How do you meter when you have no light meter? Today we'll talk about the Sunny 16 Method and some bracketing techniques. View more at aop.thepublicbroadcast.com
I have been following your content since 2018 and never came through this video. 10-year-old video and found it today as I am getting my first film camera without a meter. Very informative. Thank you, Sir. Love from India.
Just purchased a manual camera without a light meter for my daughter to learn with. I tried to explain this to her but she didn’t get it. However, she understood your explanation.
Keep the shutter speed the same. It's too confusing for beginners. Keep the shutter at 250th with 200 to 400 iso and just adjust the aperture. Colour negative and black white film has at least 4 stops of latitude. Colour slide film needs more precise exposure.
I learned this as the "rule of 16" back in the seventies with a Yashicamat 124. Over the years I got fairly good at it. It gets a bit more challenging when you have something like a Minox III that has a fixed aperture. You can't get to f/16, so you have to compensate with the shutter speed and/or the filtration. If you do this long enough, you can look at the scene, maybe the sky and just kind of "know" how to set your camera controls. It becomes almost second nature. It gets more difficult to judge indoor lighting... say under fluorescent lights. Stage lighting will give most photographers headaches. Persevere though, Weegee never used an exposure meter and Matthew Brady never saw one. I'm not sure about Dorothea Lange, but I never saw a picture of her using one. Ansel Adams... well, he was tied up in the zone system I suppose and I dare say that perhaps Weston "appreciated" his support.
I have been watching your channel for my new fond love for 35mm. It's hard to find a nice film camera here in India. Finally got but getting film was even harder.. Only two shops in bangalore sell them. Watching this video felt like a blast from past... You look so so younger, I actually had to see when this video was posted.. Such a long journey.. Hats off to your hardwork. Thank you for the gems.. Looking forward to exploring your channel more as I face difficulties with film.
Amazing! I am a big fan of your channel and while searching for tutorials on film photography this came out! A video of yours posted 10 years + 1 day ago! Thank you Ted!
I live in Bergen, Norway. typical North sea overcast. I tried the Sunny f16 metode and found my light is EV 12 at 100 ISO. I put the aperture to f5.6, ISO 100 and shutter 125. Result totally dark. at the end i manged to get a balanced exposure by opening the aperture to f. 2.y, shutter 30 and ISO to 200. This experience shows that the Sunny f16 method is just a basic indication and only works in bright sunlight. That's why the camera industry worked so hard to develop the light meter.
Thank you! This has been such a big help! I've been playing with my dslr actually, to set myself up for shooting film! It sounds counter intuitive, but I am trying to learn all this stuff in my head because I miss film and there are almost no labs around anymore!
Ted this old video was just recommended to me randomly. I have to say, you should do a throwback video and use this intro (or a homage to it) as a goof. Would be funny stuff. Cheers!
Your right in general. But the problem is to teach your eyes and find out yourself the correct aperture. I've checked out my own assessment of "sunny 16" to what the light-meter is telling me. And it does very often not fit at all. Totally overcast day in an urban surrounding ... should be f/8 ... but my light-meter is telling me something between f/4 and f/5.6 So it would be better NOT to rule that, but instead teach yourself by checking your own guess by looking at an light-meter on and on and on. Doing so for at least 10 cartridges you should be sensitized to find correct aperture without a light-meter.
Sadly, I'm old enough to remember when Kodak included this exposure advice in the film data sheet they used to include with their film (along with development info for B&W film). Then they went to almost no information in a dozen languages and finally no information at all. That's progress?
There are a lot of nice I old rangefinders that work great with sunny 16. They give the exposure value of the shutter speed and aperture say Ev 8. So once you set the EV you turn the apeture and sutter (on the lens in those days) together and maintain the same Ev with every adjustment.
It depends also on the film, You can overexpose negative film without worrying too much. I once shot some images on ISO 400 film with ISO 100. The colors were over-saturated but that's it. Positive film does not like over-exposing at all. I had a Kodak Instamatic which always used 1/125 s on ISO 100 and f/11. It worked only on sunny weather.
So, if I set my camera to f/16 and match the shutterspeed to the ISO, but I want to have a shallower depth of field, I can adjust the aperture up to f/5,6 for instance and then increase the shutterspeed by three stops too, right?
