Speaking of clones. Original V6 last time I checked was $70-$100, which is beyond ridiculous for what it is. If they set a fair price they could get much more business, but for me, throwing a $100 for each hotend is a thinkless waste of money. For example "original" heatsink costs around $20, Chinese is $2 and they are absolutely identical. You don't need original for that, at all and overpay so much. the only parts that actually need to be of high quality is nozzles and the heatbreak, but again, they can be purchased elsewhere for a fair price.
And how many hotends have the Chinese actually designed? As opposed to waiting for e3d to work out the engineering and then copy it? End result? e3d go out of business. No more innovation. Also you seem to have misspelled 'are absolutely identical' when you clearly meant 'look pretty much the same to my untutored eye' :-) do you know the grade of Al used in the knockoff parts? or the stainless in their equally cheap heatbreaks? what exactly is the finish on the inside of that cheap heatbreak? How accurate was the lathe, how sharp the tool... or the operator for that matter? I would have though that 90% of why anyone was into 3d printing would be about innovation, and innovation costs, and innovation on the bleeding edge costs even more! Why was my BMW more expensive than a trabant? both cars, both German.... go figure.
Probably it's true, you will not get the exact quality but OP is right, 70€ for a metal tube is just ridiculous and imho the creators developed a good product and now are just riding the money wave.
@@naughtyhorses My friend's Triangle Labs V6 "clone" has worked just as well as my genuine V6 directly from E3D. The only way I can see e3d improving their design further would be to make it more compact and find a better design for the transition zone.
5:12 I remember the first time I bottomed out my z drive. Really gives a guy confidence! Way to add a little humor to your videos. Good job! learned a lot from listening to you. Keep them coming. (Couldn't resist one last pun)
maybe it wasn't able to srew-on the radiator part to the necessary distance? Not sure. I agree, Jared, if you trying to complaint, you ought to tell it in details and not showing like "meh... you must know the difference, right?" :)
Can't play this video on my tablet. Keeps stating, "click to retry". Just viewed a couple of your recent videos on the same tablet. I can still go back and view those. Thanks again for all you do. You are the most knowledgeable source I have found on 3D printing.
Haven’t looked back since fitting a Revo Rapid V6 hotend to my Anycubic i3. It has direct drive and handles LW-PLA single wall prints without jamming. It’s also a tidy looking setup. Worth every cent for the fully loaded kit and the supplier printed a mounting to suit which saved me the hassle.
Good info Tom. Loads of useful information packed into another great vid. Though: remember, you don't have to sit on the fence anymore. It'd be great to get your opinion on what is 'best', or at least your preference. A build-log/guide with the reasons you chose each component would be ace! I recently converted a cheap CTC printer from their generic hot end to an E3d by using the smooth chimera style heat breaks, drilling the heat bar and using the CTC thermo-couple. At first the all-metal jammed all the time until I used thermal compound between all the components, and linishing the mating surfaces to get better contact. That solved all issues and now I can print all sorts of different temp materials. Your video doesn't mention the importance of a very sharp thermal gradient at the transition zone for preventing jams... Am I correct? Jai
Great video :D Love the intro LOL It should also be noted that if you are a heavy printer ( like me ) with a PTFE based hotend, you will be changing the PTFE liner eventually, (seems like i end up having to change them every couple thousand hours or so)
Taken into consideration that this is 4 years old as of this writing and my mechanical/engineering knowledge of 3d printer hot ends is rather limited, but is there a reason no one uses a graphite liner instead of Teflon? Being exceptionally slippery and nearly heat proof, the only downside I can think of is its relatively brittle nature. I'm sure someone could figure out how to drill out an inserted rod though.
I have to disagree with the Chinese Hotends. My first 3d printer, which is a delta, consists of almost all Chinese cheap parts. (Only the 1515 alum frame and the heated bed was from local suppliers). Assembly went fine and it prints very well. The Chinese E3D-v6 i got was like almost 4 times cheaper than the one I would have to pay If I buy it from the local 3d Printer shop. (Excluding tax)
+Calxx Try non-Chinese parts, and see if you still think yours "prints very well." Even if they are cheaper, I'd rather pay full price and send money to E3D for research than to some clowns in China who just make knockoffs and contribute nothing to the community.
+Brandon Fesser Interestingly the prints are very much on par with the ones printed by a friend, who purchased the full kit (the whole printer) from local 3D printer supplier. The main reason I decided to bet on Chinese parts is the price. So, for people without deep pockets, the Chinese Hotends can be a really cheap and useful start. You can safely experiment with it without fearing you'll break something expensive.
