Full Smog Deletion 5.8l Windsor 1994 Ford Bronco/F-150: What it Takes
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- How to remove smog components on Ford Bronco/F-150
Links to everything you need to do this:
Resistors: amzn.to/3bqH4nK
Head Plugs: amzn.to/2XVVI2q
Vacuum Plugs: amzn.to/2VPPNce
Vacuum Lines: amzn.to/3eQ3W26
Smog Pump Dummy Pulley Bracket: www.ebay.com/i...
(The pulley is 1" smaller than the original, you can either get a smaller belt or do what I did and buy this AC delete bracket and pulley: amzn.to/2VMdzGi and swap pulleys onto the bracket that you buy. This will allow you to stay OEM sized belt and keep tensioner at OEM level).
EGR Block off Plate:
www.ebay.com/i...
EGR CEL Plug: www.egrperform...
I hope this video helps someone out! If I'm missing any links, please let me know and good luck!
Thank you so much for your love and support guys! Every view, like, comment, sub, etc helps out so much and I hope you enjoy the content!
![351 Windsor - What You Need to Know About the Ford 351w Small Block [5.8 Liter]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qoK_a0NrtpM/mqdefault.jpg)
I just added a link to every part in the description under the video! I hope this helps everyone who is needing part numbers and what not!
Don't forget to Subscribe if this video helped you out! :)
P.S. Sorry I took so long to get back to you guys! Didn't realize this video reached so many people and I hope it helped! Feel free to email me if you need help with anything!
I just bought a 5.8 bronco yesterday for my son's first vehicle and a project for him and I. Almost every vacuum line needs to be replaced so I planned on doing this. Thank you for making it that much easier! Did it help it run any better? Or just got rid of some if the complexity?
@@bglenn2222 it wasn't much faster but 100% drives better, no CEL, and much much cleaner
That's what I was hoping to hear. Thank you for the response! Just ordered all the parts on your list to do this with my son!
@@bglenn2222 good luck! You'll need it on the backside of the engine, maybe have him do it if he's smaller than you haha
He's certainly smaller, but it isn't going to be fun... I'm aware of that. Lol I ordered headers as well that include the EGR delete so there's no welding required
I'm in the process of doing the smog delete right now and I ended up taking the whole TB and intake plenum off to clean everything better but also to make getting to the back of the motor easier and it helped A LOT!! Not very hard to take all that off and it make sit SOO much easier!
I wish I had done this when I did mine! There was a literal rat nest under mine, I cleaned it out well but would have been much easier lol
Got my upper off found a rat nest acorns etc. Went ahead and took valve covers off too driver side not bad, pass side was terrible black carbon. It had set up a 8 yrs b4 I got it running again so got some cleaning and painting to do had already ordered gaskets. Then to get it back together it should run like a new bronco. Will be back for more info/help thanks a bunch glad I'm doing this.
I also had a literal rat nest under my intake manifold and had to remove it because I was worried it would start a fire! I'm happy the vid helps out, my pleasure!
Great informational video narrated perfectly. Smog pump is one of Ford biggest F-ups. Glad there’s guys like this around to fix that shit.
The 'soup can' is the vacuum reservoir. The smog pump is for emissions. Neither have anything to do with EGR.
Only thing I wouldn’t delete is the fuel tank purge. I like to keep the tank pressure steady.
I was wondering where he ran those lines because the switch is still hooked up. Maybe I will just put the purge back in with new lines.
1 issue with this is if you remove the Vacuum can the A/C will blow to the windshield every time you accelerate. You need a vacuum reservoir for that. Great job on the rest!!
Yeah I was already having that problem because of all of my broken up vacuum lines, I put in an aftermarket vacuum reservoir and it's fixed now!
Thanks for the links to the parts and the excellent breakdown. I've been dealing with this f'in smog pump and pulley for years, but didn't know how to get around it.
This is awesome. We were looking for what we could delete. This couldn't be more perfect!
Great overview. This is 100% the exact same setup & components on the 1993 5.8L in our F350 - if that's helpful for anyone.
