Just to let you know the bushing by the impeller is easy to get off the impeller is threaded on the shaft I thought I was going to break mine until I twisted it and wala. I will be making new bushings out of oilite material I fixed it last year with belzona epoxy and drilled back out to 3/16 I didn’t do anything with the cap bushing at that time this time I am just making both new as well as a spare set
@Guillaume Monette Probably too late, but I just ordered these: www.bearingscanada.com/Plastic-Bearing-POM-R4-Glass-Balls-1-4-x-5-8-x-p/plastic-pom-r4-glass-1-45-8019.htm
I have the same problem with a 2 yr old qhirlpool dishwasher. Brand loyalty is a concept manufacturers do not seem to understand. I am using a maytag washer and dryer that are over 30 yrs old. Manufacturers seem to want to exploit brand loyalty but have no concern on how to develop it. Loyalty happens when someone comprehends the good value they get from a product. This cheap bushing is an example of saving a dollar or so to possibly have a product to intentionally fail to early. I would be interested to find out if whirlpools higher end brands have the upgraded parts in them.
Dishwasher fills with water/drains but won’t clean. Started UA-cam research and found this gem. Thank god people take the time and energy to make videos sharing their finding. I have a diff model than you but i took it all apart. Motor had a hairball. Reassembled and it works great. Thanks again, you are a hell of a guy I don’t care what they say about you.
Thank you so much for the video. 3 year old appliance set from Whirlpool... Small piece of hard plastic preventing the impeller from spinning. I'm so happy right now. Almost as happy as when my kids were born. Very close.
Wohoo! Thank you soooooo much. My dishwasher is under warranty and they will replace the wash motor as soon as they can get the backordered part. Could be months until it gets here. I took a dowel, put it against the motor you hi lighted, tapped the dowel with a hammer and voila, motor has worked for 10 wash cycles and the motor is not voided by me pulling it out! You saved Christmas in my house.
I have a Kitchenaid dishwasher which cost twice as much as the whirlpool but has the same motor. I changed the whole assembly but I appreciate the video. I will attempt a repair to have a back up. Great Job
This was a real lifesaver. I found the problem exactly as you described it. Cheapass 'bearing' wore out within 2 years allowing the motor field to contact and seize the armature. My solution was to install a $7.49 ball bearing. It took a bit of research for the small bearing and a cut up old credit card for a shim (probably any .030" hard piece of plastic will work) and a drilled out bushing over the armature shaft. Working perfect! Thanks......
Cant thank you enough for this video. Saved me $170 for the part alone. I was skeptical after removing the graphite spacer and seeing it was in much better condition than the one in the video. Went ahead and replaced with the bearing, using heat shrink to fill the gap. Its in the kitchen running again as I type this.
Thanks I didn’t do all the steps that you did. But I was able to take apart my pump and clean it out. Now it’s working again. Saved myself about $200 bucks on a new pump.
First of all, THANKS FOR THIS VIDEO! You saved me at least $350!!!! I live overseas for work, in a small country, dishwashers are rare and the cost of repairing and parts is literally double or 3x the cost in the USA. My bushings were just a little worn, but there were little pieces of plastic that had jammed up the impeller. I also cleaned out the magnet area while I was at it. When I called the a-holes at Whirlpool they wanted me to order the entire assembly, which with the weight and the customs taxes, would have been $350 to $400. I can't thank you enough! Awesome job man!
World Genius Prize to the guy who decided to install this motor horizontal. The magnet weighs on the bearings/bushings while turning: graphite or not, it's going to wear through. I have three aquarium pumps with the same kind of motor and they're vertical. The bushings are plastic/rubber and those pumps are immortal. In my hoover dishwasher? Horizontal. It stops randomly, then starts again if you hit the machine or turn it off and on again. Yep, guess Im' going to thank you for this video :)
Just a thank you for showing the disassembly of the pump. I got here by searching for the Askoll M310 part number and with your video I was able to disassemble the motor side of the pump housing without removing any of the cinch clamps from the dishwasher. Found a plastic label from a dish caught in the impeller. Reassembled and we're back in business.
This was exactly my issue. I had been dealing with the whirlpool dishwasher not running for a year now... Been replacing parts here and there trying to get to work. Finally stumbled across this video, ordered the washers and put them in... Washer now working!!!
Hello Antonio, I have the exact same pump part # and I am having that issue. Can you please help me find out what exact bearing to buy, in order to replace the worn out one ? I am in Canada and it's my first time trying to fix these things, so I can't buy from McMaster-Carr like the OP suggested. Thanks in advance for your help and thanks for posting this :)
This is exactly what my dishwasher has been doing. It’s almost 2yrs old, but has been doing it for at least the last year. I assumed the kids were coming along behind me or I had only imagined that I had turned it on.... Already had to fix the control on it. Husband followed your video and ours is worn down really badly. Thank you for saving us $150!
My 2 and 1/2-year old Whirlpool stopped spraying, I replaced the water valve ($26.00) thinking it couldn't be the motor, but it was. So I proceeded to take out the motor . It wasn't even as loose as your's but I cleaned it up re-assembled it and that was it ...It's working strong now! ( It is the quietest dish washer I've ever owned ).....There has to be a cheaper source for that little motor.........but it's good for now. So great big THANKS MAN!
I made kind of a panic purchase and bought the whole assembly for $300 because the $100 pump wasn't available. It will be installed this weekend - then I'll investigate the old parts to see what caused the problem. Thanks for the video.
Great video - thanks! The bushing in my motor turned out to be ok, but the permanent magnet on the rotor was cracked, split down the middle. I glued it back together with epoxy and it's running like a champ!
Thanks for the videos! You gave me the courage to not get a new dishwasher (was going to be approx $1k), and I just got the non-Whirlpool motor on EBay (approx $60)… my 20 year old son changed it out and now my dishwasher is working great!
Thanks for the Post. Our Kenmore stopped circulating. Took everything apart, found small debris wedged inalong the magnet and housing. cleaned everything, sanded it with 1200grit to smooth everything out again. Reasembled everything and BINGO, everything worked. Took about 5 hours, between checking all other parts. Again, Thanks for the post.
Thanks for the video. Six years later, I believe the same pump assembly is $50 on Amazon. It's probably not worth the effort to try to fix these anymore. But I do appreciate your efforts and your video.
I applaud your ingenuity to replace the bearings. I didn't see what you did to fix the bearings near the impellor, but the impellor just unscrews from the shaft. It is easiest to replace just the motor by twisting it off/on, similar to the drain pump motor.
I have been wanted to do this to my motor as well. This is the second motor I put in the unit. I even bought the warranty and the company could not find any one to work on it. The thing wasn’t even a year old. Thanks for sharing
You are a man after my heart. I have a machine shop and I will be following your advice and trying to repair my pump if it turns out it is the problem. I don't have a wiring diagram but I think you said the motor runs on 120 Volts, so I think I will hot wire it before taking it apart. I like you, am sick and tired of buying junk and paying many bucks for it. It seems like I have to repair everything I buy. We have a Kitchen Aid (about 3 years old) which like you say uses the same parts. I will save this page and when I get it done I will contact you. Thanks guy Tony
I just finished doing your upgrade. I used a 5mm ID x 16mm OD bearing, the ID was perfect, but I had to ream out the OD slightly. Not too difficult. I was also tired and frustrated with the annual pump replacement. Thank you!
Thank you for creating this video! The pump on my WDT720PADM stopped working, I had whacked it with a screwdriver and it started up again, then I found your vid. Because of you, I was able to take apart the motor and found tons of scoring along one side of the chamber in which the impeller sits. The bushings weren't oval, so I sandpapered the scoring mostly smooth, cleaned everything out, reassembled it, and it came back to life. That lasted about a month, then it stopped working again. Pulled the pump apart, and saw some little black shavings inside the chamber. The top bushing had some slop to it, too -- far more slop than the new pump that I had purchased and was about to return. I guess the bushings were getting ground down and the shavings ended up inside the pump (maybe contributing to the scoring?). I ended up replacing the pump because we really needed the dishwasher working, but I'm still going to do your repair to the original pump as a backup for when the new one dies. The extra month of life we got just from cleaning out the pump was easily worth the time spent in tinkering with it.
I can't give you enough credit. I couldn't understand why something as simple as a circ pump could work intermittently. Fortunately, I saved my old parts from the last dishwasher and the pump was still good so I installed it, but plan on rebuilding the bad pump.
This same dishwasher pump motor is is in my Gold Series Whirlpool Dishwasher. The dishes would not get cleaned after the cycles. Found this vid on UA-cam. I decided to try this same repair on my dishwasher's circulation pump motor. What do I have to lose? The graphite bushing at the bottom of the pump motor housing was worn out (elongated) and the inside of the impeller shaft housing was scored same as indicated in the video. This elongated hole in the bottom bushing was creating uneven circular travel of the impeller shaft causing it to not spin when power is applied to the pump motor. The impeller shaft is operated using electro-magnetic power. So I ordered a couple of plastic ball bearing racers with glass ball bearings from a bearing company in Canada. The shipping cost was more than the cost of the bearings. (typical). The order cost me around $32. I couldn't find a 21/32 inch twist drill bit in my town, so I had to settle for 5/8 drill bit which was a bit too tight of a hole for the ball bearing to seat properly. I ended up gluing a piece of 120 grit sandpaper around a 5/8 dia. wooden dowel and twisted that into the hole until the ball bearing housing fit. I messed up the hole drilling of the motor housing by drilling too deep to the point where the drill bit almost came out through the motor bottom. If you try this repair, set up a drill depth gauge on your drill bit for a more precise drilling depth. I did the drilling by hand as recommended in the video but did not check my drilling depth until almost coming through the motor housing bottom. (I was watching TV whilst hand drilling and lost my concentration). I had to use a shot of JB Weld two part plastic epoxy to fill the void and then I tamped in the old graphite bearing into the epoxy as a filler. I let the epoxy cure overnight and in the morning, re-assembled the pump motor and re-installed it into the dishwasher. I reconnected the dishwasher wiring, drain hose and hot water supply line and fired the beast up for a test run on the 1 hour cycle.