Brandon Fesser surely Chinese firms do bring something to the community? Generic knock offs with similar performance characteristics as the real thing. Yes QA is questionable but they still bring something to the community and enable many who cannot afford to own a 3D printer built using high priced parts designed in the US or UK. Embiggening the community as a whole and bringing folk into the hobby, and that's the biggest contribution. They help create the 3D printing community.
Brandon Fesser I've seen creality ender-2 3dbenchies that are real good quality.. I've printed several myself. My ender-2 makes impressive 3dbenchies that are only 17mm tall. I'm only a beginner who pick random settings in cura.
Just like to confirm for your viewers, the aliexpress E3D is flawed, constant jams with PETG, a jam at the 2 hour mark with PLA, every time!. Changing temp and retraction made no diff. Required full disassembly for unjamming - nice. I pulled it apart, there is a manufacturing void wider than 2mm above the transition zone that prevents you even pulling out jammed filament, the all-metal height is way above the transition zone causing retraction to stick to the metal (I guess). An M4 to M5 metal pipe, so you can't easily modify the setup. I drilled the heck out of the heatsink (M5) and heat pressed some rounded M4 nuts. Screwed in the usual M4 heat pipe (not sure of its technical name?) with metal the end towards heat block and teflon end inside the heatsink. It now works like a dream with PLA and PETG. Doing the PLA at 150 speed, PETG at 100 - still tuning for higher :-)
To anyone who wants to get into 3d printing, I would suggest sticking with PLA at first. The J-head hot-ends (the original ones from hot-ends.com) are probably the best option for printing PLA reliably. Disclaimer : I am not affiliated to them in any way.
+Thomas Sanladerer could you please go into more detail? It's so fast. The parts ll look the same. I can't tell one part from another. What is wrong with the part?Exactly what is wrong with it? Could you take them apart and slowly exlain what should happen. I enjoy your videos but I didn't learn anything from his one. This is this and this is that and....whoosh! I think that you assume that we know all about these things. I need you to explain it as though I know nothing. Because I know nothing :-)
+Thomas Sanladerer "didn't fit in the heatsink all the way" - you mean it don't fit in length or diameter? Because I see both has the same length, only left one has grinded thread at end.
yes, i just spent a day making a $12 E3D V6 clone work, luckily i have a small metal lathe, so modifications were not hard, but anyone without a minimal metal working shop/knowledge would have been shit out of luck. Clone works as good as the original after i got done with it. was advertised as "all metal" but it came with a PTFE liner, i tossed that barrel, grabbed a M6 stainless bolt from the hardware store (actually grabbed like 15 of them, for extras) and machined my own barrel. hardest part was finding a 2mm drill bit in the US. had to settle for a pack of 3/32 bits, which is a hair over 2mm, but it got the job done, and the hot end works like a champ. now i need to go order 4-5 more of those hot ends to stock up on spares for the inevitable clogzilla that is sure to happen at some point.
If you were to get the heat sink part and shine a flashlight down the heatbreak side, you would see that the threads don't go all the way in to the bottom, so the side with the non-"ground threads" would not bottom out. leaving a large gap where the filament can bulge and cause an almost certain jam within 2-3 minutes of starting a print. Been there, done that. figured out the cause. Learn from my mistake if you ever want to modify an existing hotend.
I purchased an e3D clone of a v6 hot end. I didn't pay a lot for it, and it worked just fine at first. It got a bit unpredictable at times. I had an issue where I would have to pull the filament each time before a print, and chop semi melted end off to get it to print. I ended up buying an original e3d heat break that was all metal and I haven't had the issue since. The funny part is the price I paid for the clone and the heat break, for a few more dollars I could have got an original one.... But it prints like a champ now.
I bought a E3D V6 Clone, it was around 7 Bucks with all the exteriour parts as fan hater and thermistor and PTFE tubing and fittings, disassembled it and didn't find any downsides, will buy a real one too to support the company but in the moment I have to keep this hobby on a budget
Hi Tom, do you have any experience with the nozzle used in the Geeetech Giantarm D200 print. For some reason i have to print PLA at 230gr to get a good result and abs 250gr but at a slow speed.
I have a dream of building a DEDICATED polycarbonate printer. (Enclosed, Insulated Hypercube) It would have to have an all-metal hotend. But even the bowden tube and locking mechanisms would have to be heat resistant.
Hi Tom, thanks for your great efforts in making things sound simpler and easy to understand. Could you please review the diamond multicolor hot end as well please?
