One more keel type to mention, a "Winged Keel". Shaped more like a jet aircraft wing. I have a 43 foot Irwin with a winged keel and my draft is 4'-10'', with a keel weight of 7000 lbs. So Bahamas here I come. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
I've been reading about sailing and watching sailing vlogs for over a year. That was the best 15 min lesson I'd ever had. Tim..... do more of these types of videos. You are a really good teacher.
Most people should paint their anode in one place. Typically there is a spot on the anode where the metal is thin next to the screws where they are secured. You should paint a little of the spot next to the screws, so that it doesn't get eaten as quickly and fall off before the rest of the anode gets eaten. So many times the anode gets eaten away by the screws and falls off when there is like 80% of it left. Maybe even paint the screws a little.
Very informative Tim, a joy to watch to the point with no waffle. You're looking relaxed, time ashore for recharging batteries and getting Lady K ready for next year is obviously working out well.
Very informative Tim... newbie sailors will gain a lot of knowledge through your videos and mini series. Perhaps mentioning stern design and hulls and the differences and their performance. We love our double ender Dreadnought Tahiti Ketch . She just had a survey this morning down here in Moore Haven Florida. The surveyor loved her. He was amazed by the old technology Sabb engine that keeps her moving.
You can have a centerboard and be a sailboat just fine. "Keel hulls" are great hulls because just as you say it makes for a "lifting body" but most importantly provides "trim" to any vessel(a lack of drift/natural direction). Great for a rowboat actually.
Some keel trivia - "Bulb" keel, or also referred to as "winged keel," arrived on the scene after Australia II won the 1983 America's Cup, the first win by a non-American boat in the history of the Cup. Australia II hid the underbody of the boat throughout the entire series with tarps until it was revealed after they won that they had a never-seen-before winged keel. Within a few years, winged keels showed up on many production sailboats.
We draw 5' 8", Tayana 42. It has a long fin.almost like,a full keel, with deep forefoot. The keel end at prop aperture, then we have a skeg like,you which the rudder hangs on. We had both fin and long keels and I feel that's our is a fair compromise. Tracks better than a full keel, reverses alright and is extremely comfortable at sea. Great teaching video
Arek kaniewski ah you said Draw the depth of the water required to float the hull as opposed to draft ie. This boat drafts xxxx I guess it is the difference between the USA and Canadian dialect. The way Tim used the word draft jumped out at me! 🤣🛫
Awesome video. Anything on how to sail proper sailing procedures what to do and not to do about sailing would be amazing and a great help my wife and I both love your Channel and look forward to your videos every week
Excellent concise explanations. You might want to just mention NOT to jump in the water at your marina to check your anodes to see if there might be stray current. Might seem obvious but thought it should be mentioned.
Great episode Tim. Thanks for that one. I always like an opportunity to learn. Funny thing about the function and purpose of the anode. Electric water heaters have them for the same reason.
This is one of my favorite episodes. It felt like a real field trip! Enjoy your Smirnov ice Liquor drinks. Be careful those girly drinks can mess you up buddy! Thanks!
I apologize for commenting on a vid that’s two years old. I’m sure you figured this out by now. But Anodes are not effective defense against galvanic corrosion because they are softer than the metal you wish to protect. Rather, They provide galvanic protection because they have a lower galvanic “potential” from the metal they are trying to protect. Gold is very soft and lead is very soft ,but neither is likely to galvanically protect any metal you’d find on a boat. Your sail-drive would be a very good example, assuming the drive housing is made of some Aluminum alloy. You should make every effort to use an anode material that is more “Anodic “ than aluminum, like zinc or magnesium. Aluminum anodes are cost effective for brass or stainless, but not the exposed aluminum portions of your drive leg. Downloading virtually any example of the galvanic chart for metals will indicate the relative potential for the alloys listed . The greater the difference in galvanic potential, the greater the likelihood of the anode preferentially dissolving instead of the cathode. I am a fan of your channel and do not wish to be critical. I only wish you may find the information worth considering…..”rust never sleeps”
Thank you for this video! I am new to sailing and there is so much to learn. I was having a hard time finding you tube videos on this topic so I am grateful. I have a 2005 Catalina 350. I was not sure where the sacrificial zincs were located on the prop shaft but now I have a better idea. I also understand that there is another sacrificial zinc located in the heat exchanger. Are there any other places I should be aware of for sacrificial zincs? Thanks in advance to anyone that can offer a newbie some education.
In a marina, assume there are stray currents. There are boats with their shore power cord dipping in the water. Don’t use aluminum zincs in salt water unless you yourself check the zincs and knock off the soft stuff. Aluminum zincs, if not cleaned regularly, become pacified and useless. Anyway, I doubt you could find any in a marine store if your boating on salt water. Above all, don’t rely on your bottom cleaner to know anything about the importance of anodes and how to properly clean the surface and install them. You’ll have to educate him. Friend had to replace his prop at great expense and the same diver who put the prop on in the water, failed to keep a zinc on his shaft. It went without a zinc for about 5 mos., when a neighbor diving on his boat noticed there was no zinc on my friend’s boat. He’ll need another new prop.
