Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge, ability and experience, what you create out of hot metal is absolutely amazing... The way you share details, like in the bottom fuller video lite taps after a hard blow, the constant brushing off the hot metal... it's details like that, that are left unsaid, that deserves a huge... THANKS!!!!. I am a retired 70 year old man trying his ability at forging... I built a coal forge last summer ( a nice one I'd like to add) and have come to learn building a forge is much easier then forging its self... LOL You are a true professional. It would be great to see you in Cody Wyoming someday, I'd like to watch in person what you make look so easy on you tube... Thank you again.
You guys make it look so easy. Just watching this two part series has taught me a whole lot about technique. I hope you do a series on finishing and heat treating.
I came here when Alec Steele mentioned you on his video. I ran across some of your videos and man, you have many likes way more than dislikes. please continue doing blacksmith on camera. I love it, people love it and never stop chasing your dreams because you don't know what you will do one day will make your channel bloom and make subscriptions go crazy.
More, more more!!! Thank you. I would love to make a hammer and tools one day. I love how calm and efficient every move is. I don't know how, but it's exciting to watch a tool come alive, but relaxing at the same time.
Brian, will you do a final video on how you heat treat your hammers? It's a rare subject and full of guessing... your take on it would be very appreciated.
Nathan Leaming it should be coming up soon. I'm just the guy that does the forging. I finally found someone who was willing and able to do the computer stuff.
I was going to ask the same thing! Was the hammer quenched just then or cooled first and hardened later? If it was quenched was it normalized before tempering or not tempered at all?
Mona Bale I still use my students hammers. I have a collection of my students hammers I will never sell. I've sold every hammer I've ever made or given them away.
Yes I see how you pick the workpiece up off of any cold part of the Hardy block or Anvil after each hit I can see that sucks up a lot of heat. I have lost lots of weight in Forge scale with the hammers I've made that makes a lot of sense thank you very much sir
Jered Phillips I'm not exactly sure. That video was taken several years ago. But for most of the first hammers I made with people after 2012, I would start with 2" × 4 1/2" of 1045. That cut weighs right at 4 pounds before it is heated. After forging mine usually weigh 3 3/4+pounds when I have an experienced striker like Lyle Wynn in the video. On a students first day they will usually weigh about 3 2/3 pounds because they usually take a few more heats to punch or I may give them 1 or 2 extra heats to improve the hammer. Most of the weight loss comes from oxidation where the scale forms from heating.
Fantastic video! A while ago, I asked you about the grades of steel you use in your tongs. You said mild steel. If a tool is used for hot work, such as fullering, cupping tools, drifts or hot cutting tools, would you recommend mild steel? Thank again. Jerry
Fossils etc. Mild is fine for some tongs like the ones in my first video, but not for all tongs. The hammer tongs in this video are made from coil spring. Mild steel would not hold up well for the tools to make tools. Most of them are made from medium carbon steel.
I've made a few handled hammer eye punches like you have taught and it's making a nice hole for me to start my drift it's just not pushing that negative plug out like your videos show .. just wanted to see the negative come out like everyone else that makes the hammers
Hello Brian huge fan and your Hammer making Style has allowed me to make my rounding Hammer so much better thank you for that. I just can't seem to get the negative to punch out like you do my punch just basically punches a hole is my hammer eye punch tip to Sharp maybe it needs to be more blunt?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Nice Brian, saw in comments below about the tapping with rasp on the hammer, and have never seen anyone file the ends of the hammer while forging, does this give a better finish at the end? Love your work mate.
Thanks Brian, so that's what that term means, heard people mention that term. It's like lot's of things isn't it, you take that bit of extra time with the work and to ensure it comes out to the best that you can make it..
In part 1 of this I asked about fuller size for the troughs, I would also like to know what size fuller you are using.on the cheeks when your planishing out the heavy lines from the cheek drawing. I'm guessing maybe 2"-2-1/2" faces in the Fuller's
Mitchel Perkins that one was made from a swage that was made from a 3" fuller, but it is probably under 2" wide because I know it is only slightly over 2" long. This video was taken before 2012 I believe. I just recently found someone willing to help me put these on. I use an even bigger fuller for the last several years for myself. This size was made in the tools to make tools classes I used to offer.
Brian Brazeal Thanks again Brian. Ive made my top and bottom tools now all the way from. 3/8" up to 2-1/2" in 1/2" increments. Lots of work but all will several a purpose. Hope you had a great Thanksgiving.
