When dealing with a split phase system, always keep your cables at the same length. If both your ground and power cable on one inverter is six foot, then on the other inverter do the same. This keeps both inverters in sink better. If not one inverter will run with less voltage, watts, and ohms while the other inverter is pushing more. In a solar system everything has to be equal. Your running on batteries and panels. Totally different from a grid type system. Just a little fault means the difference of having to replace something. When working with electrical always remember the water hose example. The longer the hose the less pressure of water coming from the hose, the shorter the hose the more pressure coming from the hose. I had to learn the hard way and now I have a system that runs pretty good. Note: also you want to keep all your cables on your batteries the same link as well.
I noticed his very same design flaw, not only lithiums system but one that Will Prowse put together, Luckily I caught this before I put my split face together, and I agree, I ran my battery cables the same length as well.
Would love to know how you "learned this the hard way." All U.S. homes are split phase and the wiring and loads are never identical and 50/50. By your logic transformers should be failing on service poles at alarming rates.
@@cyumadbrosummit3534 First off your funny with you sarcastic response. Yes nothing is ever identical but in electric you want to keep them as identical as you can. 4 Foot wire for power use a 4 foot wire for ground. If you are using 2 inverters to get your 220/240 ac, use all the same size wires. What I meant about learning it the hard ways was that when you have 2 systems running 220/240 ac and one of your inverters has longer wires then the other you will notice higher amps running to one and lower amps running to the others, so far so that in some cases you will start to burn out terminals and other connecting areas for wires. I lost a whole inverter because of higher amps burning out the terminals. So now everything is the same all is pre cut and clamp. Electrical can be unpredictable and items burn out. Had to redo my whole entire system. Of course this was back when solar was first being used. I have learned a lot in the many years I have work with solar and grid systems.
@@cyumadbrosummit3534 - I'm no electrician, but I think a fair analysis is that on a Utility Line split phase, both the continuous amount of source voltage/ current, and the size of Step Down transformers utilized en-route to your house are capable of minimizing resistance loss to near zero. And I also believe that on an inverter system, small differences in wire length have a near zero impact on power transmission loss due to resistance (or inverter performance). But it's clear that such a system is far less capable of compensating for any loss than the Grid, so it's probably best to get the wires as close as possible to the same length (if at all possible). On my setup I'm going to try to do exactly that. They won't be exactly the same length, but they will be less than 2 feet in difference (with 4/0 copper battery wire and 4AWG to the panel). And you can have greater differences in wire length (and less voltage drop) when you utilize larger gauge wire (obviously).
@@jamesrcoleii4577 I can't speak for the system you may have had years ago, but the system shown in the video has the two inverters operating independently and as such there is no need for the cable lengths going from the bus bars to the inverters to be similar. They don't have any load sharing going on so there is no way for one to be favored due to cable length. The only place you should ensure cables are of similar length here is for multiple paralleled batteries going to those DC bus bars. This is mostly covered in the video by pulling the negative and positive from opposite corners of the battery packs. That is an industry standard way of connecting four batteries together for moderately good load sharing, though not quite as good as having each battery have an equal length cable to the DC bus bar.
Seriously best video I’ve seen so far regarding setting up an off grid system. I’ve watched 100s of videos and not one goes into detail or provides the step by step setup that you describe in your video. You legit gave me the confidence and peace of mind to be able to try this type of setup. Thank you so much. Please keep posting in the same manner with the same level of detail! I am sure I speak for everyone here when I say something thank you for the clarity and ease of understanding.
I give a warning on those class T fuse connectors. I used this style for hooking up my bare wires, The wires had slipped and melted and almost caused a fire. Since then I only use wires with copper lugs attached to them. No problem since. 🖖
For your question about swiches/breakers at 4:50 I used MCCB molded case 2P beakers from TAIXI for about $100- these are available in 200/300/400 A DC-rated configuration. I also (like you) installed the T-Class fuses, since the breaker is mostly used as a convenient disconnect while the T-Class is for safety. Great Vid, keep em coming.
SOK Rack Batteries... www.currentconnected.com/product/sk48v100/?ref=lithiumsolar (affiliate links) MPP Solar Inverter... www.currentconnected.com/product/mpp-lv6548/?ref=lithiumsolar Let me know what you think! Also yes, I know I did not connect any solar panels in the video and yes, I know grounding was not discussed.
The drier tumble motor normally operates on one leg (120). My drier pulls around 1.3-4 amps extra on one leg. The delta drops as the clothes dry and the tumble motor draws less amps.
I suspect the difference in amps on the inverter is because the dryer motor is probably 120 volts? So it would be plausible that one inverter might bear a little larger load because of that.
Yes, the drum motor is 120V. Plus all the other electronics is 120V as well, or at least pulls from 1 leg and then regulated from there. So yeah, I agree with this assessment
Nice job changing the main bonding jumper to a #6! I also like how you finished the run to the source of the inverters in #6. I believe the EMT should have a bonding bushing with the main bonding jumper attached since you are extending the run from the inverters to the electrical box. Otherwise, it looks really good.
Excellent video and instruction. My only caveat, OCD Electrical Engineer warning, is in the dryer test section before final thoughts. You multiplied the current by 48V for power. One should measure the actual voltage for accuracy in calculations. It is more than 48V. Each 1V adds 118W to the total. A typical 48V system is actually 52V or more on average. That would be almost 480W more than the figure you calculated. At 48V, the battery system is close to empty. Thanks again for such a detailed video. These methods/ principles apply to almost any system.
very nice video, learned a lot. a small trick i learned is to mark all connections you did check the torque on is to mark them with a permanent marker. so you can easily keep track of what is tightened correctly
You mentioned not using a ferrule for the multi strand cable / lug connection. Another option is to use a piece of copper sheet (shim) wrapped around the conductor bundle. I've made Cam-Lok cables in the past and you get a copper shim with each connector fir this purpose.
I really like your videos. And, I have a suggestion for a video. To my knowledge, there is no comprehensive video out there showing how to properly wire a Motorhome lithium battery system using Victron (or other) components. To include a DC to DC charger for protection of the alternator. What to do about the existing cross-connect switch for the house/starter batteries. Wiring the Inverter and Controller. And, properly replacing the motorhome's existing Charger/Converter. Also discussing potential problems (if any) when hooked to shore power while the solar charging system is still active. If you made such a video I think it would be very popular. Thanks.
