OK, there's been some confusion (mostly from me!) in what happens when a PA3 is connected to a SA3 in Bridged mode. Firstly, If you connect a PA3 to a SA3 in Bridged mode, the SA3 itself becomes a monoblock and looks after the right channel. The PA3 then becomes the left channel. I did hear that you could connect more than one PA3 power amp to you hifi and yes, you can indeed add more than one PA3 amp to your hi-fi. I assumed that two PA3s would then become monoblocks but that's not so, it appears. The SA3 will always be a right channel monoblock in Bridged mode. The PA3 will always be a left channel monoblock. What you're able to do is 'chain' PA3s. So you can attach more PA3s to the left channel, PA3. You can run many PA3s in this way. Each time you will add 50-100W into 8 Ohms. So adding more than one PA3 is purely a means to increase power. The company hasn't tested the limits of this in terms of just how many PA3s will connect successfully or if the power drops off after a while. I wonder if this design would be better implemented in a Public Address-type system set up? Apologies to all for the confusion.
Hi Paul, thanks for your replies (including to my comment above) I think you must have mis-understood the 'bridged' mode and what you have replied is correct. The SA-3 becomes the right channel & the PA-3 the left. You then have double the power and a really great sound. Well worth a try for you if you still have both units, as I'd love to hear your opinion on the combo (& you can use the cables supplied to connect the trigger & dimmer sockets on each so that turning either amp on also turns on the other, and the dimming setting you have applied on the SA-3 changes the on/off switch brightness to the same level on the PA-3) I hope to look forward to a new or updated review ;-) Thanks
@@palmman50k if you all wanna see how to hook all this up , I also reviewed this integrated amp power amp Stack . Then i added the Emotiva BasX a-300 off from the PA3s preouts lh and rh this way you can bi-amp but your 3rd amp needs to be atleast 100watts at 8ohms but not over 200watts for bi-amping I also used my Onkyo integra m504 monster amp so i use the IOTA Stack for High frequency and either my Emotiva or Onkyo integra amp for low frequency , but you only need to do this if you have hard to drive speakers. i use this for my Polk Audio LSIM speakers they love power yes the stack is enough but I like headroom Its nice that a company lets you upgrade as you go , Here in America we got the Gold and black High filter compasitors a total of 54,200 micropheretes which has very nice dynamics for 100 watts at 8ohms and 180 watts at 4 ohms having those 2 power supplies of amp helps alot also instead of just one 115v check me channel out i just done a comparison video 😆
@@tee-jaythestereo-bargainph2120 Thanks Tee-Jay (BTW, great videos too). I'm quite happy with my IOTA stack as it is. The Emotivas seem to be very good too, and a real bargain in the USA, but they are a bit more here in the UK ;-)
@@palmman50k i didn't realise how much i wrote on my previous comment 😆 Yeah for the money the IOTAVX-STACK is Top level at under 1k here in the 🇺🇸 its 900.00 bucks and worth it . I was just saying if you have very enifficant speakers you can add another big amp to the IOTAVX-STACK , But if you have very efficient speakers like the Klispch RP series you only need the SA3 for power its an awesome amp enjoy everyone stay safe ✌
The way I'd use two PA3 amps with the SA3 is keep the SA3 in stereo mode, bridge both PA3 amps to serve as a left and a right monoblock fed from both SA3 pre outs.
Great review, Paul, thanks. BUT, you missed a major plus point of the SA-3 and PA-3 together, and that is putting them in to bridged mono mode (you zoom in on the back panel switch and speaker connections showing this), where the SA-3 acts as both the pre-amp and one channel for amplification and the PA-3 acts as the other channel amp. In this 'mode' the power output basically doubles and sound quality really improves, turning these into a tremendous value pre/dual mono combo for just ~£700! (As you can guess, I have this combo & am VERY happy with it) Please can you either update the video or do a follow-up where you discuss this? Thanks
I also have this combo, and run in bridged mono,, I owned a flagship Technics SEA 2000 power& pre before, but this beats it in almost every way, apart from looks.
I didn't offer more info because...I might have this wrong. It was in the editing stage of the video that I wondered if I had misunderstood the company on this and so I pulled back a bit. have asked and am still waiting for a reply but I'll issue an update on this ASAP. Maybe the monoblocks are out and a bridged mode in mono only is the only option. Let me double check.
OK, I've had some clarification from IOTA - they work Sunday! Blimey. Looks like I need to pin a note in the Comments on this. If you connect a PA3 to a SA3 in Bridged mode, the SA3 *itself* becomes a monoblock and looks after the right channel. The PA3 then becomes the left channel. There is a suggestion that you can then chain more PA3s from each PA3. More info to follow.