I dont see the issues people get with small nozzles. I use a knockoff e3d v6 lite, with knockoff 0.2mm nozzle. The clone has worked great for like 8 months, outlived two of my printers. All I did was replace the thermistor and heater cartridge. $1 0.2mm and $1 0.8mm nozzle all work great. Ive done 0.5mm and 0.06mm layer heights, fun stuff.
I've never had a problem with a $12 e3D v6 lite clone. 6 months in and the only thing i've had to replace is the heater cartridge, because I twisted the hot end during a print and the wires shorted. Not so much as a jam has happened. The only thing I don't like is that it's a different size, so no already made designs really fit it, so i'm on my own trying to figure out how to active cool it
Working on a RepRap all-metal conversion experiment. I got a stainless steel all-metal heat-break, and can set the proper "transition zone" gap etc... But, my question is really, if PTFE's limit is around, lets say, 240*C, what about the small PTFE insulation around the thermistor wires on typical RepRap/i3 heat blocks? How do the typical all-metal heat blocks mount their thermistors? I found some heat blocks that utilize a brass M3 threaded 100k thermistor, but even they still utilize some form of PTFE wire insulation. Are the M3 threaded thermistors a solution to the PTFE max temperature issue?
Thank you for the rapid response! I just found a 3mm cartridge style glass fiber sleeved thermistor on Aliexpress for $3.33, rated to 300*C, (although it says the fiberglass sleeved wire is rated to 270*C). I will keep researching, I am sure there are some solutions out there somewhere.
Nice video. I have a Lulzbot Taz3. The hotend just stopped working. Any idea where I can find a replacement for that? It looks like Lulzbot has gone out of business. I'm assuming it's the hot end that is the problem, the bed still heats up, I put a heat gun on the nozzle and the temperature goes up too. Not sure what else to check to confirm the problem.
If large scale, the e3d supervolcano or a filament extruder - that turns pellets into filament. If small scale... there's too many options to suggest one. Depends what you're printing material is and exactly what scale you're working on.
Tom, I have a custom 3d printer running Marlin on the Azteeg X3 Pro with Arduino IDE 1.6.12. I am using Repetier and having problems setting up my Geeetech Mk8 dual extruder. Hot end 1 works fine and reads accurate temperatures with the thermistor connected to TEMP_SENSOR_0. The thermistor for hot end 2 is connected to TEMP_SENSOR_1 and also reads accurate temperatures. I have run PID autotune and changed Kp, Ki, Kd accordingly. If I turn on hot end 1, it heats up fine. When I try to heat hot end 2, it does not heat at all and eventually times out with a heating failed error loop. When printing, with hot end 1, everything works fine until around the second layer, hot end 2 randomly starts to heat up and eventually stops the print because it reaches maxtemp. I was wondering if you could shed some light on what may be going on here, and possibly recommend a fix. Also, I am not sure this is the appropriate place for such a specific question. Maybe you could direct me to a better place to ask things like this? Thanks a lot!
Problem solved! After taking a closer look at the pin assignments, I realized hot end 2 (on pin 9) was defined as a fan, which explains why it would come on after the first layer.
Oh boy. I just got my first 3.50 euro hotend and the spare is on it's way. Now I am worried :-) But hey. 3.5 with shipping and a fan on it. It realy looks solid enough.When thing go wrong I usually learn the most.
Hi Tom, I have also a E3D V6 that at the beginning nevertheless still stalled (with all/massive metal heat break) I think there was a burr in the heatbreak. I now have two printers that were I experimenter wih. I still bought a few hotends from Ebay one of them it still does well;-) (there's Teflon in in this one!) and still The most trouble I have with the all/massive metal heat break! small areas no problem but print large surfaces still the printer jams I still have to do some experimenting with cooling perhaps, what I'm going to do! 3D printing, I think it still is quite difficult to do!!! very happy to say that I sometimes(now and then) succeed! ;-) good luck with making videos Friendly greetings from the Netherlands Rob.
I have seen two suggestions v 1. Filament retract down to 1mm, so sticky melted plastic is not pulled up into the heat break. 2. Slow reprime speed 20mm/sec
good info for the starters I bought a cheap all metal hotend in the beginning and tried to print pla with it I still can't get it to work pla. I haven't tried abs yet though
There was no bare surface on the top, and the transition zone was threaded stainless steel, which means that more heta will be transferred to the heat sink
What kind of extruder cog would you recommend for a flexible filament? I plan on sticking to the same diameter, but am unsure of the curvature needed to grip the flexible filament.