Great setup! I'm planning on doing a backup power storage for my NAS and video surveillance system. Luckily I won't be needing any inverter or such complications, just a good LiFePo 24v battery and a beefy 12v buck converter to meet the current demands. Wish me luck 😂👌🏼
Fantastic video that’s a lot for the help Really a big help Very nice and neat setup I wish I stayed with MPP instead of going with signature solar for my 6000ex I never had any issues with my LV2424 and if I did I had a answer within 24 hours Great costumer service
You've done such a great job building your channel since you started that you should be proud and pleased with your accomplishments. I knew that your channel would take off the first time I watched it several years ago and spread your name to some of the groups I belong to. Keep up with the good work and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Your video is excellent. Short to the point and shows what is needed to do. Thumb up for you and I will subscribe. For years I have used the 3kw (still do) for the whole house with NO 220V using recycle battery pack built in 100P 18650 cells. They are quite a pain and time consuming to build and rebuild every few years due to the recycle nature to start with. Now with the price drop of LFP battery it is time to buy them new and new inverter that can do 220V and online monitoring capability. 3000W is plenty enough to run the whole house on 110V that is as i had been using that way for 4 years. 220V for the whole house 10k to 12kw inverter will do for most people. Battery cost is the factor for a lot of people. That is NO longer true as they are quite affordable now. I build the whole thing up just like what you are doing. It is a fantastic hobby as there is NOT a day any of us not using power in this case we harness the photons from the sun into electrons which is truly a clean sustainable energy. Not many people realize or know that these batteries will last longer than a decade so it will pay off for the investment in a short time and never have to worry about electrical outage when mother of nature strikes. I live in Fl and mother of nature is NOT very friendly for us here!!!!!!! I will never do grid tie never was and never will. Too many people do not know going off grid does not cost that much more and never have to muck around with the utility company for that stinky net metering credit they pay. What a joke of that net metering and the cost of installing one. NO wonder people are not doing more of solar even just nearly everyone wants to. Honestly who would NOT like NOT to ever have an electric bill monthly again until death?????!!!!! The more of us doing this the better and i find your videos to be excellent!!!!!!
Very good quality install, that system would be great for small cabin, fine job fine job. Can only dream about having that system. I have 400w panels, 400ah agm batteries and 1000w inverter. Keep putting out the great info.
Your electric dryer is so green! You will single handedly save the planet (saving it from irresponsible idiots like me that have a propane dryer in my off grid solar house).
What exactly are you going on about? I never said anything in this video about being "green", saving the planet, or against propane dryers. There's nothing wrong with propane dryers.
@@LithiumSolar Sorry. Most solar off grid people are so anal about avoiding co2 generation (you know, they are single handedly saving the planet) and use electric everything. I built my system before global warming and propane seemed a logical way to avoid high drain electrical loads.
This inverters are produced by the Chinese manufacturer called „Voltronic“. The EG4 inverters are also the same but only a different branding. In spain you can by this engines from „MasterPower“ and and and … 😅 Thanks for this very good Video. Best regards from Germany.
As soon as there is a screw involved in a terminal you should use a ferule on fine stranded wires, otherwise the screw can damage the wires an it can become loose
Nice video. I appreciated the info re the inverter airflow as I thought mine had the fans in reverse. I don't know why they did them that way. I think the difference in loads on the inverters are due to the different cable lengths to the bus bars.
I was trained early in highschool wiring homes, next wiring military aircraft, last wiring helicopters for geophysics surveying. Always, every wire in braided wires, is neatly cut, before bonding to a clamp. For example, if you have a 12 wire strand, you can loose only 2 strands. In gauges 0 to 10, it’s not discussed by in data wiring it’s crucial. In a Tesla car, with very high currents, wiring curves dramatically affect power transmission. New DC charging systems, for Cybertruck and Semi truck are 1 giga watt at 1,000 volts, and you can imagine the field flux of these wires. For those serious, about charging Tesla vehicles at fast rates should understand neatness of wiring.
You need to provide an earth ground someplace in your system. Bonding is okay but will not prevent current flow to one of the metal boxes in case of a short. To earth bond will protect by tripping a breaker or the T fuse on one side or the other. This is very important. Using only the auto-transformer neutral does nothing to protect your safety in such an event. This is similar to generators with no earth anchor where you have a floating neutral and also the possibility of turning the entire frame of the generator into a conductor for current. One touch in such a situation and you are electrocuted. It's not all that common an occurence so most 'take a chance' and avoid use of the earth ground, however to be safe you should go back and edit this video so no one follows your lead and loses their life or health. It is true you are earth grounded once you connect to your dryer, however with some other type connections, you are not. For instance if you install a receptacle box with duplex receptacle there is no ground to earth available which means your neutral and ground connection on the receptacle are connected. And if your hot leg is shorted to the box it's possible to get zapped because your set up will not take the hot short to earth ground and trip a breaker. Using the common ground in you AC box is good and bonding is okay but only if the ground is actually "grounded".
You are exactly right on the Blue Sea 48V breakers. I commend their service and sales folks for being forthright about the limits of their products, to ensure the safety of their customers. 60V DC 200amp breakers rated to not arc while shut off under load can be expensive, but worth it if something goes hot.
Nice clean setup. You do a great job of explaining the whole installation. First I would say the unit can take 4 awg. It’s a royal pain to get in there. I covered it in a video I made after I installed my 2 lv6548’s. The reason they recommend the gauge is mostly due to the surge in my opinion. But it’s worth the effort I would say. Even more so for the input. Although I realize you won’t be using that aspect of it. Also I would caution against having your main fuse box in that location. The units do vent out of the bottom. But a lot of the heat also vents from those side vents towards the bottom also. Once you have a large load or are charging you can check and see. They really need the full clearance from top to bottom with no obstructions. And Watts247 carries really great dc fuse/circuit breakers. I still plan on getting a couple 200 amp ones from Ian. He also has 150 amp. They are extremely heavy duty.
Nice job mounting your equipment. You should not block the venting for the inverters like you did with your electrical box. When they run under high load quite some heat will blow out of these venting holes. Since you blocked half on each inverter the internal overheating protection will shut them off.
As always very detailed and accurate. Would be nice to see a unbalance load with the 120 on one inverter high then the large 240 load put on similar to a real life situation.
Since they each handle one phase that would be a fairly boring test. Dual phase inverters like the mpp6048 would be a different story I guess. They can only handle so much of a lopsided load before a warning code occurs. That really wouldn’t happen with these. So far I haven’t had an issue with mine. Running well and water heater as well as smaller loads.
I prefer battery breakers instead of fuses, in particular Nader 200A 60V breakers available from Signature Solar. They can run at high currents (130Amps) without getting hot. Also 4/0 cables are best for ALL battery cables into the LV6548 otherwise the excessive wire resistance at high currents will cause wrong battery voltages to be measured inside the LV6548 units which will lead to bad decision making (in float and bulk) as the units charge the batteries, or use measured battery voltages to decide to switch to grid power (SBU mode). Even with 4/0 cables the voltages could be off by almost a volt at 100 Amp currents from the batteries to each LV6548. The LV6548 units do NOT have separate, low current battery voltage sense wires which you could tie to the battery terminals directly.
Yes, the battery cables are a bit undersized here in this DEMO setup. It is not a permanent installation nor is it intended to be something people should copy exactly as-is.
You ran wire through the knockout of the inverter without using a bushing. Also, you hooked a 50amp cord to a 30a breaker for your dryer test. Stay safe! I thought the inverters idle power consumption was excessive, but I don't own big units like that, so maybe it's normal.
You must have missed the comments made where this was a test setup. Also, that's a 30A cord, it's 10awg. Even if it were rated for 50A, it doesn't matter as it's on a 30A breaker anyway.
@@LithiumSolar At time stamp 9:44 you talked about having flattening the wire. We use them a lot where I work at for better gripping on those type of connectors. Just a thought
@@danielturek7334 This is THHN wire. I've never heard of putting a ferrule on THHN wire. What type of wire are you using where you're using them? They're typically only used with finer strands.
