Here’s a painting tip for you with stencils. Use clear coat first over the stencil. If anything bleeds, it’s clear coat. Once you cover that with your paint and peel, you’ll have clean, crisp lines every time. Even on porous surfaces.
You can also apply a coat of the base color after the stencil is applied. If there is bleed it will be from the base color and it will seal/fill any area where the bleed of the 2nd color may occur.
@@obzelite even with stencil vinyl, I recommend clear coat. I’ve had it bleed through too. Depends on the quality of the surface being painted with a stencil 😁
Came here to say something similar, but I agree with J Kit. Don't worry about clear coat, just give your stencil a couple of light coats with the base color.
@@DavidSoucie Agreed! Same concept, just depends on whether you plan on clear coating your entire project or leaving your paint unprotected to the elements. You are putting in the time and effort, you be the judge on what's best for your project ;)
Great flight! Just a tip for future reference on charges: The turbo encabulator is awesome, but the new micro encabulator saves a lot of space since you don't need a full-length non-reversible tremie pipe, so you can run nano grammeters 👍
Thank you! I've been trying to find some micro encabulators but they're sold out almost everywhere, have plenty of nano grammeters though so I'm all set there :)
Those winds at LDRS were killing me. I showed up with a handful of LPRs. My nieces who were with me saw me get a bit star struck when I pointed you out. You looked busy, so I didn't want to bother you. Was definitely one of the highlights of last weekend!
We had an exchange at some point on Twitter when you were going through a tough patch. Watched every video you made since you came back on UA-cam. You seem to be doing much better and it shows in your content. It’s stellar! Glad to see you back and in great shape!!
Just a couple tips from when I got my L3, try using the double pull pin switches from lab rat rocketry. In addition to adding a sweet 'remove before flight' lanyard, they are a mechanically simple way to easily arm two altimeters simultaneously. It would also be worth mentioning that I also wired two screw switches in parallel with the pull pin to add dissimilar redundancy for each altimeter. As cool as the power hatch is, just be wary that you are severely weakening the fiberglass by cutting that rectangle - filament wound composite does not like being messed with. Especially be careful with weakening the coupler that holds your two main parts of the airframe together because a rather large moment is applied there during flight. Because of that, I would recommend moving the location of the runcams to somewhere else on the airframe. Just being nitpicky here because clearly it worked, but moving forward with bigger and crazier rockets, these are just a few things to keep in mind. Awesome job!
Look up "finger tech power switch". It's a switch designed for small combat robots and as such is super durable/shock resistant, lightweight, and should never back out from vibration. It does require a hex key to turn on but wouldn't fall out like the power hatch link might if, for example, it landed on it at a funky angle
Fantastic Joe! I just graduated engineering at uni and I’ve got a job, but im missing the education experience and thinking about what subject I should self-teach. You’re Videos always inspire this. Also, I wish there was a micro centre in Australia. Best we have is a joke store called Jaycar. It’s usually about the size of a shoebox and staffed by a retired cab driver and 3 pieces of limp spinach. It only stocks the most generic of components and I will have to order online for at least 50% of the components I need anyway. Micro centre looks like Disneyland.
Went to my first model rocketry launches last Sunday and it was a dream come true. I was volunteering for CanSat 2022 competition. Although I have been studying about rockets for years now, seeing them actually fly and all the subsystem work is whole different feeling. You always said that you learnt by doing and I am trying to inculcate that in myself as well. Extremely excited to start my own journey. You're an inspiration Joe!
Great video gunchboss! Glad to see you're using only the best connectors for your power hatches ;)... I also think you've convinced me to "send it" and get my L3 sooner rather than later.
A good technique for painting with stencils is to first apply the same color paint before painting it in the right color. This fills up any gaps between the stencil and the surface. This means you won't have any bleeding from the color applied after.
6:49 I'm glad to know Loctite epoxy is also tasty. My personal favourite is the raspberry and blueberry flavours of Loctite theadlocker, I always have a couple of drops as a treat :)
Interesting thing you've found with the audio glitch; I found A. Cookbook on the side of the road the other day, but all the pages were blank... And congrats, can't wait for the launch video!
