I just wanted to say thank you for this video series. It helped me immensely fixing my 99 Starcraft that had corrosion and pin holes. Like you, I'm pretty handy with this kind of thing, but seeing it done by someone as talented as you are was very helpful. I also wanted to say that the Gflex epoxy is amazing stuff! I could not believe how well this thing glued together and how insanely tough that epoxy is. I still have to reskim a couple of holes that the glue oozed out to much, but I have complete confidence that this transom will be incredibly strong and water tight once complete. Thank you!
I appreciate that. It’s been slow up to this point, only working on it a hour here and a hour there. But it’s about to be kicked in high gear. Springs coming lol.
Gracias , gran talento el de usted. tengo un bote de aluminio duracraft 15 ft y me motive a arreglar su "transom" con este video , muchas gracias! un saludo desde Puerto rico!
In your comments you said you used 1/16 on the inside and 1/8 on the outside however in you 2nd video you stated that the piece on the outside is 3/16. Just checking if you added in total 3/16 or 3/16 as the back piece Your a talented and patient man Thanks Bull
I used a self etching primer after cleaning surface with vinegar and a stainless wire brush. Then used implement paint from tractor supply. Warning, it dries super slow. It takes days to cure. But it’s pretty tough. I also use automotive paint if the weather allows. My other bait was shot with auto paint
Im doing the same to my boat due to the corrosion i dont have it as bad as you do with all the pin holes just where the back had a piece of wood to make up the thickness of the motor
hello jeff that looks great. i know im a couple years late but i just found your video. i have a 16 ft boat that the back 4 feet of floor looks just like your transom did. ive been contemplating how to fix it and make it useable. i was considering laminating a new floor skin with 5200 but this looks even better. how has it held up and would you still recommend the product?
I’ve used this product on several boats over the years. My main boat is the 21’ Starcraft. I replaced the transom skin using it. It’s been 8 years with no issues.
@@bowl830 wow thats great. thank you for the information. i think ill try to repair the floor of my boat with it. maybe in combination of some type of slick coating epoxy for the underside.
I am thinking of switching a few of them freeway signs telling you the fast food places and using them. 🤔 ahah 😂 no really. I thought there was no wood in the transom. Damnit I just bought a 94 17 pro v now I got to check it
Sorry if I’m late to the party here, what type of epoxy did you use to bind the skin to the transom? I’m about to do the same for my aluminum boat and struggling to figure out the best type of 2 part epoxy
@@bowl830 I ordered GFlex 650 thinking it was 655, I'm going to mix a bit and see if it'll work for the vertical application. If not i see there is 406 colloidal silica i can add to thicken a bit. I'm currently doing the same skin job to my 18' springbok but i'm only adding an outer skin. I hope its adequate. Thank you so much for these videos, without your visual assistance i would have had no idea where to start!
I used vinegar to clean and etch then sanded it with 80grit to get a good surface for the epoxy to bond to. Before I epoxy I clean it with denatured alcohol
Yeah i will see what i can do the places where it had the wood piece on the back they over tightened the bolts and etc and the side bolts also pulled it in a little
My son & I recently bout an old 1987 Blue Fin Fish & Ski 17' great boat, except for that damn corrosion, Plywood transom was wet, rotting, Inner Transom Aluminum skin is shot huge corrosion holes, I can make new skin for the inner it's flat. but the AFT skin I can't make cause i can't bend it for the radius cause I have no (brake) bender machine. that said, AFT transom skin is at .090" original thickness it has some flaking corrosion now but after I blast it with garnet, I am confident I will have strong good remaining thickness. then I will rough up the surface, Alodine 1200 (acid etch) Fill the dips and pits from the corrosion in with Marine Tex (3M) use a good Zinc Chromate primer Enamel paint. we got marine plywood and will use west 105 epoxy to coat the new wood transom so that it can't rot away again. If after I garnet blast with a spot blaster and i feel remaining thickness is too thin then I will 100% sandwich the AFT skin just as you did it... Great info your putting out I never would have thought of doing that, look like a great repair.