For anyone wondering about the resistors. The ones listed that were 75ohm 1/4 watt kept burning up. I got 75ohm 3watt resistors recommended from a forum and so far they are working fine.
Good info, it's so interesting because I'm still on the same resistors. I'll have to upgrade for the peace of mind!
@@AlphaTube Also, for anyone who just wants to plug and play fiveologyracing makes a "THERMACTOR (TAB/TAD) ELIMINATOR KIT" which are plugs that are about $40.
@@kjb6684 have you seen their MAF conversion kit? I want to buy it sooooo bad
@@AlphaTube Yeah, I'm just finishing up a rebuild of my 93 5.8 w/ gt40 heads, comp cams, edelbrock intake, jba headers. Once I get the bugs worked out I may swing back around at some point and do the MAF conversion to get all the hp I can get out of it.
@@kjb6684 really sweet build, I have a 93 regular cab. Trying to make a lighting replica. You should upload a video of yours .
Hey my man, found the video I know it’s old but it severely helped me. I just gotta put new lines for my MAP and FPR. Really helped man thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for this video, I’ve watched a bunch of videos that sucked. This is the best one I’ve seen.
Also your engine bay is super clean 👍
Thank you! I made it because I had the exact same problem!
absolutely perfect vocabulary kick ass video man ima certified ford man i don’t think i could have said it better i just bought a 95 F150 5.8 4x4 step side as a project one owner truck taken great care of till the ole man died that owned it then it sat for ten years got it for a 1,000 dollars window sticker and all records of service in the folder from the dealer his son-in-law sold it to me he wasn’t a car guy at all
Dang man that's a gem! I flew out to Colorado to pick mine up and drove it all the way back to California! And yeah it was A LOT of work learning all the systems and piecing it all together to do a full removal. I originally was going to replace all the lines but it was in such bad shape and it bothered me that it was near impossible just to change put the plugs with the smog lines running down the side of the motor
If you guys are interested in having block off plates for the cylinder heads, LMR offers them for 5.0, 5.8, and 4.6L engines.
I’m in Texas. I have a 1990 Eddie Bauer Bronco I bought new. Just found out once they are 25 years old you can remove every bit of emissions control if you wish. I am in the process of taking everything off including the EFI system. Replacing camshaft, installing aluminum heads, and Edelbrock pro flow 4
EFI. It has its own computer that you set up with a tablet you should check into it.
I'm moving to Texas in a few months so this excites me! I've been wondering about smog laws there and I'm hoping I don't run into any issues with registering it. Mines a 1994 so also 25 years old +. I've been looking into converting to MAF but it's so pricey.
Thank you for adding the links to your description. I had the worst time trying to find the EGR plug for some reason. Now I know where to get it!
Got you my guy!
Where did you get your egr plug
Link in bio brother!
Thank you! I am getting ready to pull a 351W out of my beloved truck that tragically has irreparable frame damage and put into another 95 F150 with a blown 302. I will be able to remove all the smog get up when doing this. If I can I am going to video the whole process from start to finish. Wish me luck. :)
That sucks but there's always a positive to everything! Good luck and I hope my video helps out, those back smog plugs will be a breeze with the motor out of the truck too!
3 years late but I also have a beloved 1995 f150 with a "blown" 302. I'm putting in a 460 zf5 and Dana's.
I'm here for my other obs ford...yes I have a problem.
Thanks so much! I know I've never said this before, but... I love you
I’m about to buy a 1994 5.8 Bronco as well found this by total chance and will definitely be following this !
“This is the pile of shit I took outta my engine bay” 😂🤣😅 classic!
It was accurate terminology at least 🤷
100%!@@AlphaTube
Thanks man just did this to my 93 f250
You forgot to remove the coolant line to the throttle body to be complete removal, but nice vid!
what does that accomplish?
