You are welcome Vince. It feels good to get over this hump and move forward that is for sure. Make sure you send pics of the car all put back together and done.
Hey Mark, nice prep work on the doors and fenders, you must be very happy finally getting everything into epoxy! I picked up one of those burnishing tools from Harbour Freight and made very short work getting multiple layers of paint and primer off my 57, does an amazing job. Thanks for the video, always appreciate all the tips. Have a great weekend Mark!
Thanks Ray and yes it feels good getting everything protected. Just started raining here last night so just in time! Yes the surface conditioning tool works great for a lot of uses. I haven't done much paint removal with it but for metal prep it works awesome.
Really enjoyed the video Mark! It’s a relief to get all the sheet metal coated. Your dry climate has been a big help for sure. Because of our wet climate I had to hustle to get things coated before I got a lot of my patch panel and dent removal work completed. Now I’m in the middle of that. The rear doors are closing (but the alignment isn’t right yet) for the first time in decades. I’ll send some photos. Thanks again for the quality work and videos.
Thanks Robert Yes we are very lucky here as far as weather goes. Been raining for 3 days which is needed but is sucky. Many shops do it exactly like you are, get the metal prepped and in epoxy and then do patch panels and sheet metal work. On the old cars and trucks bending hinges was often the "adjustment" method. Kind of scary but it does work when other methods do not. Nothing more satisfying as a nice closing door.
I didn’t know that bending the hinges was an “accepted” method of adjustment. I may need to put some heat on two of these to get last bit of adjusting done. I’m also glad to hear that other guys are doing things the way I was forced to do them. I’m working alone with only my UA-cam advisors to help out! Appreciate the great info.
@@robertmazzei2412 The hinge adjustment is in the service manual. They employ 2x4s for hood adjustment and bending door hinges, just kept it simple back then.
@@robertmazzei2412 I replied to you on this but it didn't post... It is in the service manual on adjusting the doors. They have 2x4's under the hood and pushing the hood down for adjustment and all kinds of old school "acceptable methods". Of course those are more of a last resort kind of thing but you have to do what you have to do. Back in 49 if the doors closed and stayed closed it was good enough but of course we want way better than that.
Hey mark as usual the attention to the things normally overlooked is incredible seem some things i havent thought about but glad you did i will be doing some of these now i have so.ething similiar to hang my doors but the stand for the fenders i have not seen before going to make something like that with wheels thanks for the ideas look forward to next video
@@chriskappes9170 Thanks Chris. I have been doing this a long time so I eventually figured out some pretty good ways for part holding. How is your project going?
Wow, you got a lot done. Do you think it's important to have the parts hanging in their proper orientation when you spray them? Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks. The days are getting shorter so there was some urgency to get it all sprayed and the car rolled back inside so I pushed pretty hard. The orientation for me is what gives me best access or visibility with anything except color and clear. If you are spraying anything other than a solid color it is always best to position your parts the way the are installed just in case. Some of the newer colors are very finicky about which direction the light hits them.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication We got our first snow today. My primary color is "The Restoration Shop" Firethorn Red Pearl. The same as the engine pictures I sent you. Some have said my truck and parts need to be in the proper orientation when spraying the red base coat. My fenders and visor will be Jet Black. All my window and body trims, interior dash and bumpers are stainless steel. Original refurbished heavy chrome grill.
@@lazyhoundracing9621 You picked a tricky color. I am not familiar with that color, is it 2 or 3 stage on the color? Some have a base, then the red then the pearl. Either way yes have the doors, cab and bed oriented just like they will be installed. You might want to consider spraying the base coat on the doors installed on the cab then pull them to spray the clear. You can pre spray the jambs and door inside for good coverage let them flash off and install them to spray the outside of everything. You can do it all in pieces but the chances of the doors looking different than the cab where they meet are higher with colors like yours. Remind me when you get closer and we can discuss control coats and pre spraying at length. 74 here today, right after I spray the epoxy.... typical.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication It's just a base, clear. Supposedly chips can be touched up. I think your right about the doors and even the hood being on. Something about gravity and the metallic and pearl. There's no reason not to. I haven't decided if the interior should be red or black. I have an electric A/C compressor from down under with a hortazontal mount remote condenser and Spal fan. I have the "Old Air" inside kit. I can cool the truck down or keep it cool without starting it so black shouldn't be that bad. I'm a long way from that. We can get into it then. My goal this winter is the chassis. I bought a nice Rouge Fab bender with all the standard dies and their notcher. I'm using donor frame rails that I will mirror and use to box the frame. I already filled the over 100 holes in them. My plan is to interlock them, cut the top and bottom and weld them together. I think it will give me a factory look. Sorry so long winded.
