Why your ass taking your cars to chain shops? Always go to owner operated shops. They work harder for your money. Plus they have more experience in general. The people working there are usually there for a long time so they have way more experience not high turnover like at chain shops with a bunch of newbies. Chain franchise shops are all about profits and don't' get two cents about you.
The reason why this guy is able to repair car is because he have a passion / devotion for what he do which was a requirement back in the days for Doctors, police officers among other professions nowadays people just go to college for a degree no love whatsoever for what they do
Mr. Duane is an excellent master technician who demonstrates the proper methodical way to diagnose an engine performance problem. Unfortunately, in the real world a dealership technician would have been ripped apart by everyone from the customer to the service adviser to the service manager. Try explaining that replacing 3 oxygen sensors and a cam synchronizer did not completely fix the main issue, and the technician would be walking with a limp mode for a week due to the arse chewing he just received. The job of a master tech is not an easy one, as this video clearly demonstrates. Great videos Mr. Duane, the automotive industry is in short supply of true astute talent such as yourself.
Robert Perez some time when you will find other factors that will be a problem but not fix it. Happens all the time and the customer really only cares his vehicle is working and stays that way. Not replacing the cam and O2 sensors as well would have been another trip back to the shop and having the customer upset because he would have asked why the tech didn't find that the first time. Thanks for the lesson on reading the graphics
Wish you could help me with my Ford Taurus. Its saying all kinds of codes. Its chirping its guts out. The last code was po17400 lean its suppose to be a vaccume leak. These cars aint what they use to be?
This is a real mechanic and i well appreciate his instructions. I wish everyone was like him. My 2001 Doge Caravan is doing exactly the same thing. Now, i have to find this short or fuse that controls the limp mode. Any body know where it is?
This was fun to watch, I love watching car shows, but they have as of late become more of a pimp my ride affair than a nuts and bolts how to show. I'm going to watch more! Thanks!
I can't get over who removed fuse 13 and why. Also, he didn't throw parts at this vehicle. Through his inspection, he found other parts that were non-spec and problematic and replaced before further troubleshooting on the main problem can continue. Throwing parts at it would be replacing known good parts. He replaced known bad parts (tested out of spec) that definitely should have been replaced. That is not throwing parts at it. This is a legit repair in my book as bad related parts can obfuscate the source of the main problem and cause other issues down the line. Of course, looking at the datastream would have been a good way to start.
I have a 2008 town and country that doing same thing but it's not the fuse it keeps tell me the “crankshaft position sensor” which we replaced and the o2 sensor and the cam shaft position sensor .Still doing the same thing
peachees i totally agree as would most real tech but explaining that to a service writer whos never picked up a tool in his life is an entire different animal.
open and closed loop are terms that describe how a computer controls something. In our case the engine. In open loop a fixed set of variable/inputs are used to produce a fixed output. Fuel values are normally fixed for a given RPM, MAP etc. In closed loop the computer looks at inputs (throttle,O2,temps,MAP,MAF,etc) and makes corrections and adjustments to the output (fuel, timing, etc) to control the engine. The switching of the O2 sensor output high/low is caused by the computer in closed loop
Thanks for doing this. As a student, this was awesome, and I learned a lot. I don't have access to the resources you do, except at school, but they are closely guarded. I need access to that kind of data, the expensive scope and so on. I've got a little Craftsman code reader. Having those scanners would make my life easier. Also, it seems like a trouble-shooting method might catch some of these problems just by being thorough. Fuses turn out to be crucial in a lot of situations I have noticed. It was interesting the way you found the problem. Thanks again...!
Great to see another video from you, Duane. By the way, starting at 11:30 to 12:30 it's hard to hear your voice over the engine. You could improve the video by typing in captions using the youtube editor -- no need to repost. Nice to see you posting at the teaching shop -- good lighting!
it was probably one of the codes you erased. since you worked on the engine a trans code would be a red flag. always good to write down or print off codes before erasing. in the real world this helps when you can show the customer at bill time
I had similar symptoms on a pre-computer car. It idled great and ran good at low speeds around 25 mph but as soon as I got to around 40 mph, it just didn't want to go any faster. I just had the engine rebuilt at a shop and returned it to them and they said they couldn't find anything wrong, so I took it to a second engine shop and they found that the first shop installed the wrong size main bearings. I had to take the first shop to small claims court to get my money back from them.
With all do respect. You have to be ( A ) "TECH"! to understand the prose's of Elimination AND Perfection That Separates A Technician From A JUNK HARD MECANIC THIS GUY IS PROFESINOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Welcome back Duane. I'v been looking at alot of your videos for past couple of weeks. I see you upgraded your camera. I can tell. I like how you used identfix to fill fuse 13. That is really I mean really good.