You rock. Thanks for doing the hard part and figuring it out. Great video.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!! Ive been screwing around with my in the weeds find 88 f250. Got the 351w running great but i know it would do better with all that shit gone its all deteriorated. Now i know exactly what parts to order before beginning
Hope it helps and good luck on your build! 🤘
This is called "IDK WTF" Hahahaha LMAO! I'm about to take all that shit off my truck too nice video thanks!
i think im gonna do this in the spring. ill have a secondary gas getter by then and have some time to source parts/info while I wait. restoring a 95 f150 ext cab sb with the 5.8. this would clean up my engine bay so much.
Thanks for this, I have a 1997 F250HD Reg Cab Long bed XL 351w ZF-5 S47. I already cut off the cat and single exhaust, ran it true dual with a pair of glass packs, 160 t stat, cap+rotor, new 130amp alternator. I am adding a C+L Blue Thunder coil, MSD 8mm wires, Motorcraft plugs+O2 sensor, electric fan, under drive pullys, already was A/C delete, smog pump delete, new idler pullys, I am going to try just sandwiching a plate between the EGR and intake, I am going to block off the backs of all the AIR injection lines and unneeded vacuum lines to start. Will probably get everything off the way you have. I am going to create a cold air intake also. Was looking at eBay headers also. Should be getting as much as I can out of this engine for now, eventually I want to put a 393/408/418/427/434 stroker kit in it, big roller cam, aluminum heads, single plane and a carb conversion. Long travel suspension, 35-39" tires, open up and widen the fenders, have a poor man's PreRunner. Might even cut the back of the cab and the front of the bed out modify a cap to fit snug with the cab and have a LWB Bronco.
I wanted to do a 4 linked LWB too dude! Maybe one day when I'm rich haha
Helpful video. I’ve got a 97 f-250 and nearly all of that stuff was already missing, but the smog pump was still there (although not connected). This clears up a lot of questions that I had as to what went where, and what might be required but missing. Looks like I can just rip more stuff out rather than trying to get all the parts and rebuild that part of the system. Fuel pressure regulator is throwing me off as my truck has an aftermarket one and there’s no info I can find on its setup. Thanks for the nice video.
did you say a 75om resister?
75 ohm resistor
Great video. Answered a lot of questions I had. By far the best video on the topic.
Thank you, it took me a lot of time to figure out all the systems and how they operate amongst each other!
@@AlphaTube Yea its a pretty elaborate system. I got a 95 f150 with a 5.0 about a year ago that already had the smog pump deleted but nothing else so I've spent a lot of time researching what to remove, disconnect, or plug.
Thanks, you helped me determine what some of the codes I am receiving are related too
Happy to help!
I want to do the same thing to an 88 F-150 I've got, going carb as well...
Make sure you do not have a automatic transmission with electric solenoids in it because it has to be hooked up to the throttle body and everything
@@gordonboehm2530
It does, but I've got a pre efi 4x4 C6
In my shop waiting for me to get to it.
Hi got done with exactly what you did on my 89. Correct me , there was nothing we did to prevent the bronco from starting I mean I have nothing starter, good, that was a bare getting it off past headers. Going to check bat. Next. Was shifter keeping it from starting
Must have moved when installing the headers
I don't know why you'd want to remove the EVAP purge/charcoal canister. That's basically your fuel tank vent.
With the line plugged you're going to make your fuel pump struggle with the tank pressure changes, you'll also deal with tank pressure building from heat. I had the plug fall off my purge valve because the clips got broke off, and when I pulled in to get gas after a long drive I had a stain on the paint around my gas cap, when I unscrewed it, it popped off pretty violently.
Hm, I haven't had any issues but thank you for the input! Perhaps I'll put it back on
Great video thanks for doing all the hard work for us
Just a guy that wants a reliable and strong running bronco! Glad it is helpful for you boss
Thanks much for the full video with links!
My 1996 sounds great with real dual magnaflow exhaust system on it.
For the life of me I can’t find the thread pitch of those exhaust port holes on the back of the block
Thank you for the video!! I’m getting ready to delete my smog system because my new shorty headers won’t have a spot for the egr. Plus it’s just a bunch of garbage for no reason. Thank you for the resistor tip!! I was wondering what I was suppose to do with the bare plugs afterwards.