Awesome video, exactly what I was looking for, I found your channel through a comment you made in a starcraft group on Facebook. I am going to be doing the same thing on my 1967 starcraft holiday 18'. Going to be using 1/4" for the outside skin and probably 1/16 for the inside. I plan on putting a larger engine than what the boat is technically rated for (86 Johnson 150). Your video on installing solid rivets was very helpful as well. The only question that comes to mind now is wont the backside of the rivets installed to sandwich the pieces together interfere with the new transom wood? TIA
Most your air tool suppliers can get them. I got mine from a place in Charlotte. I buy them in bulk when I can find them lol I had thought about putting together kits with a rivet assortment and the tools.
I'm going to do this same process. The drain plug on my starcraft is off center and not at lowest point and has old epoxy around it. What would be best method to remove old and install new drain plug hole?
I left mine in the location it was. It won’t hurt to have a little water in the bilge under most conditions. I try to always keep holes away from edges and seams. I would go back with a aluminum one and use a quality epoxy or sealer. They make a after one made from plastic as well. It looks like a through hull fitting with a rubber gasket
I have an 1860 aluminum flat bottom and the bottom looks like Swiss cheese. I am planning on replacing the entire hull. The boat is super thin 1/16 I believe. I was going to use 3/16 5052 for the hull but is that overkill or will 1/8 be plenty good? Thank you in advance.
Im on hr 7 of it being clamped waiting to pull it off i had a good amount or oozing everywhere all around and in between waiting for it to be all to be hardened
I went a little over board with the amount i out on both pieces but i sandwiched it together and it oozed all over the place i cleaned it as good as i could will have to do some sanding to level it all 😊
I’m working a boat refurbishment and need to do something like this BUT I have rivets on the rear of my boat all long the edge. It looks like you’re working a smooth edge. How would you modify the process? Just make it fit the smaller section?
This one has rivets also. That doesn’t affect the epoxy that much. The heads of mine only were 1/16” high. But yes you could cut it to just fit the inside of the river footprint. I appreciate you watching and taking time to comment
@@bowl830 no problem and thanks for the quick reply. So this one had rivets along the edge and you just placed the sheets (internal and external) over the rivet head and tail and accepted the gap along the edge that would create? Because when I look at the seam at the bottom of the boat before you add the external sheet it looks completely flat. Just want to make sure I’m not gonna do something that messes up my great grandfathers boat. Or is it best like I said to just cut a smaller section to fit within those existing rivets? Thanks again.
Mine had some pitting in the rivets around the perimeter so I just went over them.if my outer rivets were in good shape I would have went just inside them with the new skin.
@@bowl830 just thought I’d let you know it went well. I have both skins epoxied in and the second one is currently clamped/screwed in and they’re both curing. Cold here so I’m giving it a full 48 hours with a heater directly on them. This looks so good and much much better than what was there when I started. Such bad corrosion. This will get my great grandfathers boat back on the water for me and my children and hopefully there’s as well.
Is there a purpose for the angle aluminum that sits under the transom wood? My aluminum angle is eaten up and I’m thinking of removing it and making transom wood a little taller. I appreciate your input.
It acts like a bottom support and a side to side stiffener. If it’s real bad you can buy 2” Z CHANNEL and just cut a new one. I would do that rather than not use one.
@@bowl830 cool. I really appreciate all the help you’ve given me on my boat build. Sometimes it gets very overwhelming, so it’s nice to receive input. God bless.
I’m on the fence about repainting whole boat. I use commercial grade automotive paint with a good epoxy etching primer first. My other boat was painted 6 years ago and the paint held up great.
I used farm implement paint on the outer transom of this one just to see how it did. It dried slick as glass. Not sure how it will hold up. I used the type in spray cans from Tractor Supply. I’m just curious lol
I am messing with an old Sylvan that for some reason has 38 drilled holes in the transom skin, I was just going to skin the inside and fill the outside with brazing. Other than "more is better", is there a particular reason you skinned both sides?
