the claim is dubious) And sheet metal is less expensive than tough plastic at the scale they're operating on - even assembly is probably less expensive for the rack units.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 isn't the BMS bluetooth module dirt cheap? I don't think that should affect the price that much especially that they've removed some features (the lcd and circuit breaker). But I do agree that it could have something to do with the waterproofing and maybe some R&D?
Yep definitely within margin of error. Plus remember you pushed it with a 3hr discharge rate, not the 5hr rate. I bet you'd get over 100Ah if you ran a 1kw load.
How many hour lifepo4 battery can run at 5kw and what is the capacity of battery needs of deye hybrid inverter of 5kws at 48 volts dc input output of 230volts ac 60hrtz
There aren't any 96V inverters available in the mass market, so I doubt it would be useful to put them in series - the BMS isn't rated for that voltage either, but probably only because it didn't make sense to test it. Parallel is possible with other LFP type cells in 16S configurations, you just have to monitor each pack's SoC manually, as they don't have communication facilities like that.
You can parallel up to 16 of them (as stated in battery stats from signature solar). We are doing that now and they are performing perfectly- all 16 balanced to same voltage & s.o.c. All 256 individual cells balanced to within 3/1000ths of a volt once charge cycle is finished.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 I m looking at them for an Electric outboard, I’m looking at 2 different motors one 48v and one 96v . These seem like one of the best bang for your money
Hey Dave. Love your videos, I have learned quite a lot from you. I was actually thinking of buying a battery very similar to this one, but in a 36v 100ah configuration. That said, do you think one of these would be adequate for a golf cart? Thanks!
Good video and yes I would say your meter is very accurate. Also I did send you an email about some solar modules that you might be interested in doing some testing on. Not sure if you had seen that.
Just got mine yesterday. Putting it in my solar pontoon.
This channel is very informative and really good for technical. The presenter explained well 😊
The market needs more of this 48v batteries. In Europe are still pretty rare and expensise, there are just a couple of brands, if you want something more cheap you must order from AliExpress, but it takes forever to come and we have to pay import taxes also.
I noticed that you had about 0.37 volts difference between the lowest cell (2.55 volts) and the highest cell (2.92 volts) right after the BMS disconnected the load. This indicates that the cells are either not capacity matched or not properly balanced. So, do you have some way of manually telling the BMS to perform either a top or bottom balance on the pack?
I know this may seem a little petty, but over time if that cell 8 is continually being pushed to its lower limit of 2.5 volts, while the other cells in the pack are always comfortably above that lower limit, that cell is going to degrade faster, which will translate to a faster degradation of overall capacity, since the capacity will be limited by the relative weakness of cell 8.
But, thanks for the video! These seem to be very cool batteries, regardless of your application!
I love the fact your shop is a working mans "wreck". I understand the madness. You arent all for show, you truly love what you do. Keep up the videos.
Keep in mind the bms is probably measuring it's power usage where as the meter system can only measure the external power usage.
Nice review. Nothing about the 12v? Maybe the next video. Is there anyway to service that cell8 and change it out? Thanks for sharing
Dave, I am absolutely a fan. I watch many battery evaluations and you left out one of the most important features of any battery to be used in harsh environments. LiFeO4 batteries should never be charged when at or below 32F. You never mentioned this or tested for it. Personally I would never buy a LiFeO4 battery unless it had this low temp protection. Maybe you can add this evaluation with an additional video. Thanks
@Richard from Signature Solar Low temp cutoff but not low temp heating. Pass
Watched the rest of the video and sure enough...100ah in the second test. What an impressive package.
I bought a cheap used golf cart with dead batteries and dropped that bad boy in. put a solar panel on the roof with trickle charger and boy does that thing rip! never have to plug it in.
nice
@INBOX ME ①⑨②⓪⑥⑥③⑧⓪①① Scammer
Seriously very cool. I subscribed but I have been watching a long time. You really helped me I owe you
I know at full charge you want to see the cells be very close in voltage to consider them balanced, but how close should they be at the end of the discharge test? Cell 8was at 2.5v, while cell 12 was at 2.9 -
Should they be balanced at that point?
Will the BMS do that automatically over repeated cycles, or is that a special operation?
Also, if they were more balanced at the end of the discharge, how much more Watt-hours could you get?
Great show!
Good question
The LFP voltage/discharge curve is extremely flat from 90% to 10% state of charge, only dropping from 52V to 50V for this specific model. from 5% to 0% you drop from 49V to 45V, this is extremely steep, with 2.9V being equivalent to 2% SoC only - so you'd probably only get up to 0.1kW.h extra if all the cells performed identically.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 That answers my second question and, assuming it would allow an extra 5 minutes or so for all cells to get down to 2.5v, I think you're right.