Good luck and if you remember, lemme know how the shorty headers install! Been looking into doing that myself
I’ll let you know!
You remember what you did to hook the heater box vacuum line back up?
Do you know which Egr plug you bought that made it perform flawlessly ?? Thank you !!
im doing this right now to my 92 f-350
My question is; if instead of buying the EGR simulator can't you just use the one on top of the EGR? Maybe trim it up some, but wouldn't that work? Without spending the money on the actual simulator.
Thanks
I deleted all that off my 95. It was working correct till i swapped to mass airflow after i built a new engine. After the engine and mass air swap the egr started causeing a low rpm studder. Much cleaner with out that mess.
I've been wanting to swap to mass airflow, did you switch back to speed density?
@@AlphaTube no i stayed with the mass airflow
Did you see any improvement with the mass air swap? I want to do it but it's pretty expensive and haven't been able to find anyone who's done it and can say what improved
@@AlphaTube i had to because the old computer did not like the small cam that i put in the new engine. Its hard to say what it improved because i built.a new engine then put it on. The old engine ran great with the old set up but it was just tired from high miles. If you can find someone willing to tune it you can fine tune it.where with speed density its not upgrade friendly. Not sure of conversion cost now. But it was 700 when i did mine.
Did you have to upgrade the injector size too?
Hey man curious about the resistors you used. I’m getting a thermactor code triggering check engine light
I’m in a predicament, I bought that AC pulley to replace the smog pump and I have no idea how this is supposed to bolt on? Not physically possible
Do you have another link for the egr block off plate?
I just got a 94 Bronco not too long ago, and definitely want to do this at some point. That is a giant pile of stuff to get out of the engine bay lol
Does the dummy pulley allow you to use the same belt?
I did all this stuff on my 93 but it still throws codes for EGR. Any suggestions?
you could have just put a shorter belt on because the 351w didn’t have smog stuff in 1972 so the pulleys distances are the same so no need for a idle pully
That's right. Pull out the air pump pulley and set up the belt- 6pk2290 (2.30 cm length)
Just did this to mine (1992) last night and yep a 89” belt is just perfect. Also I left the crossover pipe in back and just cut the hose short and plugged it with a hose clamp and a 1/2” steel plug shoved in the tube. I’ll put the real plugs in one day whenever I have to pull the engine. Thanks for the info man!
Just did this to mine (1992) last night and yep a 89” belt is just perfect. Also I left the crossover pipe in back and just cut the hose short and plugged it with a hose clamp and a 1/2” steel plug shoved in the tube. I’ll put the real plugs in one day whenever I have to pull the engine. Thanks for the info man!
Just did this to mine (1992) last night and yep a 89” belt is just perfect. Also I left the crossover pipe in back and just cut the hose short and plugged it with a hose clamp and a 1/2” steel plug shoved in the tube. I’ll put the real plugs in one day whenever I have to pull the engine. Thanks for the info man!
So basically I can remove smog pulley then get a shorter belt and be done
What thickness is the new rubber vacuum lines? i need to go pick some up before I tackle this.
What was the part number for the egr sensor thing that you plugged in?
Great idea, may just do it to my 93' Bronco I may do the same. Did you run into issues with codes, or wires missing causing trouble I would like to hear how it sounds now that you made the change also if you make another video.
No, just had one issue where I accidentally disconnected a vacuum line but that was an easy fix and I actually ended up replacing all of the vacuum lines as well. Truck is running really clean and happy!
Just for future viewers. You can skip buying the dummy smog pump pulley and just run a shorter belt. You have to change them slightly more often they like to start squeaking but saves buying/installing that pulley
Just don't forget the exact size or it'll be hell buying a new belt when they go out. What size did you have to get?
Or can also just take the 3 bolts off the back of the smog pump, take the insides out, put back together and reinstall, becomes a free pulley and use the regular belt
Only downside is how much that thing weighs, but honestly it's negligible and could save money!