Yep, getting the little bits of scale off and not driving g them into the faces makes a much cleaner forging, and saves alot of time.dressing the faces.
nomaad660 yep, chipping scale. I am emphasizing it more in this video than I normally do. Take a look at the faced in the end, then check out others before they are ground.
Will M. It is to remove bits of scale the brush didn't get off so you don't drive into the faces when releasing the drift. Not only is he releasing the drift from the eye, but they are also planishing the faces smooth using the flatter on the flat die face and the cupping tool on the round die face. It saves time.not.having to grind so deep into the face to get a really smooth surface prior to hardening. Clean forging practices make.cleaner finished work. Brian does the cleanest forging to finish I've seen.
Redman42"s that would depend on the size of hammer you are wanting to make. For a 2 pound farriers hammer I start with 3 3/4 inches of 1 5/8 inch round stock. For a 3 3/4 pound hammer I start with 4 1/2 inches of 2 inch round stock. I only take a certain number of heats to make a hammer. If you take more heats, you will not end up with the same weight. You lose most of the weight to scale.
Moe Stuegil for most of the hardy tools 4140 is the best material choice because of its availability and toughness. For hammers I prefer 1045 for its ease of forging and it is hardened in water.
How would I go about forging the cup for the rounding face if I don’t already have a rounding hammer that size? Do you have a video and if not would you be willing to make one?
Why are the cheeks narrowed? Is it because a miss hit will result with a sort of deflection at a dangerous angle. (Into a shin or some other soft part) Or are you increasing the amount of steel that will hold the handle? Or maybe something else entirely?
John Wawrysh they are to add surface area contact with the handle to help distribute stress. Alfred Habermann called them the " house for the handle". These are even more important on top tools with handles. A struck tool is put through even more stresses than a hammer.
When making struck tools do you only drive the drift from one side, rather than hour-glassing the hole? I typically don’t wedge my top tool handles so they can be easily replaced.
Brian Campbell first you develop the cheeks evenly, by drifting and cheeking one side and then the other. After you're satisfied, then you go all the way with the drift from one side. Top tools should not have hour glass holes. The hole should taper in one direction so it supports the handle. This makes it easier to rework them when needed and replacing handles.
offerfish12 several people are making them now, and several people can help you make one yourself now, too. Do a Google search and check out Facebook. This has gone worldwide since I started showing others back in 2008.
Thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge, ability and experience, what you create out of hot metal is absolutely amazing... The way you share details, like in the bottom fuller video lite taps after a hard blow, the constant brushing off the hot metal... it's details like that, that are left unsaid, that deserves a huge... THANKS!!!!. I am a retired 70 year old man trying his ability at forging... I built a coal forge last summer ( a nice one I'd like to add) and have come to learn building a forge is much easier then forging its self... LOL
You are a true professional. It would be great to see you in Cody Wyoming someday, I'd like to watch in person what you make look so easy on you tube...
Thank you again.
You are very welcome.
You guys make it look so easy. Just watching this two part series has taught me a whole lot about technique. I hope you do a series on finishing and heat treating.
It is super cool to see the lightning flash off your anvil and hear the vibration after every hit!!! One of the best videos I’ve seen yet in YT
That is beautiful!
It was nice to see this done without power hammers and belt grinders.
I came here when Alec Steele mentioned you on his video. I ran across some of your videos and man, you have many likes way more than dislikes. please continue doing blacksmith on camera. I love it, people love it and never stop chasing your dreams because you don't know what you will do one day will make your channel bloom and make subscriptions go crazy.
More, more more!!! Thank you. I would love to make a hammer and tools one day. I love how calm and efficient every move is. I don't know how, but it's exciting to watch a tool come alive, but relaxing at the same time.
excellent video. I think this channel is criminally under subscribed.
So awesome! Beautiful work! One hell of a striker you got there! Thanks! Great work!
Zach Mendelson that was Lyle Wynn.
Your technique, accuracy and patience are very inspiring, thanks Brian Happy Thanksgiving
I love it that you're putting up videos again. Please, keep it up!
Thank you for the excellent video. You are an exceptional teacher.
Love watching, but would be great to hear more comments as to why things are done the way they are.
Jason Brooks ask me any questions.
Brian Brazeal May I ask what kind of forge you're currently using ?
The joy of his videos is that he doesn't talk and isn't doing some song and dance. Pure instruction..
Masterful work. Now I see why Alec Steele speaks so highly of you
Brian, will you do a final video on how you heat treat your hammers? It's a rare subject and full of guessing... your take on it would be very appreciated.
Nathan Leaming it should be coming up soon. I'm just the guy that does the forging. I finally found someone who was willing and able to do the computer stuff.
