Not only are the bikes unique individually, the riders are too. The power valve should be adjusted to the rider's preference and needs, just like suspension should.
I found in practice, that there is an ideal setting and with more preload on PV the torque behaviour of the Motor gets uneven. This means torque is low and with increasing speed it rises much and suddenly. I can not see who can take benefit of such behaviour.
Well said. A lot of us are interested in seeing your inspection of 2019 top end when you break it down. If you weren't planning on filming it, please do.
Alot of guys try the same thing with jetting. They buy a carb, stick it in and really don't even know how to adjust the airscrew on a daily basis. Once u learn the bike and how the adjustments feel, it only takes 5 minutes. Good video!
Thank you so much, it is all true. You encouraged me to turn the "forbidden" screw. I have tested my adjustment on a 2019 Husky TE250i on a straight with all adjustments from full in to full out. Initially my Bike was weak in the mid of the Powerband and increasing to very strong at upper rev, indicating the PV was preloaded too much and thus opening too late. Turning in, this behaviour shifted to even higher revs. Finally, the screw 2 turns out from initial (initial: 1,7mm in) gave me the most power and at the same time the best control. Different much better motor now. Thanks a lot! (my optimal setting: screw sticks out 0,3mm from even with housing.)
On my 17 xcw I’m running the green spring with the brass dongle flush. I like it that way because it made the bike extremely linear. Our trails are really tight with lots of logs and rock step ups with no run ups at times. 1. It took away arm pump fatigue from going in and out of the hit and a little less clutch work through the tight stuff 2. I love hoping big logs at low rpm and minimal wheel spin. This year was the first time I started tuning the PV. I should have done it earlier.
Twiisty nope no rekluse, I live in an area with toughest single track in North America, but thanks for the reply 😉 Let me guess, your clapped out 2006 honda 450 is just the bomb.....lulz
on "my" '17 Flush was too far and I was actually detuning it. "My" '17 about 3/4 of a turn out was linear and beyond that I actually started detuning just like in. JD had some great graphs with Dyno Runs years ago showing exactly that.
I have been saying this since end of 2018, when I purchased my 2019, and talked to other people that owns/owned tpi bikes, and my final conclusion is every bike is definitely different in their own way and not a cookie cutter assembly from manufacturer
@@user-wc7vn6uz9h Congrats on your ktm 150 sx! It is a carbureted version I'm sure. In my opinion that's a good thing. I'm 50 years young...lol but I prefer carved 2- strokes personally as I believe they run better & are more reliable. I still have my older 2011 ktm 300 XC and love it still not to mention I haven't had any problems with it at all. I did replace the piston and reeds 1 time and it still runs like a boss! Enjoy your ride buddy.
I just converted my 2022 exc 250 into supermoto. The workshop guys obviously changed the rear sprocket to make the gears longer, but after a few days of riding I realised the bike was nearly dead at low rpm. I turned the power valve 180 degrees counterclockwise and now I have power at any revs because the valve opens earlier and it gives that extra punch to pull longer gears
Yes exactly! I was disappointed with my 2022 tx300i at first because it felt like it would fall flat on its face in the upper area of the power band. Adjusting to preference is so important, like you said there is no set point for it…it has everything to do with personal preference whether that be your riding skill, your riding type/ environment, and overall what you want out of the bike.
I’ve owned a few Katos but bloody hell I can’t afford to buy 2 at a time let alone 17 bikes in a few years. UA-cam must bloody pay well. I’d love to be living this life and riding as much as you do. Keep it up
Just did this to my 2021 300 XC TPI and I'm actually amazed at the difference it made. I was trying to practice slow wheelies and double throttle blips and really struggling. Turned out 2 rotations and bam! slow wheelies no problem. I didn't think it would make that big of difference, definitely going to be bringing out my adjuster tool next time I go to the trails in case I need anymore adjustments.
@@branttmyhres74 Counter-clockwise, when the dealer assembled the bike I think they turned it in way to far. It's now close to flush with the case. I would say ride your bike at low speeds and try to pick the front end up without using your arm strength at all, then adjust as needed until it the power comes on the way you like. Like I said in my comment, mine was really slow for power to come on and I had to yank on my bars to get the front end up, after adjusting I could just use the clutch and throttle to get it up into slow wheelies the way I wanted, and the power was the way I wanted in flowy single track too.
I use a 1/4" extension and grind two adjoining sides down. It makes the square smaller. Fit it to the hole in the power valve adjuster. Buy an extension at a hardware or automotive store. The cheapest one is fine. Don't grind too far but it doesn't have to fit perfect. The load to turn it is not horrible. Good Luck!
@ZonaEnduro Makes sense now. I guess you have the main spring turned in a few turns. I have a 2014 250 xcw. Last couple bikes were kx & yz 250 so used to being able to pick up the front with a quick twist. I assume my bike has a yellow spring. I turned it out to flush. It's pretty good, but I bought a red to try but haven't installed it yet.
