Thank you for the detailed explaination how the mechanism works and how to keep it going as well as including part numbers and upgrades. Now I feel much more confident about adjusting my D7 T3 clutch drive.
Gotta hand to you and your dad. Watching your new and old videos have made you quite the educator. When it comes to the Cat D2's one would say your subject matter qualified. Great content can't wait for the next video
I still say Cat owes you BIG TIME for the most excellent instructional videos ever. Even I could put one of those together eventually! Maybe. Just waiting to hear it pop and smoke again! Good old 6's. Thanks, Buddy! Blessing 2 U up there!
I do enjoy watching you work on these different engines. I don't always understand what you're doing but that doesn't detract from the pleasure of watching a craftsman at work. Thanks for sharing. John
I'm amazed..So many thick rugged parts even the housing looks like 3/8" walls. All the manufacturing it took to produce just this starter clutch kept Ma and Pa on the job..Then you factor the rest of the Starter, its just hard to believe we lost our manufacturing base. You know this clutch is quality and well thought-out. I never would have thought this was under the hood LOL, Thank You Squatch253
I love the ease with which you explain exactly what you are doing - my Dad was/is an awesome mechanic with trucks, locomotives, cranes, and almost any piece of farm or logging equipment. This is an excellent video.
I realize you know your Cat equipment, however that bearing is probably $20.00 cheaper at your local bearing house. Also I am a firm believer in rubber seal bearings when it comes to equipment that works in harsh environments. Great job again. Could you imagine designing that starting motor drive system. ??? Those guys were ahead of their time. Thank goodness for electric start motors. Very enjoyable trip through your starter.......
Just bought a d130000 cat power unit and Frick "0" Sawmill.. discovered that the pony had some water in the base cover., so it has to come off for repair {hopefully) . Wondered if the pony is the same, and same procedure to remove. You made it look easy! If you could point me in a good direction as to parts for the pony i would greatly appreciate it. Got a lot to learn. power unit is approx. 1940 . Thanks. Tim in NC.
Thanks for explaining that little bit 👍I have been thinking about joining the club as membership. But don't know which 1 would b close to Tennessee? Ihave recently acquired 3 d4 s as 2 restoring 1 as working hard. 1 5t and 2 7u I used videos for reference alot and always wondered what acmoc had to offer . Thanks . Please keep doing videos for viewers really enjoy them 👍👍👍
No felt or anything in the oil cup to let the oil slowly wick into there? Guessing its not needed because its only spinning when starting the diesel engine? just a couple drips of oil before firing it up?
sidecar147 Equipment Trader also has parts listings. It's a real good place to Source parts. Their site is not that easy to navigate but keep searching, and you will find the listings. Everything from lawn mowers to Harley Davidsons. It's there but most folks don't know about it. Good luck with that D-4. The Pacific Northwest has NC machinery Caterpillar dealerships. I've ordered crank bearings for a D-2 Pony motor. They're in stock.
@3:45 the oiling cup.. just curious if you used conventional lead or lead free solder.. which is really not nearly as strong as Alpha Fry AM53982 Lead-Free Silver Solder and Flux .. i use that to do many non electrical repairs.. many hardware stores stock this exact part number.. the others of that brand don't the strength. including metal eye glass frames. that is how strong it is.. its also really low melting point.. so you could almost use a hot air gun to use it. @3:55 the yoke.. there is a big groove on the inside.. is that to be filled with oil.. or did the parts manual miss the Felt wicking that should have been in there to retain the oil and release it slowly. just some forward thinking.
I generally enjoy your use of 'instructor-style' English.( Were you military trained?) But 'fixture' is a noun. You fix something in a lathe chuck and it becomes a (temporary) fixture. Just wanted gift---no, give, you that critique.
Thank you for making these videos and keeping this old equipment going! I have a 112 Cat grader and a D7 3u dozer both with pony motors, so I really enjoy these videos. Do you have more information on the gearbox paint that you used?
Squatch253 Electric motor spray varnish winding sealer. Basicly the same stuff at half the price. It seals up cast-iron real well and oil will not penetrate it. Just thought I'd drop my 2 cents in if it helps anyone. It's also oxide red and creates very slippery surfaces for oil run off.
Thank you for the detailed explaination how the mechanism works and how to keep it going as well as including part numbers and upgrades. Now I feel much more confident about adjusting my D7 T3 clutch drive.
Gotta hand to you and your dad. Watching your new and old videos have made you quite the educator. When it comes to the Cat D2's one would say your subject matter qualified. Great content can't wait for the next video
I still say Cat owes you BIG TIME for the most excellent instructional videos ever. Even I could put one of those together eventually! Maybe. Just waiting to hear it pop and smoke again! Good old 6's. Thanks, Buddy! Blessing 2 U up there!
It'll be SWEET I have NO doubt and I'll be right here!
Great video!! The old iron is very interesting. Thank you for taking the time to do a video.