OK - more info and I see the reason for my confusion now. You can indeed add more than one PA3 amp to your hi-fi. I assumed that two PA3s would then become monoblocks but that's not so, it appears. The SA3 will always be a right channel monoblock in Bridged mode. The PA3 will always be a left channel monoblock. What you're able to do is 'chain' PA3s. So you can attach more PA3s to the left channel, PA3. You can run many PA3s in this way. Each time you will add 50-100W into 8 Ohms. So adding more than one PA3 is purely a means to increase power. The company hasn't tested the limits of this in terms of just how many PA3s will connect successfully or if the power drops off after a while. I wonder if this arrangement would be better implemented in a Public Address-type system set up?
Thanks for the review - very informative , as all of your videos are . I was wondering if you have ever come across or reviewed a Roksan Amp ? the K3 and Blak look like very interesting amps , and have a very good reputation but there are almost no reviews of them on-line - any information or advice would be welcome
Thanks for your lovely presentation, i have two PA3'S running in mono bridge mode, do you know wether the pre outs on the PA3 is still active, i wanted to run two subwoofers from the pre outs.
I hope you can swing back around on this one and review the SA3 and PA3 connected together in bridge mode. From what I've heard, this combo does more than increase power; It changes the sound. While this opinion is elsewhere on You Tube, it would be great to hear what your opinion would be in contrast to your description of the SA3 and PA3 by themselves.
I'll try but I do have a whopping great review queue here and lots of outstanding promises above and beyond that. So I ain't too sure about actually sorting a detailed review but I'll try. I did give the pairing a very brief hook up and sound test (nothing formal) when I tested the PA3 (I couldn't keep it long enough for a proper hook up test, though) and it did improve sound, yes.
Hi. I would be interested to know your opinion on the IotaVX NP3 pre/streamer/cd player. I am tempted to get one and use it with 2 of the reviewed power amp and for the speakers I am thinking of the new Elac unifi reference standmounts. With kind regards
I have one of these, it's nothing short of remarkable. I use my pc for my music, mostly flac files, using the digital coax output from an asus xonar essence stx sound card to my audiolab 6000a, I also use a Denon X3500H for home cinema but use the Audiolab for music. I wanted a power amp that I could switch to being a monobloc, for my centre speaker and the IOTAVX PA3 met my criteria perfectly. Out of cuiousity I thought before connecting the IOTA up as a single channel amp I would see how it sounded using the Auidolab as a preamp. I wasn't expecting much with the Audiolab being so hightly regarded as an integrated, I was shocked to say the least, this IOTA sounds fantastic, and to me it suits my taste in sound quality moreso than the Audiolab. The only downside is the illuminated logo on the fascia.
Wish I had more experience in audio, but so far so good with the SA3+PA3 combo. Seems pretty neutral and more airy and open than my PM6006, plus, plenty of power. So yeah, for £700, that'll do just fine, I don't see myself needing anything else really. Wish it had subwoofer management though (low frequency cut-off for the main speakers), but that's a nit pick.
@@mykeldg Sure. It has stronger EQ, you want bass and trebble, you got it, and it's not terribly harsh. Has loudness control, which is useful with low sensitivity speakers and low volumes. Has EQ bypass, Has dual speaker-level outputs, meh, was useful when I had to wire in the my SB-1000 subwoofer, because it doesn't have a dedicated subwoofer out. Doesn't have line-out though (has record out). Two optical in, which could be useful in a hi-fi environment, decent DAC. Basically, it's a solid general-purpose hi-fi amp, good build quality, good sound, plenty of features, couldn't say about the dac but seems to do its thing.
If I'm going to be using this with 4ohm 88 db sens speakers that are a little on the trebly side, which would you rather watch movies and listen to music with? Iota sa4 (without pa4) or pm6006?
@@jldkrank hmm... I would still say the Iota. If a bit too sharp, maybe you can play around with speaker toe-in / toe-out? Either can control the treble somewhat, PM6006 has more oumph in the low end and is rounder, can get crazy with loudness control. If just lacking bass and punch, I would really look into a subwoofer, it's really next level for stuff like movies and punchy music. Probably don't need to go crazy with SVS either. Klipsch, PolkAudio, cheaper alternatives, second hand. There are options too. Denon, Yamaha, NAD, AudioLab 6000A (more expensive really, but Tarun seems to like it, has more 'stuff'). Hard to say, but between the two, with no other considerations (no subwoofer, remember, high level inputs required with PM6006, no upgrading later), the PM6006 is pretty nice out of the box, and fuller bass if you need some help with that. Resale should be more straight forward as well if you want to go next level later. If you want more audophile goodness (more open, leaner, airier) and willing to go subwoofer or more power later (PA3), the Iota would be my choice. My $0.02.
I had the S3 but traded it and got the P3 with a Topping E30 acting as DAC/preamp. This is paired with Triangle BRO3 speakers. Sound is much better with the E30 and P3 combo than the S3. Especially midrange and treble. I think this is due to the E30 being a much better DAC than the Wolfson the S3 has (plus lower noise from having separate DAC).