@@lazyhoundracing9621 No worries. A lot of the new colors don't match well when you try and dab in a chip, they want to be sprayed to match. On super heavy metallics we used to bond the car body so static wouldn't build up and cause the flake to stand up. That was a long time ago and I am sure the flake used now is not susceptible to such things. I need to get to work on my chassis as well. Have to have something to put the body on so I can block out correctly. Sounds like a nice winter project.
Coming along nicely, Mark! Bet you're happy now. What angle grinder or buffer are you using? Do you have a link? I need to get a variable speed grinder for running those wire wheels.
Thanks Doug. I am using an old polisher that tends to smoke a lot when I am polishing a car but seems to work okay at higher speeds. It is just a cheap Harbor Freight one like this: www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-7-in-variable-speed-rotary-polishersander-70589.html The high speed wire wheels do just fine on the fastest speed but if you put them on a grinder they don't last long.
Great to see so much progress. After you do your filler and blocking, that car will be dead-on straight. What are your thoughts on spraying over epoxy? I've heard lots of different opinions. I set myself back a little. After installing the motor and trans, I decided I really should rewire the car. I just stated yesterday installing the 64-67 GTO American Autowire Classic Upgrade Kit.
Thanks Ron. I certainly hope Ruby comes out super straight, if not I will just keep redoing her until she is. I talked to the paint rep about using the epoxy all the way to the top and spraying the base coat right on the epoxy. His recommendation is there is no better way since the epoxy is more stable and adheres to itself better than anything else. Cost is usually the factor since it is more expensive than polyester or urethanes. The older epoxies didn't sand or fill all that well but the stuff I am using does both very well. What do you think of that kit? I am planning out the wiring right now and will have several relays in my setup so I am looking around and very open to suggestions.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Hi Mark, I guess I may have old info on epoxies. I've heard everything from a 7-day window to it has to be sanded again. As I mentioned, I just got started on the wiring install. These wiring kits are designed car specific, however they include a new fuse block (had to open the stock hole slightly) with modern style fuses and are engineered to accept all the most popular updates. They prewire some of the main assemblies, so they just plug into the harness. Such as the dash, it can be wired on the bench and then plugged into the harness. They're set up for HEI ignition, one wire alternator and have an accessory connection for multiple extra circuits. They come with a new ignition and headlight switch and plenty of extra wire length for custom routing. So far, the instructions seem pretty good, and I think it's going to work out great.
@@RonWatson-b6u Things change frequently in the auto paint industry so it is easy to fall behind. The epoxy I am using says it can be recoated up to so many days but I NEVER do anything like that anymore. There were systems that were wet on wet meaning you sprayed them, waited till they flashed and then sprayed the color on top. The timing is critical and it is to easy to introduce flaws. The epoxy will be sanded to 600 or 800 hundred before the base coat is applied with plenty of time to outgas in-between. Allowing your material to outgas and shrink is key to a perfect final finish. Thanks for the info.
I’ve never understood why people get fussy about dust in their epoxy. There will be filler, high build primer , etc. going over it and plenty of block sanding. Any dust won’t matter one bit.
@@T3glider The only time I fuss over bugs or dirt is on the base coat/clear coat but you should always tack off before spraying, just blowing off never removes all the dust which could lead to reduced adhesion.
That is who I took the car to, Metal Works in Eugene. Bo and his crew were awesome to work with and did a wonderful job on my GTO. It was a long haul but Bo worked with me and even let me leave my trailer in their yard while I went off to visit a good friend in Idaho while I was waiting for the process to be completed. Give him a call and see how far out they are. I had to wait about 12 weeks before they could get me in. You won't regret getting the car dipped, best decision I made on the whole project.
Glad you liked it. Why would I pull the trigger and wave the gun around like I was spraying a control coat? Just wasteful and puts more epoxy on the ground instead of the panel.
All respect and sincerity, not just trying to poop on your birthday cake. If you have a 4' panel why wouldn't you just do it in one pass? You wouldn't use more paint as you wouldn't have double coverage in the middle where you have to rewet it.
@@wolfhobbies No worries. I was focused on coverage of the epoxy not speed. The area I sprayed first I wanted a little more build because it needs it. Spraying epoxy or urethane or any heavy bodied material coverage and build is what I focus on. Just saw an Eastwood video of a guy using a roller on a fender laying down urethane primer I think. It did the trick and he blocked it out but I think I will stick to a spray gun even with my rookie skills. 😁
Quality takes time and patience😊
Thanks Paul. Luckily I have way more patience than when I was a youngster.
Mark, looks great in epoxy! Thanks for posting my project pics at the end of this video, very cool seeing it on UA-cam.
You are welcome Vince. It feels good to get over this hump and move forward that is for sure. Make sure you send pics of the car all put back together and done.
Great progress, Ruby is looking better each time you share the updates!
