This is great!!! I never knew that the main water does not need to be shut off to replace the converter valve. You have made my repair jobs so much easier as a landlord. Thank you so much.
You are the best. Your demonstration is simple, clear, and right to the point. Very beneficial and educational for me. I watched it twice. Thanks so much.
BobsPlumbingVideos : You're the man! Easily the best and clearest video, both visually and verbally, on this particular DIY plumbing issue on YT, and one of the best on any DIY project, on YT. Thanks.
BobsPlumbingVideos : The great Baroque Italian violinist is credited witht he phrase, "Those who can, do; those who cannot, teach." It's rare for a real pro such as yourself who is willing, and able, to share his expertise. Those who do should be thanked. May I trouble you about my current plumbing issue with my 60-year-old Gerber 3-valve tub install? The Hot leaks (at the spout, not in the wall), the Cold turns down. However, at the inside cut-off, the Hot turns down, but the Cold doesn't. Can I go ahead and replace the Hot stem without creating a flood from the de-valved shower body? Or would the safest course be to turn off the water supply at the exterior shut-off?
If you're pulling either the hot or cold water stem, you must shut down the water. If you don't have dedicated valves, shut off the main supply to the house.
BobsPlumbingVideos : Thanks. I think my questiion was quite clear: If I'm pulling the tub hot, I understand that the cut-off hot must also be off; but must the cold cut-off also be off?
Thank you for really stressing the functionality of the diverter and most importantly for me the way it needs to be when put in. I had a super come three times for various reasons to adjust the new diverter. Today he left me with shower head pressure less then rainfall. I decided to see if I could adjust it myself. I watched your video and in less then five minutes adjusted the diverter and put it back together! Full pressure now with shower!!! Again, it was because it had been put in without being opened at all….I am so grateful…thanks again! Anthony
I have watched many plumbing-help videos, most not very good. This one was very good. I give this guy 5 stars out of 4. This one is THAT clear, yet quick and complete. 5 out of 4!
Hey Bob thanks again. For 18 years my kids have been very hard on these 3 valve bath and shower handles. Every time we have a heating & plumbing co. out to fix them we're out $150 +.YOU have saved us tons of cash. I got all 3 stems at Lowes for $36 appreciate you.
I have the three knobs and the faucet with no diverter on faucet. Water leakes from faucet when using the shower head. Do I need to replace the faucet or it it the middle knob, which I guess is the diverter? Thanks for the video.
Still answering questions? I replaced all three stems. Mainly hot stem was leaking but with age knocked out all 3 just cause. Now with new stems, flow going to tub spout is 50% stronger than before, and flow coming from shower appears 50% weaker than before. What do I need to investigate?
I replaced my diverter valve and now it doesn’t send water to my shower head. Can it that when I took out my old valve the washer was broken, could the broken piece got stuck where the water goes to my shower head. Cause now it just drips water from my shower head. Thank you 🙏🏽
It's happened to me more than once, the washer breaks off travels up into the shower riser. Take the showerhead off, remove and cap the tub spout possible. Turn on both hot and cold water full force to try and blow out the broken pieces.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos I removed the diverter and with a flash light I could see a steel circle but not a seat. When the shower is running, a moderate stream of hot water is coming out of the drain.
Wow. Bob this is by far the best site. Like the explanations of how things works ie. the importance of installing the stems and diverter in the open position. Simple but important as many have mentioned. Waterproof grease, know one mentions that sadly. With that said. I have a question which seem to keep coming up. I just replaced my shower facets and diverter with a new complete rebuild kit from Gerber. All went well. Only issue is I have a little water still running from the tub spout when the shower is on. Someone mentioned turning the handle a little further then they are comfortable with. Helped a little. Someone mentioned changing the spout with a diverter in it. Don't know if mine has one or not is it a viable option? You had mentioned a faulty diverter though rare. I took it all apart again and checked washers, seats, rings etc. all seems fine, internally who knows. My question is being I can live with it. Am I using more water. I can't live with that. If so I guess another new diverter would be my next step? Pressure seems the same maybe a little less. Not enough to make me take a longer shower. Thanks. PEACE Mark
+Mark Meberg Mark I always will tell my customers that when replacing stems and diveters in a 30,40,50 year old body, it doesn't always work 100%of the time. Key part is in finding original Gerber(or whichever manufacturer) replacements. You can see a significant difference between O.E.M. and after market parts. That being said, you can try and put a small bit of Teflon around the seat where the diverter sits. I don't feel their is an issue with wasting water, if it's driving you crazy you can most certainly open the diverter fully so it only comes out of the spout and then purchase a tub nozzle with a built in pull up diverter in it. But be forewarned, that most of the aftermarket pull up diverters will allow water to trickle out. A.K.A not 100% shut-off..Regards and thanks for watching, Bob.
+BobsPlumbingVideos Thank you for the quick response. I replaced everything new stem, diverter, seats, everthing. Not wasting water. It is very slight when using the shower. I'm satisfied. Again thanks. PEACE
Hi i have a question . sometimes the water coming from the shower head is very hot and gets cold again and then hot again . and in the bottom is ok. What could it be?
I would check the washers on both the hot and cold water stems, they may be old and soft. Expansion and contraction causing the fluctuation in temperature. My first place to look.
Bob thanks for the video. Very helpful. I have a 3 faucet bathroom setup and needed to replace a stripped diverter stem. I found an equivalent American Standard stem and installed. I can successfully divert water from the tub nozzle to the shower head but the faucet handle just spins continuously clockwise and counter clockwise. Before the nozzle would stop after 1.5 turns in either direction. If installed uninstalled a few times. Everything looks good on the stem. Any help would be appreciated.