In the case of digital cameras if you check the measurements of cameras in DXOmark website you will realize the the ISO of digital image sensors isn't real like that of films. The real ISO is usually lower than what appears on the display for marketing reasons. People prefer cameras with higher maximum ISO which in most cases is lower in reality. There is the Looney 11 rule for moon photography too. For example with ISO 100, set the aperture to f/11 and the shutter speed to 1/100. The moon and especially the full moon is more than what we think. So in the case of manual shooting with digital camera the rule isn't valid and some practice for the ideal ISO is needed.
This is soooo useful for me! I use classical camera and i use tables to set all the parameters. I always get confused when i change my film from iso100 to iso400(for example), my shots usually are overexposed. This method gives me good starting point. Thanks! And the tip about edges of the shadows is also useful.
Nice video Ted. However, what do I do at, lets say dusk or at night? I am using a Hasselblad 500 CM with 80mm. I know I should use a LM but if there is a rule, i'd like to know and practise it. Most forum recommend either using a LM or a point & shoot and find out the readings...
Thank you Ted. Really helpful information and extremely well explained. I'm shooting digital and would like to know which of the settings you would change if you had a tele lens? Would you set the ISO accordingly to match the focal length and help to assist you with the stability or would you do something completely different? Lovely to see that I have tons of stuff to catch up on on your channel. Thanks again Robert
In Di Go Yes it really did and I got to experiment with it today as well. Tried it out on my digital camera and it worked like a charm. Thank you so much for taking your time to answer my question.
Hey Ted! I hope you see and answer this comment. I've been trying street photography on film and while seeing things like Steve McCurry's picture of the indian woman with the baby asking for money at the window of his car I get so impressed about how he was able to take that shot so fast. And searching about it, it seems like he would just use sunny16 to expose. I would like to know more in depth how to develop this critical sense in order to be shooting slide in street super fast without a meter. Are there any techniques or just practice? What would be the best way to practice it?
Great video, very informative! Ive a Yashica Electro 35 GS and yes, as with most Electros, the meter doesn't work! So considering the defult shutter speed is around1/500 of a second then am I right in thinking Id choose ISO400 film and set aperture to F16 for bright days, then adjust my aperture according to how bright the sun is? Also can I shoot in lets say, inside? If I open up the shutter to its widest of F1.7 and still use ISO400, would this be ok,or am I pushing my luck?
I experimented with my Fuji X100F and set it to f/16 with shutter speed at 250 and ISO at 250 and it was under exposed by over 3 stops. I had to go to f/2.8 to get the meter to read correctly. what am I doing wrong or missing?
TED! HELP! I have Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex 1C TLR and it has a built-in light meter. It will point to a number on the ground glass and I adjust a dial on the side of the camera according to that value and it will gives me the possible f/stops and speeds to shoot that particular scene. This would be fine if only the ASA/DIN on the camera matched today's values. I learned the ASA/DIN scale was reworked in 1960 (the year they stopped making this camera) so Ilford pan-F 50 has a speed of ISO 50/18 DIN but when the camera is set to 18 DIN, the ASA reads 20. The values are way off, essentially making the built-in light meter useless. Do you know of a conversion table or workaround for calculating old speeds with new speed film other than buying an external light meter? Note: this camera is set up to work on the sunny 11 rule. I hope you can help. Thanks
Recently I bought The Nikon F3 with AF Nikkor 50mm F1.8D , but when I checked the inbuilt light metre with my sekonic light metre (external metre) the Nikon F3 reads two stop under for example , The Nikon F3 reads 1/60'th & aperture F8 with ASA 200 AND my sekonic Light metre reads in that particular situation reads as 1/60'th & aperture F4 with ASA 200 so u can see the difference. Do u think it's good idea that I should always adjust my aperture with two stops based on my sekonic reading Because The Nikon F3 didn't work without Batteries & when I put batteries inside F3 it's reads wrong ? The Nikon F3 is a semi manual Focus camera. I have to put batteries inside or else it won't fire shutter.
Hi Ted how to use sunny 16 rule with a zeiss nettar folder? Im using iso 100 so close ss to that is 75 ( B 25 75 and 200) Now if i want some dof and my lowest ap is f6.3 the max ss is 200 on this camera. so exposure might not be correct????