Hey! Great video! Its great to see fully detailed installation videos like these! I also went with that same amazon t class fuse, but I also added one of those bluesea red battery switches to make disconnecting easier. The connections are on the back so I dont love it. Ive been eyeing the "Suntree" DC breakers sold on the Renogy amazon stores but theyre expensive at around $100. Havent seen anyone used those yet!
Thanks, Is there a type of backer board you would recommend? I'm just going to head to the improvement story now. I think cement board would be hard to drill into.
HardieBacker cement backerboard is the stuff you want. Do not get the "USG Durock Board" stuff. It's impossible to cut without specialized tools and that epoxy smell never goes away. The HardieBacker can be screwed with regular screws that have a point on the end. It's fibrous, not a solid piece of rock like the name "cement board" suggests.
Nice video but I would like to see information about running and standby/idle mode energy use. That information would be extremely useful for those of those that have minimal solar energy available.
Replying to my own question I know it was stated that approximately 120 watts was being used with no power throughput. Is there another mode other than just off?
i notice that you didn't install a shunt. is that because you don't expect to ever need to measure the current easily? or just want to use a clamp meter and cut expenses? i bought a smart shunt so i could use my cellphone to check on batteries/power without going to the system.
The reason you are seeing a current difference between the two is the one in the right has a much longer wire so you may be seeing a slight voltage drop compared to the one be of the left.
I know you've uploaded video for solar panel Array but it would be nice to upload again for this split phase , like big array and you test loads same time
I have the same LV6548 setup with SOK batteries except not the server rack type. What I can’t figure out is why the battery voltage on one inverter is different than the other? It’s always .3 to .4 off. For example one inverter is at 54 volts and the other one at 54.4. When I measure the voltage with my meter on each inverter, they both match to what inverter 2 says. Inverter 1 shows a lower voltage. I also have to mention that inverter 1 was bought several months before inverter 2.
Nice install. I’m using the same two. Three primary concerns. The beaker box may be partially blocking the exhaust. These inverters in my opinion have poor fan design to begin with. The sound they make tends to make believe the fans are entering a stalled state. Much like the sound of a plugged vacuum cleaner. Be sure you vacuum the foam filter often. The cables from the busses give the right inverter a longer run and and a greater voltage drop than the left(see pg 45 in pamphlet). I would equalize the length AND jump up to 2/0 (even though the manual says it’s acceptable). Why equal length is important is when you start pulling heavy imbalances loads(more load on one leg to neutral then the other leg to neutral). When you get a DC voltage imbalance you may get a # 83 fault (see pg58). Also the 1/0 wire will get toasty at 3/4 load and could trigger a premature low voltage shutdown or back to grid if you have that set. Lastly your bonding at that panel is probably correct for your situation but I believe you need to run a ground rod directly below the inverters or directly behind the wall. Suggestion: get a DuroMax XP9000iH dual fuel inverter generator. It can be controlled by the inverters. What’s alarming is you broke the terminal block! Now that worries me. The #6 Thhn wire is fine and seems to be what everyone is using. You would have been fine using the Blue Sea brand 200 amp breaker. True it says 48 volt max but that would mean it could never work on any 48V marine application which they do all the time. After all, any 48v dc system is going to be over 50 volts during charge. I think you spoke with someone that just reads documentation and won’t go find an answer. Haven’t had any problems with mine however I do use precharge resistors to eliminate pitted contacts. Again, nice setup.
One other concern is he didn't use any form of protection on the battery cables entrance into the Inverter housing. This model comes with nylon cable glands.
Why did you use one live wire for one inverter to be black and another live wire for another inverter to be red? And since you connected neutral wires and ground wires from both inverter touch one another, can I also let two live wires from two inverters touch one another? Thanks.
@@LithiumSolar lol. Im running my entire home, shop, barn off my system. The only thing i dont have on it is my hot water heater. And I'm trying to figure out a boiler system for it. My hot water heater uses 49% of my total energy consumption.
Very nice! These will be powering mine here soon. I'll be rebuilding my power shed here in the spring, just didn't have time last fall. Have you considered a hybrid heat-pump water heater? I installed one a couple of years ago and significantly reduced my water heating costs vs the old electric style.
@@LithiumSolar i have, just didn't know anyone using one to compare. You are running yours off your inverters? I have 4 teenagers plus me and ma'ma my hot water heater is a killer.. Lol
One other topic is the use of one inverter with 120/240 split phase capability rather than the 2 interconnected one's. Not sure the reason behind interest in this type set up as it confounds the wiring much more when 2 are used to provide split phase. Sigineer, Aims, SunGold Power are some of those that provide split phase in one unit. Wiring is much simpler with fewer connections required. Much more reliable as well due to the simplicity of wiring. Available in similar input and output with some even larger for off-grid type installation. I see videos where builds are based on 2 units to produce split phase and could never understand why anyone would choose this set up.
I haven't really seen anything affordable over 5kW that can be paired with split phase. I priced a set up for funsies and just came to the conclusion of running two separate 12kW split phase inverters. Cheap and effective. The only added cost being another breaker panel, but big whoop.
If you are OFF GRID and use a 2 pc inverter vs. one for split phase, you have some insurance of having some power (120v) if there's an inverter failure as opposed to ZERO power with the all in one unit.
Ok,so you mentioned the 4/0 from the battery to the bus bars not needing to be the same length. Can explain that ? Thanks and great video. Just preparing to wire up 4 of the sok’s myself
Because he inverted the order for negative versus positive, he's already "evened" out the difference between batteries which is the only difference that matters. His negative cable could be a hundred feet long for all that it matters and although it would add a bunch of resistance that isn't good, it would add it EQUALLY to each battery, thus them all being in balance. IE it's not that negative and positive to each battery has to be balanced, it's that the total length (resistance) of each battery has to be balanced. Hope that helps!
The length (from rack to busbar) doesn't matter because it's one circuit. The current only has one path to flow. The place where it matters is when you have multiple runs coming together. For example, if I had two racks of SOK batteries, I would want the cables from each rack going to the common point (busbar) to be the same length. In the case of 2 racks, if the cables to each were not the same length, the battery with the shorter cables would be doing more "work" because of less resistance in the cabling. I hope that makes sense, I'm not the best at explaining in words.
Others have mentioned the need for a grounding rod to tie the chassis to ground. The 120/240 is always the voltage between the 2 lines, but without a ground rod tieing it to ground, the ground will float. In my case, I measured 170V between the case and ground when not properly grounded. Copper ground rod, proper connection, problem solved. I know you have one and it wasn’t shown, just important to mention. If you have to Google grounding versus bonding, please call an electrician.
Great video! Please help: I don't speak much English but I want to ask you why in split-phase and not in parallel? I live in Europe and I need 220V for utilities, I have the same two inverters and I want to create a system that allows me to manage batteries and home consumption. If I wanted to put them in parallel, do I have to connect them both to phase and neutral or just one of the two? Can you make a video about it? Thank you
That would be me, actually my 13000 watt kit was $15,800 delivered. That does not include the ground mount or switches and wiring, I figure about another $5,000. I will be installing it myself. Took 53 years of hard work to get where I am at.