Is it possible that the inside of the handle is stripped away. This will happen occasionally in which case I replace the handle and problem solved. Feel free to send me some photos.info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.
I followed your video, thank you so much for your help. Although a slightly different design, it was close enough to help me. Quick question....I'm replacing a Kohler diverter stem that is exactly the same as the old. I replaced the seat and all looks well. The problem is that after wrenching down the stem the diverter won't operate (rotate any direction...as though it is binding). I've had it off several times and can't see anything that would interfere with the operation. After I remove the stem and have it in my hand, the diverter opens/closes freely. I just did this in my other shower without a hitch....this 2nd bath is proving a little more difficult. Thanks for any help that you can be.
These are just the videos I needed. I need you to go a bit further, though. I have a 1950s Gerber shower body. I replaced Hot and Cold and Diverter with new Gerber parts. I still have water dripping/shooting out of shower body/stem o-ring connection on cold, especially when the diverter is in the shower position. Is there some other prep I should do at the point? Or is it time to call someone to install new shower body?
Great videos. My brothers house has a problem. The tile guys made a new wall around the shower body and the handles are now to close to the wall any way to fix that without breaking wall and repiping everything. I noticed yours are pretty close too.
Unfortunately not! depending on the manufacturer there are a minimum and maximum depths to consider. Once I set my body in place and the tile guy or carpenter screws up, it's on them. The exception is some of the better-made shower body's (mainly single lever) offer extension kits for those kinds of mishaps!
No, the diverter stem controls flow between the spout and shower head only. Did you replace the internal seats when you replaced the stems? If they're compromised in any way, the new stems won't help.
This video is specifically for the Gerber Three Valve body. Who's valve are you working on? Feel free to send any photos of your job...info@robertsessaplumbing.com.
I like them as they give you many options in connecting different materials. Clean and simple and you can also easily take them apart. A little pricey compared to using traditional hard copper tubing. Unfortunately they're not code approved in N.Y. Definitely have to shoot a video on the subject!
What brand tub/shower set is that? I have a Moen and it is horrible. The valve stem is plastic and I don't see a way to fix the diverter valve, looks like I have to replace the entire 3 valve set. The plumbers who put it in 12 years ago were trying to say that it was better than what Home Depot carried. The old one that the plumbers replaced was 40 years old and still good. We had it replaced because we were changing copper to pex. That one you have in your video looks very well made. I want to get one like that.
The Brand in the video is made by Gerber which is a very common valve here in New York. Well made and reliable all brass construction. If you'd like to send me some photos to info@bobsplumbingvideos.com, I'll see if I can help you!. Also please be aware that all the plumbing fixtures and fittings that the big box stores sell, are not the same products you purchase in a plumbing supply. They are made with lesser quality materials so those stores can offer them at a better price point.
I replaced the stem and seat with exact models on all three handles. I did have water coming out of both shower and tub but then I realized that there was a washer missing on my diverter stem. I bought a new. Now when I installed it I have water coming out of the shower only. When I turn to spout nothing comes out. Any idea what I've done wrong?
BobsPlumbingVideos no sign of the washer. Took the spout off but didn't come out. However, if I put the stem back in without that washer on it that was missing, then water comes out of the tub and shower. So I guess the tub isn't clogged. Idk what I'm doing wrong at this point
Thanks for video. I have a 3-handle Price Pfister tub/shower faucet. It is leaking to spout badly now when shower. My diverter stem looks just like yours. When mine is turned all way in the water fully comes out of spout, opposite to the one in your video. Does it mean mine was installed up side down (by a previous owner)? I took the stem out and can understand why the water is shut from one way when the handle is turned all way in. But I cannot figure out how the other way works. I got a worn and loose nylon ring on the stem. Is it the problem? What is ring for? It seemed you touched it a bit in the video. Can we explain more? I will very appreciate it.
William, essentially the divert-er works the same way as the Gerber version. I would just purchase a new divert-er stem or send me a digital photo of yours to info@bobsplumbingvideos.com and I'll see if I can help!
Hi Bob, great information in the videos. I have a 3 piece faucet bath set. The diverter has recently jammed tight! Has this happened because of limescale? I am going to remove the diverter and try to clean it, but perhaps its best to just replace it with a new one.
Depending upon where in the country your located that is a possibility. We have pretty good water here in NY City and don't run across hard water deposits. All that being said, if you have a unit that been in service for a number of years replacing the divert-er is not a bad idea! P.S. make sure the screw that holds the washer in place didn't back itself out and get caught up inside the shower body. Good Luck!
Actually living in Europe, but your videos are by far the best I've come across, congrats. The unit has been in service for about 6 years, not long, but the previous unit seized up on the previous owner. I'm having trouble finding a replacement part, that's why I'm trying cleaning. Have you any online shops?
the handle and the spindle stem are both stripped on my diverter knob. otherwise the valve works great. can I replace or repair the stem, or do I need to replace the whole valve?
+Raul Morin I don't see any reason you would have to. If you can find an original equipment replacement diverter, you can just replace it and save the rest of the valve. What brand are we looking at? Can you send me a couple of pictures?
Do you know where to find the middle round part on the stem separately. I bought a universal kit from Home Depot & both ends fit except the middle part. What I did to make it work took out the new both ends out and inserted it in the old middle part of the stem and made it work. I would like to know If I can just buy the middle round part of the stem in case for the future. I will appreciate your help!