Now I'm double thinking a building I shot with 100 iso film on a sunny day. The meeter was wanting a shutter above 500. I might not have been stopped down enough
shouldn't you open up the lens in scenes with lots of snow instead of stopping down, since the snow is making the camera think that it is getting more light than it actually is?
If you are shooting a person you will underexpose if using f16 in sunny and 8 in cloudy. You need to drop 1 f stop. If it is a close up even more. Cloudy can get to 5.6 with 125 you again will underexpose with 8 or 11. I think sunny 16 works on landscape open space. When you shoot in a street and shoot portrait you need to think more than that...
If I have a manual camera with a broken light meter, do I still need to set the ASA? In other words, does the adjusting the ASA mechanically affect the shutter or aperture or is it just for the benefit of the light meter measurements? Is this typical of all mechanical manual cameras? Thanks!
That would work fine, you might be over exposed slightly, but film is very forgiving and most colour negative films benefit from 1 or 2 stops over exposure.
I probably wont get an answer since this is an 8 years old video but what if I want to overexpose the photo by setting camera to a lower iso? For example if the actual film is 200 but I set the camera to shoot as if its 100. Do I match the shutter speed to 200 or 100?
if you want to over expose 1 stop you put the setings for 100 .16 fstop 125 shuter speed 200iso film = 1 stop overexpose in a sunny day OR 11 fstop 250 shuter speed 200 iso film = 1 stop overexpose
what i do is simply level shutter speed and aperture. if you want a wider apterure and go down 3 stops the picture will become brighter, but you can prevent that by going 3 stops upwards with your shutter speed. it's crucial to understand the thinking in "stops" and then all aperture and shutter speed dials will become less abstract
+Ivan Pelčić If you set at 200 ISO your camera (or you have a 200ASA film) you just have to consider the fact that you are letting 1 stop more light into the sensor (film). So to balance things if at ISO100 f16 ss1/125 you got a right exposure, at ISO200 you have to close your diafram to f22 or reduce your shutter speed to 1/250. Usually in your lens you can modify at steps of 1/3 of stops or 1/2 (it depends), so if you set your shutter at 1/300 you should probably open a little bit more your diafram to f14 more or less. But if your lens do not allows you to do so, remember that actually 1/3 of stop is something that can be easily recovered in postproduction or into the darkroom.
Good instruction but exposure compensation does not work with manual mode.
7 років тому
it depends on camera - in my case my slr lets me use manual mode and set exposure compensation, which then controls what camera shows as suggested correct exposure values in the viewfinder/LCD exposure scale which I can match (center to middle of the ev scale) manually in manual mode or is done automatically in PSA modes
In manual mode form the normal exposure settings you can add compensation by making the aperture and exposure time + or -. The disadvantage is by doing so one may miss the correct stops. Please ref the articleon this link: digital-photography-school.com/how-to-use-exposure-compensation-to-take-control-of-your-exposure/ Have a good day.
@felipealvarez1982 if you think this is just for film cameras just because he used one in the demo... you've completely missed the point of what he's trying to teach you! A film camera has ISO, shutter speed and aperture, a DSLR has.... you guessed it.... ISO, shutter speed and aperture!! No difference.
Too bad these older videos aren't at least 720p. It's not a huge issue, but a bit of sharpness and clarity is always more pleasant, even for an informational video.
for this information, I'd be content with 'audio only'. This is one of the best explanations I've come across. Better than some coarse 'gray card' videos I've come across. I'm thinking that Kodak''s instruction on gray card use seems most thorough. (I need to experiment to know for sure)
No, he meant 1/200th. His camera obviously doesn't have 1/100th so he has gone for slight under exposure (closest shutter speed of 1/125th). So, 1/100th x2 = 1/200th sec shutter speed. ;)
Not f 100 buddy , it is 1 hundredth of a second for asa 100... take it easy , you speak too fast and you make mistakes and also people are finding hard to follow...it is not how fast you say it , it is how accurate you say it... Take it from an Electrical Engineer to whom the technical details of photography are a toy...
Who is here in 2020??
So far one of the best explanation that I've ever seen
Precisely
o/
Me, August 2020 - hi there :) and just had this explained the best of all explained.
I understand this rule but how does it apply if it's sunny outside but your subject in in covered shade?
@@carlyleellis6984 I think that you have to weight the exposure according where your main subject is
Six-year old video, only found it today, super-informative! Thank you AOP.
