5 Suspension Mods That Can Ruin Your Car
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- Опубліковано 4 чер 2024
- 5 Suspension Mods That Can Ruin Your Car.
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Lowering springs, lowering clamps, wheel spacers, camber kits, anti-roll bars, coilovers, the works. Suspensions very frequently modified but very challenging to setup in a performance enhancing manor. Lowering clamps lower your car without changing the spring rate, lowering springs won't match the damping rate of your shocks, camber should only be slightly negative, wheel spacers can decrease braking stability, and roll bars should be used to fine tune steering dynamics.
Soft Vs Stiff Springs - • What's The Best Suspen...
Wheel Spacers - • Wheel Spacers & Adapte...
Anti-Roll Bar Tuning - • How Anti-Roll Bars Wor...
Negative Camber Tuning - • Too Much Negative Camb...
Subaru BRZ Spacers - • Benefit Of Wheel Space...
Scrub Radius - • Scrub Radius - Suspens...
Camber Kit - • Camber Kit - Explained
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I can't believe someone would look at those spring clamps and think "Yeah, that's a great idea. I want that on my car."
just as surprised as well, but even more to my dismay, there are "how to" videos posted here..
whatever happened to just cutting the motherfuckers? kids who dont have tools should stay away from critical handling modifications.
save some money, buy tools, research and do it proper.
Springs can be cut properly. Many hot rod springs are designed to be cut to your engine application. With a friction disk, and proper calculations (along with spring ends that wont end up a different pattern when cut) You're in the clear. Start by cutting half of what you think you need to cut, and adjust from there. There are a lot of wrong ways to do it, like torching the spring while it's still in the vehicle (and a lot of small inner city shops do this) but the right way is too labor intensive, so doing it right at the least cost of time means buying premade springs.
Yeah, my 71 Pinto has a very limited selection on suspension parts. So your best bet is OEM springs and cutting them, and putting lowering blocks in the rear, it is seriously the only option on some cars.
Dave Starr when I was younger I went to Home Depot and got clamps for my jettas suspension lol
A lot of people commenting that the spring clamps are for removing the springs - this is not the case, the clamps shown (I'm as surprised as you are) are to remain in the car, to lower it. They're labeled as "lowering clamps" on the packaging. Spring compressors are much larger, so you can clamp more than just one spiral of springs. As a side note, most auto parts stores will let you rent springs compressors for free, if you're ever in need. Have a great day everyone!
+Engineering Explained I saw them on a car that came into my friend's shop. The springs were warped and probably unsafe. Unfortunately the car was a 320i, I wanted to take it out back and put it out of its misery. I always wonder how many people drive old BMW's that have been "modded" and assume that that's just how old cars drive; crappy.
+Eric Leippe I got major Deja Vu from this comment
+Engineering Explained Aye, get my girlfriend pregnant so we can have a smart baby.
+P OConnor necessary if you want to do any serious off roading IMO (plus looks cool). You're going to need more ground clearance, which requires bigger tires, which requires a lift.
+Jason Wingate 156? not with that vocabulary.
Just ordered those spring clamps. Thanks for the tip
@Anj B I can't afford more than 1 set of these awesome spring clamps. I will get for the other 3 wheels later... thanks, E/E!
couple of zip ties will do the same job
@@theguyinthehelmet1875
Had the same problem, but sprung for two anyway. I'll do the other side of the car when I can scrape the cash together.
LMFAO!!!
😂😂😂
A couple comments, as an engineer myself, who has a significant vehicle dynamics knowledge.
1. Lowering springs developed for performance and not just looks, matched with an appropriate damper, such as a Koni sport, Bilstein, etc. can be used daily without much sacrifice. In many cases the car will have an improved ride overall (better control), with a slight increase in initial impact harshness.
2. Yes, increasing roll and pitch stiffness via springs can reduce mechanical grip, although load transfer remains identical if the ride height (and thus CG to roll center relationship) is unchanged. The caveat is that increasing roll stiffness, in particular, will often improve geometric control enough to where you do not lose, and can often gain mechanical grip by maintaining contact patch and reducing roll center migration. It also has handling benefits in that the car will respond more quickly to inputs. That said, you do want the softest springs you can get away with that maintain acceptable transitional handling in order to reduce sensitivity to inputs and improve compliance for imperfect surfaces, both of which improve usable grip and make the car easier to drive.