Extremely well done Joey from Joey.B rocket reviews, you are part of the inspiration that got me designing and 3D printing my own model rockets. My rockets aren’t as advanced as yours but the parachute deployment process is rather unique and I haven’t seen it anywhere else on the internet. But aside from that keep up the amazing work :)
@@PatrickKQ4HBD I use fairings instead of the usual nose cone design, everything is packed into the fairings and when the blast of air from the motor (which would usual blow the nose cone off which takes the parachute with it) the fairings get pushed out and they separate. Leaving the parachute protected and in the ideal position to open
Instead of cutting the ziplock "tails" close up against the cliplock face, cut them a little way back (even about 1/2 cm). When they are latched, you are relying on (usually) just three clicks, so if the lock slips (for any reason), a close-cut tail will just let go. If the tail is a little longer, a slip will not be catastrophic as it will catch and re-grip. Strangely, I was taught this in my stage lighting hobby, and it works - I use it in all my model RC aircraft too.
PAINTING PERFECTION! Put stencil on over RED color paint, spray with RED paint; let dry, THEN spray over stencil with WHITE. : RED seals the seams, and you get the sharpest edges ever when you spray the white........total time saver!
Been following this chan for a while, its really enjoyable to see the evolution of the design and your skills. Nice job and congrats on level 3 certification.
My dad used to work in the aircraft engine industry and to tie down the wiring for their strain gauges they used some waxed carpet string-tape that get knotted at frequent intervals. This is unbelievably strong, doesn't break, doesn't get loose and is super light.
Finding it pretty funny how just yesterday I was watching an online class about antenna design and the speaker specifically called out rocketry hobbyists for using antennas which are wayyyy too directional and then in your footage there's the exact yagi antennas she was talking about lol. Also, I'm pretty new to this rf stuff but afaik your emitter antenna would probably function better if placed horizontally, as such a monopole antenna mostly emit sideways (when vertical).
I'm window shopping for a mobile ham radio, and almost studying for my technician test. I'm glad you pointed this out, and I'll be looking for it next video. 👍
hahah I participated in a school rocketry competition last week and we actually developed a omnidirectional antenna for the gps (that also has problems like that).
Just a quick tip for painting, if it needs to be very sturdy good looking and fast there are 2k spray can's. You can speed up the curing of the 2k paint by like you do with normal epoxy heating it to around 60°C. If you store the paint in the fridge you can get up to 24h once activated so you have time for multiple layers and sanding if necessary. Looking forward to the flight video ☺️
I dont know if this was already posted but for the painting with stencils, try to paint the rocket in red, then apply the stencil, then spray the stencils also with red, let it dry and then spray a layer of white above it. This re-painting with red spray color seals all the cracks for the white layer. Should result in way cleaner edges! This is a technique from painting clean edges on walls ;) Congrats for the Launch!
Congratulations Joe! Wish you the best ahead in your racketeering journey! It is very impressive how far you've gone and I cannot wait to see where your adventures take you. Hopefully you can make this your everyday job if it isn't already :D
Just went out to the Black Rock desert event last weekend to launch a 2 stage rocket to 150k. Unfortunate to say that the wind killed the flight, but it’s videos like these that remind me to brush the dust off and try again!
Congrats Joe for your L3 certification and this awesome rocket. Love your videos, keep on uploading quality content so UA-cam gets more useful each time !
A top tip I use when doing airbrushing stencils is to hit it with the base colour to help seal it first. Then any bleed is basically invisible and you finish with the top coat as normal.
I did rockets for the first time in grade school, around 1970. There were no "High Power Rocketry" certifications back then; in fact, due to NAR Safety Code, it was technically *illegal* to launch even a G motor rocket (these days, High Power is H and higher impulse). When I flew them again in the 1990s, I got my NAR Level 1 on the first try; to make a point I used *no epoxy* in the entire rocket, and super glue only to hold lead shot ballast at the tip of the nose cone. All rocket parts were plywood or paper (aka cardboard) tube, all structural glue was Titebond II, except for PVC pipe cement for the quick-change positive motor retention system I designed (pipe cement bonded the threaded plastic pipe piece to the actual motor mount tube). The rocket flew flawlessly on an Aerotech H128, recovered correctly (using motor ejection and a deep bed of blow-in insulation material to protect the parachute, and recovered with no damage (as required). No long after that, I dropped out of hobby rocketry, because I couldn't see being able to launch anything bigger than that rocket even once a year. Not just the cost of motors/propellant reloads -- but the travel cost to get anywhere it was legal/safe to launch bigger vehicles.
Many years ago, I was at a fish and chips shop in Melbourne, Australia and was asked "Do you want minimum chips or less?" Your discussion of minimum and sub-minimum gave me flashbacks.