EXCELLENT Video & The ways its presented!! Moral of the story=?? Due to design of this ford- = "Dont Buy any -Ford Product"!! I'll stay GM!! Thanx again!
as these old guys retire and die off it is getting hard to find young guys that have the same determination and logic and experience. some just want to make money as easy as possible. been ripped off by younger mechanics a few times. blatantly and they seem to think everyone is stupid but them. i can tell when ive been scammed and had lousy work.
So where would a shop start with a 1994 Toyota v6 3,0 with looping idle when warmed up ? Just passed smog with great numbers. Onto a scope first ? No check engine light on.
Limp mode can be caused by a small rubber disc breaking off the brake pedal and the brake lights staying on. That would show up as driving over 50 with the brakes being mashed thius unsafe operation. Look for a dime sized rubber disc on the floor board first.
My 1995 Caprice was stuck in limp mold. Started throwing parts at it. Last part I checked was optnispark fancy word for disc reader well oil got on disc reader computer could not read timing. Car acted gutless like it was limping along. Oil rings failed engine oil got into plastic case.
Sounds exactly like the pt cruiser i had. We put every new part in history. A man told me the timing was off a cam. Noone paid it any mind because it was a new belt when i got a water pump. They didnt get the thing in right. It ruined my car.
This was a great video to watch. I just got my 99 Ranger 4.0L (same truck) back together after pulling the lower intake in search of an air leak (lean codes), while at the same time replacing the cam synchro, which was shrieking horribly. I don't know how on earth you got at the cam synchro to change it, but even with the upper intake off it still looked like a hell of a challenge. Never found the air leak but, reassembled with a new gasket set, it was fixed.
Any time you check a fusebox , you should be aware that you don't want to just add a fuse into any available location - as some vehicles are equipped with a fuse section which is specifically included to allow manufacturers to remove this fuse , so that battery drain is not possible during shipment (IE : overseas vehicles). Plus , there are also fuse locations which have an optional set of 3 pincers (1 position is for ON , and the other is for OFF). This is for the accessory 12V lighter socket
Great video absolutely fabulous only one thing hard to hear you with the motor running trying to find a way that you can be heard better but great video
I remember very well when I was going through school for this stuff the simple acronym of KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) was thrown around for process of elimination for diagnostics. It never ceases to amaze me that no matter how complex a problem can appear, the solution could be right in front of you and be as simple as the fix in this video. Excellent job!
With all do respect. You have to be ( A ) "TECH"! to understand the prose's of Elimination AND Perfection That Separates A Technician From A JUNK HARD MECANIC THIS GUY IS PROFESINOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now the real mystery begins who took the fuse 13 and why? Was it another shop teacher So he could get the top position in the shop. Or was it a disgruntled student getting back for a bad grade, taking out my scan tool I discover it was sabotage... but who And why?
I hate to say it, but as a novice with very limited background, I would have found the problem in 3 to 5 minutes. If the problem is not presented by noise, fluid leak or obnoxious odor, I always hit all the fuse boxes before doing anything else. I do the engine fuse box first only because its easier to work on, and controls the engine vitals. I just compare the box lid diagram to every fuse, and pull and visually check every fuse. Unless the position is labeled Optional, I'll make sure there is a working fuse of the labeled capacity in the slot. If you have a $2,000 high tech scanner, you will start by using that first. If you are poor and ignorant, you start with the 3 or 4 fuse boxes and go from there. Such would have been better in this and most cases. The best advice a mechanic told me (only because I was a personal friend, and not in the industry) is that he'd lose his job as a master tech if people only checked the fuses before bringing their problems to him to diagnose. He starts with the missing or blown fuse (missing fuse means it was blown previously) and from there find out why it might have blown and test only the related components.
Good day all, I have a 2008 Isuzu KB 300 D/C Turbo diesel that is stuck in limp mode. Went to GM and the say they '' Think it is the computer box '' but can't be sure till it is replaced and they want 5k for a new one. They told me that the reading its giving is at 5.5v and not at 5v like its supposed to be. which means it has too much air pressure which is causing limp mode and check engine light to stay on. What is happening is when in 1st gear the bakkie won't go over 20km/h, 2nd won't go over 40km/h, 3rd 60km/h, 4th 80km/h, 5th 100km/h. it also won't go over 2000 rev's when pushing accelerator. Any advise? Thanks
I have a 2010 Ford Ranger XLT 4X4 and i want too instal a 4" lift kit but i found out the is not recommended on 2010 models with Traction Control system because turning into a coner the truck will go into a limp mode. The question is WHY..?? Thank you..!!