3. Wheel spacers with their own studs function identically to a wider offset wheel if they are hubcentric type. If they are not hubcentric, like the one you showed in this video, then yes, they put significant load to the studs in a way they were not designed to take. Hubcentric spacers transfer radial load to the hub bore with their own hub bore, and provide another external hub bore for the wheel to mount to, such that the studs are providing clamping force and not dealing with significant radial load, just as they did stock.
4. Camber kits can be an excellent choice if you have coilovers (many include them in their top mounts), or a matched set of performance-minded lowering springs and matched dampers. They allow for adjustment beyond what the factory tolerances will in order to get back to appropriate road-use settings (~1-1.5 deg negative).
5. Anti-roll bars can be an extremely effective tuning aid provided you do not go overboard. If you autocross, the Street class allows for one roll bar change. For most cars, due to their on-purpose, understeer-biased factory suspension tuning, a stiffer rear bar improves handling balance significantly without a big effect on ride quality, provided you do not go super stiff. You always want to exercise caution on anti-roll bar stiffness on the driven axles because you do not want to limit/remove load on the inside wheel. This is bad for any differential type, but particularly open diffs or torsen diffs.
One trick I heard of for stock class autocross with front wheel drive cars was to remove the front sway bar to reduce understeer characteristics since stock class rules allows replacement of the front bar but not the rear.
I also ran as much camber as I could in stock class to improve traction under heavy cornering.
Lots of negative camber is fine if the tires, springs and dampers can cope in cornering. Too much will definitely reduce your straight-line acceleration and braking grip. If you need a lot of camber, best to dial in more caster to preserve the most effective tire contact patch.
I'm saving this.
Yea a lot of people just do it wrong. If you want to improve performance, fit SMALLER wheels and lower the car. That will improve acceleration (due to smaller/lighter wheels) and lower the center of gravity. Then use spacers to lower it further.
Tj Semeniuk because idiots with short attention spans. They don’t care for the intellectual explanation they just laugh and giggle at ricer jokes.
I ordered lowering springs, opened youtube, and this was the first video reccomended to me
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@str8jaz same here LOL...exactly what happened with me
Me2 :D. I got specific ones for a CX-5 made by Cork. They are dedicated to mazda so im hoping for the best :D
@@3therspark63for the mazda 3 cork sport went to low and i couldn’t get in alignment, so i went with eibach and they definitely helped but made ride quality different
This guy is this type of person who reads the entire cereal box before eating it
I do that.
you must be the type of guy who gets surgery before finding out what its for
you don't?
🤣
You probably shouldn't eat the box even after reading it, though.
This is pretty good stuff. In the racing world, it's all about combinations of springs versus sway bars. The Camaros we used to race with Pratt and Miller would run VERY soft springs (whatever number you're thinking, take 300lbs out of it) and VERY still sway bars. The idea was to control and balance the body mid-corner but allow for lots of mechanical grip under braking and acceleration. Won us a championship, and was a blast to drive. Felt like a really fast school bus.
"You can't just change your suspension geometry!"
"Haha cosmetic mods go brrrrrr"
I'm a strong independent Black suspension who don't need no sway bar
suspension lives matter !!
+Top Kek lmao
+Top Kek This is just too damn good...
What episode of ZP is your channel icon from?
+Roger Toledo You do you Roger!
Dude you need to be a college professor. This channel is a class I would pay to take, no joke
Same
agreed
True
+Fcreveryoung He probably makes more doing this than he would if he was a professor teaching this course.
+CockatooDude something around $5000k per 100.000 views ;)
Pfft, spring clamps.
Just cut the springs in half with an angle grinder like a real man.
😂😂😂😂😂
Who needs springs, remove them and ride on the bump stops.
Power tools, YEAH!!!!
Gran turismo should reach out to you to make optional video explanations for each setting they let you tweak, I think it would be an awesome fit.
yeah this would be a perfect addition to the game since it wants to be more than just a game.
this is the most anti-ricer video ive ever watched.
+lshssprings It being anti-ricer is purely coincidental. It's not his fault the top five worst suspension mods are loved by ricers who sacrifice function in favor of form.
+Caples25B Not sure how they are the top 5 worst ones when ANYONE that actually races a car does most of these mods...
+Brian Tolliver (HiCapMag) People who race cars that weren't meant to be raced for the most part you mean.
He simply describes what not to do to your daily car. Basically, doing something because others do is silly. If you want to modify original suspension, then do your math or ask someone who knows what he is doing. You should note that racer cars are usually build to perform in quite narrow circumstances, high forces and usually flat road. For daily car you really need suspension that will handle properly both on good roads and bumpy ones. Have you ever seen WRC car with big negative?