I am having trouble installing the new diverter stem. It appears to be the same as far as I can tell. I took the old one with me to the store to make sure it was a good match. Yet When I try and install the new one it just spins and wont grab the threads on the inside. Looking inside with a flash light the threads seem fine and there is no debris preventing the thread from grabbing. I also inspected the thread on the replacement they seem ok to. The valve is backed off like you show in the video yet the whole thing just spins away forever when I try and install it. Only difference I can tell is that the old one was missing the seat washer making it about an 1/8 of an inch shorter. Trying a different manufacturers replacement or removing the seat washer is the only thing I can think of but if I understand the video correctly removing the seat washer would cause leakage. Any ideas or recommendations?
Hello, Bob I want to make sure I get the right parts. Would it be a good idea to disassemble the diverter parts and take them into the plumbing supply store for identification? Thanks, Linda.
I have replaced the diverter valve, and all parts are accounted for. But water still comes thru the faucet when I have the shower on. Not Luke before, but still some. I believe these were the original parts I am taking out, and the house was built in 1975... so would it be calcium builduyp or something like that causing this??? Not sure what else to do now...
A. did you use O.E.M parts or aftermarket parts? O.E.M. is the way to go, also sometimes even thought you use new parts bear in mind you're installing them into the existing body which could be the culprit.
+BobsPlumbingVideos they were Danco made for Price Phister. That may be the issue. I have also found out that that the shaft is not long enough or the escutcheon is to long to allow me to put it together. I am going back to see if home depot has the parts with longer shafts
+PamG Make sure you're using the correct sized socket, place the diverter into the neutral position (half opened / half closed) or fully open position. A little elbow grease!
+BobsPlumbingVideos I have the correct size - 29/32. I did try to remove it in both positions and it still will not move. I used as much elbow grease as i could.
BobsPlumbingVideos Correct. Sounds like someone used the old fashioned "pipe dope" on it, or it's so calcified it won't budge & could bed the entire tee in there. 👍🏼
HI Bob! I have a diverter style I am unable to locate online for instruction on how to fix the leak myself. I have the type that pulls out from the wall; so a separate handle for hot and cold with the pull-out in the middle which now sprays water. Would you know the proper name for this style diverter? I live in Canada and my home was built in 1988
Bob - I replaced the Hot and Cold valve stems and seats, and now there's no leak from the faucet when it they're turned off, but if you turn on cold, water leaks from the handles of the diverter and hot; if you turn on hot, water leaks from cold and the diverter. What's causing this? Will replacing the diverter fix it? Thanks!
Sounds like you just need to tighten or pack the stems. That's the first nut you'll notice when you remove the chrome sleeves. You can try to snug them up, if that doesn't do it, you might have to remove the nut a install some graphite packing. amzn.to/1xSq81L. Let me know!
questionguy If your working on only the center diverter stem and the hot and cold water don’t leak, no. If the hot and cold water leaks, it may be a good idea to shut down the water.
Thanks for the great videos Bob. I need to change my diverter in a similar but old unit and would like to use OEM however I don't know where to get brsnd name info. Actually I would like to replace diverter stem with a longer one. The actual problem is that I bought a flip house and everything was put over old walls etc. The tub surround is actually on top of tile so the stem handle was just barely catching. This ultimately resulted in the splines wearing out. My fiancée is not too happy with the small grip plier handle solution. any Ideas?
If you send me some digital photos, I'll try to identify it for you. Send them to info@bobsplumbingvideos.com. Because you added another layer over the existing tiles might cause a problem. The shower body may now be set to deep into the wall and the only fix might be to move it forward. That means unless you have access from behind, you would have to open the wall. Send those photos and I'll take a look. Regards, Bob.
My diverter stem seems to work its way unscrewed over a period of time - my kid will be taking a shower and switch to bath and the whole thing will come out and shoot water out from where the stem screws in. Do you know what the typical causes of this are?
I've recently started having problems with water not flowing up to my shower head like it should, while lots of water still pours into the tub. By the time I get out, water is up to my ankles. Ugh! I suspect I need to do the repair in this video, but I'm not sure I have the tools, or expertise, to do it. It looks simple enough, but if I can't do it myself, about how much does this sort of repair cost?
It depends! Where are you located! Are you going to hire a plumber or handyman? Are they using original manufacturer parts or after market parts? A divert-er stem replacement in the New York area could run anywhere from a low of $125.00 to as high as $250.00 and beyond.I personally feel if you're not sure and or don't have the tools, hire a professional. It'll be much more cost effective in the long run.Good Luck and Regards, Bob.
Hey Bob, my husband and I watched your videos on replacing the diverter and the hot/cold for a three-way plumb. What do you do when you've replaced the diverter, but water is still coming from shower and faucet at the same time? We tried using a brand new diverter and also tried rebuilding the original diverter we had--same results both times.
BobsPlumbingVideos We figured it out. We had to tighten it down the outside handle a little more than we were comfortable with, but it finally stopped leaking from the faucet when the shower is on. Is there anything that we can use to replace the hard white washer so that it will have less chance of cracking again?
+Chelle G I had the same problem. No matter how tight the new diverter was, water still came out of the tub spout. I had to install a spout with an internal diverter to resolve it.
Chelle, All things equal if you got a new original factory replacement diverter and also replaced the internal seat. It's quite possibly may be an issue with the body interior. Rare but it does happen. Thanks for watching!
If your referring the the Gerber diverter in this video, you should be able to unscrew it counter clockwise and pull back on it. In some cases I'll grab the stem and give it a good yank if it's stuck. Just make sure you unscrew it completely before pulling on it.
closed it is coming out the shower, NOT going into the main seat. opened it is opened the water IS GOING into the main seat. Basically people do not understand that the WATER is not coming out of the MAIN SEAT, but rather GOING INTO IT when water going to the tub. Yes, this is opposite the hot and cold stem.