Lord have mercy, the damn thing works again! No leaks or anything.This repair really works! saved me over $250 bucks by not having to replace the pump motor. We'll see how long the repair lasts. Thanks UA-cam, for archiving this info and a loud shoutout to the dude who posted this really great repair video. Like I always say, "knowledge is power".
You’d think with so many of the same issue, there would be a recall!!! Anyways, this was great! Thank you so much for the video. Finally got my first perfect cycle in a year!!!
It’s a scam by manufacturers to rip off consumers by having a seemingly insignificant, difficult to access/replace, but essential part that reliably fails shortly after the warranty is expired. It’s called “planned obsolescence “. With improvements in materials and design technology vastly improved over several decades, the manufacturers could produce products with regularly increasing life-expectancy for similar cost. Instead they deliberately make products that last 1/3 as long to artificially increase demand so that you have to buy something 3 times as often increasing industry profits (and resource extraction, waste, energy consumption, consumer cost, pollution, time to purchase, deliver and install) by 3. It should be criminal, it meets the criteria for what we criminalize, which is willfully causing harm to another. Causing a person to be deprived of their property, inflicting loss, compelling unnecessary costs are harms. Designing a product to have a short life span when a product of superior function and longevity can be made for substantially similar cost IS a deprivation of property, it IS a harm on the individual as well as society collectively, and it is theft by fraud. We as people do not deserve this, it’s time to do something about these crimes we suffer from, that victimize us. The worst criminals of all, are the ones that steal the most from us, and do it with a smile under a guise of respectability due to the prestige that’s been inflated for businessmen. Fuck them. It’s a crime.
Love this. I kid you not, several years ago Shark sent me a COMPLETE new upright vacuum cleaner in a box when a tiny little easily replaceable plastic clip piece cracked on mine while it was still under warranty.
You are the man. My washer would always turn on and start pumping for awhile, then stop and just click. The clicking is actually the water diverter just doing it's job and it's not part of the issue. I ordered the $50 Amazon 2 day replacement pump, but I just ordered the ball bearings and will repair my old one for a spare. Can't thank you enough, keep up the good work.
Viewed this repair almost three years ago. 3d printed the bearings. They lasted almost three years with no issues. Reprinted new bearings and the dishwasher is up and running again.
Thanks for sharing. I just pulled the shaft and it had food in it. The spindle mount was fine. I cleaned it out and it started right up. You saved me $100 thank you!!
Thank you! I was hoping to see how to remove the pump but you had started after that point. I am likely to repaeat your rebuild ,after I remove the pump. Will review other videos to see if you provided it elsewhere. I am glad to see you had taken to rebuild the motor. Planned obsolence is the name of the game. You are very correct in your various rants. thank you!
I have mostly Whirlpool appliances (including a dishwasher that looks very similar to yours and has started having a problem with not circulating the water through the sprayers) and watching your videos (and others) just makes me angry! The most important thing to me when making a significant purchase like this is that the engineering is solid. Wish I could know these things before making the purchase.
FYI and I know you already know, I was pulling my hair out and ready to just buy a new DW until I saw your video. Didn't take it all apart, but I did give it a good shake, and it might only be a temporary fix, but the DW is now working
SIMPLY AMAZING, finxed my problem 100% by showing me how to take this apart. I cleaned and inspected parts and reassembled, works like new! ... THANKYOU SO MUCH!!!
Great video! Took my pump apart and yes, both bearings were oval and there was scoring to the inner bore of the pump. I removed the bearings and clocked them both so the oval bearings are 90° off for a short term fix. Long term, I’m designing replacements bearings to be 3D printed in ABS plastic. We’ll see how that works. Thanks again man, saved us $180.
Hi John, could you please update us on how your 3D printed bearings are doing after 7 months ? I am curious since I am going to use the same solution. Thanks :)
You are a lifesaver. Watched your video and found it was the exact problem with mine. Thank you. BTW, yes, all these new appliances are junk and usually all made out of the same parts bin. No difference between the brands. Unless you wanna spend triple what one should cost.
Thank you for posting this! My WP had the same failure after 2.5 years. I used J-B weld to fill in the gap and drilled out the centers, I'll see how long that holds up. Thanks for mentioning that tapping on the motor caused it start up, that helped me pinpoint that this was my problem.
Good job. I've seen many poorly designed weak point failures on many consumer products, too many to believe they're unintentional. One comes to mind is a Ford motor that used a rubber belt for the internal oil pump drive. No one would check or replace a cheapo belt bc it cost hundreds of $ to get to it. When it fails you need a new motor.
Thank you for your video, it solved the problem with my dishwasher. the bearing was also worn out and the motor was working intermittently. Now, so far, it runs like new. it did save me a bundle. Thanks again.
Thank you for the video! I just replaced the same crap circulation pump on our kitchenaid (also made by whirlpool) after 3 and a half years. I did buy the whole bottom plate with the switch-over motor since the price was actually less than just the pump (pretty ridiculous but whatever). I took the non-working pump apart and same issue but a lot less wear on the bearings, they don't seem oval. There is one section inside the barrel where the rotor lives that has some scuffing. There is also some wear between the top of the rotor cylinder and the bottom of the top graphite bearing as it left some grooves in it. It almost seems like the barrel is not perfectly round anymore. Maybe it got deformed from heat. In my case the dishwasher would circulate in the beginning and then stop somewhere early in the cycle. I'm a bit surprised that the insides of the pump are exposed to the dirty water circulated through the dishwasher. This has planned obsolescence written all over it..
Totally. If someone was designing a piece of equipment that they were going to be responsible for repairing, they never would have done it that way. Obviously the boss said to the designers, "Make the pump cheap for us to make, expensive for the customer to replace, and make it last roughly 2-3 years with normal use." I wish there was a way to hold them accountable for our landfills that are visible from space and that huge plastic garbage island in the ocean.
@odousa I had this exact problem just last week. The barrel was not perfectly round and it looked like the permanent magnets were trying to poke out of the plastic they were enclosed in. This was causing the scraping on the housing. I filed the barrel down a bit and it's now working. Not sure how that happens. Heat? Weakening plastic / epoxy that houses the magnets?
UA-cam needs to fix it's search results. The two video I needed most required far to much scrolling. You are a rock-star. Pretty sure this will fix mine as well. I see you have a 1 year update so I am going to look for that too.
Really appreciate for your all Smart & hard work. This helped me a lot in saving hundreds of dollars on replacing a pump. I did use the plastic bearing you mentioned and it started working flawlessly. Even after a year you posted this video, it is still helping people like me. God bless you.
I have same problem in my sisters Hotpoint. Same bushing. Can be bought for $10 per set of two, but I replaced the pump and took it for repair. Going to fit full ceramic bearings from Ali. This should make this pump eternal :).
Thanks for the video, I wanted to mention once I pulled my recirculation motor apart the screen between the housing and impeller was completely clogged, I unclogged it and it started working perfect! (Just in case someone runs into that, its amazing how small the screen behind the impeller is, it didn't take much to clog it ).
Same problem here. Ours is 7 years old. Thanks for taking the time to document. Saved me a bunch of time. Debating next step. Not sure if I have the patience.
Same issue on our unit, fills and drains, but no startup to clean. I found water/moister inside the top of the electrical board under the black cap(green sticker) No conductivity. I need to replace mine. I opened it up and found the bushing worn exactly the same way as yours, Whirlpooh!
Thank you u are a hero I had the same issue for my Ariston dishwasher, and just now I fixed it, wow 😂😂😂 ... but instead of plastic ball bearing I used rubber o-ring which was orignally there but was too big causing clogging the motor, I replace that with the correct size and it done the job very well ... thank you again for sharing this project
thank you sir. my whirlpool dishwasher was doing the same thing as you described. Pump motor is a litttle different but similar idea. This video saved me some $$$$$$. thank you again.
Thank you for posting this! Just ran into this issue and would have replaced the motor if I didn't find this. It was really nice that you put the part number for the bearing in the video, it made it really easy to go to McMaster-Carr and grab what I needed. I used .17 ID 1/4 OD tubing. It ended up being a little thick once it was on the motor shaft, so I needed to shave it down a little.
Awesome video, this helped me a lot. My pump was completely clogged with hair so the motor couldn't spin. It looked like the bushing was still in okay shape though. Appreciate your video!
I never post comments on videos but I wanted to say thank you i used your video and links for the bearing and my dishwasher is now running like new! I hope yours is still working great also!