Hey there, I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana and it has the same issue. when I go onto the highway the vehicle runs smooth, but when it reaches 112 km/h (69.59 MP/h), the vehicle goes into limp mode like in the video. I cannot accelerate past that and the vehicle slows to around 100km/h, when it reaches that i regain control of acceleration and can reaccelerate but still cannot accelerate past 112km/h. i have checked and even changed fuses and i have changed everything from the: MAF Sensor, MAP Sensor, crankshaft position sensor, IAT Sensor, camshaft position sensor, both o2 sensors, and others,. Do you have an idea what the problem could be? I have wasted a lot of money and time and still haven't found the problem. Also: I do not have an engine light, so i've been fixing this with just plain guessing. Thanks.
It's amazing sometimes , 30+ students and master mechanics and we tend to over look a fuse .... I'm thinking that the maybe the students blew another fuse and replaced it with fuse 13 either forgetting to replace or thinking was not important... Biggest mistake was writing off all those initial codes after diagnostics were preformed , maybe best to research your web connections before replacing random items ... All those newbie students and no one looked at fuses ... Oops Entertaining video thank you. ....
I have an 05 ford ranger 2.3l manual truck that has a misfire in cylinder 4 and is throwing a pcm fault code P0606 I've already replaced coil plugs and wires it's running really rough do u have any clue what is going on with it?
I just had a transmission shop tell me i needed a 3000 dollar transmission because one selenoid failed to work for awhile and the fluid got cooked. I think it is the TPS or speed sensor or wiring. I cleaned up all my connections and grounds and pulled 6 qts of fluid and put in some lucas and lube guard red. The shop checked nothing but just looked at the fluid to make the call. Truck still works but you get the feeling it is the throttle position sensor giving bad data. with your foot off the gas it shows me 18% throttle?
very possibly, limp mode tries to protect the engine by reducing power, transmission transmits power, so yes it could, but it would NOT cause it, it would be a byproduct of an engine problem
I have a 99 Ford Expedition 4.6 l with 220,000 miles... and when i am on the high around 75 mph it starts to click like valves or something. Can it be the timing chain?
hi sir, good day. i have problem with my hyundai santa fe classic CRDI 16v AT diesel engine gold edition. my engine wont go in 3000rpm. a bad start. but it change gear in normal way. when i step full in gas pedal and reaches 2800rpm it will not change gear and it look like he wont give me a full acces to the engine and transmission. it look like no power at all.. pls help me solve this problem. thank you and more power.
Yes, we see that sort of nonsense from tow drivers and/or shifty shops on a regular basis here in LA... and it's getting worse all the time. Some of them are fairly 'creative' in their ways & means. It's sad really...
Your diagnostic videos are great. Thanks for all your effort. My only comment is Identifix must be expensive as they don't even seem to publish their subscription prices. So I'm guessing it's not something that's practical for the DIY guy. Obviously we can just use Google, UA-cam, etc. to try and search for solutions but Identifix really made your life easy in this case.
I ALREADY HAS THIS PROBLEM WHEN I DID A TRANS SWAP ON MY EXPLORER, THE PLUG ON THE LEFT FRONT SIDE OF THE TRANS WAS HALF PLUGGED IN WHEN I THOUGHT IT WAS ALL THE WAY AND CAUSE ALL SORTS OF PROBS
with my Ford Fusion, i was going to limp mode while driving on highway, took to local dealer, they cleaned throttle body, still went into limp mode occaisionally, took to another dealer and they installed new throttle body/with tps, knew immediately what was problem, primarily not a dirty butterfly but whole unit, now works fine, diagnostics require talent, not a quest for money, first dealer wanted to bleed me for money, second in New Smyrna, Florida, performed fix on warranty.
Identifix? Wow they have been trying to get me to sign up for a few years now. I don't quite have enough big repairs or customers to support the monthly service payment yet but have needed to be able to consult a service like that a good number of times for technical info. Great video and diagnose process. Skeptics really need a video to view like this. Sometimes a vehicle can be so neglected that by the time it hits the shop, you have to correct a few issues before you can properly diagnose what the problem is. I've had an overheat condition with a head gasket replace that turned into a catalytic converter replace because the vacuum was slightly low and bogged down when revving. I've also had a spider fuel body replace job where the fuel pump had to be replaced first because the fuel pump was going bad (not to specs). Sometimes you can't even explain it to a customer ahead of time because they give you the eye. This video makes me feel proud and I don't even own a fancy scanner yet and have never been to a formal mechanic training.
I always scan first ,check fuses .Would have thought you would have done the scan test before replacing o2 sensors n timing shaft, even though shaft was bad.
Sometimes it's better to just go back to the basics. Throw all the diagnostics computers out, and address it the way we used to. The way we used to address it was to check the fuses first! Then if the basics don't cut it, follow up with the diagnostics equipment.
