Always learn a lot about boating from your channel. Your persistence is admirable. Hopefully someday, (if Bitcoin goes to a million) we can buy a boat and travel when we retire.....or have a place to drink, hangout, and sleep over on the weekends while we are still working and saving up for retirement.
Kev, use a zip tie about half way down on the impeller to hold the fins bent in place, then once its half way in the housing you cut off the zip tie and push the rest of the way in. But your way works too….. 😃
Thanks for sharing Kevin. I changed my oil, filter, and fuel separators last fall at layup. I Didn’t get to the impellers yet, so glad to see your procedure. I expect a few tools to drop in the bilge as always, and a few bloody knuckles too! My 454’s are mercs so will be interesting to see if harder or easier than your crusaders.
@@waterwethinking1142 Forgot to mention, I see there is a 55’ Neptunis for sale in Chicago on Boat Trader. Are they worth consideration? Built as good or better than Carver? I could use the 3rd stateroom and diesels would be nice!
The 18-7944 is the short filter. -7945 is longer and holds more water. Same head, same micron. (I have crappy gas). Parts store sells new half moon keys. Mine were worn and kept falling out.
Thanks for the tip on the taller filter, seems our tanks are pretty clean. However I changed the filters before I started the engines for the first time this spring. I should check them again since they've been run a couple hours and make sure they didn't pick up any condensation from the winter. I'll get new keys next time I think, it is definitely worth the couple bucks they cost.
Great video, thanks for sharing. Could you unbolt the oil filter housing and reposition it so that the filter fits vertically? It would make changing the filter a much less messy situation. It should work vertically as that is how they are installed on a truck engine.
It probably would work fine and be a lot easier, my thought though is not to mess up the ideas that engineers much smarter than me had about the design. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve modded some cars in my lifetime but I’m not sure I want to start messing with lubrication.
Great video I certainly could have used it two weeks ago. For the life of me I could not find anything on how to change the impeller on our type of Crusader. I did find out though that you do not have to remove that pulley but if you take off the pump to engine hose you can lift up the whole pump on top of the engine it's a lot easier to work on the impeller. I had the same blue hose which is clearly original So I sacrificed that to be able to do it but now I have a nice flexible rubber hose. ps use dish soap to get the impeller in
@@waterwethinking1142 maybe that would have been easier. My upside down bolts, trying to get those in the socket keep slipping off, and my arm hitting the corner of the floorboard made my arm look like I got attacked by 300 German Shepherds!
🔥 If your heater is not ignition protected it should not be in the engine space with gas motors🔥 My previous boat was a 1993 Carver42 aft cabin with 454's. Great boat. I keep it in the water year around on a big lake in North Idaho. Every fall I had it totally shrink wrapped and winterized. I keep a 600 watt Xtreme heater in the engine room. The heater turns on at 38 degrees and off at 52. Military grade. Of course they are ignition protected.
1. It doesn’t matter what way the impeller vanes are positioned. They will flop the right way the instant the engine starts. 2. Don’t use petroleum based lubricants on impellers. The rubber is not compatible with oil and it softens them and swells them. Use impeller lube or water based lube or dish soap. 3. After winter or impeller change, look at the exhaust for water flow right away. No flow after 1 minute, something is wrong, shut it down and investigate. You can burn your exhaust hoses before you see overheat on your gauge. 4. Lubricate fuel filter gaskets with engine oil prior to installation. 5. Looks like your water pump bracket was loose on the port engine, hope you tightened it.
@@waterwethinking1142 I do the same thing when working on cars! One time I ran out of time so caved and towed it to the dealer gave them all the parts individually card labeled with numbered for correct placement (drive shafts so balance was important). And they were so happy thye still mention it years later lol.
Point taken. I'll clean it out and try a different solution next time. I understand the rubber-petroleum softening. I have that problem with rubbers sometimes too.
Always learn a lot about boating from your channel. Your persistence is admirable. Hopefully someday, (if Bitcoin goes to a million) we can buy a boat and travel when we retire.....or have a place to drink, hangout, and sleep over on the weekends while we are still working and saving up for retirement.
Man, don't even start with the bitcoin, that is a whole (depressing) story for another day.
West Marine oil is made by Starbrite and their oil is rated 4 out 5 stars so probably a solid choice my man!
Hey, 4/5 is pretty good. I'll take it.
Kev, use a zip tie about half way down on the impeller to hold the fins bent in place, then once its half way in the housing you cut off the zip tie and push the rest of the way in. But your way works too….. 😃
I knew there must be a better way, thanks!
Thanks for sharing Kevin. I changed my oil, filter, and fuel separators last fall at layup. I Didn’t get to the impellers yet, so glad to see your procedure. I expect a few tools to drop in the bilge as always, and a few bloody knuckles too! My 454’s are mercs so will be interesting to see if harder or easier than your crusaders.