That's great to hear! I honestly didn't think anyone else would ever try this, but I'm so glad the video was worth it. Mine is still running great, so you should get at least a few months out of it. ;)
Thank you for both videos once again. You showed that these unjustifiably expensive parts Whirlpool wants us to buy are very well repairable with the right approach. Upon watching both Videos I bought ball bearings, 1/4" plastic tube and hose clamps and was waiting for them to come to take my Kitchenaid dishwasher apart. I should have disassembled it first to check the pump. :-) When I received the parts and took it apart I realised that nothing was wrong with the inserts in the circulation pump but metal insert in the circulation pump impeller rusted out completely. Impeller was just sitting loose in the circulation pump casing. So I ended up drilling remaining insert piece out from impeller, getting 18-8 stainless steel 10-32 thread size insert for plastic (McMaster-Carr # 92398A115) and gluing it into the impeller with LOCTITE EA9017 Epoxy. That was a perfect fit. Thread depth for the insert was a perfect match to the thread length on the pump shaft. It's working again and can hopefully last for a while before I need to fix it again.
Nice work! I've never heard of that rusting out, but it makes sense that the manufacturer would pay 10 cents for a chromed steel rod instead of 20 cents for a stainless one. Once the chrome is compromised, oxidation will always win. Greedy bastards.
You're one of those guys that makes me jealous. I can see what you're doing (AND YOU DID AN AWESOME JOB AT SHOWING HOW TO DO IT) but I don't have the "know how' to go after it, in my opinion. Will order the replacement and then try to fix the old one. Thanks for the video.
I wish you would point out the different components of the dishwasher. There was a nice view of everything when you had it upside down. Thanks for the video.
My washer doesnt always run either, for seemingly the same issue as yours. I found the likelihood based off it’s symptoms is the pump that runs the water through the sprayers. The cost difference for that motor assembly vs the entire “sump pump assembly” (the whole round bottom part with all the sensors and pump motor) was $20, so I just bought the whole assembly. Hoping the $157 part fixes this washer. I called some appliance repair places and they all want $125 just to come out and diagnose. Cost doesnt include repair or parts. Last time I had a guy come out to look at our old dryer, they said it needed a new board, which was $250. That dryer brand new 8 years prior was $399. Insane to put $250 into it. I just bought another cheap dryer for about $400 (this was years back before “supply chain issues”). Long story short, i 100% agree with your statements about manufacturers literally designing this crap to break and need almost entire replacement. It’s a joke.
Brilliant job man. You save me so much aggravation and save my marriage! We have a kitchen aid with this symptom for the past year. Luckily we have 2x dishwashers so the other one is still working 100%. Thanks so much for taking the time to do this. You should add kitchen aid to your title or keywords so we can find it easier. Thanks buddy!
Thanks for the video you did a great job explaining everything.... I took mine apart and didn't see any junk or Muck in the impellor and my bearing looked great no play (I know all about this type of pump I have fixed many plug and play hottubs) so I was ready to buy a new pump and on closer inspection the little mesh inside the pump was clogged ..we have pretty hard city water so it was calcium not food ..took a while to soak the mesh but I finaly got it free flowing ..pretty sure it will happen again but next time I will prob just go for the new pump....check the mesh folks I fixed mine for about 2 hours worth of pain in the ass time .... and Yes they are junk this was a very high end unit part of a package the fridge is junk I have fixed it twice and all the paint is comming of the stove top 4 yrs old
THANK YOU! After struggling with the same EXACT problem over the last few months (it runs 7 or 8 times before this happens - does cycle, but soap is on bottom at end of wash), so will inspect the pump. Just narrowing down the problem to this is a huge help. I will inspect the motor, but I am not as handy so may end out getting another motor unless I can get the actual part.
Great vid, you are true mechanic. My Dad and I would use lathe to make parts to fix things. Lost art today I have exact same situation. Found pump on amazon for 50 w next day. Dishwasher runs every day here and new machine is a grand, so.... but I like your comparison. Hate spending money on dishwashers, wish I had a 53 Chevy to spend money on.
Have to say this is a very good video well worth the time to watch! Well, I have a kenmore dishwasher, I’ve had at least 20 years still pretty modern with all the bell and whistles. If finally when up about a year or so ago just replaced the pump $150.00 about a month ago. I couldn’t stand it any longer not having my DW! I’m really surprised it lasted this long since I’ve read the comments and everyone else seems to have or had trouble with in a few years of purchase. My sisters went up about the same time as well “Maytag”. We could still use it but not load the top rack! Enough is enough! I wish I would of seen this video back then but didn’t thing about rebuilding the pump! I did save my pump and as have it her is the same model pump! So I’m going to give it a shot. At least one of can make out then I can rebuild hers too! I love UA-cam TG. It’s made my life so much easier Repairing, fixing and installing all kinds of things. Just put in a tankless water heater myself and did all the electrical myself, replaced a fuel pump in my vehicle, back splash in my kitchen and the plumbing, oh the list goes on!
Awesome video and thanks to the comment that explained that the impeller is screwed on. If you've taken your pump apart and you can see that the bottom bushing is somewhat worn off center then you will probably find that the top bushing between the magnet and the impeller is worn even more. When it's inside the dishwasher the motor shaft is horizontal and I think you might find that the wear happens on the bottom of the inside of the bushing. The wear on the magnet will probably be uniform all the way around the circumference, as will the wear on the steel shaft. If you stick your finger down inside the gray plastic cylinder that the magnet rides in, you will probably find that it is wearing on only one side. I think that when the motor stops it is pulled towards that side by gravity, and when the crud in the swirling water around the magnet comes to rest it then also drops to that side adding friction. Both bushings are held in place by a little o-ring. If you pop the bushings out of their o-rings and rotate them something less than 90°, you may be able to get your motor to run a little while longer. The shaft on my motor was worn worse than the bushings it was riding in so new bushings or putting in bearings is not going to be a solution. It's fairly easy to get the impeller off and the shaft out of both bushings but I do not think it is possible to do anything to repair the damage to the shaft. I find an entire replacement pump is about 60 bucks, and rotating the bushings to make it run a little while longer is probably only going to allow us to wash dishes until the pump arrives. I am very tempted to order some food grade grease and fill that cavity around the magnet but it might create so much drag that the motor doesn't work. You will notice for tiny holes that are designed to let the water in and I'm imagining that the water inside cavity that holds the turning shaft provides some cooling. Unfortunately as the video clearly shows as does my experience with my one pump confirms, that water brings in a lot of crud from the dishwasher and it probably accelerates the wear on the bushings. If the bushings were a little harder they would just eat the shaft up faster. In my motor, the top bushing between the motor and the impeller is actually less worn than the spot on the shaft where it rides. That spot on the shaft worn so badly that there's just no point in trying a repair. The whole dishwasher is about 5 years old. The most common power steering pump on larger Ford and GM vehicles wears out where the shaft pass through a bushing and much the same way. That pump is a cast iron housing with all metal parts, lasts about 5 years and only cost 50 bucks for a remanufactured pump after a $25 core charge. of course the pump is made to be remanufactured and all the cores go down to Mexico get rebuilt and show up in your local auto parts store. That one pump appears on lots of Ford and GM and some John Deere equipment. Much larger heavier pump costs less than this little Chinese made plastic gizmo.
Yep. My bushing are worn too. Just a junky dishwasher. Poorly designed pump. Maybe make a brass bushing but probably too much trouble. Off to the junk heap. Thanks for you video.
Been dealing with the same thing on our Whirlpool. It's been going on about a year. Dishwasher is only 3 years old. Great product put out by Whirlpool.
2:52 im having my lunch while watching this to figure out what i should do with my kitchenaid dishwasher that was quoted as 500+ to fix its water pump this morning, but I didn’t foresee this scene… no appetite now😂😂😂 but, really awesome tutorial and I’m still gonna watch it…😊
I just found 2 soap pods in the bottom of our dishwasher. It does the same as yours, I can hear something running but it never sprays water and the jets never spin. It drains and steams up my glasses when I open the door. Thanks for posting this.
I took as much of the inside of the dishwasher i could apart, without tools, and cleaned the hell out of everything then added drano. Finally worked!! I hope this helps someone
I did not change out the bushing for a bearing, but this did help me get the circulator working again. Now I know what to keep an eye out for. Thanks for the vid!
I ended up replacing the entire pump assembly for the same price as that stupid pump. I plan to rebuild the motors on the assembly for backup parts when the new parts ultimately fail. Thanks for the breakdown.
I replace two of those pumps already, so don’t feel bad! So my dishwasher is a Kenmore company that’s been on a business and it took me a while to figure out that it was a whirlpool really, I hate that!
@@johnrankie4004 That's pretty much how I see it! If I can't fix it, I was going to have to replace it anyway so what do I have to lose! I've now repaired my fridge 3 times, a lawnmower, the dishwasher, a carpet shampooer, and the vacuum!
Thanks for sharing your experience, i share your frustration on this particular issue and whirpool in general, i am having the same issue with my dishwasher and the weird thing is handyman in my area are charging $220-240 for replacing the motor which would be 350-400 so first get over charged for the spare part and then labor. I will surely try fixing the motor once with your guide and some other guides on how to remove the motor. Overall the market is priced to force the consumer to get a new dishwasher or high mark ups on spares, consumer looses anyway.
Thanks for sharing your experience and all the great tips. We also have a kitchen full of shitty KA appliances. None of them all work at any given point in time. We even have a KA range hood which is super finicky. I finally threw out the fridge after fixing it a few times. Just total garbage!