Hey Bob, I just stumbled across you today, and I am glad I did. I have a question. You mentioned in another video about replacing the end washer back in the day, but times are different... My question is as you know there are at least 4 different sizes available for my 1/2". I fear the answer is yes, but is it imperative that I use the exact size 1/2" because quite frankly in my limited experience it is usually very difficult for ME to tell what size the old ruined one is. It seems only logical to me that I would not want to replace it with one that does not fit completely inside the rim, but it seems difficult to get ANY size to fit what I would consider perfectly. Is that fit critical, and if so how do I determine which one to use? I am not saying you are the only one who does it, but I have watched quite a few repair vids and you are the ONLY one who taught me the importance of having the valves completely open, then closed. Thank you. I think I may not have paid any attention to that when I repaired one a while back and was lucky, but I intend to redo it. Your response will be very greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.
Rickerson, are you referring to replacing the rubber washer as opposed to the entire diverter stem? When I use to replace washers and seats I carried an assortment of flat and or beveled washers and would use the exact size required. The cup on the end of the stem would be of a certain size and I would match the washer to the exact size of the cup. You also want to be certain the seat inside the body is in sound condition.
Which nut! Removing the packing nut won't allow the stem to be removed. You must use a deep socket wrench if the shower body is set deep into the wall.
why is my deverter white plastic, and why when the maintenance man replaced my diverted (it was stuck on shower no matter which way i turned the middle knob) i lost more than half of my water pressure? it takes like 5times longer to get the shampoo out of my hair now!!
Was it going up top prior to replacing the divert-er? Cloud something be blocking the riser pipe going up to the shower head? Try removing the shower head and trying it. Let me know!
BobsPlumbingVideos Yes, there was something blocking my shower head. I went bought a new shower head. Everything work great. I replace hot water, cold water and diverter stems.Thank you for a fast responds.
Fields0921 Is the inside of the handle stripped? (new handle) or the end of the stem stripped? (new stem) Or is the the stem just frozen in the shower position?
Tanja, the inside of faucet seats as a rule are either square or hex shaped.I own one straight seat removal tool that has each shape on either end and is graduated in size the deeper it enters the seat. Check out this angled version www.amazon.com/LASCO-13-2105-Stepped-Angled-Removal/dp/B000FHBIEK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1407679628&sr=8-7&keywords=faucet+seat+removal+tool. I've never had to purchase a "SET" of tools as this one tool has served me for 99% of all seats I've ever worked on. When you remove the divert-er it should be in the full open position, not pushed up against the seat.
Thanks for bringing that to my attention! You can e-mail me directly info@bobsplumbingvideos.com and I'll be happy to answer any questions. Regards, Bob.
Thanks Stephen, I try my best to give a real world view of what happens in the field. You can always send me photos if you get stuck, my e-mail is info@bobsplumbingvideos.com. HAPPY PLUMBING!
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This is great!!! I never knew that the main water does not need to be shut off to replace the converter valve. You have made my repair jobs so much easier as a landlord. Thank you so much.
Glad I could help!
You are the best. Your demonstration is simple, clear, and right to the point. Very beneficial and educational for me. I watched it twice. Thanks so much.
You are very welcome
BobsPlumbingVideos : You're the man! Easily the best and clearest video, both visually and verbally, on this particular DIY plumbing issue on YT, and one of the best on any DIY project, on YT. Thanks.
Thank you very much Adam, I try my best to make it easy to understand for everyone. Much appreciated!
BobsPlumbingVideos : The great Baroque Italian violinist is credited witht he phrase, "Those who can, do; those who cannot, teach." It's rare for a real pro such as yourself who is willing, and able, to share his expertise. Those who do should be thanked.
May I trouble you about my current plumbing issue with my 60-year-old Gerber 3-valve tub install? The Hot leaks (at the spout, not in the wall), the Cold turns down. However, at the inside cut-off, the Hot turns down, but the Cold doesn't. Can I go ahead and replace the Hot stem without creating a flood from the de-valved shower body? Or would the safest course be to turn off the water supply at the exterior shut-off?
If you're pulling either the hot or cold water stem, you must shut down the water. If you don't have dedicated valves, shut off the main supply to the house.
BobsPlumbingVideos : Thanks. I think my questiion was quite clear: If I'm pulling the tub hot, I understand that the cut-off hot must also be off; but must the cold cut-off also be off?
no
Thank you for really stressing the functionality of the diverter and most importantly for me the way it needs to be when put in. I had a super come three times for various reasons to adjust the new diverter. Today he left me with shower head pressure less then rainfall. I decided to see if I could adjust it myself. I watched your video and in less then five minutes adjusted the diverter and put it back together! Full pressure now with shower!!! Again, it was because it had been put in without being opened at all….I am so grateful…thanks again!
Anthony
You just saved me $400, I am subbed and greatful.
Excellent explanation of the diverter. actually understand BEFORE
taking mine apart.m
I have watched many plumbing-help videos, most not very good. This one was very good. I give this guy 5 stars out of 4. This one is THAT clear, yet quick and complete.
5 out of 4!
I appreciate the kind words! I try my best to share my real world experience with everyone. Thanks again, much appreciated! Bob.
As with the first two, thank you so much. I needed these videos!
Hey Bob thanks again. For 18 years my kids have been very hard on these 3 valve bath and shower handles. Every time we have a heating & plumbing co. out to fix them we're out $150 +.YOU have saved us tons of cash. I got all 3 stems at Lowes for $36 appreciate you.
Happy to help! Thanks much for watching, Bob.
Exactly what video I was looking for! Thank you for posting
Clayton Stokes You’re welcome Clayton, thank you for checking it out! Regards, Bob.