@Fabian June 2019
@@atroche1978 Dec 2021
I have been following your content since 2018 and never came through this video. 10-year-old video and found it today as I am getting my first film camera without a meter. Very informative. Thank you, Sir. Love from India.
By far, the best explanation of the Sunny 16 Rule I've seen. Thank you!
Agreed
Just purchased a manual camera without a light meter for my daughter to learn with. I tried to explain this to her but she didn’t get it. However, she understood your explanation.
It warms my heart to know that there are still many parents who give their kids the gift of film Photography. Good job!
Keep the shutter speed the same. It's too confusing for beginners.
Keep the shutter at 250th with 200 to 400 iso and just adjust the aperture.
Colour negative and black white film has at least 4 stops of latitude. Colour slide film needs more precise exposure.
You had possibly the highest production value out of all UA-cam channels in 2010.
Even after 8 years, still useful! Thanks :) beautiful evolution of your channel !
Man you've been doing this a loooooong time. That's awesome. We appreciate you.
after 10 years still the best video ever! simple and easy to understand
I learned this as the "rule of 16" back in the seventies with a Yashicamat 124. Over the years I got fairly good at it. It gets a bit more challenging when you have something like a Minox III that has a fixed aperture. You can't get to f/16, so you have to compensate with the shutter speed and/or the filtration. If you do this long enough, you can look at the scene, maybe the sky and just kind of "know" how to set your camera controls. It becomes almost second nature. It gets more difficult to judge indoor lighting... say under fluorescent lights. Stage lighting will give most photographers headaches. Persevere though, Weegee never used an exposure meter and Matthew Brady never saw one. I'm not sure about Dorothea Lange, but I never saw a picture of her using one. Ansel Adams... well, he was tied up in the zone system I suppose and I dare say that perhaps Weston "appreciated" his support.
I have been watching your channel for my new fond love for 35mm. It's hard to find a nice film camera here in India. Finally got but getting film was even harder.. Only two shops in bangalore sell them.
Watching this video felt like a blast from past... You look so so younger, I actually had to see when this video was posted..
Such a long journey.. Hats off to your hardwork.
Thank you for the gems.. Looking forward to exploring your channel more as I face difficulties with film.
Amazing! I am a big fan of your channel and while searching for tutorials on film photography this came out! A video of yours posted 10 years + 1 day ago! Thank you Ted!
FABULOUS EXPLANATION and easy to understand video on the Sunny 16 rule! Thanks!
I live in Bergen, Norway. typical North sea overcast. I tried the Sunny f16 metode and found my light is EV 12 at 100 ISO. I put the aperture to f5.6, ISO 100 and shutter 125. Result totally dark. at the end i manged to get a balanced exposure by opening the aperture to f. 2.y, shutter 30 and ISO to 200. This experience shows that the Sunny f16 method is just a basic indication and only works in bright sunlight. That's why the camera industry worked so hard to develop the light meter.
Wunderbar !! Your "Sunny 16 Method" is a great idea.
Thank you! This has been such a big help! I've been playing with my dslr actually, to set myself up for shooting film! It sounds counter intuitive, but I am trying to learn all this stuff in my head because I miss film and there are almost no labs around anymore!
Ted this old video was just recommended to me randomly. I have to say, you should do a throwback video and use this intro (or a homage to it) as a goof. Would be funny stuff.
Cheers!
Excellent video, as always. Thumbs up.
after 10 years still the best explanation.
Perfect subject for Episode 16. That said, it sure helps to know equivalent exposures if this method is used.
Thanks! Explained simple and easy :)
thanks for the advice! really appreciate it!
thank you so so much for this man its so helpful for me just starting out
Thank you SO much for this !!!!
Your right in general. But the problem is to teach your eyes and find out yourself the correct aperture.
I've checked out my own assessment of "sunny 16" to what the light-meter is telling me. And it does very often not fit at all.
Totally overcast day in an urban surrounding ... should be f/8 ... but my light-meter is telling me something between f/4 and f/5.6
So it would be better NOT to rule that, but instead teach yourself by checking your own guess by looking at an light-meter on and on and on.
Doing so for at least 10 cartridges you should be sensitized to find correct aperture without a light-meter.
Film loves over exposure. You can overexpose by two stops and the print will still look good. Use f.8 and 1/125 outdoors and your prints will be okay.