Thanks for all your videos, I am building a very similar system. I have question and cannot find any video about it. I am guessing that you need to even your arrays between both mpp, like array 1 on each mpp. How about between array 1 and 2 on the same mpp, does it make a difference if you close to max out one array and the second have not even half the rating?
I am using the sungold power version of these exact same machines. They look identical except for color. Programs also work the same way How do you get the inverters to communicate with the batteries? My batteries are at a very low state of charge but are not completely drained. Because the voltage has not changed much, the inverter register them as being nearly 100% and will not charge with utility power . I have also tried hooking these up to four 460 W solar panels. The panels are bringing in the correct voltage but are bringing in no watts or amp and I cannot figure out why.
I had an electrician install an interlock kit and a 30 amp inlet so I can plug in my gas generator. Can I plug this system into that 3 amp inlet, just like my generator. If so what do I need to add or take away to make this system apply to my situation Thanks for your help in advance!
Awesome video! What would be the difference if you used two LVX6048WP inverters? Second, do you use the ground neutral bond the same on a boat? THANKS!
@@LithiumSolar hmmm. Saw stranded wire that you referred to, but relistening, you called “‘round” wire. U meant solid, I think, I saw and thought stranded.
@@johnnydfred It's THHN wire and contains 19 strands for #6. When you strip the insulation off, yes, it's round. I unwrapped the strands a bit so it was no longer round and better matched the square profile of the terminal. It's not solid wire.
I'll be doing something similar. I bought two jakiper batteries and will be ordering either a 6000w or 8000w MPP inverter charger. I don't don't need two. I'll buy two more jakiper batteries in a few months. You should have contacted the batteries together with bus bars rather than daisy chaining them. I will be making my own bus bars from flat solid copper bar stock with standoff insulators and custom made made Perspex covers. Lucky for me my father was an electrician, a mate I have is one and one of my cousin's husband is one as well but also a licenced solar installer... I will be running the circuits in my house which will also be connected to the grid via a three way changeover switch just in case.. I still don't get what split phase mode is
It's not a grid-tie inverter. I assume by "grid feed" you mean connecting the AC input and using the built-in transfer switch on a subpanel. Yes, I could do that. I just don't want to use it that way.
@@LithiumSolar Yes I know it’s an off grid inverter, however it can still be feed by the grid. A google search says that TUV certification is excepted in North America.
These inverters are 120V each and are intended for the US market. You would need 2 to get 240V; however, I'd suggest looking for a model intended for your country's electrical system.
Great video! What kind of board are you using to mount all those equipment? Cement board? BTW, what does Watt247 say about ground rod for earth ground, does it need for full off-grid system?
what a lovely video. you are promoting the lifepo4 batteries and in disclaimer saying that people need to get professional advise. Well, professional would never ever suggest to buy those batteries, - cause there is no warranty. But still you are here and promoting it again and again.
@@LithiumSolar you also have an affiliate link where to buy them. so it's not a hobby anymore, - it's a business. Maybe I missed it, - but please, - do tell people at the very beginning of the video the same. If you have nothing to lose, - is okay. Others probably won't afford to lose everything. Thank you.
After watching the end of the film, could the difference in the power output of the inverters be because of the different length of the positive leads that I mentioned?
So is this the future of home power? What happens when there is no sunshine? How long will the batteries maintain power to the home? So, off the grid is better than staying on the grid?
It can be grid connected, (not grid tied) so batteries always are topped off overnight at lower rates if the sun isn't cooperating. That model has a 120amp ac to DC charger built in as well as a 120amp MPPT solar charger.
would you mind testing the talentcell 170ah bluetooth lifepo4 from Amazon please? According to the manufacturer, the cells are 177ah, 150a bms, low temp cut off and it's the same size as the regular 100ah. It's reasonably priced at around $550.
When dealing with a split phase system, always keep your cables at the same length. If both your ground and power cable on one inverter is six foot, then on the other inverter do the same. This keeps both inverters in sink better. If not one inverter will run with less voltage, watts, and ohms while the other inverter is pushing more. In a solar system everything has to be equal. Your running on batteries and panels. Totally different from a grid type system. Just a little fault means the difference of having to replace something. When working with electrical always remember the water hose example. The longer the hose the less pressure of water coming from the hose, the shorter the hose the more pressure coming from the hose. I had to learn the hard way and now I have a system that runs pretty good. Note: also you want to keep all your cables on your batteries the same link as well.
I noticed his very same design flaw, not only lithiums system but one that Will Prowse put together,
Luckily I caught this before I put my split face together, and I agree, I ran my battery cables the same length as well.
Would love to know how you "learned this the hard way." All U.S. homes are split phase and the wiring and loads are never identical and 50/50. By your logic transformers should be failing on service poles at alarming rates.
@@cyumadbrosummit3534 First off your funny with you sarcastic response. Yes nothing is ever identical but in electric you want to keep them as identical as you can. 4 Foot wire for power use a 4 foot wire for ground. If you are using 2 inverters to get your 220/240 ac, use all the same size wires. What I meant about learning it the hard ways was that when you have 2 systems running 220/240 ac and one of your inverters has longer wires then the other you will notice higher amps running to one and lower amps running to the others, so far so that in some cases you will start to burn out terminals and other connecting areas for wires. I lost a whole inverter because of higher amps burning out the terminals. So now everything is the same all is pre cut and clamp. Electrical can be unpredictable and items burn out. Had to redo my whole entire system. Of course this was back when solar was first being used. I have learned a lot in the many years I have work with solar and grid systems.
@@cyumadbrosummit3534 - I'm no electrician, but I think a fair analysis is that on a Utility Line split phase, both the continuous amount of source voltage/ current, and the size of Step Down transformers utilized en-route to your house are capable of minimizing resistance loss to near zero. And I also believe that on an inverter system, small differences in wire length have a near zero impact on power transmission loss due to resistance (or inverter performance).
But it's clear that such a system is far less capable of compensating for any loss than the Grid, so it's probably best to get the wires as close as possible to the same length (if at all possible). On my setup I'm going to try to do exactly that. They won't be exactly the same length, but they will be less than 2 feet in difference (with 4/0 copper battery wire and 4AWG to the panel). And you can have greater differences in wire length (and less voltage drop) when you utilize larger gauge wire (obviously).
@@jamesrcoleii4577 I can't speak for the system you may have had years ago, but the system shown in the video has the two inverters operating independently and as such there is no need for the cable lengths going from the bus bars to the inverters to be similar. They don't have any load sharing going on so there is no way for one to be favored due to cable length. The only place you should ensure cables are of similar length here is for multiple paralleled batteries going to those DC bus bars. This is mostly covered in the video by pulling the negative and positive from opposite corners of the battery packs. That is an industry standard way of connecting four batteries together for moderately good load sharing, though not quite as good as having each battery have an equal length cable to the DC bus bar.
Seriously best video I’ve seen so far regarding setting up an off grid system. I’ve watched 100s of videos and not one goes into detail or provides the step by step setup that you describe in your video. You legit gave me the confidence and peace of mind to be able to try this type of setup. Thank you so much. Please keep posting in the same manner with the same level of detail! I am sure I speak for everyone here when I say something thank you for the clarity and ease of understanding.