@@jaytorr6701 I was thinking of getting the sa3 then upgrading with the power amp later in the year.. after reading your comment, I'm not sure now haha
I know audiophile reviewers seemingly don't ever have any interest in talking about home theater systems, nor do they ever address a power amp used in ht application for the mains speakers. Would be nice thought to hear their thoughts on how a unit like this would enhance the mains (rather than the avr itself) in a 7.2.2 system.
Thanks for the review, Audiophileman! Anybody here running a pre-amp, e.g. Schiit Freya +, over dual Iotavx PA3's in bridged mono? I'm really interested how that setup sounds.
Hello. I recently purchased the iotavx stack and was contemplating buying another PA3 amp to run as a mono block. Could you kindly guide me as to how to connect two PA3’s to the SA3 preamp. I enjoy your videos very much btw, very informative and detailed explanations. Gabe
That's very kind of you. You can't plug in two PA3s as monoblocks in a traditional stereo sense but you can bridge the PA3 which basically means connecting them in a sort of serial fashion. Basically trailing off each other in a line to add power with each connection. In this way, the SA3 acts as power for one channel and the PA3 provides power for the other channel. From what I gather, if you then trail umpteen PA3 units off the back of that lot, then more Watts are added.
Very well constructed reviews! Owner of IOTAVX sa3 and wondering how the combo Pa3, sa3 sounds! Also a recommendation for speakers (~2000€) would be very welcome. Currently owning Wharfedale 121, bluesound node 2i, Rega planar 1! Thanks in advance!
Hi Thomas - adding the PA3 to the SA3 is a natural upgrade and a highly successful one. So yes, recommended. Speakers? Spendor A4s are a bit over while these are a bit slow your budget: theaudiophileman.com/monitor-audio-silver-300-speakers-review/ but with a Planar 1, I wouldn't go there. Upgrade the turntable, cart and phono amp first.
The Audiophile Man Thanks a lot for the recommendation! I agree for the turntable upgrade! Nice loudspeakers recommendation! Will try to audition them! Keep the nice content flowing in your channel!
Tempted by a Schiit Gjallarhorn but this IOTAVX PA3 is the same money. I’m not too fussed by the power difference and plan to use it with my Schiit Lyr2 and Royd Minstrels or Abbots. I’ve got vintage Rotel RA820BX and NAD C320 but thinking either of these would be an improvement? I prefer a warmer brighter sound with emphasis on bass and treble.
I'm sure you would have lots of fun with this one and go for it if you like the look of this box although in pure sound terms, I would lean towards the monoblock Gjallarhorn set-up.
@@TheAudiophileManthank you for that. It’s difficult to be sure exactly which direction to go without being able to actually audition gear before buying.
Try requesting a home demo from your favourite dealer. If they’ve got any business sense (and are looking to establish a possible long term relationship with you) then they will work with you. Make the call.
@@TheAudiophileManmany thanks. I’m very remote with no local dealers. I’ve gone for the PA3, interested to see if it improves on my current set up of Schiit Lyr 2, Rotel RA820BX, Royd Heralds. From what I’ve read the Schiit 10 watt per channel isn’t really enough grunt and the monoblock option is too expensive and I don’t have balanced out on my Lyr 2 either. Correction, IOTAVX PA3 didn't work out so have bought a Schiit Gjallarhorn which I'm listening to with my Lyr 2 and Royd Heralds. It sparkles more but does make me realise how good my Rotel RA820BX still is from 1986 when I bought it new.
Paul, I actually contacted Iota some time ago as I became interested in their pre-amp and amp and thought I could run the amp as monoblocks. Iota said that it wasn’t built for that but that it was possible. You also mentioned that you could run two as monoblocks. Can you tell me what you had in mind and how you would wire that. I asked Iota and they never answered just that it was possible. Thanks! Really like your channel!
You know what? It's entirely possible I've misunderstood the company on this one and I may have to chomp on a piece of humble pie. I may have this one wrong. Let me check with the company. Be back ASAP.
Hmmm, I haven't compared the two or tested the Jungson properly. Only heard it in company offices, etc. Colleagues do say that the Jungson can be a little bright when pushed hard so it depends if you like that solid state presentation. The SA3/PA3 is a little more balanced in nature.
The Audiolab 6000a is at present rated the best sub £1000 amp on the market . My question to Paul is do you think the iota pre power is better than the Audiolab 6000a . The Iota would be £100 more expensive but still under a grand .?
Do you mean the SA3 and PA3? If so, that's not strictly a pre/power and I wouldn't go there if you currently have neither. It's an upgrade thing for current SA3 owners really. As it stands, it's more an integrated/power and, because of that, the performance is very good but could be improved with a better pre. Something from Schiit, a dedicated pre, would be a better option here. A Saga perhaps for around £390? A Saga/PA3 is not a pair I'm familiar with in performance terms, though but I would expect it to perform very well indeed and better than the 6000A but, as I say, I have absolutely no proof, only a gut instinct.