Thanks Charlie. Pretty big step, now it's time to get dusty.
Si Señor
Major milestone. Congratulations Mark.
Thanks
Gracias, Jack. Sí, es un gran logro. Me alegro de haberlo logrado.
I only speak pequeña of Spanish, have to use Google translate 😁
Hey Mark, nice prep work on the doors and fenders, you must be very happy finally getting everything into epoxy! I picked up one of those burnishing tools from Harbour Freight and made very short work getting multiple layers of paint and primer off my 57, does an amazing job. Thanks for the video, always appreciate all the tips. Have a great weekend Mark!
Thanks Ray and yes it feels good getting everything protected. Just started raining here last night so just in time!
Yes the surface conditioning tool works great for a lot of uses. I haven't done much paint removal with it but for metal prep it works awesome.
Really enjoyed the video Mark! It’s a relief to get all the sheet metal coated. Your dry climate has been a big help for sure.
Because of our wet climate I had to hustle to get things coated before I got a lot of my patch panel and dent removal work completed. Now I’m in the middle of that. The rear doors are closing (but the alignment isn’t right yet) for the first time in decades. I’ll send some photos.
Thanks again for the quality work and videos.
Thanks Robert
Yes we are very lucky here as far as weather goes. Been raining for 3 days which is needed but is sucky.
Many shops do it exactly like you are, get the metal prepped and in epoxy and then do patch panels and sheet metal work.
On the old cars and trucks bending hinges was often the "adjustment" method. Kind of scary but it does work when other methods do not. Nothing more satisfying as a nice closing door.
I didn’t know that bending the hinges was an “accepted” method of adjustment. I may need to put some heat on two of these to get last bit of adjusting done. I’m also glad to hear that other guys are doing things the way I was forced to do them. I’m working alone with only my UA-cam advisors to help out! Appreciate the great info.
@@robertmazzei2412 The hinge adjustment is in the service manual. They employ 2x4s for hood adjustment and bending door hinges, just kept it simple back then.
@@robertmazzei2412 I replied to you on this but it didn't post...
It is in the service manual on adjusting the doors. They have 2x4's under the hood and pushing the hood down for adjustment and all kinds of old school "acceptable methods". Of course those are more of a last resort kind of thing but you have to do what you have to do. Back in 49 if the doors closed and stayed closed it was good enough but of course we want way better than that.
Hey mark as usual the attention to the things normally overlooked is incredible seem some things i havent thought about but glad you did i will be doing some of these now i have so.ething similiar to hang my doors but the stand for the fenders i have not seen before going to make something like that with wheels thanks for the ideas look forward to next video
@@chriskappes9170 Thanks Chris. I have been doing this a long time so I eventually figured out some pretty good ways for part holding.
How is your project going?
Wow, you got a lot done. Do you think it's important to have the parts hanging in their proper orientation when you spray them? Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks. The days are getting shorter so there was some urgency to get it all sprayed and the car rolled back inside so I pushed pretty hard. The orientation for me is what gives me best access or visibility with anything except color and clear. If you are spraying anything other than a solid color it is always best to position your parts the way the are installed just in case. Some of the newer colors are very finicky about which direction the light hits them.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication We got our first snow today. My primary color is "The Restoration Shop" Firethorn Red Pearl. The same as the engine pictures I sent you. Some have said my truck and parts need to be in the proper orientation when spraying the red base coat. My fenders and visor will be Jet Black. All my window and body trims, interior dash and bumpers are stainless steel. Original refurbished heavy chrome grill.
@@lazyhoundracing9621 You picked a tricky color. I am not familiar with that color, is it 2 or 3 stage on the color? Some have a base, then the red then the pearl.
Either way yes have the doors, cab and bed oriented just like they will be installed. You might want to consider spraying the base coat on the doors installed on the cab then pull them to spray the clear. You can pre spray the jambs and door inside for good coverage let them flash off and install them to spray the outside of everything.
You can do it all in pieces but the chances of the doors looking different than the cab where they meet are higher with colors like yours.
Remind me when you get closer and we can discuss control coats and pre spraying at length.
74 here today, right after I spray the epoxy.... typical.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication It's just a base, clear. Supposedly chips can be touched up. I think your right about the doors and even the hood being on. Something about gravity and the metallic and pearl. There's no reason not to. I haven't decided if the interior should be red or black. I have an electric A/C compressor from down under with a hortazontal mount remote condenser and Spal fan. I have the "Old Air" inside kit. I can cool the truck down or keep it cool without starting it so black shouldn't be that bad. I'm a long way from that. We can get into it then. My goal this winter is the chassis. I bought a nice Rouge Fab bender with all the standard dies and their notcher. I'm using donor frame rails that I will mirror and use to box the frame. I already filled the over 100 holes in them. My plan is to interlock them, cut the top and bottom and weld them together. I think it will give me a factory look. Sorry so long winded.