Considering the positive feedback on clone hotends, they can't all be that bad. Sure, there's always a risk you'll get a bad one, but just buy a couple and you'll probably be fine. I'm all for supporting genuine, but I also think that the brand name parts are way too expensive for budget printers. I for one would've probably never started with Arduinos if it wasn't for the cheap knockoffs. Now it's just a matter of time before I send some money their way. Everyone wins. This is why I think you shouldn't dismiss non-genuine parts like you did.
+Riyaz Mohammed Lubricant, for the filament? In the past when I had a bowden setup I tried sunflower oil when I had trouble with the friction (due to a very long bowden tubing). Since I use a direct setup (I ordered a Printrbot metal direct extruder (v.2), which is awesome) I have no problems with friction anymore. For the bearings I use normal machine oil.
Hey Thomas so I purchased a all metal 12v E3D v6 clone for my Tevo tarantula to upgraded me stock Hotend. However it is incredibly underpowered..in fact it only reaches 200c when it is supposed to reach around 280c easily. Any ideas?
Hi Tom, 4 years on and this video is still a great source for anyone new to 3d printing. I found it useful for planning my hotend upgrades.
"Other than self-confidence" The line that made my day :D
Dennis Bondar +1
omg he made a joke better make a conversation about it! -_____-
The reason I had to replace my keyboard. I better not drink and watch yt again....
That was pronounced with a straight face :D
i tried to buy a knockoff hot end, the hole wasnt drilled and it was basically a block of aluminum
Well... Your videos are getting even better - more rounded, "relaxed", confident. Can't wait for the next ones.
Speaking of clones. Original V6 last time I checked was $70-$100, which is beyond ridiculous for what it is. If they set a fair price they could get much more business, but for me, throwing a $100 for each hotend is a thinkless waste of money. For example "original" heatsink costs around $20, Chinese is $2 and they are absolutely identical. You don't need original for that, at all and overpay so much. the only parts that actually need to be of high quality is nozzles and the heatbreak, but again, they can be purchased elsewhere for a fair price.
And how many hotends have the Chinese actually designed? As opposed to waiting for e3d to work out the engineering and then copy it? End result? e3d go out of business. No more innovation. Also you seem to have misspelled 'are absolutely identical' when you clearly meant 'look pretty much the same to my untutored eye' :-) do you know the grade of Al used in the knockoff parts? or the stainless in their equally cheap heatbreaks? what exactly is the finish on the inside of that cheap heatbreak? How accurate was the lathe, how sharp the tool... or the operator for that matter?
I would have though that 90% of why anyone was into 3d printing would be about innovation, and innovation costs, and innovation on the bleeding edge costs even more!
Why was my BMW more expensive than a trabant? both cars, both German.... go figure.
Probably it's true, you will not get the exact quality but OP is right, 70€ for a metal tube is just ridiculous and imho the creators developed a good product and now are just riding the money wave.
@@naughtyhorses I don't count making a huge heater block with horrific oozing issues as innovation
@@friendzone2092 so stick with your Chinese designed kit then...oh hang on a minute
@@naughtyhorses My friend's Triangle Labs V6 "clone" has worked just as well as my genuine V6 directly from E3D. The only way I can see e3d improving their design further would be to make it more compact and find a better design for the transition zone.
That was sensual in the beginning ;)
René Jurack yes, love your work on the dice by the way, it's really impressive!
I'm 2 years late, but the song is gymnopedie no. 1 by Eric satie
just wanted to say I am deeply appreciative of the work you do and am a patrreon to the extent I can give.
It's been 6 years. Please can you do a reboot?
5:12 I remember the first time I bottomed out my z drive. Really gives a guy confidence! Way to add a little humor to your videos. Good job! learned a lot from listening to you. Keep them coming. (Couldn't resist one last pun)
Look at this "it's completely unusable"... Why?
yeah, i'd like tom to go into what made that hotend unusable as well.
maybe it wasn't able to srew-on the radiator part to the necessary distance? Not sure. I agree, Jared, if you trying to complaint, you ought to tell it in details and not showing like "meh... you must know the difference, right?" :)
Can't play this video on my tablet. Keeps stating, "click to retry". Just viewed a couple of your recent videos on the same tablet. I can still go back and view those. Thanks again for all you do. You are the most knowledgeable source I have found on 3D printing.
same here
+Thomas Sanladerer it Works now looking forward to it!
+Thomas Sanladerer Yes. It is working now.
This really helped me. Looking forwards to the nex videos. Greetings from Denmark!