Hi thanks for the video, I have a truck that started with similar symptoms and after watching your video,I checked the fuse both in the cab and engine bay. All fuse looked OK but some had fine layer of coating, kind of brownish on the contact pin so I clean the contact pins and took the vehicle for test run and problem solved. thanks
Very hard to find a guy like this anywhere but especially where i am presently. It seems that hardly any of the shops have mechanics that went to school.School? they are backyard/home garage trained and then on the job at the shop from other guys that came up the same way and largely they are tossing darts in the dark and then turning the lights on and seeing what they hit. It is a shame that you see guys like this on line but do you think you can find one?
Probably from FSM's... Factory Service Manuals. Those are the best way to go, even though they're sometimes a bit pricey (ebay is a good place to find em cheap) GM has a website for licensed GM techs where it has EVERYTHING but you need a GMID to get on that site. Used to be some free stolen GMID logins on the internet but they don't work anymore.
I have a 00 f 150 that wen you put the truck in drive stay in neutral I got to Press the gas pedal Hard to make the truck engaged ?any body out there know knows how to fix that
I'm new to computer based automotive technology and actually don't know anything about it. I bought a computer based car and am lost as to how things work. This video has been the world to me. Its a great explanation of how things work and how to... correctly... troubleshoot various issues. Great job. Sorry I'm living in another country
Last time i saw one of your videos you were in a shop working on cars Now you're at a school so i'm assuming you're a teacher now. Just wondering where are you teaching at Mr. Duane??
My observance of your scope settings, were O2S1and O2S2, STFT 1, STFT 2, Loop. 11 minutes into the video, after the O2S's heated up, and the PCM went into closed loop with no load on the engine. I became aware that when you snaped the throttle with the trans in park, there was a momentary spike into open loop. After replacing fuse #13 and the O2S's heated up, you performed another throttle snap and there was no momentary spike into open loop.
Thanks for the video! I had trouble understanding some of the dialog over the noise of the engine. If you want a good laugh, read the captions under the closed caption mode. It appears that those captions were generated by voice recognition software and they make a lot of errors. If those errors could be corrected, it would be a big help.
Wow I have a 99 Ranger and have never seen limp in mode. Thanks a lot for showing it to me. Do Chevy, Nissan, Honda, and Toyota also have limp in modes? This is a really great video.
Boy I wish I had a quality mechanic like urself to fix my truck when I can't figure it out. Not these rookies that work at Firestone or pep boys
Why your ass taking your cars to chain shops? Always go to owner operated shops. They work harder for your money. Plus they have more experience in general. The people working there are usually there for a long time so they have way more experience not high turnover like at chain shops with a bunch of newbies. Chain franchise shops are all about profits and don't' get two cents about you.
Right!
Wess Reiley mean those latest grads of puppy mill UTI.and paid their 65 grand for sema certs and no idea
My local shops fuck people over time and time again
The reason why this guy is able to repair car is because he have a passion / devotion for what he do which was a requirement back in the days for Doctors, police officers among other professions nowadays people just go to college for a degree no love whatsoever for what they do
Thank you for expressing that, I agree.
Mr. Duane is an excellent master technician who demonstrates the proper methodical way to diagnose an engine performance problem. Unfortunately, in the real world a dealership technician would have been ripped apart by everyone from the customer to the service adviser to the service manager. Try explaining that replacing 3 oxygen sensors and a cam synchronizer did not completely fix the main issue, and the technician would be walking with a limp mode for a week due to the arse chewing he just received. The job of a master tech is not an easy one, as this video clearly demonstrates. Great videos Mr. Duane, the automotive industry is in short supply of true astute talent such as yourself.
Robert Perez some time when you will find other factors that will be a problem but not fix it. Happens all the time and the customer really only cares his vehicle is working and stays that way. Not replacing the cam and O2 sensors as well would have been another trip back to the shop and having the customer upset because he would have asked why the tech didn't find that the first time. Thanks for the lesson on reading the graphics
Amen!
@@danielmcgilliss697 shut up! You know dam well he replaced those parts during his diagnosis. Fact is, he probably had his students do it.
Thank you for taking the time to respond. It's encouragement like yours that keeps me making these videos.
Duane
I'm having a limp in mode. Along with transmission codes on my 2002 ford ranger 4.0 with a 5r44e
Wish you could help me with my Ford Taurus. Its saying all kinds of codes. Its chirping its guts out. The last code was po17400 lean its suppose to be a vaccume leak. These cars aint what they use to be?
Oh my 8 years ago. Bless you
I find it adorable how the computer is trying to protect the engine. :D
Honestly, doing good things for their country
One of the students pulled that fuse after reading about the problem and wanted to see if Dwayne would be able to figure it out.