Thanks for the fantastic video. I recognise and appreciate the extra amount of time it takes to film a setup like this :)
I give a warning on those class T fuse connectors. I used this style for hooking up my bare wires, The wires had slipped and melted and almost caused a fire.
Since then I only use wires with copper lugs attached to them. No problem since. 🖖
For your question about swiches/breakers at 4:50 I used MCCB molded case 2P beakers from TAIXI for about $100- these are available in 200/300/400 A DC-rated configuration. I also (like you) installed the T-Class fuses, since the breaker is mostly used as a convenient disconnect while the T-Class is for safety. Great Vid, keep em coming.
SOK Rack Batteries... www.currentconnected.com/product/sk48v100/?ref=lithiumsolar (affiliate links)
MPP Solar Inverter... www.currentconnected.com/product/mpp-lv6548/?ref=lithiumsolar
Let me know what you think! Also yes, I know I did not connect any solar panels in the video and yes, I know grounding was not discussed.
Try XW4868 have 3 each for 18kw for 15 years
The drier tumble motor normally operates on one leg (120). My drier pulls around 1.3-4 amps extra on one leg. The delta drops as the clothes dry and the tumble motor draws less amps.
I use IotaWatt to monitor my AC consumption.
I suspect the difference in amps on the inverter is because the dryer motor is probably 120 volts? So it would be plausible that one inverter might bear a little larger load because of that.
I think you're exactly right. I'll have to put the clamp meter on the neutral and check.
Yes, the drum motor is 120V. Plus all the other electronics is 120V as well, or at least pulls from 1 leg and then regulated from there.
So yeah, I agree with this assessment
@Danang Alta The heating element is 240V, everything else (motor, lights, control circuits) are likely 120V.
Nice job changing the main bonding jumper to a #6! I also like how you finished the run to the source of the inverters in #6. I believe the EMT should have a bonding bushing with the main bonding jumper attached since you are extending the run from the inverters to the electrical box. Otherwise, it looks really good.
Beautiful set up nice wiring everything its clean and easy to read without drawings
Excellent video and instruction.
My only caveat, OCD Electrical Engineer warning, is in the dryer test section before final thoughts.
You multiplied the current by 48V for power.
One should measure the actual voltage for accuracy in calculations.
It is more than 48V. Each 1V adds 118W to the total.
A typical 48V system is actually 52V or more on average.
That would be almost 480W more than the figure you calculated.
At 48V, the battery system is close to empty.
Thanks again for such a detailed video.
These methods/ principles apply to almost any system.
You were absolutely correct. I was just making a rough guess but 480W is a big difference!
very nice video, learned a lot. a small trick i learned is to mark all connections you did check the torque on is to mark them with a permanent marker. so you can easily keep track of what is tightened correctly
That's a great idea and see it being done in some pieces of equipment as well.
@@LithiumSolar i was using it on large scale power distributions. one question, where do you connect the ground to ground in your system?
Thanks for the advice about getting someone to do it for me, I'm so ignorant but love to watch anyway.
Great video! Blue Sea makes the fuse holder in the style you prefer if you ever need to find them again
SUPER IDEA . SUPER POMYSŁ . POZDRAWIAM .
You mentioned not using a ferrule for the multi strand cable / lug connection. Another option is to use a piece of copper sheet (shim) wrapped around the conductor bundle. I've made Cam-Lok cables in the past and you get a copper shim with each connector fir this purpose.
in the NEC everything used in the electrical installation should used as it was designed to be used and also UL listed for said use.
I really like your videos. And, I have a suggestion for a video. To my knowledge, there is no comprehensive video out there showing how to properly wire a Motorhome lithium battery system using Victron (or other) components. To include a DC to DC charger for protection of the alternator. What to do about the existing cross-connect switch for the house/starter batteries. Wiring the Inverter and Controller. And, properly replacing the motorhome's existing Charger/Converter. Also discussing potential problems (if any) when hooked to shore power while the solar charging system is still active. If you made such a video I think it would be very popular. Thanks.
Good job reviewing and great job editing.
Great setup!
I'm planning on doing a backup power storage for my NAS and video surveillance system. Luckily I won't be needing any inverter or such complications, just a good LiFePo 24v battery and a beefy 12v buck converter to meet the current demands. Wish me luck 😂👌🏼
Fantastic video that’s a lot for the help
Really a big help
Very nice and neat setup
I wish I stayed with MPP instead of going with signature solar for my 6000ex I never had any issues with my LV2424 and if I did I had a answer within 24 hours Great costumer service
You've done such a great job building your channel since you started that you should be proud and pleased with your accomplishments. I knew that your channel would take off the first time I watched it several years ago and spread your name to some of the groups I belong to. Keep up with the good work and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Your video is excellent. Short to the point and shows what is needed to do. Thumb up for you and I will subscribe. For years I have used the 3kw (still do) for the whole house with NO 220V using recycle battery pack built in 100P 18650 cells. They are quite a pain and time consuming to build and rebuild every few years due to the recycle nature to start with.
Now with the price drop of LFP battery it is time to buy them new and new inverter that can do 220V and online monitoring capability. 3000W is plenty enough to run the whole house on 110V that is as i had been using that way for 4 years. 220V for the whole house 10k to 12kw inverter will do for most people. Battery cost is the factor for a lot of people. That is NO longer true as they are quite affordable now.
I build the whole thing up just like what you are doing. It is a fantastic hobby as there is NOT a day any of us not using power in this case we harness the photons from the sun into electrons which is truly a clean sustainable energy.
Not many people realize or know that these batteries will last longer than a decade so it will pay off for the investment in a short time and never have to worry about electrical outage when mother of nature strikes. I live in Fl and mother of nature is NOT very friendly for us here!!!!!!!
I will never do grid tie never was and never will. Too many people do not know going off grid does not cost that much more and never have to muck around with the utility company for that stinky net metering credit they pay. What a joke of that net metering and the cost of installing one. NO wonder people are not doing more of solar even just nearly everyone wants to. Honestly who would NOT like NOT to ever have an electric bill monthly again until death?????!!!!!
The more of us doing this the better and i find your videos to be excellent!!!!!!
Nice clean setup and great detailed description about what you did and why. Thank you for sharing!
Very good quality install, that system would be great for small cabin, fine job fine job. Can only dream about having that system. I have 400w panels, 400ah agm batteries and 1000w inverter. Keep putting out the great info.
Your electric dryer is so green! You will single handedly save the planet (saving it from irresponsible idiots like me that have a propane dryer in my off grid solar house).
What exactly are you going on about? I never said anything in this video about being "green", saving the planet, or against propane dryers. There's nothing wrong with propane dryers.
@@LithiumSolar Sorry. Most solar off grid people are so anal about avoiding co2 generation (you know, they are single handedly saving the planet) and use electric everything. I built my system before global warming and propane seemed a logical way to avoid high drain electrical loads.
@@bearchow1929 I got where you're coming from and know the type LOL. This is strictly a fun hobby for me.
i think you ought to contact MPP and tell them they should change the connectors to match the cable sizes they require...heavy duty!!!
I could, but highly doubt they'll listen to someone like me. They really do need better terminals though...