I'm a little late here but I have a 2017 Husq TX300 and I use a Kreft Powerdial. I change the powervalve all the time based on where I'm riding. I'm 50+ and ride a lot of long races. I turn my pv in quite a bit, usually between 1.5 to 2.5 turns in from flush to make the bike calmer and easier to ride. I have a Lectron carb and an FMF pipe and silencer and turning the adjuster in takes away the whiskey throttle. Full power is always available with just a stab of the clutch when it's needed. Do some testing. You will find there is a lot you can do with the pv to help you ride faster and better.
even if they made 100 motors in the same day and dyno spec each one, no two would have identical numbers at identical spots along the curve. every piston , rod , head , rings , crank will have different weights and tolerances from each other. leading to every motor behaving differently (minuscule differences) . Also if the motors are tuned to run as clean as possible ( which is likely ) due to the EPA , and unless they can control every single variable from humidity , to barometric pressure in the dyno cell than hour to hour and day to day every motor will have different settings to reach emissions optimizations for the day it was put on the dyno. Thats just my theory Based on KTMs engine assembly information and knowing they do dyno tune and inspect every motor before it gets installed into the bike. "There are different types of dynos. Some build up all necessary connections (fixation, exhaust, fuel, wiring) more or less automatic or semi-automatic, after the engine has been put in, some have to be mounted manually. The circulating cooling water is preheated to smooth out ‘warming up’. The dynos for two strokers logically operates without the oil pressure control task, in addition the test run is used to time exactly the opening of the outlet valve at given revs with help of a spring (which has been pre-adjusted on the line), so that engine characteristics are tuned in the optimal way." source KTM Blog.com id like to note it does not say the engines are tuned for optimum performance, just they are tuned in the "optimal way" thats like reading the words Natural flavors on the ingredients list on foods. it basically can mean anything and nothing.
Seems to be what you are saying is a lack of quality control at the factory. They should all be run up and tested and set the same (not the screw position, but the power) Each bike should ride exactly like the next one off the line if the proper checks were in place. Yes the owner can fiddle with it, but at the prices the Team Orange charge for these bikes, you expect them to be right...Maybe even Ready to Race 🤔
Hi Owen. My son is only 12 and stands at 5’9. Just 4 months ago he came off a KTM 85SX. I too contemplated putting him on a 150 EXC. After debating a lot and considering his riding style and what terrain we ride I decided to put him straight on the 2020 250 EXC TPI. Best decision ever to bypass the 150. He loves it and really there is no difference in weight. Just to give you a comparison for yourself he is 5’9 and weighs in at 82 kg fully loaded with gear and Camelback. I hope this helps. Trust me you won’t regret going straight to the 250. Have fun.
I was literally just going to email you this question about my 2020 250xc. I have 5 hours on the bike now and feel like it’s alil boggy. Thanks for the info.
I'd put some more hrs on it before you really start to mess with too much. The break in period can really take a bit longer then you think. At least from my experience with my '19 250 xcw.
xXxIcedaddyxXx yea that’s what I was thinking too. As of now I don’t think there’s going to be much hare scrambles this year but I want to be ready when we can go racing
Useful info for someone who knows how a two stroke 250/300 should perform. I'm coming off a KLX250S onto a XC300 and will have my first ride this Sunday. Coming off a gutless dual sport, I have no idea how the XC 300 should feel. I guess I just won't touch mine at all or maybe I'll run into another TPI rider who can try my bike and see how it compares to theirs.
Power valve would better be called power delivery valve. On one end you have torque and the other horsepower. Do you want a slow mid range or fast delivery of horsepower or stated another way but the same thing do you want a longer delivery or mid range or quick loss of torque? The yellow valve gives you balanced delivery of torque and horsepower by creating a smooth range of power delivery. Otherwise without the power valve and a big bore exhaust you’d grab the throttle and it would lug and then all of a sudden stand up and wheelie. On the flip side keeping small exhaust port gives more torque to lug you up hills at low speed but when you open it up there high speed is gone. In short. Don’t piss with it and if you do with big swings it’s a matter of preference and likely will have you being beat on the track or in the hills by your buddies.
From my understanding the reason KTM doesn't recommend adjusting the PV away from factory settings is because the fuel injection system is tuned with the factory setting...if you adjust the PV setting the fuel mixture could be off and cause a lean condition.
@@hoptard Actually, this is true. Several people had bikes that ran like crap in the midrange and it was traced to the powervalve not opening at the specified RPM from the factory.
Bought a new te150i and it just ran like crap. When doing 45 mph it huffed and puffed stuttered with a constant throttle opening. After setting the idle It still wasn't working. We figured out it could be the powervalve that was willing to open but didn't. But at 45 mph it should be open already. We found the PV to be almost completely in. We had to wind it out +3 turns to wake the bike up. There seems to be no basic setting at all at the factory. They mark it so it looks as if one shouldn't play with it. Fuel consumption also was very bad for a tpi. Exhaust was wet. I believe the wound in PV might be responsible for all that since the bike couldn't breath out properly.
I run the green spring for two reasons. I facebooked messaged MR Garvis himself and he only runs the green spring. The green spring is also more trackable, and the power is much more linear.
What's the point of adjusting the valve when your exhaust has been destroyed won't do a thing the 300 stops making power after the strong bottom end with all the tourqe But the 250 gets stronger with higher Revs
This video was very helpful. Just one question though. Did you change to any of the other spring colors? I currently have the red spring in mine. It was the first thing I changed when I got it home back in 2019. Not really sure what the other springs are like.
As you know I support your channel. But I have a simple question. Instead of adjusting the newer versions of the TPI bikes, the ones suggested not to move. Why haven't you tried using the other spring rates first? Seeing if that give the desired outcome / without changing the setting from the factory dyno?
my exhaust used to catch fire and glow red. totally discolor winding my valve out cause the bike to stall. and winding it in caused it to rev to half throttle no powerband ktm powerparts dont sell the spring. could this spring be cooked and gone to stiff
Would you know if it's OK to make adjustments on the power valve after installing a coober ECU.? Thanks for all the content and your helpful opinions on KTMs. Finally pulled the trigger on a new 300 xc and love it Thanks again dude
I have. 2019 250 xc-w tpi. About 50 hours on it. Running like is plugged up now. Used to run great. I replace crank case pressure sensor. Still running plugged up. What else do you suggest. I need help please.