@@TheAudiophileMan I'm curious, did you test the PA3 with the SA3 working only as a preampliflier? My doubt is which way the combo would sound better, SA3 working as a preamp (or with another preamp like the Schiit) or in bridged mode with SA3? I have read that in the latter, apart from more power, changes the sound balance to a treble tilt.
@@TheAudiophileMan So what you are saying is the SA3 and PA3 working together does not sound as good as the Audiolab 6000A on its own? Thanks for great videos.
mark Buttery this is my dilemma too. Going to audition the audiolab 6000a tomorrow...but for £100 more can get the iotavx stack which I can’t audition. Bit stuck really. Driving wharfedale evo 4.4s by the way.
@@garyjones5947 Yes i feel your pain, I was going to order the Iotavx stack , but they took some time to reply, so being the impatient person i am i looked elsewhere .Now i am more confused .The problem is that you cant sit down and compare, the stack could be better or worse then the Audiolab.I have only heard good things about the Audiolab though ,now i have cast my net wider the Schitt Ragnorock2 is on my radar .I have dynaudio 72 speakers.Please let me know how you found the Audiolab
@@TheAudiophileMan Yes, they are integrated amps, I was referring to the combo SA3+PA3 or just the stand alone integrated SA3 amp with a decent DAC like the SMSL/Topping or the MagicDAC from Cambridge Audio. Currently I have the Yamaha A-S201 and want to push my BC Acoustique Tamise speakers further since the A-S201 is just a 50W per channel amp and also I have the Wharfedale Diamond 11.2 and I found the Yamaha just doesn't cut it, so I would be looking for a 80-100W per channel amp, since a 1991 Sansui 2x50W pushes my speakers more than the newer A-S201 and was looking at used newer Yamaha amps that fill my budget of 200-300 Euro or so.
Hi, has Iota gone out of business? I ordered their amp. They immediately took my money. My order status remains Pending. They don't respond to their contact page nor to email. Also, their phone doesn't work.
I called the company on this and found that they had a major website change, transferred a heap of data in the process and lost around 30 orders. Yours might be in that lot. The phone does work, so I'm told. I've managed to grab a direct number for you. Go to my website (www.theaudiophileman.com), email me - via the About section, it's in there - and I'll send you his personal phone number.
I might need that number too for some clarification. :/ Their site says the PA3 is sold out in £ but will still let you buy it in $ and €. Seems like the free shipping is gone as well.
Woh,woh,. If you bridge poweramps you will get difference in impedance handling and distortion. Bass will be more powerful but with less controlled. You missed in this one.
Sorry - not on this channel. I take my role very seriously and I refuse to deceive my viewers. Any sound coming from this video would have run through 20-40 different processing gates before it ever reached you so, while you will hear a noise. It will *not* be representative of the product in question. What you will be hearing is the device you're using to view the video - nothing more. The only way you'd be able to judge the sound would be to sit in my listening room with me. And then only after getting used to the reference system it was connected to.
@@TheAudiophileMan Okay i understand, nice review anyway. Yeah only the sound in your room/your speakers, your music . Have vintage IMF ALS-40 speakers and like them, reconed mid range speakers. Sound nice for my taste, sometimes little to much bass. I’m curious how this Iotavx sounds with the IMF’s. Current amp; Denon PMA 700V(1988) and a restored Sansui AU-719.
Nice job , The Sa3/Pa3 is my channels number 1 choice under 1k integrated !
OK, there's been some confusion (mostly from me!) in what happens when a PA3 is connected to a SA3 in Bridged mode. Firstly, If you connect a PA3 to a SA3 in Bridged mode, the SA3 itself becomes a monoblock and looks after the right channel. The PA3 then becomes the left channel. I did hear that you could connect more than one PA3 power amp to you hifi and yes, you can indeed add more than one PA3 amp to your hi-fi. I assumed that two PA3s would then become monoblocks but that's not so, it appears. The SA3 will always be a right channel monoblock in Bridged mode. The PA3 will always be a left channel monoblock. What you're able to do is 'chain' PA3s. So you can attach more PA3s to the left channel, PA3. You can run many PA3s in this way. Each time you will add 50-100W into 8 Ohms. So adding more than one PA3 is purely a means to increase power. The company hasn't tested the limits of this in terms of just how many PA3s will connect successfully or if the power drops off after a while. I wonder if this design would be better implemented in a Public Address-type system set up? Apologies to all for the confusion.
Hi Paul, thanks for your replies (including to my comment above)
I think you must have mis-understood the 'bridged' mode and what you have replied is correct.
The SA-3 becomes the right channel & the PA-3 the left. You then have double the power and a really great sound.
