@zack991 it's easier but I can build a quality AR like Geissele, Dd, ADM for less than I can buy one. If you have the proper tools, save yourself the couple hundred bucks and put it towards an optic, light, sling or something else you may need. I just finished an ODG ADM build with 14.5 criterion core barrel which I had p&w for my suppressor host. It was about 100 more but i got better internals like trigger(Geissele sd-e), better barrel, better bcg(sionics np3), and radian talon safety selector. And I got it in odg, the Lords color, so I'd say I got a quality gun with better parts and don't have more extra parts laying around is a big win.
For years I built every AR I had. I sold almost all of them and started over atleast a dozen times. Two years ago my small locally owned LGS got a DDM4V7 in. I fell in love instantly and bought it. Replaced the trigger and put a suppressor on there along with optics and it’s my absolute favorite AR I’ve ever owned and now my go to rifle.
I’ve got one as well but it shoots like a battle rifle. It’s better with the Geissele super 42 spring and D3 buffer but... I prefer to shoot the rifles I’ve built as they tend to be much smoother shooting.
Just bought my first ar and I went with the ddm4v7 and I love it don’t have buyers remorse at all but did have to change the trigger your right about that
I prefer building, now. I bought a POF years ago (loved it), but had to sell it. Since then, I've assembled 2 rifles and am working on a third. You learn so much building them and you can control exactly what you want. Also, you learn how to better maintain them.
And you can buy the quality of parts you want and the features you want…..and if they are super high quality it generally fits like a Swiss watch. Perfect. I agree entirely.
You can also spend that $2k over a few weeks or months/years instead all at once. So for those of us "poor" people, buying a more budget friendly model that has at least everything needed to use when needed and then adding or changing things over time is the way to go.
This is the truth for sure. If you buy a less expensive rifle you can start training and have that carbine ready. Then you LEARN what you want by running the gun, you build and adjust and LEARN the platform inside and out. All that knowledge is invaluable. I hear guys say all the time “well I’m not a gunsmith I want to buy a great product already built by a professional”. That’s great but what happens when it fails and you can’t take it to a gunsmith.
@ECO Base Tech yep I saved like 1000 bucks with my build because I got the parts I wanted versus having to buy an AR, then taking stuff off and adding.
My first AR was a box of generic parts and a freefloat aero handguard. Once you put it all together, you realize it isn't that big of a deal to swap parts around. I will probably end up having switched out everything but the upper and lower receiver when all is said and done. It is a fun game to play.
I definitely prefer to build. It's rewarding when you learn about part tolerances and start working with quality/high tier parts. My go to is a built 11.5. Geissele upper receiver/mk16, triarc barrel, microbest bcg on a knights lower, a5, ssa-e with a lpvo. You can build what you want with quality/high tier parts when you have the correct tools to work with.
I built a super high end AR for a week long Gunsite carbine course. It ran like a sewing machine here in Florida on the coast. Took it to Gunsite 4500ft above sea level in windy dusty conditions and it had multiple malfunctions because it dried out and the adjustable gas block was not set wide open. Of the 20 students all but two had malfunctions….some were unrecoverable and they had to rent a rifle from Gunsite. The two that had zero malfunctions….1200 rounds in shitty conditions….stock Daniel Defense DDM4 V7s. A new DD M4A1 RIS III now sits in my collection.
Companies do this to save money. They can make their own parts for cheaper than buying parts from another company. It doesn’t automatically mean the parts are better.
@@MrLuckeastwood Go look at the receiver when they get it from the forging company. It's a solid blank. The machining is done by DD. The fit and finish, the specs, all of it is DD. So when you say that they get it from someone else, is really a disservice and pretty ignorant. Compare this to a company that actually does buy the completed product and has their name etched onto it.
@Slowmo Yes, it does make the parts better. What are you people smoking. For example, they can have absolute control over the QUALITY of the part, confirm the proper material being used. They save money to boot which allows them to manufacture other parts in house and keep control over the entire product. Vs being forced to buy from many vendors hoping they were manufactured right.
@@MrLuckeastwood That isnt what that means at all. There are 4 main forges in the country. They still have to be machined and completed by those manufacturers. Yes psa and DD may get their raw materials from the same forgings but the end product is completely different.
An ACOG on my DDM4V7 and it is a real tack driver. A light rifle that feels incredible. I don’t mind the gritty trigger, but I am in the minority there. It is an incredible rifle thatis worth the money. Buy once, cry once.
Everyone's preference will be different I'm sure. Just like cars, some folks want to tinker, others just want it to run reliably off the lot. I built my AR from a kit, and what was valuable to me was learning everything about how it works and fits together, and buying the tools that I can then use for maintenance and upgrades later. And I saved a BUNCH of money doing that, and though that wasn't my primary purpose (I do like to tinker), it was a factor. And now, as time passes, I can upgrade it here and there as I wish, but only what I think is necessary, not what someone else does. It's MY baby. 🙂 OTOH, if I could've gotten EXACTLY what I wanted in an OTS rifle for a reasonable price, I might have gone for it.
Build all day! I’ve only bought one complete rifle and changed everything. About 25 complete builds since then. The only way to go to get exactly what you want.
Pro tip. instead of changing the gas block to a set screw type and getting rid of the superior pinned block. Cut the top of the sight off grind to a smooth finish. Paint with high heat paint and re pin it back on. Now your much stronger.
I would 100% go with the DD M4 V7, they are a real tack driver on top of being rugged and tough, congratulations on being monetized however don’t get your hopes up as UA-cam is not too friendly to the gun tube channels and has a nack for demonetizeing they’re gun channels unfortunately, but you’ll figure it out, anyways congratulations And your content is great, You do a great job at it so regardless of what UA-cam does don’t let it get you down. Keep up the good work 👍
First ar I got was a Smith and Wesson... The second one was one a pieced put and out together from PSA. Started out as thee most generic ar with magpul furniture and iron sights... I've put through it 2000 rounds of the nastiest steel cased ammo and then probably 500 rounds of brass and it has ran like a champ. I've modified it over the course of a year or so by upgrading my handguard to a Midwest industries free float, vortex strike eagle lpvo, and a few other things such as a foregrip. But I have throughly enjoyed building it and putting it together. Next upgrade will be a quality light and then I'll be dumping/upgrading the strike eagle to a better lpvo. The rifle has been very good for me and I'd definitely want to do it again
Great video. I have built probably a dozen or so of these things, and I can say that building out yourself is the way to go. For example, you now have an extra barrel, handguard, gas block, trigger, stock, safety, etc... You could build another gun for like 250 bucks with those extra parts. It would suck ass to shoot, but it would shoot!
My first true AR was a DDM4 V5 many years ago and it is still rock solid. It does not carry the same feel as today’s offerings but at the time it was top to the line to me. The V7 gets the nod in my book out of the choices listed.
It's my understanding DD makes 99% in house. From the upper, lower, gas block, and the handrail. On a side note, the upper and lower are matched. So you don't get that annoying rattle if the rife is shook.
I also dumped a bunch of money in low end firearms and products that never scratched that itch for what I actually wanted. To be fair, I was new to firearms and didn’t really have a direction with what I wanted so I’d buy eBay crap cause it was cheap and looked cool. I eventually changed my thinking to buy once, cry once. With that, I also started practicing quality over quantity and sold off redundant firearms/accessories that really had no purpose and used those funds to pursue the firearms and accessories that I really wanted. I love the UTG, Anderson, and PSA level of products but I prefer to buy quality from the jump. Thanks for the vid.
I would have to say geissele super duty already comes with a ssa e x bow, double pinned gas block, and a surefire flash hider, and is about the same price point in my area at least to the daniel defense. 2057$ for the brown ddm4v7 and 2225$ for the brown geissele super duty for the cost of the trigger and flash hider geissele all day in my opinion!