Jimmy Lewis (runs dirt bike test) says not to adjust the powervalve without addressing ECU tuning as you might cause motor damage to a tpi bike. Any thoughts on this? Jimmy is a pretty knowledgeable guy if you aren't familiar with him
Adam Dyment JD did dyno tests on TPI and non TPI bikes. He has graphs published of what each 1/4 turn does from closed to open to your power curve and he tested TPI bikes to see if turning it a turn would make them run too lean. My TPI I had red spring and 5/8 turn out. I also added a JD Tuner as “my ‘19” TPI was lean and lethargic from the day I got it.
Hey mate just bought 300xc and dealer told me not to touch the power valve cause it’s been set on the dyno and tuned .. i made 1 turn out just wanna know if it will stuff my bike up down the track ? Thanks
great info I have a 2019 te300i its spot on little cold blooded but be patient give it a few minutes to warm up ... come ride n nevada on one of my tap out trail tours.
Would have been helpful to state what changes as you screw it in or out rather than stating you bought 19 of these and they all came different 16 times on repeat. You're just a sweepstakes guy trying to hawk orange power valve covers?
Good insight mate. I have 2018 ktm 300, was bit boggy, using heaps of fuel. Didn't like running slow for too long without clearing it out with a good rev. Fouled so many plugs ever ride. Only 50km to a tank if lucky. Changed jets, put suzuki needle in to get rid of mikuni carb stupid weird tapered at end needle. Put powervalve adjustment out too almost flush, 14/49 sprockets. She's an animal now. Beats all my mates 450s in the tracks,dunes,road. Getting just over 150km/hour top speed, but still only about 70-80km range. Mikuni carburetor sux. Wish I had my keihan off last ktm300. Avagud1
I have changed the valve tuning with a manual one and honestly I am not agree when you say set it like you like it and leave it i think you need to adjust at what type of riding you do day by day and that manual valve is top you just turn it by hand with no tools .
Looking at a 2021 300 Would u say turning the power valve out gives more low end rev, for example hitting/revs hard coming out of corners. Tuning this cause any issues with the oil to fuel auto mix?
Thanks for the content, as far as "tune it to your preference" -- what exactly does it change as far as the power characteristics? You mentioned not liking how one of them revved out and 2 full turns out resolved that -- so it changes top-end? does it do anything for bottom end? How does modifying it interact using the power map switch?
It's the hit. The further in, the hit will come later and not be as snappy. With the screw flush with the case, the hit will come sooner. You just have to play with it. I keep my Beta 300RR almost flush with the case. You just have to play with it.
@@BarnStangz From the dyno charts I've seen with a little googling it looks like it makes a difference starting somewhere in the 4500 - 5500 range and up from there. So to answer my own question, seems like low-end is unaffected.
The further out it is, the quicker the power band comes in and further in the later. With it all the way flush the power will come on sooner but because it's a couple hundred rpms lower shouldn't be as violent.
I’ve seen one of your videos where you say that you use the red spring in all your ktms because it makes the power more linear. Is this also true with tpi bikes or do you leave in the yellow spring and just adjust the screw on the fuel injected models. I have a 250 tpi and was considering red spring. Lineat
Wife just bought me a 2022 300xcw for Christmas! 🤘. But I do have a question. I have had an 06 (vforce 4 reeds and fmf exhaust) forever. Always loved it. Riding them back to back the 06 seems like it's just way more alive. Is that to be expected or is there something I need to check into on the '22?
TPI bikes come with the Yellow Spring just like the non-TPI, you can still buy the other springs and replace though. TPIs are a bit soft so a Red spring really can help.
Hi Kyle, love the channel, big fan. Soooo, to confirm; screw out (anti clockwise) for a more aggressive power curve, screw in (clockwise) for a mellow power curve? Also have you had any experience with changing the the spring color, ie as per older ktm 2ies?
Basically, Yes, But if you go too far out you will have a similar effect as going in. I like to find a small loop with some undulations and a slight to medium uphill to roll on and off the throttle on, I go OUT 1/2 turn, better or worse If better, another 1/2 turn, not better then back 1/4 better then I leave it and so on. I've found on my 3 17-19 300s I liked 1/2 - 5/8 turn out on all of them, it just makes the power come on a bit earlier which makes it more linear instead of detuned then a hit.
@@leroywilliams7210 ohh ok, see i couldnt tell if people were getting them and turning the screw all the way in and then counting turns out, or like you said getting them and turning it out
My Son has a ‘19 150 xcw, the manual says do not move the brass adjustment screw. It came with two springs, one is yellow and the other has no color code. We have tried both springs and both seem to hold the power closed for too long. Anyone have any suggestions on whether or not to move the brass adjuster?
My 2020 300 exc is an awesome bike but it hits a wall for a few seconds just as it’s about to hit power band , is this a power valve issue or something else ?
The most skilled riders on earth like Graham Jarvis run the screw all the way in (green spring equivalent). Makes the bike the most toned down and controllable for traction and getting power to the ground. It’s the noobs who turn it all the way out “for the roost”, “the power band” etc. the higher your skill the more you want to turn it in. The opposite of what most people think!
