Thanks for the flow switch tip, nice job. My IQ 2020 has failed twice with a different problem, in both cases the spa was completely dead, no sign of life. I traced the problem to the power supply on the motherboard, in both cases it was a 220uf 25V electrolytic on the AC side of the PSU daughter board. The first time I replaced the cap with a no-name brand, big mistake as it only lasted a few years, the second time I used a good quality Elna cap. If you're interested I can provide pictures. :)
I tried using the aftermarket flow switch, only to learn the switch was defective and did not solve the problem. I spoke with a technician at Spa Depot in Olympia, WA and learned that all you really need to do is cut the wire from the pressure switch on the Watkins heater and splice the wires together from the Molex connector mounted on the mother board. This activates flow and allows the heater to operate properly. The flow switch in not needed. My hot tub heater is now working and regulating as it should.
You are right on sir. After writing my initial comment I researched the heater mfg website. The flow switch is an integral part of the heater, requiring full heater replacement to solve the flow switch problem. At a cost of $238 for the heater + switch combo from the OEM Watkins, it is a poor design. So I jumpered it out temporarily until I could find the flow switch mentioned in this utube. It sounded like “Waterloo”? But of more interest Watkins sells the heater + switch replacement unit mentioned above as a kit that includes a pre manufactured jumper wire to remove the switch from the circuit. I hesitated to make my jumper a permanent solution vs temporary. Know anything about the Waterloo part?
Bought used Limelight Flair, heated up good but next day flashing ready and power...came across this video and bought featured part on Amazon...worked like a champ! Thanks for the video and tip!
This is a great video and put me on the right track, but you can actually skip most of this effort. HotSpring has discontinued the pressure switch part. They now instruct owners to cut the wire off between the board and heater, strip them back and crimp them together. I used an insulated closed end crimp connector, but a wire nut would work as well. It closes the circuit and allows the heater to turn on. The parts guy at the HotSpring store told me the heater is still protected from overheating by other safeguards. This fix worked well for me and cost effectively nothing.
This is a great video. I own a 2016 Hot Spring Grandee NXT and I keep getting a flashing blue light on the outside panel. I also have the Connextion wireless app that provides me info when something goes wrong with the system. I can also control the hot tub remotely with the app. The problem I am having for some time now that that the error message reads “Circulation is low, clean filters”. Filters are brand new and have been cleaned. I will also get “System interlock on” . I shut down the breakers, wait, then reset breakers. All is good for a few hours. Then I will get the flashing blue light and a Message, “System anterlock on”. The heater works fine after I reset the breaker. I had a tech come out and he bypassed the pressure switch with a jumper, that seem to work for a week. Then started happening again. Tech cam back out and said it’s the computer board, I told him prove it to me. I’m an engineer and understand the principles of this system. He then thought about it and proceeded to disconnect the hose from the circulation pump and the T valve that you removed in your video to let water come out and see if it was clogged in there. He put the hoses back on and starts the system back up. We saw particles come up and through the bottom of the circulation/ozone bubbler vent. Flow appeared to be better. He said this should work now. After he left 2 hours later, I’m back to flashing blue on my panel and the tub is locked out. This issue happens when the tub is not in use and in standard circulation mode. What could be the issue. I do not like throwing money after parts to see if this is the issue. Any help would greatly appreciated and I can do this work myself as I have the tools and aptitude for any repair thrown at me. Been doing it my whole life and owned a 1994 Sundance Royale for 20 years prior to my new 2016 Hot Spring tub. Thanks
Thank you so much for this video! I had the blinking power and ready light problem after draining and refilling our Tiger River Spa and ran across your video. I zeroed in that my problem was a gunked up pressure switch by unplugging the pressure switch plug on the control panel and closing the circuit with a pair of alligator clips. Spa began working again normally with that temporary fix. Ordered the aftermarket flow switch from Amazon along with some tubing and completed the repair today. Super easy especially with a heat gun to soften up the hoses. I'm pretty sure our spa repair place would have wanted to replace the whole heating unit had I called them. You saved me some serious cash! Thanks again!