Thanks for the vid. You saved me a service call. I have the exact same pump in my whirlpool, but my issue was different. I found the impeller almost entirely unscrewed off the armature. I think it might have been binding against the housing. Screwed it back on tight and fix the problem. I noticed the bushings were made of metal and showed no signs of ware. The washer was purchased in mid 16. So maybe the manufacture used this better bushing because of the issues. Thanks again, you got me pointed the right direction and got it running again.
I'm curious what type of metal you thought they were? Mine definitely has graphite bearings like the video. I think ceramic bearings might work or even brass.
I’ve got a junky ass whirlpool too. Wdt720padm2 and I had to reach under the machine and whack it with a hammer handle to get it to start. Thanks for you video. Even if I fix this pump there will be another worthless mechanism to fail.
The old bushing looks like Delrin or some other polymer like nylon or nylok . I thought you were going to use your lathe and machine another Delrin bushing . Cool that you found a bearing race the right size . All the best to you and your loved ones . Thanks for your video Mark .
LOL same scenerio here at my house I bought all new Whirlpool appliances prepping for retirement. Fridge, 4 yr mark had to replace control board, Whirlpool dishwasher same model as yours pump dead, Electric Range the oven thermostat 30 degrees off, takes 30 minutes to get a 2 quart pot of water to boil on the largest burner. Top load washer so bad we junked it after 2nd bearing and seal failure. They make pure crap.
I found a brass water fitting that had the perfect size hole for the shaft. Shaped it by hand to be the exact size as the og bushing pressed right in with the og o-ring. Washer is spraying some serious water now!
Same issues here! Whirlpool dishwasher is crap, Whirlpool fridge is crap (broken wire harness on door), microwave is crap (constant clicking sound). I just replaced the sump & motor assembly, pulled the old one apart and same issue as you! Dishwasher started giving us problems at 4 years old. I will never buy another whirlpool appliance.
Thanks for posting this video. We had the same exact issue on our whirlpool..and it looked same when we opened the wash motor. We just cleaned it and put It back. The dishwasher is working well now..
I discovered this video after already buying and installing a new circulation pump. I decided to take the old pump apart, as per your excellent video, with the thought of replacing the bushing and keeping it as a spare. My pump has none of the scoring you showed and the bushing looks round and true. It is not ovalled out like yours was. Do you have any thoughts on why the pump may have stopped working. Do you think it is worth trying to fix and keep as a spare?
I don’t know how comfortable you are around electricity, but you could bench test it. Give it 110v from the wall and see if it moves. If not, try giving it a spin by hand and see if that gets it moving. If not, the motor could be fried. You could also check the resistance across the motor windings. You should read some small impedance. If you get zero or infinity, it’s shot.
Now my main pump out in my Whirlpool. Its not even 3 years old. It was not the cheapest unit nor the most expensive in the middle of the road unit for a Whirlpool. I have replaced so far in its life; the drain pump, Timer board (PCB), fill inlet, top rack spray unit, third row rack, all plastic rack retainers, and heater element. I have a family of 7 including the Wife and I. I do a load a dishes on average a day might go to two on weekends/holidays/big meals. I have a Maytag over-the-stove microwave (Maytag Whirlpool owned) - Top of their line. One year the door switches are out. This is not my only Microwave. Honestly I replaced the original Whirlpool Dishwasher that was in my place as it was original and the wife wanted new...still worked so I sent it over to my rental. That unit is close to 20 years old and the previous owners had 4 kids...the old unit still runs fine with 2 kids and a couple...It tells you something...
I feel like I might try it. I just replaced the flow switch on mine but that is not the problem. I was just hoping for a cheaper repair. I think I'll get my dishes washed in the sink and maybe get the motor out once my kitchen is a little tidier.
I have a Kenmore 665.13223N411 which is apparently a Whirlpool chassis. The panel on yours looks different, but the underside mechanics look identical to my own, so far as I can tell - definitely the same circulator pump assembly. When the washer was just over 2 years old, it started having problems where it seemed to be stuck in the middle of the cycle. Sometimes, it would seem to keep running and running and counting down, but never advance in the cycle. Other times, it would get to about 210 minutes and then it would stop and you could hear a relay click every few seconds - it would basically do this until the timer ran down to about 45 minutes, at which point it would drain and refill and then complete the cycle. You could typically remedy this by opening and closing the door and then pushing start to complete the cycle. I noticed at these times that if the washer was stuck, the heating element seemed to be on, and if you opened the washer up you would actually find that it had evaporated off nearly all of the water inside. The problem was very intermittent. The washer might run correctly for days, weeks, or even months, and then suddenly have the problem again. Interestingly, I always found that when this would happen, my water hardness was very high and upon investigation I had found that my softener was not working (that's a whole other issue). However, it does seem like there is some correlation to very hard water and tripping error codes in the washer. I found reset codes online, and pushed the 3 button sequence 3 times, then it shows you the codes (in my case F8 E2) and then runs a diag cycle. At the completion of the cycle, if no problem is found, it clears the codes and then the dishwasher functions normally for a while. Around this same time, I began hearing a rattling noise when the washer wash in wash mode. I always found it odd, but thought perhaps something was stuck in a filter or something that I couldn't get out. Washer continued to function normally so I never thought much of it. About 2 years on and maybe 10 resets later, the washer will no longer complete a cycle properly no matter how many times you open and close the door. Running the diag sequence always starts with an F8 E2 code and ends with an F8 E2 code. I now know this also means that the heating element gets disabled. I sat down the other night and babysat the washer. Ever 10 mins or so I tested water temp, and found the temp consistently declining (heater not working). Ran a diag cycle and it started and ended with F8 E2. I took the washer out of the counter and flipped it on its side with some towels. F8 E2 indicates drain pump, but when I inspected it... its not clogged, doesn't appear to have a problem, impeller shaft feels solid and motor feels good and quote strong. Inspected for and didn't find any wiring or connector issues. I removed the drain motor assembly from the pump housing by release the rubber grommet with a screwdriver and twisting it off. It was then that it was apparent that there was a problem as the impeller on shaft was extremely loose. I removed the 4 screws from the top of the pump and found, just like you, that the bearings on both sides of the impeller shaft were severely and oblongly worn. Also, there is tons of scoring on the inside of the housing where the assembly has been hitting the inside of the motor. Bingo, we found our problem. It is sad that there are no rebuild or bearing replacement kits for this model as it seems, with the screws involved, that even the designer of this pump intended the bearings to be replaceable. I have been toying with the idea of using some JB Weld to fill in the bearings and then drilling them out to the appropriate size and replacing with a generous amount of food safe silicon lube. Not sure if it will last a lifetime but can probably get through at least a year or so. I like your idea of using those plastic/steel bearings... same type they use on pool cleaner robots. My only reservation would be that they typically only last a couple years at pool cleaner RPMs so I don't think they will last too long in a dishwasher. At any rate, my JB Weld fix probably won't last, either. Its too bad we can't just source the replacement graphite bearing for this, hopefully with some decent quality control so they will not need changing again. It seems to me that graphite bearings probably should have been a lifetime part - seems there is some quality issue in the casting of these bearings IMHO. I guess I would hope that Kenmore/Whirlpool would issue some kind of recall but especially with Sears going under I think that is wishful thinking. BTW: If it has not happened yet, the upper rack guides in the chases snap off on these. They are made of plastic. There is a 3rd party that actually makes a stainless steel replacement for this part that does the job and will probably last the life of the unit. The only downside is that its design does cause a loss of a couple of cups' space on the top rack but I am OK with that. I agree with you that this model is problematic. Its very picky about detergents, water temp, and rinse agent. If you're not using high quality stuff the wash quality is poor. It has never dried anything well, and I don't bother anymore. The best combo I have found is Cascade Complete + Real Jet Dry although the Finish pods might be a close second. I currently use Members Mark pods and Great Value Rinse Agent and when the washer works... it works okay, but doesn't really match the Cascade. Its kinda sad that these few poor design decision mess up an otherwise decent washer. When it is working, with decent chemicals, it actually does a pretty good job cleaning and its quiet... was never too great at drying, though.
Just to let you know the bushing by the impeller is easy to get off the impeller is threaded on the shaft I thought I was going to break mine until I twisted it and wala. I will be making new bushings out of oilite material I fixed it last year with belzona epoxy and drilled back out to 3/16 I didn’t do anything with the cap bushing at that time this time I am just making both new as well as a spare set
Ryan Wolosek , thanks for the tip!!
@Guillaume Monette Probably too late, but I just ordered these: www.bearingscanada.com/Plastic-Bearing-POM-R4-Glass-Balls-1-4-x-5-8-x-p/plastic-pom-r4-glass-1-45-8019.htm
I have the same problem with a 2 yr old qhirlpool dishwasher. Brand loyalty is a concept manufacturers do not seem to understand. I am using a maytag washer and dryer that are over 30 yrs old. Manufacturers seem to want to exploit brand loyalty but have no concern on how to develop it. Loyalty happens when someone comprehends the good value they get from a product. This cheap bushing is an example of saving a dollar or so to possibly have a product to intentionally fail to early. I would be interested to find out if whirlpools higher end brands have the upgraded parts in them.
@@osyrass Danny B - did the bearing fit or did you have to machine it?
@@mindgrudge it did, but I had to drill out a bit just like in the video. I had bearings for front and back and had to drill both sides.