@@apostate4apostate494 two better riders than I ride flush and convinced me to try the same. I adjusted my 250 xcw tpi to flush, whiskey throttled on portions of the 12 mile loop that I usually enjoy, had immediate ridiculous arm pump and whiskey throttled again down a hill. Road back to the trailer and cranked that baby back in! screw that! Literally hahahaha
In, Power comes on later and usually more of a "Hit", out and it comes on earlier giving less "hit" and more linear, but giving more power earlier which can be too much and abrupt.
This is not the correct way to adjust the Power valve on the tpi. You need the xc2 diagnostic tool. Activate Power valve set up which limits the bike to 5000rpm. Then you can adjust the toothed arm on the right hand side with the cover off. That's the standard setting should be done at the factory but isn't. After that's done you can make small adjustments.
Well you say it’s “kinda garbage advise” but let’s just think for a second that ktm are setting them up so they all perform equally, the power valve opens and closes the same on each bike, however due to some variables (at ktm that we are not aware of) the brass screw can vary greatly in regards to position when set at the factory……. So if you adjust it half a turn out or half a turn in it’s going to have the same effect on the power valve (naturally minus some variables) regardless of where it was set from factory. So now your logic is nonsense isn’t it. Either it’s nonsense or ktm just sets them up wherever looks about right and it’s really not that big of a deal in which case they are all different from the factory in terms of performance and power curve
The power valve spec in the Owners Manual is not the same for a 250 and a 300. 2020, 2021 & 2022 300"s all call for 2.3 mm +-0.2 mm distance from the top of the aduster screw out to the surface of the case around the screw. It is 2.7 mm as I recall for those years of 250"s. Must compare apples to apples! 300 to 300. 250 to 250l So your 2 bikes bought on the same day should not have been the same! You are wrong not KTM. I have z 2022 300 XC,
You give very wrong advice, in fact you'd better take this video down! Each bike comes ex-factory with the PV set to start-activate at 5500rpm, you knew? Only when that is set one can start 'personalizing', a lil more or less.... but it won't be massive bits, maybe a few hundred rpm's. Oh, be sure to measure the rpm's: open the LHS EV-cover, rev the bike to the point you see it starting to open, then check what revs it does... and adjust from there! Simple really, and LOADS better than your "turn it in or out until you're happy".
Not only are the bikes unique individually, the riders are too. The power valve should be adjusted to the rider's preference and needs, just like suspension should.
I found in practice, that there is an ideal setting and with more preload on PV the torque behaviour of the Motor gets uneven. This means torque is low and with increasing speed it rises much and suddenly. I can not see who can take benefit of such behaviour.
Well said. A lot of us are interested in seeing your inspection of 2019 top end when you break it down. If you weren't planning on filming it, please do.
Alot of guys try the same thing with jetting. They buy a carb, stick it in and really don't even know how to adjust the airscrew on a daily basis. Once u learn the bike and how the adjustments feel, it only takes 5 minutes. Good video!
That FMF silencer has seen better days
Just needs a new sticker slapped on it, good as new.
@@jbones123 lol
Look at the pipe. Looks worse.
Thank you so much, it is all true. You encouraged me to turn the "forbidden" screw. I have tested my adjustment on a 2019 Husky TE250i on a straight with all adjustments from full in to full out. Initially my Bike was weak in the mid of the Powerband and increasing to very strong at upper rev, indicating the PV was preloaded too much and thus opening too late. Turning in, this behaviour shifted to even higher revs.
Finally, the screw 2 turns out from initial (initial: 1,7mm in) gave me the most power and at the same time the best control.
Different much better motor now. Thanks a lot! (my optimal setting: screw sticks out 0,3mm from even with housing.)
On my 17 xcw I’m running the green spring with the brass dongle flush. I like it that way because it made the bike extremely linear. Our trails are really tight with lots of logs and rock step ups with no run ups at times.
1. It took away arm pump fatigue from going in and out of the hit and a little less clutch work through the tight stuff
2. I love hoping big logs at low rpm and minimal wheel spin.
This year was the first time I started tuning the PV. I should have done it earlier.
sounds fun to ride....zzzzzzzzzzzz You probably ride with a reckluse too
Twiisty nope no rekluse, I live in an area with toughest single track in North America, but thanks for the reply 😉
Let me guess, your clapped out 2006 honda 450 is just the bomb.....lulz
on "my" '17 Flush was too far and I was actually detuning it. "My" '17 about 3/4 of a turn out was linear and beyond that I actually started detuning just like in. JD had some great graphs with Dyno Runs years ago showing exactly that.
Leroy Williams I’ll have to give it a try. I haven’t really played around with it, basically went from stock to flush
I have been saying this since end of 2018, when I purchased my 2019, and talked to other people that owns/owned tpi bikes, and my final conclusion is every bike is definitely different in their own way and not a cookie cutter assembly from manufacturer
I bought a KTM today because of this channel ... great work Kyle
My dad got me a new 150 sx for my bday and I can't stop riding it, it just hits different
@@user-wc7vn6uz9h Congrats on your ktm 150 sx! It is a carbureted version I'm sure. In my opinion that's a good thing. I'm 50 years young...lol but I prefer carved 2- strokes personally as I believe they run better & are more reliable. I still have my older 2011 ktm 300 XC and love it still not to mention I haven't had any problems with it at all. I did replace the piston and reeds 1 time and it still runs like a boss! Enjoy your ride buddy.
@@jeff40 definitely agree!
@@user-wc7vn6uz9h congrats on the new bike !