Voice at the beginning was smooth as anything I've ever heard..
Haven’t looked back since fitting a Revo Rapid V6 hotend to my Anycubic i3. It has direct drive and handles LW-PLA single wall prints without jamming. It’s also a tidy looking setup. Worth every cent for the fully loaded kit and the supplier printed a mounting to suit which saved me the hassle.
lol, cool introduction, XD
it was so harmonic, suddenly there was a cup of coffee, an injurance guy and a unicorn in my room!
This video didn"t go into detail enough, for actually understanding what you are saying, It was very superficial, and most questions remains.
like he said "this is completely unusable" ...but doesn't explain why its unusable..
Great video, thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge. Hugs from Brazil.
Funny enough my new hot end is sitting at home right now waiting to be installed when I get off work. perfect timing.
This needs a 2022 update adding the newest hotends in the market like the Revo and the Rapido.
Lol at your voice-over! So awesome!
Good video, very informate. I was a little disappointed you didn't showcase the more exotic hotends like the diamond, the cyclops, chimera, kraken etc
hey +Thomas Sanladerer can you do a review of the palette by mosaic? im curious to see if its worth the money.
Good info Tom. Loads of useful information packed into another great vid. Though: remember, you don't have to sit on the fence anymore. It'd be great to get your opinion on what is 'best', or at least your preference. A build-log/guide with the reasons you chose each component would be ace!
I recently converted a cheap CTC printer from their generic hot end to an E3d by using the smooth chimera style heat breaks, drilling the heat bar and using the CTC thermo-couple. At first the all-metal jammed all the time until I used thermal compound between all the components, and linishing the mating surfaces to get better contact. That solved all issues and now I can print all sorts of different temp materials. Your video doesn't mention the importance of a very sharp thermal gradient at the transition zone for preventing jams... Am I correct?
Jai
4 years later, the E3D V6 is still going strong
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Hilarious beginning, the extra effort is well worth your time! Keep up the good work!
Great video :D Love the intro LOL
It should also be noted that if you are a heavy printer ( like me ) with a PTFE based hotend, you will be changing the PTFE liner eventually, (seems like i end up having to change them every couple thousand hours or so)
Taken into consideration that this is 4 years old as of this writing and my mechanical/engineering knowledge of 3d printer hot ends is rather limited, but is there a reason no one uses a graphite liner instead of Teflon? Being exceptionally slippery and nearly heat proof, the only downside I can think of is its relatively brittle nature. I'm sure someone could figure out how to drill out an inserted rod though.
i love my e3d v6 full metal one.
I have to disagree with the Chinese Hotends.
My first 3d printer, which is a delta, consists of almost all Chinese cheap parts. (Only the 1515 alum frame and the heated bed was from local suppliers).
Assembly went fine and it prints very well.
The Chinese E3D-v6 i got was like almost 4 times cheaper than the one I would have to pay If I buy it from the local 3d Printer shop. (Excluding tax)
+Calxx Try non-Chinese parts, and see if you still think yours "prints very well." Even if they are cheaper, I'd rather pay full price and send money to E3D for research than to some clowns in China who just make knockoffs and contribute nothing to the community.
+Brandon Fesser Interestingly the prints are very much on par with the ones printed by a friend, who purchased the full kit (the whole printer) from local 3D printer supplier. The main reason I decided to bet on Chinese parts is the price.
So, for people without deep pockets, the Chinese Hotends can be a really cheap and useful start. You can safely experiment with it without fearing you'll break something expensive.
Brandon Fesser surely Chinese firms do bring something to the community? Generic knock offs with similar performance characteristics as the real thing. Yes QA is questionable but they still bring something to the community and enable many who cannot afford to own a 3D printer built using high priced parts designed in the US or UK. Embiggening the community as a whole and bringing folk into the hobby, and that's the biggest contribution. They help create the 3D printing community.
Brandon Fesser I've seen creality ender-2 3dbenchies that are real good quality.. I've printed several myself. My ender-2 makes impressive 3dbenchies that are only 17mm tall. I'm only a beginner who pick random settings in cura.
Just like to confirm for your viewers, the aliexpress E3D is flawed, constant jams with PETG, a jam at the 2 hour mark with PLA, every time!. Changing temp and retraction made no diff. Required full disassembly for unjamming - nice.