@@NorcalSpas My husband drained the spa and refilled it. Afterwards the heater return wasn’t putting out water. He had a service person out. Looks like he replaced the main circuit board. Now the heater return works great but it will not heat up. The jets are strong with no surging. On the control panel the power light is solid red and the ready light flashed green. On the circuit boards the D9 is flashing red and D10 is solid green. LIM is solid green. HTR ON lights up green for a few seconds then goes off. The pressure switch looks like it has already been shorted out to itself. When the jets are on D17 is solid red. We have been waiting for the service person for months. I would love to fix this ourselves and cancel our service call. Thanks for any help.
Congratulations on your channel, I am a fan of your videos, you are a professional and excellent instructor. I have a HotSpring Jetseeter. When I turn on the jets I hear repeated clicks on the relays. I left the jets on for about 5 to 10 minutes and they stopped working, I checked the voltage (120v) and it was fine, the next step I did was unplug the pump and check if it was working and really if it is ok... I wonder if this is a problem with the relay board or the main board 🤷🏻♂️.... I hope for your help
I’ve got the blinking red and green after replacing the water in the spa. How can I troubleshoot to tell if the problem is with the circulation pump or pressure switch?
I was just given a 2005 hot spring spa like this one but it’s grey in color. It worked perfect when it was moved to its current location. It sat for 10 years and was never run and no water in it. What should I look for to make sure it’s still ok? I have a spa tech coming next week to look it over. Thanks!
@Hot Tub Cowboy - I have an old Watkins tub I'm trying to get running and the board is fried. Can I replace it with a 3rd party or some sort of aftermarket control board? Finding an IQ 2020 to replace it has been rough.
You mention both a red and green flashing light. Did I get that right or is it just the green light. I currently have a green flashing light after replacing the two red washers on the end cap of the heater. My circle pump seems to be doing its job, but after inspecting the heater it is obvious that it is not heating up. I am just wondering before hacking the switch, is there a way to make Sur ethat it is the flow switch and not a complete failure of the heater. thanks
So I have a Hot Spring Vanguard 2014 I have had it serviced it looks like they bi-passed the pressure switch the cutting the wire and twisting the end. I now have a red and green light flashing on my circuit board. The water is flowing through the heater but it will not heat the tub full of water. Can you help me understand what service I need. I've been soured as with the last service tech seems to have cut some corners, I hope they were not at my expence,
@HotTubCowboy my red and green light comes on only when I run the jets the heat is working fine, and the pump is moving water. Great I have had to bleed air out of the pump line in the past to get the bubble out and that usually solve the issue however, this time it seems to continue. Please help if you can. Also, does anybody have the link to the aftermarket part?
DID WHAT HE SAID. ORDERED ON AMAZON. MAKE SURE YOU LOOK UNDER SPA FLOW SWITCH OR YOU WON;T FIND IT. ABOUT 50 DOLLARS... WAS SIMPLE TO INSTALL....NOW HEATER IS WORKING FINE
My Hotsprings Hotspot Model TX LED displayed 3 dashes and Blinking red Ready light. I removed the power source. I removed the access panel. I removed the Main Logic Board Cover. I pulled off the temp sensor leads and re-installed the leads. I restored power and everything started working again. I don't know if resetting power fixed it, or if re-securing the temperature sensors leads fixed it. Earlier attempts of removing power and restoring power did not wo
Probably restoring the leads. Sounds like the connection was loose which is very common on those units. When you take the main panel off it can actually bump the leads and loosen or take them off all together
How would I figure out the flow switch needed for a Vanguard spa (2013)? I don't see anything online that specifies which switches to use for which spas.
May be a universal solution. This was suggested for my Hot Springs. The difference may just be the plugin. Save old one. You may need the plug to cut and wire in. This does one thing electrically; open or close.
Hello, I tried this, install the bypass pressure switch, and connected it all back together. Now the red light is no longer blinking but my green light is not on at all and the spa is still not heating any suggestions?
@Heather Shay you should have at least one of those lights blinking on the logo. Sometimes in the day time it’s hard to see so you may need to cup your hand over the logo and check or look on the control unit you should either see a solid power or flashing power and ready
I need help asap. I have this spa, it heats up but then the black switch board with the buttons keeps turning off, and stops heating but the heater and pump works. What could it be??
Hi Hot tube cowboy, I have a water leakage on the opposite side from the endcap. Who could provide me with an solution? There was a frost damage on the endcap and I‘m afraid that the opposite side has also suffered. Thank you!