I just converted my 2022 exc 250 into supermoto. The workshop guys obviously changed the rear sprocket to make the gears longer, but after a few days of riding I realised the bike was nearly dead at low rpm. I turned the power valve 180 degrees counterclockwise and now I have power at any revs because the valve opens earlier and it gives that extra punch to pull longer gears
Yes exactly! I was disappointed with my 2022 tx300i at first because it felt like it would fall flat on its face in the upper area of the power band. Adjusting to preference is so important, like you said there is no set point for it…it has everything to do with personal preference whether that be your riding skill, your riding type/ environment, and overall what you want out of the bike.
I’ve owned a few Katos but bloody hell I can’t afford to buy 2 at a time let alone 17 bikes in a few years. UA-cam must bloody pay well. I’d love to be living this life and riding as much as you do. Keep it up
It the merch and sponsors not precisely YT...
Got my 2013 XC-W dialled in by adjusting 1/4 turn at a time and got it perfect. Great video thanks Kyle.
Just did this to my 2021 300 XC TPI and I'm actually amazed at the difference it made. I was trying to practice slow wheelies and double throttle blips and really struggling. Turned out 2 rotations and bam! slow wheelies no problem. I didn't think it would make that big of difference, definitely going to be bringing out my adjuster tool next time I go to the trails in case I need anymore adjustments.
Did you go counterclockwise or clockwise? Is it flush with case now?
@@branttmyhres74 Counter-clockwise, when the dealer assembled the bike I think they turned it in way to far. It's now close to flush with the case. I would say ride your bike at low speeds and try to pick the front end up without using your arm strength at all, then adjust as needed until it the power comes on the way you like. Like I said in my comment, mine was really slow for power to come on and I had to yank on my bars to get the front end up, after adjusting I could just use the clutch and throttle to get it up into slow wheelies the way I wanted, and the power was the way I wanted in flowy single track too.
@@johnschmalenberg Thanks!
Im having this exact problem. I will have to turn it way out because right now its 2.7mm in
I got a 1999 ktm 250 mxc the other week. It was a trail rode so the power band never kicked in. Adjusted it and it runs so good now.
I use a 1/4" extension and grind two adjoining sides down. It makes the square smaller. Fit it to the hole in the power valve adjuster. Buy an extension at a hardware or automotive store. The cheapest one is fine. Don't grind too far but it doesn't have to fit perfect. The load to turn it is not horrible. Good Luck!
This is what I did and used a small wabbly attached to it I carry in my pocket on Tuning days for quick adjustments!
We like to use red spring with very late break in. This way you have half throttle torque and after half you will have a motocrosser.
What do you mean by very late break in?
@@ML-vk8evvery late open of the pw. but that's just a personal preference.
@ZonaEnduro
Makes sense now. I guess you have the main spring turned in a few turns. I have a 2014 250 xcw. Last couple bikes were kx & yz 250 so used to being able to pick up the front with a quick twist. I assume my bike has a yellow spring. I turned it out to flush. It's pretty good, but I bought a red to try but haven't installed it yet.
I did it mine. Very happy now. Bikes feeling usable now.
I'm a little late here but I have a 2017 Husq TX300 and I use a Kreft Powerdial. I change the powervalve all the time based on where I'm riding. I'm 50+ and ride a lot of long races. I turn my pv in quite a bit, usually between 1.5 to 2.5 turns in from flush to make the bike calmer and easier to ride. I have a Lectron carb and an FMF pipe and silencer and turning the adjuster in takes away the whiskey throttle. Full power is always available with just a stab of the clutch when it's needed. Do some testing. You will find there is a lot you can do with the pv to help you ride faster and better.
even if they made 100 motors in the same day and dyno spec each one, no two would have identical numbers at identical spots along the curve. every piston , rod , head , rings , crank will have different weights and tolerances from each other. leading to every motor behaving differently (minuscule differences) . Also if the motors are tuned to run as clean as possible ( which is likely ) due to the EPA , and unless they can control every single variable from humidity , to barometric pressure in the dyno cell than hour to hour and day to day every motor will have different settings to reach emissions optimizations for the day it was put on the dyno. Thats just my theory Based on KTMs engine assembly information and knowing they do dyno tune and inspect every motor before it gets installed into the bike.
"There are different types of dynos. Some build up all necessary connections (fixation, exhaust, fuel, wiring) more or less automatic or semi-automatic, after the engine has been put in, some have to be mounted manually. The circulating cooling water is preheated to smooth out ‘warming up’. The dynos for two strokers logically operates without the oil pressure control task, in addition the test run is used to time exactly the opening of the outlet valve at given revs with help of a spring (which has been pre-adjusted on the line), so that engine characteristics are tuned in the optimal way." source KTM Blog.com
id like to note it does not say the engines are tuned for optimum performance, just they are tuned in the "optimal way" thats like reading the words Natural flavors on the ingredients list on foods. it basically can mean anything and nothing.
I’m totally new to this scene (main hobby being DH MTB), so I’m collecting info. This video was so informative and well presented. Thank you
Seems to be what you are saying is a lack of quality control at the factory. They should all be run up and tested and set the same (not the screw position, but the power)
Each bike should ride exactly like the next one off the line if the proper checks were in place.
Yes the owner can fiddle with it, but at the prices the Team Orange charge for these bikes, you expect them to be right...Maybe even Ready to Race 🤔
Love the vids, I'm 14 and I ride a kx100 but I'm begging my dad for a 150xc-w I can enjoy trail riding more. Keep doing what your doing!