Makis Equinox No such thing as a car that's not meant to be raced.
That first one had me laughing. i can't believe that is for real!
+TheOfficialNeumann Indeed, pretty wild!
Yeah that's first time ever hearing about that.
+TheOfficialNeumann Wouldn't those be used to compress and remove springs?
+Maturkus that's what they are actually used for...
Sadly,(embarrassingly) I knew of these. I used to sell car parts. One weekend I decided to give this a try. Hey, it's difficult to get anything aftermarket for a Mazda 626. I made it through one side then thought to myself "self! What if one of these bolts fails when I'm on the highway! Ya, took em off.
Good work as usual +engineering explained.
all car enthusiasts have a percentage of rice in them wether u like it or not😂😂😂
starz facts lol
Nope
I like everything stock
@@NFLYoungBoy223 There is a lot of rice in a lot of stock cars
By changing out my stock springs for Eibach 1" drop springs & Koni Struts, I have seen no negative tire wear or handling issues. My car handles much better everywhere, under all conditions. I did get a full alignment from one of the few suspension shops on town that specializes in lowered suspensions & to be fair, I do have a much stiffer ride.
What about using hockey puck with a hole drilled in the middle as a spring
Okay haggard. lol
+Chris Mathy BMC Mini?
Shit's Mint Bro!
+Chris Mathy Cinder blocks.. much cheaper.
Dan hooked us up with this turbo setup look at his pie cuts we just need to make a flange with the harbor freight welder and she'll be mint
Lowering springs + Spacers = $300
Coilovers + Upper control arms + Wheels with correct offset = $2500
I guess we're staying stock
01anon17 upgrade your shocks to match your springs,1000$ you’re set
What kind of cheap parts are you buying where you get all that for 2500? It's going to cost almost that much just for wheels and tires and good coil overs are 4 figures as well.
You don't require upper control arms or different offset wheels to be able to use height adjustsble coil overs. They are a standalone item.
@@gsdnaturel But with that you could get coils?
I'm eyeballing a set of coilovers that are under 300 bucks.
I figure something like that is okay for low and slow :/
My car doesn't cost as much as 'real' coilovers
Just want to say that you make stock seem so much better, but at the same time sadden all the mod ideas I had. I enjoy your videos and hope you keep educating us on one of the most important things to us. If done incorrectly, the car is a deadly uncontrollable weapon. Thank you
I love your videos man. I've read suspension engineering books that didn't cover anti-roll bars. That's new information for me and great to know!
I installed lowering springs into my car to improve the look of it with the wheels that were installed. I could care less if I slid into a flooded quarry thus entombing myself in the car at the bottom. I'll look good doing it. That's all that matters.
Hold On! You forgot a big one for the list! Super low profile tires in general, and especially ones that are stretched to fit a rim that is to wide! The side wall of a tire is a super important aspect in relation to suspension performance and cornering grip.
I'm so tired of people thinking low profile tires are better. I'm even more tired of people in the Midwest thinking this, we drive on highways with terrible potholes and low profile tires just break on them
@@NoorquackerInd - I totally agree. Engineering Explained demonstrated that well in his first road trip with his Tesla 3 Performance. Destroyed two wheels and tires on the first big pothole and replaced the wheels with a custom set (made for Tesla 3) with meatier rubber. Still looked thin to me.
I'm definitely in the bigger rubber camp.
The ricers(hellaflush) kids must hate this guy.
8 out of 10 of those ricemobiles aren't actually drivable anyway.The way they bounce doun the street, have to corner excessively wide, and you have to wait for them to try and sneak their way into a driveway. It wouldn't be so bad if they just did the modifications right, but most are young guys that can't afford it so they get the look they want at the expense of their car and our safety.
But you can get "hellaflush" fitment by doing it correctly. Go look at fitment industries channel
The 'stancers' kiddies with their 10*+ of negative camber, even MORE so!
ricer and hella flush are way different..
Hella flush ain't rice there bronuts.
Great info as always and "explained" well. Thank you and keep up the great work!
But bro, you just don't understand #StanceNation and living the JDM LYFE.
+Unbearable Pain #StanceNation is the new rice,....
in a nutshell: breaking your car by driving through humps and slopes at low speed.
I didn't think it could have gotten worse until I learned about Oni Camber. Which has the wheels in massive negative camber.