Well worth a try for you if you still have both units, as I'd love to hear your opinion on the combo (& you can use the cables supplied to connect the trigger & dimmer sockets on each so that turning either amp on also turns on the other, and the dimming setting you have applied on the SA-3 changes the on/off switch brightness to the same level on the PA-3)
I hope to look forward to a new or updated review ;-)
Thanks
@@palmman50k if you all wanna see how to hook all this up , I also reviewed this integrated amp power amp Stack . Then i added the Emotiva BasX a-300 off from the PA3s preouts lh and rh this way you can bi-amp but your 3rd amp needs to be atleast 100watts at 8ohms but not over 200watts for bi-amping I also used my Onkyo integra m504 monster amp so i use the IOTA Stack for High frequency and either my Emotiva or Onkyo integra amp for low frequency , but you only need to do this if you have hard to drive speakers.
i use this for my Polk Audio LSIM speakers they love power yes the stack is enough but I like headroom Its nice that a company lets you upgrade as you go , Here in America we got the Gold and black High filter compasitors a total of 54,200 micropheretes which has very nice dynamics for 100 watts at 8ohms and 180 watts at 4 ohms having those 2 power supplies of amp helps alot also instead of just one 115v check me channel out i just done a comparison video 😆
@@tee-jaythestereo-bargainph2120 Thanks Tee-Jay (BTW, great videos too). I'm quite happy with my IOTA stack as it is. The Emotivas seem to be very good too, and a real bargain in the USA, but they are a bit more here in the UK ;-)
@@palmman50k i didn't realise how much i wrote on my previous comment 😆 Yeah for the money the IOTAVX-STACK is Top level at under 1k here in the 🇺🇸 its 900.00 bucks and worth it . I was just saying if you have very enifficant speakers you can add another big amp to the IOTAVX-STACK , But if you have very efficient speakers like the Klispch RP series you only need the SA3 for power its an awesome amp enjoy everyone stay safe ✌
The way I'd use two PA3 amps with the SA3 is keep the SA3 in stereo mode, bridge both PA3 amps to serve as a left and a right monoblock fed from both SA3 pre outs.
Great review, Paul, thanks. BUT, you missed a major plus point of the SA-3 and PA-3 together, and that is putting them in to bridged mono mode (you zoom in on the back panel switch and speaker connections showing this), where the SA-3 acts as both the pre-amp and one channel for amplification and the PA-3 acts as the other channel amp.
In this 'mode' the power output basically doubles and sound quality really improves, turning these into a tremendous value pre/dual mono combo for just ~£700!
(As you can guess, I have this combo & am VERY happy with it)
Please can you either update the video or do a follow-up where you discuss this? Thanks
@@johnsweda2999 hi, he said, around 100 watt into 8 ohm, by using two, PA3,s,, no mention of bridged mono.
I also have this combo, and run in bridged mono,, I owned a flagship Technics SEA 2000 power& pre before, but this beats it in almost every way, apart from looks.
I didn't offer more info because...I might have this wrong. It was in the editing stage of the video that I wondered if I had misunderstood the company on this and so I pulled back a bit. have asked and am still waiting for a reply but I'll issue an update on this ASAP. Maybe the monoblocks are out and a bridged mode in mono only is the only option. Let me double check.
OK, I've had some clarification from IOTA - they work Sunday! Blimey. Looks like I need to pin a note in the Comments on this. If you connect a PA3 to a SA3 in Bridged mode, the SA3 *itself* becomes a monoblock and looks after the right channel. The PA3 then becomes the left channel. There is a suggestion that you can then chain more PA3s from each PA3. More info to follow.
OK - more info and I see the reason for my confusion now. You can indeed add more than one PA3 amp to your hi-fi. I assumed that two PA3s would then become monoblocks but that's not so, it appears. The SA3 will always be a right channel monoblock in Bridged mode. The PA3 will always be a left channel monoblock. What you're able to do is 'chain' PA3s. So you can attach more PA3s to the left channel, PA3. You can run many PA3s in this way. Each time you will add 50-100W into 8 Ohms. So adding more than one PA3 is purely a means to increase power. The company hasn't tested the limits of this in terms of just how many PA3s will connect successfully or if the power drops off after a while. I wonder if this arrangement would be better implemented in a Public Address-type system set up?
Thanks for the review - very informative , as all of your videos are . I was wondering if you have ever come across or reviewed a Roksan Amp ? the K3 and Blak look like very interesting amps , and have a very good reputation but there are almost no reviews of them on-line - any information or advice would be welcome
Yes, I looked at those in the past. Been a while though. Highly recommended. Roksan always produce nice amps.
I was looking for the bridged mode sound here. You should do a review of that config. Thanks
Thanks for your lovely presentation, i have two PA3'S running in mono bridge mode, do you know wether the pre outs on the PA3 is still active, i wanted to run two subwoofers from the pre outs.
