Thanks for this video. We have moved from a 618 TJ (fixed head with Hyd cylinder side to side tilt) to a 953K, the new one has a head like yours so this video has given me new possible that I have not thought of before. Thanks again
I've ran feller buncher in the Catskills of NYS periodically since 1995 when my boss at the time had a FB cutting head mounted on a 311 cat. It was the first FB I know of in the area, everything we learned was trial n error. Nobody taught us anything cuz nobody knew anything about them around here I've ran many different makes models since and I'll say I wish I had seen this before I started. Great video.
Thank you very much for your comment. I can understand how complicated it must have been to start with no instructions. I had many words of guidance when I started and yet it was still very complicated at times. Comments like yours fuel and motivate future video's.
Very well done video. I appreciate your dialog, clear and to the point. Always interesting to see different wood and the techniques to go with it. Running a Buncher well looks simple but is surprisingly complex. Thanks for putting this together. Be safe!
Just purchased a new to me timberjack 618 feller buncher! This is extremely motivational. Great work! Can't wait to get some seat time in my new machine
This instruction is great for that kind of ground/wood/location/method/style. It doesn't all apply to mixed stand thinning in larger wood. But great video!
Thank you! Keep at it. We mostly all start from the bottom. Applying yourself to any industry will eventually open you doors to discover. Even if its a job you don't want to do for the time being. Be patient and your time will come.
@@pilotlife5190 Where I work we use SAE (standard) controls which is as follows. Left stick, left and right controls swing left and right. Pushing and pulling the left stick controls the stick boom. Pushing it moves the stick out and pulling will makes it move back towards you. On to the right stick. Left and right controls the head curl. Left curls the head down as when you dump the wood and right moves or curls the head back up. Pushing and pulling the right stick controls the boom up and down. Pushing it makes the boom go down and pulling it makes it lift or go up. There are also different controls such as ISO controls which basically take the stick and boom from the standard controls and inverts them. So the stick boom would be on the right instead of the left and the boom would be on the left instead of the right. As far as the buttons go on the joystick there really isn't many functions to operate other than the grab arms open and close and accumulators open and close. I prefer running the grab arms on the right stick and the accumulators on the left stick. Since the grab arms are the main arms using my right thumb to do most of the work feels better to me. Basically all the machines at work have the same configuration which makes it easier when you jump from one machine to another. The buncher is far from complex. There are machines with dozens of button functions which can be a little harder to learn. But with time you can learn anything. I hope this wasn't to confusing and answers your question.
@@arcticdan hey arctic dan your head should dump the trees when you move your right control to the right not the left. same as a excavator when you dump the bucket you move your right hand to the right. ive seen a lot of guys run them backwards like you described. where i come from we call those saskatchewan controls among other things. and if you dont believe me have a really good look at the control pattern stickers in the cab.
Not sure exactly what your asking but I will give it a shot. You can start timing them to work together by when closing the grab arms, open the accumulators. Once the accumulators are fully open close them to grip the trees in the head before opening the grab arms again.The timing varies depending on the amount of wood in the head but this is a good baseline. The accumulators have springs or elastic bands to activate their function. Meaning they can be pushed one way but not the other. This makes it possible to open the accumulators while the grab arms are putting pressure on the trees. Hope this can clarify your question/concern.
Yes, There are different types and sizes of wood in our area. Sometimes we get nice tree's that need to be cut several times as well but I'm sure the consistency of wood is not the same.
Block fall my man, it keeps everything so neat and tidy, bunches aren't laying on the one from last strip, checker board when ur done ,cuz the only time u need to put wood behind you,is boundaries or R/W
Instead of going from the road in strips back to boundaries, your strip would be parallel with the road,dont cut both directions if u know what I mean ,just harder to keep bunches straight, cut left to right, repeating process untill the last strip is opening the decking room along roadside, kinda sounds how you described as inbound?