I don't think you understand that all JDM means is "Japanese domestic market" 😂
+Luke Chrzanowski USDM for life....unless I pay off the car note first.
I love how informative your videos are, backed up by science and math. def what UA-cam needs
Great videos! Would love to see similar stuff for motorcycles if you are so inclined. Simplified suspension tutorials are always cool.
I enjoy your lessons. Very informative and to the point!
You should do a "ultimate" series where you give tips on building the "Ultimate" FWD/RWD/AWD/Macpherson/Double-A suspensions. I know this isn't a blanket application BUT I think that the formulas should be very similar depending on application. Just figured I'd toss that out there. Nice shirt btw! :D
^ this
I've seen those spring clamp things to remove a spring without having a real spring compressor. That's all I thought they were for.
Old lowering trick,I'm suprised,the host never saw them before,it was a sixties and 70s thing,torching springs is still used today,it works but lowering arms,and airbag mods work better,than cranking coil overs
My TCP coil overs on the front of my 68 Mustang have made a huge difference and so far is the best performance upgrade i have done. This is one of my favorite channels!
Hi I'm driving honda fit gk3 2019 and I've installed front and rear strut bar and rigid coller and coils coming soon. Will that be enough for daily driving?
Camber correction kits are OK for coil-over lowered cars and helps retain correct suspension geometry. Having hubcentric spacers is the same as having lower offset wheels. That's why you can get them as an option even from Porsche on GT3s. This is my experience from owning both road cars and race cars.
exactly
I don't like wheel spacers. Too many loose pieces and most people don't replace their studs/bolts with longer ones so you get less bite. Also everything he said about the change in dynamic toe, spring effectiveness because of the longer lever of the hub now, bearing wear, etc... was all relevent. I say if you're spending the money for new wheels, why not just buy the proper offset?
+ssdwellah So tell me how lower offset wheels change this at all? The leverage point will still be changed and it will have the same effective offset as spacers. Hubcentric spacers don't move and their own threads so clamping power isn't a problem.
+Nick Pourchot They change some of it. For example you have one solid piece and the correct length studs/bolts. You underestimate the retained stability of having a solid piece of metal there instead of a spacer. Even though you don't see it move, it stretches and shifts as it's sideloaded during turns. Plus you can dial the offset more precisely than just stacking one or more fixed size plates onto an existing hub. Some people even use conversion type spacers that covert from one bolt pattern to another (e.g. from 4 to 5 or one bolt spacing to another). Especially in those cases it's a total hack job in my opinion and unsafe, but do what you want. If I wanted new wheels, I'd get the right offset. If I wanted a different bolt pattern, I would press or bolt on the right hub (depends on hub/knuckle design of car). YMMV. Take the "cheap" route if you want.
+ssdwellah Spacers generally hold up well but it depends on the type. Unbalanced and floating spacers are inherently unsafe but well designed ones can hold up to the loads of high HP launches and track use. You also have to consider some big brake kids need spacers to fit existing wheels, buying new wheels just to fit wouldn't be logical for how much you're already spending.
If you're getting lowering springs, get a proper shock/strut(adjustable performance shocks will let you fine-tune the damper to the spring rate) to match it, and get the camber kit to correct the camber. That's the proper way to lower your car using the lowering springs. Foregoing the shocks/struts and the camber kit will make your car unsafe to drive. (I speak from experience, especially when you go over something at freeway speeds). Also, don't be hesitant to splurge on a set of new polyurethane bushings to replace the stock rubber ones.
I agree with this statement. What was NOT mentioned as an option was using shocks and struts designed to work with lowering springs. Some of us do not want to sacrifice all of our comfort nor do we need to have ultimate performance for the track when we are daily driving our cars. Still.. love ENGINEERING EXPLAINED! One of my favs UA-cam channels!
That was my first thought as well. Getting a set of shocks/struts that are built purely for your application, as many will actually sell them in a kit at usually half or better the price of cheap coilovers.
And secondly, if you have been in a car with coilovers, they can be quite harsh. I love the feeling but most wont. I can guarantee putting coilovers would keep my family from wanting to ride in my mustang for any kind of haul.
Agreed and put in a good bump steer kit to realign the tie rods. Then get an alignment. Car will ride and handle great. Just needs to be done correctly.
I’ve seen wheel camber at like 45° where half the tire wasn’t even in contact with the road anymore. Truly horrifying.
Let me guess... a civic? They love that....😂
Hey @EngineeringExplained I have a stock subaru crosstrek, I'm planning on taking it around a road course, what is something that I could install (suspension wise) to help with reducing body roll a little as well as increasing grip?