And if the person wanted to fix the truck and would have taken to some local mechanic, they would have tried to rebuild the transmission
Probably not to many real diagnostic guys left
This is a real mechanic and i well appreciate his instructions. I wish everyone was like him. My 2001 Doge Caravan is doing exactly the same thing. Now, i have to find this short or fuse that controls the limp mode. Any body know where it is?
Some poor sap gave away his car,cause he thought it was unfixable.ha ha
Thank for your time and effort to make this video. It is very informative and useful for car probelm diagnosis. Thanks.
Thanks to this videos we learn a great deal. God bless the Ones that share wisdom to the people
This was fun to watch, I love watching car shows, but they have as of late become more of a pimp my ride affair than a nuts and bolts how to show. I'm going to watch more! Thanks!
I can't get over who removed fuse 13 and why.
Also, he didn't throw parts at this vehicle. Through his inspection, he found other parts that were non-spec and problematic and replaced before further troubleshooting on the main problem can continue.
Throwing parts at it would be replacing known good parts. He replaced known bad parts (tested out of spec) that definitely should have been replaced. That is not throwing parts at it. This is a legit repair in my book as bad related parts can obfuscate the source of the main problem and cause other issues down the line. Of course, looking at the datastream would have been a good way to start.
o
I have a 2008 town and country that doing same thing but it's not the fuse it keeps tell me the “crankshaft position sensor” which we replaced and the o2 sensor and the cam shaft position sensor .Still doing the same thing
peachees i totally agree as would most real tech but explaining that to a service writer whos never picked up a tool in his life is an entire different animal.
peachees hello
Hello
open and closed loop are terms that describe how a computer controls something. In our case the engine. In open loop a fixed set of variable/inputs are used to produce a fixed output. Fuel values are normally fixed for a given RPM, MAP etc. In closed loop the computer looks at inputs (throttle,O2,temps,MAP,MAF,etc) and makes corrections and adjustments to the output (fuel, timing, etc) to control the engine. The switching of the O2 sensor output high/low is caused by the computer in closed loop
iTS THROTHLE CONTROL THRU THE TRANS SENSOR
Thanks for doing this. As a student, this was awesome, and I learned a lot. I don't have access to the resources you do, except at school, but they are closely guarded. I need access to that kind of data, the expensive scope and so on. I've got a little Craftsman code reader. Having those scanners would make my life easier. Also, it seems like a trouble-shooting method might catch some of these problems just by being thorough. Fuses turn out to be crucial in a lot of situations I have noticed. It was interesting the way you found the problem. Thanks again...!
You are welcome, Glad it helps and thanks for commenting
Great to see another video from you, Duane. By the way, starting at 11:30 to 12:30 it's hard to hear your voice over the engine. You could improve the video by typing in captions using the youtube editor -- no need to repost.
Nice to see you posting at the teaching shop -- good lighting!
Great video on limp mode. l will keep watching for more. Thanks
it was probably one of the codes you erased. since you worked on the engine a trans code would be a red flag. always good to write down or print off codes before erasing. in the real world this helps when you can show the customer at bill time
I had similar symptoms on a pre-computer car. It idled great and ran good at low speeds around 25 mph but as soon as I got to around 40 mph, it just didn't want to go any faster. I just had the engine rebuilt at a shop and returned it to them and they said they couldn't find anything wrong, so I took it to a second engine shop and they found that the first shop installed the wrong size main bearings. I had to take the first shop to small claims court to get my money back from them.
Great job people don't understand some time you have to go thru different parts to fix
Wait so did I miss it...what exactly WAS fuse 13?
I'm wondering that too.... its a hunted fuse
Wayne. Not only was this video full of information I just got a vehicle with them systems. Thanks
With all do respect. You have to be ( A ) "TECH"! to understand the prose's of Elimination AND Perfection That Separates A Technician From A JUNK HARD MECANIC THIS GUY IS PROFESINOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Welcome back Duane. I'v been looking at alot of your videos for past couple of weeks. I see you upgraded your camera. I can tell. I like how you used identfix to fill fuse 13. That is really I mean really good.
EXCELLENT Video & The ways its presented!! Moral of the story=?? Due to design of this ford- = "Dont Buy any -Ford Product"!! I'll stay GM!! Thanx again!
Wow. It is now April 23, 2020, and I still found this video interesting and very helpful! Thanks!
Glad it helped
as these old guys retire and die off it is getting hard to find young guys that have the same determination and logic and experience. some just want to make money as easy as possible. been ripped off by younger mechanics a few times. blatantly and they seem to think everyone is stupid but them. i can tell when ive been scammed and had lousy work.
this is great lol I wish I could donate my car and get yall to fix it......giving a ton of codes and when I fix something it pops another code back up
So where would a shop start with a 1994 Toyota v6 3,0 with looping idle when warmed up ? Just passed smog with great numbers. Onto a scope first ? No check engine light on.