I hope you can swing back around on this one and review the SA3 and PA3 connected together in bridge mode. From what I've heard, this combo does more than increase power; It changes the sound. While this opinion is elsewhere on You Tube, it would be great to hear what your opinion would be in contrast to your description of the SA3 and PA3 by themselves.
I'll try but I do have a whopping great review queue here and lots of outstanding promises above and beyond that. So I ain't too sure about actually sorting a detailed review but I'll try. I did give the pairing a very brief hook up and sound test (nothing formal) when I tested the PA3 (I couldn't keep it long enough for a proper hook up test, though) and it did improve sound, yes.
Hi. I would be interested to know your opinion on the IotaVX NP3 pre/streamer/cd player. I am tempted to get one and use it with 2 of the reviewed power amp and for the speakers I am thinking of the new Elac unifi reference standmounts.
With kind regards
I have one of these, it's nothing short of remarkable. I use my pc for my music, mostly flac files, using the digital coax output from an asus xonar essence stx sound card to my audiolab 6000a, I also use a Denon X3500H for home cinema but use the Audiolab for music. I wanted a power amp that I could switch to being a monobloc, for my centre speaker and the IOTAVX PA3 met my criteria perfectly.
Out of cuiousity I thought before connecting the IOTA up as a single channel amp I would see how it sounded using the Auidolab as a preamp. I wasn't expecting much with the Audiolab being so hightly regarded as an integrated, I was shocked to say the least, this IOTA sounds fantastic, and to me it suits my taste in sound quality moreso than the Audiolab. The only downside is the illuminated logo on the fascia.
I did the same, also not expecting that much, but sounds fantastic! Great minds think alike! 🙂
Wish I had more experience in audio, but so far so good with the SA3+PA3 combo. Seems pretty neutral and more airy and open than my PM6006, plus, plenty of power. So yeah, for £700, that'll do just fine, I don't see myself needing anything else really. Wish it had subwoofer management though (low frequency cut-off for the main speakers), but that's a nit pick.
hi can you share more insight on this? is there any aspect where the PM6006 does better than the Iotavx?
@@mykeldg Sure. It has stronger EQ, you want bass and trebble, you got it, and it's not terribly harsh. Has loudness control, which is useful with low sensitivity speakers and low volumes. Has EQ bypass, Has dual speaker-level outputs, meh, was useful when I had to wire in the my SB-1000 subwoofer, because it doesn't have a dedicated subwoofer out. Doesn't have line-out though (has record out). Two optical in, which could be useful in a hi-fi environment, decent DAC.
Basically, it's a solid general-purpose hi-fi amp, good build quality, good sound, plenty of features, couldn't say about the dac but seems to do its thing.
If I'm going to be using this with 4ohm 88 db sens speakers that are a little on the trebly side, which would you rather watch movies and listen to music with? Iota sa4 (without pa4) or pm6006?
@@jldkrank hmm... I would still say the Iota. If a bit too sharp, maybe you can play around with speaker toe-in / toe-out?
Either can control the treble somewhat, PM6006 has more oumph in the low end and is rounder, can get crazy with loudness control.
If just lacking bass and punch, I would really look into a subwoofer, it's really next level for stuff like movies and punchy music. Probably don't need to go crazy with SVS either. Klipsch, PolkAudio, cheaper alternatives, second hand.
There are options too. Denon, Yamaha, NAD, AudioLab 6000A (more expensive really, but Tarun seems to like it, has more 'stuff').
Hard to say, but between the two, with no other considerations (no subwoofer, remember, high level inputs required with PM6006, no upgrading later), the PM6006 is pretty nice out of the box, and fuller bass if you need some help with that. Resale should be more straight forward as well if you want to go next level later.
If you want more audophile goodness (more open, leaner, airier) and willing to go subwoofer or more power later (PA3), the Iota would be my choice.
My $0.02.
I had the S3 but traded it and got the P3 with a Topping E30 acting as DAC/preamp. This is paired with Triangle BRO3 speakers. Sound is much better with the E30 and P3 combo than the S3. Especially midrange and treble. I think this is due to the E30 being a much better DAC than the Wolfson the S3 has (plus lower noise from having separate DAC).
Doesn't the topping have the same DAC? Or am I wrong here?
@@2HatHudders Same with what? E30 has an AKM chip, the AK4493 I think.
@@jaytorr6701 hey sorry,, I thought the S3 and Topping E30 have the same Wolfson DAC? I thought they did, unless I miss read something
@@jaytorr6701 I was thinking of getting the sa3 then upgrading with the power amp later in the year.. after reading your comment, I'm not sure now haha
I'm going to buy the triangles too, recommend them ?
Thanks Paul appreciate your help.