I buy in bulk when I find them. I get mine from a supplier in Charlotte nc. I’m trying to get them to offer a kit that has a assortment of rivets and the tool to install them. And offer them for sale
So the little space between the new wood and the transom that is created by the bucking rivets is a good thing and is okay to have? I will be doing the exact same thing that you did to this boat with my personal so I am trying to study up.
and this is why a riveted boat is crap. you need sealant in every single rivet or they will let go and leak over time. nothing to stop them leaking especially if done like this as there is not anywhere near enough pressure being put on the back side to make them a proper tight fit.. only good way to do a rivet like this is hydraulic pressure on both sides of the rivets, but still needs asealant in between or will let in water and rot away.. if doing rivets like this atleast do them before the epoxy goes off, then there is a chance to get a bondaround then and maybe squeeze a bit of epoxy out of the rivet holes would be good.... he done a great job , but no way would i have put any rivets back in and weaken a great job .
Respectfully. They don’t put sealer on rivets from the factory. Secondly a Sealer will actually prevent a good seal and weaken the rivet. As for hydraulic squeezer. A impact hammer provides just as much or more force, Just a slower process. Rarely are squeezers used to make repairs even in the aeronautical industry 3 rd. The weight on the inside doesn’t have to be heavy, these are aluminum rivets I could have got by with far less. The most important thing you were wrong on is riveted boats being crap. There are millions of 40-50 year old riveted boats around. Why! Because they are actually superior to a welded boat. Rivets flex and move where a weld won’t. There’s a reason airplanes are mostly riveted. But I do appreciate you watching and commenting thank you.
Hey jeff, u mentioned about fixing the small spot in your haul, I cant find any videos of this. Could u point me in the right direction of this job. Thanks. Great job
I've done lots of solid riveting but didnt understand your comment about creating an "interior gap to allow water wicking" ???WT.....I've redone transoms too. Why would you "design" a hollow transom to take in and hold water? When you say "wicking" that is a real boat builders worst nightmare. The idea is to keep water out. Just fill, clamp, and seal the entire assembly incuding the top edge where water would enter. Not to be rude but your application and use of epoxy was poorly planned, not prepped or clamped properly. After the video cut, you return with a clamped bar (or level?) obviously realizing later that individual clamps on glue backed aluminum skin is creating uneven clamping pressure dents. I feel if people are making "instructional" videos they should be doing it the right way. Epoxy is two-part and VERY time sensitive depending on formulation. Setting up drip masking and looking for clamp bars AFTER its been mixed and applied is not ideal. Likely a very poor bond in there with such light, and late clamping, screws, then rivets. Overmanipulation of the sheet and material recieving the screws and rivets. In my opinion. Next time use a bunch of long reach clamps with boards to evenly distribute the bonding pressure, attempt to eliminate water entrapping voids and cavities within. Where I live many people ocean fish with increased hull pressures and splash exposure from rough water. A strong transom is the backbone of a safe seaworthy boat. And where does your "wicked transom water" exit??? Did you install a second drain bung tapped into the inside of you r transom? The time spent making your video could (should) have been put into clamping it up properly and preparing for wet epoxy, before dealing with wet eopoxy. Has always been rule #1 in two-part application 101. But good job otherwise.
Well thanks for your long comment. I appreciate the feedback. You misinterpreted what I was talking about. No the transom does not wick water and is in fact is 100% waterproof and solid. I was talking about the fact that the backside rivets do protrude out causing a 1/8” void for people to not be concerned over that fact cause If anything it allows air and any water that gets between the skin and transom to wick out. You can seal the top all you want but moisture will get in on aluminum boats. Fiberglass is a different situation. Yes you can use bar clamps and while it was curing I had several in place. But the clamping force of a screw is well over 200# of force. So it’s plenty to squeeze the layers to get a permanent bond. The cure time of the Epoxy I was using is 45minutes at the temperature it was applied so I had plenty of time. The most important part is prep. Again I do appreciate the feedback. Next time I will try to be more inclusive on the smaller details. You got a sharp eye. Thanks for taking time to watch and comment
I just wanted to say thank you for this video series. It helped me immensely fixing my 99 Starcraft that had corrosion and pin holes. Like you, I'm pretty handy with this kind of thing, but seeing it done by someone as talented as you are was very helpful. I also wanted to say that the Gflex epoxy is amazing stuff! I could not believe how well this thing glued together and how insanely tough that epoxy is. I still have to reskim a couple of holes that the glue oozed out to much, but I have complete confidence that this transom will be incredibly strong and water tight once complete. Thank you!