This inverters are produced by the Chinese manufacturer called „Voltronic“. The EG4 inverters are also the same but only a different branding. In spain you can by this engines from „MasterPower“ and and and … 😅 Thanks for this very good Video. Best regards from Germany.
As soon as there is a screw involved in a terminal you should use a ferule on fine stranded wires, otherwise the screw can damage the wires an it can become loose
and keeps strands bundled so you get all the amps you're paying for.
Always the best 👍
Best regards from Philippines 🇵🇭
Nice video. I appreciated the info re the inverter airflow as I thought mine had the fans in reverse. I don't know why they did them that way. I think the difference in loads on the inverters are due to the different cable lengths to the bus bars.
This is a fantastic video, well done
Like to see, neat. Many DIY UA-cam videos do not not apply neatness.
Neatness is one of the keys to safety. Having cables going everywhere, getting tripped on, bumped, etc is a safety hazard for a number of reasons!
I was trained early in highschool wiring homes, next wiring military aircraft, last wiring helicopters for geophysics surveying. Always, every wire in braided wires, is neatly cut, before bonding to a clamp. For example, if you have a 12 wire strand, you can loose only 2 strands. In gauges 0 to 10, it’s not discussed by in data wiring it’s crucial. In a Tesla car, with very high currents, wiring curves dramatically affect power transmission. New DC charging systems, for Cybertruck and Semi truck are 1 giga watt at 1,000 volts, and you can imagine the field flux of these wires. For those serious, about charging Tesla vehicles at fast rates should understand neatness of wiring.
I used TAIXI TXCM1B MCCB Breakers 2Pole 200A as the Battery DC/Breaker between the LVs and the 1000A battery bus bar.
I'll check them out, thanks! They look similar to the ABB breakers I'm using for my other system.
You need to provide an earth ground someplace in your system. Bonding is okay but will not prevent current flow to one of the metal boxes in case of a short. To earth bond will protect by tripping a breaker or the T fuse on one side or the other. This is very important. Using only the auto-transformer neutral does nothing to protect your safety in such an event. This is similar to generators with no earth anchor where you have a floating neutral and also the possibility of turning the entire frame of the generator into a conductor for current. One touch in such a situation and you are electrocuted. It's not all that common an occurence so most 'take a chance' and avoid use of the earth ground, however to be safe you should go back and edit this video so no one follows your lead and loses their life or health. It is true you are earth grounded once you connect to your dryer, however with some other type connections, you are not. For instance if you install a receptacle box with duplex receptacle there is no ground to earth available which means your neutral and ground connection on the receptacle are connected. And if your hot leg is shorted to the box it's possible to get zapped because your set up will not take the hot short to earth ground and trip a breaker. Using the common ground in you AC box is good and bonding is okay but only if the ground is actually "grounded".
Looks super clean!!!
Great video, a lot of great info. I would love to see how to set up a grid tied system, thanks Matt
cool stuff, the panel in between the 2 inverter look nice and even
You are exactly right on the Blue Sea 48V breakers. I commend their service and sales folks for being forthright about the limits of their products, to ensure the safety of their customers.
60V DC 200amp breakers rated to not arc while shut off under load can be expensive, but worth it if something goes hot.
Nice clean setup. You do a great job of explaining the whole installation. First I would say the unit can take 4 awg. It’s a royal pain to get in there. I covered it in a video I made after I installed my 2 lv6548’s. The reason they recommend the gauge is mostly due to the surge in my opinion. But it’s worth the effort I would say. Even more so for the input. Although I realize you won’t be using that aspect of it. Also I would caution against having your main fuse box in that location. The units do vent out of the bottom. But a lot of the heat also vents from those side vents towards the bottom also. Once you have a large load or are charging you can check and see. They really need the full clearance from top to bottom with no obstructions. And Watts247 carries really great dc fuse/circuit breakers. I still plan on getting a couple 200 amp ones from Ian. He also has 150 amp. They are extremely heavy duty.
Nice job mounting your equipment. You should not block the venting for the inverters like you did with your electrical box. When they run under high load quite some heat will blow out of these venting holes. Since you blocked half on each inverter the internal overheating protection will shut them off.
As always very detailed and accurate. Would be nice to see a unbalance load with the 120 on one inverter high then the large 240 load put on similar to a real life situation.
each inverter is 6500 watt rated. Not many 120v appliances that can over load these inverters!
Since they each handle one phase that would be a fairly boring test. Dual phase inverters like the mpp6048 would be a different story I guess. They can only handle so much of a lopsided load before a warning code occurs. That really wouldn’t happen with these. So far I haven’t had an issue with mine. Running well and water heater as well as smaller loads.
@@uhjyuff2095 I would need 4 of these inverters I have seen 19000 watt surges on my AC a few times.
@@offgridwanabe microair
@@uhjyuff2095 yes that is one way but my geothermal water furnace has been around for 20 years now so I will keep it until it dies.
Thanks for sharing 👍...I think Mpp Solar and Growatt are leading the Solar industry I mean we got name brands out there but they cost an arm and a leg
I wish victron could have units like this ...not separate mppt
@@thabisomodisane1435 I asked Victron if they planned to offer an all-in-one system for the US, and they said not at this time..
@@thabisomodisane1435 Victron wants ALL your money, not just some of it.
I prefer battery breakers instead of fuses, in particular Nader 200A 60V breakers available from Signature Solar. They can run at high currents (130Amps) without getting hot.
Also 4/0 cables are best for ALL battery cables into the LV6548 otherwise the excessive wire resistance at high currents will cause wrong battery voltages to be measured inside the LV6548 units which will lead to bad decision making (in float and bulk) as the units charge the batteries, or use measured battery voltages to decide to switch to grid power (SBU mode). Even with 4/0 cables the voltages could be off by almost a volt at 100 Amp currents from the batteries to each LV6548. The LV6548 units do NOT have separate, low current battery voltage sense wires which you could tie to the battery terminals directly.
Yes, the battery cables are a bit undersized here in this DEMO setup. It is not a permanent installation nor is it intended to be something people should copy exactly as-is.
You ran wire through the knockout of the inverter without using a bushing. Also, you hooked a 50amp cord to a 30a breaker for your dryer test. Stay safe! I thought the inverters idle power consumption was excessive, but I don't own big units like that, so maybe it's normal.
You must have missed the comments made where this was a test setup. Also, that's a 30A cord, it's 10awg. Even if it were rated for 50A, it doesn't matter as it's on a 30A breaker anyway.
Adding some wire ferrules would help in your wire clamps connections.
Adding wire ferrules where? I don't believe any of these connection points requires ferrules.
@@LithiumSolar At time stamp 9:44 you talked about having flattening the wire. We use them a lot where I work at for better gripping on those type of connectors. Just a thought
@@danielturek7334 This is THHN wire. I've never heard of putting a ferrule on THHN wire. What type of wire are you using where you're using them? They're typically only used with finer strands.
Hey! Great video! Its great to see fully detailed installation videos like these!
I also went with that same amazon t class fuse, but I also added one of those bluesea red battery switches to make disconnecting easier. The connections are on the back so I dont love it.
Ive been eyeing the "Suntree" DC breakers sold on the Renogy amazon stores but theyre expensive at around $100. Havent seen anyone used those yet!
