hey bill, if you get you multi meter and put it to resistance testing the measure the resistance of the temp sender of both the exhaust and intake of the heater they should read the same if i am not mistaken of one of them is reading a vastly different measurement that more than likely the reason why your heater is not working my guess is that the hot side is the sencor that has failed as generally speaking thermal couplings (temperature probes ) don't like to be at high temps as it causes the bod between the 2 different metals that make up a temp probe to brake and make a pore connection leading to hi resistance which = a hotter temp measurement which is now out of spec and it can see this as it is powered on. casueing the no start.
+ I think, with these heaters, no matter how hard you try they inhale their sud and other shop debris causing clogs in their fuel supply; you forgot to reconnect b4 the last try.
I would like to get ahold of ya about the heater I have had many of them and different issues with each.. There is a separate circuit board other than the controller that if you cross wired the wire leads backwards and the fuse did not trip right away you may have fried the motherboard on the diesel heater... I have a few of them in a box and extra parts I'll try and get onto Rust or if you have Discord, I could help walk you through diagnosis
You forgot to put your air filter on your big saw
uh oh bill forgot the filter lol woops lol
OH I DID!!!!! Thank you!!
@@billstmaxx yeah lol welcome bill ah poor heater for corn flakes not 1 thing it end up 100 lol 😂
hey bill, if you get you multi meter and put it to resistance testing the measure the resistance of the temp sender of both the exhaust and intake of the heater they should read the same if i am not mistaken of one of them is reading a vastly different measurement that more than likely the reason why your heater is not working my guess is that the hot side is the sencor that has failed as generally speaking thermal couplings (temperature probes ) don't like to be at high temps as it causes the bod between the 2 different metals that make up a temp probe to brake and make a pore connection leading to hi resistance which = a hotter temp measurement which is now out of spec and it can see this as it is powered on. casueing the no start.
just a word of warning i am half past drunk when typing this so sorry for the poor spelling :(
good day bill too bad about your heater also l think you forgot to replace the airfilter on the big saw
I do believe you forgot the air filter for the big 660 saw. It was sitting next to the orange cover in the back of the shelf
That should be a T-25 torx, Bill.
+ I think, with these heaters, no matter how hard you try they inhale their sud and other shop debris causing clogs in their fuel supply; you forgot to reconnect b4 the last try.
I would like to get ahold of ya about the heater I have had many of them and different issues with each.. There is a separate circuit board other than the controller that if you cross wired the wire leads backwards and the fuse did not trip right away you may have fried the motherboard on the diesel heater... I have a few of them in a box and extra parts I'll try and get onto Rust or if you have Discord, I could help walk you through diagnosis
I think the error code you have is because of the reverse polarity. You might need to try searching diesel heater code reset
you forgot to put the air filter back on your big saw fyi
put a big bore kit and port and polish it and put a small turbo on it have a great day
here is a link for the kit hope this helps
yeah amonzon sures great carrying stihl stuff cheaper then a dealer and nice thing amonzon allways to the rescue
did you get the link i sent you for the rebuild kit
You don't have a camera to look down inside? My son bought me one 2 years ago and used it for a few things.
I think you fried her bud when you reversed polarity!!!
Thanks.. I go home :)