That’s awesome I appreciate the kind words. Thank you for watching and commenting
Dang you got some talent.. Man id like a 1st hand look at this build. Thanks for sharing Jeff
I appreciate that. It’s been slow up to this point, only working on it a hour here and a hour there. But it’s about to be kicked in high gear. Springs coming lol.
@@bowl830 I saw Robins in my yard today up here in WV, spring is coming! We know it is here when the Buzzards show back up. --no kidding
Best aluminum boat transom repair vid on UA-cam .
Thank you I truly appreciate you watching and commenting
This video was very helpful for me.I have the same boat with the same problem and was thinking of how to repair it when your video popped up.Great job
Thank you. This boat was a mess lol but it’s going to be amazing when finished I hope. Good luck with your project
Gracias , gran talento el de usted. tengo un bote de aluminio duracraft 15 ft y me motive a arreglar su "transom" con este video , muchas gracias! un saludo desde Puerto rico!
Thank you for watching and commenting gracias
God willing, may God bless you
Good stuff Jeff! I am fully invested in this build now ;) Happy Fishing!
Thanks for posting! You sure did a nice job!
Thank you sir I appreciate you watching and commenting
In your comments you said you used 1/16 on the inside and 1/8 on the outside however in you 2nd video you stated that the piece on the outside is 3/16.
Just checking if you added in total 3/16 or 3/16 as the back piece
Your a talented and patient man
Thanks Bull
I added 3/16th to the back. Thank you for the kind words. I appreciate you watching and commenting
Thanks for sharing have a blessed day in the name of Jesus
Boat looks great what type of paint and corrison product did you paint tjhe transom with???
I used a self etching primer after cleaning surface with vinegar and a stainless wire brush. Then used implement paint from tractor supply. Warning, it dries super slow. It takes days to cure. But it’s pretty tough. I also use automotive paint if the weather allows. My other bait was shot with auto paint
Great vids learning lots. Attempting the same transom repair.
How much g flex did you use?
I buy it by the gallon lol. I think it took almost 2 quarts to do all layers
Im doing the same to my boat due to the corrosion i dont have it as bad as you do with all the pin holes just where the back had a piece of wood to make up the thickness of the motor
Very well done sir.
Interesting video.
apologies if missed but what gauge ALU did you use?? 16?? Great video and thanks for sharing! 👍
Yes sir. 16 on the outside skin and 20 on the inner skin of transom.
hello jeff that looks great. i know im a couple years late but i just found your video. i have a 16 ft boat that the back 4 feet of floor looks just like your transom did. ive been contemplating how to fix it and make it useable. i was considering laminating a new floor skin with 5200 but this looks even better. how has it held up and would you still recommend the product?
I’ve used this product on several boats over the years. My main boat is the 21’ Starcraft. I replaced the transom skin using it. It’s been 8 years with no issues.
@@bowl830 wow thats great. thank you for the information. i think ill try to repair the floor of my boat with it. maybe in combination of some type of slick coating epoxy for the underside.
I'm having to do the same thing on my deep v 17 I bought what thickness of aluminum did you use for your skins?
The inner piece is 1/16. I used 1/8” on the outside.
I am thinking of switching a few of them freeway signs telling you the fast food places and using them. 🤔 ahah 😂 no really. I thought there was no wood in the transom. Damnit I just bought a 94 17 pro v now I got to check it
I’ve used freeway signs before. Not joking. I made some planner boards out of them lol 😂
Sorry if I’m late to the party here, what type of epoxy did you use to bind the skin to the transom? I’m about to do the same for my aluminum boat and struggling to figure out the best type of 2 part epoxy
I’ve had great results with G-flex.
@@bowl830 I ordered GFlex 650 thinking it was 655, I'm going to mix a bit and see if it'll work for the vertical application. If not i see there is 406 colloidal silica i can add to thicken a bit. I'm currently doing the same skin job to my 18' springbok but i'm only adding an outer skin. I hope its adequate. Thank you so much for these videos, without your visual assistance i would have had no idea where to start!