I pulled it apart, there is a manufacturing void wider than 2mm above the transition zone that prevents you even pulling out jammed filament, the all-metal height is way above the transition zone causing retraction to stick to the metal (I guess). An M4 to M5 metal pipe, so you can't easily modify the setup. I drilled the heck out of the heatsink (M5) and heat pressed some rounded M4 nuts. Screwed in the usual M4 heat pipe (not sure of its technical name?) with metal the end towards heat block and teflon end inside the heatsink.
It now works like a dream with PLA and PETG. Doing the PLA at 150 speed, PETG at 100 - still tuning for higher :-)
I love the introduction, very fun :)
We need an updated one!!
A dedicated video about hotend insulation based on your experience would be very nice to watch!
To anyone who wants to get into 3d printing, I would suggest sticking with PLA at first. The J-head hot-ends (the original ones from hot-ends.com) are probably the best option for printing PLA reliably.
Disclaimer : I am not affiliated to them in any way.
I wasn't sure what we were looking at on the hot end that was "completely unusable", what was the main problem with it?
I am also interested, what is wrong with that hotend? Can anybody elaborate?
+Thomas Sanladerer could you please go into more detail?
It's so fast. The parts ll look the same. I can't tell one part from another.
What is wrong with the part?Exactly what is wrong with it?
Could you take them apart and slowly exlain what should happen.
I enjoy your videos but I didn't learn anything from his one.
This is this and this is that and....whoosh! I think that you assume that we know all about these things.
I need you to explain it as though I know nothing. Because I know nothing :-)
+Thomas Sanladerer "didn't fit in the heatsink all the way" - you mean it don't fit in length or diameter? Because I see both has the same length, only left one has grinded thread at end.
yes, i just spent a day making a $12 E3D V6 clone work, luckily i have a small metal lathe, so modifications were not hard, but anyone without a minimal metal working shop/knowledge would have been shit out of luck. Clone works as good as the original after i got done with it. was advertised as "all metal" but it came with a PTFE liner, i tossed that barrel, grabbed a M6 stainless bolt from the hardware store (actually grabbed like 15 of them, for extras) and machined my own barrel. hardest part was finding a 2mm drill bit in the US. had to settle for a pack of 3/32 bits, which is a hair over 2mm, but it got the job done, and the hot end works like a champ. now i need to go order 4-5 more of those hot ends to stock up on spares for the inevitable clogzilla that is sure to happen at some point.
If you were to get the heat sink part and shine a flashlight down the heatbreak side, you would see that the threads don't go all the way in to the bottom, so the side with the non-"ground threads" would not bottom out. leaving a large gap where the filament can bulge and cause an almost certain jam within 2-3 minutes of starting a print. Been there, done that. figured out the cause. Learn from my mistake if you ever want to modify an existing hotend.
I purchased an e3D clone of a v6 hot end. I didn't pay a lot for it, and it worked just fine at first. It got a bit unpredictable at times. I had an issue where I would have to pull the filament each time before a print, and chop semi melted end off to get it to print. I ended up buying an original e3d heat break that was all metal and I haven't had the issue since. The funny part is the price I paid for the clone and the heat break, for a few more dollars I could have got an original one.... But it prints like a champ now.
What a trip back in time lol
Invaluable tips and advice as always. Thanks Tom
Ha Ha!!!! 5:08.
Tom said a short hot end will have issues in self confidence. Lol!!!
I bought a E3D V6 Clone, it was around 7 Bucks with all the exteriour parts as fan hater and thermistor and PTFE tubing and fittings, disassembled it and didn't find any downsides, will buy a real one too to support the company but in the moment I have to keep this hobby on a budget
TheScrappingJeahaha Hey do you mind linking me the one you bought with all parts? 😊
the beginning was really poetic :)
Informative and great video as always thumbs up on the cut away.
Why is the lulzbot so expensive? What benefits does the lulzbot have over the prusa i3 orsomething cheaper?
build, easy to maintain and reliable compare to cheaper machine
Thanks for your gorgeous videos, Tom!
Boy how things have changed in 6 years.
Hi Tom, do you have any experience with the nozzle used in the Geeetech Giantarm D200 print. For some reason i have to print PLA at 230gr to get a good result and abs 250gr but at a slow speed.
haha - I thought the start was an advert, was looking for the skip button?!! :)
I used TL clone for 2 years without any issues, but finally I could afford a genuine V6, now my clone will end up on my other printer
Totally approve of the puns and 3d knowledge.
Nice video, I would like to see an updated video about extruders.
great video mate !
tom where did you get that frame :O
Hey Tom, How come you did not include any of the direct drives like the Mk8 etc?
Great channel, thanks for your awesome work!