@@MMikeHD3904 Ok, Instead of strips going in to out your saying to go from left to right parallel to the raod. I’ve heard about this method before, Someone I work with told me they used that method out west and that basically there are very little if any tree’s standing after doing this method. The skidders path out is also a lot rougher in comparison to just following the track trail of the buncher. Also I would like to point out that I personally would not recommend anyone put bunches directly behind them ever, but to the side. Even for road wood or boundary lines. I've learned my lesson the hard way having to back out of the bush for a maintenance call and everything was in my way. Also I can just imagine the jackpot it would be if the ground started breaking and had nowhere to back up to, also the road building guys would not be very happy with with us if we would put bunches in the way. I really enjoy learning about different methods people use when operating machines. Thank you for your comment.
@@arcticdan actually we'd leave all fir ,most poplar and anything not worth cutting, If ya didn't need to go into a lil piece,still inside boundaries, wouldn't even go into it, leaving non merch trees was important
@@arcticdan and yes but the movement is still swing wood behind you, of course it's off to one side depending on which side of road and what end of the block you start on
Yes its one of the older ones. The first one I did operate was actually a timberjack. It was very similar in appearance but not as much power as this one.
I haven't even cut a tree with a buncher yet and i have a hunch this will make my approach more calculated.
Thank you 👌
Thanks for this video. We have moved from a 618 TJ (fixed head with Hyd cylinder side to side tilt) to a 953K, the new one has a head like yours so this video has given me new possible that I have not thought of before. Thanks again
I've ran feller buncher in the Catskills of NYS periodically since 1995 when my boss at the time had a FB cutting head mounted on a 311 cat.
It was the first FB I know of in the area, everything we learned was trial n error. Nobody taught us anything cuz nobody knew anything about them around here
I've ran many different makes models since and I'll say I wish I had seen this before I started. Great video.
Thank you very much for your comment. I can understand how complicated it must have been to start with no instructions. I had many words of guidance when I started and yet it was still very complicated at times. Comments like yours fuel and motivate future video's.
An excellent video! Very informative.
Nice!
Very well done video. I appreciate your dialog, clear and to the point. Always interesting to see different wood and the techniques to go with it. Running a Buncher well looks simple but is surprisingly complex. Thanks for putting this together. Be safe!
Thank you for your inspiring comment. It makes , making video's all that much more worth it and fuel's the next project.
The claw on that felling head is wicked. It's like you're driving a gundham.
That a so good video, came for doing a better job in farming simulator 22, clear and Nice explain, love it
Thank you for your uplifting comment!
I only play Simulators but this Video was very informative and helpful. Thank you!
Good job Danny
Just purchased a new to me timberjack 618 feller buncher! This is extremely motivational. Great work! Can't wait to get some seat time in my new machine
Thank you, and congratulations!
Absolutely impressive the work, incredible the power of the feller and masterfully operated by you, it's a tremendous combination. Congratulations
Thank you very much for your uplifting comment!
Damn farming simulator 28 looking good
Thanks for this video I am going to be starting in a feller bunched this year and this video was very helpful
Thanks for your comment and good luck!
Excellent. Thank you
Outstanding video sir! But what do I do when the mill cuts quota back AGAIN!? 😆
Thank you! 😆Keep cutting anyway.
This instruction is great for that kind of ground/wood/location/method/style.
It doesn't all apply to mixed stand thinning in larger wood.
But great video!
Awesome video. I’ve been trying to get into forestry for quite a while but it’s so hard for a newbie to get any experience on a machine in my area.
Thank you! Keep at it. We mostly all start from the bottom. Applying yourself to any industry will eventually open you doors to discover. Even if its a job you don't want to do for the time being. Be patient and your time will come.
Looks fun!
Great!
Hey great video 👍 how do buncher controls work?
Thank you :). Which controls would you like to know about. joysticks/buttons/pedals or all of the above.
@@arcticdan joy stick and button functions 👍
@@pilotlife5190 Where I work we use SAE (standard) controls which is as follows. Left stick, left and right controls swing left and right. Pushing and pulling the left stick controls the stick boom. Pushing it moves the stick out and pulling will makes it move back towards you. On to the right stick. Left and right controls the head curl. Left curls the head down as when you dump the wood and right moves or curls the head back up. Pushing and pulling the right stick controls the boom up and down. Pushing it makes the boom go down and pulling it makes it lift or go up. There are also different controls such as ISO controls which basically take the stick and boom from the standard controls and inverts them. So the stick boom would be on the right instead of the left and the boom would be on the left instead of the right.