My first question is more important, though, I think... if it's a big deal to be .1v out of balance fully charged, wouldn't it also be a big (or bigger?) deal to be out of balance by 4 times that, at full discharge?
@@optiskeptic4746 End of discharge isn't a particularly easy place to have cells balanced, as even a 1-3Ah capacity difference between individual cells would come to play here and make the apparent voltage difference really big - guaranteeing cell performance at both the top and bottom portions results in making the cells way more expensive.
The other side of this coin is that nobody should actually discharge these cells down to 0% often enough for bottom balance-able design to matter anyway. LFP cells get damaged in short order by staying at extremely low SoCs, but playing in the 100%-20% range gives you 5000+ cycles (14 years..) while still maintaining a usable 80% of original capacity.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 Good to know, thanks!
Man, this video had me convinced to buy one of these, but of course, just a few short months later, they are no longer available. Makes me think that anything I'd buy from such a company wouldn't be supported or around for replacement and repair later. I'd really have to think twice before buying from such a company.
Ten years ago the Technomadia channel did an LFP installation. I think their BMS destroyed the setup, but it was fine for a while. They (then) went with BB, which was like chapter two, the high margin RV product. China is no fun anymore, with their buddy Vlad, but China kind of owns LFP. I want someone to get the stuff over here with some level of QC. This price is great when I look at 1.2 kwh 12v stuff on Amazon. The per cell read out on the BT app solves a lot of troubleshooting issues. The weight is good. The size is good. Everything is in place to run 1500 solar watts + on the RV roof, to one or two of these, a decent inverter, and a split heat pump. That's a pretty spectacular off grid RV, or Tiny House on a lot. People should go 48v, just to size the inverter. Having 4 12v means 4 bms units, kind of redundant. If you want to put stuff together the cells that Battery Hookup sells, assembled for 12v, is a heck of a deal.
Great to see you test this one David. Great results & love your enthusiasm. We upgraded our system to 16 of the EG4 48v and have been running them for two weeks now to power our off grid villa. My test results are right in line with yours, pulled full capacity out of our bank running loads ranging from 1Kw to 7.5Kw.
Real life test using our 8kw outback radian and monitoring thru the mate3s console.
Test was as follows: full charge to batteries, shut off all pv inputs, disconnect grid tie, ran all loads on property for 42 hours including 4 loads laundry in elec dryer and hot water heater running 2 hours, batteries shut down with 80.5 KWh delivered to loads, 4KWh preshunt losses to a very large resistor (which I have since removed from system)
And approx 6Kwh losses to resistance in cabling/and inverter-systems losses.
All in all I figure 90KWh with 80.5 available to loads.
Not bad at all.
Weve been waiting four years for this 48v format and price point so we were super excited to finally find them. Props to signature solar for delivering a much needed specific battery design.
We wanted waterproof as we are in hurricane central in the U.S.V.I.
After hurricane Irma, weatherproofing & waterproof are of utmost importance to us and the 48v format eliminates so many series connections& cables.
Also super portable and redundant as I can pull any battery out of system to use elsewhere at any time.
BMS works fantastic, cells always within 30/1000ths v during heavy charge or discharge and always settle to within 2-5/1000ths v when resting or under normal 1-2 KWh loads.
Very impressed so far !
The size is great too. Was able to fit 16 of these in the same space we had our 16 battleborns (they stick out only 6" further so I didnt have to make any changes to my battery box. Now storing 80+kwh in essentially the same space we used to store 20 kwh.
Been watching you for years now.
Great work, keep em coming.
Sending sunshine your way.
Jeff,
I just upgraded my GVFX3648's to VFXR3648's with the mate3s to 3 EG4LL( 48v, 100a). What are you setting your parameters to?
I assume you have looked at your individual cell voltages? I have 8 of the 48v and one of the 12v. Tested 4 so far. The cell voltages aren't even close on the upper end. I can't get above 55 volts without at least one cell hitting its protect limit which is crazy high. Same on every battery tested so far. I have not discharged them yet.
@@sunlightconversions828 What happens with batteries is that when you approach the top and bottom end of the battery charge the internal resistance is not linear, it spikes very high. When that happens it's difficult to balance the cells in a battery. My thinking here is that your top charge value is too high - initially. What I found is that after a couple of discharge cycles the top end evens out.
What you might want to try and do is shut off your charge under 54.8 or 55 volts for the first couple of discharges. My batteries did the same thing the first time I set up the charge cycle with my Outback Flex80 which is a very good charge controller. After the first couple of discharges down to maybe 40 or 50% I changed the charge controller parameters to around 56 or 56.2 volts with no problems.
Also make sure your charge controller is shutting off at the right voltage and not over stepping its limits. My batteries are down now but I think when they're fully charged they show around my 56 volt level with all the cells within 50 millivolts of each other on all three of my batteries.