I was thinking possibly coil overs and stiffer sway bars. would that decrease my performance (in theory)? And do you have any better suggestions?
637 ricers didn't like this video
clever
hahaha!
+Robert "dying breed"
xxxREVOLVERxxx and youtube mechanics love it
xxxREVOLVERxxx now 1k ricers didn't like the video lmfao
Taking all of this new knowledge and applying it to my set ups in DiRT Rally.
Hey! I love your videos and how well you actually explain the reasons for various things. I've seen several videos of what not to do to your car, but I was wondering what you would suggest to get the best performance out of something like... Oh let me pull a random example... A 2016 Ford Fiesta S (base model).
While I have some knowledge of the issues with alignment you take it to a new level. Thanks for the YOU TUBE and I am looking forward to viewing more of your stuff.
But my street car is a race car
CRAZY HORSEPOWER
seems like you have negative candor
Too much camber is actually a bad thing (looks over at car throttle tuner list and hella flush community
djhero0071 lmaooo
My dad has a backhoe with some messed up steering bushings. It has at least 10 degrees of camber.
when I had my Z, i did Swift springs paired wtih KONI Yellow adjustable shocks, and a strut tower bar. Handled like a cat on carpet
UHhhh... I... i... Is that a good thing?
@@Shadow1986 yea
Hi, I want to decrease the distance my rear coil springs travel when I load up my 4WD CALDDINA WAGON ST195. What stiffer spings can I use, or should I use ones wth more coils? presently the coils kiss when I go over bumps with load.
Very informative, thanks for all the work and time you put into this site!
Just buzz killed four of my planned mods. I don't think I could have a beer with this guy.
+queefreak I love beer, we'd get along just fine. :)
+Engineering Explained what is a good cheap suspension common brand that i can get that can lower my car like by 2 or 3 inches
+Serjio Blockus hacksaw
noob. just hit it with a torch - don't even have to disassemble anything.
He said if you do it improperly, you can still run these but if you do them wrong you can do damage to your car
I had stock heated springs on dodge charger sxt 2019 since late October and just switched to h&r performance lowering springs couple days ago after they got switched noticed the springs were all uneven and rear wheel tire on driver side has almost no traction inside of it I am getting new wheels and tires in a week or two then get all alignment and I've noticed yesterday that hearing a quiet noise while driving sometimes sounds like its coming around the tires. What is your option on what I did to my dodge charger sxt 2019? Should it be all good after switching all tires and wheels and do alignment?
Great explanation on how anti roll bars can worsen handling. Thanks for posting.
Was really waiting for him to say "you're gonna have a bad time" XD
Joshua Hannah lmfao😂
mercedes benz ABC suspension is pretty amazing. No sway bar and adjusts with hydraulic fluid... but expensive as hell to maintain
Recently bought a Subaru Exiga. I saw your videos on suspension and spring rates. I was planning to upgrade to Bilstein B6 but would the stock springs be a problem for spring rates? I don't want to go for b14 since it may be too stiff for road use?!?!
I really appreciate this video because I was planning on getting wheel spacers and with that info, now I don't think so. Thanks man.
ricers, learn here
+PJ Sinohin pity i can only give you one vote up.
I've had Tein springs and I'm happy with it . my alignment is on point . The drop isn't more than 1.5 inchs
very useful information.
I have ND miata club. I am considering front and rear swaybars.
I don't track my car but I do frequent spirited canyon driving.
I do notice bodyroll in my car.
Would I be better off not having swaybars?
Please do more video on this subject... lifting, lowering, suspension geometry, tire adhesion...
"and uh, this is crazy for SEVERAL reasons" hahaha. gotta love this.
Not gonna lie, used the spring clamps for 3 years. I trimmed the bolts and had no problems. Didn't even blow the struts but still should have done it the right way lol
+Iam Sam yes they are janky. They work but definitely not the right way to lower a car.
***** No they are not. These ones are meant to stay on. The one I have you can also turn around to lift your car.
i use them also no problem for 4 year .... even engineers get stuff wrong at time .... spring rates still remain in factory spec for shocks... clamps basically has same effect as a loaded vehicle... more weight the lower the car sit ...shocks travel is reduce however still within factory range... buying the wrong lowering spring could cause more damage to fatcory shocks than clamping
Andrew Wilson It's not at all the same as the effect of a loaded vehicle. You're only loading a tiny portion of the spring, the rest is left completely unloaded. This makes your spring rates too low for the ride height and reduces your suspension travel. There's nothing "factory spec" or "factory range" about it.