Dishwasher fills with water/drains but won’t clean. Started UA-cam research and found this gem. Thank god people take the time and energy to make videos sharing their finding. I have a diff model than you but i took it all apart. Motor had a hairball. Reassembled and it works great. Thanks again, you are a hell of a guy I don’t care what they say about you.
Thank you so much for the video. 3 year old appliance set from Whirlpool... Small piece of hard plastic preventing the impeller from spinning. I'm so happy right now. Almost as happy as when my kids were born. Very close.
Wohoo! Thank you soooooo much. My dishwasher is under warranty and they will replace the wash motor as soon as they can get the backordered part. Could be months until it gets here. I took a dowel, put it against the motor you hi lighted, tapped the dowel with a hammer and voila, motor has worked for 10 wash cycles and the motor is not voided by me pulling it out!
You saved Christmas in my house.
thanks for not playing any annoying music
I have a Kitchenaid dishwasher which cost twice as much as the whirlpool but has the same motor. I changed the whole assembly but I appreciate the video. I will attempt a repair to have a back up. Great Job
So glad I found your video before ordering a new motor. Thank you.
Self-repairing the motor: $5
Sticking it to the parts mafia: Priceless
This was a real lifesaver. I found the problem exactly as you described it. Cheapass 'bearing' wore out within 2 years allowing the motor field to contact and seize the armature. My solution was to install a $7.49 ball bearing. It took a bit of research for the small bearing and a cut up old credit card for a shim (probably any .030" hard piece of plastic will work) and a drilled out bushing over the armature shaft. Working perfect! Thanks......
Cant thank you enough for this video. Saved me $170 for the part alone. I was skeptical after removing the graphite spacer and seeing it was in much better condition than the one in the video. Went ahead and replaced with the bearing, using heat shrink to fill the gap. Its in the kitchen running again as I type this.
Thanks I didn’t do all the steps that you did. But I was able to take apart my pump and clean it out. Now it’s working again. Saved myself about $200 bucks on a new pump.
First of all, THANKS FOR THIS VIDEO! You saved me at least $350!!!! I live overseas for work, in a small country, dishwashers are rare and the cost of repairing and parts is literally double or 3x the cost in the USA. My bushings were just a little worn, but there were little pieces of plastic that had jammed up the impeller. I also cleaned out the magnet area while I was at it. When I called the a-holes at Whirlpool they wanted me to order the entire assembly, which with the weight and the customs taxes, would have been $350 to $400. I can't thank you enough! Awesome job man!
World Genius Prize to the guy who decided to install this motor horizontal. The magnet weighs on the bearings/bushings while turning: graphite or not, it's going to wear through. I have three aquarium pumps with the same kind of motor and they're vertical. The bushings are plastic/rubber and those pumps are immortal.
In my hoover dishwasher? Horizontal. It stops randomly, then starts again if you hit the machine or turn it off and on again. Yep, guess Im' going to thank you for this video :)
Just a thank you for showing the disassembly of the pump. I got here by searching for the Askoll M310 part number and with your video I was able to disassemble the motor side of the pump housing without removing any of the cinch clamps from the dishwasher. Found a plastic label from a dish caught in the impeller. Reassembled and we're back in business.
This was exactly my issue. I had been dealing with the whirlpool dishwasher not running for a year now... Been replacing parts here and there trying to get to work. Finally stumbled across this video, ordered the washers and put them in... Washer now working!!!
For anyone who is reading I used this same fix for Washe model# is WDT720PADM2 and pump part number is W11032770. Thanks for posting this video!
Hello Antonio, I have the exact same pump part # and I am having that issue. Can you please help me find out what exact bearing to buy, in order to replace the worn out one ? I am in Canada and it's my first time trying to fix these things, so I can't buy from McMaster-Carr like the OP suggested. Thanks in advance for your help and thanks for posting this :)
This is exactly what my dishwasher has been doing. It’s almost 2yrs old, but has been doing it for at least the last year. I assumed the kids were coming along behind me or I had only imagined that I had turned it on.... Already had to fix the control on it. Husband followed your video and ours is worn down really badly. Thank you for saving us $150!
My 2 and 1/2-year old Whirlpool stopped spraying, I replaced the water valve ($26.00) thinking it couldn't be the motor, but it was. So I proceeded to take out the motor . It wasn't even as loose as your's but I cleaned it up re-assembled it and that was it ...It's working strong now! ( It is the quietest dish washer I've ever owned ).....There has to be a cheaper source for that little motor.........but it's good for now. So great big THANKS MAN!
I made kind of a panic purchase and bought the whole assembly for $300 because the $100 pump wasn't available. It will be installed this weekend - then I'll investigate the old parts to see what caused the problem. Thanks for the video.
Great video - thanks! The bushing in my motor turned out to be ok, but the permanent magnet on the rotor was cracked, split down the middle. I glued it back together with epoxy and it's running like a champ!
any pics ?
@@mjacobm No, sorry. Also, the epoxy fix didn't last :-), I ended up replacing the dishwasher.
Thanks for the videos! You gave me the courage to not get a new dishwasher (was going to be approx $1k), and I just got the non-Whirlpool motor on EBay (approx $60)… my 20 year old son changed it out and now my dishwasher is working great!
Thanks for the Post. Our Kenmore stopped circulating. Took everything apart, found small debris wedged inalong the magnet and housing. cleaned everything, sanded it with 1200grit to smooth everything out again. Reasembled everything and BINGO, everything worked. Took about 5 hours, between checking all other parts. Again, Thanks for the post.
Thanks for the video. Six years later, I believe the same pump assembly is $50 on Amazon. It's probably not worth the effort to try to fix these anymore. But I do appreciate your efforts and your video.
"Appliances that live as long as a gerbil". Legit spit coffee. Got a lot of money. Still wanna try this.
I applaud your ingenuity to replace the bearings. I didn't see what you did to fix the bearings near the impellor, but the impellor just unscrews from the shaft. It is easiest to replace just the motor by twisting it off/on, similar to the drain pump motor.
I have been wanted to do this to my motor as well. This is the second motor I put in the unit. I even bought the warranty and the company could not find any one to work on it. The thing wasn’t even a year old. Thanks for sharing
You are a man after my heart. I have a machine shop and I will be following your advice and trying to repair my pump if it turns out it is the problem. I don't have a wiring diagram but I think you said the motor runs on 120 Volts, so I think I will hot wire it before taking it apart. I like you, am sick and tired of buying junk and paying many bucks for it. It seems like I have to repair everything I buy. We have a Kitchen Aid (about 3 years old) which like you say uses the same parts. I will save this page and when I get it done I will contact you.
Thanks guy Tony
I just finished doing your upgrade. I used a 5mm ID x 16mm OD bearing, the ID was perfect, but I had to ream out the OD slightly. Not too difficult. I was also tired and frustrated with the annual pump replacement. Thank you!
Thank you for creating this video! The pump on my WDT720PADM stopped working, I had whacked it with a screwdriver and it started up again, then I found your vid. Because of you, I was able to take apart the motor and found tons of scoring along one side of the chamber in which the impeller sits. The bushings weren't oval, so I sandpapered the scoring mostly smooth, cleaned everything out, reassembled it, and it came back to life. That lasted about a month, then it stopped working again. Pulled the pump apart, and saw some little black shavings inside the chamber. The top bushing had some slop to it, too -- far more slop than the new pump that I had purchased and was about to return. I guess the bushings were getting ground down and the shavings ended up inside the pump (maybe contributing to the scoring?). I ended up replacing the pump because we really needed the dishwasher working, but I'm still going to do your repair to the original pump as a backup for when the new one dies. The extra month of life we got just from cleaning out the pump was easily worth the time spent in tinkering with it.
I can't give you enough credit. I couldn't understand why something as simple as a circ pump could work intermittently. Fortunately, I saved my old parts from the last dishwasher and the pump was still good so I installed it, but plan on rebuilding the bad pump.
This same dishwasher pump motor is is in my Gold Series Whirlpool Dishwasher. The dishes would not get cleaned after the cycles. Found this vid on UA-cam. I decided to try this same repair on my dishwasher's circulation pump motor. What do I have to lose? The graphite bushing at the bottom of the pump motor housing was worn out (elongated) and the inside of the impeller shaft housing was scored same as indicated in the video. This elongated hole in the bottom bushing was creating uneven circular travel of the impeller shaft causing it to not spin when power is applied to the pump motor. The impeller shaft is operated using electro-magnetic power.
So I ordered a couple of plastic ball bearing racers with glass ball bearings from a bearing company in Canada. The shipping cost was more than the cost of the bearings. (typical). The order cost me around $32. I couldn't find a 21/32 inch twist drill bit in my town, so I had to settle for 5/8 drill bit which was a bit too tight of a hole for the ball bearing to seat properly. I ended up gluing a piece of 120 grit sandpaper around a 5/8 dia. wooden dowel and twisted that into the hole until the ball bearing housing fit. I messed up the hole drilling of the motor housing by drilling too deep to the point where the drill bit almost came out through the motor bottom. If you try this repair, set up a drill depth gauge on your drill bit for a more precise drilling depth. I did the drilling by hand as recommended in the video but did not check my drilling depth until almost coming through the motor housing bottom. (I was watching TV whilst hand drilling and lost my concentration). I had to use a shot of JB Weld two part plastic epoxy to fill the void and then I tamped in the old graphite bearing into the epoxy as a filler. I let the epoxy cure overnight and in the morning, re-assembled the pump motor and re-installed it into the dishwasher. I reconnected the dishwasher wiring, drain hose and hot water supply line and fired the beast up for a test run on the 1 hour cycle.