Your welcome Anthony, I'm glad to help! Thanks for watching & HAPPY PLUMBING!
Thanks Anthony, appreciate it ! Regards, Bob.
Very informative video, and you are a great teacher. I know it takes time to make videos like this, so it is much appreciated!
Thank You, my friend, much appreciated as well! Regards, Bob.
What’s that tool called that you called socket wrench bro I need it can’t seem to find help me out pls and thank you
bit.ly/3hPmiTr
Thanks for a well put together video! I have a diverter stem that is stuck and I now know what I need to do to remove and re-seat the stem.
Thanks. Great video. Helped me TONS
I have the three knobs and the faucet with no diverter on faucet. Water leakes from faucet when using the shower head. Do I need to replace the faucet or it it the middle knob, which I guess is the diverter? Thanks for the video.
Still answering questions? I replaced all three stems. Mainly hot stem was leaking but with age knocked out all 3 just cause.
Now with new stems, flow going to tub spout is 50% stronger than before, and flow coming from shower appears 50% weaker than before.
What do I need to investigate?
I replaced my diverter valve and now it doesn’t send water to my shower head. Can it that when I took out my old valve the washer was broken, could the broken piece got stuck where the water goes to my shower head. Cause now it just drips water from my shower head. Thank you 🙏🏽
It's happened to me more than once, the washer breaks off travels up into the shower riser. Take the showerhead off, remove and cap the tub spout possible. Turn on both hot and cold water full force to try and blow out the broken pieces.
Do all diverter stems have a seat in it?
Most all I've worked on do!
@@BobsPlumbingVideos I removed the diverter and with a flash light I could see a steel circle but not a seat. When the shower is running, a moderate stream of hot water is coming out of the drain.
I meant water comes out of the faucet to the tub. I’m thinking it’s nearing time to put a new faucet system to replace these old timers.
Hey Bob I wanna get rid of the 3 valve. How can I replace it with a new shower with the pipes on the outside?
send me some pictures, need some more info. E-Mail - info@robertsessaplumbing.com.
Wow. Bob this is by far the best site. Like the explanations of how things works ie. the importance of installing the stems and diverter in the open position. Simple but important as many have mentioned. Waterproof grease, know one mentions that sadly. With that said. I have a question which seem to keep coming up. I just replaced my shower facets and diverter with a new complete rebuild kit from Gerber. All went well. Only issue is I have a little water still running from the tub spout when the shower is on. Someone mentioned turning the handle a little further then they are comfortable with. Helped a little. Someone mentioned changing the spout with a diverter in it. Don't know if mine has one or not is it a viable option? You had mentioned a faulty diverter though rare. I took it all apart again and checked washers, seats, rings etc. all seems fine, internally who knows. My question is being I can live with it. Am I using more water. I can't live with that. If so I guess another new diverter would be my next step? Pressure seems the same maybe a little less. Not enough to make me take a longer shower. Thanks. PEACE Mark
+Mark Meberg Mark I always will tell my customers that when replacing stems and diveters in a 30,40,50 year old body, it doesn't always work 100%of the time. Key part is in finding original Gerber(or whichever manufacturer)
replacements.
You can see a significant difference between O.E.M. and after market parts. That being said, you can try and put a small bit of Teflon around the seat where the diverter sits. I don't feel their is an issue with wasting water, if it's driving you crazy you can most certainly open the diverter fully so it only comes out of the spout and then purchase a tub nozzle with a built in pull up diverter in it.
But be forewarned, that most of the aftermarket pull up diverters will allow water to trickle out. A.K.A not 100% shut-off..Regards and thanks for watching, Bob.
+BobsPlumbingVideos
Thank you for the quick response. I replaced everything new stem, diverter, seats, everthing. Not wasting water. It is very slight when using the shower. I'm satisfied. Again thanks. PEACE
Hi i have a question . sometimes the water coming from the shower head is very hot and gets cold again and then hot again . and in the bottom is ok. What could it be?
I would check the washers on both the hot and cold water stems, they may be old and soft. Expansion and contraction causing the fluctuation in temperature. My first place to look.
Bob thanks for the video. Very helpful. I have a 3 faucet bathroom setup and needed to replace a stripped diverter stem. I found an equivalent American Standard stem and installed. I can successfully divert water from the tub nozzle to the shower head but the faucet handle just spins continuously clockwise and counter clockwise. Before the nozzle would stop after 1.5 turns in either direction. If installed uninstalled a few times. Everything looks good on the stem. Any help would be appreciated.
Is it possible that the inside of the handle is stripped away. This will happen occasionally in which case I replace the handle and problem solved. Feel free to send me some photos.info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.
I followed your video, thank you so much for your help. Although a slightly different design, it was close enough to help me. Quick question....I'm replacing a Kohler diverter stem that is exactly the same as the old. I replaced the seat and all looks well. The problem is that after wrenching down the stem the diverter won't operate (rotate any direction...as though it is binding). I've had it off several times and can't see anything that would interfere with the operation. After I remove the stem and have it in my hand, the diverter opens/closes freely. I just did this in my other shower without a hitch....this 2nd bath is proving a little more difficult. Thanks for any help that you can be.
why would the rubberwasher be moving and sticking when I turn it to get water up to the shower head? Please and thank you. The stem is brand new.
These are just the videos I needed. I need you to go a bit further, though. I have a 1950s Gerber shower body. I replaced Hot and Cold and Diverter with new Gerber parts. I still have water dripping/shooting out of shower body/stem o-ring connection on cold, especially when the diverter is in the shower position. Is there some other prep I should do at the point? Or is it time to call someone to install new shower body?