Yes. That is one rifle that is a bargain and comes exactly like I would want it right out of the box. Price that BCG, Barrel, rail, Ultra duty lower parts kit, that new enhanced trigger ect all on their own. Building that rifle with all the parts they use is easily a $3k rifle that you are getting for around $2k. Even though that rifle will live a very long time even in the harshest of conditions I have seen it shoot sub MOA too. Its hard to find a rifle that well built and rugged that will still shoot sub MOA. The DD is one that falls in that category too but I think the Geissle BCG, lower parts kit and trigger are superior especially the trigger which is FAR superior. Already has a suppressor host on it as well for one of the best suppressors there is.
I just got a Geissele Super Duty a few weeks ago!! I'm just now working on getting it setup. I got a sling and I still need an optic and some backup iron sights. I love all the upgrades the Geissele has right out of the box! So much better than my Springfield Saint Victor B5 I got a few years ago. You get what you pay for and the Geissele is fantastic!!
just for the record when i went to click on the like button, it was at the number of 556. i did NOT like having to press on the button to change it but i took the plunge. Btw i think it is good to learn about the rifle while upgrading it. Plus you will be able to learn more about how the system works when a person mixes and matches. Not to mention budget is work considering, Ruger makes solid guns and if a person picked one up and started experimenting with what works for their own shooting needs all the while spending a few hundred at a time. So yes it ends up to be the same rough price, but the dude who upgraded that Ruger generally learned alot more about what they need vs the guy who probably bought the DD and could be no well ahead of anyone else. It is a lot like a guy who buys a new BMW vs the guy who bought a 2002 civic. Chances are the driver with the civic knows how to take care of the car a bit more vs the BMW owner who might not. Just my thought.
while I have just bought quality before and probably will again. and I do love building things to my spec from the ground up. Being issued a plain jane rifle I turned into a E3 again outfitting the gun to fit what I needed on the job while keeping that block 1 vibe. I dig it no nonsense user rifle that just runs like a kid after the ice cream truck
I am a believer in buy and modify, because I have yet to find any gun on the market that is built the way I would want it. there is always something that needs changed, whether it be a handguard, barrel, trigger, stock, grip, etc. I mean yeah! there are those I could buy that are good as they are, but eventually I would still change something..
I think the answer for me is "it depends". Out of your two options, the Daniel Defense for sure. However, I can build a great, duty grade rifle, minus optic, for under $1000. At that point the decision becomes harder. Do I save a ton of money and go for a build that I know has been put together well and with high quality parts and will be extremely rugged and reliable or do I go for a complete rifle that has a proven track record? Normally I go for the build.
My first AR was a matched Battle Arms Development receiver set that I ended up putting every high-end bell and whistle I could get for it. Ended up being over $5300 when all said and done. It's super light, a dream to shoot, and I love every part of it. The sad thing is that now any rifle I build will always come in 2nd place at best, lol. Not nearly as much fun to build another rifle when you know it won't be better than what you already have. My recent build was a BCA 10.5" 50 Beowulf upper, a PSA full lower, and Vortex Crossfire II scope. All black Friday deals, so ended up costing less than $580 for those three components. Added $300 or so in extras, and it's a blast. I like building because you don't feel bad replacing parts as the tech gets better. If you want to keep a DD on top of its game, you'd end up replacing half the rifle in the next 10-15 years. DD makes great rifles, but they don't have the best components out there. They do have great features, but I'd probably be more interested in starting with their receivers, and building up from there. I don't like paying for a name when there are better aftermarket options for the same price.
I prefer buy and cry for the most part. My Rifle was a BCM RECCE-14 13" MCMR Enhanced Lightweight MK2 BFH 14.5 with a pinned SureFire WarComp in 5.56x45mm. I had the upper add a BCM Gunfighter Bolt Carrier Group and a BCM Gunfighter Ambidextrous 4X4 charging handle. The backup sights are Troy Industry HK-style sights. The main optic is an EOTECH EXPS3-4 with G45 magnifier. The IR laser is an EOTECH PEQ15. The weaponlight is a SureFire Scout M622U mounted to a BCM 45-degree MLOK picatinny light mount. With a SureFire Tailcap attached to a Unity Tactical Taps Synch pressure pad for the weapon light and IR. I added a BCM rail covers, and BCM short vertical grip turned around for hand placement. I got a SureFire SOCOM556 Mini 2 suppressor. The lower was also BCM complete lower. I changed the trigger for a Geissele SSA-E trigger. Upgraded the safety selector to the BCM ambidextrous safety selector. The Sling is a BlueForce Gear Vickers 2-1 Padded swivel sling. I also use primarily Lancer L5AWM smoke translucent mags in it loaded with Black Hills 77gr OTM ammo. The furniture on the lower is the BCM MOD3 pistol grip, and stock is a BCM MOD0 SOPMOD buttstock. This I the main Rifle I train with.
Aero lower, buffer tube with faxon barrel w\ superlative gas block, handguard, upper and magpul stock. Put a BCM trigger, but swapped with JP springs. All for around $1k. Runs fantastic.
I've bought, then modified two AR rifles to date. My first, like you, and I'm sure many others, an M4 clone that was quickly changed to a free float hand guard. Then the stock, trigger, optics, and so on. Then I built up one from parts alone. Bought the lower, the barrel, hand guard, bcg, optic, trigger, and a small amount of miscellaneous parts. I haven't done the buy once method yet, but my favorite by far is buy and modify. Being able to pick and choose is very satisfying. I like the parts build as well, but it just doesn't have as much character.
I am buy once, cry once. I had two AR that made from parts assemble together, despite the reputable brand name parts being used the tolerance stacking between difference manufacture is there. Not mentioning the surface finish is slightly differ as well. However a KAC, LMT, DD, LWRC, Sig, Colt, etc their fit and finish is matching all the way across the board.
@@jki808 the barrel extension feed ram and upper feed ram. They are not bad that could cause a malfunction, however they didn’t line up as other “off the shelves” rifle i owned.
I wouldn't buy a DD rifle or upper for that matter. But I do prefer to choose my uppers and build my lowers. If should also be noted that a nitrided barrel will have a very long lifespan. I have seen full auto barrels with 24k+ by the time they need to be swapped. That being said I think it is nice to have a chrome lined option like what BCM, Geissle, Criterion, Centurion,and now Aero offers (there are some others of course). But it's not as if a nitrided barrel is a downgrade, and if anything, it has its own benefits. If you are dealing with a 416R barrel then you are going to see a reduced lifespan, but you can always send a barrel to be finished if you want the benefits that come with the nitriding process.
I got one of the cheapest complete M5 lowers from Aero Precision and it has the waffle stock, A2 grip, and a single sided safety. Now I hate the A2 grip it gives me blisters and the waffle stock just feels cheap so I'm waiting on Magpul replacements for those, but I actually like the single sided safety and the mil-spec trigger it came with about 5 or 6lbs and pretty short clean consistent break about half the distance on my Radical RF-15 in 5.56. I like the single sided safety more than the standard ambi safeties because when in fire mode the switch hits my hand and it's just uncomfortable until you put your finger on the trigger, it's really nice just not having it there, now I've never used one of the safeties with a slim profile on the right side but the safeties with the standard switch are just uncomfortable for me. You know I would rather buy and & cry but I just never have the budget for that I always end up buying & modifying because I spend a lot less at once because that's all I ever have if I could I would totally get the good stuff.
I bought my first AR Rifle a couple months ago, the 5.56 Diamondback DB15 with their black gold receiver. I love it as a starter but as I learn about it I plan to upgrade parts
My Aero build is very similar to your Ruger. Same handguard, with Aero's M4E1 recievers, BCM charging handle, Toolcraft nitride BCG, Ballistic Advantage stainless steel barrel, an SL-S stock, SL grip, and for the trigger, I just polished the contact points and put some JP enhanced power springs in it. It weighs 6.8 pounds with red dot and Magpul BUIS.