? he even said in the video that those clamps don't affect the spring rate. Once a spring is made, the only thing that's going to change it's rate is removing coils. Coincidentally, this is exactly how progressive springs work, coils at the top or bottom start to stack as the spring compresses.
Nice job, and congratulation to EE for all that interesting footage! One of my car is equipped with front and rear bars upgraded, balance of the car is quite similar to the original setup. You're right concerning feedback to the other wheel, as I noticed that when my left rear wheel takes a hard bump, the other one seems to take off... One question anyway, concerns the anti-roll bars. What do you mean by "increases rate that slip angle increases"?
These videos are amazing. You, sir, just got yourself another subscriber.
When I first bought my 280zx... it has spring locks.... stance bro.. great find
This has gotta be one of the best channels on UA-cam.
Hey i have an audi a4 with a sport package. My garage installed brand new shocks bilstein b8 shocks that were designed for an adjusted suspension. Did they do the right choice?
I have modified my Tacoma with stiffer longer coils in front and a stiffer adjustable shock and wheel spacers to avoid rub on uca. With a lot of extra weight on front from plate bumper and winch I have about 1.5" lift on lowest shock setting essentially no additional spring preload. What do you think about removing the stabilizer bar? Also how is the spacer different than buying a wheel with the extra 1.25" offset? Just as bad for bearings, cvs, shocks, etc right?BTW under heavy breaking I have definitely noticed destabilized handling the 32" MT tires are extra heavy and the braking is compromised. Thanks for all the fantastic info.
How about switching out the spring for a hockey puck? Cheap stance yo
+Frank Magana hahaha that would be great!
+bradley Jacklin Haha check out the old haggard garage lexus hockey puck build then
amen.keep up your excelent videos.much love from aldinga beach australia,ox
I have a question i hope you'll answer i have a crosstrek and when loaded the rear sags. king springs makes stiffer spring that i can swap out the stock ones, would that be a bad thing to do? what would be my best solution?
I have a 2009 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Special Edition. It has a serious tendency to understeer. Should I increase the rear sway bar? Or should I keep it stock? (Planning on putting on Raceland Classic Coilovers Anyway)
wouldnt pretty much all of the cons you listed for wheel spacers(not including the thread engagement) still occur if you just bought a wider wheel with a lower offset?? ...
+funkaydonkey Exactly.
+funkaydonkey If you're going to buy wheels, you just buy them at the correct width and offset, negating the need for a spacer.
That is what he said. Lets say you can only fit 5in of back spacing because the shock tower is 5 inches from the mounting surface. On a 7 in wide rim you end up with around a 40mm offset. But with a 9in wide rim you will have a 15mm offset. The center of the tire has moved out by 1 in inducing all the problems sir engineer-a-lot mentioned.
+WorkInProgressK Right you are. I just realised I misread the question.
You would have roughly the same amount of load on the bearing when cornering, but on a straight, more of the load is going to be on the inside of the wheel. So it'll still be more wear on the bearing, just not as much as a wheel that has been spaced out.
My understanding is that spacers increase shear stress on the bolts and hub bearings, which is why they're considered dangerous; they increase the chances of popping the bolts and causing your tire to fall off. However, if you install rims that have a greater offset, your bolts are going to be ok, but assuming my math is correct, the bearings will still suffer given that the centroid of the wheel is still farther out from the hub and after solving for moment=(F)(d), it increases due to distance. Am I right?
This was the most informational and easily understood video regarding these Mods.. 👍👍👍
+Chris brewington happy to hear it, thanks for watching!!
Excellent job !! Yes suspension travel is a good thing. far too many knuckle heads with way too much negative camber.
I went with lowering springs on my mazdaspeed 3 mostly because of budget constraints, couldn't afford coil overs. I went with springs with a modest drop if 3/4 inch in front and 1/2 inch in rear and they're only 5 percent stiffer. I also swapped out the struts with ones that are supposedly designed for lowering springs and put a bigger roll bar in the rear. The car for the most part still drives like it's stock, it's a little stiffer , gotta watch out going over steep inclines and I have more lift off over steer. No adverse camber wear that I've seen yet so I'm pretty happy how it came out
aren't spring clamps for removing coil springs. I have used something like that in my autos class
+Coby Boeder Yes, there's a different kind for compressing the spring. These, I suppose, could be used for that, though they don't have a very wide range like the ones specifically designed for it. These, according to the packaging, are purely for lowering the vehicle.