Joe is one of the big inspirations that caused me to quit my job and start my own company. It's a tiny one-man company that does whole-systems engineering and it still looks stupid since I havent finished anything yet but I love it. I love my new life.
Good launch Joe. Thanks a lot for the books to read and for inspire me not to give up, like spaceX. I am finishing some projects to start and focus all time on a landing rc rocket project on September (not to orbit but as high as legally possible in Spain). I dream with a shop like this in Spain. "Edited in 2030: I keep dreaming with a shop like this in my country"
Quiet on the set plz! Thank you again for your next masterpiece of rocketry and entertainment! I think im not the only one who loves your videos. Regards from germany!
The fact you managed to put in a turbo encabulator in your rocket blows my mind, must have been quite the advancement in prefabulated amulite pyrotechnics to get it to this state! Big advancement to amateur rocketry.
Hot glue is a Godsent. Works every time. Also I like to desolder screw terminals, and directly solder the wires to the pcb for mission critical stuff, fix pcb connectors with zip ties to the board itself (probably not a great idea if the connector has to be pulled out fast for some reason ) add some more hot glue, say some prayers, knock on some wood and it's ready to go. Zip ties, hot glue and tape are the holy trinity of engineering probably, if your hardware does not have all three it's destined to fail.
interesting usage of those WAGO connectors. I used one I once got on the Hannover Messe on my sim racing steering wheel, and it held up pretty well to the extreme rattling and shaking, with way too many cables crammed in :D
The trick to shopping at microcenter: So you are not paying $4.99 for a resistor that digikey sells a roll of 10,000 for $5 is peel the price tags off cheap things and put them on expensive , plus then the 400% mark up that micro center charges. A new Fluke multi-meter for $4.99? Well the kid at the counter getting paid min wage doesn't know that and the 10,000,000% mark up you have paid on resistors over the years for when you couldnt wait for digikey, still keeps those profits healthy! Thats why I recommend microcenter and a good set of finger nails!
I built a custom designed rocket when I was a kid, about this size, and put a pile of Estes D engines in it. I admired it for years then finally decided to launch it. When I launched it, it took off so fast and kept going higher until it disappeared. Never saw it again. Hahaha.
I know its probably nit picking, but i agree with the comment on the connector hatch, i think its good to get in the habit of not letting the 2 redundant systems share one or more parts, you dont think it could fail, but u probably think the same about all the other parts
If you like hot glue, you're going to love UV-curing resin adhesive. It is cheap, applies with the consistency of hot glue except with less finger-burning potential, and cures in seconds when hit with a commodity 365nm UV flashlight. It is substantially more temperature tolerant than hot glue, and somewhat more compatible with simple cleaning solvents like alcohols if that's important in your application. Unless I'm definitely sure I'll need to remove something easily and with no residue and surface marring, I always grab my UV resin first these days as it's a big timesaver compared to waiting for the hot glue gun to heat up and for the glue to harden without dripping down into places it shouldn't.
we are building ours now for our senior capstone project at UVU. We are building an active drag system for ours so we can hit a very specific height and hopefully make it to spaceport ameica cup this fall.
Love you. Love the videos. Love the rockets. HATE hot glue with the burning hate of an exploding star. It gets too hot, it softens and lets go. It gets too cold, it just lets go.
The acetone may soak into composites and reduce structural integrity. If you're ever pushing the strength limits, it would be wise to do your acetone wipe long before you paint to give plenty of time for the solvent to work its way back out. Love how multidisciplinary your projects are!
hi , its amazing your rocket!!! , its powerfull !! and smarter by it electronics, i build many rockets in 2008 and byond in morocco , now i am far way from this activity because work and money, your movie inspered me again to goback to rocketery. best regards
Here’s a painting tip for you with stencils. Use clear coat first over the stencil. If anything bleeds, it’s clear coat. Once you cover that with your paint and peel, you’ll have clean, crisp lines every time. Even on porous surfaces.
You can also apply a coat of the base color after the stencil is applied. If there is bleed it will be from the base color and it will seal/fill any area where the bleed of the 2nd color may occur.
or just use proper stencil vinyl that doesn't bleed. cnc bulkheads, getting pcbs made but half assing the last bit with a hand cut copy paper stencil.