I have a similar set of rifles, I have a DDM4V7, and a highly modified Savage MSR. I’m glad to know I’m not the only one who has done this. I love my Daniel, but I also have a soft spot for the Savage
Id go with the Ruger MPR 18 inch barrel rifle length gas system comes already upgraded from the factory comes with all the addons and is super accurate out past 300yds like clockwork
If you're gonna do any major modifications that'll take you away from the original. Your best off building from scratch that best fit what you want. There's always something that you'll want to modify on a factory rifle.
I bought a Type-A Contractor 14.5 special order with Kahles lpvo/offset 509t... and built an Aero/BCM with Geissele sd-c and charging handle, Magpul grip, b5 stock, Swampfox Arrowhead/offset Kingslayer. Will eventually get a better lpvo and red dot for it.
@@J.Young808 the Type-A is top notch. Softest shooting I've ever had. But it's a 9 month wait because they don't make it til you order it lol. It's so tight you gotta take a punch to the takedown pins. Really a solid rifle. My build is solid too but there was some fu&* ups. I dented the threads on the buffer tube tightening the castle nut. Forgot to break the barrel in. The Accu-washer for the warcomp was confusing af. But it was an awesome learning exp.
Building all the way. You’ll get better with every mistake and if ever something breaks or doesn’t work properly, you will know whats going on and know how to fix it by yourself.
Right off the bat, take the build with the carbine length gas system and change the buffer system to an A5. It makes the recoil impulse so much smoother with the carbine gas system. I guess it depends on what the purpose of your rifle is. I've built a ton from cheap/budget PSAs and aero precision up to bcm, noveske, Geissele, ADM, hodge and more. I do like to wait for deals but on the higher end parts, quality parts from hodge and forward controls sell out very fast and I'll pay whatever it's listed at. UTG is an extremely budget friendly company but I wouldn't consider their products durable. The heart of the gun is the bcg and barrel and for the 275 spent on the trigger, I would've gone to a sionics, MA or other quality bcg for closer to 200-250 and a larue(quality budget trigger). But yes the timney competition trigger is nice. If it's a range toy, sure, just upgrade the trigger, safety selector, grip, and whatever else makes it more comfortable for you.
I bought a Diamondback AR 15 replaced the stock with BCM soap mod, changed the buffer spring and buffer to H2, charging handle to BCM Large gunfighter, gas block to a Geissele, and a 2 stage Geissele trigger and a BCM Comp. I’m hitting steel standing with no rest at 300 yards with ease no muzzle flip or ride my son got a Daniel my gun recoil impulse was less than the DD4 .
Or you just buy the MPR version with Rugers Elite trigger, a good Mlok hand guard already on it , the same buttstock you have already installed , and a Rifle length gas system. For 750. Do that comparison because it eliminates a lot of your expenses on the Ruger you got.
I had the MPR and sold it, it shot nice and smooth with some ammo and wouldn’t reliably cycle others until I swapped out the bcg for a BCM bcg and then it ran 100% reliable. You can tell where they saved money making that rifle.
@@brentflowers7612 My only point here is that he spent so much money and time putting parts on the standard Ruger that the MPR already has for like 200 more if that. That’s the comparison that should be done. He basically spent way more money turning his rifle into the MPR …..I don’t recall if the bolt was replaced in this video but as you stated that’s basically the one thing I’d replace aside from the stock charging handle.
With the cost of rifles "out of the box" nowadays, I prefer to build (well- more like assemble). At the end, you get EXACTLY what you want. I found that the options I wanted simply weren't offered on one rifle. It would make no sense to buy a rifle then basically remove everything and replace it.
My first AR purchase is the Del-Ton Sport. Great gun and never had any problems. Then I purchased the DDM4V7 which is also great. I love both. No modifications. Kept both straight out of the box.
Bro. I almost built your Ruger from a complete lower. I wanted a 16" chrome lined 4150 CHF, with a Ruger Eagle on it, for 3 gun matches out to 400yds. So I found a screaming deal on the barrel (because it's carbine length), and put it in an Aero receiver and handguard. Timney single stage trigger. Nickle BCG. The rest is built around 3 gun with a latchless charging handle, huge magazine release, V3 ambi bolt release, 45° ambi safety, insanely loud SJC Titan comp. I appreciate your 1x to 3× optics rather than cranking an LPVO lever. There's no time for cranking. But a 2nd optic on the rifle would put me in the open division. And I need a little more than 3x for punching the center out of clays at 400rds. And taking my hand off the handguard would cost time. So I run a 1-6x, only at 6x, and 45° fiber optic irons for everything inside of 100yds. I'm in it $1800 with the sling.
The Ruger as it is now would be my choice, I'm not totally a name brand snob. I would have a different set up for my person, I like pistol grips K2+ and minimalist stocks. I say either will last you the duration of any fight.
I'm REALLY tempted to pick up a Ruger SFAR....16 or 20 in barrel is what's im thinking about... I like Ruger pretty good....the 16in is awful light to be chambered in 308 with that gas system, I'm thinking 20in barrel would be the better choice... not overly concerned about recoil but it's something to think about
I had a Ruger with the mlok rail got a sig m400 tread . Working on my LWRCI m6 ic di now just got to get a surefire scout or something similar. Love that rifle though. Enjoy the ambi lower and the fluted barrel just looks good and the rail is solid almost monolithic. No screws for the gas key. It's a good value in my opinion. DD makes excellent rifles though. I also never had a problem with the Ruger but didn't have it long. SSL . Squirrel 🐿️
I did the same with my 1st AR. Spent $ on affordable upgrades only to realize I still wasn’t satisfied b4 spending on high-end parts. Did the same when I got into building, being at awe with Gucci competition parts b4 realizing quality duty parts are what I needed in my preps. You live & learn, but it’s an expensive lesson.
The upgraded Ruger Ar-556 MPR is about $60 more & comes with the upgraded Magpul stock & grip that you bought. As well, it comes with some of your other upgrades: free floated hand rail (no A2 front site post / gas block - which caused most of your headaches), an upgraded trigger, and ambi safety. Do you feel that had you started off with the upgraded MPR for only $60 more, and then upgraded, this would've been a much better way to go?
reason I own 2 DD ARs. THE rifle I would trust no matter what. Triggers were not bad but I did add the Geiselle combat flat trigger. plus if anything goes with the DD it is replaced no matter if you are original owner or 3rd. Warranty still applies. As long as gun exists. BCG wears out- replaced-- Barrel- Replaced etc you get it. best Warranty in the business.
I just got a Geissele Super Duty a few weeks ago. My first AR was the Springfield Saint Victor B5 and I wanted something better and more reliable. Buy the best rifle you can afford to start with!
I’ve done it all lol. My first AR was a DDM4V7, then a Zav core elite .300 blk. Now I’m building a SOLGW/FCD lower piece by piece. Learning a lot doing it.
“Does that mean buying a DD right out of the box is better?” Yes, yes it does. Every single time. Except knights armament. I’d take the knights. A Ruger with aero jewelry is just a Ruger with aero jewelry.
Obviously this depends on the situation. 1) Have a functional rifle first. Check: DPMS AR15, it runs, holds a 2" group from first to last shot even after 3 mag dumps @ 100yrds. Installed freefloat hand guard, groups closed up to 1.5". 2) Built a 6.5 Grendel. Initial cost ~$1K. Includes optic and bipod and LaRue MBT2 trigger. 20" HBAR, BCA barrel, BCA Bolt carrier group, free floated handguad. Vortex Diamondback 6-24X50 Tactical Scope. Result: 2" groups @ 100yds. Have tried many load recipes with no change. Replaced barrel with Faxon Heavy Fluted 20" Match, installed a Ultrdyne Apollo Max muzzle break. Result: 3/4" group @ 100yds. Total parts cost? About $1300, the education was priceless. I tinker all the time, but I had a blast building this rifle. Now I'm really enjoying finding my limits with it. I met and friended a competition shooter at the range. Invited them to try my rifle, they shot a 3 round clover leaf group @ 100yds, then told me "That's a shooter!". This was the first rounds this person shot from my rifle. I'm not saying this thing is ready for combat, I do believe with a little more practice I have my new dear rifle.