Nice clean wiring job. But wrong load center used. You should have a main 60amp for each leg. It will protect your inverter from a short.
Thanks, Is there a type of backer board you would recommend? I'm just going to head to the improvement story now. I think cement board would be hard to drill into.
HardieBacker cement backerboard is the stuff you want. Do not get the "USG Durock Board" stuff. It's impossible to cut without specialized tools and that epoxy smell never goes away. The HardieBacker can be screwed with regular screws that have a point on the end. It's fibrous, not a solid piece of rock like the name "cement board" suggests.
@@LithiumSolar Perfect. I love youtube! :). I just picked up 8 sheets. I'll mention you in my build video. Thanks!
Wow.. thanks for the video! That cleared up soooo much. 😅
Looks good brother. Thanks for sharing. God Bless
So which inverters do you like the best? Thanks for sharing
Nice video but I would like to see information about running and standby/idle mode energy use. That information would be extremely useful for those of those that have minimal solar energy available.
Replying to my own question I know it was stated that approximately 120 watts was being used with no power throughput. Is there another mode other than just off?
Different voltage from dryer is caused by drum motor is on one leg. That is the difference.
Great video. Very helpful and detailed and not too long 👍
Excellent job brother.
Midnight solar makes good DC breakers (up to 125V)
Good idea - forgot about Midnight. I'll check them out. Thanks!
i notice that you didn't install a shunt. is that because you don't expect to ever need to measure the current easily? or just want to use a clamp meter and cut expenses? i bought a smart shunt so i could use my cellphone to check on batteries/power without going to the system.
It's a testing/demonstration setup. I have a shunt [Batrium] on my production system.
The power of the sun, in the palm of your hand.
Higher load on one inverter is because the motor in the dryer that turns the drum is 120v.
The reason you are seeing a current difference between the two is the one in the right has a much longer wire so you may be seeing a slight voltage drop compared to the one be of the left.
That's not how 240V on 2x 120V inverters works...
@@LithiumSolar I’m talking about the battery connection.
The inverters are not in parallel. What you're saying would only make sense if they were in parallel.
@@LithiumSolar derp you’re right.
Just to clarify nebulight, the imbalance is coming from the drum motor. It's only 120V. Plus the other electronics is powered by one leg as well.
I really like this video, have any other video about how to connect your solar system to the grid ?
I know you've uploaded video for solar panel Array but it would be nice to upload again for this split phase , like big array and you test loads same time
I have the same LV6548 setup with SOK batteries except not the server rack type. What I can’t figure out is why the battery voltage on one inverter is different than the other? It’s always .3 to .4 off. For example one inverter is at 54 volts and the other one at 54.4. When I measure the voltage with my meter on each inverter, they both match to what inverter 2 says. Inverter 1 shows a lower voltage. I also have to mention that inverter 1 was bought several months before inverter 2.
Nice install. I’m using the same two. Three primary concerns. The beaker box may be partially blocking the exhaust. These inverters in my opinion have poor fan design to begin with. The sound they make tends to make believe the fans are entering a stalled state. Much like the sound of a plugged vacuum cleaner. Be sure you vacuum the foam filter often. The cables from the busses give the right inverter a longer run and and a greater voltage drop than the left(see pg 45 in pamphlet). I would equalize the length AND jump up to 2/0 (even though the manual says it’s acceptable). Why equal length is important is when you start pulling heavy imbalances loads(more load on one leg to neutral then the other leg to neutral). When you get a DC voltage imbalance you may get a # 83 fault (see pg58). Also the 1/0 wire will get toasty at 3/4 load and could trigger a premature low voltage shutdown or back to grid if you have that set. Lastly your bonding at that panel is probably correct for your situation but I believe you need to run a ground rod directly below the inverters or directly behind the wall. Suggestion: get a DuroMax XP9000iH dual fuel inverter generator. It can be controlled by the inverters. What’s alarming is you broke the terminal block! Now that worries me. The #6 Thhn wire is fine and seems to be what everyone is using. You would have been fine using the Blue Sea brand 200 amp breaker. True it says 48 volt max but that would mean it could never work on any 48V marine application which they do all the time. After all, any 48v dc system is going to be over 50 volts during charge. I think you spoke with someone that just reads documentation and won’t go find an answer. Haven’t had any problems with mine however I do use precharge resistors to eliminate pitted contacts.
Again, nice setup.
One other concern is he didn't use any form of protection on the battery cables entrance into the Inverter housing. This model comes with nylon cable glands.
That was an excellent presentation, clear and concise. Did you remove the bonding screws in each inverter as Will recommends?.
I removed the bonding screw in each inverter as MPP Solar (the manufacturer) recommends/approved of.
Why did you use one live wire for one inverter to be black and another live wire for another inverter to be red? And since you connected neutral wires and ground wires from both inverter touch one another, can I also let two live wires from two inverters touch one another? Thanks.
I highly suggest contacting an electrician to have your inverters connected based on the questions you're asking.
What all are you running on you system? That seems like alot for just the few breakers in that box.
This is just a demo system. It's not powering anything currently.
@@LithiumSolar lol. Im running my entire home, shop, barn off my system. The only thing i dont have on it is my hot water heater. And I'm trying to figure out a boiler system for it. My hot water heater uses 49% of my total energy consumption.
Very nice! These will be powering mine here soon. I'll be rebuilding my power shed here in the spring, just didn't have time last fall. Have you considered a hybrid heat-pump water heater? I installed one a couple of years ago and significantly reduced my water heating costs vs the old electric style.
@@LithiumSolar i have, just didn't know anyone using one to compare. You are running yours off your inverters? I have 4 teenagers plus me and ma'ma my hot water heater is a killer.. Lol
new subscriber here, well explained and nice clean job.
One other topic is the use of one inverter with 120/240 split phase capability rather than the 2 interconnected one's. Not sure the reason behind interest in this type set up as it confounds the wiring much more when 2 are used to provide split phase. Sigineer, Aims, SunGold Power are some of those that provide split phase in one unit. Wiring is much simpler with fewer connections required. Much more reliable as well due to the simplicity of wiring. Available in similar input and output with some even larger for off-grid type installation. I see videos where builds are based on 2 units to produce split phase and could never understand why anyone would choose this set up.
I haven't really seen anything affordable over 5kW that can be paired with split phase. I priced a set up for funsies and just came to the conclusion of running two separate 12kW split phase inverters. Cheap and effective. The only added cost being another breaker panel, but big whoop.
If you are OFF GRID and use a 2 pc inverter vs. one for split phase, you have some insurance of having some power (120v) if there's an inverter failure as opposed to ZERO power with the all in one unit.
Plz do u have vedio on 3phase installation with victron inverter?
I don't have any experience with 3-phase systems.
Ok,so you mentioned the 4/0 from the battery to the bus bars not needing to be the same length. Can explain that ? Thanks and great video. Just preparing to wire up 4 of the sok’s myself
Because he inverted the order for negative versus positive, he's already "evened" out the difference between batteries which is the only difference that matters. His negative cable could be a hundred feet long for all that it matters and although it would add a bunch of resistance that isn't good, it would add it EQUALLY to each battery, thus them all being in balance. IE it's not that negative and positive to each battery has to be balanced, it's that the total length (resistance) of each battery has to be balanced. Hope that helps!