Um, why didn't he do all that before he installed the first end? He has the piece to measure against? I'd advice don't use the heat gun inside the cabinet.
@@sherryfrith105 you may have a airlock if not filled thru the grey filter stem, check for power to your heater with a meter also there should be a red heater light on the top of your board,it sounds like a airlock thought
No. I’m sorry this is all wrong. You’re deleting the Ozone, the Mazzi, and creating so much more work for yourself. Just replace the original part. It cost the same if not less than the flow sensor, and you wouldn’t have to remove the lower control, the ozone, the mazzi, splice the wire, heat the flex pvc, glue the new flex. The fail rate on those flow sensors are just as bad, they are no better than the hot springs thermistor.
Thanks for the flow switch tip, nice job. My IQ 2020 has failed twice with a different problem, in both cases the spa was completely dead, no sign of life. I traced the problem to the power supply on the motherboard, in both cases it was a 220uf 25V electrolytic on the AC side of the PSU daughter board. The first time I replaced the cap with a no-name brand, big mistake as it only lasted a few years, the second time I used a good quality Elna cap. If you're interested I can provide pictures. :)
I tried using the aftermarket flow switch, only to learn the switch was defective and did not solve the problem. I spoke with a technician at Spa Depot in Olympia, WA and learned that all you really need to do is cut the wire from the pressure switch on the Watkins heater and splice the wires together from the Molex connector mounted on the mother board. This activates flow and allows the heater to operate properly. The flow switch in not needed.
My hot tub heater is now working and regulating as it should.
You are right on sir. After writing my initial comment I researched the heater mfg website. The flow switch is an integral part of the heater, requiring full heater replacement to solve the flow switch problem. At a cost of $238 for the heater + switch combo from the OEM Watkins, it is a poor design. So I jumpered it out temporarily until I could find the flow switch mentioned in this utube. It sounded like “Waterloo”? But of more interest Watkins sells the heater + switch replacement unit mentioned above as a kit that includes a pre manufactured jumper wire to remove the switch from the circuit. I hesitated to make my jumper a permanent solution vs temporary. Know anything about the Waterloo part?
Bought used Limelight Flair, heated up good but next day flashing ready and power...came across this video and bought featured part on Amazon...worked like a champ! Thanks for the video and tip!
Woohoo that’s awesome so glad I could help
Thanks so much for the fix. It worked perfectly and saved me lots of money. Thanks for making the video.
Awesome this makes me super happy.
Saved me a lot of money. Thank you
This is a great video and put me on the right track, but you can actually skip most of this effort. HotSpring has discontinued the pressure switch part. They now instruct owners to cut the wire off between the board and heater, strip them back and crimp them together. I used an insulated closed end crimp connector, but a wire nut would work as well. It closes the circuit and allows the heater to turn on. The parts guy at the HotSpring store told me the heater is still protected from overheating by other safeguards. This fix worked well for me and cost effectively nothing.
It looks like this was done to my spa. If the ready light still blinks and it won’t heat is it the heater itself?
Did the same, worked. Good to know the heater is still protected.
Interesting! Can you clarify a bit more? The pressure switch wire? And what exactly are you cutting / crimping on that wire? Thanks!
This is a great video. I own a 2016 Hot Spring Grandee NXT and I keep getting a flashing blue light on the outside panel. I also have the Connextion wireless app that provides me info when something goes wrong with the system. I can also control the hot tub remotely with the app.
The problem I am having for some time now that that the error message reads “Circulation is low, clean filters”. Filters are brand new and have been cleaned. I will also get “System interlock on” . I shut down the breakers, wait, then reset breakers. All is good for a few hours. Then I will get the flashing blue light and a Message, “System anterlock on”. The heater works fine after I reset the breaker.
I had a tech come out and he bypassed the pressure switch with a jumper, that seem to work for a week. Then started happening again.
Tech cam back out and said it’s the computer board, I told him prove it to me. I’m an engineer and understand the principles of this system. He then thought about it and proceeded to disconnect the hose from the circulation pump and the T valve that you removed in your video to let water come out and see if it was clogged in there. He put the hoses back on and starts the system back up. We saw particles come up and through the bottom of the circulation/ozone bubbler vent. Flow appeared to be better. He said this should work now. After he left 2 hours later, I’m back to flashing blue on my panel and the tub is locked out.