@@obzelite even with stencil vinyl, I recommend clear coat. I’ve had it bleed through too. Depends on the quality of the surface being painted with a stencil 😁
Came here to say something similar, but I agree with J Kit. Don't worry about clear coat, just give your stencil a couple of light coats with the base color.
@@DavidSoucie Agreed! Same concept, just depends on whether you plan on clear coating your entire project or leaving your paint unprotected to the elements. You are putting in the time and effort, you be the judge on what's best for your project ;)
Cool! I didn't even know there was a certification system for rocketry. Congrats on getting yours!
Bobby dookie!!
Does it mean you can buy bigger rocket motors or explosives or something?
@@thetruthexperiment iirc yea you have access to more powerful rocket motors
you can make your own motors (any size) without certification.
Certification applies to NAR or TRA events
@@mojaverockets NAR won't let you fly at their events with an ex motor though as far as I know. Tripoli will but you need a level 2.
Great flight! Just a tip for future reference on charges: The turbo encabulator is awesome, but the new micro encabulator saves a lot of space since you don't need a full-length non-reversible tremie pipe, so you can run nano grammeters 👍
Thank you! I've been trying to find some micro encabulators but they're sold out almost everywhere, have plenty of nano grammeters though so I'm all set there :)
@@BPSspace Microcenter doesn't have them?
I miss Radioshack more and more every day
English?
@@ThatGuy-pk6yr Yep, you got it
Also gets rid of the base-plate of prefabulated amulite. To bad you still need ambifacient lunar waneshaft to prevent side fumbling.
Those winds at LDRS were killing me. I showed up with a handful of LPRs. My nieces who were with me saw me get a bit star struck when I pointed you out. You looked busy, so I didn't want to bother you. Was definitely one of the highlights of last weekend!
SEND IT! sent my cursor straight to the like button
We had an exchange at some point on Twitter when you were going through a tough patch. Watched every video you made since you came back on UA-cam. You seem to be doing much better and it shows in your content. It’s stellar!
Glad to see you back and in great shape!!
I hope he realizes how much of an inspiration he is to people, including myself.
Just a couple tips from when I got my L3, try using the double pull pin switches from lab rat rocketry. In addition to adding a sweet 'remove before flight' lanyard, they are a mechanically simple way to easily arm two altimeters simultaneously. It would also be worth mentioning that I also wired two screw switches in parallel with the pull pin to add dissimilar redundancy for each altimeter. As cool as the power hatch is, just be wary that you are severely weakening the fiberglass by cutting that rectangle - filament wound composite does not like being messed with. Especially be careful with weakening the coupler that holds your two main parts of the airframe together because a rather large moment is applied there during flight. Because of that, I would recommend moving the location of the runcams to somewhere else on the airframe. Just being nitpicky here because clearly it worked, but moving forward with bigger and crazier rockets, these are just a few things to keep in mind. Awesome job!
Its so impressive and inspiring to see the evolution of these rockets, keep up the cool work!
I'm equally impressed and inspired by just how much Joe has grown and evolved. much love
I know I’ve been following for a while
Finally! Someone who agrees with me that hot glue is an underrated build material. It’s the best!!!
Look up "finger tech power switch". It's a switch designed for small combat robots and as such is super durable/shock resistant, lightweight, and should never back out from vibration. It does require a hex key to turn on but wouldn't fall out like the power hatch link might if, for example, it landed on it at a funky angle
Fantastic Joe!
I just graduated engineering at uni and I’ve got a job, but im missing the education experience and thinking about what subject I should self-teach. You’re Videos always inspire this.
Also, I wish there was a micro centre in Australia. Best we have is a joke store called Jaycar. It’s usually about the size of a shoebox and staffed by a retired cab driver and 3 pieces of limp spinach. It only stocks the most generic of components and I will have to order online for at least 50% of the components I need anyway. Micro centre looks like Disneyland.
I live one state over from a MicroCenter. But even then it's an 8+ hour drive! I might as well be in Australia. Also, congrats on graduation.
@@SixOThree cheers mate!
Went to my first model rocketry launches last Sunday and it was a dream come true. I was volunteering for CanSat 2022 competition. Although I have been studying about rockets for years now, seeing them actually fly and all the subsystem work is whole different feeling. You always said that you learnt by doing and I am trying to inculcate that in myself as well. Extremely excited to start my own journey. You're an inspiration Joe!
Nice
Congratulations, Joe! That's so awesome. I can't even imagine how it felt to successfully complete that flight and know you had the certification.
