Why there are no comments here is beyond me, this is one of the best videos on contrast paints I´ve seen :D. It just goes to show that if you´re just a little bit careful with how you apply them, you can get great results while still techincally "speed painting" (which is a big deal for me since I dont really have a lot of spare time). This video convinced me to try them out since all the others that I´ve watched either show splotchy, stainy results, or sped too much time on getting really high quality paint jobs.
Hey thanks! I really like the contrast paints for models like these with lots of 'natural' elements like fur, bones, cloth. I think the natural contrast colours are the best and the 'contrast paint approach' works much better/easier on these intricate areas than flat areas e.g. armour panels like a space marine where any unwanted pooling is annoying. I definitely recommend them for a 'careful' speedpaint approach 👍
I'm thinking of doing a comparison with the usual base / layer / shade / highlight approach at some point :) Honestly though I like this contrast paint approach and it comes down to only 2 things really- getting the undercoat right (not too dark, and ideally some contrast- i.e. the white drybrush) and then controlling how much contrast paint flows off the brush, which is just practice. Any extra highlighting after is totally optional and not necessary for a perfectly acceptable tabletop standard in my view.
Hi, thanks for the comment. I've got a few models left over so I was thinking of doing a shorter video with some other leather painting recipes, could add in a model painted in 'normal' base, layer, wash, highlight style 👍
@@SoleSurvivor2055 Duncan Rhodes ex-GW puts out great videos, I haven't watched in a while but I imagine his style is still similar to the GW style, he's just painting loads of different manufacturers models these days
The zenithal helps give some shading and in this case a warm shadow. If you used a mid grey primer and did the white drybrush step the contrast paint would still work in a similar way. If you want a 'warm' look to the models I'd prime with a light brown or ivory if possible. Either way, if priming with something that isn't white or very very light you definitely do need lighten the undercoat (e.g. the white drybrush, and/or spray can white from above after the grey or brown spray is cured) as contrast paints wont work well at all over a midtone or dark basecoat.
Just noticed that you said airbrushed. I found airbrushing the zenithal basecoat was definitely worth the time taken. If using an airbrush you could do it a bit quicker by priming in white then doing a quick spray from underneath with a brown. But if you have an airbrush and purely want to save as much time as possible/just prime and basecoat un one coat I'd use an ivory primer like vallejo polyurethane primer i think the ivory is called 'sand'.
@@NoProcrastinationMiniatures I have Stynylrez Grey (airbrushable straight from the bottle), and Vallejo White surface primer. That's pretty much what I have and Since you made this damn video and caused me to spend $140 on contrast paints. I'm not really in the market to buy anything else....for a while...… That said. What about Priming in Grey (Stynylrez) and then Dry brushing the white from Vallejo as you did? Or maybe just Airbrushing the white? (Somehow)? I don't know how to make things airbrushable TBH. Also you said "From underneath" with a brown, you dry brushed downwards with that white, wouldn't it be from above? I guess I'm just confused now... And I apologize for taking up your time. But I do greatly appreciate it. EDIT : I somehow missed the part in the video where you said you used the redbrown and then sprayed htem from above. Helps me understand a little bit better. not purposefully trying to be dense over here LOL Also i realized i have Stynylrez RedBrown too.. So i could probably just use that, then white, then drybrush
Unfortunately I couldn't record the airbrushing properly due to using a spray booth. I probably should've explained that bit in more depth. It was basically a red brown full prime all over, then when cured add a few layers of white ink (white paint would work the same, i just find the ink a bit smoother through the airbrush. Just do it it thin coats and be patient letting each coat dry) from above and a bit from 45degrees (but strictly not from below) until it looks pretty light from above, but still much darker from below. The drybrush is to bring out all the raised edges even more- basically doing the edge highlighting for you. Before I did this army I primed a few old clanrats models in various combinations of light grey/ivory/brown with and without a zenithal of white and tested the contrast paints. If you have time it's worth spending an hour or 2 doing that first I found it really helpful to work out how the contrast paint responds to being painted over different undercoats. They really don't work at all if painted over a dark or even a midtone undercoat. At about 20.25 in the video I switch to a model that didn't get as as much of the white ink in that initial zenithal step and you can see that all the contrast paints then look a bit darker as they're over a darker undercoat. That's why GW recommend (and sell of course!) a light grey (grey seer) and a light ivory (wraithbone) and it's suprising how much this does effect the final colours- the ivory makes everything a lot warmer. The basecoating process I used in the video was just one way of making the shadows darker and the highlights very light as I like the results better than for example just priming in a light ivory (but it still looks good when done like that). Hope that's helpful, thanks for the comments, let me know how you get on. 2 final tips- the contrast paint is quite thin so it's a bit more delicate than normal paint i.e. if handling the model it's more likely to rub off. I varnished mine at the end. Secondly, don't knock the pots over it goes everywhere!!