The length (from rack to busbar) doesn't matter because it's one circuit. The current only has one path to flow. The place where it matters is when you have multiple runs coming together. For example, if I had two racks of SOK batteries, I would want the cables from each rack going to the common point (busbar) to be the same length. In the case of 2 racks, if the cables to each were not the same length, the battery with the shorter cables would be doing more "work" because of less resistance in the cabling. I hope that makes sense, I'm not the best at explaining in words.
While typing that out, I see someone else replied with the same thing (in less words) above :)
@@LithiumSolar ok awesome. Thanks for the explanation! I appreciate it.
@@jessesilver thanks for the explanation 😊
please do a follow up for PV connections to these. thanks!
I already have a video on selecting and sizing solar panels for an inverter. ua-cam.com/video/QWJpafOHoD0/v-deo.html same properties apply here.
@@LithiumSolar thanks friend
Others have mentioned the need for a grounding rod to tie the chassis to ground. The 120/240 is always the voltage between the 2 lines, but without a ground rod tieing it to ground, the ground will float. In my case, I measured 170V between the case and ground when not properly grounded. Copper ground rod, proper connection, problem solved. I know you have one and it wasn’t shown, just important to mention. If you have to Google grounding versus bonding, please call an electrician.
No, I do not have a ground round in this setup. Yes, it's floating.
great knowledge. Thanks. Subscribed...
just wondering about adding a manual auto emergency off switch some where ,or does them fuse work for that?
Great video! Please help: I don't speak much English but I want to ask you why in split-phase and not in parallel? I live in Europe and I need 220V for utilities, I have the same two inverters and I want to create a system that allows me to manage batteries and home consumption. If I wanted to put them in parallel, do I have to connect them both to phase and neutral or just one of the two? Can you make a video about it? Thank you
Whilst this is off-grid, can the inverter feed back into the grid? I assume not?
No. This is not a grid-tie or grid-interactive inverter.
4x $1,600 batteries.
2x $1,200 inverter.
This system is awesome...for anyone who has $10,000+
That would be me, actually my 13000 watt kit was $15,800 delivered. That does not include the ground mount or switches and wiring, I figure about another $5,000. I will be installing it myself. Took 53 years of hard work to get where I am at.
great work
For the same cost you could build a nuclear power plant or an underground generator and gas bunker
Do you see a difference or need to use a double poll breaker ti backfired your panel? I see it being done how you show and also back feeding the panel
Really well done and really nice system!
Thanks for all your videos, I am building a very similar system. I have question and cannot find any video about it. I am guessing that you need to even your arrays between both mpp, like array 1 on each mpp. How about between array 1 and 2 on the same mpp, does it make a difference if you close to max out one array and the second have not even half the rating?
Wow nice system
I am using the sungold power version of these exact same machines. They look identical except for color. Programs also work the same way
How do you get the inverters to communicate with the batteries? My batteries are at a very low state of charge but are not completely drained. Because the voltage has not changed much, the inverter register them as being nearly 100% and will not charge with utility power .
I have also tried hooking these up to four 460 W solar panels. The panels are bringing in the correct voltage but are bringing in no watts or amp and I cannot figure out why.
I had an electrician install an interlock kit and a 30 amp inlet so I can plug in my gas generator. Can I plug this system into that 3 amp inlet, just like my generator. If so what do I need to add or take away to make this system apply to my situation Thanks for your help in advance!
hey , system looks good , one question about rj45 cables connected to all batteries , what are they for ?
Can you run a electric stove and dryer at the same time? How much watts does a stove use?
Awesome video! What would be the difference if you used two LVX6048WP inverters? Second, do you use the ground neutral bond the same on a boat? THANKS!
Would it be smart to use ferrules on the #6 wire inputs to the inverters?
No, those terminals are designed to take stranded wires.
@@LithiumSolar hmmm. Saw stranded wire that you referred to, but relistening, you called “‘round” wire. U meant solid, I think, I saw and thought stranded.
@@johnnydfred It's THHN wire and contains 19 strands for #6. When you strip the insulation off, yes, it's round. I unwrapped the strands a bit so it was no longer round and better matched the square profile of the terminal. It's not solid wire.
I'll be doing something similar. I bought two jakiper batteries and will be ordering either a 6000w or 8000w MPP inverter charger. I don't don't need two. I'll buy two more jakiper batteries in a few months.
You should have contacted the batteries together with bus bars rather than daisy chaining them.
I will be making my own bus bars from flat solid copper bar stock with standoff insulators and custom made made Perspex covers.
Lucky for me my father was an electrician, a mate I have is one and one of my cousin's husband is one as well but also a licenced solar installer...
I will be running the circuits in my house which will also be connected to the grid via a three way changeover switch just in case..
I still don't get what split phase mode is
The LV6548 is TUV Rheinland certified, why can you connect it with a grid feed?
It's not a grid-tie inverter. I assume by "grid feed" you mean connecting the AC input and using the built-in transfer switch on a subpanel. Yes, I could do that. I just don't want to use it that way.
Also, I'm not even sure if TUV carries any weight here in the US. I've never even heard of TUV until this inverter came out.
@@LithiumSolar Yes I know it’s an off grid inverter, however it can still be feed by the grid. A google search says that TUV certification is excepted in North America.
S0 In a 240V country (UK) we won't require any split phase... Only one inverter would be required ?
These inverters are 120V each and are intended for the US market. You would need 2 to get 240V; however, I'd suggest looking for a model intended for your country's electrical system.
Great video! What kind of board are you using to mount all those equipment? Cement board? BTW, what does Watt247 say about ground rod for earth ground, does it need for full off-grid system?
what a lovely video. you are promoting the lifepo4 batteries and in disclaimer saying that people need to get professional advise. Well, professional would never ever suggest to buy those batteries, - cause there is no warranty. But still you are here and promoting it again and again.
The batteries have a 10-year warranty. This video is not advice. It's a hobby of mine that I love talking about.
@@LithiumSolar you also have an affiliate link where to buy them. so it's not a hobby anymore, - it's a business. Maybe I missed it, - but please, - do tell people at the very beginning of the video the same. If you have nothing to lose, - is okay. Others probably won't afford to lose everything. Thank you.
After watching the end of the film, could the difference in the power output of the inverters be because of the different length of the positive leads that I mentioned?
So is this the future of home power? What happens when there is no sunshine? How long will the batteries maintain power to the home? So, off the grid is better than staying on the grid?
It can be grid connected, (not grid tied) so batteries always are topped off overnight at lower rates if the sun isn't cooperating. That model has a 120amp ac to DC charger built in as well as a 120amp MPPT solar charger.
No communication between the battery bank and the inverters?
would you mind testing the talentcell 170ah bluetooth lifepo4 from Amazon please? According to the manufacturer, the cells are 177ah, 150a bms, low temp cut off and it's the same size as the regular 100ah. It's reasonably priced at around $550.
how close did you match the length of the battery cables +/- between the inverters and bus bars.
Are the DC components approved for permanent installation in a building, ie acceptable under electrical codes?
No idea. I am not an electrician nor an electrical inspector.