I know audiophile reviewers seemingly don't ever have any interest in talking about home theater systems, nor do they ever address a power amp used in ht application for the mains speakers. Would be nice thought to hear their thoughts on how a unit like this would enhance the mains (rather than the avr itself) in a 7.2.2 system.
Please advise if using two PA3 as mono block and how the two connect to a regular prep amp? Tks.
Thanks for the review, Audiophileman!
Anybody here running a pre-amp, e.g. Schiit Freya +, over dual Iotavx PA3's in bridged mono?
I'm really interested how that setup sounds.
Yeah, I've got a preamplifier... It's a Goldpoint stepped pot mounted in an old radio shack line switcher.
Hello. I recently purchased the iotavx stack and was contemplating buying another PA3 amp to run as a mono block. Could you kindly guide me as to how to connect two PA3’s to the SA3 preamp. I enjoy your videos very much btw, very informative and detailed explanations. Gabe
That's very kind of you. You can't plug in two PA3s as monoblocks in a traditional stereo sense but you can bridge the PA3 which basically means connecting them in a sort of serial fashion. Basically trailing off each other in a line to add power with each connection. In this way, the SA3 acts as power for one channel and the PA3 provides power for the other channel. From what I gather, if you then trail umpteen PA3 units off the back of that lot, then more Watts are added.
Thank you, I appreciate the clarification. Keep up the great work!!!
Very well constructed reviews! Owner of IOTAVX sa3 and wondering how the combo Pa3, sa3 sounds! Also a recommendation for speakers (~2000€) would be very welcome. Currently owning Wharfedale 121, bluesound node 2i, Rega planar 1! Thanks in advance!
Hi Thomas - adding the PA3 to the SA3 is a natural upgrade and a highly successful one. So yes, recommended. Speakers? Spendor A4s are a bit over while these are a bit slow your budget: theaudiophileman.com/monitor-audio-silver-300-speakers-review/ but with a Planar 1, I wouldn't go there. Upgrade the turntable, cart and phono amp first.
The Audiophile Man Thanks a lot for the recommendation! I agree for the turntable upgrade! Nice loudspeakers recommendation! Will try to audition them! Keep the nice content flowing in your channel!
Tempted by a Schiit Gjallarhorn but this IOTAVX PA3 is the same money. I’m not too fussed by the power difference and plan to use it with my Schiit Lyr2 and Royd Minstrels or Abbots. I’ve got vintage Rotel RA820BX and NAD C320 but thinking either of these would be an improvement? I prefer a warmer brighter sound with emphasis on bass and treble.
I'm sure you would have lots of fun with this one and go for it if you like the look of this box although in pure sound terms, I would lean towards the monoblock Gjallarhorn set-up.
@@TheAudiophileManthank you for that. It’s difficult to be sure exactly which direction to go without being able to actually audition gear before buying.
Try requesting a home demo from your favourite dealer. If they’ve got any business sense (and are looking to establish a possible long term relationship with you) then they will work with you. Make the call.
@@TheAudiophileManmany thanks. I’m very remote with no local dealers. I’ve gone for the PA3, interested to see if it improves on my current set up of Schiit Lyr 2, Rotel RA820BX, Royd Heralds. From what I’ve read the Schiit 10 watt per channel isn’t really enough grunt and the monoblock option is too expensive and I don’t have balanced out on my Lyr 2 either. Correction, IOTAVX PA3 didn't work out so have bought a Schiit Gjallarhorn which I'm listening to with my Lyr 2 and Royd Heralds. It sparkles more but does make me realise how good my Rotel RA820BX still is from 1986 when I bought it new.
Paul, I actually contacted Iota some time ago as I became interested in their pre-amp and amp and thought I could run the amp as monoblocks. Iota said that it wasn’t built for that but that it was possible. You also mentioned that you could run two as monoblocks. Can you tell me what you had in mind and how you would wire that. I asked Iota and they never answered just that it was possible. Thanks! Really like your channel!
You know what? It's entirely possible I've misunderstood the company on this one and I may have to chomp on a piece of humble pie. I may have this one wrong. Let me check with the company. Be back ASAP.
Please see the pinned post above for more info. Just received an answer from IOTA from my query on this one.
Thanks a lot Paul ! 👍👍👍
Would it be possible to do a review of the sa3/pa3 combination please...would be greatly appreciated.
Got a pretty long review queue here but I'll try my best.
The Audiophile Man thanks Paul.
Hi Paul... Can I use the pre outs from the Sa3 to drive a crown power amp ???
Great review.Im trying to decide between the sa3/ps3 combo,or Jungson JA88 luxury edition class A I tegrated for a few hundred more USD
Hmmm, I haven't compared the two or tested the Jungson properly. Only heard it in company offices, etc. Colleagues do say that the Jungson can be a little bright when pushed hard so it depends if you like that solid state presentation. The SA3/PA3 is a little more balanced in nature.