@@mvanek awesome. Glad I could help
What did you use to clean the aluminum before you put epoxy down
I used vinegar to clean and etch then sanded it with 80grit to get a good surface for the epoxy to bond to. Before I epoxy I clean it with denatured alcohol
How straight was your transom mine isnt perfectly straigght
@@anthonyaviles8665 mine is perfectly straight
Im going to straighten is as best ad i can
Yeah i will see what i can do the places where it had the wood piece on the back they over tightened the bolts and etc and the side bolts also pulled it in a little
Can you put mushroom on the inside and use the air hammer the flatten the outside?
I wouldn’t. You want the most surface area on the outside
My son & I recently bout an old 1987 Blue Fin Fish & Ski 17' great boat, except for that damn corrosion, Plywood transom was wet, rotting, Inner Transom Aluminum
skin is shot huge corrosion holes, I can make new skin for the inner it's flat. but the AFT skin I can't make cause i can't bend it for the radius cause I have no (brake) bender machine. that said, AFT transom skin is at .090" original thickness it has some flaking corrosion now but after I blast it with garnet, I am confident I will have strong good remaining thickness. then I will rough up the surface, Alodine 1200 (acid etch) Fill the dips and pits from the corrosion in with Marine Tex (3M) use a good Zinc Chromate primer
Enamel paint. we got marine plywood and will use west 105 epoxy to coat the new wood transom so that it can't rot away again. If after I garnet blast with a spot blaster
and i feel remaining thickness is too thin then
I will 100% sandwich the AFT skin just as you did it... Great info your putting out I never would have thought of doing that, look like a great repair.
Awesome. Sounds like a man with a plan. I bet it will be better than new. Again thanks for watching
Do you have a video of your transom build?
Yes sir it’s on the page
Awesome video, exactly what I was looking for, I found your channel through a comment you made in a starcraft group on Facebook. I am going to be doing the same thing on my 1967 starcraft holiday 18'. Going to be using 1/4" for the outside skin and probably 1/16 for the inside. I plan on putting a larger engine than what the boat is technically rated for (86 Johnson 150).
Your video on installing solid rivets was very helpful as well. The only question that comes to mind now is wont the backside of the rivets installed to sandwich the pieces together interfere with the new transom wood? TIA
The tail after being bucked over is less than a 1/8”. It shouldn’t be a issue.
Than you for watching I appreciate it.
Hey Jeff, where do you recommend getting the bucking dies for the air hammer? Thanks for another great video. Keep up the detail
Most your air tool suppliers can get them. I got mine from a place in Charlotte. I buy them in bulk when I can find them lol I had thought about putting together kits with a rivet assortment and the tools.
I'm going to do this same process. The drain plug on my starcraft is off center and not at lowest point and has old epoxy around it. What would be best method to remove old and install new drain plug hole?
I left mine in the location it was. It won’t hurt to have a little water in the bilge under most conditions. I try to always keep holes away from edges and seams. I would go back with a aluminum one and use a quality epoxy or sealer. They make a after one made from plastic as well. It looks like a through hull fitting with a rubber gasket
What was the total of Epoxy do you use for the whole job? Awesome work and very good directions thanks John
I used most of a 2 quart kit. I appreciate you commenting and watching. Good luck with your project
I have an 1860 aluminum flat bottom and the bottom looks like Swiss cheese. I am planning on replacing the entire hull. The boat is super thin 1/16 I believe. I was going to use 3/16 5052 for the hull but is that overkill or will 1/8 be plenty good? Thank you in advance.
If it’s a river boat where your running shallow the thicker would be nice. But normal use 1/8” is good.
@@bowl830 Thank you
I just did it today to my sylvan 17 foot back troller
It it alot of fun that epoxy hold nice
Im on hr 7 of it being clamped waiting to pull it off i had a good amount or oozing everywhere all around and in between waiting for it to be all to be hardened
I went a little over board with the amount i out on both pieces but i sandwiched it together and it oozed all over the place i cleaned it as good as i could will have to do some sanding to level it all 😊
Awesome. At least you know it’s got good contact with no voids or sir pockets. I’d rather sand some then have holes. Great job.