Lord have mercy, the damn thing works again! No leaks or anything.This repair really works! saved me over $250 bucks by not having to replace the pump motor. We'll see how long the repair lasts.
Thanks UA-cam, for archiving this info and a loud shoutout to the dude who posted this really great repair video. Like I always say, "knowledge is power".
You’d think with so many of the same issue, there would be a recall!!!
Anyways, this was great! Thank you so much for the video. Finally got my first perfect cycle in a year!!!
It’s a scam by manufacturers to rip off consumers by having a seemingly insignificant, difficult to access/replace, but essential part that reliably fails shortly after the warranty is expired. It’s called “planned obsolescence “. With improvements in materials and design technology vastly improved over several decades, the manufacturers could produce products with regularly increasing life-expectancy for similar cost. Instead they deliberately make products that last 1/3 as long to artificially increase demand so that you have to buy something 3 times as often increasing industry profits (and resource extraction, waste, energy consumption, consumer cost, pollution, time to purchase, deliver and install) by 3. It should be criminal, it meets the criteria for what we criminalize, which is willfully causing harm to another. Causing a person to be deprived of their property, inflicting loss, compelling unnecessary costs are harms. Designing a product to have a short life span when a product of superior function and longevity can be made for substantially similar cost IS a deprivation of property, it IS a harm on the individual as well as society collectively, and it is theft by fraud.
We as people do not deserve this, it’s time to do something about these crimes we suffer from, that victimize us. The worst criminals of all, are the ones that steal the most from us, and do it with a smile under a guise of respectability due to the prestige that’s been inflated for businessmen.
Fuck them. It’s a crime.
Love this. I kid you not, several years ago Shark sent me a COMPLETE new upright vacuum cleaner in a box when a tiny little easily replaceable plastic clip piece cracked on mine while it was still under warranty.
You are the man. My washer would always turn on and start pumping for awhile, then stop and just click. The clicking is actually the water diverter just doing it's job and it's not part of the issue. I ordered the $50 Amazon 2 day replacement pump, but I just ordered the ball bearings and will repair my old one for a spare. Can't thank you enough, keep up the good work.
Good job.., it's nice to watch a video from someone that actually thinks with commonsense in this disposable world we currently live in.
Viewed this repair almost three years ago. 3d printed the bearings. They lasted almost three years with no issues. Reprinted new bearings and the dishwasher is up and running again.
How did you do that.
I mean how did you manage to print it.
Is there a video?
I think he meant bushing.
Thanks for sharing. I just pulled the shaft and it had food in it. The spindle mount was fine. I cleaned it out and it started right up. You saved me $100 thank you!!
Thank you! I was hoping to see how to remove the pump but you had started after that point. I am likely to repaeat your rebuild ,after I remove the pump. Will review other videos to see if you provided it elsewhere. I am glad to see you had taken to rebuild the motor. Planned obsolence is the name of the game. You are very correct in your various rants. thank you!
I have mostly Whirlpool appliances (including a dishwasher that looks very similar to yours and has started having a problem with not circulating the water through the sprayers) and watching your videos (and others) just makes me angry! The most important thing to me when making a significant purchase like this is that the engineering is solid. Wish I could know these things before making the purchase.
My pump just needed cleaned out and this video was invaluable, dishwasher fixed with nothing more than I had at hand. Awesome!
FYI and I know you already know, I was pulling my hair out and ready to just buy a new DW until I saw your video. Didn't take it all apart, but I did give it a good shake, and it might only be a temporary fix, but the DW is now working
SIMPLY AMAZING, finxed my problem 100% by showing me how to take this apart. I cleaned and inspected parts and reassembled, works like new! ... THANKYOU SO MUCH!!!
Great video! Took my pump apart and yes, both bearings were oval and there was scoring to the inner bore of the pump. I removed the bearings and clocked them both so the oval bearings are 90° off for a short term fix. Long term, I’m designing replacements bearings to be 3D printed in ABS plastic. We’ll see how that works. Thanks again man, saved us $180.
Hi John, could you please update us on how your 3D printed bearings are doing after 7 months ? I am curious since I am going to use the same solution. Thanks :)
John, I'm also interested in the 3D printed bearings. How did you make out? Did you print some extras for sale?
I was just fixing this and got stuck trying to get that damn bushing out. Your lag bolt trick was the answer I came here for. Thank you!!
You are a lifesaver. Watched your video and found it was the exact problem with mine. Thank you. BTW, yes, all these new appliances are junk and usually all made out of the same parts bin. No difference between the brands. Unless you wanna spend triple what one should cost.
I did this on our old one … but take the newer apart each year and clean , no issues … appreciate the video!!
Thank you for posting this! My WP had the same failure after 2.5 years. I used J-B weld to fill in the gap and drilled out the centers, I'll see how long that holds up. Thanks for mentioning that tapping on the motor caused it start up, that helped me pinpoint that this was my problem.
That was key for me as well!
is the JB weld epoxy solution to fill the sloppy hole still holding up?
How is the JB doing?
JB Weld for the win!!!
@@nidusa1
Good job. I've seen many poorly designed weak point failures on many consumer products, too many to believe they're unintentional.
One comes to mind is a Ford motor that used a rubber belt for the internal oil pump drive. No one would check or replace a cheapo belt bc it cost hundreds of $ to get to it. When it fails you need a new motor.
Thank you for your video, it solved the problem with my dishwasher. the bearing was also worn out and the motor was working intermittently. Now, so far, it runs like new. it did save me a bundle. Thanks again.
Thank you for the video! I just replaced the same crap circulation pump on our kitchenaid (also made by whirlpool) after 3 and a half years.
I did buy the whole bottom plate with the switch-over motor since the price was actually less than just the pump (pretty ridiculous but whatever).
I took the non-working pump apart and same issue but a lot less wear on the bearings, they don't seem oval.
There is one section inside the barrel where the rotor lives that has some scuffing.
There is also some wear between the top of the rotor cylinder and the bottom of the top graphite bearing as it left some grooves in it.
It almost seems like the barrel is not perfectly round anymore.
Maybe it got deformed from heat.
In my case the dishwasher would circulate in the beginning and then stop somewhere early in the cycle.
I'm a bit surprised that the insides of the pump are exposed to the dirty water circulated through the dishwasher.
This has planned obsolescence written all over it..
Totally. If someone was designing a piece of equipment that they were going to be responsible for repairing, they never would have done it that way. Obviously the boss said to the designers, "Make the pump cheap for us to make, expensive for the customer to replace, and make it last roughly 2-3 years with normal use." I wish there was a way to hold them accountable for our landfills that are visible from space and that huge plastic garbage island in the ocean.
@odousa I had this exact problem just last week. The barrel was not perfectly round and it looked like the permanent magnets were trying to poke out of the plastic they were enclosed in. This was causing the scraping on the housing. I filed the barrel down a bit and it's now working. Not sure how that happens. Heat? Weakening plastic / epoxy that houses the magnets?
UA-cam needs to fix it's search results. The two video I needed most required far to much scrolling. You are a rock-star. Pretty sure this will fix mine as well. I see you have a 1 year update so I am going to look for that too.
Really appreciate for your all Smart & hard work. This helped me a lot in saving hundreds of dollars on replacing a pump.
I did use the plastic bearing you mentioned and it started working flawlessly. Even after a year you posted this video, it is still helping people like me. God bless you.
I have same problem in my sisters Hotpoint. Same bushing. Can be bought for $10 per set of two, but I replaced the pump and took it for repair. Going to fit full ceramic bearings from Ali. This should make this pump eternal :).
Thanks for the video, I wanted to mention once I pulled my recirculation motor apart the screen between the housing and impeller was completely clogged, I unclogged it and it started working perfect! (Just in case someone runs into that, its amazing how small the screen behind the impeller is, it didn't take much to clog it ).
Same problem here. Ours is 7 years old. Thanks for taking the time to document. Saved me a bunch of time. Debating next step. Not sure if I have the patience.
Same issue on our unit, fills and drains, but no startup to clean. I found water/moister inside the top of the electrical board under the black cap(green sticker) No conductivity. I need to replace mine.
I opened it up and found the bushing worn exactly the same way as yours, Whirlpooh!
Thank you u are a hero I had the same issue for my Ariston dishwasher, and just now I fixed it, wow 😂😂😂 ... but instead of plastic ball bearing I used rubber o-ring which was orignally there but was too big causing clogging the motor, I replace that with the correct size and it done the job very well ... thank you again for sharing this project
thank you sir. my whirlpool dishwasher was doing the same thing as you described. Pump motor is a litttle different but similar idea. This video saved me some $$$$$$. thank you again.
Thank you for posting this! Just ran into this issue and would have replaced the motor if I didn't find this. It was really nice that you put the part number for the bearing in the video, it made it really easy to go to McMaster-Carr and grab what I needed.
I used .17 ID 1/4 OD tubing. It ended up being a little thick once it was on the motor shaft, so I needed to shave it down a little.
Awesome video, this helped me a lot. My pump was completely clogged with hair so the motor couldn't spin. It looked like the bushing was still in okay shape though. Appreciate your video!
I never post comments on videos but I wanted to say thank you i used your video and links for the bearing and my dishwasher is now running like new! I hope yours is still working great also!