The Audiolab 6000a is at present rated the best sub £1000 amp on the market . My question to Paul is do you think the iota pre power is better than the Audiolab 6000a . The Iota would be £100 more expensive but still under a grand .?
Do you mean the SA3 and PA3? If so, that's not strictly a pre/power and I wouldn't go there if you currently have neither. It's an upgrade thing for current SA3 owners really. As it stands, it's more an integrated/power and, because of that, the performance is very good but could be improved with a better pre. Something from Schiit, a dedicated pre, would be a better option here. A Saga perhaps for around £390? A Saga/PA3 is not a pair I'm familiar with in performance terms, though but I would expect it to perform very well indeed and better than the 6000A but, as I say, I have absolutely no proof, only a gut instinct.
@@TheAudiophileMan I'm curious, did you test the PA3 with the SA3 working only as a preampliflier? My doubt is which way the combo would sound better, SA3 working as a preamp (or with another preamp like the Schiit) or in bridged mode with SA3? I have read that in the latter, apart from more power, changes the sound balance to a treble tilt.
@@TheAudiophileMan So what you are saying is the SA3 and PA3 working together does not sound as good as the Audiolab 6000A on its own? Thanks for great videos.
mark Buttery this is my dilemma too. Going to audition the audiolab 6000a tomorrow...but for £100 more can get the iotavx stack which I can’t audition. Bit stuck really. Driving wharfedale evo 4.4s by the way.
@@garyjones5947 Yes i feel your pain, I was going to order the Iotavx stack , but they took some time to reply, so being the impatient person i am i looked elsewhere .Now i am more confused .The problem is that you cant sit down and compare, the stack could be better or worse then the Audiolab.I have only heard good things about the Audiolab though ,now i have cast my net wider the Schitt Ragnorock2 is on my radar .I have dynaudio 72 speakers.Please let me know how you found the Audiolab
It's real shame they aren't available here in the States. The shipping is almost $100 from what I've found for the integrated amp.
I paid 35 dollars for shipping from the companies website...
Hi, considering the price would it be worthwhile upgrading to mono-block by using 2 amps?
Hi John - please see the pinned Comment from me on this subject and come back afterwards if you need more info.
I would like to know of this si an upgrade from the Yamaha A-S700 or A-S701
Aren't both of the Yamahas integrated amps? The PA3 is a power amplifier.
@@TheAudiophileMan Yes, they are integrated amps, I was referring to the combo SA3+PA3 or just the stand alone integrated SA3 amp with a decent DAC like the SMSL/Topping or the MagicDAC from Cambridge Audio.
Currently I have the Yamaha A-S201 and want to push my BC Acoustique Tamise speakers further since the A-S201 is just a 50W per channel amp and also I have the Wharfedale Diamond 11.2 and I found the Yamaha just doesn't cut it, so I would be looking for a 80-100W per channel amp, since a 1991 Sansui 2x50W pushes my speakers more than the newer A-S201 and was looking at used newer Yamaha amps that fill my budget of 200-300 Euro or so.
@@SacreDro I’d certainly go for the pre and power over both Yamahas, sure.
Hi, has Iota gone out of business? I ordered their amp. They immediately took my money. My order status remains Pending. They don't respond to their contact page nor to email. Also, their phone doesn't work.
I called the company on this and found that they had a major website change, transferred a heap of data in the process and lost around 30 orders. Yours might be in that lot. The phone does work, so I'm told.
I've managed to grab a direct number for you. Go to my website (www.theaudiophileman.com), email me - via the About section, it's in there - and I'll send you his personal phone number.
When I say 'his' I mean a contact in the company. He'll sort it out for you if you give him full details
@@TheAudiophileMan thanks so much for your help! I emailed you. I look forward to connecting with someone at Iota
I might need that number too for some clarification. :/
Their site says the PA3 is sold out in £ but will still let you buy it in $ and €. Seems like the free shipping is gone as well.
Woh,woh,. If you bridge poweramps you will get difference in impedance handling and distortion. Bass will be more powerful but with less controlled.
You missed in this one.
Nice review/talking, let's hear some sound/music...
Sorry - not on this channel. I take my role very seriously and I refuse to deceive my viewers. Any sound coming from this video would have run through 20-40 different processing gates before it ever reached you so, while you will hear a noise. It will *not* be representative of the product in question. What you will be hearing is the device you're using to view the video - nothing more. The only way you'd be able to judge the sound would be to sit in my listening room with me. And then only after getting used to the reference system it was connected to.
@@TheAudiophileMan
Okay i understand, nice review anyway.
Yeah only the sound in your room/your speakers, your music .
Have vintage IMF ALS-40 speakers and like them, reconed mid range speakers. Sound nice for my taste, sometimes little to much bass.
I’m curious how this Iotavx sounds with the IMF’s.
Current amp; Denon PMA 700V(1988) and a restored Sansui AU-719.