True, but ricers have started driving with them to lower their springs for some reason😑
+Engineering Explained wow, thanks for the speedy reply. my autos class in at CHS in Corvallis. I heard you say in a video that you live in Oregon. it's the only autos program left in the state.
Actually, they are sold as "spring lowering clamps"
+Coby Boeder not true
I have been running 1.75" lowering springs on my 2002 maxima for 7 years and have put a little over 100,000 miles on it with no issue. no tire wear issues or blown out struts..
I have a 2007 Nissan Murano with over 207,000 miles and I drive it like a TrackHawk.
@@NFLYoungBoy223 so like a soccer mum then
Benjamin McIntosh stfu
I would like to lower the rear of my 2016 VW Beatle a friend suggested using a internal adjustment sleeve for the rear springs.
Any suggestions
So I bought a 94 cobra and it’s lowered. It needs some struts and shocks. I purchased the adjustable KYB struts/shocks. Is it going to effect the springs if I adjust them or am I able to adjust them at all or do I have to purchase the original standard springs so the new suspension functions correct when I install them?
1) Spring clamps = for compressing springs during service, why would you drive with them on?
2) Lowering springs = Stock DOT spec sports/GT cars have a hard enough time, why would you go even lower.
3) Camber Kit = Adjustable anything is not bad if it is sturdy, just don't go crazy.
4) Wheel spacers = Find wheels that fit.... period. There are more options in cheap good wheels than ever.
5) Larger roll bar = Depending on stock setup could be good.
+piecartbox Regarding 1), these are not compression clamps, these are (no joke, I didn't believe it till I saw it) clamps used to lower your car. Says it on the packaging. Crazy that someone sells this and hasn't been sued out of business.
Do a explanation over a cantilever suspension, 4 link, and the watts links
First time seeing this channel, great content keep em coming!
Just installed bilstein b8 shocks and eibach sportline springs on my bmw e91 320d. Feels amazing, handles better, absorbes the small bumps better, and looks nice
Protip: Cut the springs and use hockey pucks. #haggard #mint
well I heard if you french fry when you're supposed to Pizza you're going to have a bad time
+3DFLYLOW: :) Southpark reference.
I have a question: i have a project car with two different lug nut patterns on the front and the back, i swapped the rear diff and axle, but i want to use one set of matching wheels. I saw they sell lug nut conversion spacers which are basically the spacers you showed there but with different lug pattern thats threaded on, and with holes that match my spindle bolt pattern. Is there any other way to do this conversion. What would you do think i should do. Thanks
Another great video!! This guy is awesome!
Video Topic Suggestion: Torque Steer on FWD cars.
Can you do a video of all you mods on your STI (if there are any) and explaining why you did them? Thanks
I know this video was made a while back so if this comment never reaches the light of day I understand, but I'd be interested to see if you could do a similar video but focused on off-road style vehicles. The sections about wheel spacers and anti-roll bars interested me because in my experience owning a Jeep Wrangler, I've seen that wheel spacers are used quite often to achieve necessary tire clearance and track width, but anti-roll/sway bars (as safe as they are) are often an afterthought (think: sway bar disconnects). Great videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Are those spring clamps or cut spring worse?
I'd recommend anyone interested in doing actual performance upgrades to their suspension to do some proper research of their own. This video really just applies to people who want to retain a nice cushy ride on the street. The only item shown in this video that is actually a bad thing are the clamps. Lowering springs can be a good thing, stiffer anti-roll bars can be a good thing, adjustable camber arms etc. can be a good thing, increased negative camber can be a good thing, wheel spacers can be a good thing, and so on.
Agree
This is a little more complicated then the explanation. Yes, you can not do one modification and expect it to work perfectly well. Also the changes are usually small, so pretty much fine tune the suspension or tune it towards more neutral handling from the factory under-steer. For example - sway bars should be installed in pairs, keeping the balance. If you want to reduce under-steer add a 10-15% stiffer front bar. Adding a 20% stiffer all around will not cause the wheel-hopping you mentioned.
Also the lower and stiffer springs - they are 12-18% more siffer and 0.5" lower then factory. They can lower the understeer tendency and added benefit are ower ride height, so not that much weight transfer. etc etc. I could go on but we don't want to write a book here. So bottom line is you are correct in many points but a complete overhaul of a suspension can give you better grip on a track. Street cars ? Nope, the factory settings usually works, as long as shocks, springs, bushings are in good shape.