I think you'll also find that your batteries, after a couple of charges, have higher capacity.
@@mosfet500 I charge pretty conservatively, bulk to 56.5 volts with a 6 minute absorption time, then fall back to a float voltage of 54.4 (lower than battery specs) as we sell power from our Radian inverter. The sell voltage is set to 52.8 volts (per outback recommendations of one volt +- below float voltage. End result for us is at end of long day selling power, these settings leave me with 70%-80% capacity for overnight use. I then go off grid overnight and usually end up between 40%-60% when the sun comes up to recharge.
The waterproof EG4s are OK up to 58 volts, which we charged to full capacity before initial use. Hope that helps, sorry if late in responding, just noticed your question today (4-6-22)
@@mosfet500 curious, are you going to try to set up comms between the EG4LL and the mate 3 ?
Not sure if they are compatible or not but would be cool if so.
Do you still have any of those EG4 WP Batteries? I bought 4 refurbished ones in April of 2024 just to need about 2 more to have my mom's house installation complete. Signature never just told me yesterday they quit making them and they sold out...I would pay fully
the 48 volt EG4-4800 is no longer shown on the Signature Solar web site.
No search ( for me) found that battery
Impressionnant !
Awesome video. I really want some nice batteries for the RV!
Great video - I recently purchased an EG4 36v 100ah Waterproof from SIG Solar but the BMS needs to be revived. I have the app on my Apple phone but its not communicating with the battery. Please walk us through a BMS wake up on this battery. Thanks!
David, doesn't that one cell that is always lower in charge signal a potential problem down the road? It would appear to me that it's a bad cell. Good video, as always. I have missed seeing your videos. Hope all is well with your family.
I was thinking that too - cell 8 in particular was at a considerably lower voltage than the rest of the pack.
Is it always lower or just at the end of discharge? The voltage nosedives as the battery is completely drained so normal slight manufacturing differences would likely explain the difference.
heya nice that those batteries come through the test but that was to be exspected from that eg4 batterie company
Or of there is another unit on the market that can parallel with this particular battery?
Ah rating is based on nominal Voltage. Metered Ah is sum of the actual values that varies inversely to the battery Voltage.
Hence watts. Not sure why he us so obsessed with the Ah.
Thats not right mate .In LFP a 100Ah battery is supposed to deliver 100Amps for an hour or One amp for 100 hours . High discharge drops the actual dramatically so they standardise the test and about 2 amps discharge is used on 100Ah batteries . Don't know where you get your info from but its wrong . They can base amphours on any rate of discharge they please and it has NOTHING to do with nominal voltage.
@@aprilsteel9466 Sorry I can't help you. You will have to catch up with the basics first.
A 200W load will draw 200W no matter what Voltage it is supplied with.
@@aprilsteel9466 Josi is correct. Rate of discharge is not in question here. By your reasoning a 100Ah battery will have the same KW output no matter what voltage the battery is.
Hello Dave, no one does things the way you do them. You're quite unique. That's awesome. Dave, the only protection I need for my batteries bank is a disconnect? Thx
If you are connecting more than 2 batteries together in parallel then you should have over current protection for each battery. This could be a fuse or circuit breaker. Then, from the battery bank to the loads (inverter and charge controller) there should be another overcurrent device and a means of disconnect. Usually a large circuit breaker.
@@DavidPozEnergy thx a lot Dave
@@DavidPozEnergy i always use both combinations in series, then in parallel
Signature solar sent an email out about their charger. It’s actually an 18 amp charger, not a 25 amp. They made a mistake. They are offering a refund or some money back.
That's interesting, I saw the charger output change and thought they couldn't get the 25 amp anymore. I think it's out of stock, I have one coming from my last battery order.
@Richard from Signature Solar Thanks Richard. I have one backordered from my last battery order, do you have any lead time when you expect them back in?
Great video! The 12v 100a video dropping soon?
That was impressive and certainly within the margin of error of the meter. I bet your next test will show 100ah.
I have been doing some research and. Don't think I want the hum of the low frequency in the trailer with me. Now I could put in the truck or out side the trailer. The trailer has a major redesign going on 1970 airstream I am swapping the rear bathroom with the center bedroom. And adding a wrap around windows in the back with vented skylight. Composting toilet I have upgraded the fridge to a 3way and pump. I have figured out a way to triple pain and gas fill the windows. With gas struts. I am a union carpenter and engineer and just finshed my A& P classes (airplane mechanic) and in the midst of faa testing. So the build is in my wheel house. I am working with a suspension engineer to make a height adjustable system for my trailer. I just got done upgrading the plumbing and first boondocking trip ripped the new plumbing and rear bumper off the trailer. So low on street and hight off road I also reinforce the under carriage. This is a 5 year design project. And kind of doing it in a different order. All my cabinetry is removable so when I get to foam insulation installed then are sealed should stiffen the trailer with minimal weight and way better insulation I am putting a barrier on the inside to break the thermal transfer as airstream are ovens and transfer cold readily. So imam at the electrical interior part so I will need dimensions soon looking at 5he battery you just reviewed and I would like to get 4 for a 400amp system.