@@lazyhoundracing9621 No worries. A lot of the new colors don't match well when you try and dab in a chip, they want to be sprayed to match. On super heavy metallics we used to bond the car body so static wouldn't build up and cause the flake to stand up. That was a long time ago and I am sure the flake used now is not susceptible to such things.
I need to get to work on my chassis as well. Have to have something to put the body on so I can block out correctly.
Sounds like a nice winter project.
Coming along nicely, Mark! Bet you're happy now. What angle grinder or buffer are you using? Do you have a link? I need to get a variable speed grinder for running those wire wheels.
Thanks Doug. I am using an old polisher that tends to smoke a lot when I am polishing a car but seems to work okay at higher speeds. It is just a cheap Harbor Freight one like this: www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-7-in-variable-speed-rotary-polishersander-70589.html
The high speed wire wheels do just fine on the fastest speed but if you put them on a grinder they don't last long.
Great to see so much progress. After you do your filler and blocking, that car will be dead-on straight. What are your thoughts on spraying over epoxy? I've heard lots of different opinions.
I set myself back a little. After installing the motor and trans, I decided I really should rewire the car. I just stated yesterday installing the 64-67 GTO American Autowire Classic Upgrade Kit.
Thanks Ron. I certainly hope Ruby comes out super straight, if not I will just keep redoing her until she is.
I talked to the paint rep about using the epoxy all the way to the top and spraying the base coat right on the epoxy. His recommendation is there is no better way since the epoxy is more stable and adheres to itself better than anything else. Cost is usually the factor since it is more expensive than polyester or urethanes. The older epoxies didn't sand or fill all that well but the stuff I am using does both very well.
What do you think of that kit? I am planning out the wiring right now and will have several relays in my setup so I am looking around and very open to suggestions.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Hi Mark, I guess I may have old info on epoxies. I've heard everything from a 7-day window to it has to be sanded again.
As I mentioned, I just got started on the wiring install. These wiring kits are designed car specific, however they include a new fuse block (had to open the stock hole slightly) with modern style fuses and are engineered to accept all the most popular updates.
They prewire some of the main assemblies, so they just plug into the harness. Such as the dash, it can be wired on the bench and then plugged into the harness. They're set up for HEI ignition, one wire alternator and have an accessory connection for multiple extra circuits. They come with a new ignition and headlight switch and plenty of extra wire length for custom routing. So far, the instructions seem pretty good, and I think it's going to work out great.
@@RonWatson-b6u Things change frequently in the auto paint industry so it is easy to fall behind. The epoxy I am using says it can be recoated up to so many days but I NEVER do anything like that anymore. There were systems that were wet on wet meaning you sprayed them, waited till they flashed and then sprayed the color on top. The timing is critical and it is to easy to introduce flaws. The epoxy will be sanded to 600 or 800 hundred before the base coat is applied with plenty of time to outgas in-between. Allowing your material to outgas and shrink is key to a perfect final finish.
Thanks for the info.
I’ve never understood why people get fussy about dust in their epoxy. There will be filler, high build primer , etc. going over it and plenty of block sanding. Any dust won’t matter one bit.
@@T3glider The only time I fuss over bugs or dirt is on the base coat/clear coat but you should always tack off before spraying, just blowing off never removes all the dust which could lead to reduced adhesion.
Who did you use to dip the car? The closest place to us is down in Eugene, OR, so I was wondering if that's who you used.
That is who I took the car to, Metal Works in Eugene. Bo and his crew were awesome to work with and did a wonderful job on my GTO. It was a long haul but Bo worked with me and even let me leave my trailer in their yard while I went off to visit a good friend in Idaho while I was waiting for the process to be completed. Give him a call and see how far out they are. I had to wait about 12 weeks before they could get me in.
You won't regret getting the car dipped, best decision I made on the whole project.
painful to watch. Never even seen a rookie stop spraying in the middle of a small panel like that. Was this the how not to paint episode?
Glad you liked it. Why would I pull the trigger and wave the gun around like I was spraying a control coat? Just wasteful and puts more epoxy on the ground instead of the panel.
All respect and sincerity, not just trying to poop on your birthday cake. If you have a 4' panel why wouldn't you just do it in one pass? You wouldn't use more paint as you wouldn't have double coverage in the middle where you have to rewet it.
@@wolfhobbies No worries. I was focused on coverage of the epoxy not speed. The area I sprayed first I wanted a little more build because it needs it. Spraying epoxy or urethane or any heavy bodied material coverage and build is what I focus on. Just saw an Eastwood video of a guy using a roller on a fender laying down urethane primer I think. It did the trick and he blocked it out but I think I will stick to a spray gun even with my rookie skills. 😁