thanks for posting these videos.. I just got the G0768Z , I also got the grizzly quick change post set T10167, but its not fitting due to bus being too big , pretty bummed
I just purchased my G0768 and followed the steps on your video and installed an AXO post and does work fine. I'm very happy with this model of lathe. I'm only a hobbyist and know very little but willing to learn along the way. Would be nice to see a video on how to set the gears for the different thread making for this lathe. Thanks for your videos for they are very helpful to me.
The square flat piece (t-nut stock) that came with the QCTP from LMS worked for me to elevate it above the boss. I had to drill out the center hole to fit around the OD of the boss. That t-nut stock had great parallel and flat surfaces
I'd certainly agree about stripping a machine down to it's major sub assembly's for a real good cleaning even before using it. I did that with a new 3/4 sized Taiwan built Bridgeport clone. And while I didn't find even an ounce of chips and grinding dust there was enough grams of it to make the effort more than worth while. But I'd do the same if I was buying a used machine no matter who made it. And they all still require doing that from time to time as preventative maintenance. That's just part of owning machine tools. Slides will wear and the dust mixes with the way oil which further accelerates the wear issue. Keeping a machine's slides and working parts clean, properly adjusted and well oiled is far more important than most understand. But I can't fully agree about those 4 way tool posts. I used one for years before stepping up to a quick change. I just either machined the correct shim for each tool or kept a dedicated stack of shims with each tool. There also capable of holding and supporting the tool a bit more rigidly than a quick change can as well. And those indexing pins are worthless most times, I removed mine on my C6 right away. Yes that gear changing can be pain, but it depends on just what the owner is into. A change gear machine for some can be far more adaptable either by buying additional gears or making them. That can give you a far larger range of thread pitches than any gear box machine can. If you have to keep those slides overly tight then somethings wrong and they need to be corrected by first checking for where those problems are on a surface plate with a 10ths test indicator. Then measure the male and female dovetails as well as the flatness of the gib. Too many brag that lapping will correct the slides and that is NOT the correct repair method. You have no control of exactly where the material is being removed. Surface grinding and/or hand scraping is the correct method. Anyone who says lapping will fix it knows nothing about how critical the slides alignments are. A brand new top quality tool room lathe either manual or cnc will face slightly concave by .001"-.002" over 12". All these hobby machines are made down to meet a price point, but there's a huge amount any owner can do to improve things a great deal with a bit of education and maybe a few bucks.
I have the same tool post on an Atlas 618 6" lathe. I replaced that 10 mm nut on the top of the tool post with an indexable female clamping handle (M10x1.5). Used a bushing as a flange spacer between the clamp handle and top of the post.
thanks for the info on the compound that was left all over the inside of the lathe, thanks for this video you came up with a good mod for the tool post .
Just installed my QCTP just like yours and the same set up but found the two washers don't keep ridged enough and it causes chatter due to axial movement on the post.(even when really clamped down). I just have to machine a clearance piece that's one piece and has a mild texture. Thanks for your post, very helpful.
I think this lathe is made by either Weiss or Maxnovomachine- search for wm210, or just 210 mm lathe. Dropros sells an interesting variant: the wbl210v. It's like the g0768 but with a brushless motor- I guess it has enough torque so that they don't include the two position belt scheme to change the speed (so ultimately it should be cheaper). Unfortunately, they also leave out the gear box used to reverse the leadscrew vs. the spindle for backward threads, so maybe no backwards threads unless there is a way to do it the change gears (look for the big knob on the lower front of the headstock). I'm interested to hear the noise of this brushless motor compared with the Sieg SC4, which seems very loud.
Super useful! I actually just bought the MX-210 8"x16" lathe on Ebay and the one I got "apparently" comes with the brushless motor... we'll see about that though. You may think the small details aren't that important, but you're saving me a lot of headache in providing this stuff. Cheers!
You don't need to use washers. Chuck your tool post in a four jaw chuck, indicate the stud hole for centering and bore a recess to about +0.001' wider and deeper than the boss dimension. When completed you can slip the tool post over the boss and have lateral support at the base of the tool post.