Im going to spend all day tomorrow cleaning it and getting ready for painting it all
I’m working a boat refurbishment and need to do something like this BUT I have rivets on the rear of my boat all long the edge. It looks like you’re working a smooth edge. How would you modify the process? Just make it fit the smaller section?
This one has rivets also. That doesn’t affect the epoxy that much. The heads of mine only were 1/16” high. But yes you could cut it to just fit the inside of the river footprint. I appreciate you watching and taking time to comment
@@bowl830 no problem and thanks for the quick reply.
So this one had rivets along the edge and you just placed the sheets (internal and external) over the rivet head and tail and accepted the gap along the edge that would create?
Because when I look at the seam at the bottom of the boat before you add the external sheet it looks completely flat. Just want to make sure I’m not gonna do something that messes up my great grandfathers boat.
Or is it best like I said to just cut a smaller section to fit within those existing rivets? Thanks again.
Mine had some pitting in the rivets around the perimeter so I just went over them.if my outer rivets were in good shape I would have went just inside them with the new skin.
@@bowl830 just thought I’d let you know it went well. I have both skins epoxied in and the second one is currently clamped/screwed in and they’re both curing. Cold here so I’m giving it a full 48 hours with a heater directly on them.
This looks so good and much much better than what was there when I started. Such bad corrosion. This will get my great grandfathers boat back on the water for me and my children and hopefully there’s as well.
Awesome.
Hello, Do you have a model/part number for that air rivet gun? Thanks!
That gun is just a harbor freight brand. Get the variable speed and it will work fine
Is there a purpose for the angle aluminum that sits under the transom wood? My aluminum angle is eaten up and I’m thinking of removing it and making transom wood a little taller. I appreciate your input.
It acts like a bottom support and a side to side stiffener. If it’s real bad you can buy 2” Z CHANNEL and just cut a new one. I would do that rather than not use one.
@@bowl830 cool. I really appreciate all the help you’ve given me on my boat build. Sometimes it gets very overwhelming, so it’s nice to receive input. God bless.
Yes sir. Thank you. That’s why I do the videos. I’ve been there. I’ve stared at something for two days before 😂
What epoxy did you use for the aluminum? Your link is broken in the description and I am doing the same thing now.
Sorry about that. I fixed it. Thanks for watching good luck.
What brand and color paint did you use? Do you plan to repaint entire boat?
I’m on the fence about repainting whole boat. I use commercial grade automotive paint with a good epoxy etching primer first. My other boat was painted 6 years ago and the paint held up great.
I used farm implement paint on the outer transom of this one just to see how it did. It dried slick as glass. Not sure how it will hold up. I used the type in spray cans from Tractor Supply. I’m just curious lol
I am messing with an old Sylvan that for some reason has 38 drilled holes in the transom skin, I was just going to skin the inside and fill the outside with brazing. Other than "more is better", is there a particular reason you skinned both sides?
Just to get a good fresh factory look. And I’m a more is better type person.
@@bowl830 That works for me. lol
Do you take any jobs? I’d like to have this done on my boat but don’t have the time. I’m in the Carolinas as well.
I’m sorry I don’t. My real job keeps me tied up. I’m booked through 2023 not joking. I appreciate you watching and commenting thank you
Hi
Where can i buy the airgun please ?
I got that one at harbor freight
Where do you buy your solid rivets. Thanks
I buy in bulk when I find them. I get mine from a supplier in Charlotte nc. I’m trying to get them to offer a kit that has a assortment of rivets and the tool to install them. And offer them for sale
What did you sand the aluminum with
What grit sandpaper
I used 80 grit to get a good cut so the epoxy had something to bond to.
So the little space between the new wood and the transom that is created by the bucking rivets is a good thing and is okay to have?
I will be doing the exact same thing that you did to this boat with my personal so I am trying to study up.
It’s so small it won’t make a difference really but if it leaves a gap it will be fine. It’s less than a 1/8” it will allow it to dry out at worst
Thanks, I appreciate the reply!