This issue happens when the tub is not in use and in standard circulation mode. What could be the issue. I do not like throwing money after parts to see if this is the issue.
Any help would greatly appreciated and I can do this work myself as I have the tools and aptitude for any repair thrown at me. Been doing it my whole life and owned a 1994 Sundance Royale for 20 years prior to my new 2016 Hot Spring tub. Thanks
Thank you so much for this video! I had the blinking power and ready light problem after draining and refilling our Tiger River Spa and ran across your video. I zeroed in that my problem was a gunked up pressure switch by unplugging the pressure switch plug on the control panel and closing the circuit with a pair of alligator clips. Spa began working again normally with that temporary fix. Ordered the aftermarket flow switch from Amazon along with some tubing and completed the repair today. Super easy especially with a heat gun to soften up the hoses. I'm pretty sure our spa repair place would have wanted to replace the whole heating unit had I called them. You saved me some serious cash! Thanks again!
I’m just now getting around to reading this comment and it made my day!! So glad I could help
@@NorcalSpas My husband drained the spa and refilled it. Afterwards the heater return wasn’t putting out water. He had a service person out. Looks like he replaced the main circuit board. Now the heater return works great but it will not heat up.
The jets are strong with no surging.
On the control panel the power light is solid red and the ready light flashed green.
On the circuit boards the D9 is flashing red and D10 is solid green. LIM is solid green. HTR ON lights up green for a few seconds then goes off. The pressure switch looks like it has already been shorted out to itself. When the jets are on D17 is solid red.
We have been waiting for the service person for months. I would love to fix this ourselves and cancel our service call. Thanks for any help.
13:10 This fixed worked! Thank you ….
I did exactly this, fitting the flow switch and the repair worked. Thank you for the video. Saved me some cash.
Congratulations on your channel, I am a fan of your videos, you are a professional and excellent instructor. I have a HotSpring Jetseeter. When I turn on the jets I hear repeated clicks on the relays. I left the jets on for about 5 to 10 minutes and they stopped working, I checked the voltage (120v) and it was fine, the next step I did was unplug the pump and check if it was working and really if it is ok... I wonder if this is a problem with the relay board or the main board 🤷🏻♂️.... I hope for your help
I’ve got the blinking red and green after replacing the water in the spa. How can I troubleshoot to tell if the problem is with the circulation pump or pressure switch?
I was just given a 2005 hot spring spa like this one but it’s grey in color. It worked perfect when it was moved to its current location. It sat for 10 years and was never run and no water in it. What should I look for to make sure it’s still ok? I have a spa tech coming next week to look it over. Thanks!
Thanks
Hi! I did all of this and it's working amazing. Withouth the ozonater we don't have bubbles coming up out of the drain. Is that ok??
@Hot Tub Cowboy - I have an old Watkins tub I'm trying to get running and the board is fried. Can I replace it with a 3rd party or some sort of aftermarket control board? Finding an IQ 2020 to replace it has been rough.
Good video, I will probably do it just to be safe. However, what's the issue with just jumpering the pressure switch wires?
13:02 hey I have a leaking hot springs puls 2012 heater w salt water corrosion. Best to replace or repair ?
You mention both a red and green flashing light. Did I get that right or is it just the green light. I currently have a green flashing light after replacing the two red washers on the end cap of the heater. My circle pump seems to be doing its job, but after inspecting the heater it is obvious that it is not heating up. I am just wondering before hacking the switch, is there a way to make Sur ethat it is the flow switch and not a complete failure of the heater. thanks
I am unable to locate the video you reference about testing the pressure/flow switch. Is it posted on you channel?
So I have a Hot Spring Vanguard 2014 I have had it serviced it looks like they bi-passed the pressure switch the cutting the wire and twisting the end. I now have a red and green light flashing on my circuit board. The water is flowing through the heater but it will not heat the tub full of water. Can you help me understand what service I need. I've been soured as with the last service tech seems to have cut some corners, I hope they were not at my expence,
Is there a video of that particular tub to go from 110 to 220?
Where do you get the switch and what is the model number so I can order it (Pressure switch / aftermarket flow switch
I have mine installed but unfortunately the piece is fluttering but not making contact with the pole thing. Not sure how to correct that.
