Thanks Jay, on cars with a heavy clutch we always bypassed the neutral safety switch so the car can be started with out the force from the pressure plate pushing on the thrust bearings, allowing oil pressure to be there, instead of a dry start. Love the videos. Thanks for all the great tips. P.s don't start the car in gear.
Yes. More tech tips...always interested in learning as much as we can.
It's amazing to see you sharing the knowledge. I can only imagine how many more clients your will have in the future. Great job on educating your clients and showing your attention to detail.
Keep these tech vids coming. I like them
More of these vids! Little tips and tricks like these can save a lot of home built motors.
Great to see engine tips added to this channel. Thumbs way up. Hope to see more in the future.
So much Technical and Mechanical experience goes into building great motors.💯🏁🏁🏁👍
I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOU'RE DOING BUT THANKS.
thanks for the vid, i have actually been seriously considering biulding a DSM and.... well you know lol
Good advice my thrust bearing went out on my 5.3 turbo. I will follow these steps next time!
This is awesome. Hope there's more of these videos to come.
Very informative tips ; must give props to the back ground music....yeahaiee yeahaieee!
Seems tedious but I guess is necessary, especially from the instruction from a master mechanic, like the gentleman in the vid...
Would be ok if it had a little or does it need zero play on the crank? Is there a tolerance for the 4g63 engine?
The dreaded crank walk seems to be a big problem with Mk7 GTI cars.. I have a stage 2 tune with a southbend stage 3 daily clutch and Iam terrified this is going to happen to me.. I love my Mk7 but I feel like Im driving a time bomb now and really considering selling it now.
Excellent video. Due to crank walk, beside thrust bearing wear; will we get any vibration while accelerating?
More of these tech tip videos please
WE WANT MORE!!!!?? this guy need to build my motor!
Hey thanks guys I just learned something new this morning that's why I keep up with y'all stay up an stay safe holla
Good ass jam playing in the back ground, das efx?
Shout out to RSP. Soon as I get my second job I'm coming to you guys for a turbo k build.
Heres a question. Toyota put different size bearings in the 2jz for the crank and rods. I am hoping to get away with a micro polish. But I am being told that its need to cut and so on. I am trying to figure out what is going on.
I've been around engine techs nd they never told me that! I'm a B-tech w/ 2yrs experience. Pls keep posting tech tips
Even though you are using magic to suspend that dial indicator, I still subscribed.
I want this guy to build my engine. Is there a contact #?
i ment the buying part. LOL
I couldnt afford a motor like that lol
i wish i could tho. i would use this guy
So doing this with no pre lube doesn't damage the baring? Like when you hit the crank to check crank walk the small bit it moves doesn't damage it at all? Would the measurement be off if I did it with prelube on the bearing? You need to do a full 2jz build dvd I would buy it
Hmm, a racing channel that offers nifty tech tips. I'm down!
FYI, you have a typo in your URL. It's missing an r.
Can anyone help me? I have a 3sgte from a 1988 all track celica it has a little bit of crank walk should i reseat it? Or just throw the oil pan back on and throw the engine in and start it?
Great tips
Perfect work
So about .0015" is ideal on crank end play I suppose??
More tips please. Bearing clearance next?
Yes a plasti-gauge for that. Put a piece on the main bearing then torque them down. Then remove them and measure. Simple.
I'm talking about what clearances are recommended for turbo, nitrous, n/a, e85, race gas, pump?
aznrhyder The clearance only matters to the engine and ability to move oil through the parts. Has nothing to do with the rest of that. A properly built bottom end will handle all of that.
Sweet! More videos!
crankwalk 4D56T ? all bearing are like new. 5w30
hey Jay can you give me a tip on injectors do I need bigger ones on a d16 all motor build with out supercharged or turbocharged
bad ass! Taking notes👍👍
What procedure would you recommend to seat the one piece flange thrust bearing in the Mitsubishi evo 4g63t 1-3 engines ? Crankwalk is a major problem in the early evo community. Thanks in advance.
Ahhh. Good ol 2 bolt mains.
what kind of torque wrench was that?
what kind of snap on is that? becuase i havent' see nany flat like that
Demarkio Williams TQFR250E heres the part number. Search it on the snap on site.
Nice. Any advise on 2JZ builds?
Let it ride
1 day I will build my 4G63... but I don't think anytime soon, 300+ awhp 115,00 miles... purr's like a kitten and I don't plan on going over 380awhp any time soon, I like fast spool up too much
It's hilarious seeing what's considered a clean part releasing a crap load of contaminant.
Oooooo :o ...... Nice mains caps 😚👌
He only torques the main bearings with the thrust only? huh...
looks like my new short block :D
Is this one of those builds that says "stock motor".
Bitch plz, I see those billet main caps.
Clean build though.
thank god my engine is h6 and i dont have to worry about that lol
Girdles solve the problem as well dont they?
This engine he's building has billet main caps no need for girdle. if you don't have billet main caps girdle will help .
last
what tha fuck
dont buy a 2g dsm
TKBurst
Or a Supra. Not sure what else crank walks, but those are the two that do it the most. Which I think that's what this is a 2jz.
4G63 7 bolt peeps checking in.