@@NoProcrastinationMiniatures Very in depth and exactly what i needed to know. Thank you very much. Really appreciate this level of interaction in the comments section. You don't have to answer this one because you've already said more than enough but if you feel up to it What Varnish do you use? I've been using Armypainter Matt Varnish (Dropper bottle) and sometimes my paint actually rubs off while im applying it which is strange. it does dry perfectly clear and works well otherwise. Thank you again!~!!!
Skip all the highlights and then just highlight a few bits on the front ranks/ tops of the models once they're glued to the base. That would save a lot of time
@@NoProcrastinationMiniatures yeah I was thinking about super speed painting the back ranks and concentrating on the front ranks, even so I'm going to have to figure a faster work flow than you present because your skill level is definitely over mine. I'm probably going to lean on my airbrush heavily as well. Thanks for commenting.. I'm gonna paint up 2 2k armies and I'd really like to be done around the beginning of the new year 😂
Contrast paints with chestnut/red/orange colour inks are great for creating loads of leather colours. Let me know what you think!
Why there are no comments here is beyond me, this is one of the best videos on contrast paints I´ve seen :D. It just goes to show that if you´re just a little bit careful with how you apply them, you can get great results while still techincally "speed painting" (which is a big deal for me since I dont really have a lot of spare time).
This video convinced me to try them out since all the others that I´ve watched either show splotchy, stainy results, or sped too much time on getting really high quality paint jobs.
Hey thanks! I really like the contrast paints for models like these with lots of 'natural' elements like fur, bones, cloth. I think the natural contrast colours are the best and the 'contrast paint approach' works much better/easier on these intricate areas than flat areas e.g. armour panels like a space marine where any unwanted pooling is annoying. I definitely recommend them for a 'careful' speedpaint approach 👍
@@NoProcrastinationMiniatures Thanks for the reply!
Inspired me to purchase a unit and some contrast inks. Fantastic tutorial. Thank you!
Thanks! Hipe you enjoy the project, contrast paints are fun to paint with 👍
so much better than anything i am capable of. Besides i also would love to see you paint these with normal paints
I'm thinking of doing a comparison with the usual base / layer / shade / highlight approach at some point :) Honestly though I like this contrast paint approach and it comes down to only 2 things really- getting the undercoat right (not too dark, and ideally some contrast- i.e. the white drybrush) and then controlling how much contrast paint flows off the brush, which is just practice. Any extra highlighting after is totally optional and not necessary for a perfectly acceptable tabletop standard in my view.
Useful, thanks.
This is amazing thank you for making this. could you do a painting video of Non-contrast paints on these same miniatures by chance?
Hi, thanks for the comment. I've got a few models left over so I was thinking of doing a shorter video with some other leather painting recipes, could add in a model painted in 'normal' base, layer, wash, highlight style 👍
@@NoProcrastinationMiniatures that would be awesome!! "Normal" painting doesn't get much love in video form these days. :(
@@SoleSurvivor2055 Duncan Rhodes ex-GW puts out great videos, I haven't watched in a while but I imagine his style is still similar to the GW style, he's just painting loads of different manufacturers models these days
One last question. is the Zenithal undercoat required? or would gray Airbrushed on primer still achieve reasonably good results with this method?
The zenithal helps give some shading and in this case a warm shadow. If you used a mid grey primer and did the white drybrush step the contrast paint would still work in a similar way. If you want a 'warm' look to the models I'd prime with a light brown or ivory if possible. Either way, if priming with something that isn't white or very very light you definitely do need lighten the undercoat (e.g. the white drybrush, and/or spray can white from above after the grey or brown spray is cured) as contrast paints wont work well at all over a midtone or dark basecoat.