Owen Friedman get a job save up and buy it yourself. Best feeling
ever
@@kylepengelly8718 it probably will, thanks
Hi Owen. My son is only 12 and stands at 5’9. Just 4 months ago he came off a KTM 85SX. I too contemplated putting him on a 150 EXC. After debating a lot and considering his riding style and what terrain we ride I decided to put him straight on the 2020 250 EXC TPI. Best decision ever to bypass the 150. He loves it and really there is no difference in weight. Just to give you a comparison for yourself he is 5’9 and weighs in at 82 kg fully loaded with gear and Camelback. I hope this helps. Trust me you won’t regret going straight to the 250. Have fun.
Don’t beg. Go out and work for it
You ever get a 150 my dude? 😆
Glad I found this. My 21 250xcw seems a bit sluggish off the bottom... almost electric like
I put the red spring in my TPI and it runs awesome!
I was literally just going to email you this question about my 2020 250xc. I have 5 hours on the bike now and feel like it’s alil boggy. Thanks for the info.
I have a 2020 250xc I went two turns out and it woke the bike up no bog at all.
I'd put some more hrs on it before you really start to mess with too much. The break in period can really take a bit longer then you think. At least from my experience with my '19 250 xcw.
xXxIcedaddyxXx yea that’s what I was thinking too. As of now I don’t think there’s going to be much hare scrambles this year but I want to be ready when we can go racing
give it a few more hours.. my 250 EXC TPI woke up after 5 hours or so.. but not perfect yet.
Useful info for someone who knows how a two stroke 250/300 should perform. I'm coming off a KLX250S onto a XC300 and will have my first ride this Sunday. Coming off a gutless dual sport, I have no idea how the XC 300 should feel. I guess I just won't touch mine at all or maybe I'll run into another TPI rider who can try my bike and see how it compares to theirs.
It is rotated to the left or right when you want to add power ?? Thankyou
clockwise = earlier power
counterclockwise = later power
I used to love the red spring in CARB bikes, but TPI it hits in the middle than rather off bottom like it did on carb..
Power valves dont “open” or “close”. The timing of exhaust port is changed in relation to piston position. It simply moves up and down.
Red springs are the go especially for sand , and screwed out flush
Power valve would better be called power delivery valve. On one end you have torque and the other horsepower. Do you want a slow mid range or fast delivery of horsepower or stated another way but the same thing do you want a longer delivery or mid range or quick loss of torque? The yellow valve gives you balanced delivery of torque and horsepower by creating a smooth range of power delivery. Otherwise without the power valve and a big bore exhaust you’d grab the throttle and it would lug and then all of a sudden stand up and wheelie. On the flip side keeping small exhaust port gives more torque to lug you up hills at low speed but when you open it up there high speed is gone. In short. Don’t piss with it and if you do with big swings it’s a matter of preference and likely will have you being beat on the track or in the hills by your buddies.
With Cody Webb going to Sherco I would love to see you review another 250 or 300 of theirs.
From my understanding the reason KTM doesn't recommend adjusting the PV away from factory settings is because the fuel injection system is tuned with the factory setting...if you adjust the PV setting the fuel mixture could be off and cause a lean condition.
PV Power Punch - Product Review - Slavens Racing
"if you adjust the PV setting the fuel mixture could be off and cause a lean condition"???.....comical
@@hoptard Actually, this is true. Several people had bikes that ran like crap in the midrange and it was traced to the powervalve not opening at the specified RPM from the factory.
@@paulschommer5094 yeh....whatever dude
What i want to know is.. do i risk something bad on my bike, tuning the valve?
Bought a new te150i and it just ran like crap. When doing 45 mph it huffed and puffed stuttered with a constant throttle opening. After setting the idle It still wasn't working.
We figured out it could be the powervalve that was willing to open but didn't. But at 45 mph it should be open already.
We found the PV to be almost completely in. We had to wind it out +3 turns to wake the bike up. There seems to be no basic setting at all at the factory. They mark it so it looks as if one shouldn't play with it.
Fuel consumption also was very bad for a tpi. Exhaust was wet. I believe the wound in PV might be responsible for all that since the bike couldn't breath out properly.
I run the green spring for two reasons. I facebooked messaged MR Garvis himself and he only runs the green spring. The green spring is also more trackable, and the power is much more linear.
Garvis
Are you able to send me a screenshot of that conversation? Hard to know when someone is bullshitting on the interweb
@@Figi_Ink I would also like to see
B.S
What's the point of adjusting the valve when your exhaust has been destroyed won't do a thing the 300 stops making power after the strong bottom end with all the tourqe
But the 250 gets stronger with higher
Revs
Look forward to putting this to the test on my 2023 Husky 150
What is the range? Will it just stop if you turn in too far? I am always afraid to muck with that thing.
This video was very helpful. Just one question though. Did you change to any of the other spring colors? I currently have the red spring in mine. It was the first thing I changed when I got it home back in 2019. Not really sure what the other springs are like.
As you know I support your channel. But I have a simple question. Instead of adjusting the newer versions of the TPI bikes, the ones suggested not to move. Why haven't you tried using the other spring rates first? Seeing if that give the desired outcome / without changing the setting from the factory dyno?
How does the bike usually act if you turn the screw out too much? Is it bad for the bike ?