Great load/capacity test. Wondering if you are going to test these low temp protection. I think this tests is particularly pertinent for any use where the batteries use where batteries are exposed to outside environment. A test of the the over-temp protection would be nice also for the same reason.
batteries, in general, should never be exposed directly to an outdoor environment. They especially need heaters in climates where they still may be below freezing by the time the sun comes up.
I'd love to see the 12v start a car in the cold if it is possible. Then a waterproof test would be great :)
lithium batteries do not provide the amps needed to start a car. That battery is likely rated 100A discharge 125-150 peak for under 6 seconds. lead acid get pulled 300-800A depending on the engine size
@@joe7272 150 amps is probably enough for a small engine. Probably not for a giant engine at -20C.
David, I been meaning to ask you why you don’t mention the BYD battery system any more, how are they working?
I no longer have them, but they are helping out a friend. They could not be stressed, because if you did push them voltages drifted. Good in a stationary UPS system (whole-house backup), but not great for daily cycling.
Hey Dave, they revamped their website and the links are no longer working. Do you have a code we can use?
True passion displayed in your videos
What about cold temp shutoff? Very important for RV operation.
built in heater as an option would be good
I have a 2016 travel trailer, if i get lithium batteriea like this, would i need to upgrade the converter that charges the battery when hooked up to shore power?
Great video as usual, I really like your video's for myself, because I'm technically challenged. These batteries would be great in a ev application but not an rv. Most rv's run 12v or 24v. But like I said great video as per usual with all the information explained in layman terms!
Have you decommissioned the BYD pack yet? What's going on with it since you started with the Gyll battery bank?
What is your opinion on 480VDC 100Ah batteries and 480V inverters? I saw growatt makes a 76kw 3 phase 480v inverter AIO unit and thought can't get more industrial than that!
I wish you would do a video on solar panels for your house which are the best worst Etc
Would love to see a slow pull. just say what is the time it will last at around 300w or about 10/13 amps or 150w 5/6 amps with possible bump to 300w with deep freezer? Like the one you made for the delivery guys.
The peukert exponent for LFP cells is quite low, so you could probably get an extra 2-3% out of the battery at a low rate of discharge only.
I would like to see a load test on these after a year. And how well hold up in a rv when the temp is below zero and above 100
I have been boon docking (still am), for the past three months in a RV with two of these batteries. 90% of the time boondocking, I have seen 20 degrees in Maine along with 109 degrees in Death Valley so far. No issues with 2 of the 48v in parallel so far. Not the year you are looking for but a start. App on the phone is about the worst on the market - only negative I see.
@@MrThisIsMeToo Agree re the app you need a bar chart at the very least. Somebody has probably already put one out .
@@aprilsteel9466 I could care less about a bar chart. I just wish it was accurate, connected regularly and did not have to hack it on an Android phone. The opening scan is comical. I was; a couple of times in a dense RV park. There must of been 200 odd Bluetooth devices I had to scroll through to find my two batteries. Stupid at best they cannot trim it down to just their devices.
@@MrThisIsMeToo do you charge them via solar? And if so, how much total w you have in panels? Thanks
@@thiago_thesaint I have 680w ground base Solar. I do adjust them about 50% of the time throughout the day.
Hi Do you retail any of the Products you Build or Products you use in your test Bob V
I use 3000kwh a month i have 20 230 w solar panels what type of batteries should I use
Your focus is generally stationary energy, but you do speak to boats and RVs in this video. Are these batteries, especially the 12V, appropriate to use for engine starting? I'm sure the amp draw is quite high if only for a second or so.
The BMS protect triggers at 150A for 5 seconds, or more than 250A in about 0.1 milliseconds. Most car starter batteries have a CCA rating of 500-700A, which they need to sustain for about 30 seconds to pass the CCA rating test.
LFP cells optimized for storage cannot safely provide the current needed to start a car, unfortunately. More expensive Lithium chemistries can, but they also explode easily and don't do well with heat.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 Thanks so much. I guess I was more thinking smaller engines like in some boats. But, from your comment, sounds like even for boat applications, we should be thinking storage only.
How much is the 48v battery, please?
NICE BIT OF KIT DAVE
Tone UK
Thanks for info...😊
Pls help....
4 x 48v 30ah lifepo4 battery parallel ...... posible ? For long use
David,would you know if these batteries can be paralleled or put in series ,and how many can be done so,as many only allow max of 4 ,will there be a master bms if so
Hello sir, Can that battery be used in a RYOBI 48V 100Ah Zero Turn Electric Riding Mower to replace the sealed lead acid batteries it comes with?