Very nicely done. Great video
Think you just answered my question. You ran the AC and heat box to positive vacuum off the plenum spitter?? Is that right and it worked fine?
What symtoms were there? Very intriged
All of the EGR delete plugs on eBay seem to say through 1995 - Why won't they work in a 1996? Because of the MAF.....?
I believe so, as well as I believe the 96 is OBDII? So the code that's thrown on a 94 and lower is different that on the 96
Where do you put the resistors? More specifically what slots? I am in the same boat
Did you see a noticeable power and mileage difference?
I'm curious as well! I have a 94 with a 5.0l that has always been pretty sluggish and gotten fairly horrible fuel economy.
I did this on a 91 with a 5.0. Maybe get a little better mileage, but nothing noticeable on power.
How do you pass smog without it?
I am building a new motor do you have a list of things and instructions to follow particularly what to do with oxygen sensor on the y pipe?
I know it’s an old video but does anyone know why my bone stock California ‘97 f250 hd 351 didn’t come with half this stuff in it? It only has 58K miles. All I have is cat, egr, vacuum reservoir and charcoal canister. No smog pump or that manifold thing at rear of engine and no they weren’t removed.
I own an 88 bronco (full size) and it's just a plow rig. I would love to do the same thing to it. Has a 5.0 V8 and all the crap you took off looks bad on mine. It looks like it's hard to do.
It's not too bad, just tackle it carefully and strategically! I like to make a list of each system and cross off as I go so I don't miss anything
What is the name of the little can that plugs in to the aEGR plug so won't trow a code the one you point on 20 seconds of the video
Did you ever find out what the plug is and where to buy it?
Garth Couture no i have no idea whats call and were to buyit
what did you do exactly to plug the 2 holes In the back of the motor?
so on my 91 5.0 there are no threads in the holes in the back of the heads, so plugs don't work. also the egr tube goes from the egr valve back under the upper intake and into the actual intake, impossible to remove without takin the upper intake off. Oh and the resistors that you put in the 3 little connectors well they just literally fried as soon as I cranked it up??
I have a 92 F-250 w/ the 5.8l do you have a list of everything you need to do this? Please help me!
I am not super skilled in mechanics but this truck is my baby and I want it to run good
@@andrewtroth4012 were do you i get the thermactor plugs that screw into the backbof the heads?
if you don’t mind me asking why do you do a smog delete
Zip tie on the upper radiator hose. I see someone else learned the hard way lol
Not to sound stupid or anything but can you still pass smog after or as soon as you do it you can kiss passing smog behind? I still have everything on my bronco but I can't pass smog because of this smog system, so just thought about getting rid of it altogether.
I appreciate this video man, thanks. I was just looking at the mess of EGR crap on my truck and wondering how much of it I could just hack out of there. Man, that opens up all sorts of space!
Any ideas how one would plug the manifold without access to a welder?
JB Weld is life!
i wonder if all this is the same for 1991 5.0L ?
All i did was get a shorter belt no dummy pulley. I used brass plugs for back of the heads where the crossover pipe went. I chopped all those plugs off. And i just took the bulb out of the dash. Those codes won't change how it runs.
Some codes do adjust what the CPU allows as far as AFR, just FYI but there's always more than one way! :)
What size belt did you get to run without dummy pulley
@@tylersmith3628 I can't remember what size it was. I'll have to look at the part number. I used a string and routed it where the belt would go and then measured how long the string was. Give me a day and I can tell you the brand and part number of the belt.
@@kylestivers4606 Sweet thank you
From the obvious space and maintenance benefits, what are the performance benefit(s) from doing a smog delete?
I got better mpg, better throttle response, feels faster overall. Downside is it's a bit smelly in closed spaces when running lol
@@AlphaTube better MPG and throttle responses good enough for me Guess I'm doing it too 🙌🏻
what did you do with the egr / any parts used part # and supplier would be helpful
what did you plug the holes on the back of the engine with ???? plumbing plugs ??? and what size were they FYI Great video Thanks Very much
I have linked them in the description :)
Do you plug the line going to the fuel tank or leave it open for a vent?