The magic was reverse camera right? Or is your next vid on sorcery?
I have a dream of building a DEDICATED polycarbonate printer. (Enclosed, Insulated Hypercube) It would have to have an all-metal hotend. But even the bowden tube and locking mechanisms would have to be heat resistant.
Hi Tom, thanks for your great efforts in making things sound simpler and easy to understand. Could you please review the diamond multicolor hot end as well please?
I dont see the issues people get with small nozzles. I use a knockoff e3d v6 lite, with knockoff 0.2mm nozzle. The clone has worked great for like 8 months, outlived two of my printers. All I did was replace the thermistor and heater cartridge. $1 0.2mm and $1 0.8mm nozzle all work great. Ive done 0.5mm and 0.06mm layer heights, fun stuff.
I've never had a problem with a $12 e3D v6 lite clone. 6 months in and the only thing i've had to replace is the heater cartridge, because I twisted the hot end during a print and the wires shorted. Not so much as a jam has happened. The only thing I don't like is that it's a different size, so no already made designs really fit it, so i'm on my own trying to figure out how to active cool it
Yes, but in the clone transition zone tube hole is straight, but originally is conical.
Great video! Learned a ton from it.
Is it better to have a extruder throat with a larger diameter going into the hot end or a smaller one?
Does the Cr10S Pro hotend (in the area of the cooling fins) actually have the same diameter as a standard E3D V6 Hotend?
Will a short hot end result in a lack of self confidence?
Working on a RepRap all-metal conversion experiment. I got a stainless steel all-metal heat-break, and can set the proper "transition zone" gap etc... But, my question is really, if PTFE's limit is around, lets say, 240*C, what about the small PTFE insulation around the thermistor wires on typical RepRap/i3 heat blocks?
How do the typical all-metal heat blocks mount their thermistors? I found some heat blocks that utilize a brass M3 threaded 100k thermistor, but even they still utilize some form of PTFE wire insulation. Are the M3 threaded thermistors a solution to the PTFE max temperature issue?
Thank you for the rapid response! I just found a 3mm cartridge style glass fiber sleeved thermistor on Aliexpress for $3.33, rated to 300*C, (although it says the fiberglass sleeved wire is rated to 270*C). I will keep researching, I am sure there are some solutions out there somewhere.
PTFE doesn't start releasing Fluorine until 600c not 250. The only other molecule in PTFE is Carbon which won't do much.
Why you used Satie Gymnopedies. i love this piece
Nice vid, your blue E3D fan shroud is upside down and pressing against the block, mine melted that way also ;)
Nice video. I have a Lulzbot Taz3. The hotend just stopped working. Any idea where I can find a replacement for that? It looks like Lulzbot has gone out of business. I'm assuming it's the hot end that is the problem, the bed still heats up, I put a heat gun on the nozzle and the temperature goes up too. Not sure what else to check to confirm the problem.
Need more intros like this in Your videos tom.
What is that super slim V6 looking one, black, about 9 from the right on the screen, that has a reddish sock of some sort on it?
Crikey, you know your stuff! Only thing to add is using PTFE liners for flexible filament I think
If large scale, the e3d supervolcano or a filament extruder - that turns pellets into filament.
If small scale... there's too many options to suggest one. Depends what you're printing material is and exactly what scale you're working on.
Tom,
I have a custom 3d printer running Marlin on the Azteeg X3 Pro with Arduino IDE 1.6.12. I am using Repetier and having problems setting up my Geeetech Mk8 dual extruder.
Hot end 1 works fine and reads accurate temperatures with the thermistor connected to TEMP_SENSOR_0. The thermistor for hot end 2 is connected to TEMP_SENSOR_1 and also reads accurate temperatures. I have run PID autotune and changed Kp, Ki, Kd accordingly.
If I turn on hot end 1, it heats up fine. When I try to heat hot end 2, it does not heat at all and eventually times out with a heating failed error loop.
When printing, with hot end 1, everything works fine until around the second layer, hot end 2 randomly starts to heat up and eventually stops the print because it reaches maxtemp.
I was wondering if you could shed some light on what may be going on here, and possibly recommend a fix.
Also, I am not sure this is the appropriate place for such a specific question. Maybe you could direct me to a better place to ask things like this?
Thanks a lot!
Problem solved! After taking a closer look at the pin assignments, I realized hot end 2 (on pin 9) was defined as a fan, which explains why it would come on after the first layer.
Oh boy. I just got my first 3.50 euro hotend and the spare is on it's way. Now I am worried :-) But hey. 3.5 with shipping and a fan on it. It realy looks solid enough.When thing go wrong I usually learn the most.