I love this channel I wish I understood it all
What if you make a ebike with the 48V one?
Have you ever used schneider xw pro or the sw version inverters ? Also doesnt seem like the coupon DavidPoz20 is working at signature solar unless i messed it up somehow .
Run a hose over the 48v while it's providing power
I almost forgat about this channel😃
Why is that 100ah battery bank so much bigger than a equivalent lead acid?
What does it weigh?
It is 4 times the voltage of the average lead acid battery.
He said it weighs about 80lbs shortly after he removed it from the box. It would take 4 lead acid batteries, plus’s cabling and connections, to produce the 48 volts of this unit. So that could easily be between 200-300 lbs to be an ‘equivalent’ lead acid battery . There really is no ‘equivalent’ though. It’s an apples to oranges comparison. Like comparing the carrying capacity of a mini to a minivan.
What exactly is this app called? My wp battery won't come out of protect mode
Hay David, just noticed that the website states battery weight is 67 pounds, is this a different version that's heavier?
That's funny. You are right that the website says 67 pounds. Someone updated the website wrong. The spec sheet still shows 85 pounds and I can tell from moving it around it's heavier than 67 pounds.
It seems like Signature Solar has used you up like a Q-Tip and decided to get Will Prowse to do their promotions. While your reviewing this Chump change battery they just sent Will Prowse two of there new inverters and six of their 48V rack mount batteries, that has got to be like $14,000 worth of free stuff. Man that is sad how they just ditched you like that.
Gave you a thumbs up. But I was here for the 12.8v battery and you ignored it
If one were to use a few of these batteries for emergency backup, what is the maximum period of storage before discharging and recharging is recommended?
With lifepo4 it's best to long-term store then not at 100%, instead go for 50-70%. They have very low self discharge compared to lead acid, once a year will be fine, probably even once every two years will be okay
@@w3bb0y So if I want to have a few 5kWh batteries around for emergency storage, I should charge them only to 70%? My other option is to charge to 100% and make sure I cycle them at least twice or thrice a year. What is considered long-term storage: three months, six months?
The user manual (available at www.signaturesolar.com/collections/eg4-water-proof) gives you the self-discharge curves at various storage temperatures on the last page. Best case scenario, the pack starts at 100% and ends up at 70% after 24 months if kept at 25'C or 77'F.
It is normally good practice to charge the battery back to 100% before use, but it's not pertinently stated in the manual or warranty documentation, so I believe they're not worried about it. There's also no clause that states you should store them at al lower SoC either - this isn't a good idea anyway as you then risk them going below the minimum setpoint and then causing permanent damage.
I just found this...cool. Hey, if you are answering comments, if I wan to connect these batteries to say an Eg4 all in one inverter, do I need a cutoff switch between the batteries and the EG4 inverter?
Electrical code, and good practice, says you need both a means of disconnect and over-current protection between the battery and inverter. The easiest way to do this is a circuit breaker. Here is an example: signaturesolar.com/nader-dc-circuit-breaker-60v-200amp-with-enclosure/?ref=4_rHcgZ9x-TiF-
However, some EG4 inverters have circuit breakers built in. If the built-in circuit breaker meets your system requirements, then you don't have to add another one.
@@DavidPozEnergy Thanks! I am a complete newbie to all of this. I am looking at a 48v system for my RV. These batteries (EG4 WP) look to be perfect for that application. I know if I get the EG4 server batteries they have on/off switches and circuit breakers built-in but the water proof batteries look more suitable for my application. SO...if I run 2 of these EG4 WP batteries in parallel, can I place a single circuit break between the battery bank and the EG4 inverter? Oh, I am looking that either the EG4 all in one inverter or the Growatt.
I agree that these WP batteries are a better choice for RV's. Here is an affiliate link to them, just in case you want to help support the channel: signaturesolar.com/eg4-wp-lithium-battery-48v-100ah?ref=4_rHcgZ9x-TiF-
I'm not sure which EG4 inverter, but if you are looking at this one: signaturesolar.com/eg4-6000xp-off-grid-inverter-split-phase/?ref=4_rHcgZ9x-TiF-
Then it has a circuit breaker built in.
I like using busbars as a central connection point for all my equipment and batteries. Check out this pair: signaturesolar.com/12-stud-busbar/?ref=4_rHcgZ9x-TiF- This is two busbars. You would mount them on the wall near your inverter, or somewhere like that in a spot they won't get banged up. Run a separate wire for each battery to the busbar, and a separate wire to your inverter.
I use busbars in several videos, but to highlight what I mean, check out this one: ua-cam.com/video/eWqJjlHoW9A/v-deo.htmlsi=D77qVxKBzxBWUxHW
Open them up!