I do enjoy watching you work on these different engines. I don't always understand what you're doing but that doesn't detract from the pleasure of watching a craftsman at work. Thanks for sharing. John
You are a great teacher! I learn something new on every video. Thank you sir John
I'm amazed..So many thick rugged parts even the housing looks like 3/8" walls. All the manufacturing it took to produce just this starter clutch kept Ma and Pa on the job..Then you factor the rest of the Starter, its just hard to believe we lost our manufacturing base. You know this clutch is quality and well thought-out. I never would have thought this was under the hood LOL, Thank You Squatch253
I REALLY did enjoy watching your video! It's always great to see someone who knows what they're doing and do it right.👍👍👍
I love the ease with which you explain exactly what you are doing - my Dad was/is an awesome mechanic with trucks, locomotives, cranes, and almost any piece of farm or logging equipment. This is an excellent video.
Nice work. I wish other people would do as clear a job on their own videos as you do. Thanks for sharing.
Little crawler will last another 100 years! Great reconditioning
Minnesota proud!
Another great video, with great explanations! Thank you!
Excellent video, really enjoyed it. Nice to see a craftsman at work.
I realize you know your Cat equipment, however that bearing is probably $20.00 cheaper at your local bearing house. Also I am a firm believer in rubber seal bearings when it comes to equipment that works in harsh environments.
Great job again. Could you imagine designing that starting motor drive system. ??? Those guys were ahead of their time. Thank goodness for electric start motors. Very enjoyable trip through your starter.......
Somebody find me an RD6 with a bad bearing in the starter clutch, I'm ready to have at it.
Maybe not so fast. Great video thank you Squatch.
good video , my great great grandfather would be proud of you ,or his partner mr. wiensteen
Interesting to watch, as always.
Thanks.
Nice one Squatch, always enjoy your videos! 👍
That is very nice to see your re-assembly video, excellent thank you
If 15177 have watched, it's a scandal that they can't give a thumbs up for the fantastic free entertainment. These free riders should get a life.
Great Job! Enjoy your videos. God Bless.
very good and great work !!
Just bought a d130000 cat power unit and Frick "0" Sawmill.. discovered that the pony had some water in the base cover., so it has to come off for repair {hopefully) . Wondered if the pony is the same, and same procedure to remove. You made it look easy! If you could point me in a good direction as to parts for the pony i would greatly appreciate it. Got a lot to learn. power unit is approx. 1940 . Thanks. Tim in NC.
great work buddy . you do such a good job ! if i could keep up with my fixing to mach your great how two's
Very well explained.
Nice work.
Damn , You are good ! Who taught you all that info on Cat components ?
You are Mechanics mechanic/ engineer !
Thanks for explaining that little bit 👍I have been thinking about joining the club as membership. But don't know which 1 would b close to Tennessee? Ihave recently acquired 3 d4 s as 2 restoring 1 as working hard. 1 5t and 2 7u I used videos for reference alot and always wondered what acmoc had to offer . Thanks . Please keep doing videos for viewers really enjoy them 👍👍👍
No felt or anything in the oil cup to let the oil slowly wick into there? Guessing its not needed because its only spinning when starting the diesel engine? just a couple drips of oil before firing it up?
Enjoyed.....thanks
Squatch253, why do you paint the inside of your castings? I have seen many threads that say it is not necessary. Wondered what your thought6 are!
hey good tutorial......thanks.......where do you get your parts ?..i have a D4 .7U...im working on...im looking for Liner kits.....
thanks for the info....im up here in Nova Scotia Canada,,,,,ive got a call in to the the cat dealer here ....is there after market parts avalible /?
sidecar147
Equipment Trader also has parts listings. It's a real good place to Source parts. Their site is not that easy to navigate but keep searching, and you will find the listings. Everything from lawn mowers to Harley Davidsons. It's there but most folks don't know about it. Good luck with that D-4. The Pacific Northwest has NC machinery Caterpillar dealerships. I've ordered crank bearings for a D-2 Pony motor. They're in stock.
@3:45 the oiling cup.. just curious if you used conventional lead or lead free solder.. which is really not nearly as strong as Alpha Fry AM53982 Lead-Free Silver Solder and Flux .. i use that to do many non electrical repairs.. many hardware stores stock this exact part number.. the others of that brand don't the strength. including metal eye glass frames. that is how strong it is.. its also really low melting point.. so you could almost use a hot air gun to use it. @3:55 the yoke.. there is a big groove on the inside.. is that to be filled with oil.. or did the parts manual miss the Felt wicking that should have been in there to retain the oil and release it slowly. just some forward thinking.
so that bearing get lubed from the oil cup?
Effective thread length is equal to its diameter
Foldover locks!
Could you have installed the bearing if you had put it in the freezer for a short period first?
nice work. Did you work for a CAT dealer at some point? Sounds as if you have lots of knowledge and experience ..
WHERE'S THE AUTOPATROL videos????
I generally enjoy your use of 'instructor-style' English.( Were you military trained?) But 'fixture' is a noun. You fix something in a lathe chuck and it becomes a (temporary) fixture. Just wanted gift---no, give, you that critique.
Т-130
Lol slide the shaft down through the rear.
Thank you for making these videos and keeping this old equipment going! I have a 112 Cat grader and a D7 3u dozer both with pony motors, so I really enjoy these videos. Do you have more information on the gearbox paint that you used?
Squatch253
Electric motor spray varnish winding sealer. Basicly the same stuff at half the price. It seals up cast-iron real well and oil will not penetrate it.
Just thought I'd drop my 2 cents in if it helps anyone.
It's also oxide red and creates very slippery surfaces for oil run off.