Hello! IF I want to change the extruder of my Anet A8 which is indicated to have the best impressions? Maybe a link on Amazon. Many thanks!
Hi Tom,
I have also a E3D V6 that at the beginning nevertheless still stalled (with all/massive metal heat break)
I think there was a burr in the heatbreak.
I now have two printers that were I experimenter wih.
I still bought a few hotends from Ebay
one of them it still does well;-) (there's Teflon in in this one!)
and still
The most trouble I have with the all/massive metal heat break!
small areas no problem but print large surfaces still the printer jams
I still have to do some experimenting with cooling perhaps, what I'm going to do!
3D printing,
I think it still is quite difficult to do!!!
very happy to say that I sometimes(now and then) succeed! ;-)
good luck with making videos
Friendly greetings from the Netherlands
Rob.
I have seen two suggestions v
1. Filament retract down to 1mm, so sticky melted plastic is not pulled up into the heat break.
2. Slow reprime speed 20mm/sec
I was waiting for this video
good info for the starters I bought a cheap all metal hotend in the beginning and tried to print pla with it I still can't get it to work pla. I haven't tried abs yet though
Yeah, that shirt is great
If this whole "3d printing" thing ever goes belly up you probably have a career as a hypnotherapist.
I love the fact that this is a Build Tutorial and you chose a Minecraft BGM.
I am using a cheap 7$ hotend from Aliexpress for over a year now, with no problems. Actually, all the parts of my 3D printer are from Aliexpress.
i wonder if anyone else recognized the piano as Gyumnopedies Dai 1 Ban. nice choice.
What was it that was a problem with the threaded heatbreak you showed at the end?
He can't fully screw down the cold end heat sink which leaves a huge transition zone.
There was no bare surface on the top, and the transition zone was threaded stainless steel, which means that more heta will be transferred to the heat sink
is it fixable?
What kind of extruder cog would you recommend for a flexible filament? I plan on sticking to the same diameter, but am unsure of the curvature needed to grip the flexible filament.
nice video what hotend can i use in my Anyquibic Delta Predator printer i want to be able to do 400 degrees which one you recommend ?
Hi, I know it’s 5 years after, but what’s that small black printer in the back? Thanks
It´s the AlephObjects Lulzbot Mini
ua-cam.com/video/_RzFC5FplmY/v-deo.html
@@MadeWithLayers thank you so much. I just discover your channel and I’m a fan. Absolutely great content.
Me with Dragon HF and Rapido in 2024: Interesting!
Hi Tom. With diamond nozzle, which hotend is good for
Considering the positive feedback on clone hotends, they can't all be that bad. Sure, there's always a risk you'll get a bad one, but just buy a couple and you'll probably be fine. I'm all for supporting genuine, but I also think that the brand name parts are way too expensive for budget printers. I for one would've probably never started with Arduinos if it wasn't for the cheap knockoffs. Now it's just a matter of time before I send some money their way. Everyone wins. This is why I think you shouldn't dismiss non-genuine parts like you did.
Dat sexy voice in the intro... loved it
what is that 5 foot tall delta printer
can prusa multi-material upgrade kit be installed on other 3d printers ?
I must be lucky then every clone I got has worked perfectly for me.
Can you please tell me which lubricant is to be used with 3D printers? will coconut oil do the trick ? thanks :)
+Riyaz Mohammed Lubricant, for the filament? In the past when I had a bowden setup I tried sunflower oil when I had trouble with the friction (due to a very long bowden tubing). Since I use a direct setup (I ordered a Printrbot metal direct extruder (v.2), which is awesome) I have no problems with friction anymore. For the bearings I use normal machine oil.
Tinker Duck thanks bro i have bowden extruder which works fine for now😅 , i was asking about the lubricant for the smooth rods and the threaded rods.
have you tried the flexion extruder?
Generally an e3d v6 all metal design (original or clone) is your best bet.
Kannst du bitte ein review über das Geeetech "2 in 1 out Hotend" ?^^
+Sanladerer Danke für den Video, endlich mal eine gute Vergleich :)
Hey Thomas so I purchased a all metal 12v E3D v6 clone for my Tevo tarantula to upgraded me stock Hotend. However it is incredibly underpowered..in fact it only reaches 200c when it is supposed to reach around 280c easily. Any ideas?
Maybe they shipped a 24V heater cartridge?
Thanks, great video.
excellent music, sounded like Minecraft. excellent video as well :)