Hello from SacramentoCA. 1972 22' Airstream . I am looking to install a mini split 9000btu. 115v or 220v. The 115v would be easier but not as seer efficient. I have a 3way fridge, but liking the ice chest and ice maker option. We boondock(no hook-up). I think I want 48v system with server rack battery . I would like to charge while traveling and ok with a 2nd alternator. I have 18'x 8' of unobstructed roof. So about 9 panels possible looking at regen curved panels not wanting to add 400lbs on roof but can get 6yr commercial panels for $.18 per watt. Want to know victron versus growwatt. On a side note no sense having it idle at home so plug in to house. Any ideas/ advice.? Just don't know worth going 240v just for the better seer mini split system if I turn everything on full I get a spike of 2700w but drops to under 1800w but more like 800 to 1200w per hour in camping season. I figured with cured top I will pull in 7hours at 1350w per hour. Them maybe add 2000w additional. I can and do plan on put a fold out on my truck camper roof for a later upgrades. If with the sailboat and trailer load sharing with the house I would like to go off grid but want a hybrid so if we sell the house it can be grid tied again. I like the Growatt so far but victron is my second choice. Any ideas would greatly appreciate.
@INBOX ME ①⑨②⓪⑥⑥③⑧⓪①① so how is things in Manitowoc wi?
David I have been getting these on a couple of solar tech channels.
That 99.9 is fine. Of course I'd rather see it over 100 but it's what it says it is.
can you use this on a golf cart 48volt cart
Yes, this battery
Has recently had its BMS updated to 200Amp and literature bolds golf cart use (plus I spoke with tech support today and they confirmed). Unfortunately it you trip the BMS it requires a charger to wake it…inconvenient if you’re on the back 9…or across town.
Going to install a 12k growatt inverter on my new build. It will be completely off grid . Want to figure out how to charge my batteries with a generator using a AGS when the batteries get low on cloudy days. Is there a way to connect a AGS to work with the Growatt inverter?
Weird. Everything is 420V in Denver.
I’ll be using a generac generator 22 kw
What are doing with the enphase micro inverter on the wall ?
Also how many watts of solar panels would i ideally want in total to be able to charge two 48v 100ah daily?
Two of those batteries would be total 10.24 kwh. And, you're typically going to get an average of about five hours of sunlight. So, if you always had full sun - which you won't - you would need about 2.5 kw of solar panels. But, since you will not always get full sun, if you are going to need to go from dead to full every day, you're going to need even more solar power. My recommendation would be to, at least, double your required amount of solar power to about 5 kw to improve the chances of getting a full charge even on partly cloudy days.
But, the best way to determine how much solar power you're going to need to maintain two of these batteries would be to average out your actual power usage over the course of a week or two and then ensure you have, at least, double your usage requirements of daily solar power.
You should also have some kind of backup charging solution, like a propane/gas/diesel generator to power a charger that can recharge the batteries from dead to full in about five hours. The generator should also be able to supply power to your required loads while recharging the batteries with a little head room so that you're not pushing the generator to its limits.
Hope this helps.
Their new WP 48V battery has a 200Amp BMS and is rated for stock golf carts…
Anyone have a valid coupon code? Ones mentions previously in these comments don’t work.
Hi David,
Been watching your videos for a while now.
Im wondering if I connect 2x48v batteries to run a 96v EV (charge at 96v as well) and in an event of Grid Outage connect same batteries in parallel to power a home solar inverter at 48v.
Any thoughts on what might get damaged since each battery has its own internal BMS?
Thank you..
If someone could enlighten me on the topic of 2s 48v=96v for EV & 2p 48v=48v for home power, it would help me decide on how to better go about with my EV conversion project..
Thank you all
@@joeabad5908 Will Prowse has a UA-cam channel and a forum that should be able to assist. Google him.
Hi @@diyEVguy I already reached out to Will, but, he might not have the time to reply yet..
I will try again..
Thank you for your reply.. Stay safe
Nothing will get damaged in series. The only thing that I would worry about is the current draw. These batteries are designed for relatively low current draws, I wouldn't really try to use them in an EV. In the specs sheet they state that it's a 100A BMS. Depending on the EV, even some golf carts have controllers that can push upwards of 500A, especially if its an electric car, 100A at 96v is only 9.6kW you can use, so something like 12 horsepower ish.
You'll have to go for the big lifepo4 cells or high C Li-Ion packs and assemble them yourself if you want a proper EV battery pack, with relay control BMS rather than these which use MOSFETs to turn on/off. If you source them right you could build 2 48v 200ah lifepo4 packs for the price 2 of these 100ah ones (probably $300 more if you count 2 16S Chargerys and 2 EV200 relays).
@@00000005547 wow.. This just the direction I needed..
I've been having a double mind in how to go about this..DIY or Buy.
You have pointed me to the right direction. Thank you very much.