Sadly, I'm old enough to remember when Kodak included this exposure advice in the film data sheet they used to include with their film (along with development info for B&W film). Then they went to almost no information in a dozen languages and finally no information at all. That's progress?
There are a lot of nice I old rangefinders that work great with sunny 16. They give the exposure value of the shutter speed and aperture say Ev 8. So once you set the EV you turn the apeture and sutter (on the lens in those days) together and maintain the same Ev with every adjustment.
It depends also on the film, You can overexpose negative film without worrying too much. I once shot some images on ISO 400 film with ISO 100. The colors were over-saturated but that's it. Positive film does not like over-exposing at all. I had a Kodak Instamatic which always used 1/125 s on ISO 100 and f/11. It worked only on sunny weather.
@MrsSasa1603 You can change the shutter speed on the Canonet, it's the ring on the lens. Look for the blue "30", that's 1/30s shutter speed.
Thanks, that was a great help!
You’ve come a long way baby! ...but it was still very infornative🙏
super useful!!!!!!! many thanks!!
Well explain . Thanks
So, if I set my camera to f/16 and match the shutterspeed to the ISO, but I want to have a shallower depth of field, I can adjust the aperture up to f/5,6 for instance and then increase the shutterspeed by three stops too, right?
Correct!
Right
But what if my maximum shutter speed is 1000 on my camera? Should I adjust the ISO in that case?
@@rob2324_ Or you have to use an ND which stops it down that you get a low enough shutter speed.
@@rob2324_ bro see this is my problem too I am highly confuzzled
You always explain everything so well and clear. Thank you so much!
very useful. thanks.
In the case of digital cameras if you check the measurements of cameras in DXOmark website you will realize the the ISO of digital image sensors isn't real like that of films.
The real ISO is usually lower than what appears on the display for marketing reasons. People prefer cameras with higher maximum ISO which in most cases is lower in reality.
There is the Looney 11 rule for moon photography too. For example with ISO 100, set the aperture to f/11 and the shutter speed to 1/100. The moon and especially the full moon is more than what we think.
So in the case of manual shooting with digital camera the rule isn't valid and some practice for the ideal ISO is needed.
Thanks...really helped...
Awesome tip
Great thank you !
Woof, that intro, super cheesy! But the info is still great love to see your growth in your videos! Nice and simple now!
I like the '70s style theme music.
This is soooo useful for me! I use classical camera and i use tables to set all the parameters. I always get confused when i change my film from iso100 to iso400(for example), my shots usually are overexposed. This method gives me good starting point. Thanks! And the tip about edges of the shadows is also useful.
You are quick!
Sorry for being late, Is there a rule for interiors shots? thanks
Nice video Ted. However, what do I do at, lets say dusk or at night? I am using a Hasselblad 500 CM with 80mm. I know I should use a LM but if there is a rule, i'd like to know and practise it. Most forum recommend either using a LM or a point & shoot and find out the readings...
Thank you Ted. Really helpful information and extremely well explained.
I'm shooting digital and would like to know which of the settings you would change if you had a tele lens? Would you set the ISO accordingly to match the focal length and help to assist you with the stability or would you do something completely different?
Lovely to see that I have tons of stuff to catch up on on your channel.
Thanks again
Robert
if u are on tele. you should have fast shutter... these days cameras have great ISO performance..so boost it to some degree... hope that helps,))
In Di Go Yes it really did and I got to experiment with it today as well. Tried it out on my digital camera and it worked like a charm. Thank you so much for taking your time to answer my question.
Hey Ted! I hope you see and answer this comment.
I've been trying street photography on film and while seeing things like Steve McCurry's picture of the indian woman with the baby asking for money at the window of his car I get so impressed about how he was able to take that shot so fast.
And searching about it, it seems like he would just use sunny16 to expose.
I would like to know more in depth how to develop this critical sense in order to be shooting slide in street super fast without a meter. Are there any techniques or just practice? What would be the best way to practice it?
Great video, very informative! Ive a Yashica Electro 35 GS and yes, as with most Electros, the meter doesn't work! So considering the defult shutter speed is around1/500 of a second then am I right in thinking Id choose ISO400 film and set aperture to F16 for bright days, then adjust my aperture according to how bright the sun is? Also can I shoot in lets say, inside? If I open up the shutter to its widest of F1.7 and still use ISO400, would this be ok,or am I pushing my luck?