I plugged it, but I would honestly recommend keeping the tank purge canister. It keeps the gas tank pressure down. You can keep it unplugged but you'll occasionally smell gas and that made me feel unsafe. So I plugged it and now when I take the fuel cap off the tank purges
I finished my smog delete. Thank you for your help. One question though. I felt those resistors and wow they are super hot. Literally sizzled my thumb. Any advice on that?
Was it after heat sync of the engine bay or just with the hood open?
I’m deleting the egr valve only which plug in the back was the egr not the valve but The plug in the back
The "soup can" you removed isn't part of the smog system. It is the vacuum reservoir for your HVAC system. Without it, your HVAC will cutout under load.
Most people don't have an issue with vacuum to the HVAC system without it unless they have a vacuum leak. From what I've seen, unless you replace this canister (if it's rusted) and the lines to it, you will run into the same problems. I replaced every vacuum line under my hood. Short hand: yes you are correct. My thoughts: the lines and components they use intertwine with smog and degrade massively from heat exposure and the elements. Ideal situation is to replace the soup can with an aftermarket aluminum vacuum reservoir and legit vacuum lines.
@@AlphaTube silicone vaccum lines help with heat. I also would have left the EGR valve since you don't have a way to adjust the air mix. The computer uses that valve for putting inert gas into the intake.
Removing the EGR ultimately just lowers Temps. I read a lot of debate surrounding the EGR before I decided to remove mine. I do get better MPG and more power than I did before removing everything, but it could have been other stuff removed that contributed to that as well. I also noticed my oil is cleaner for longer. A downside to doing all of this is 1.) It makes the truck illegal in some states (not mine) lol 2.) You smell the exhaust fumes more but that's sort of a given doing stuff like this. Truck idles better, drives smoother, has more power, and more MPG. If you see those with the EGR still installed and soup can etc I'd say set it up how you see fit 🤙 I would 100% swap all vacuum lines to hoses rather than the plastic OEM ones though at minimum.
@@AlphaTube the cleaner oil makes sense since you aren't cycling the exhaust back in. What did you do with the catalytic converter since you took out the air pump? Without the air injection, you are probably smelling the unburnt exhaust
Removed cat and all smog components. It's just the smell of an American naturally aspirated V8 now. It doesn't smell lean or rich, I once had a 1968 chevy II nova with a 350 small block crate engine that was carbed and it reminds me of that smell (after I tuned the carb properly of course). I also advanced the timing to 12 degrees on my bronco, swapped plugs, wires, coil pack, distributor, etc. She purrs. I also only run 91 or 93 octane after I did all of this so that may also explain why the oil stays cleaner now.
Man I’d say that’s a shit ton of parts you removed . Cheers
And she still drives like a dream! Thank you!
@@AlphaTube
Right on I need to do the same . I did delete the cat already when I did the exhaust .
Great video man
What did you do with the o2 sensor when you removed the cat
I have a 88 f250
I’m just curious thanks
Jeffrey Sistare well on my 93 it’s before the cat so it doesn’t matter
I welded the o2 sensor into the exhaust in about the same location. No issues that way and no codes
Whe to the 75 ohm resistors that you used? Mine keeps burnimg up the 1/4 watt resistors.
When you say you removed the cats, how exactly did ya do that? Two in to one exhaust adapter? Doesn't look that easy. I have an 86 5.0 bronco
I bought a magnaflow muffler and took it to an exhaust shop where they welded up my exhaust for me from that point back
where did u get the can p plugs
95 f150 5.0, used this video as a guide. Everything worked great,except the 75ohm resistors keep burning up on 2 of 3 connectors. What should i do?
I've heard this happen on some other 95s and 96s in the comments. It seems that just running a higher resistance works just fine. It's only some 95-96, I'm not exactly sure what else is different other than it being the year that OB1 was replaced with OBD2
@@AlphaTube i just ordered 75ohm 3 watt. Hopefully it solves the issue. Ty
Nice vid. Curious, did you ever weigh all the excess smog crap after you pulled it off?