I would prefer modifying, because at the end of the day, I only need a couple more pieces to assemble the original rifle that can be used as a beater rifle or a loaner.
I bought an LWRCi M6IC DI in burnt bronze with all their furniture. Wish I went with something lighter I built up a PSA lower to mount my BCM 300 BO upper I built out a WMD matched set and then I changed out my upper for a lightweight built aero upper, built up by my local gunsmith. I have a Wilson Combat blem stripped lower that I’m contemplating on what to build. I’ve also been waiting 2.5 years for a San Tan Tactical billet matched set to be built into a 6ARC.
When I got a rail for my Ruger AR556, the original barrel nut was a nightmare to remove. Needed tons of heat and when it was finally off, there was some kind of black goo which seemed like version of loctite.
I have done all of these. My ddm4 v7 I also upgraded trigger to giessele sde radian raptor charger Wilson combat bolt carrier. As will as sure fire 3 prong. I like nice things tho. Forgot about radian 45 degree selector and extended mag release and Wilson combat forward grip. Trij acog 4x and cloud defense light
I spent waaaay too much modifying my ruger. Swapped the barrel out for a midlength gas system even smh. It's been an experience for sure but now I know what I prefer in terms of parts and the setup.
@@dadbodoperator2466 Yeah, learned my lesson though. I've reconfigured it like 3 times before I found what works for me. I could've bought DD or LMT by now.
Buy and cry. Just get the one you want. Building it is just as much if one uses good parts. Daniels makes a great rifle. The only thing i woud change on a DD is the pistol grip. To skinny for my hands.
Haha just came across your channel your delivery is spot on. I did a video on my channel on the ar556 that was issued by my dept and mods I did. Well done my man you got a sub from me
I prefer to build, because I know what I prefer, what is quality and what is not, etc. That said, I spent almost $6k combined on my last two AR builds. Not proud of that, just saying, different strokes for different folks.
In your case I would buy the DD vs. the Ruger. For me, my first rifle was a DD. I changed the trigger, muzzle device and charging handle. Since then I’ve built all of my other rifles from scratch. I love building my own as I can build exactly what I want and it’s produced some pretty cool guns.
@@seanroberts381 None at all, it’s a great rifle. But…it’s not the smoothest shooting rifle, it’s not the lightest rifle, it’s not the shortest “16 inch” rifle you can get. It’s a great multi-purpose rifle that is well built from quality components and designs. It works. If I was to buy a new one of that cost I would consider the Sig Spear LT. That rifle has a lot more newer tech in it and is truly ambi which is great even for right handed people.
@@seanroberts381 I have a pair of DD uppers. One sitting on an aero lower, the other waiting for an ADAC lower to get SBRed. The only regrets I could see with a factory DD is the lower and the furniture is average, you're probably going to be replacing a decent amount. Other issues are pinned and welded proprietary A2 birdcage being hot garbage on all their 14.5 offerings. It's just a far better option to buy their upper and pair it with an aero lower if you want to save a bit, or a radian if you want full ambi controls. I honestly think ADM is a better option if you want a factory gun and don't want to pay those top tier premium prices. You're getting a geissele g2s trigger, surefire warcomp, radian charging handle and ambi safety out of the box.
I've never had an AR that came near to how I wanted. The InRange WWSD & some of SOLGW have come close. My OCD about every single component makes me a build guy. If you can come close; buy and modify makes sense. I've never seen a gear head love a stock car, they can always tweek: and gun people are no different.
4140 steel is fine, geissele uses 4140 cold hammer forged barrels so it really matters more who made the barrel and how it is finished than whether it is 4140 or 4150
Rugers barrels are nitrited which make their surface really hard. I actually question if there is a noticeable difference in barrel life between 4140 & 4150 considering this.
they do manufacture their uppers and lowers. they just dont forge them. they get the forgings and machine them their selves. there is a big difference in what company machines them because that where u get good speced lowers and uppers from. holding tight tolerances so u have no wiggle between uppers and lowers. same with bcg and other components. then they like all other top tier manufacturers will sell the out of spec parts to places like psa so they can say u get a toolcraft bcg for 70 bucks. why? because a quality builder sent it back cause it wasnt in spec. thats the difference from companies like dd, geissele, lmt, kac, and so on.there is a big difference in quality, just because they didnt forge it doesnt mean they didnt manufacture it. thats what those multi million dollar 9 axis cnc machines are for.
I believe all of the gun nuts are going to modify their guns if for nothing else than the fact they can't help but do so.
Yet buy a solid based rifle that is made right to begin with.
Amen to that!
@zack991 until something cool comes out then you have a modified gun anyway lol
@zack991 it's easier but I can build a quality AR like Geissele, Dd, ADM for less than I can buy one. If you have the proper tools, save yourself the couple hundred bucks and put it towards an optic, light, sling or something else you may need.
I just finished an ODG ADM build with 14.5 criterion core barrel which I had p&w for my suppressor host. It was about 100 more but i got better internals like trigger(Geissele sd-e), better barrel, better bcg(sionics np3), and radian talon safety selector. And I got it in odg, the Lords color, so I'd say I got a quality gun with better parts and don't have more extra parts laying around is a big win.
What if you add the light?
For years I built every AR I had. I sold almost all of them and started over atleast a dozen times. Two years ago my small locally owned LGS got a DDM4V7 in. I fell in love instantly and bought it. Replaced the trigger and put a suppressor on there along with optics and it’s my absolute favorite AR I’ve ever owned and now my go to rifle.
I have a DDM4V9, basically the V7 except it has the DD RIS II rails on it instead of M-Lok. This alongside the DD MK12 are my favorite rifles so far.
I’ve got one as well but it shoots like a battle rifle. It’s better with the Geissele super 42 spring and D3 buffer but... I prefer to shoot the rifles I’ve built as they tend to be much smoother shooting.
Just bought my first ar and I went with the ddm4v7 and I love it don’t have buyers remorse at all but did have to change the trigger your right about that
you went with GuysLee or Timney?!
I think experimenting and finding what you like by trial and error, which is also a learning experience, has a value on its own.
I have several DD M4 V7 rifles and really enjoy them all! BUY once cry once....
I prefer building, now. I bought a POF years ago (loved it), but had to sell it. Since then, I've assembled 2 rifles and am working on a third. You learn so much building them and you can control exactly what you want. Also, you learn how to better maintain them.
Building is definitely more fun.
And you can buy the quality of parts you want and the features you want…..and if they are super high quality it generally fits like a Swiss watch. Perfect. I agree entirely.
You can also spend that $2k over a few weeks or months/years instead all at once. So for those of us "poor" people, buying a more budget friendly model that has at least everything needed to use when needed and then adding or changing things over time is the way to go.
This is the truth for sure. If you buy a less expensive rifle you can start training and have that carbine ready. Then you LEARN what you want by running the gun, you build and adjust and LEARN the platform inside and out. All that knowledge is invaluable. I hear guys say all the time “well I’m not a gunsmith I want to buy a great product already built by a professional”. That’s great but what happens when it fails and you can’t take it to a gunsmith.
@ECO Base Tech yep I saved like 1000 bucks with my build because I got the parts I wanted versus having to buy an AR, then taking stuff off and adding.
My first AR was a box of generic parts and a freefloat aero handguard. Once you put it all together, you realize it isn't that big of a deal to swap parts around. I will probably end up having switched out everything but the upper and lower receiver when all is said and done. It is a fun game to play.