That's great to hear! I honestly didn't think anyone else would ever try this, but I'm so glad the video was worth it. Mine is still running great, so you should get at least a few months out of it. ;)
Thank you for both videos once again. You showed that these unjustifiably expensive parts Whirlpool wants us to buy are very well repairable with the right approach. Upon watching both Videos I bought ball bearings, 1/4" plastic tube and hose clamps and was waiting for them to come to take my Kitchenaid dishwasher apart. I should have disassembled it first to check the pump. :-) When I received the parts and took it apart I realised that nothing was wrong with the inserts in the circulation pump but metal insert in the circulation pump impeller rusted out completely. Impeller was just sitting loose in the circulation pump casing. So I ended up drilling remaining insert piece out from impeller, getting 18-8 stainless steel 10-32 thread size insert for plastic (McMaster-Carr # 92398A115) and gluing it into the impeller with LOCTITE EA9017 Epoxy. That was a perfect fit. Thread depth for the insert was a perfect match to the thread length on the pump shaft. It's working again and can hopefully last for a while before I need to fix it again.
Nice work! I've never heard of that rusting out, but it makes sense that the manufacturer would pay 10 cents for a chromed steel rod instead of 20 cents for a stainless one. Once the chrome is compromised, oxidation will always win. Greedy bastards.
You're one of those guys that makes me jealous. I can see what you're doing (AND YOU DID AN AWESOME JOB AT SHOWING HOW TO DO IT) but I don't have the "know how' to go after it, in my opinion. Will order the replacement and then try to fix the old one. Thanks for the video.
I wish you would point out the different components of the dishwasher. There was a nice view of everything when you had it upside down. Thanks for the video.
My washer doesnt always run either, for seemingly the same issue as yours. I found the likelihood based off it’s symptoms is the pump that runs the water through the sprayers. The cost difference for that motor assembly vs the entire “sump pump assembly” (the whole round bottom part with all the sensors and pump motor) was $20, so I just bought the whole assembly. Hoping the $157 part fixes this washer. I called some appliance repair places and they all want $125 just to come out and diagnose. Cost doesnt include repair or parts. Last time I had a guy come out to look at our old dryer, they said it needed a new board, which was $250. That dryer brand new 8 years prior was $399. Insane to put $250 into it. I just bought another cheap dryer for about $400 (this was years back before “supply chain issues”).
Long story short, i 100% agree with your statements about manufacturers literally designing this crap to break and need almost entire replacement. It’s a joke.
Brilliant job man. You save me so much aggravation and save my marriage! We have a kitchen aid with this symptom for the past year. Luckily we have 2x dishwashers so the other one is still working 100%. Thanks so much for taking the time to do this. You should add kitchen aid to your title or keywords so we can find it easier. Thanks buddy!
Thanks for the video you did a great job explaining everything.... I took mine apart and didn't see any junk or Muck in the impellor and my bearing looked great no play (I know all about this type of pump I have fixed many plug and play hottubs) so I was ready to buy a new pump and on closer inspection the little mesh inside the pump was clogged ..we have pretty hard city water so it was calcium not food ..took a while to soak the mesh but I finaly got it free flowing ..pretty sure it will happen again but next time I will prob just go for the new pump....check the mesh folks I fixed mine for about 2 hours worth of pain in the ass time .... and Yes they are junk this was a very high end unit part of a package the fridge is junk I have fixed it twice and all the paint is comming of the stove top 4 yrs old
THANK YOU! After struggling with the same EXACT problem over the last few months (it runs 7 or 8 times before this happens - does cycle, but soap is on bottom at end of wash), so will inspect the pump. Just narrowing down the problem to this is a huge help. I will inspect the motor, but I am not as handy so may end out getting another motor unless I can get the actual part.
Great vid, you are true mechanic. My Dad and I would use lathe to make parts to fix things. Lost art today
I have exact same situation. Found pump on amazon for 50 w next day. Dishwasher runs every day here and new machine is a grand, so.... but I like your comparison. Hate spending money on dishwashers, wish I had a 53 Chevy to spend money on.
Repairman says $540 to repair. I paid $450 for the dishwasher less than 2 years ago ( BLEEP ) anywho I will look into this repair thank you so much
Have to say this is a very good video well worth the time to watch!
Well, I have a kenmore dishwasher, I’ve had at least 20 years still pretty modern with all the bell and whistles. If finally when up about a year or so ago just replaced the pump $150.00 about a month ago. I couldn’t stand it any longer not having my DW! I’m really surprised it lasted this long since I’ve read the comments and everyone else seems to have or had trouble with in a few years of purchase. My sisters went up about the same time as well “Maytag”. We could still use it but not load the top rack! Enough is enough! I wish I would of seen this video back then but didn’t thing about rebuilding the pump! I did save my pump and as have it her is the same model pump! So I’m going to give it a shot. At least one of can make out then I can rebuild hers too! I love UA-cam TG. It’s made my life so much easier Repairing, fixing and installing all kinds of things. Just put in a tankless water heater myself and did all the electrical myself, replaced a fuel pump in my vehicle, back splash in my kitchen and the plumbing, oh the list goes on!
Awesome video and thanks to the comment that explained that the impeller is screwed on. If you've taken your pump apart and you can see that the bottom bushing is somewhat worn off center then you will probably find that the top bushing between the magnet and the impeller is worn even more. When it's inside the dishwasher the motor shaft is horizontal and I think you might find that the wear happens on the bottom of the inside of the bushing. The wear on the magnet will probably be uniform all the way around the circumference, as will the wear on the steel shaft. If you stick your finger down inside the gray plastic cylinder that the magnet rides in, you will probably find that it is wearing on only one side. I think that when the motor stops it is pulled towards that side by gravity, and when the crud in the swirling water around the magnet comes to rest it then also drops to that side adding friction. Both bushings are held in place by a little o-ring. If you pop the bushings out of their o-rings and rotate them something less than 90°, you may be able to get your motor to run a little while longer. The shaft on my motor was worn worse than the bushings it was riding in so new bushings or putting in bearings is not going to be a solution. It's fairly easy to get the impeller off and the shaft out of both bushings but I do not think it is possible to do anything to repair the damage to the shaft. I find an entire replacement pump is about 60 bucks, and rotating the bushings to make it run a little while longer is probably only going to allow us to wash dishes until the pump arrives. I am very tempted to order some food grade grease and fill that cavity around the magnet but it might create so much drag that the motor doesn't work. You will notice for tiny holes that are designed to let the water in and I'm imagining that the water inside cavity that holds the turning shaft provides some cooling. Unfortunately as the video clearly shows as does my experience with my one pump confirms, that water brings in a lot of crud from the dishwasher and it probably accelerates the wear on the bushings. If the bushings were a little harder they would just eat the shaft up faster. In my motor, the top bushing between the motor and the impeller is actually less worn than the spot on the shaft where it rides. That spot on the shaft worn so badly that there's just no point in trying a repair. The whole dishwasher is about 5 years old. The most common power steering pump on larger Ford and GM vehicles wears out where the shaft pass through a bushing and much the same way. That pump is a cast iron housing with all metal parts, lasts about 5 years and only cost 50 bucks for a remanufactured pump after a $25 core charge. of course the pump is made to be remanufactured and all the cores go down to Mexico get rebuilt and show up in your local auto parts store. That one pump appears on lots of Ford and GM and some John Deere equipment. Much larger heavier pump costs less than this little Chinese made plastic gizmo.
Yep. My bushing are worn too. Just a junky dishwasher. Poorly designed pump. Maybe make a brass bushing but probably too much trouble. Off to the junk heap. Thanks for you video.
Cool video. It shows that the motor twists off the L-shape rubber hose, and I used that info when I replaced mine.
Been dealing with the same thing on our Whirlpool. It's been going on about a year. Dishwasher is only 3 years old. Great product put out by Whirlpool.
2:52 im having my lunch while watching this to figure out what i should do with my kitchenaid dishwasher that was quoted as 500+ to fix its water pump this morning, but I didn’t foresee this scene… no appetite now😂😂😂 but, really awesome tutorial and I’m still gonna watch it…😊
I just found 2 soap pods in the bottom of our dishwasher. It does the same as yours, I can hear something running but it never sprays water and the jets never spin. It drains and steams up my glasses when I open the door. Thanks for posting this.
I took as much of the inside of the dishwasher i could apart, without tools, and cleaned the hell out of everything then added drano. Finally worked!! I hope this helps someone
I did not change out the bushing for a bearing, but this did help me get the circulator working again. Now I know what to keep an eye out for. Thanks for the vid!
did you put a new bushing on?
I ended up replacing the entire pump assembly for the same price as that stupid pump. I plan to rebuild the motors on the assembly for backup parts when the new parts ultimately fail. Thanks for the breakdown.
I love that you punched it, and it's started working!!
I replace two of those pumps already, so don’t feel bad! So my dishwasher is a Kenmore company that’s been on a business and it took me a while to figure out that it was a whirlpool really, I hate that!
Great video bud im in the middle of tearing in mine now i will try to get back on here. Usually i f up things so bad ill have to buy a new one.
Thank you so much for this awesome video! Gave me the confidence to rip apart my pump motor and found the culprit!
Carrie, my wife loves to tell me, it's not working now, you're not going to break it!
@@johnrankie4004 That's pretty much how I see it! If I can't fix it, I was going to have to replace it anyway so what do I have to lose! I've now repaired my fridge 3 times, a lawnmower, the dishwasher, a carpet shampooer, and the vacuum!