Great video gunchboss! Glad to see you're using only the best connectors for your power hatches ;)... I also think you've convinced me to "send it" and get my L3 sooner rather than later.
A good technique for painting with stencils is to first apply the same color paint before painting it in the right color. This fills up any gaps between the stencil and the surface. This means you won't have any bleeding from the color applied after.
6:49 I'm glad to know Loctite epoxy is also tasty. My personal favourite is the raspberry and blueberry flavours of Loctite theadlocker, I always have a couple of drops as a treat :)
Mmmmm, I’ll have to try that!
Interesting thing you've found with the audio glitch; I found A. Cookbook on the side of the road the other day, but all the pages were blank...
And congrats, can't wait for the launch video!
Extremely well done Joey from Joey.B rocket reviews, you are part of the inspiration that got me designing and 3D printing my own model rockets. My rockets aren’t as advanced as yours but the parachute deployment process is rather unique and I haven’t seen it anywhere else on the internet. But aside from that keep up the amazing work :)
Well don't leave us hanging! How do you deploy your parachute?
@@PatrickKQ4HBD I use fairings instead of the usual nose cone design, everything is packed into the fairings and when the blast of air from the motor (which would usual blow the nose cone off which takes the parachute with it) the fairings get pushed out and they separate. Leaving the parachute protected and in the ideal position to open
15:27 LOVE the T-shirt 'Dare mighty things'!! I want one!!
Can't wait to see the next episode!
Instead of cutting the ziplock "tails" close up against the cliplock face, cut them a little way back (even about 1/2 cm). When they are latched, you are relying on (usually) just three clicks, so if the lock slips (for any reason), a close-cut tail will just let go. If the tail is a little longer, a slip will not be catastrophic as it will catch and re-grip. Strangely, I was taught this in my stage lighting hobby, and it works - I use it in all my model RC aircraft too.
PAINTING PERFECTION! Put stencil on over RED color paint, spray with RED paint; let dry, THEN spray over stencil with WHITE. : RED seals the seams, and you get the sharpest edges ever when you spray the white........total time saver!
🤯 Thanks!
Loved the Turbo incabulator reference!
just a little comment to support and say Congrats! and thank you for the wonderful video, can't wait for the next one
Been following this chan for a while, its really enjoyable to see the evolution of the design and your skills. Nice job and congrats on level 3 certification.
This video made me so happy. If you are ever in LA lets grab coffee!
My dad used to work in the aircraft engine industry and to tie down the wiring for their strain gauges they used some waxed carpet string-tape that get knotted at frequent intervals. This is unbelievably strong, doesn't break, doesn't get loose and is super light.
Joe, I am your big fan from Hong Kong watching your channel from 2018 hope your Channel won't stop uploading videos keep up the great work!👍
Finding it pretty funny how just yesterday I was watching an online class about antenna design and the speaker specifically called out rocketry hobbyists for using antennas which are wayyyy too directional and then in your footage there's the exact yagi antennas she was talking about lol. Also, I'm pretty new to this rf stuff but afaik your emitter antenna would probably function better if placed horizontally, as such a monopole antenna mostly emit sideways (when vertical).
I'm window shopping for a mobile ham radio, and almost studying for my technician test. I'm glad you pointed this out, and I'll be looking for it next video. 👍
hahah I participated in a school rocketry competition last week and we actually developed a omnidirectional antenna for the gps (that also has problems like that).
I love micro center. I try to visit them every time I visit the states.
6:51 The boss becomes the Intern. Very humbling. I'm taking life lessons from this.
Just a quick tip for painting, if it needs to be very sturdy good looking and fast there are 2k spray can's. You can speed up the curing of the 2k paint by like you do with normal epoxy heating it to around 60°C. If you store the paint in the fridge you can get up to 24h once activated so you have time for multiple layers and sanding if necessary. Looking forward to the flight video ☺️
It was super cool being there to see your certification! It was a fantastic flight!
I love how you perfectly summed up High powered rocketry here. Amazing cinematography
I dont know if this was already posted but for the painting with stencils, try to paint the rocket in red, then apply the stencil, then spray the stencils also with red, let it dry and then spray a layer of white above it. This re-painting with red spray color seals all the cracks for the white layer. Should result in way cleaner edges! This is a technique from painting clean edges on walls ;)
Congrats for the Launch!
Love your thumbnail here, my carbon fiber M1315 minimum diameter is in the background!