Limp mode can be caused by a small rubber disc breaking off the brake pedal and the brake lights staying on. That would show up as driving over 50 with the brakes being mashed thius unsafe operation. Look for a dime sized rubber disc on the floor board first.
My 1995 Caprice was stuck in limp mold. Started throwing parts at it. Last part I checked was optnispark fancy word for disc reader well oil got on disc reader computer could not read timing. Car acted gutless like it was limping along. Oil rings failed engine oil got into plastic case.
I'm a dumbass, if you plug the thing in to you computer why didn't it find a tell you the problem O right away ? WTF why start at the end ?
Sounds exactly like the pt cruiser i had. We put every new part in history. A man told me the timing was off a cam. Noone paid it any mind because it was a new belt when i got a water pump. They didnt get the thing in right. It ruined my car.
What is a decent OBD code read to take a truck F250 out of limp mode? So many to choose from I’m not sure what’s the best to go with.
Never heard someone call limp mode, which is just a nickname it’s technically called derate, limp in mode. What’s it limping in?
This was possibly one of your best videos yet. . . a missing fuse, that's the last thing I was thinking.
all i can think is that dude who owned this vehicle made the right decision to get rid of it..can you imagine the bill for this work..geez
HI DUANE can you please tell me, where do you get your wiring diagrams?
This was a great video to watch. I just got my 99 Ranger 4.0L (same truck) back together after pulling the lower intake in search of an air leak (lean codes), while at the same time replacing the cam synchro, which was shrieking horribly. I don't know how on earth you got at the cam synchro to change it, but even with the upper intake off it still looked like a hell of a challenge. Never found the air leak but, reassembled with a new gasket set, it was fixed.
Any time you check a fusebox , you should be aware that you don't want to just add a fuse into any available location - as some vehicles are equipped with a fuse section which is specifically included to allow manufacturers to remove this fuse , so that battery drain is not possible during shipment (IE : overseas vehicles). Plus , there are also fuse locations which have an optional set of 3 pincers (1 position is for ON , and the other is for OFF). This is for the accessory 12V lighter socket
Love your videos very direct an point on lookin forward to more valuable lessons
Wow !!!
How cool is this video
The Sheriff caught the bad guy 😎
WTF? I wonder how much headache this would cost the mechanic. Definitely gonna try Identifix!
Its a good learning experience with these new computer ran crap cars. I like the good old days when the mechanic was the diagnostic
I put a new rebuild transmission in my 1999 durango and it won't shift but idles great
Great video absolutely fabulous only one thing hard to hear you with the motor running trying to find a way that you can be heard better but great video
Wow a simple overlooked fuse. Who would of thought to look there first before throwing parts at it.
I remember very well when I was going through school for this stuff the simple acronym of KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) was thrown around for process of elimination for diagnostics. It never ceases to amaze me that no matter how complex a problem can appear, the solution could be right in front of you and be as simple as the fix in this video. Excellent job!
What does "LOOP" mean? When it opens in gear and closes in neutral on the scanner
Outstanding video and many thanks for sharing : )
With all do respect. You have to be ( A ) "TECH"! to understand the prose's of Elimination AND Perfection That Separates A Technician From A JUNK HARD MECANIC THIS GUY IS PROFESINOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now the real mystery begins who took the fuse 13 and why? Was it another shop teacher So he could get the top position in the shop. Or was it a disgruntled student getting back for a bad grade, taking out my scan tool I discover it was sabotage... but who
And why?
The guy that donated the truck... that's my guess,... gave them something to learn them by
I hate to say it, but as a novice with very limited background, I would have found the problem in 3 to 5 minutes.
If the problem is not presented by noise, fluid leak or obnoxious odor, I always hit all the fuse boxes before doing anything else. I do the engine fuse box first only because its easier to work on, and controls the engine vitals. I just compare the box lid diagram to every fuse, and pull and visually check every fuse. Unless the position is labeled Optional, I'll make sure there is a working fuse of the labeled capacity in the slot.
If you have a $2,000 high tech scanner, you will start by using that first. If you are poor and ignorant, you start with the 3 or 4 fuse boxes and go from there. Such would have been better in this and most cases. The best advice a mechanic told me (only because I was a personal friend, and not in the industry) is that he'd lose his job as a master tech if people only checked the fuses before bringing their problems to him to diagnose. He starts with the missing or blown fuse (missing fuse means it was blown previously) and from there find out why it might have blown and test only the related components.
Its a Henry',,,built in problems 😅
The first thing I ALWAYS check is the fuse box... And that was the first thing I thought could be the problem.