My knuckles seem to be bloodier than they should be lately.
@@waterwethinking1142 Forgot to mention, I see there is a 55’ Neptunis for sale in Chicago on Boat Trader. Are they worth consideration? Built as good or better than Carver? I could use the 3rd stateroom and diesels would be nice!
@@brianl9533 I’d certainly look at it. My experience is that the Neptunis is well built.
use a zip tie around the impeller and some liquid dish soap - no petroleum products
Very good point.
The 18-7944 is the short filter. -7945 is longer and holds more water. Same head, same micron. (I have crappy gas). Parts store sells new half moon keys. Mine were worn and kept falling out.
Thanks for the tip on the taller filter, seems our tanks are pretty clean. However I changed the filters before I started the engines for the first time this spring. I should check them again since they've been run a couple hours and make sure they didn't pick up any condensation from the winter. I'll get new keys next time I think, it is definitely worth the couple bucks they cost.
Great video, thanks for sharing. Could you unbolt the oil filter housing and reposition it so that the filter fits vertically? It would make changing the filter a much less messy situation. It should work vertically as that is how they are installed on a truck engine.
It probably would work fine and be a lot easier, my thought though is not to mess up the ideas that engineers much smarter than me had about the design. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve modded some cars in my lifetime but I’m not sure I want to start messing with lubrication.
Great video I certainly could have used it two weeks ago. For the life of me I could not find anything on how to change the impeller on our type of Crusader. I did find out though that you do not have to remove that pulley but if you take off the pump to engine hose you can lift up the whole pump on top of the engine it's a lot easier to work on the impeller. I had the same blue hose which is clearly original So I sacrificed that to be able to do it but now I have a nice flexible rubber hose. ps use dish soap to get the impeller in
I removed that pulley for better access, the other one is easy without taking the pulley off. Thanks!
@@waterwethinking1142 maybe that would have been easier. My upside down bolts, trying to get those in the socket keep slipping off, and my arm hitting the corner of the floorboard made my arm look like I got attacked by 300 German Shepherds!
@@DoorCountyScott Yes, but isn't boat life fun?!
Lol, that fuel is pristine, you should have seen my fuel the 1st year I had my boat, was brown.
I'm very good about adding Sta-bil Marine ethanol stabilizer, I guess it works!
🔥 If your heater is not ignition protected it should not be in the engine space with gas motors🔥 My previous boat was a 1993 Carver42 aft cabin with 454's. Great boat. I keep it in the water year around on a big lake in North Idaho. Every fall I had it totally shrink wrapped and winterized. I keep a 600 watt Xtreme heater in the engine room. The heater turns on at 38 degrees and off at 52. Military grade. Of course they are ignition protected.
I totally agree I should use a rated heater, but 600W isn't enough to keep it warm in the engine room on my boat.
1. It doesn’t matter what way the impeller vanes are positioned. They will flop the right way the instant the engine starts. 2. Don’t use petroleum based lubricants on impellers. The rubber is not compatible with oil and it softens them and swells them. Use impeller lube or water based lube or dish soap. 3. After winter or impeller change, look at the exhaust for water flow right away. No flow after 1 minute, something is wrong, shut it down and investigate. You can burn your exhaust hoses before you see overheat on your gauge. 4. Lubricate fuel filter gaskets with engine oil prior to installation. 5. Looks like your water pump bracket was loose on the port engine, hope you tightened it.
Great tips, thanks.
Try a zip tie around it to start it then cut it off.
I'll try that next year, thanks!
I always like to take pictures of things I'm working on because 100% i'll forget how it all went back together.
Great idea, I’m partial to lots of labeled plastic bags for screws and bolts. But this was pretty easy, other than the stupid key!
@@waterwethinking1142 I do the same thing when working on cars! One time I ran out of time so caved and towed it to the dealer gave them all the parts individually card labeled with numbered for correct placement (drive shafts so balance was important). And they were so happy thye still mention it years later lol.
In 4 years i'm gonna be ripping bongs in the boat next to you and doing this same shit.
Bring it on!
Crazy that you leave the boat in the winter. Do you have any heat in the engine room to keep them from freezing?
Yes we winterize the engines and generator just in case, but we keep a heater in the engine room set at about 55°F to keep it reasonably warm.
What oil did you use in engines.
Straight 40 weight only, no blends.
That damn key is a pain inthe a#%.
Yes, yes it is.
never use that old one as a spare it is deformed and after drying out it will fail instantly
As an emergency fix to get us back to the harbor I'll hold on to it.
don’t use vaseline !!! and change the oil in the fall not the spring
Point taken. I'll clean it out and try a different solution next time. I understand the rubber-petroleum softening. I have that problem with rubbers sometimes too.