As a general rule - get the best tire in the size that fits your wheel/car. This is the single most important modification and also with the most benefit. Crappy tires do crappy grip and cause accidents.
good video at least i understand a bit of what you are saying. as for sway bars I have a Fiero mid engine car they as ive read have bad oversteer and what they suggest is 1 inch front and 7/8 rear. from what you have just said im going to need an engineer to sort out my car suspension lol. My next Fiero project is a 300 hp ECOTECH swap meaning mustang killer with good mileage haha. fiero has bad suspension already and the last year was better as they changed the suspension and the cradle. so im thinking i need to keep the nose down but need to really try to keep the car kind of neutral in its handling not sure if im correct because it needs to ride on rails . im not going to race it any thoughts would be helpful.
Hi, I need some suggestions. I'm driving a toyota liteace van with stock suspension, is it necessary if I upgrade to a better suspension?
Have you done a video on changing your differential ratio and how it affects daily drive-ability?
Those are not mods, those are torture devices
@EngineeringExplained. Im planning on completely upgrading my Suspension. I just recently refreshed all the Control Arms/Ball Joints and Sway Bar Links front and rear with a 20 piece kit from Lemforder as well as the C.V. axles. Im looking to install a Fully Adjustable Coilover Suspension and Id also like to upgrade my Sway Bars to an Eibach Performance set. I have upgraded my Tires and Braking System already to. Ive been trying to get a good opinion on this from someone intelligent. My vehicle isnt a sports car so I feel that the Performance Modifications Im planning on will greatly improve it. I own a First Gen. Second Variant. aka Facelift 2006 BMW X5 E53 4.4i N62 V8. The Truck weighs over 3 tons with how I have it. What do you think of this ? I think considering the weight of the vehicle it will benefit with these parts. Id love to hear your thoughts or ideas on this. Thanks for taking the time to read my message.
James M. Brown
Well made! Driving your points all the way: suspension is w system not just individual parts & adjustability is key!
Ok some of You might disagree for unknown reason but I've put ONLY lowering springs (-35mm) on stock suspension kit and my car handling has improved greatly so I don't agree with people who claim lowering springs will ruin the handling. With only lowering springs there is so much less roll on cornering and feel of connection to the road surface has wastly improved. I am going through corners with 20/30kmh faster than before without any problems on public roads. The ride is not bouncy and there is no kidney-hurting when going through potholes. The only negative side is I scratch stuff sometimes since it's lower. If You put the proper lowering springs desinged specifically for Your car, You will know what I mean. You don't need different suspension unless the drop is -4cm or more. The rest in video is great as always, Cheers! :)
+Tomislav Hranietzsche Agreed. Properly designed lowering springs can be a great modification.
+Tomislav Hranietzsche You guys are confusing the feel of the car with actual performance. If you like how it feels better that's fine, however you have almost certainly decreased your maximum cornering grip in doing so. As he mentioned in the video, lowering your car only minimally effects load transfer while it has a long list of negative effects. Additionally, the real benefit of less body roll from having stiffer springs is that your suspension geometry will remain fairly constant during cornering, but if you've lowered your car, your geometry is most likely not in it's optimal position.
Nicholas Chapman If you are driving your own car for fun then how it feels is more important than if it would be 0.5 seconds slower or faster on some laptime. I had to turn up the rebound on Koni shocks up just this evening immediately after going for a drive with it turned down, because^ to me the car just felt absolutely horrible with the dampers turned down. Sure it's more compliant, better matched to the spring rate* and probably faster on the stopwatch, but it just felt so sluggish and unresponsive on the initial response, I just couldn't stand it.
^(maybe I am just too used to Japanese style overdamping be it Honda stock Type R suspension or Cusco coilovers etc)
*[which is too soft, not my choice, it came with the car... I will need to change spring rate later.]
Can you do a video on suspension LIFTS that can ruin a car/truck/suv?
+shaggyusm26 i would love a video like that! i want to give my volvo a slight lift for off road rally applications and would like to know what problems i might face!
+Sebastian Wittmann if it's a v70/s70 you could always use xc70 suspension, similar situation
its a 89 244
+Ian Spaeth I'd just check forums, plenty of people rally that platform so I'm sure there's plenty of info
I like how GM is offering the Malibu with optional lowering springs from the factory. No guesswork, alignment issues, or worries about fender clearance and shock matching
Great video as usual, have you done a similar one for 5 mods that can actually increase your car handling?