Yes, your correct. Also YES You can use the same technique in doors as long as you use some extra light if possible.
way helpful!
I experimented with my Fuji X100F and set it to f/16 with shutter speed at 250 and ISO at 250 and it was under exposed by over 3 stops. I had to go to f/2.8 to get the meter to read correctly. what am I doing wrong or missing?
Mkay !
TED! HELP! I have Zeiss Ikon Ikoflex 1C TLR and it has a built-in light meter. It will point to a number on the ground glass and I adjust a dial on the side of the camera according to that value and it will gives me the possible f/stops and speeds to shoot that particular scene. This would be fine if only the ASA/DIN on the camera matched today's values. I learned the ASA/DIN scale was reworked in 1960 (the year they stopped making this camera) so Ilford pan-F 50 has a speed of ISO 50/18 DIN but when the camera is set to 18 DIN, the ASA reads 20. The values are way off, essentially making the built-in light meter useless. Do you know of a conversion table or workaround for calculating old speeds with new speed film other than buying an external light meter? Note: this camera is set up to work on the sunny 11 rule. I hope you can help. Thanks
thank you so much for an easy explanation....I'll skip the meter :)!
Recently I bought The Nikon F3 with AF Nikkor 50mm F1.8D , but when I checked the inbuilt light metre with my sekonic light metre (external metre) the Nikon F3 reads two stop under for example , The Nikon F3 reads 1/60'th & aperture F8 with ASA 200 AND my sekonic Light metre reads in that particular situation reads as 1/60'th & aperture F4 with ASA 200 so u can see the difference.
Do u think it's good idea that I should always adjust my aperture with two stops based on my sekonic reading Because The Nikon F3 didn't work without Batteries & when I put batteries inside F3 it's reads wrong ? The Nikon F3 is a semi manual Focus camera.
I have to put batteries inside or else it won't fire shutter.
Hi Ted how to use sunny 16 rule with a zeiss nettar folder? Im using iso 100 so close ss to that is 75 ( B 25 75 and 200) Now if i want some dof and my lowest ap is f6.3 the max ss is 200 on this camera. so exposure might not be correct????
So, would a shady location be another stop down from shadowless cloudy?
Ted, i love u
what about shooting on wider aperatures?
That's correcting the in camera metering. This video is about not using any form of meter at all. Granted, the title is confusing.
Now I'm double thinking a building I shot with 100 iso film on a sunny day. The meeter was wanting a shutter above 500. I might not have been stopped down enough
shouldn't you open up the lens in scenes with lots of snow instead of stopping down, since the snow is making the camera think that it is getting more light than it actually is?
If you are shooting a person you will underexpose if using f16 in sunny and 8 in cloudy. You need to drop 1 f stop. If it is a close up even more. Cloudy can get to 5.6 with 125 you again will underexpose with 8 or 11. I think sunny 16 works on landscape open space. When you shoot in a street and shoot portrait you need to think more than that...
I understand this rule but how does it apply if it's sunny outside but your subject in in covered shade?
watching from 2020 jan
MASTER
how if the camera doesn't have shutter speed? such as canonet,
If I have a manual camera with a broken light meter, do I still need to set the ASA? In other words, does the adjusting the ASA mechanically affect the shutter or aperture or is it just for the benefit of the light meter measurements? Is this typical of all mechanical manual cameras? Thanks!
No you don’t ISO/ASA setting are just so it gives you the correct visual meter information
Wow look how young you look
Hi ted, if I was using iso400 film and my camera only goes as fast as 1/300 and I have it at f16 would this be ok?
That would work fine, you might be over exposed slightly, but film is very forgiving and most colour negative films benefit from 1 or 2 stops over exposure.
Haha Sunny 16 and episode 16...I see what you did there!
I probably wont get an answer since this is an 8 years old video but what if I want to overexpose the photo by setting camera to a lower iso? For example if the actual film is 200 but I set the camera to shoot as if its 100. Do I match the shutter speed to 200 or 100?
if you want to over expose 1 stop you put the setings for 100 .16 fstop 125 shuter speed 200iso film = 1 stop overexpose in a sunny day OR 11 fstop 250 shuter speed 200 iso film = 1 stop overexpose
@@SammyandTex2 wow thank you! This is extremely helpful 😊😊
Watching in 2019
shweet
i like you vids Ted but "closest shutter speed of F-100"? 😂 oops!