I definitely prefer to build. It's rewarding when you learn about part tolerances and start working with quality/high tier parts. My go to is a built 11.5. Geissele upper receiver/mk16, triarc barrel, microbest bcg on a knights lower, a5, ssa-e with a lpvo. You can build what you want with quality/high tier parts when you have the correct tools to work with.
"build"
I built a super high end AR for a week long Gunsite carbine course. It ran like a sewing machine here in Florida on the coast. Took it to Gunsite 4500ft above sea level in windy dusty conditions and it had multiple malfunctions because it dried out and the adjustable gas block was not set wide open. Of the 20 students all but two had malfunctions….some were unrecoverable and they had to rent a rifle from Gunsite. The two that had zero malfunctions….1200 rounds in shitty conditions….stock Daniel Defense DDM4 V7s. A new DD M4A1 RIS III now sits in my collection.
Daniel defense does manufacture everything in house including the upper and lower receiver unlike most other companies
Companies do this to save money. They can make their own parts for cheaper than buying parts from another company. It doesn’t automatically mean the parts are better.
@@MrLuckeastwood Go look at the receiver when they get it from the forging company. It's a solid blank. The machining is done by DD. The fit and finish, the specs, all of it is DD. So when you say that they get it from someone else, is really a disservice and pretty ignorant. Compare this to a company that actually does buy the completed product and has their name etched onto it.
@@MrLuckeastwood a forging doesn't matter it's when it's machined that matters
@Slowmo Yes, it does make the parts better. What are you people smoking. For example, they can have absolute control over the QUALITY of the part, confirm the proper material being used. They save money to boot which allows them to manufacture other parts in house and keep control over the entire product. Vs being forced to buy from many vendors hoping they were manufactured right.
@@MrLuckeastwood That isnt what that means at all. There are 4 main forges in the country. They still have to be machined and completed by those manufacturers. Yes psa and DD may get their raw materials from the same forgings but the end product is completely different.
BCM, LMT, DD and Geissle are sold factory built rifles with good warranties (if you run your rifle hard a warranty can be helpful)
An ACOG on my DDM4V7 and it is a real tack driver. A light rifle that feels incredible. I don’t mind the gritty trigger, but I am in the minority there. It is an incredible rifle thatis worth the money. Buy once, cry once.
Everyone's preference will be different I'm sure. Just like cars, some folks want to tinker, others just want it to run reliably off the lot. I built my AR from a kit, and what was valuable to me was learning everything about how it works and fits together, and buying the tools that I can then use for maintenance and upgrades later. And I saved a BUNCH of money doing that, and though that wasn't my primary purpose (I do like to tinker), it was a factor. And now, as time passes, I can upgrade it here and there as I wish, but only what I think is necessary, not what someone else does. It's MY baby. 🙂 OTOH, if I could've gotten EXACTLY what I wanted in an OTS rifle for a reasonable price, I might have gone for it.
DANIEL DEFENSE ALL DAY. RELIABLE AND BUILT WELL
Build all day! I’ve only bought one complete rifle and changed everything. About 25 complete builds since then. The only way to go to get exactly what you want.
Pro tip. instead of changing the gas block to a set screw type and getting rid of the superior pinned block.
Cut the top of the sight off grind to a smooth finish. Paint with high heat paint and re pin it back on.
Now your much stronger.
I would 100% go with the DD M4 V7, they are a real tack driver on top of being rugged and tough, congratulations on being monetized however don’t get your hopes up as UA-cam is not too friendly to the gun tube channels and has a nack for demonetizeing they’re gun channels unfortunately, but you’ll figure it out, anyways congratulations And your content is great, You do a great job at it so regardless of what UA-cam does don’t let it get you down. Keep up the good work 👍
First ar I got was a Smith and Wesson... The second one was one a pieced put and out together from PSA. Started out as thee most generic ar with magpul furniture and iron sights... I've put through it 2000 rounds of the nastiest steel cased ammo and then probably 500 rounds of brass and it has ran like a champ. I've modified it over the course of a year or so by upgrading my handguard to a Midwest industries free float, vortex strike eagle lpvo, and a few other things such as a foregrip. But I have throughly enjoyed building it and putting it together. Next upgrade will be a quality light and then I'll be dumping/upgrading the strike eagle to a better lpvo.
The rifle has been very good for me and I'd definitely want to do it again
Great video. I have built probably a dozen or so of these things, and I can say that building out yourself is the way to go. For example, you now have an extra barrel, handguard, gas block, trigger, stock, safety, etc... You could build another gun for like 250 bucks with those extra parts. It would suck ass to shoot, but it would shoot!
Buy once, cry once. It always works out better in the long run.
My first true AR was a DDM4 V5 many years ago and it is still rock solid. It does not carry the same feel as today’s offerings but at the time it was top to the line to me. The V7 gets the nod in my book out of the choices listed.
Why isn’t a Ruger 556 a “true” AR?
It's my understanding DD makes 99% in house. From the upper, lower, gas block, and the handrail. On a side note, the upper and lower are matched. So you don't get that annoying rattle if the rife is shook.
Yeah when he said someone was making the lower for DD I was like nope. DD makes their rifle 100% completely in house.
I also dumped a bunch of money in low end firearms and products that never scratched that itch for what I actually wanted. To be fair, I was new to firearms and didn’t really have a direction with what I wanted so I’d buy eBay crap cause it was cheap and looked cool. I eventually changed my thinking to buy once, cry once. With that, I also started practicing quality over quantity and sold off redundant firearms/accessories that really had no purpose and used those funds to pursue the firearms and accessories that I really wanted. I love the UTG, Anderson, and PSA level of products but I prefer to buy quality from the jump.
Thanks for the vid.
I would have to say geissele super duty already comes with a ssa e x bow, double pinned gas block, and a surefire flash hider, and is about the same price point in my area at least to the daniel defense. 2057$ for the brown ddm4v7 and 2225$ for the brown geissele super duty for the cost of the trigger and flash hider geissele all day in my opinion!
Yes. That is one rifle that is a bargain and comes exactly like I would want it right out of the box. Price that BCG, Barrel, rail, Ultra duty lower parts kit, that new enhanced trigger ect all on their own. Building that rifle with all the parts they use is easily a $3k rifle that you are getting for around $2k. Even though that rifle will live a very long time even in the harshest of conditions I have seen it shoot sub MOA too. Its hard to find a rifle that well built and rugged that will still shoot sub MOA. The DD is one that falls in that category too but I think the Geissle BCG, lower parts kit and trigger are superior especially the trigger which is FAR superior. Already has a suppressor host on it as well for one of the best suppressors there is.
Geiselle is definitely getting the job done. They make great rifles without a doubt.
I just got a Geissele Super Duty a few weeks ago!! I'm just now working on getting it setup. I got a sling and I still need an optic and some backup iron sights. I love all the upgrades the Geissele has right out of the box! So much better than my Springfield Saint Victor B5 I got a few years ago. You get what you pay for and the Geissele is fantastic!!
just for the record when i went to click on the like button, it was at the number of 556. i did NOT like having to press on the button to change it but i took the plunge. Btw i think it is good to learn about the rifle while upgrading it. Plus you will be able to learn more about how the system works when a person mixes and matches. Not to mention budget is work considering, Ruger makes solid guns and if a person picked one up and started experimenting with what works for their own shooting needs all the while spending a few hundred at a time. So yes it ends up to be the same rough price, but the dude who upgraded that Ruger generally learned alot more about what they need vs the guy who probably bought the DD and could be no well ahead of anyone else. It is a lot like a guy who buys a new BMW vs the guy who bought a 2002 civic. Chances are the driver with the civic knows how to take care of the car a bit more vs the BMW owner who might not. Just my thought.
while I have just bought quality before and probably will again. and I do love building things to my spec from the ground up.