As far as the buttons go on the joystick there really isn't many functions to operate other than the grab arms open and close and accumulators open and close. I prefer running the grab arms on the right stick and the accumulators on the left stick. Since the grab arms are the main arms using my right thumb to do most of the work feels better to me. Basically all the machines at work have the same configuration which makes it easier when you jump from one machine to another. The buncher is far from complex. There are machines with dozens of button functions which can be a little harder to learn. But with time you can learn anything. I hope this wasn't to confusing and answers your question.
@@arcticdan hey arctic dan your head should dump the trees when you move your right control to the right not the left. same as a excavator when you dump the bucket you move your right hand to the right. ive seen a lot of guys run them backwards like you described. where i come from we call those saskatchewan controls among other things. and if you dont believe me have a really good look at the control pattern stickers in the cab.
@@AA-tb4ff To each their own I guess.
이거 구매할려면 어떻게 해야 하는건가요?
Nice
Been awhile since ive seen a nice swamp wood like that where about in northern ontario are you?
Cochrane District
@@arcticdan same here👍
I'm just trying to understand how to grab with one set and the other set of grapple claws.
Not sure exactly what your asking but I will give it a shot. You can start timing them to work together by when closing the grab arms, open the accumulators. Once the accumulators are fully open close them to grip the trees in the head before opening the grab arms again.The timing varies depending on the amount of wood in the head but this is a good baseline. The accumulators have springs or elastic bands to activate their function. Meaning they can be pushed one way but not the other. This makes it possible to open the accumulators while the grab arms are putting pressure on the trees. Hope this can clarify your question/concern.
Who put the farming sim graphics on ultrarealistic.
Small trees compared to northern alberta... I cut a single tree three times with a 953k buncher before It would fall.
Yes, There are different types and sizes of wood in our area. Sometimes we get nice tree's that need to be cut several times as well but I'm sure the consistency of wood is not the same.
Block fall my man, it keeps everything so neat and tidy, bunches aren't laying on the one from last strip, checker board when ur done ,cuz the only time u need to put wood behind you,is boundaries or R/W
Can you elaborate on this Block fall technique.
Instead of going from the road in strips back to boundaries, your strip would be parallel with the road,dont cut both directions if u know what I mean ,just harder to keep bunches straight, cut left to right, repeating process untill the last strip is opening the decking room along roadside, kinda sounds how you described as inbound?
@@MMikeHD3904 Ok, Instead of strips going in to out your saying to go from left to right parallel to the raod. I’ve heard about this method before, Someone I work with told me they used that method out west and that basically there are very little if any tree’s standing after doing this method. The skidders path out is also a lot rougher in comparison to just following the track trail of the buncher. Also I would like to point out that I personally would not recommend anyone put bunches directly behind them ever, but to the side. Even for road wood or boundary lines. I've learned my lesson the hard way having to back out of the bush for a maintenance call and everything was in my way. Also I can just imagine the jackpot it would be if the ground started breaking and had nowhere to back up to, also the road building guys would not be very happy with with us if we would put bunches in the way. I really enjoy learning about different methods people use when operating machines. Thank you for your comment.
@@arcticdan actually we'd leave all fir ,most poplar and anything not worth cutting, If ya didn't need to go into a lil piece,still inside boundaries, wouldn't even go into it, leaving non merch trees was important
@@arcticdan and yes but the movement is still swing wood behind you, of course it's off to one side depending on which side of road and what end of the block you start on
That's an older deere right it looked closer to the timber Jack which was the koehring 618
Yes its one of the older ones. The first one I did operate was actually a timberjack. It was very similar in appearance but not as much power as this one.
there I expert now
This guy make my brain hurt. I couldn't even finish watching it
Sorry about that Scott.