Hi I have a ktm sxf 250cc 2011 model fuel injection when I pull throttle back it dies can u help
how should i know if it’s better or worse. idk how these bikes should feel when i get on the power and trail riding
my exhaust used to catch fire and glow red. totally discolor
winding my valve out cause the bike to stall. and winding it in caused it to rev to half throttle no powerband
ktm powerparts dont sell the spring. could this spring be cooked and gone to stiff
So does screwing it out makes it more jumppier
Would you know if it's OK to make adjustments on the power valve after installing a coober ECU.? Thanks for all the content and your helpful opinions on KTMs. Finally pulled the trigger on a new 300 xc and love it Thanks again dude
I have. 2019 250 xc-w tpi. About 50 hours on it. Running like is plugged up now. Used to run great. I replace crank case pressure sensor. Still running plugged up. What else do you suggest. I need help please.
Did someone tried changing springs? Any problems with durability if the motor?
Jimmy Lewis (runs dirt bike test) says not to adjust the powervalve without addressing ECU tuning as you might cause motor damage to a tpi bike. Any thoughts on this? Jimmy is a pretty knowledgeable guy if you aren't familiar with him
JD Jetting did a bunch of dyno runs on this a couple years back and the amount of change in fuel ratio was very negligible.
@@leroywilliams7210 was this on a fuel injected or carbeureted two stroke?
Adam Dyment JD did dyno tests on TPI and non TPI bikes. He has graphs published of what each 1/4 turn does from closed to open to your power curve and he tested TPI bikes to see if turning it a turn would make them run too lean.
My TPI I had red spring and 5/8 turn out. I also added a JD Tuner as “my ‘19” TPI was lean and lethargic from the day I got it.
Hey mate just bought 300xc and dealer told me not to touch the power valve cause it’s been set on the dyno and tuned .. i made 1 turn out just wanna know if it will stuff my bike up down the track ? Thanks
great info I have a 2019 te300i its spot on little cold blooded but be patient give it a few minutes to warm up ... come ride n nevada on one of my tap out trail tours.
Would have been helpful to state what changes as you screw it in or out rather than stating you bought 19 of these and they all came different 16 times on repeat. You're just a sweepstakes guy trying to hawk orange power valve covers?
Good insight mate. I have 2018 ktm 300, was bit boggy, using heaps of fuel. Didn't like running slow for too long without clearing it out with a good rev. Fouled so many plugs ever ride. Only 50km to a tank if lucky. Changed jets, put suzuki needle in to get rid of mikuni carb stupid weird tapered at end needle. Put powervalve adjustment out too almost flush, 14/49 sprockets. She's an animal now. Beats all my mates 450s in the tracks,dunes,road. Getting just over 150km/hour top speed, but still only about 70-80km range. Mikuni carburetor sux. Wish I had my keihan off last ktm300. Avagud1
I have changed the valve tuning with a manual one and honestly I am not agree when you say set it like you like it and leave it i think you need to adjust at what type of riding you do day by day and that manual valve is top you just turn it by hand with no tools .
There are also other colour springs available for finer tuning. I’ve never bothered myself though.
Ramble and repeat any?
Looking at a 2021 300
Would u say turning the power valve out gives more low end rev, for example hitting/revs hard coming out of corners.
Tuning this cause any issues with the oil to fuel auto mix?
Thanks for the content, as far as "tune it to your preference" -- what exactly does it change as far as the power characteristics? You mentioned not liking how one of them revved out and 2 full turns out resolved that -- so it changes top-end? does it do anything for bottom end? How does modifying it interact using the power map switch?
It's the hit. The further in, the hit will come later and not be as snappy. With the screw flush with the case, the hit will come sooner. You just have to play with it. I keep my Beta 300RR almost flush with the case. You just have to play with it.
@@BarnStangz From the dyno charts I've seen with a little googling it looks like it makes a difference starting somewhere in the 4500 - 5500 range and up from there. So to answer my own question, seems like low-end is unaffected.
Trey Morita it just adjusts when the powerband comes in. The low end isn’t affected
The further out it is, the quicker the power band comes in and further in the later. With it all the way flush the power will come on sooner but because it's a couple hundred rpms lower shouldn't be as violent.
Whats the yellow paint on the screw?
So it isn’t controlled by the ECU then
I’ve seen one of your videos where you say that you use the red spring in all your ktms because it makes the power more linear. Is this also true with tpi bikes or do you leave in the yellow spring and just adjust the screw on the fuel injected models. I have a 250 tpi and was considering red spring. Lineat
Wife just bought me a 2022 300xcw for Christmas! 🤘. But I do have a question. I have had an 06 (vforce 4 reeds and fmf exhaust) forever. Always loved it. Riding them back to back the 06 seems like it's just way more alive. Is that to be expected or is there something I need to check into on the '22?
Yes, back out your power valve screw a turn or two and repeat as desired until your preferred powerband is achieved
@@Stewart7516 I will try this thanks!
What do you think about S3 Heads for hard enduro?
Whew, a lot of words to basically say - ride and tune to preference.
So whats a good way to start out? Turn it out all the way and adjust in or vis-à-vis??
If the bike is too snappy turn it in 1/4 ride it keep adjusting if it’s still to snappy. or not snappy enough turn it out 1/4 then ride it
Kyle do you know if this is a color coated spring in there? Have you been inside these tpi power valves?
TPI bikes come with the Yellow Spring just like the non-TPI, you can still buy the other springs and replace though. TPIs are a bit soft so a Red spring really can help.
Great tip about the power valve bolt. Thanks
Hi Kyle, love the channel, big fan. Soooo, to confirm; screw out (anti clockwise) for a more aggressive power curve, screw in (clockwise) for a mellow power curve? Also have you had any experience with changing the the spring color, ie as per older ktm 2ies?