Godbless you more..
I wonder if the capacity will continue to increase as the BMS continues to balance the cells over time. I noticed at the bottom when the one cell got to 2.5v, there were many others that were closer to 2.7V, so there was power left in them. Wonder if the balance will improve over time and thus the total capacity will increase?
Really great looking battery!!
The LFP voltage/discharge curve is extremely flat from 90% to 10% state of charge, only dropping from 52V to 50V for this specific model. from 5% to 0% you drop from 49V to 45V, this is extremely steep, with 2.7V being equivalent to 1% SoC only - so you'd probably only get up to 0.05kW.h extra if all the cells performed identically.
Is there evidence of a test for if it's actually (salt) water proof?
Is there a way to better balance cell 8, or do you just have to wait for the BMS to better balance it over time?
The BMS doesn't balance . One cell will always be the lowest at full discharge , this is behaving normally . This is the main reason to use only 80% . Leave the top 10 and the bottom 10 percent to extend the life of the battery.
Waterproof IP68 rated? Test it again after dunking it for 30 minutes.
@davidpoz it's been 10months how is this 48v battery holding up?
I gave it to a friend for his golf cart. He says it's working great. ua-cam.com/video/FpheSJsPiOk/v-deo.html
Hey Dave, I have 4 - 12 volt batteries in my 2007 club cart 48 volt . After charging, I run full thottle and my volt gauge shows 34 volts and when I let off the thottle , the voltage goes up to 47 - 48 volts. Is it time to replace the batteries. And I'm thinking about going with Lithium battery what do you suggest thanks Al
Maybe, but you could check a few more things first. I'd check for loose connections and/or corrosion on the connections. Too thin of wire in between the batteries? test the electrolyte with a hydrometer. I'd try equalizing each 12V battery (balances the cells and removes sulfur). But, if your batteries are 6 years old then even with all those steps you probably still need to change them out.
@@DavidPozEnergy I have 4 power pulse units on each battery, do those actually work. It came on the cart when I bought it 2 Years ago the batteries are between 5 and 6 years old now.
1 on each battery,
I've never tried those myself, so I don't know. Sorry. I suppose they can't hurt. Sorry i can't help you more. I usually go through the batteries systematically to check those things. Or, maybe take all the batteries out and test them individually. But 6 years is usually the limit for golf cart batteries.
@@DavidPozEnergy do you recommend the Lithium battery then 48 volts. And does that come with a 12 volt separate cable or do I use my 48 to 12 volt reducer that I have on my golf cart now. Ok can you give me a price on a 48 volt 100 ah, and the 25 amp charger. Thanks Al
I have a 48V golf cart with 6 x 8 V batteries, can i convert to this 48 V battery? thanks for any replies
As long as you don't need more than 102A for more than 10 seconds, or 150A for 5 seconds, these type of lead-acid replacement batteries work fantastic. These parameters are programmed into the BMS and can be read in the user manual
I converted my cub cadet lawn tractor to the rack storage version of this 1 year ago. Just check to make sure the amps your motor is drawing fit with the parameters of this battery.
It will work fine as long as its existing lead acid batteries are all in series and the only wires leaving the battery bank are the master positive and negative. If there are taps at other points in the battery it won't work.
If you charge to 58 . whatever you will quickly stuff your cells You should stop at 3.5v per cell or 56 volts . Going higher is stupid and damages the SEI layer in the cell . The energy needed to go from 3.5v to 3.65v is negligible so don't go there is the obvious answer.
I would like to see you rip the top off those batteries so we can see what cells are in there . They may well be foil packs which are hopeless in the long run.
You can see the cells on signature solar video. They are prismatic and so far have been performing great for me. The battery specs do state a recommended charge voltage of 56.5v. The Bms does do its work when charging to 58 tho I use 56.5 in daily use.
16 batteries w max 180 Amp charge.
I got 36v EG4 for my Yamaha golf cart and the thing keeps shutting off and going into protect mode. If you go up a hill with more than half pedal depressed it shuts down and needs a charger to get it out of protect mode. Any thoughts of what i can do? I expected more for my $1200 . Am i expected to put 2 in series to make this work?
I experienced the same issue with this in my friends golf cart. We ended up switching to a different one: ua-cam.com/video/JnA4R1xuChU/v-deo.htmlsi=2UQQR0hUbmZwmlU7
Yamaha G8 G9 G14 G16 Electric Golf Cart 36/48 Volt controller are rated to pull up to 500 Amps. Going over grass, up hill, over rough terrain you will easily pull over 150 amps. Just driving a golf cart on level ground taking it easy pulls up to 60 amps.
@@michaelnaglesaltlife too bad the geniuses at EG4 and signature solar do not know this. They don't know their amp from their elbow.