Great videos. My brothers house has a problem. The tile guys made a new wall around the shower body and the handles are now to close to the wall any way to fix that without breaking wall and repiping everything. I noticed yours are pretty close too.
Unfortunately not! depending on the manufacturer there are a minimum and maximum depths to consider. Once I set my body in place and the tile guy or carpenter screws up, it's on them. The exception is some of the better-made shower body's (mainly single lever) offer extension kits for those kinds of mishaps!
Thank you
I replaced the hot and cold side stems a few months ago. Now the shower is dripping a lot from the shower head. Would replacing the diverter fix it?
No, the diverter stem controls flow between the spout and shower head only. Did you replace the internal seats when you replaced the stems? If they're compromised in any way, the new stems won't help.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Yes the seats were replaced. Will have to re check the stems to see if they are sitting properly.
So what if the old diverter was made fully of plastic and using the moen pull device the plastic broke off in half so some of it is still stuck.
This video is specifically for the Gerber Three Valve body. Who's valve are you working on? Feel free to send any photos of your job...info@robertsessaplumbing.com.
Bob what do you think of sharkbite couplers? I have pex, and I will need to make a copper to pex connection. Using a sharkbite coupler is fine, right?
I like them as they give you many options in connecting different materials. Clean and simple and you can also easily take them apart. A little pricey compared to using traditional hard copper tubing. Unfortunately they're not code approved in N.Y. Definitely have to shoot a video on the subject!
What brand tub/shower set is that? I have a Moen and it is horrible. The valve stem is plastic and I don't see a way to fix the diverter valve, looks like I have to replace the entire 3 valve set. The plumbers who put it in 12 years ago were trying to say that it was better than what Home Depot carried. The old one that the plumbers replaced was 40 years old and still good. We had it replaced because we were changing copper to pex. That one you have in your video looks very well made. I want to get one like that.
The Brand in the video is made by Gerber which is a very common valve here in New York. Well made and reliable all brass construction. If you'd like to send me some photos to info@bobsplumbingvideos.com, I'll see if I can help you!. Also please be aware that all the plumbing fixtures and fittings that the big box stores sell, are not the same products you purchase in a plumbing supply. They are made with lesser quality materials so those stores can offer them at a better price point.
What size socket to get out the diverter stem?
They're going to vary by manufacturer. The one I'm using in the video is 29/32 and the manufacturer is Gerber. Hope that helps!
I replaced the stem and seat with exact models on all three handles. I did have water coming out of both shower and tub but then I realized that there was a washer missing on my diverter stem. I bought a new. Now when I installed it I have water coming out of the shower only. When I turn to spout nothing comes out. Any idea what I've done wrong?
Could the washer that was missing be lodged inside the shower body? Was it there when you installed it and missing when you removed it?
I never noticed it but I bet you're right. I bet it is in there. Any advice for finding it and getting it out?
Wow, cap off the shower head, remove the tub spout and have the nipple open and pray! LOL! Maybe it will force the washer out the bottom
BobsPlumbingVideos no sign of the washer. Took the spout off but didn't come out. However, if I put the stem back in without that washer on it that was missing, then water comes out of the tub and shower. So I guess the tub isn't clogged. Idk what I'm doing wrong at this point
Thanks for video. I have a 3-handle Price Pfister tub/shower faucet. It is leaking to spout badly now when shower. My diverter stem looks just like yours. When mine is turned all way in the water fully comes out of spout, opposite to the one in your video. Does it mean mine was installed up side down (by a previous owner)? I took the stem out and can understand why the water is shut from one way when the handle is turned all way in. But I cannot figure out how the other way works. I got a worn and loose nylon ring on the stem. Is it the problem? What is ring for? It seemed you touched it a bit in the video. Can we explain more? I will very appreciate it.
William, essentially the divert-er works the same way as the Gerber version. I would just purchase a new divert-er stem or send me a digital photo of yours to info@bobsplumbingvideos.com and I'll see if I can help!
Hi Bob, great information in the videos. I have a 3 piece faucet bath set. The diverter has recently jammed tight! Has this happened because of limescale? I am going to remove the diverter and try to clean it, but perhaps its best to just replace it with a new one.
Depending upon where in the country your located that is a possibility. We have pretty good water here in NY City and don't run across hard water deposits. All that being said, if you have a unit that been in service for a number of years replacing the divert-er is not a bad idea!
P.S. make sure the screw that holds the washer in place didn't back itself out and get caught up inside the shower body. Good Luck!
Actually living in Europe, but your videos are by far the best I've come across, congrats. The unit has been in service for about 6 years, not long, but the previous unit seized up on the previous owner. I'm having trouble finding a replacement part, that's why I'm trying cleaning. Have you any online shops?
Thank you! No online shops yet, but why don't you send me a few pic's and I'll see if I can help. E-mail:info@bobsplumbingvideos.com.
the handle and the spindle stem are both stripped on my diverter knob. otherwise the valve works great. can I replace or repair the stem, or do I need to replace the whole valve?
+Raul Morin I don't see any reason you would have to. If you can find an original equipment replacement diverter, you can just replace it and save the rest of the valve. What brand are we looking at? Can you send me a couple of pictures?
Do you know where to find the middle round part on the stem separately. I bought a universal kit from Home Depot & both ends fit except the middle part.
What I did to make it work took out the new both ends out and inserted it in the old middle part of the stem and made it work.
I would like to know If I can just buy the middle round part of the stem in case for the future.
I will appreciate your help!
Not sure exactly what part you're referring to? Can you send me a picture? Send it to info@robertsessaplumbing.com.