Being issued a plain jane rifle I turned into a E3 again outfitting the gun to fit what I needed on the job while keeping that block 1 vibe. I dig it no nonsense user rifle that just runs like a kid after the ice cream truck
I am a believer in buy and modify, because I have yet to find any gun on the market that is built the way I would want it. there is always something that needs changed, whether it be a handguard, barrel, trigger, stock, grip, etc. I mean yeah! there are those I could buy that are good as they are, but eventually I would still change something..
I think the answer for me is "it depends". Out of your two options, the Daniel Defense for sure. However, I can build a great, duty grade rifle, minus optic, for under $1000. At that point the decision becomes harder. Do I save a ton of money and go for a build that I know has been put together well and with high quality parts and will be extremely rugged and reliable or do I go for a complete rifle that has a proven track record? Normally I go for the build.
My first AR was a matched Battle Arms Development receiver set that I ended up putting every high-end bell and whistle I could get for it. Ended up being over $5300 when all said and done. It's super light, a dream to shoot, and I love every part of it.
The sad thing is that now any rifle I build will always come in 2nd place at best, lol. Not nearly as much fun to build another rifle when you know it won't be better than what you already have.
My recent build was a BCA 10.5" 50 Beowulf upper, a PSA full lower, and Vortex Crossfire II scope. All black Friday deals, so ended up costing less than $580 for those three components. Added $300 or so in extras, and it's a blast.
I like building because you don't feel bad replacing parts as the tech gets better. If you want to keep a DD on top of its game, you'd end up replacing half the rifle in the next 10-15 years.
DD makes great rifles, but they don't have the best components out there. They do have great features, but I'd probably be more interested in starting with their receivers, and building up from there. I don't like paying for a name when there are better aftermarket options for the same price.
Well said all around sir.
I prefer buy and cry for the most part.
My Rifle was a BCM RECCE-14 13" MCMR Enhanced Lightweight MK2 BFH 14.5 with a pinned SureFire WarComp in 5.56x45mm. I had the upper add a BCM Gunfighter Bolt Carrier Group and a BCM Gunfighter Ambidextrous 4X4 charging handle. The backup sights are Troy Industry HK-style sights. The main optic is an EOTECH EXPS3-4 with G45 magnifier. The IR laser is an EOTECH PEQ15. The weaponlight is a SureFire Scout M622U mounted to a BCM 45-degree MLOK picatinny light mount. With a SureFire Tailcap attached to a Unity Tactical Taps Synch pressure pad for the weapon light and IR. I added a BCM rail covers, and BCM short vertical grip turned around for hand placement. I got a SureFire SOCOM556 Mini 2 suppressor. The lower was also BCM complete lower. I changed the trigger for a Geissele SSA-E trigger. Upgraded the safety selector to the BCM ambidextrous safety selector. The Sling is a BlueForce Gear Vickers 2-1 Padded swivel sling.
I also use primarily Lancer L5AWM smoke translucent mags in it loaded with Black Hills 77gr OTM ammo. The furniture on the lower is the BCM MOD3 pistol grip, and stock is a BCM MOD0 SOPMOD buttstock. This I the main Rifle I train with.
With building you gain the experience and knowledge. Thats priceless these days.
Aero lower, buffer tube with faxon barrel w\ superlative gas block, handguard, upper and magpul stock. Put a BCM trigger, but swapped with JP springs. All for around $1k. Runs fantastic.
I've bought, then modified two AR rifles to date. My first, like you, and I'm sure many others, an M4 clone that was quickly changed to a free float hand guard. Then the stock, trigger, optics, and so on. Then I built up one from parts alone. Bought the lower, the barrel, hand guard, bcg, optic, trigger, and a small amount of miscellaneous parts. I haven't done the buy once method yet, but my favorite by far is buy and modify. Being able to pick and choose is very satisfying. I like the parts build as well, but it just doesn't have as much character.
I am buy once, cry once. I had two AR that made from parts assemble together, despite the reputable brand name parts being used the tolerance stacking between difference manufacture is there. Not mentioning the surface finish is slightly differ as well.
However a KAC, LMT, DD, LWRC, Sig, Colt, etc their fit and finish is matching all the way across the board.
What parts specifically didn’t mesh well? The upper and outer frames themselves or internal things like the bcg? Thanks
@@jki808 the barrel extension feed ram and upper feed ram. They are not bad that could cause a malfunction, however they didn’t line up as other “off the shelves” rifle i owned.
I believe Daniel Defense makes all of their own stuff
I wouldn't buy a DD rifle or upper for that matter. But I do prefer to choose my uppers and build my lowers.
If should also be noted that a nitrided barrel will have a very long lifespan. I have seen full auto barrels with 24k+ by the time they need to be swapped. That being said I think it is nice to have a chrome lined option like what BCM, Geissle, Criterion, Centurion,and now Aero offers (there are some others of course). But it's not as if a nitrided barrel is a downgrade, and if anything, it has its own benefits. If you are dealing with a 416R barrel then you are going to see a reduced lifespan, but you can always send a barrel to be finished if you want the benefits that come with the nitriding process.
I got one of the cheapest complete M5 lowers from Aero Precision and it has the waffle stock, A2 grip, and a single sided safety. Now I hate the A2 grip it gives me blisters and the waffle stock just feels cheap so I'm waiting on Magpul replacements for those, but I actually like the single sided safety and the mil-spec trigger it came with about 5 or 6lbs and pretty short clean consistent break about half the distance on my Radical RF-15 in 5.56. I like the single sided safety more than the standard ambi safeties because when in fire mode the switch hits my hand and it's just uncomfortable until you put your finger on the trigger, it's really nice just not having it there, now I've never used one of the safeties with a slim profile on the right side but the safeties with the standard switch are just uncomfortable for me. You know I would rather buy and & cry but I just never have the budget for that I always end up buying & modifying because I spend a lot less at once because that's all I ever have if I could I would totally get the good stuff.
I bought my first AR Rifle a couple months ago, the 5.56 Diamondback DB15 with their black gold receiver. I love it as a starter but as I learn about it I plan to upgrade parts
That's a GREAT base rifle to start with. Good choice.
My Aero build is very similar to your Ruger. Same handguard, with Aero's M4E1 recievers, BCM charging handle, Toolcraft nitride BCG, Ballistic Advantage stainless steel barrel, an SL-S stock, SL grip, and for the trigger, I just polished the contact points and put some JP enhanced power springs in it. It weighs 6.8 pounds with red dot and Magpul BUIS.
I have a similar set of rifles, I have a DDM4V7, and a highly modified Savage MSR. I’m glad to know I’m not the only one who has done this. I love my Daniel, but I also have a soft spot for the Savage
Building from scratch is the way to go as long as you know what you want
Id go with the Ruger MPR 18 inch barrel rifle length gas system comes already upgraded from the factory comes with all the addons and is super accurate out past 300yds like clockwork
If you're gonna do any major modifications that'll take you away from the original. Your best off building from scratch that best fit what you want. There's always something that you'll want to modify on a factory rifle.
I bought a Type-A Contractor 14.5 special order with Kahles lpvo/offset 509t... and built an Aero/BCM with Geissele sd-c and charging handle, Magpul grip, b5 stock, Swampfox Arrowhead/offset Kingslayer. Will eventually get a better lpvo and red dot for it.
Which one is the better shooter?
@@J.Young808 the Type-A is top notch. Softest shooting I've ever had. But it's a 9 month wait because they don't make it til you order it lol. It's so tight you gotta take a punch to the takedown pins. Really a solid rifle. My build is solid too but there was some fu&* ups. I dented the threads on the buffer tube tightening the castle nut. Forgot to break the barrel in. The Accu-washer for the warcomp was confusing af. But it was an awesome learning exp.
I built an aero Precision and bought a noveske, and this is basically the same test as that. I sold the aero and love my noveske.
Pretty similar scenario, for sure.