Good day all, I have a 2008 Isuzu KB 300 D/C Turbo diesel that is stuck in limp mode. Went to GM and the say they '' Think it is the computer box '' but can't be sure till it is replaced and they want 5k for a new one. They told me that the reading its giving is at 5.5v and not at 5v like its supposed to be. which means it has too much air pressure which is causing limp mode and check engine light to stay on. What is happening is when in 1st gear the bakkie won't go over 20km/h, 2nd won't go over 40km/h, 3rd 60km/h, 4th 80km/h, 5th 100km/h. it also won't go over 2000 rev's when pushing accelerator. Any advise? Thanks
I have a 2010 Ford Ranger XLT 4X4 and i want too instal a 4" lift kit but i found out the is not recommended on 2010 models with Traction Control system because turning into a coner the truck will go into a limp mode. The question is WHY..?? Thank you..!!
you are Awesome thanx for your time!!!!
stupid technology .
Hey there,
I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana and it has the same issue. when I go onto the highway the vehicle runs smooth, but when it reaches 112 km/h (69.59 MP/h), the vehicle goes into limp mode like in the video. I cannot accelerate past that and the vehicle slows to around 100km/h, when it reaches that i regain control of acceleration and can reaccelerate but still cannot accelerate past 112km/h. i have checked and even changed fuses and i have changed everything from the: MAF Sensor, MAP Sensor, crankshaft position sensor, IAT Sensor, camshaft position sensor, both o2 sensors, and others,. Do you have an idea what the problem could be? I have wasted a lot of money and time and still haven't found the problem.
Also: I do not have an engine light, so i've been fixing this with just plain guessing.
Thanks.
It's amazing sometimes , 30+ students and master mechanics and we tend to over look a fuse .... I'm thinking that the maybe the students blew another fuse and replaced it with fuse 13 either forgetting to replace or thinking was not important... Biggest mistake was writing off all those initial codes after diagnostics were preformed , maybe best to research your web connections before replacing random items ... All those newbie students and no one looked at fuses ... Oops Entertaining video thank you. ....
Now the problem is to find out who pulled that fuse. .
My 06 GTO sat all winter. Took it for a drive today. Ran great for 10miles. Got home and it surged and knocked.
I have an 05 ford ranger 2.3l manual truck that has a misfire in cylinder 4 and is throwing a pcm fault code P0606 I've already replaced coil plugs and wires it's running really rough do u have any clue what is going on with it?
Just did teen through this yesterday, pissed me off, but luckily I was a block or 2 away from the auto shop.
I just had a transmission shop tell me i needed a 3000 dollar transmission because one selenoid failed to work for awhile and the fluid got cooked. I think it is the TPS or speed sensor or wiring. I cleaned up all my connections and grounds and pulled 6 qts of fluid and put in some lucas and lube guard red. The shop checked nothing but just looked at the fluid to make the call. Truck still works but you get the feeling it is the throttle position sensor giving bad data. with your foot off the gas it shows me 18% throttle?
Will Limp mode in a Dodge RAM truck cause it to not shift into any gear???
very possibly, limp mode tries to protect the engine by reducing power, transmission transmits power, so yes it could, but it would NOT cause it, it would be a byproduct of an engine problem
I have a 99 Ford Expedition 4.6 l with 220,000 miles... and when i am on the high around 75 mph it starts to click like valves or something. Can it be the timing chain?
hi sir, good day. i have problem with my hyundai santa fe classic CRDI 16v AT diesel engine gold edition. my engine wont go in 3000rpm. a bad start. but it change gear in normal way. when i step full in gas pedal and reaches 2800rpm it will not change gear and it look like he wont give me a full acces to the engine and transmission. it look like no power at all.. pls help me solve this problem. thank you and more power.
THANK YOU time to play with my AUTEL
Yes, we see that sort of nonsense from tow drivers and/or shifty shops on a regular basis here in LA... and it's getting worse all the time.
Some of them are fairly 'creative' in their ways & means.
It's sad really...
Your diagnostic videos are great. Thanks for all your effort. My only comment is Identifix must be expensive as they don't even seem to publish their subscription prices. So I'm guessing it's not something that's practical for the DIY guy. Obviously we can just use Google, UA-cam, etc. to try and search for solutions but Identifix really made your life easy in this case.
The Vulcan 3.0L engines that use a synchronizer (OBD-II cars) have the same problem as was shown at 7:00. Not one of Fords better designs...
I ALREADY HAS THIS PROBLEM WHEN I DID A TRANS SWAP ON MY EXPLORER, THE PLUG ON THE LEFT FRONT SIDE OF THE TRANS WAS HALF PLUGGED IN WHEN I THOUGHT IT WAS ALL THE WAY AND CAUSE ALL SORTS OF PROBS
AWESOME video! I have missed you guys!
with my Ford Fusion, i was going to limp mode while driving on highway, took to local dealer, they cleaned throttle body, still went into limp mode occaisionally, took to another dealer and they installed new throttle body/with tps, knew immediately what was problem, primarily not a dirty butterfly but whole unit, now works fine, diagnostics require talent, not a quest for money, first dealer wanted to bleed me for money, second in New Smyrna, Florida, performed fix on warranty.
so if the fuse was there and was blown what would be the problem ???????