Good video...thank you. Can’t believe all the snow. Headed to Montreal next week to visit family and look at a boat....spring is only 5 months away! Thank goodness I live in the south.... a week is all I can take lol. What are your plans for heading south or are,you going to tough out the winter?
Respect for the poppy Tim. And for the brief but very informative episode. A bit sad to see Lady K elevated with that cold white crap beneath her - she, you, and Candice definitely looked better in the Caribbean last fall!!
Got questions I just bought a Allmand tri cabin 35' They painted over her zincs on the hull Do I got to take the old ones off ( they're painted over) or can I just put some next to old ones ?
Can you do a vid on electrical grounding a yacht. Is connecting to your lead keel stainless bolts ok, will it deal with lightning for instance? Is a seperate rectangular copper plate necessary, more holes through the hull is a compromise worth doing? Just doors for thought as I am refitting a 1980’s S&S 30 here in Australia. Thanks for what you do!!
Looking at lady K’s sail drive at least on the video MORE then just your anode looks pitted. I would say that anode is barely doing its job and corrosion has started to attack the sail drive housing itself.
One more keel type to mention, a "Winged Keel". Shaped more like a jet aircraft wing. I have a 43 foot Irwin with a winged keel and my draft is 4'-10'', with a keel weight of 7000 lbs. So Bahamas here I come. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
I've been reading about sailing and watching sailing vlogs for over a year. That was the best 15 min lesson I'd ever had. Tim..... do more of these types of videos. You are a really good teacher.
This is one year old and I just watched this and subscribed! ❤️⛵
Most people should paint their anode in one place. Typically there is a spot on the anode where the metal is thin next to the screws where they are secured. You should paint a little of the spot next to the screws, so that it doesn't get eaten as quickly and fall off before the rest of the anode gets eaten. So many times the anode gets eaten away by the screws and falls off when there is like 80% of it left. Maybe even paint the screws a little.
You're organized, you're clear and you're fast. Good work.
Very informative Tim, a joy to watch to the point with no waffle. You're looking relaxed, time ashore for recharging batteries and getting Lady K ready for next year is obviously working out well.
Very informative Tim... newbie sailors will gain a lot of knowledge through your videos and mini series. Perhaps mentioning stern design and hulls and the differences and their performance. We love our double ender Dreadnought Tahiti Ketch . She just had a survey this morning down here in Moore Haven Florida. The surveyor loved her. He was amazed by the old technology Sabb engine that keeps her moving.
I really appreciate this video, I was aware that this can be a problem but I really didn't know why, your explanation makes perfect sense. Thank you!
You can have a centerboard and be a sailboat just fine. "Keel hulls" are great hulls because just as you say it makes for a "lifting body" but most importantly provides "trim" to any vessel(a lack of drift/natural direction). Great for a rowboat actually.
Thanks for the video very informative good to see you again.
Can't wait for you to get back out there. Keep up the great work.👍🍺
Some keel trivia - "Bulb" keel, or also referred to as "winged keel," arrived on the scene after Australia II won the 1983 America's Cup, the first win by a non-American boat in the history of the Cup. Australia II hid the underbody of the boat throughout the entire series with tarps until it was revealed after they won that they had a never-seen-before winged keel. Within a few years, winged keels showed up on many production sailboats.
We draw 5' 8", Tayana 42. It has a long fin.almost like,a full keel, with deep forefoot. The keel end at prop aperture, then we have a skeg like,you which the rudder hangs on. We had both fin and long keels and I feel that's our is a fair compromise. Tracks better than a full keel, reverses alright and is extremely comfortable at sea. Great teaching video
Arek kaniewski ah you said Draw the depth of the water required to float the hull as opposed to draft ie. This boat drafts xxxx I guess it is the difference between the USA and Canadian dialect. The way Tim used the word draft jumped out at me! 🤣🛫
Awesome video. Anything on how to sail proper sailing procedures what to do and not to do about sailing would be amazing and a great help my wife and I both love your Channel and look forward to your videos every week
Excellent concise explanations. You might want to just mention NOT to jump in the water at your marina to check your anodes to see if there might be stray current. Might seem obvious but thought it should be mentioned.
Great episode Tim. Thanks for that one. I always like an opportunity to learn. Funny thing about the function and purpose of the anode. Electric water heaters have them for the same reason.
Thank you for wearing a Poppy!!!
Great episode and Very Informative., love all your 101 videos
What a great video! Huge thanks from a beginner!
Very very interesting and clear information. Thank you et merci beaucoup. Bravo de: Montréal
Well done. Great info!
Hey Tim thanks I watch all your vids from Indiana living in Louisiana wanna go sailing real bad working on it with you inspiration
This is one of my favorite episodes. It felt like a real field trip! Enjoy your Smirnov ice Liquor drinks. Be careful those girly drinks can mess you up buddy! Thanks!
Worth mentioning the pointing performance of a fin keel. These boats tend to point higher than non fin keeled boats.
Look at the snow!!!
Great job Tim Very Informative..