Building all the way. You’ll get better with every mistake and if ever something breaks or doesn’t work properly, you will know whats going on and know how to fix it by yourself.
Right off the bat, take the build with the carbine length gas system and change the buffer system to an A5. It makes the recoil impulse so much smoother with the carbine gas system.
I guess it depends on what the purpose of your rifle is. I've built a ton from cheap/budget PSAs and aero precision up to bcm, noveske, Geissele, ADM, hodge and more.
I do like to wait for deals but on the higher end parts, quality parts from hodge and forward controls sell out very fast and I'll pay whatever it's listed at.
UTG is an extremely budget friendly company but I wouldn't consider their products durable. The heart of the gun is the bcg and barrel and for the 275 spent on the trigger, I would've gone to a sionics, MA or other quality bcg for closer to 200-250 and a larue(quality budget trigger). But yes the timney competition trigger is nice.
If it's a range toy, sure, just upgrade the trigger, safety selector, grip, and whatever else makes it more comfortable for you.
I bought a Diamondback AR 15 replaced the stock with BCM soap mod, changed the buffer spring and buffer to H2, charging handle to BCM Large gunfighter, gas block to a Geissele, and a 2 stage Geissele trigger and a BCM Comp. I’m hitting steel standing with no rest at 300 yards with ease no muzzle flip or ride my son got a Daniel my gun recoil impulse was less than the DD4 .
Or you just buy the MPR version with Rugers Elite trigger, a good Mlok hand guard already on it , the same buttstock you have already installed , and a Rifle length gas system. For 750.
Do that comparison because it eliminates a lot of your expenses on the Ruger you got.
I had the MPR and sold it, it shot nice and smooth with some ammo and wouldn’t reliably cycle others until I swapped out the bcg for a BCM bcg and then it ran 100% reliable. You can tell where they saved money making that rifle.
@@brentflowers7612 I think I’ll swap mine out instead of buying another rifle.
@@brentflowers7612 My only point here is that he spent so much money and time putting parts on the standard Ruger that the MPR already has for like 200 more if that. That’s the comparison that should be done. He basically spent way more money turning his rifle into the MPR …..I don’t recall if the bolt was replaced in this video but as you stated that’s basically the one thing I’d replace aside from the stock charging handle.
@@MrProfchaos71 very true, once I replaced my BCG, the rifle was actually pretty awesome.
@@MrProfchaos71 honestly, once I swapped mine out it would feed every type of ammo I sent through. From Tula steel case to many different brass cased.
With the cost of rifles "out of the box" nowadays, I prefer to build (well- more like assemble). At the end, you get EXACTLY what you want. I found that the options I wanted simply weren't offered on one rifle. It would make no sense to buy a rifle then basically remove everything and replace it.
Well said. The amount of money I wasted learning from the ruger makes me wanna kick myself in the dick.
@@dadbodoperator2466 should have started with the Ruger MPR it's the upgraded variant comes with all the add-ons factory you added on to the ar556
My first AR purchase is the Del-Ton Sport. Great gun and never had any problems. Then I purchased the DDM4V7 which is also great. I love both. No modifications. Kept both straight out of the box.
Nice. I was looking at a del-ton when I bought the ruger.
Daniel Defense. I don't have the time o r skills to do what you did to the Ruger.
The barrel is the most important part of the AR, in my opinion. So I’d go with the DD.
Bro. I almost built your Ruger from a complete lower. I wanted a 16" chrome lined 4150 CHF, with a Ruger Eagle on it, for 3 gun matches out to 400yds. So I found a screaming deal on the barrel (because it's carbine length), and put it in an Aero receiver and handguard. Timney single stage trigger. Nickle BCG. The rest is built around 3 gun with a latchless charging handle, huge magazine release, V3 ambi bolt release, 45° ambi safety, insanely loud SJC Titan comp.
I appreciate your 1x to 3× optics rather than cranking an LPVO lever. There's no time for cranking. But a 2nd optic on the rifle would put me in the open division. And I need a little more than 3x for punching the center out of clays at 400rds. And taking my hand off the handguard would cost time. So I run a 1-6x, only at 6x, and 45° fiber optic irons for everything inside of 100yds. I'm in it $1800 with the sling.
Very cool man!
I’d buy the Daniel Defense.
I enjoy building mine. I have a plan before i start so no wasted $. I do have a few expensive AR's but i shoot my builds a lot more.
Buy an upper and lower matched receiver set and build everything else out. Really is the best way to get Top Shelf components at bargain prices.
The Ruger as it is now would be my choice, I'm not totally a name brand snob. I would have a different set up for my person, I like pistol grips K2+ and minimalist stocks. I say either will last you the duration of any fight.
I'm REALLY tempted to pick up a Ruger SFAR....16 or 20 in barrel is what's im thinking about... I like Ruger pretty good....the 16in is awful light to be chambered in 308 with that gas system, I'm thinking 20in barrel would be the better choice... not overly concerned about recoil but it's something to think about
@@nicke1903 20 inch is the way to go the 16 inch has had nothing but issues from the gas system and it's reliability to different ammos
I had a Ruger with the mlok rail got a sig m400 tread . Working on my LWRCI m6 ic di now just got to get a surefire scout or something similar. Love that rifle though. Enjoy the ambi lower and the fluted barrel just looks good and the rail is solid almost monolithic. No screws for the gas key. It's a good value in my opinion. DD makes excellent rifles though. I also never had a problem with the Ruger but didn't have it long. SSL . Squirrel 🐿️
I did the same with my 1st AR. Spent $ on affordable upgrades only to realize I still wasn’t satisfied b4 spending on high-end parts. Did the same when I got into building, being at awe with Gucci competition parts b4 realizing quality duty parts are what I needed in my preps. You live & learn, but it’s an expensive lesson.
The upgraded Ruger Ar-556 MPR is about $60 more & comes with the upgraded Magpul stock & grip that you bought. As well, it comes with some of your other upgrades: free floated hand rail (no A2 front site post / gas block - which caused most of your headaches), an upgraded trigger, and ambi safety.
Do you feel that had you started off with the upgraded MPR for only $60 more, and then upgraded, this would've been a much better way to go?
Both are great rifles. The Ruger MPR is pretty nice. The DDM4V7 is sweet.
Never buy and modify. Either buy a factory rifle that's what you want it to be out of the box, or build your own from scratch.
"Never"
reason I own 2 DD ARs. THE rifle I would trust no matter what. Triggers were not bad but I did add the Geiselle combat flat trigger. plus if anything goes with the DD it is replaced no matter if you are original owner or 3rd. Warranty still applies. As long as gun exists. BCG wears out- replaced-- Barrel- Replaced etc you get it. best Warranty in the business.
Agree. Daniel Defenses warranty is off the chain for sure.
I just got a Geissele Super Duty a few weeks ago. My first AR was the Springfield Saint Victor B5 and I wanted something better and more reliable. Buy the best rifle you can afford to start with!
Did a very similar thing to my smith and wesson m&p 15, shoots great and idk if I would trade it for anything
I’ve done it all lol. My first AR was a DDM4V7, then a Zav core elite .300 blk. Now I’m building a SOLGW/FCD lower piece by piece. Learning a lot doing it.
I bet. I've gotta get into building. Just don't have the time.
“Does that mean buying a DD right out of the box is better?”
Yes, yes it does. Every single time. Except knights armament. I’d take the knights. A Ruger with aero jewelry is just a Ruger with aero jewelry.
^^^^ That ^^^^
Waited to find the Colt 6940, and just changed some "non functional" parts or "cloths". Slap a few accessories on and love it.
I built my rifle 7 years ago exactly the way I wanted it from a stripped lower and I haven't messed with it since. Build once cry once.
Obviously this depends on the situation.
1) Have a functional rifle first.
Check: DPMS AR15, it runs, holds a 2" group from first to last shot even after 3 mag dumps @ 100yrds. Installed freefloat hand guard, groups closed up to 1.5".