Same would be great to see that. Thanks for both videos!
I was going to ask the same thing! Was the hammer quenched just then or cooled first and hardened later? If it was quenched was it normalized before tempering or not tempered at all?
So cool. Glad to get to see this!
Brian, hope the journey to Kenya is going great!!! Excited to see some new content from there as well!!
Keenan Dunnigan it's going well. We just about have it all set up and ready to go.
Awesome!! Take care and safe travels!
aww, you were using a hammer made by one of your students at one point. that is soo kind!
Mona Bale I still use my students hammers. I have a collection of my students hammers I will never sell. I've sold every hammer I've ever made or given them away.
Yes I see how you pick the workpiece up off of any cold part of the Hardy block or Anvil after each hit I can see that sucks up a lot of heat. I have lost lots of weight in Forge scale with the hammers I've made that makes a lot of sense thank you very much sir
Redman42"s you're welcome.
Beautiful work as always sir.im just curious what type/size of steel did you start with and whats the weight of the hammer you made?
Jered Phillips I'm not exactly sure. That video was taken several years ago. But for most of the first hammers I made with people after 2012, I would start with 2" × 4 1/2" of 1045. That cut weighs right at 4 pounds before it is heated. After forging mine usually weigh 3 3/4+pounds when I have an experienced striker like Lyle Wynn in the video. On a students first day they will usually weigh about 3 2/3 pounds because they usually take a few more heats to punch or I may give them 1 or 2 extra heats to improve the hammer. Most of the weight loss comes from oxidation where the scale forms from heating.
Brian Brazeal awesome thanks for taking time to reply Mr.Brazeal.I appreciate you and your content!
Jered Phillips you're welcome and thank you.
Sweet! Thanks again Brian for uploading! Happy thanksgiving!
Fantastic video! A while ago, I asked you about the grades of steel you use in your tongs. You said mild steel. If a tool is used for hot work, such as fullering, cupping tools, drifts or hot cutting tools, would you recommend mild steel? Thank again. Jerry
Fossils etc. Mild is fine for some tongs like the ones in my first video, but not for all tongs. The hammer tongs in this video are made from coil spring.
Mild steel would not hold up well for the tools to make tools. Most of them are made from medium carbon steel.
Ok I will try a different grind thanks for the insight
I've made a few handled hammer eye punches like you have taught and it's making a nice hole for me to start my drift it's just not pushing that negative plug out like your videos show .. just wanted to see the negative come out like everyone else that makes the hammers
Redman42"s the angle of your grind is probably too steep.
Hello Brian huge fan and your Hammer making Style has allowed me to make my rounding Hammer so much better thank you for that. I just can't seem to get the negative to punch out like you do my punch just basically punches a hole is my hammer eye punch tip to Sharp maybe it needs to be more blunt?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Redman42"s it sounds like it's acting like a chisel instead of a punch if I'm understanding what you are saying.
What were you checking for when you tapped the hammer face with the rasp?
I'm chipping off the scale that did not come off.
Nice Brian, saw in comments below about the tapping with rasp on the hammer, and have never seen anyone file the ends of the hammer while forging, does this give a better finish at the end? Love your work mate.
Lenblacksmith look at the finished hammer then you tell me.:)
Yeah from what I can see, it just looks smooth and a nice clean finish on it.
Lenblacksmith forged to finish.
Thanks Brian, so that's what that term means, heard people mention that term. It's like lot's of things isn't it, you take that bit of extra time with the work and to ensure it comes out to the best that you can make it..
Lenblacksmith yep, forged to finish, get as close as you can to the finished product.
A thing of beauty
In part 1 of this I asked about fuller size for the troughs, I would also like to know what size fuller you are using.on the cheeks when your planishing out the heavy lines from the cheek drawing. I'm guessing maybe 2"-2-1/2" faces in the Fuller's
Mitchel Perkins that one was made from a swage that was made from a 3" fuller, but it is probably under 2" wide because I know it is only slightly over 2" long.
This video was taken before 2012 I believe. I just recently found someone willing to help me put these on. I use an even bigger fuller for the last several years for myself. This size was made in the tools to make tools classes I used to offer.
Brian Brazeal Thanks again Brian.
Ive made my top and bottom tools now all the way from. 3/8" up to 2-1/2" in 1/2" increments.
Lots of work but all will several a purpose.
Hope you had a great Thanksgiving.
Beautiful, great video
Happy Thanksgiving !
Thanks Brian! I never hot rasped a hammer. I will begin doing it today. Obvious and brilliant.