I am having trouble installing the new diverter stem. It appears to be the same as far as I can tell. I took the old one with me to the store to make sure it was a good match. Yet When I try and install the new one it just spins and wont grab the threads on the inside. Looking inside with a flash light the threads seem fine and there is no debris preventing the thread from grabbing. I also inspected the thread on the replacement they seem ok to. The valve is backed off like you show in the video yet the whole thing just spins away forever when I try and install it. Only difference I can tell is that the old one was missing the seat washer making it about an 1/8 of an inch shorter. Trying a different manufacturers replacement or removing the seat washer is the only thing I can think of but if I understand the video correctly removing the seat washer would cause leakage. Any ideas or recommendations?
David,send some digital photo's to me at:info@bobsplumbingvideos.com. Take a shot of your shower body and of the diverter your trying ti install
Hello, Bob
I want to make sure I get the right parts. Would it be a good idea to disassemble the diverter parts and take them into the plumbing supply store for identification? Thanks, Linda.
Absolutely, it's the best choice when you're not sure of who the manufacturer is! Good luck!
I have replaced the diverter valve, and all parts are accounted for. But water still comes thru the faucet when I have the shower on. Not Luke before, but still some. I believe these were the original parts I am taking out, and the house was built in 1975... so would it be calcium builduyp or something like that causing this??? Not sure what else to do now...
By the way... Fantastic videos... 😀
A. did you use O.E.M parts or aftermarket parts? O.E.M. is the way to go, also sometimes even thought you use new parts bear in mind you're installing them into the existing body which could be the culprit.
+BobsPlumbingVideos
they were Danco made for Price Phister. That may be the issue. I have also found out that that the shaft is not long enough or the escutcheon is to long to allow me to put it together. I am going back to see if home depot has the parts with longer shafts
John Knopp Danco is after market and Price Phister make two different length diverters. This could possibly be the issue
What size is that tool 1/2
29/32 deep socket.amzn.to/46A4bcR
Very informative, thanks
Moe Caddy Plumber Apprentice
MOE L213 Thanks Moe appreciate the compliment. Happy Plumbing, Bob.
Hi Bob, great video but I have one issue. I cannot remove the valve with the socket wrench - it seems to be stuck.. Any suggestions? Thanks.
+PamG Make sure you're using the correct sized socket, place the diverter into the neutral position (half opened / half closed) or fully open position. A little elbow grease!
+BobsPlumbingVideos I have the correct size - 29/32. I did try to remove it in both positions and it still will not move. I used as much elbow grease as i could.
Time to call in a Pro, you could possibly damage the shower body if you have to use excessive force. Better off safe than sorry!
BobsPlumbingVideos Correct. Sounds like someone used the old fashioned "pipe dope" on it, or it's so calcified it won't budge & could bed the entire tee in there. 👍🏼
@@quietmadness1768 ..moo
HI Bob! I have a diverter style I am unable to locate online for instruction on how to fix the leak myself. I have the type that pulls out from the wall; so a separate handle for hot and cold with the pull-out in the middle which now sprays water. Would you know the proper name for this style diverter? I live in Canada and my home was built in 1988
Take a few picture of your valve and send them to :info@bobsplumbingvideos.com, I'll take a look!
Thanks Bob.
David Kruger You're welcome David, thanks for watching
1
Bob - I replaced the Hot and Cold valve stems and seats, and now there's no leak from the faucet when it they're turned off, but if you turn on cold, water leaks from the handles of the diverter and hot; if you turn on hot, water leaks from cold and the diverter. What's causing this? Will replacing the diverter fix it? Thanks!
Sounds like you just need to tighten or pack the stems. That's the first nut you'll notice when you remove the chrome sleeves. You can try to snug them up, if that doesn't do it, you might have to remove the nut a install some graphite packing. amzn.to/1xSq81L. Let me know!
BobsPlumbingVideos Thanks - I'll try that out. I'll add some thread tape as well.
Do I have to shut the water off?
questionguy If your working on only the center diverter stem and the hot and cold water don’t leak, no. If the hot and cold water leaks, it may be a good idea to shut down the water.
Thanks for the great videos Bob. I need to change my diverter in a similar but old unit and would like to use OEM however I don't know where to get brsnd name info. Actually I would like to replace diverter stem with a longer one. The actual problem is that I bought a flip house and everything was put over old walls etc. The tub surround is actually on top of tile so the stem handle was just barely catching. This ultimately resulted in the splines wearing out. My fiancée is not too happy with the small grip plier handle solution. any Ideas?
If you send me some digital photos, I'll try to identify it for you. Send them to info@bobsplumbingvideos.com. Because you added another layer over the existing tiles might cause a problem. The shower body may now be set to deep into the wall and the only fix might be to move it forward. That means unless you have access from behind, you would have to open the wall. Send those photos and I'll take a look. Regards, Bob.
My diverter stem seems to work its way unscrewed over a period of time - my kid will be taking a shower and switch to bath and the whole thing will come out and shoot water out from where the stem screws in. Do you know what the typical causes of this are?
Paul if you can take some digital photos and e-mail them to info@bobsplumbingvideos.com. I'll try to identify it and come up with a solution.
I've recently started having problems with water not flowing up to my shower head like it should, while lots of water still pours into the tub. By the time I get out, water is up to my ankles. Ugh! I suspect I need to do the repair in this video, but I'm not sure I have the tools, or expertise, to do it. It looks simple enough, but if I can't do it myself, about how much does this sort of repair cost?
It depends! Where are you located! Are you going to hire a plumber or handyman? Are they using original manufacturer parts or after market parts? A divert-er stem replacement in the New York area could run anywhere from a low of $125.00 to as high as $250.00 and beyond.I personally feel if you're not sure and or don't have the tools, hire a professional. It'll be much more cost effective in the long run.Good Luck and Regards, Bob.