2) Built a 6.5 Grendel. Initial cost ~$1K. Includes optic and bipod and LaRue MBT2 trigger. 20" HBAR, BCA barrel, BCA Bolt carrier group, free floated handguad. Vortex Diamondback 6-24X50 Tactical Scope. Result: 2" groups @ 100yds. Have tried many load recipes with no change. Replaced barrel with Faxon Heavy Fluted 20" Match, installed a Ultrdyne Apollo Max muzzle break. Result: 3/4" group @ 100yds.
Total parts cost? About $1300, the education was priceless.
I tinker all the time, but I had a blast building this rifle. Now I'm really enjoying finding my limits with it. I met and friended a competition shooter at the range. Invited them to try my rifle, they shot a 3 round clover leaf group @ 100yds, then told me "That's a shooter!". This was the first rounds this person shot from my rifle. I'm not saying this thing is ready for combat, I do believe with a little more practice I have my new dear rifle.
Correct me if I am wrong but I believe DD makes all its components in-house so you should take into account the upper and lower's in that regard.
I think they finish the uppers and lowers in house, but they don't actually forge the components from raw metal. I could be wrong tho.
@@dadbodoperator2466 Ah you are probably right.
I would prefer modifying, because at the end of the day, I only need a couple more pieces to assemble the original rifle that can be used as a beater rifle or a loaner.
I bought an LWRCi M6IC DI in burnt bronze with all their furniture. Wish I went with something lighter
I built up a PSA lower to mount my BCM 300 BO upper
I built out a WMD matched set and then I changed out my upper for a lightweight built aero upper, built up by my local gunsmith.
I have a Wilson Combat blem stripped lower that I’m contemplating on what to build.
I’ve also been waiting 2.5 years for a San Tan Tactical billet matched set to be built into a 6ARC.
Daniel Defense absolutely makes their own uppers and lowers in fact they make everything on their rifles in house .
My dad gave me a 1000$ AR. Messed around for 2.5 years then built one for about 1.5k and it's amazing
When I got a rail for my Ruger AR556, the original barrel nut was a nightmare to remove. Needed tons of heat and when it was finally off, there was some kind of black goo which seemed like version of loctite.
It was probably a form of anti seize, they likely tourqed it to much. The goo is normal though 👍
Plus itz fun to figure it out and modify to make it more personal!❤
Rail grip panels by Magpul ( heat shields). VERY Beautiful build's ! !
I have done all of these. My ddm4 v7 I also upgraded trigger to giessele sde radian raptor charger Wilson combat bolt carrier. As will as sure fire 3 prong. I like nice things tho. Forgot about radian 45 degree selector and extended mag release and Wilson combat forward grip. Trij acog 4x and cloud defense light
I spent waaaay too much modifying my ruger. Swapped the barrel out for a midlength gas system even smh. It's been an experience for sure but now I know what I prefer in terms of parts and the setup.
Wow, you even changed gas system lengths. You win. Lol
@@dadbodoperator2466 Yeah, learned my lesson though. I've reconfigured it like 3 times before I found what works for me. I could've bought DD or LMT by now.
Great video. Start with a moderate PSA and you will be much better off with less modification needed.
People that have PSA's seem to love em.
Congrats on the UA-cam accomplishments!
Really appreciate that sir. It's been a year and a half of grinding, but its been fun, and worth the time.
Buy and cry. Just get the one you want. Building it is just as much if one uses good parts. Daniels makes a great rifle. The only thing i woud change on a DD is the pistol grip. To skinny for my hands.
1. Build
2. Buy
3. Mod
Because range toys are a thing.
4140 is fine for Semiautomatic! All the Fancy was for full auto and if you get a treated barrel nitride does well.
Haha just came across your channel your delivery is spot on. I did a video on my channel on the ar556 that was issued by my dept and mods I did. Well done my man you got a sub from me
Really appreciate it man. I'm glad to know you likd the video. I'll try to keep making them better each time.
For me it's "buy & modify" for the simple reason you KNOW your gear better and the enjoyment of tinkering.
I bought the same DD and still modified it, the trigger was the first thing to go but I also got my DD for $1400 new
New subscriber supporting my fellow content creators for the algorithm... Great video. Love the Ruger
Hey, thanks brotha! I'll have to check out your channel too!
Daniels does make their own uppers and receivers.
I like to build out. I have just as much fun working on my babies as I do shooting them
I prefer to build, because I know what I prefer, what is quality and what is not, etc. That said, I spent almost $6k combined on my last two AR builds. Not proud of that, just saying, different strokes for different folks.
In your case I would buy the DD vs. the Ruger. For me, my first rifle was a DD. I changed the trigger, muzzle device and charging handle. Since then I’ve built all of my other rifles from scratch. I love building my own as I can build exactly what I want and it’s produced some pretty cool guns.
Thinking about a DD as my first. Any regrets looking back on it?
@@seanroberts381 None at all, it’s a great rifle. But…it’s not the smoothest shooting rifle, it’s not the lightest rifle, it’s not the shortest “16 inch” rifle you can get. It’s a great multi-purpose rifle that is well built from quality components and designs. It works. If I was to buy a new one of that cost I would consider the Sig Spear LT. That rifle has a lot more newer tech in it and is truly ambi which is great even for right handed people.
It's a great rifle. It could spoil you for other rifles if it's your first rifle tho.
@@seanroberts381 I have a pair of DD uppers. One sitting on an aero lower, the other waiting for an ADAC lower to get SBRed. The only regrets I could see with a factory DD is the lower and the furniture is average, you're probably going to be replacing a decent amount. Other issues are pinned and welded proprietary A2 birdcage being hot garbage on all their 14.5 offerings. It's just a far better option to buy their upper and pair it with an aero lower if you want to save a bit, or a radian if you want full ambi controls. I honestly think ADM is a better option if you want a factory gun and don't want to pay those top tier premium prices. You're getting a geissele g2s trigger, surefire warcomp, radian charging handle and ambi safety out of the box.
I've never had an AR that came near to how I wanted. The InRange WWSD & some of SOLGW have come close. My OCD about every single component makes me a build guy. If you can come close; buy and modify makes sense. I've never seen a gear head love a stock car, they can always tweek: and gun people are no different.
4140 steel is fine, geissele uses 4140 cold hammer forged barrels so it really matters more who made the barrel and how it is finished than whether it is 4140 or 4150
Daniel Defense doesn’t source out anything please get that straight. Everything is made in house
DD does not Forge their own uppers and Lowers. They do everything else IIRC.
@@Clockwork0nions no way
@@SoldierBoii47 yeah, there are only 4 forges that make upper and lower blanks 😆
@@Clockwork0nions thank you for informing me 🙏 lol I honestly did not know
Rugers barrels are nitrited which make their surface really hard. I actually question if there is a noticeable difference in barrel life between 4140 & 4150 considering this.
I'd still go 4150 as it's known industry wide to be a superior steel. I couldnt tell you why tho.
they do manufacture their uppers and lowers. they just dont forge them. they get the forgings and machine them their selves. there is a big difference in what company machines them because that where u get good speced lowers and uppers from. holding tight tolerances so u have no wiggle between uppers and lowers. same with bcg and other components. then they like all other top tier manufacturers will sell the out of spec parts to places like psa so they can say u get a toolcraft bcg for 70 bucks. why? because a quality builder sent it back cause it wasnt in spec. thats the difference from companies like dd, geissele, lmt, kac, and so on.there is a big difference in quality, just because they didnt forge it doesnt mean they didnt manufacture it. thats what those multi million dollar 9 axis cnc machines are for.
I definitely should've been more specific on my statement. The don't forget, the finish. Good catch.
Love this video all the awesome points you make. Great job man! Keep ‘em coming!
Thanks my friend. I'm glad you're enjoying the content!