L.D.R.S. XL
GREAT JOB!!! SEND IT AGAIN!!!!!
LOL at the Turbo Encabulator, but 100% on the Hot Glue! Love that stuff.
tip for painting stencils and masks - do the first coat in the body color to seal the stencil and then have at it with the lettering color!
I've never seen a micro center sponsor. Nice job man!
I want to get back into model rockets again - was simple 3 stage Estes rockets as a kid... Hoping to go have some fun with my amazing grandson 😎😎😎
Thank you for easy and detailed construction of high power rockets!!
Congratulations Joe! Wish you the best ahead in your racketeering journey! It is very impressive how far you've gone and I cannot wait to see where your adventures take you. Hopefully you can make this your everyday job if it isn't already :D
man this turbo encabulator is so good, has so many use cases
Congratulations! Loved the video and the build. One trick for stencils is to seal the stencil with the base color before going with final color.
Glad to see your still uploading!
Just went out to the Black Rock desert event last weekend to launch a 2 stage rocket to 150k. Unfortunate to say that the wind killed the flight, but it’s videos like these that remind me to brush the dust off and try again!
Congrats Joe for your L3 certification and this awesome rocket. Love your videos, keep on uploading quality content so UA-cam gets more useful each time !
A top tip I use when doing airbrushing stencils is to hit it with the base colour to help seal it first. Then any bleed is basically invisible and you finish with the top coat as normal.
Got my l1 and l2 last fall. this is making me want to go all the way. the cost is not on the otherhand XD
I did rockets for the first time in grade school, around 1970. There were no "High Power Rocketry" certifications back then; in fact, due to NAR Safety Code, it was technically *illegal* to launch even a G motor rocket (these days, High Power is H and higher impulse).
When I flew them again in the 1990s, I got my NAR Level 1 on the first try; to make a point I used *no epoxy* in the entire rocket, and super glue only to hold lead shot ballast at the tip of the nose cone. All rocket parts were plywood or paper (aka cardboard) tube, all structural glue was Titebond II, except for PVC pipe cement for the quick-change positive motor retention system I designed (pipe cement bonded the threaded plastic pipe piece to the actual motor mount tube).
The rocket flew flawlessly on an Aerotech H128, recovered correctly (using motor ejection and a deep bed of blow-in insulation material to protect the parachute, and recovered with no damage (as required).
No long after that, I dropped out of hobby rocketry, because I couldn't see being able to launch anything bigger than that rocket even once a year. Not just the cost of motors/propellant reloads -- but the travel cost to get anywhere it was legal/safe to launch bigger vehicles.
Awesome to have you back!!!
Wow! Congrats on such a good flight. Just imagine everything that comes from a level 3 certification!
Also,
QUIET ON THE SET!
QUIET ON THE SET PLEASE
QUIET ON _SET_
Level 4? 😉
Many years ago, I was at a fish and chips shop in Melbourne, Australia and was asked "Do you want minimum chips or less?" Your discussion of minimum and sub-minimum gave me flashbacks.
To infinity and beyond. Awesome work mate
Nice!! Congrats on the level 3
Glad to see you be responsible with your health and a big congratz Man.
Joe is one of the big inspirations that caused me to quit my job and start my own company. It's a tiny one-man company that does whole-systems engineering and it still looks stupid since I havent finished anything yet but I love it. I love my new life.
I've seen a lot of painting tips, but you should try picking up a cricut! You can cut perfect vinyl stencils that you can spray over and peel off.
Nice build, never thought of the push in type key, I switched to magnet switches so it’s much easier.
Amazing, just amazing, you're really motivational and one hopes to reach your level one day.
Bless you.
Good job. Great Launch.
Good launch Joe. Thanks a lot for the books to read and for inspire me not to give up, like spaceX. I am finishing some projects to start and focus all time on a landing rc rocket project on September (not to orbit but as high as legally possible in Spain). I dream with a shop like this in Spain. "Edited in 2030: I keep dreaming with a shop like this in my country"
Quiet on the set plz!
Thank you again for your next masterpiece of rocketry and entertainment!
I think im not the only one who loves your videos.
Regards from germany!
You make something incredibly difficult seem totally doable - way to go!
that shot of the rocket through the hole in the metal after the camera falls over is so good
Was awesome to see so many BPS interns scurrying around the desert, but I hope you remembered to feed them all.