Basically, Yes, But if you go too far out you will have a similar effect as going in. I like to find a small loop with some undulations and a slight to medium uphill to roll on and off the throttle on, I go OUT 1/2 turn, better or worse If better, another 1/2 turn, not better then back 1/4 better then I leave it and so on. I've found on my 3 17-19 300s I liked 1/2 - 5/8 turn out on all of them, it just makes the power come on a bit earlier which makes it more linear instead of detuned then a hit.
@@leroywilliams7210 is that out from how it came from the factory, or 1/2 turn out from it being in as far as it goes?
@@samuelyeet6006 Most bikes I’ve worked on have ended up 1/2-5/8 turn out from the factory settings.
@@leroywilliams7210 ohh ok, see i couldnt tell if people were getting them and turning the screw all the way in and then counting turns out, or like you said getting them and turning it out
My Son has a ‘19 150 xcw, the manual says do not move the brass adjustment screw. It came with two springs, one is yellow and the other has no color code. We have tried both springs and both seem to hold the power closed for too long. Anyone have any suggestions on whether or not to move the brass adjuster?
I play around and the bike now is working great
How would it be to buy a new dirt bike every month. UA-camrs make a good living. Good for you and your family.
"We don't have TPI because it's better than carburetors." 😂
do you know which spring is inside the 250 tpi 2020 ..or can it be changed ?
Yellow, Yes!
Awesome video thx for the tips😹
Wish I could win a bike butt I dont live in the States
If u mess with the power valve dont u have to adjust the mapping too
My 2020 300 exc is an awesome bike but it hits a wall for a few seconds just as it’s about to hit power band , is this a power valve issue or something else ?
How much is.... in just a touch 1/4 1/2 ?
I didn't notice a dramatic change until 2.5 turns (anticlockwise)
hi - wanted to support you by picking up a DBC World Shirt but they're out of stock
Whats with the weird random filters
Great video Kyle thanks!
Still animal on fast or slow map switch with those adjustments. Avagud1 again mate
PLEASE KYLE CHECK TOKYO OFF ROAD'S VIDEO ON TPI POWER VALVE ADJUSTMENT
Please remake this video
Good to know about that power adjustment tune it to your riding skill. nice 👍
The most skilled riders on earth like Graham Jarvis run the screw all the way in (green spring equivalent). Makes the bike the most toned down and controllable for traction and getting power to the ground. It’s the noobs who turn it all the way out “for the roost”, “the power band” etc. the higher your skill the more you want to turn it in. The opposite of what most people think!
@@apostate4apostate494 two better riders than I ride flush and convinced me to try the same. I adjusted my 250 xcw tpi to flush, whiskey throttled on portions of the 12 mile loop that I usually enjoy, had immediate ridiculous arm pump and whiskey throttled again down a hill. Road back to the trailer and cranked that baby back in! screw that! Literally hahahaha
Thanks , very helpful.
kinda weird editing in this one :D
I think he did it on purpose to give those comments more time to sink in, but I do admit that at first I thought my connection was having issues.
So can you explain what happens when you screw in vs screw out? Screw in for less aggressive power?
In makes powervalve open later out makes it open sooner.
In, Power comes on later and usually more of a "Hit", out and it comes on earlier giving less "hit" and more linear, but giving more power earlier which can be too much and abrupt.
can i get one
So all the way out for fully open 😅
Good job!
What child just discovered the video effects.
Guess you never rode a zuk in the 90s 00s
This is not the correct way to adjust the Power valve on the tpi. You need the xc2 diagnostic tool. Activate Power valve set up which limits the bike to 5000rpm. Then you can adjust the toothed arm on the right hand side with the cover off. That's the standard setting should be done at the factory but isn't. After that's done you can make small adjustments.
Correct
You should get a Apollo dirt bike, and do a review on it.
Well you say it’s “kinda garbage advise” but let’s just think for a second that ktm are setting them up so they all perform equally, the power valve opens and closes the same on each bike, however due to some variables (at ktm that we are not aware of) the brass screw can vary greatly in regards to position when set at the factory……. So if you adjust it half a turn out or half a turn in it’s going to have the same effect on the power valve (naturally minus some variables) regardless of where it was set from factory. So now your logic is nonsense isn’t it. Either it’s nonsense or ktm just sets them up wherever looks about right and it’s really not that big of a deal in which case they are all different from the factory in terms of performance and power curve
Hey can you do a review of a crf 250x or a wr 250
The power valve spec in the Owners Manual is not the same for a 250 and a 300.
2020, 2021 & 2022 300"s all call for 2.3 mm +-0.2 mm distance from the top of the aduster screw out to the surface of the case around the screw.
It is 2.7 mm as I recall for those years of 250"s.
Must compare apples to apples! 300 to 300. 250 to 250l
So your 2 bikes bought on the same day should not have been the same!
You are wrong not KTM.
I have z 2022 300 XC,
You give very wrong advice, in fact you'd better take this video down!
Each bike comes ex-factory with the PV set to start-activate at 5500rpm, you knew?
Only when that is set one can start 'personalizing', a lil more or less.... but it won't be massive bits, maybe a few hundred rpm's.
Oh, be sure to measure the rpm's: open the LHS EV-cover, rev the bike to the point you see it starting to open, then check what revs it does... and adjust from there! Simple really, and LOADS better than your "turn it in or out until you're happy".
if I won I'm gonna choose the beta bike.
ktm is a rich mans bike