Cryptography: the hardest slab in the world?

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  • Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
  • Did Alessandro Zeni master the most difficult slab in the world? Find out in the Karpos film, the thrilling story of a new and inscrutable route (9b), imagined, visualized and dreamed of for years.
    The outstanding athlete, a member of the sports section of the Italian Army and a Karpos ambassador, executed his work of art on the legendary Saint-Loup crag in Switzerland. An achievement that will go down in climbing history.
    A Film by
    KARPOS
    Directed by
    STEFANO JEANTET
    Cast
    ALESSANDRO ZENI
    DENIS TRENTO
    In Collaboration with
    CENTRO SPORTIVO ESERCITO COURMAYEUR
    © 2020 Karpos

КОМЕНТАРІ • 60

  • @aidanloeser4890
    @aidanloeser4890 4 роки тому +53

    Wow, that one finger crimp was absolutely heinous

    • @rmazocar
      @rmazocar 4 роки тому +7

      An empty T-Nut hole at the gym would be better than that hold.

  • @James-Truong
    @James-Truong 4 роки тому +167

    The music kind of makes the video unwatchable...

  • @nextoliver
    @nextoliver 4 роки тому +47

    Me at 0:25 Ah, ironic choice of music for the intro
    Me at 6:00 Oh dear.....
    Good effort, though

    • @lixtaressoc8683
      @lixtaressoc8683 4 роки тому +4

      Yeah there are some discutable artistic choices in this video but the achievement in itself is really amazing and both route and climber are cool, so yeah too bad it's so artificial

  • @ananda_miaoyin
    @ananda_miaoyin 3 роки тому

    I thought I was doing some slab climbing yesterday....then I watch this guy.
    My fingers hurt even worse for having watched this!

  • @Cragcloud
    @Cragcloud 4 роки тому +3

    Looks fantastic and so great you got it!

  • @RossellaLolli
    @RossellaLolli 4 роки тому +2

    👏👍😊Complimenti un video eccezionale grazie per averlo condiviso 👏👏👏👍😊🔝 👋

  • @arthurstrubbeslabdabclimbi6086
    @arthurstrubbeslabdabclimbi6086 4 роки тому +12

    The two hardest slabs in the world are meltdown (wales) 9a/8c+ and territorio comanche 8c+ (madrid) spain, this is not a truly slab, is a vertical wall

    • @arthurstrubbeslabdabclimbi6086
      @arthurstrubbeslabdabclimbi6086 3 роки тому

      @@MS-fg8qo humm i didnt think about it. But maybe its a liltle bit more than 90°. Look at the quickdraws they are floating

    • @MS-fg8qo
      @MS-fg8qo 3 роки тому +2

      @@arthurstrubbeslabdabclimbi6086 hmm, I checked again and I think you're right about it being slightly overhung, at least in the upper section. Other than that, I don't see any other serious contender for hardest slab in the world🤷‍♂️🙂.

    • @IsuckYoungBlood
      @IsuckYoungBlood 2 роки тому +1

      It looks like a slab to me at 2:54

    • @damianopresa8817
      @damianopresa8817 2 роки тому

      Eternit?

  • @andm6847
    @andm6847 4 роки тому +53

    great achievement, great video, great climber, good commenting but horrible music. Just re-upload it without music and this would be a great video for the ages.....

  • @TerjeMathisen
    @TerjeMathisen 4 роки тому +2

    This seems sort of similar to Adam Ondra's recent linkup, Bohemian Rhapsody, which was also created by taking the hardest part of multiple existing routes, joining them with a traverse to the right?

  • @rmazocar
    @rmazocar 4 роки тому +5

    Nice, but shouldn't all slabs 5.13 and up just be named "raining blood"?

  • @gryphon940
    @gryphon940 9 місяців тому

    Vertical.Slab is so much fun

  • @robertnejedly2957
    @robertnejedly2957 4 місяці тому

    💪🏼

  • @ArrampicataGolden
    @ArrampicataGolden 3 роки тому

    Alessandro pubblica altri video che son bellissimi ! ! E trova una linea indipendente sulle stesse difficoltà o maggiori vicino a casa tua, sarebbe bellissimo vedere nascere un 9b+ di placca tutto italiano e sfidare i mostri sacri della arrampicata mondiale . Forza ALE.

  • @YiZongOng
    @YiZongOng 4 роки тому +2

    really great penmanship tho ngl

  • @b5crascpzrezrj5k56
    @b5crascpzrezrj5k56 4 роки тому +10

    Most difficult slab in the world? What about Disbelief 9b in Canada?

    • @torwald5877
      @torwald5877 4 роки тому +17

      Disbelief is a wall very slightly overhanging. Even if it's a very unusual profile in this level of difficulty (most of the routes are very overhanging), you cannot call it a slab, so that would make Cryptography the hardest slab in the world. I would love to see Adam in these 3 routes by the way, I think he would really enjoy it !

    • @giotex4475
      @giotex4475 4 роки тому

      from description: the most difficult slab in the world? there is a question mark!!!