Is this typically caused by electrolysis?
It can be for sure. I try to never use the hull as a common ground. I use dedicated grounds to everything directly to the battery.
I have a Lowe sea nymph with the same type corrosion
The tracker was more of a chemical reaction I believe.
I had that i bought a boat and it had the ground straight to the boat not seperate and caused the corrosion im dealing whrh now
and this is why a riveted boat is crap. you need sealant in every single rivet or they will let go and leak over time. nothing to stop them leaking especially if done like this as there is not anywhere near enough pressure being put on the back side to make them a proper tight fit.. only good way to do a rivet like this is hydraulic pressure on both sides of the rivets, but still needs asealant in between or will let in water and rot away.. if doing rivets like this atleast do them before the epoxy goes off, then there is a chance to get a bondaround then and maybe squeeze a bit of epoxy out of the rivet holes would be good.... he done a great job , but no way would i have put any rivets back in and weaken a great job .
Respectfully. They don’t put sealer on rivets from the factory. Secondly a Sealer will actually prevent a good seal and weaken the rivet. As for hydraulic squeezer. A impact hammer provides just as much or more force, Just a slower process. Rarely are squeezers used to make repairs even in the aeronautical industry
3 rd. The weight on the inside doesn’t have to be heavy, these are aluminum rivets I could have got by with far less.
The most important thing you were wrong on is riveted boats being crap. There are millions of 40-50 year old riveted boats around. Why! Because they are actually superior to a welded boat. Rivets flex and move where a weld won’t. There’s a reason airplanes are mostly riveted.
But I do appreciate you watching and commenting thank you.
Purddie, purddie.
Hey jeff, u mentioned about fixing the small spot in your haul, I cant find any videos of this. Could u point me in the right direction of this job. Thanks. Great job
I've done lots of solid riveting but didnt understand your comment about creating an "interior gap to allow water wicking" ???WT.....I've redone transoms too. Why would you "design" a hollow transom to take in and hold water? When you say "wicking" that is a real boat builders worst nightmare. The idea is to keep water out. Just fill, clamp, and seal the entire assembly incuding the top edge where water would enter. Not to be rude but your application and use of epoxy was poorly planned, not prepped or clamped properly. After the video cut, you return with a clamped bar (or level?) obviously realizing later that individual clamps on glue backed aluminum skin is creating uneven clamping pressure dents. I feel if people are making "instructional" videos they should be doing it the right way. Epoxy is two-part and VERY time sensitive depending on formulation. Setting up drip masking and looking for clamp bars AFTER its been mixed and applied is not ideal. Likely a very poor bond in there with such light, and late clamping, screws, then rivets. Overmanipulation of the sheet and material recieving the screws and rivets. In my opinion. Next time use a bunch of long reach clamps with boards to evenly distribute the bonding pressure, attempt to eliminate water entrapping voids and cavities within.
Where I live many people ocean fish with increased hull pressures and splash exposure from rough water. A strong transom is the backbone of a safe seaworthy boat. And where does your "wicked transom water" exit??? Did you install a second drain bung tapped into the inside of you r transom? The time spent making your video could (should) have been put into clamping it up properly and preparing for wet epoxy, before dealing with wet eopoxy. Has always been rule #1 in two-part application 101. But good job otherwise.
Well thanks for your long comment. I appreciate the feedback. You misinterpreted what I was talking about. No the transom does not wick water and is in fact is 100% waterproof and solid. I was talking about the fact that the backside rivets do protrude out causing a 1/8” void for people to not be concerned over that fact cause If anything it allows air and any water that gets between the skin and transom to wick out. You can seal the top all you want but moisture will get in on aluminum boats. Fiberglass is a different situation. Yes you can use bar clamps and while it was curing I had several in place. But the clamping force of a screw is well over 200# of force. So it’s plenty to squeeze the layers to get a permanent bond. The cure time of the Epoxy I was using is 45minutes at the temperature it was applied so I had plenty of time. The most important part is prep.
Again I do appreciate the feedback. Next time I will try to be more inclusive on the smaller details. You got a sharp eye. Thanks for taking time to watch and comment