No, but I imagine it being somewhere around the 25-30lb mark!
@@AlphaTube That's just another benefit of removing all that crap. Where did you end up putting the A/C Vacuum hoses?
@@Boots_And_Slicks14 I replaced the lines with some vacuum tubing instead of that brittle plastic stuff and rerouted the lines up along my firewall of the main vacuum hub
So a single hose from the ac and a single hose from that nub going to the top/middle of the intake manifold?
Are those OEM factory date coded spark plug wires ? I have a 1989 Mustang Gt with 70k miles with the original ignition wires. 🛠🐎
They WERE! I have since replaced the ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor, plugs, wires, and advanced timing 12 degrees!
heater sensor please on this very truck where is it located
Do you have a video of the truck running after the delete?
I don't, but I drive it often still with these changes. I've recently added a vacuum reservoir because my vents switch between my main vents and defrost (default). I've been told by multiple reputable shops that my bronco drives insanely good compared to most they work on since I've done this too!
Awesome video man I’m currently doing this with my rebuild where did you get the egr valve connector to not throw a code?
I just plugged it in and no code, did you check with code reader to see what it says?
Hey on your smog delete the link for resistors doesn't have any 75 ohm resistors in the pack. Just thought you should know. I bought them and have to buy another set. No biggie.
There's no need to get another pack, as long as they are the correct wattage or even a little higher. It doesn't have to be exactly 75ohm.
Got through it. Almost done, some small thing left but got alot done today. Thanks I put on headers which took some time. I've watched the video many time to help get done thanks. ? There's a 1/4 in hard line goes straight down back of motor any idea.
Is it the one that goes to the gas tank and was connected to the charcoal canister? There's also a Trans line that goes to a Trans cooler in front of the radiator that I believe is about that size.
@@AlphaTube I'll check it out thx . All you did with charcoal canister to tank line put on a vacuum plug
Yes, I also got a Motorcraft vented gas cap to make sure there's no positive pressure in my tank
Hey brother. Thanks for the video. Question for you... How important is it to have the dummy plug for the egr connector? Just picked up my 6th obs bronco and its had a smog delete but it was kind of a hack job. So far everything you went over seems to have been done successfully, except for that dummy switch. There is just a resistor stuck in the connector. Thats the only thing I can see that is different from what youve done, and the truck falls on its face when you blip the throttle. Any help is appreciated
Try removing that and see if it runs normal (it should throw a CEL). If it runs normal, it's most likely that it needs an actual EGR delete plug or no plug at all if you prefer. If it still isn't running normal with that resistor in place, check all the vacuum lines to make sure whoever did the smog delete didn't remove something important or miss capping parts of the vacuum system!
Did you encounter any problems down the road because of the smog delete. My truck won't run and all my ford buddies say it's because I did the smog delete
None, I've been running my truck the way it is in this video since I published it. I've even had a bronco suspension building shop say mine is one of the smoothest driving Broncos they've test driven! I will say the one issue I did encounter was removing the soup can vacuum reservoir. What it does is stores extra vacuum so for example when on the gas, my air ducting would go from vents to the windshield vents. I fixed that by installing a cleaner vacuum reservoir in the exact same place the old one was at with new lines.
thanks for the link your awesome
Happy to help!
Iv got a 94 f150 5.8l wanting to delete all that smog junk too, wondering how you get it inspected after deleting the smog junk
Historic plates.
Great video. I have a 94 Lincoln Mark VIII with the 32v DOHC 4.6. I want to cap off the egr port on the intake manifold and cap the egr tube. If I connect a 75 Ohm resistor across the pins on the plug that connects to the old EGR valve, will that help prevent the CEL light from coming on?
The 75ohm resistors are for the TAD and TAB harnesses. Nothing else. And I'd try to find a video or how to guide for that specific engine!
Where did you get the dummy pulley and what belt did you use?
Just run a shorter belt.. foxbody guys do it all the time
If you get the pulley, use the same belt.