Isn't it fun being back in Southern Ontario in the fall? We started winter early, just for you!!! ;)
Awesome vid! Thanks! I learned something and that is always a good thing.
Excellent information ! Thank you 👍
Thank you for all the info
I apologize for commenting on a vid that’s two years old.
I’m sure you figured this out by now. But Anodes are not effective defense against galvanic corrosion because they are softer than the metal you wish to protect. Rather, They provide galvanic protection because they have a lower galvanic “potential” from the metal they are trying to protect. Gold is very soft and lead is very soft ,but neither is likely to galvanically protect any metal you’d find on a boat.
Your sail-drive would be a very good example, assuming the drive housing is made of some Aluminum alloy.
You should make every effort to use an anode material that is more “Anodic “ than aluminum, like zinc or magnesium.
Aluminum anodes are cost effective for brass or stainless, but not the exposed aluminum portions of your drive leg.
Downloading virtually any example of the galvanic chart for metals will indicate the relative potential for the alloys listed . The greater the difference in galvanic potential, the greater the likelihood of the anode preferentially dissolving instead of the cathode.
I am a fan of your channel and do not wish to be critical.
I only wish you may find the information worth considering…..”rust never sleeps”
Awesome videos..please more 101 videos
Best video yet!
Might want to do a video on twin keel boats and catamarans. I'm actually searching for a smaller (26' to 30') twin keel sailboat.
Good stuff Tim!
Thank you for this video! I am new to sailing and there is so much to learn. I was having a hard time finding you tube videos on this topic so I am grateful. I have a 2005 Catalina 350. I was not sure where the sacrificial zincs were located on the prop shaft but now I have a better idea. I also understand that there is another sacrificial zinc located in the heat exchanger. Are there any other places I should be aware of for sacrificial zincs? Thanks in advance to anyone that can offer a newbie some education.
great video. how about sail drive vs. prop: pros & cons? maintenance, reliability, costs (upfront and long term). thanks!
Great video. Very informative. Hope you enjoyed your Smirnoff 😂
In a marina, assume there are stray currents. There are boats with their shore power cord dipping in the water. Don’t use aluminum zincs in salt water unless you yourself check the zincs and knock off the soft stuff. Aluminum zincs, if not cleaned regularly, become pacified and useless. Anyway, I doubt you could find any in a marine store if your boating on salt water. Above all, don’t rely on your bottom cleaner to know anything about the importance of anodes and how to properly clean the surface and install them. You’ll have to educate him. Friend had to replace his prop at great expense and the same diver who put the prop on in the water, failed to keep a zinc on his shaft. It went without a zinc for about 5 mos., when a neighbor diving on his boat noticed there was no zinc on my friend’s boat. He’ll need another new prop.
Good video...thank you. Can’t believe all the snow. Headed to Montreal next week to visit family and look at a boat....spring is only 5 months away! Thank goodness I live in the south.... a week is all I can take lol. What are your plans for heading south or are,you going to tough out the winter?
Recommend you use a multi meter to confirm no resistance between new anode and shaft or keel or sail drive it’s on.
Great video. That snow yall have up there you can keep, lol. When are you going to be heading back south
Good stuff, learn a lot.
I never knew, great info ..
Love the “girly ^drinks”!
what? no sure what you are referring to? pls advise-thx
Michael Denton 16:19
@@chriskirchner5094 i see now. He needs to stay away from dem girly and dem manly drinks. LOL
Thank you
Respect for the poppy Tim. And for the brief but very informative episode. A bit sad to see Lady K elevated with that cold white crap beneath her - she, you, and Candice definitely looked better in the Caribbean last fall!!
Very good video !! Thanks :-)
Got questions
I just bought a Allmand tri cabin 35'
They painted over her zincs on the hull
Do I got to take the old ones off ( they're painted over) or can I just put some next to old ones ?
How about anode for your iron keel, how would you install it?
Can you do a vid on electrical grounding a yacht.
Is connecting to your lead keel stainless bolts ok, will it deal with lightning for instance?
Is a seperate rectangular copper plate necessary, more holes through the hull is a compromise worth doing?
Just doors for thought as I am refitting a 1980’s S&S 30 here in Australia.
Thanks for what you do!!
What's the red pin on your jacket?
Very very interesting
Glad you think so!
What's with all the white stuff? Thought you were allergic unless it was sand.........
That was a great video! Can’t Cant for the next one! Btw, what’s your near future plans?
Dude,, my 81 Mariner has 0 Anodes,,it was a Bare boat, nothing is rotten but it's been in fresh for 10 years,, idk what to do..
What about your skeg
No one ever mentions Bilge keels??
You didn't cover center boards.
you didn't bring up your skeg hung rudder.
Dude you need another song
Looking at lady K’s sail drive at least on the video MORE then just your anode looks pitted. I would say that anode is barely doing its job and corrosion has started to attack the sail drive housing itself.
Man, your on land. Car view strange.
*not sure what you mean? he must be using a cell phone to **0:26** record. there's a lot strange comments-is it just me.?! LOL*