About to work on my pump!! GREAT JOB!!
Your video helped one guy in Romania , thanks for your effort
Thanks for sharing your experience, i share your frustration on this particular issue and whirpool in general, i am having the same issue with my dishwasher and the weird thing is handyman in my area are charging $220-240 for replacing the motor which would be 350-400 so first get over charged for the spare part and then labor. I will surely try fixing the motor once with your guide and some other guides on how to remove the motor. Overall the market is priced to force the consumer to get a new dishwasher or high mark ups on spares, consumer looses anyway.
Thanks for sharing your experience and all the great tips. We also have a kitchen full of shitty KA appliances. None of them all work at any given point in time. We even have a KA range hood which is super finicky. I finally threw out the fridge after fixing it a few times. Just total garbage!
Thanks for the vid. You saved me a service call. I have the exact same pump in my whirlpool, but my issue was different. I found the impeller almost entirely unscrewed off the armature. I think it might have been binding against the housing. Screwed it back on tight and fix the problem. I noticed the bushings were made of metal and showed no signs of ware. The washer was purchased in mid 16. So maybe the manufacture used this better bushing because of the issues. Thanks again, you got me pointed the right direction and got it running again.
What agreat work you've done
Please,what is your Whirlpool dishwasher model specifically 😄 Many thanks
What agreat work you've done
Please, what is your Whirlpool dishwasher model number specifically 😄??
I'm curious what type of metal you thought they were? Mine definitely has graphite bearings like the video. I think ceramic bearings might work or even brass.
I’ve got a junky ass whirlpool too. Wdt720padm2 and I had to reach under the machine and whack it with a hammer handle to get it to start. Thanks for you video. Even if I fix this pump there will be another worthless mechanism to fail.
The old bushing looks like Delrin or some other polymer like nylon or nylok . I thought you were going to use your lathe and machine another Delrin bushing . Cool that you found a bearing race the right size .
All the best to you and your loved ones . Thanks for your video Mark .
LOL same scenerio here at my house I bought all new Whirlpool appliances prepping for retirement. Fridge, 4 yr mark had to replace control board, Whirlpool dishwasher same model as yours pump dead, Electric Range the oven thermostat 30 degrees off, takes 30 minutes to get a 2 quart pot of water to boil on the largest burner. Top load washer so bad we junked it after 2nd bearing and seal failure. They make pure crap.
Just followed this step by step and have a working dishwasher again. Thanks for the great video!
I found a brass water fitting that had the perfect size hole for the shaft. Shaped it by hand to be the exact size as the og bushing pressed right in with the og o-ring. Washer is spraying some serious water now!
Same issues here! Whirlpool dishwasher is crap, Whirlpool fridge is crap (broken wire harness on door), microwave is crap (constant clicking sound). I just replaced the sump & motor assembly, pulled the old one apart and same issue as you! Dishwasher started giving us problems at 4 years old. I will never buy another whirlpool appliance.
Thanks for posting this video. We had the same exact issue on our whirlpool..and it looked same when we opened the wash motor. We just cleaned it and put It back. The dishwasher is working well now..
I discovered this video after already buying and installing a new circulation pump. I decided to take the old pump apart, as per your excellent video, with the thought of replacing the bushing and keeping it as a spare. My pump has none of the scoring you showed and the bushing looks round and true. It is not ovalled out like yours was. Do you have any thoughts on why the pump may have stopped working. Do you think it is worth trying to fix and keep as a spare?
I don’t know how comfortable you are around electricity, but you could bench test it. Give it 110v from the wall and see if it moves. If not, try giving it a spin by hand and see if that gets it moving. If not, the motor could be fried. You could also check the resistance across the motor windings. You should read some small impedance. If you get zero or infinity, it’s shot.
Man thank you for making this video. I was shocked to have found it. Thank u for taking the time to make it.
Now my main pump out in my Whirlpool. Its not even 3 years old. It was not the cheapest unit nor the most expensive in the middle of the road unit for a Whirlpool. I have replaced so far in its life; the drain pump, Timer board (PCB), fill inlet, top rack spray unit, third row rack, all plastic rack retainers, and heater element. I have a family of 7 including the Wife and I. I do a load a dishes on average a day might go to two on weekends/holidays/big meals. I have a Maytag over-the-stove microwave (Maytag Whirlpool owned) - Top of their line. One year the door switches are out. This is not my only Microwave. Honestly I replaced the original Whirlpool Dishwasher that was in my place as it was original and the wife wanted new...still worked so I sent it over to my rental. That unit is close to 20 years old and the previous owners had 4 kids...the old unit still runs fine with 2 kids and a couple...It tells you something...
I feel like I might try it. I just replaced the flow switch on mine but that is not the problem. I was just hoping for a cheaper repair. I think I'll get my dishes washed in the sink and maybe get the motor out once my kitchen is a little tidier.
Thank you! I didn't take the circulation motor off just "PUNCHED" it will a mallet a few times and VIOLA! It's spraying again during the clean cycle.
I have a Kenmore 665.13223N411 which is apparently a Whirlpool chassis. The panel on yours looks different, but the underside mechanics look identical to my own, so far as I can tell - definitely the same circulator pump assembly.
When the washer was just over 2 years old, it started having problems where it seemed to be stuck in the middle of the cycle. Sometimes, it would seem to keep running and running and counting down, but never advance in the cycle. Other times, it would get to about 210 minutes and then it would stop and you could hear a relay click every few seconds - it would basically do this until the timer ran down to about 45 minutes, at which point it would drain and refill and then complete the cycle. You could typically remedy this by opening and closing the door and then pushing start to complete the cycle.
I noticed at these times that if the washer was stuck, the heating element seemed to be on, and if you opened the washer up you would actually find that it had evaporated off nearly all of the water inside.
The problem was very intermittent. The washer might run correctly for days, weeks, or even months, and then suddenly have the problem again. Interestingly, I always found that when this would happen, my water hardness was very high and upon investigation I had found that my softener was not working (that's a whole other issue). However, it does seem like there is some correlation to very hard water and tripping error codes in the washer.
I found reset codes online, and pushed the 3 button sequence 3 times, then it shows you the codes (in my case F8 E2) and then runs a diag cycle. At the completion of the cycle, if no problem is found, it clears the codes and then the dishwasher functions normally for a while.
Around this same time, I began hearing a rattling noise when the washer wash in wash mode. I always found it odd, but thought perhaps something was stuck in a filter or something that I couldn't get out. Washer continued to function normally so I never thought much of it.
About 2 years on and maybe 10 resets later, the washer will no longer complete a cycle properly no matter how many times you open and close the door. Running the diag sequence always starts with an F8 E2 code and ends with an F8 E2 code. I now know this also means that the heating element gets disabled.
I sat down the other night and babysat the washer. Ever 10 mins or so I tested water temp, and found the temp consistently declining (heater not working). Ran a diag cycle and it started and ended with F8 E2.
I took the washer out of the counter and flipped it on its side with some towels. F8 E2 indicates drain pump, but when I inspected it... its not clogged, doesn't appear to have a problem, impeller shaft feels solid and motor feels good and quote strong. Inspected for and didn't find any wiring or connector issues.
I removed the drain motor assembly from the pump housing by release the rubber grommet with a screwdriver and twisting it off. It was then that it was apparent that there was a problem as the impeller on shaft was extremely loose. I removed the 4 screws from the top of the pump and found, just like you, that the bearings on both sides of the impeller shaft were severely and oblongly worn. Also, there is tons of scoring on the inside of the housing where the assembly has been hitting the inside of the motor. Bingo, we found our problem.
It is sad that there are no rebuild or bearing replacement kits for this model as it seems, with the screws involved, that even the designer of this pump intended the bearings to be replaceable.
I have been toying with the idea of using some JB Weld to fill in the bearings and then drilling them out to the appropriate size and replacing with a generous amount of food safe silicon lube. Not sure if it will last a lifetime but can probably get through at least a year or so.
I like your idea of using those plastic/steel bearings... same type they use on pool cleaner robots. My only reservation would be that they typically only last a couple years at pool cleaner RPMs so I don't think they will last too long in a dishwasher. At any rate, my JB Weld fix probably won't last, either.
Its too bad we can't just source the replacement graphite bearing for this, hopefully with some decent quality control so they will not need changing again. It seems to me that graphite bearings probably should have been a lifetime part - seems there is some quality issue in the casting of these bearings IMHO.
I guess I would hope that Kenmore/Whirlpool would issue some kind of recall but especially with Sears going under I think that is wishful thinking.
BTW: If it has not happened yet, the upper rack guides in the chases snap off on these. They are made of plastic. There is a 3rd party that actually makes a stainless steel replacement for this part that does the job and will probably last the life of the unit. The only downside is that its design does cause a loss of a couple of cups' space on the top rack but I am OK with that.
I agree with you that this model is problematic. Its very picky about detergents, water temp, and rinse agent. If you're not using high quality stuff the wash quality is poor. It has never dried anything well, and I don't bother anymore.
The best combo I have found is Cascade Complete + Real Jet Dry although the Finish pods might be a close second. I currently use Members Mark pods and Great Value Rinse Agent and when the washer works... it works okay, but doesn't really match the Cascade.
Its kinda sad that these few poor design decision mess up an otherwise decent washer. When it is working, with decent chemicals, it actually does a pretty good job cleaning and its quiet... was never too great at drying, though.