The fact you managed to put in a turbo encabulator in your rocket blows my mind, must have been quite the advancement in prefabulated amulite pyrotechnics to get it to this state! Big advancement to amateur rocketry.
Great job! Really liking that red on the rocket.
Love all your videos! You make it feel like I'm right there with you. Great video skills, and great content. THANK YOU!!
Many congrats on the flight!
Hot glue is a Godsent. Works every time. Also I like to desolder screw terminals, and directly solder the wires to the pcb for mission critical stuff, fix pcb connectors with zip ties to the board itself (probably not a great idea if the connector has to be pulled out fast for some reason ) add some more hot glue, say some prayers, knock on some wood and it's ready to go.
Zip ties, hot glue and tape are the holy trinity of engineering probably, if your hardware does not have all three it's destined to fail.
Thank You for the Turbo Encabulator reference, well done sir 👏
Best ad segment I've seen in a while
Amazing as ever. Keep up the good work
HAHA!
Turbo-Encabulator!!!
Also, props on L3
interesting usage of those WAGO connectors. I used one I once got on the Hannover Messe on my sim racing steering wheel, and it held up pretty well to the extreme rattling and shaking, with way too many cables crammed in :D
Wow! Epoxy really does have a kick and nice taste. Thanks for the recommendation :)
My guy, your videos are making me want to get into model rocketry! So cool!!
The trick to shopping at microcenter: So you are not paying $4.99 for a resistor that digikey sells a roll of 10,000 for $5 is peel the price tags off cheap things and put them on expensive , plus then the 400% mark up that micro center charges. A new Fluke multi-meter for $4.99? Well the kid at the counter getting paid min wage doesn't know that and the 10,000,000% mark up you have paid on resistors over the years for when you couldnt wait for digikey, still keeps those profits healthy! Thats why I recommend microcenter and a good set of finger nails!
I built a custom designed rocket when I was a kid, about this size, and put a pile of Estes D engines in it. I admired it for years then finally decided to launch it. When I launched it, it took off so fast and kept going higher until it disappeared. Never saw it again. Hahaha.
Congradulations on the L3 joe
Every video makes me even more excited for the bps projects and for my own rocket building ❤️
this is awesome! congrats on the L3!
Congrats!! Totally nailed it 😎
So here we come again 🔥
I know its probably nit picking, but i agree with the comment on the connector hatch, i think its good to get in the habit of not letting the 2 redundant systems share one or more parts, you dont think it could fail, but u probably think the same about all the other parts
Nice build, can't wait to see it launch. :)
Inspirational as always Joe. You're amazing!
If you like hot glue, you're going to love UV-curing resin adhesive. It is cheap, applies with the consistency of hot glue except with less finger-burning potential, and cures in seconds when hit with a commodity 365nm UV flashlight. It is substantially more temperature tolerant than hot glue, and somewhat more compatible with simple cleaning solvents like alcohols if that's important in your application.
Unless I'm definitely sure I'll need to remove something easily and with no residue and surface marring, I always grab my UV resin first these days as it's a big timesaver compared to waiting for the hot glue gun to heat up and for the glue to harden without dripping down into places it shouldn't.
Always look forward to your content...great stuff.
Holly bat shit batman! Your production skills have reach new heights dude! Hope you have as much fun making them as we do watching :)
That’s so awesome! Such a great video and congrats!
Real clever use of those wagos!
Ive been watching your videos for a long time and i been wanting your falcon 9 heavy rocket forever.
we are building ours now for our senior capstone project at UVU. We are building an active drag system for ours so we can hit a very specific height and hopefully make it to spaceport ameica cup this fall.
Love you. Love the videos. Love the rockets. HATE hot glue with the burning hate of an exploding star. It gets too hot, it softens and lets go. It gets too cold, it just lets go.
The acetone may soak into composites and reduce structural integrity. If you're ever pushing the strength limits, it would be wise to do your acetone wipe long before you paint to give plenty of time for the solvent to work its way back out.
Love how multidisciplinary your projects are!
Congratulations dude 👏 🙌 👌 💙 👍 😀
Man oh man i need to be in a rocket team or something.
Boi that sure requires a lot of work with your hands
Programmer > Engineer
Wow, what a great rabbit hole!
Congrats on the L3!
hi , its amazing your rocket!!! , its powerfull !! and smarter by it electronics, i build many rockets in 2008 and byond in morocco , now i am far way from this activity because work and money, your movie inspered me again to goback to rocketery. best regards