My diverter moves inside the valve when I turn the diverter from faucet to shower. If I tighten too much it does not divert
Aftermarket or original parts?
Hey Bob, my husband and I watched your videos on replacing the diverter and the hot/cold for a three-way plumb. What do you do when you've replaced the diverter, but water is still coming from shower and faucet at the same time? We tried using a brand new diverter and also tried rebuilding the original diverter we had--same results both times.
Chelle G Can you forward me some photos of your shower body? Send them to info@bobsplumbingvideos.com. Does not make sense?
BobsPlumbingVideos We figured it out. We had to tighten it down the outside handle a little more than we were comfortable with, but it finally stopped leaking from the faucet when the shower is on. Is there anything that we can use to replace the hard white washer so that it will have less chance of cracking again?
Chelle G That washers is part of the divert-er stem and to the best of my knowledge their is no replacement.
+Chelle G I had the same problem. No matter how tight the new diverter was, water still came out of the tub spout. I had to install a spout with an internal diverter to resolve it.
Chelle, All things equal if you got a new original factory replacement diverter and also replaced the internal seat. It's quite possibly may be an issue with the body interior. Rare but it does happen. Thanks for watching!
What if it’s stuck and the diverter won’t come out?
If your referring the the Gerber diverter in this video, you should be able to unscrew it counter clockwise and pull back on it. In some cases I'll grab the stem and give it a good yank if it's stuck. Just make sure you unscrew it completely before pulling on it.
closed it is coming out the shower, NOT going into the main seat.
opened it is opened the water IS GOING into the main seat.
Basically people do not understand that the WATER is not coming out
of the MAIN SEAT, but rather GOING INTO IT when water going to the tub.
Yes, this is opposite the hot and cold stem.
Hey Bob, I just stumbled across you today, and I am glad I did. I have a question. You mentioned in another video about replacing the end washer back in the day, but times are different... My question is as you know there are at least 4 different sizes available for my 1/2". I fear the answer is yes, but is it imperative that I use the exact size 1/2" because quite frankly in my limited experience it is usually very difficult for ME to tell what size the old ruined one is. It seems only logical to me that I would not want to replace it with one that does not fit completely inside the rim, but it seems difficult to get ANY size to fit what I would consider perfectly. Is that fit critical, and if so how do I determine which one to use?
I am not saying you are the only one who does it, but I have watched quite a few repair vids and you are the ONLY one who taught me the importance of having the valves completely open, then closed. Thank you. I think I may not have paid any attention to that when I repaired one a while back and was lucky, but I intend to redo it. Your response will be very greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.
Rickerson, are you referring to replacing the rubber washer as opposed to the entire diverter stem? When I use to replace washers and seats I carried an assortment of flat and or beveled washers and would use the exact size required. The cup on the end of the stem would be of a certain size and I would match the washer to the exact size of the cup. You also want to be certain the seat inside the body is in sound condition.
I managed to get the nut off, but the diverter stem still does not come out. What am I doing wrong?
Which nut! Removing the packing nut won't allow the stem to be removed. You must use a deep socket wrench if the shower body is set deep into the wall.
why is my deverter white plastic, and why when the maintenance man replaced my diverted (it was stuck on shower no matter which way i turned the middle knob) i lost more than half of my water pressure? it takes like 5times longer to get the shampoo out of my hair now!!
I install a new diverter stem the water only goes down to the faucet and the water does not go up to shower head.
Was it going up top prior to replacing the divert-er? Cloud something be blocking the riser pipe going up to the shower head? Try removing the shower head and trying it. Let me know!
BobsPlumbingVideos
Yes, there was something blocking my shower head. I went bought a new shower head. Everything work great. I replace hot water, cold water and diverter stems.Thank you for a fast responds.
Bob great video. What do you do when the diverter is stuck in the shower position? The handle just keeps spinning.
Fields0921 Is the inside of the handle stripped? (new handle) or the end of the stem stripped? (new stem) Or is the the stem just frozen in the shower position?
what first video are you talking about?
Three Valve Shower Body Repair - Part 1
thanks !!!!........just what I needed .....but watch that focus ok ?
I wonder how home owners did it before UA-cam.
Thanks !
gRosh08 You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Tanja, the inside of faucet seats as a rule are either square or hex shaped.I own one straight seat removal tool that has each shape on either end and is graduated in size the deeper it enters the seat. Check out this angled version www.amazon.com/LASCO-13-2105-Stepped-Angled-Removal/dp/B000FHBIEK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1407679628&sr=8-7&keywords=faucet+seat+removal+tool. I've never had to purchase a "SET" of tools as this one tool has served me for 99% of all seats I've ever worked on. When you remove the divert-er it should be in the full open position, not pushed up against the seat.
WOW!!
Thx
Thanks for bringing that to my attention! You can e-mail me directly info@bobsplumbingvideos.com and I'll be happy to answer any questions. Regards, Bob.
Thanks Stephen, I try my best to give a real world view of what happens in the field. You can always send me photos if you get stuck, my e-mail is info@bobsplumbingvideos.com. HAPPY PLUMBING!
what first video? can't get my handle off
ua-cam.com/users/redirect?redir_token=9NYwBIWnIbCwRtbE3LEV2D6oibB8MTUzNjc4MTc1NkAxNTM2Njk1MzU2&q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bobsplumbingvideos.com%2Fthree-valve-shower-body-repair-part-1%2F&event=video_description&v=KjmAZjfpEq8
Look in the description box below the video for Parts #1 and #2. I left the links!
Am I the only one that heard "stems and seeds" in the intro?