Is there a way to connect either this battery or a server rack battery to a Delta Pro so that it can also charge through the Delta Pro?
Get a 48V charger and plug it in.
@@lunatik9696 So you're saying with this large battery connected to the Delta Pro, have a solar-fed 48V charger simultaneously connected to the battery and charge while the Delta Pro draws from it?
A friend of mine picked up one of these batteries and we're having some trouble getting it working. The app says "Status: Stand by" and the terminals are showing only .7V. Is this normal? Does it "wake up" when a load is connected or should it be showing the full voltage (53.88V) at the terminals? Is there a way to configure the BMS settings and turn it on/off?
Mine came "on", but sometimes a BMS goes into standby mode when there is low voltage. Try applying a charge and it should wake up
That discount code doesn't seems to be working now.
Yes, sorry. Signature Solar stopped the discount code. Try code "youtube". I think that gets you discounted shipping
@@DavidPozEnergy they're giving Me a couple dollar off a 48v battery cause they mistaken send me a 48v eg4 while I did order 24v growatt. I only have 24v worth 280 amh cells. But i definitely can't reach the full price of a 48v battery. Check my Chanel you see the system I'm talking about.
Wouldn’t a 5kw battery box be a better investment for home use?
The Lifepower4 server rack is $1499 and the water proof 48V is $1649 for the same capacity and the same warranty - David stated that these have the same cells inside, so unless you need the water proof properties, the server racks remain a better investment.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 I'm wondering why this is more expensive than the server rack... like they've saved a lot of material cost in building this battery compared to the server rack which uses a lot of metal. It also doesn't even have an LCD display.
@@iamwisdomsky it's probably more expensive because of the Bluetooth BMS and water proof functionality - signature solar will draw a lot different customers which will put these waterproof boxes in all kinds of difficult environments, so they probably even expect a higher number of warranty claims (and accompanying goodwill swops, even if the claim is dubious)
And sheet metal is less expensive than tough plastic at the scale they're operating on - even assembly is probably less expensive for the rack units.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 isn't the BMS bluetooth module dirt cheap? I don't think that should affect the price that much especially that they've removed some features (the lcd and circuit breaker).
But I do agree that it could have something to do with the waterproofing and maybe some R&D?
Yep definitely within margin of error. Plus remember you pushed it with a 3hr discharge rate, not the 5hr rate. I bet you'd get over 100Ah if you ran a 1kw load.
What C rate was the manufacturer AH test at?
In my opinion when the bms says 0 percent it should have shut off the unit but it did not
No it shouldn't. it's the cell low protection that controls that. Who knows what they have it set to.
Are any of your EG4 discount codes at SS still working?
No, sorry.
How many hour lifepo4 battery can run at 5kw and what is the capacity of battery needs of deye hybrid inverter of 5kws at 48 volts dc input output of 230volts ac 60hrtz
Well the battery in this video is a 5kwh battery so it will run a 5kw load for 1 hour. The rest is just basic math.
the capacity is clearly stated in the video as 5.12kWh. So if you plan to draw 5kw continuously, it means it will last for an hour.
Drop back and punt.
Will the 48v battery run a golf cart?
Yes, if it's a stock controller and motor. But, if you have an upgraded motor/controller you might need more amps, so maybe 2 batteries in parallel.
Good batteries, but if you are unlucky enough to get a bad battery. They do not honor their warranty.
Woohoo!
hello DavidPoz, how can I get your business contact?
$1645 a battery...did you get it for free??? Like a lot of your stuff...
$325 per kwh...
@DavidPoz are you also 'inbox me' with your same face pic?!?
Can you series or parallel the 48 V packs?
There aren't any 96V inverters available in the mass market, so I doubt it would be useful to put them in series - the BMS isn't rated for that voltage either, but probably only because it didn't make sense to test it.
Parallel is possible with other LFP type cells in 16S configurations, you just have to monitor each pack's SoC manually, as they don't have communication facilities like that.
You can parallel up to 16 of them (as stated in battery stats from signature solar). We are doing that now and they are performing perfectly- all 16 balanced to same voltage & s.o.c.
All 256 individual cells balanced to within 3/1000ths of a volt once charge cycle is finished.
@@stefanvanzyl9090 I m looking at them for an Electric outboard, I’m looking at 2 different motors one 48v and one 96v . These seem like one of the best bang for your money
Hey Dave. Love your videos, I have learned quite a lot from you. I was actually thinking of buying a battery very similar to this one, but in a 36v 100ah configuration. That said, do you think one of these would be adequate for a golf cart? Thanks!
I just sent back one that was defective.
Now, if only these could sell for 1200 shipped…
Thanks, David. That was enlightening. Keep up the great work! I love your videos.
Good video and yes I would say your meter is very accurate. Also I did send you an email about some solar modules that you might be interested in doing some testing on. Not sure if you had seen that.