KillerKane I'm just knocking off scale, not really rasping. I am emphasizing it quite a bit more in this video than I normally would.
What was the purpose of tapping the face of the work with the edge of your rasp? Thanks for the vid. Always enjoy watching your work!
I believe he is breaking pieces of scale off.
Looked like he was chipping at some stubborn scale.
Wondering the same thing, I assume it's to remove some stubborn scale from the face.
Yep, getting the little bits of scale off and not driving g them into the faces makes a much cleaner forging, and saves alot of time.dressing the faces.
nomaad660 yep, chipping scale. I am emphasizing it more in this video than I normally do. Take a look at the faced in the end, then check out others before they are ground.
What are u listening for or looking at when u tap the file edge on the face?
Will M.
It is to remove bits of scale the brush didn't get off so you don't drive into the faces when releasing the drift. Not only is he releasing the drift from the eye, but they are also planishing the faces smooth using the flatter on the flat die face and the cupping tool on the round die face. It saves time.not.having to grind so deep into the face to get a really smooth surface prior to hardening.
Clean forging practices make.cleaner finished work. Brian does the cleanest forging to finish I've seen.
Mitchel Perkins
Thanks Mitchel. Good answer.
Hello Brian I was wondering for your rounding hammers what size Billet do you start with for the round stock
Redman42"s that would depend on the size of hammer you are wanting to make. For a 2 pound farriers hammer I start with 3 3/4 inches of 1 5/8 inch round stock. For a 3 3/4 pound hammer I start with 4 1/2 inches of 2 inch round stock. I only take a certain number of heats to make a hammer. If you take more heats, you will not end up with the same weight. You lose most of the weight to scale.
What steel is good for hardy tools an hammers thank you
Moe Stuegil for most of the hardy tools 4140 is the best material choice because of its availability and toughness. For hammers I prefer 1045 for its ease of forging and it is hardened in water.
How would I go about forging the cup for the rounding face if I don’t already have a rounding hammer that size? Do you have a video and if not would you be willing to make one?
Why are the cheeks narrowed? Is it because a miss hit will result with a sort of deflection at a dangerous angle. (Into a shin or some other soft part) Or are you increasing the amount of steel that will hold the handle? Or maybe something else entirely?
John Wawrysh they are to add surface area contact with the handle to help distribute stress. Alfred Habermann called them the " house for the handle". These are even more important on top tools with handles. A struck tool is put through even more stresses than a hammer.
That's good Brian, never knew that. Thank you so much for all your help.
When making struck tools do you only drive the drift from one side, rather than hour-glassing the hole? I typically don’t wedge my top tool handles so they can be easily replaced.
Brian Campbell first you develop the cheeks evenly, by drifting and cheeking one side and then the other. After you're satisfied, then you go all the way with the drift from one side. Top tools should not have hour glass holes. The hole should taper in one direction so it supports the handle. This makes it easier to rework them when needed and replacing handles.
Did you shoot this video at walnut cut forge?
Oh how i'd love one your hammers Brian. Great video, have you done one for the heat treating yet?
The heat treating and handling was filmed the same day as the making of that hammer. The sound it bad because of the wind that day.
@@BrianBrazealBlacksmith So there should be a video on it.
@@BrianBrazealBlacksmith Looked and can't find a video on treating and handling.
@@lenblacksmith8559 there is, but the sound is no good.
Brian Brazeal ok thanks Brian
Exellent video! What steel did you use? And how did you heat treat it?
iCanHazTwentyLetters I used 1045. I hardened in water and drew at temper to straw on the faces and blue in the cheeks.
Thank you, sir!
Great work guys! I wish that hammer was for me😉 happy thanksgiving dow n there!
I kan watch People Forge for days you now what you want wen jou are forging B.👍pat from Belgium 🔪⚒️
how can one aquire one of these? i'd love a 3 - 3 1/2 pound one.
offerfish12 several people are making them now, and several people can help you make one yourself now, too. Do a Google search and check out Facebook. This has gone worldwide since I started showing others back in 2008.
Nice hammer sir . Love the flatter cheeks.
That "nasty thunder" sounds more like trash cans being thrown around.
lebomm johnson that was actually branches hitting the tin building. it was a windy day.
Do you run the fire on gas or coal/coke?
Rusty Pearson I use coal or coke.
Nice
great content brian! and dont forget im waiting for my hammer ;)
I'm curious how this would be done solo. I don't exactly have a partner that will help me with this right now.
You can get machines to work with.
👍👍🤘👍👍