Bracketing for slides
@felipealvarez1982 Same rules apply dude.
He He did you hear at 1:13 he say set the shutter speed to F/100 :) ~smile~
What about if you’re indoors? Sunny 16;is great, if you’re outside.
what i do is simply level shutter speed and aperture. if you want a wider apterure and go down 3 stops the picture will become brighter, but you can prevent that by going 3 stops upwards with your shutter speed. it's crucial to understand the thinking in "stops" and then all aperture and shutter speed dials will become less abstract
whot if i use ISO 200 or 400 and i have only 1/100 and 1/300 of second?
+Ivan Pelčić If you set at 200 ISO your camera (or you have a 200ASA film) you just have to consider the fact that you are letting 1 stop more light into the sensor (film). So to balance things if at ISO100 f16 ss1/125 you got a right exposure, at ISO200 you have to close your diafram to f22 or reduce your shutter speed to 1/250. Usually in your lens you can modify at steps of 1/3 of stops or 1/2 (it depends), so if you set your shutter at 1/300 you should probably open a little bit more your diafram to f14 more or less. But if your lens do not allows you to do so, remember that actually 1/3 of stop is something that can be easily recovered in postproduction or into the darkroom.
+Gianni Di Girolamo Thank you, very much, You helped me lot.
Ivan Pelčić use 250th, 500th
February 11, 2018
Sounds like George Clooney. Looks like Carlos Ponce.
the sunny 16 rule saved my ass when i shot my agfa billy record from the 30s
You get a lightmeter app for your iphone.
Define a little overcast.
Good instruction but exposure compensation does not work with manual mode.
it depends on camera - in my case my slr lets me use manual mode and set exposure compensation, which then controls what camera shows as suggested correct exposure values in the viewfinder/LCD exposure scale which I can match (center to middle of the ev scale) manually in manual mode or is done automatically in PSA modes
In manual mode form the normal exposure settings you can add compensation by making the aperture and exposure time + or -. The disadvantage is by doing so one may miss the correct stops. Please ref the articleon this link: digital-photography-school.com/how-to-use-exposure-compensation-to-take-control-of-your-exposure/
Have a good day.
remember this? :)
@felipealvarez1982 if you think this is just for film cameras just because he used one in the demo... you've completely missed the point of what he's trying to teach you! A film camera has ISO, shutter speed and aperture, a DSLR has.... you guessed it.... ISO, shutter speed and aperture!! No difference.
Seems like seeing a video of the nineties
Americas Most Wanted.
You can't shoot film with a DSLR, it's just an SLR, the D is for digital.
You can shoot film with a DSLR, you just have to take pictures of some film! Haha!
this is for FILM, not DIGITAL
Same same
...Fer, fer, fer...,
At least hes better than PhographyBanzai.
Bracketing would cost you 3 clicks :/
Too bad these older videos aren't at least 720p. It's not a huge issue, but a bit of sharpness and clarity is always more pleasant, even for an informational video.
for this information, I'd be content with 'audio only'. This is one of the best explanations I've come across. Better than some coarse 'gray card' videos I've come across. I'm thinking that Kodak''s instruction on gray card use seems most thorough. (I need to experiment to know for sure)
i think he completely missed the whole dslr thingy
What a geek 🤓
"I'd go one stop brighter from 1/125th to 1/200th"
You mean 1/250th... lol
No, he meant 1/200th. His camera obviously doesn't have 1/100th so he has gone for slight under exposure (closest shutter speed of 1/125th). So, 1/100th x2 = 1/200th sec shutter speed. ;)
Not f 100 buddy , it is 1 hundredth of a second for asa 100... take it easy , you speak too fast and you make mistakes and also people are finding hard to follow...it is not how fast you say it , it is how accurate you say it... Take it from an Electrical Engineer to whom the technical details of photography are a toy...
Sorry, but you cant do real metering without a meter.. buy one
Sure, but this knowledge allows you to improvise if you don't have one.
Theoria Apophasis I have to agree this is awful. This is why new photographers give up. Bad advice. My IQ just lost a few points after watching this.
You are quick!