***** No Mike, that was a stupid answer....What GG was asking is what would cause the fuse to blow.
Identifix? Wow they have been trying to get me to sign up for a few years now. I don't quite have enough big repairs or customers to support the monthly service payment yet but have needed to be able to consult a service like that a good number of times for technical info. Great video and diagnose process. Skeptics really need a video to view like this. Sometimes a vehicle can be so neglected that by the time it hits the shop, you have to correct a few issues before you can properly diagnose what the problem is. I've had an overheat condition with a head gasket replace that turned into a catalytic converter replace because the vacuum was slightly low and bogged down when revving. I've also had a spider fuel body replace job where the fuel pump had to be replaced first because the fuel pump was going bad (not to specs). Sometimes you can't even explain it to a customer ahead of time because they give you the eye. This video makes me feel proud and I don't even own a fancy scanner yet and have never been to a formal mechanic training.
I always scan first ,check fuses .Would have thought you would have done the scan test before replacing o2 sensors n timing shaft, even though shaft was bad.
Sometimes it's better to just go back to the basics. Throw all the diagnostics computers out, and address it the way we used to. The way we used to address it was to check the fuses first! Then if the basics don't cut it, follow up with the diagnostics equipment.
Hi thanks for the video, I have a truck that started with similar symptoms and after watching your video,I checked the fuse both in the cab and engine bay. All fuse looked OK but some had fine layer of coating, kind of brownish on the contact pin so I clean the contact pins and took the vehicle for test run and problem solved. thanks
Very hard to find a guy like this anywhere but especially where i am presently. It seems that hardly any of the shops have mechanics that went to school.School? they are backyard/home garage trained and then on the job at the shop from other guys that came up the same way and largely they are tossing darts in the dark and then turning the lights on and seeing what they hit. It is a shame that you see guys like this on line but do you think you can find one?
Great vid! Cases like these are awesome. Was there a pid for limp in mode status?
Probably from FSM's... Factory Service Manuals. Those are the best way to go, even though they're sometimes a bit pricey (ebay is a good place to find em cheap)
GM has a website for licensed GM techs where it has EVERYTHING but you need a GMID to get on that site. Used to be some free stolen GMID logins on the internet but they don't work anymore.
I have a 00 f 150 that wen you put the truck in drive stay in neutral I got to Press the gas pedal Hard to make the truck engaged ?any body out there know knows how to fix that
Best teacher we can ever have.
I'm new to computer based automotive technology and actually don't know anything about it. I bought a computer based car and am lost as to how things work. This video has been the world to me. Its a great explanation of how things work and how to... correctly... troubleshoot various issues. Great job. Sorry I'm living in another country
Replacing a missing fuse does not identify a problem. Coolant didn't " take out " 3 02's. Gammage, learn to spell.
Hi Duane, where is your school location?...
can this happen on a 96 2.3 manual transmission ranger? My truck does the exact same thing sound like
mate you can't title your video and go on for the hole video how it happened or how you picked it up or what you did b4 you fixed it ffs
How do you get a 2001 Jaguar XJ8 out of limp mode?
Last time i saw one of your videos you were in a shop working on cars Now you're at a school so i'm assuming you're a teacher now. Just wondering where are you teaching at Mr. Duane??
My observance of your scope settings, were O2S1and O2S2, STFT 1, STFT 2, Loop. 11 minutes into the video, after the O2S's heated up, and the PCM went into closed loop with no load on the engine. I became aware that when you snaped the throttle with the trans in park, there was a momentary spike into open loop. After replacing fuse #13 and the O2S's heated up, you performed another throttle snap and there was no momentary spike into open loop.
Thanks for the video! I had trouble understanding some of the dialog over the noise of the engine. If you want a good laugh, read the captions under the closed caption mode. It appears that those captions were generated by voice recognition software and they make a lot of errors. If those errors could be corrected, it would be a big help.
Someone needed a fuse and took one out of that truck thinking it was never gonna run again. My Guess.
Hell you could take a distributor stick in any which way, find where the rotor is pointed at with #1at tdc and go from there
Wow I have a 99 Ranger and have never seen limp in mode. Thanks a lot for showing it to me. Do Chevy, Nissan, Honda, and Toyota also have limp in modes? This is a really great video.
I have a 1998 ford explorer 4wheel drive Eddie Bauer it only dies when I put into drive