@HotTubCowboy my red and green light comes on only when I run the jets the heat is working fine, and the pump is moving water. Great I have had to bleed air out of the pump line in the past to get the bubble out and that usually solve the issue however, this time it seems to continue. Please help if you can. Also, does anybody have the link to the aftermarket part?
DID WHAT HE SAID. ORDERED ON AMAZON. MAKE SURE YOU LOOK UNDER SPA FLOW SWITCH OR YOU WON;T FIND IT. ABOUT 50 DOLLARS... WAS SIMPLE TO INSTALL....NOW HEATER IS WORKING FINE
Yeah but how do l know if it's the pressure switch?
My Hotsprings Hotspot Model TX LED displayed 3 dashes and Blinking red Ready light. I removed the power source. I removed the access panel. I removed the Main Logic Board Cover. I pulled off the temp sensor leads and re-installed the leads. I restored power and everything started working again. I don't know if resetting power fixed it, or if re-securing the temperature sensors leads fixed it. Earlier attempts of removing power and restoring power did not wo
Probably restoring the leads. Sounds like the connection was loose which is very common on those units. When you take the main panel off it can actually bump the leads and loosen or take them off all together
So this repair because of the 2 blinking lights. I'm still getting the 2 blinking lights. Please help.
How would I figure out the flow switch needed for a Vanguard spa (2013)? I don't see anything online that specifies which switches to use for which spas.
May be a universal solution. This was suggested for my Hot Springs. The difference may just be the plugin. Save old one. You may need the plug to cut and wire in. This does one thing electrically; open or close.
where can i buy the aftermarket pressure switch
Hello,
I tried this, install the bypass pressure switch, and connected it all back together. Now the red light is no longer blinking but my green light is not on at all and the spa is still not heating any suggestions?
Hello my green light only blinking is that the same thing
I have a 2014 hot spring envoy and the Hrt light is blinking red and the green power light slowly blinking is this also the fox for it ?
On your diagnostic lighting (logo lights) you should have a blue power light and green ready light. Which one or are both of those blinking?
@@NorcalSpas neither of them are on but it is on the board of the hot tub.
@Heather Shay you should have at least one of those lights blinking on the logo. Sometimes in the day time it’s hard to see so you may need to cup your hand over the logo and check or look on the control unit you should either see a solid power or flashing power and ready
@@NorcalSpas I had my husband check only the blue lights comes on if we can get it up to temp .
I need help asap. I have this spa, it heats up but then the black switch board with the buttons keeps turning off, and stops heating but the heater and pump works. What could it be??
Do you still need help? When you say black switch board with buttons are you referring to the control unit on top built into the siding
@@NorcalSpas 0:55
Where can I get that aftermarket pressure switch?
Hi Hot tube cowboy, I have a water leakage on the opposite side from the endcap. Who could provide me with an solution? There was a frost damage on the endcap and I‘m afraid that the opposite side has also suffered. Thank you!
I used jbweld MarineWeld to fix the same problem. I did have to use a bunch. Ugly but 1 year in and holding.
Do you have a link to the flow switch?
Hello. Did you ever find the link to this after market piece? I just bought the original, but the after market one makes more sense
I need a control board
Um, why didn't he do all that before he installed the first end? He has the piece to measure against? I'd advice don't use the heat gun inside the cabinet.
ok...so ur saying those lights flashing is the pressure switch and the pressure switch only???
Why not jump the pressure switch in the box,it's free and problem solved
It looks like that’s already been done to mine at some point. Currently, after it was drained it will not heat. Do I need a new heater?
@@sherryfrith105 you may have a airlock if not filled thru the grey filter stem, check for power to your heater with a meter also there should be a red heater light on the top of your board,it sounds like a airlock thought
@@wxjunky the heater light is not on
@@sherryfrith105 is the circulation pump running and moving water(if it has a circulation pump) ?
@@wxjunky yes it’s circulating fine
Opl
No. I’m sorry this is all wrong. You’re deleting the Ozone, the Mazzi, and creating so much more work for yourself. Just replace the original part. It cost the same if not less than the flow sensor, and you wouldn’t have to remove the lower control, the ozone, the mazzi, splice the wire, heat the flex pvc, glue the new flex. The fail rate on those flow sensors are just as bad, they are no better than the hot springs thermistor.