Just noticed that you said airbrushed. I found airbrushing the zenithal basecoat was definitely worth the time taken. If using an airbrush you could do it a bit quicker by priming in white then doing a quick spray from underneath with a brown.
But if you have an airbrush and purely want to save as much time as possible/just prime and basecoat un one coat I'd use an ivory primer like vallejo polyurethane primer i think the ivory is called 'sand'.
@@NoProcrastinationMiniatures I have Stynylrez Grey (airbrushable straight from the bottle), and Vallejo White surface primer. That's pretty much what I have and Since you made this damn video and caused me to spend $140 on contrast paints. I'm not really in the market to buy anything else....for a while...…
That said. What about Priming in Grey (Stynylrez) and then Dry brushing the white from Vallejo as you did? Or maybe just Airbrushing the white? (Somehow)? I don't know how to make things airbrushable TBH.
Also you said "From underneath" with a brown, you dry brushed downwards with that white, wouldn't it be from above? I guess I'm just confused now... And I apologize for taking up your time. But I do greatly appreciate it.
EDIT : I somehow missed the part in the video where you said you used the redbrown and then sprayed htem from above. Helps me understand a little bit better. not purposefully trying to be dense over here LOL
Also i realized i have Stynylrez RedBrown too.. So i could probably just use that, then white, then drybrush
Unfortunately I couldn't record the airbrushing properly due to using a spray booth. I probably should've explained that bit in more depth. It was basically a red brown full prime all over, then when cured add a few layers of white ink (white paint would work the same, i just find the ink a bit smoother through the airbrush. Just do it it thin coats and be patient letting each coat dry) from above and a bit from 45degrees (but strictly not from below) until it looks pretty light from above, but still much darker from below. The drybrush is to bring out all the raised edges even more- basically doing the edge highlighting for you.
Before I did this army I primed a few old clanrats models in various combinations of light grey/ivory/brown with and without a zenithal of white and tested the contrast paints. If you have time it's worth spending an hour or 2 doing that first I found it really helpful to work out how the contrast paint responds to being painted over different undercoats. They really don't work at all if painted over a dark or even a midtone undercoat. At about 20.25 in the video I switch to a model that didn't get as as much of the white ink in that initial zenithal step and you can see that all the contrast paints then look a bit darker as they're over a darker undercoat.
That's why GW recommend (and sell of course!) a light grey (grey seer) and a light ivory (wraithbone) and it's suprising how much this does effect the final colours- the ivory makes everything a lot warmer. The basecoating process I used in the video was just one way of making the shadows darker and the highlights very light as I like the results better than for example just priming in a light ivory (but it still looks good when done like that). Hope that's helpful, thanks for the comments, let me know how you get on.
2 final tips- the contrast paint is quite thin so it's a bit more delicate than normal paint i.e. if handling the model it's more likely to rub off. I varnished mine at the end. Secondly, don't knock the pots over it goes everywhere!!
@@NoProcrastinationMiniatures Very in depth and exactly what i needed to know. Thank you very much.
Really appreciate this level of interaction in the comments section. You don't have to answer this one because you've already said more than enough but if you feel up to it
What Varnish do you use? I've been using Armypainter Matt Varnish (Dropper bottle) and sometimes my paint actually rubs off while im applying it which is strange. it does dry perfectly clear and works well otherwise.
Thank you again!~!!!
I got 120 to paint, im gonna have to find a faster workflow than this 😂
Skip all the highlights and then just highlight a few bits on the front ranks/ tops of the models once they're glued to the base. That would save a lot of time
@@NoProcrastinationMiniatures yeah I was thinking about super speed painting the back ranks and concentrating on the front ranks, even so I'm going to have to figure a faster work flow than you present because your skill level is definitely over mine. I'm probably going to lean on my airbrush heavily as well. Thanks for commenting.. I'm gonna paint up 2 2k armies and I'd really like to be done around the beginning of the new year 😂
Good luck! I haven't played KoW for a few months, need to try out the new NA rules so might need more tribesmen myself, they look better now!
@@NoProcrastinationMiniaturesthanks for making these videos! I start tomorrow 🎉