    • @arthurstrubbeslabdabclimbi6086
      @arthurstrubbeslabdabclimbi6086 4 роки тому +2

      I think the two slabs more hard core are meltdown and territorio comanche there are "SLABS" this rute is a litel bit overhanging, for me is not a slab

    • @dylancolon5871
      @dylancolon5871 4 роки тому +3

      I've seen this thing in person, the cruxes are definitely gently overhanging. Look at 2:00 and 3:05, the draws are hanging in space, not leaning against the wall. As such, this is a brilliant piece of climbing, but calling this the "hardest slab in the world" is certainly just not true. Also the crux on this thing is the crux of Bimbaluna, which is certainly no where near as hard as the crux of Disbelief.

  • @lucioq87
    @lucioq87 4 роки тому +1

    Grande!!

  • @giantrobot5804
    @giantrobot5804 4 роки тому +1

    Bellissimo!

  • @ryancrochiere7502
    @ryancrochiere7502 4 роки тому +2

    cool moves! carving in the crag is normal over there, you'd get $heet for it over here.

    • @samhoward5439
      @samhoward5439 Рік тому

      Exactly. Tame your ego brah. Stellar job tho !

  • @MS-fg8qo
    @MS-fg8qo 3 роки тому +1

    What about Disbelief (9B) in Canada? Ondra said it was the closest to his limit possible. Looks like a slab from the video. No overhang there...

    • @user-ih3jl9um6e
      @user-ih3jl9um6e 3 роки тому

      Actually Disbelief is not a slab, it is very close but it's a few degrees overhanging, that is why it is called the first vertical 9b and not first slab 9b. Hope this cleared things up

    • @MS-fg8qo
      @MS-fg8qo 3 роки тому

      @@user-ih3jl9um6e You're right. I've rechecked and come to the same conclusion 😅.

  • @seankeenan3643
    @seankeenan3643 4 роки тому +2

    I think the answer to your question is "No - probably not." Meltdown looks harder for one example. I guess we'll see how many repeats this climb gets - if people feel it's worth checking out.

  • @kjw1603
    @kjw1603 3 роки тому +1

    Normally I would mute videos with such "bad" music scoring it, but I wanted to hear the commentary by Alessandro. My gf and I couldn't watch past 2 mins because of the music, and the camera footage was just not great (why would you rotate the angle constantly...). Really sad, as we were both stoked to see what 5.15 slab looked like...

    • @randydewees7338
      @randydewees7338 10 місяців тому

      I could kind of take the music, but the constantly changing camera angles drove me nuts.

  • @ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy
    @ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy 4 роки тому +1

    Incredible!!! 🤙

  • @Robbiesrk
    @Robbiesrk 4 роки тому +3

    Nice work! Looks insanely hard to pull on. But I’m the words of the God Alex Megos in Rotpunkt “There are no bad conditions, only weakness” 😂

    • @ViziKari
      @ViziKari 4 роки тому

      except for slabs :)

    • @Goofygreyhoundgoober
      @Goofygreyhoundgoober 4 роки тому +5

      I mean that’s a nice saying and all, but it’s still objectively false. Friction on small holds is a very critical part, especially on a 9b slab

  • @user-gk4vs3xt8e
    @user-gk4vs3xt8e 4 роки тому +2

    the answer is "la pedriza".

  • @PalmiP
    @PalmiP 11 місяців тому

    You dont see many 9a climbers on that wall😆

  • @eoinkernan4852
    @eoinkernan4852 4 роки тому

    why he look like perry the platypus

  • @IsuckYoungBlood
    @IsuckYoungBlood 4 роки тому +6

    Grandissimo Ale!! Peccato per la musica del video un po' fastidiosa, sarebbe bello avere una versione della salita "cruda" senza musica e montaggio :)

  • @changabuena9441
    @changabuena9441 4 роки тому

    Everyday's job in montserrat

  • @Aaron-mv4xf
    @Aaron-mv4xf 3 роки тому

    Looks pretty steep for a slab...

  • @ryangamv8
    @ryangamv8 4 роки тому +1

    Is this really slab tho? It looks basically vertical

    • @francescocornelio7498
      @francescocornelio7498 4 роки тому +2

      Slab can also be slightly overhanging in some parts.
      It is the style of climbing: on a very compact wall and minimal holds.

    • @ryangamv8
      @ryangamv8 4 роки тому

      @@francescocornelio7498 "Slab climbing is a type of rock climbing where the rock face is at an angle less steep than vertical." Literally the first thing that comes up when googling slab climbing

    • @mikrojinn
      @mikrojinn 4 роки тому

      @@ryangamv8 ha ha ha .... so Eternit (@Baule Crag) is not a slab??? ... Ok ... (PS: are you Adam Ondra ? ...)

  • @TimH123
    @TimH123 4 роки тому

    Great achievement, poor choice of music.

  • @anthonyyatesfotaj
    @anthonyyatesfotaj 5 місяців тому +1

    very cheesy production which spoils an impressive send story

  • @davidgreen4450
    @davidgreen4450 4 роки тому

    pre clipped???

    • @Brewsto
      @Brewsto 4 роки тому +3

      where is the pre clip?

  • @joshjanes1
    @joshjanes1 Рік тому

    Not slab climbing.

  • @jjns3991624
    @jjns3991624 4 роки тому +1

    Meh

  • @edestefanis
    @edestefanis 4 роки тому

    Minute 3:00 no helmet, terrible example man