I may be the only one that appreciates your unpainting brush.. but I think everyone appreciates your videos and anecdotes, and how seamlessly you intertwine experience, skill and knowledge so a beginner like me can aspire to achieve results like yours. Thanks and keep it up please.
It is a shame that you don't have an unpainting brush in the correct shade that you could have used in those bearing mounts. Thanks for sharing these videos with us.
Are you going to paint the crank well and other recessed areas red again. I think that adds a bit of depth to the visual look and it highlights a specific area of the engine. I really enjoy your videos.
Although I am subscribed to your channel, for some reason your videos have stopped appearing in my subscription feed page. I have heard of this thing happening to other people with different channels. I'm not sure if there is anything you can do. Just making you aware. You say all the time that you're not an engineer; I am one and the model engineering hobby still seems daunting. Thank you for sharing the details of your work. I've been gaining knowledge wherever I could find it for years now and have slowly edged into ever more complex projects as I gain experience. Your channel is one of the best resources I've yet found.
I'm curious to know what the title of the music is that you used in the last part of your video. Wouldn't mind getting a copy of it. Really love all your video series. I learn something new from each video. Thank you so very much.
All of the tunes that I compose, play & record in my Studio are available as a FREE download for the personal use of my "Patreon" subscribers ......... www.patreon.com/keithappleton
I always think the Stuart beam engine reminds me of my favourite big beams, the 90 and 100 inchers at Kew which are big beasties indeed, a shame the 100 inch prob won't run again since the beam cracked (apparently this was heard across London when it broke) but the ol' 90 inch is still an impressive collection of huge lumps of best iron and steel hehe
Hi Keith, 1/8 Whit (0.125” x 40 tpi) is very close to 5 BA (3.2mm x 0.59mm = 0.128” x 43 tpi) For reasonably short tapped holes the tolerance will allow a 1/8W grub screw to be used.
If you don't want to use thinners, put the painted parts in boiling water for five minutes then transfer them immediately to ice water. The expansion and contraction knocks the paint off. A brass brush will help remove stubborn paint.
if you watch some of the other videos in the series, that's what I say - I made a mistake - I picked up the wrong tin when I was making the video ..... it's B.R. Green (Pre 1953)
I may be the only one that appreciates your unpainting brush.. but I think everyone appreciates your videos and anecdotes, and how seamlessly you intertwine experience, skill and knowledge so a beginner like me can aspire to achieve results like yours. Thanks and keep it up please.
Great video. That was the easiest way to have a reoccurring coma. Thanks.
Very, very nice. The engine work and the music.
Gosh, tht's an awful lot of work on an engine that was already quite good to start with. You are quite the perfectionist.
Your videos are the most relaxing things I have ever seen and they never fail to put me in a coma cheers to the excellent content
The darker shade of green definitely makes it look nicer.
I have to tell you that your videos are the best ever..i just like your voice... you could have your own documentary show on this engines!!!!
Very nice indeed. Thank you.
Thanks for your very special work, eh... and happy thanksgiving from us!
It is a shame that you don't have an unpainting brush in the correct shade that you could have used in those bearing mounts.
Thanks for sharing these videos with us.
he has an unpainting brush, but has run out of unpaint in green at least
I agree with Mr. Appleton, Great Northern Green is better. Thank you for the musical treat.
You are right; that dark green is much nicer. You didn't like that red in the flywheel well?
Are you going to paint the crank well and other recessed areas red again. I think that adds a bit of depth to the visual look and it highlights a specific area of the engine. I really enjoy your videos.
Red inside locomotive frames is good - but in my opinion red against green is too much like a Mamod ........
Although I am subscribed to your channel, for some reason your videos have stopped appearing in my subscription feed page. I have heard of this thing happening to other people with different channels. I'm not sure if there is anything you can do. Just making you aware.
You say all the time that you're not an engineer; I am one and the model engineering hobby still seems daunting. Thank you for sharing the details of your work. I've been gaining knowledge wherever I could find it for years now and have slowly edged into ever more complex projects as I gain experience. Your channel is one of the best resources I've yet found.
I'm curious to know what the title of the music is that you used in the last part of your video. Wouldn't mind getting a copy of it. Really love all your video series. I learn something new from each video. Thank you so very much.
All of the tunes that I compose, play & record in my Studio are available as a FREE download for the personal use of my "Patreon" subscribers ......... www.patreon.com/keithappleton
I always think the Stuart beam engine reminds me of my favourite big beams, the 90 and 100 inchers at Kew which are big beasties indeed, a shame the 100 inch prob won't run again since the beam cracked (apparently this was heard across London when it broke) but the ol' 90 inch is still an impressive collection of huge lumps of best iron and steel hehe
Wouldn't some JB Weld fix that? :-)
Hi Keith, 1/8 Whit (0.125” x 40 tpi) is very close to 5 BA (3.2mm x 0.59mm = 0.128” x 43 tpi) For reasonably short tapped holes the tolerance will allow a 1/8W grub screw to be used.
Thanks Gill - very useful information .......
If you don't want to use thinners, put the painted parts in boiling water for five minutes then transfer them immediately to ice water. The expansion and contraction knocks the paint off. A brass brush will help remove stubborn paint.
Blackgates Eng. does not ship paint to the US. Too bad, their colors look great
Try railroad model stores and their USA selection of model paints, Floquil comes to mind
Just a point of interest (or not).... what you call "grub screws" we call "set screws".
Very nice music
Thank you ......
credit where credit is due loved it. Keith you are a genius.
I wish I could paint that fast without going over edges :)
that paint isn't great northern green that is BR brunswick (the colour the flying scotsman is in now)
if you watch some of the other videos in the series, that's what I say - I made a mistake - I picked up the wrong tin when I was making the video ..... it's B.R. Green (Pre 1953)
ok sorry
{:-))))
ah a bit easier on the eye
100 years from now: "Wow, fingers were used to build and repair stuff"