I'm going to try this... The problem with the adapter plate or washers is that the tool post will be too high for a parting tool (in the parting tool holder) to be centered.
metalhead2508 Hey metalhead, So far I really like it. Its not a 3 ton lathe so it has limitations but its great for a first lathe. For the money I think its a great deal. You need to keep all the gibs real tight and the saddle tight but it makes fine work with care. It does not take deep cuts so don't get butt hurt like a lot of others do and trash Chinese lathes. They have their place. They afford us normal people to have a lathe we can afford and move.(I suggest a two strong people) I moved mine all be my self. I am not weak or small and it taxed me a little. Most important, take it down as far as your comfortable and clean and inspect. You need to know how your lathe works and its the best for learning plus you will have a bond afterwards. I did not take the gearbox apart, no need. You can inspect it assembled. Again, I think the g0768 is a lot of lathe for the money and if your serious and get in to machining further you will out grow it and look for something more. Hope I helped. Feel free to ask anything else you may want to know.
Have not tried 4140, I did some 304 ss. small cuts.(came out so-so) I found using the carbide insert tools it cuts with more ease but more money. This lathe is not very rigid. You have to bolt it down good and make everything tight, then it takes time but does it. last I was on grizzly they were still in stock, man they must be selling like hot cakes. At a grand, that's a good deal. now I think the best pound for pound dollar for dollar is the LMS 8.5x20. its only like 200lbs and is better. More money though, that's why I went with the g0768. you kinda need all the tooling eventually. start with a QCTP and get the HSS tool blanks from harbor freight and make your own at first. Facing and turning tools. most used by far. Little machine shop has some nice bundles. I think youll have fun. I enjoy mine. the larger chuck is nice.
The other position on the QCTP is where you would want to mount a boring bar. I used that to clean out the interior of a 3/4" pipe coupling to make an outboard spider.
Thanks for your comment, BROCKWOOD64. I totally agree; I previously had a machine shop with heavy industrial equipment. Learning how to get satisfactory results from these light-weight machines is a challenge; I spend half my time figuring out how to circumvent the limitations.
Since I still have a half-dozen heavy Palmer machinist vises from my old company, I found that clamping them all wherever possible on the milling vise and work pieces to increase their mass helps to damp the vibration and chattering. It looks pretty silly, but it helps quite a lot.
I just bought one of these and was looking forward to playing with it this week end but it arrived inoperational. To be fair ups mishandled shipping to the point the crate literally fell off so I do not know if the lathe's electronics were defective or the shipping trip damaged it. Will be calling Grizzly tomorrow so we can square this issue away.
Thank you for the very informative video. It is now June 2019 and I wonder if you have any comments on your overall experience with the G0768. I am considering buying one over the other potential LMS 5100 due to it's better rigidity/heaviness. I see that LMS now sells a QCTP for the G0768 with post bolt and base shim (4157). The only thing about the Grizzy that is not present is the Brushless DC Motor found on the LMS 5100. Can you say whether this is a big deal based on your several years experience with the G0768? Thank you.
Ron, can i ask you what you eventually bought and if you are happy with it. I am in the same position now that you were...to buy a LMS 5100 or this Grizzly G0768...which is the better lathe.
I just bought this lathe and QCTP: LMS now includes the correct bolt and an adapter plate to raise the post above the boss. You still have to remove the pressed-in bolt- you can use the bottom plate of the QCTP to screw on to this bolt if you don't have the correct nut before hammering. Also, unfortunately you also have to drill out the threads of this bottom plate since the included bolt will not fit through it. This is fine, but sure feels like I'm voiding the warranty of the QCTP. I wish LMS just included a thicker adapter plate instead of requiring both plates.
Actually for 5/16 inch tools, you need just the adapter plate, not the bottom plate, otherwise you can't center the tool. You do need a washer for the bolt because there are not enough threads on it to tighten the QCTP nut. The washer from the original tool post works.
Sorry this is so diffused! It's my first video. I shot it with a Lumix DMCTZ4 pocket camera and was busy monkeying with it. I just got a spiffy new Sony Handycam - maybe I'll try again!
I put one of the LMS OXA QCTP on my lathe, a GO768Z, and there was a square plate with the kit to put under the tool post to get to the top of the boss but it was not quiet thick enough so I made one a full 1/4" thick and same width as the compound an it really looks good. Also there was a longer 10mm bolt in the kit but when I tried to knock out the original one, it would not budge because the original on was driven in with a hammer because there was hammer tracks on the bottom. Had it press the original bolt out and thought it would break the compound but it popped then came out. The longer bolt was to small and it turned when I tried to put the nut on top. Milled a 8mm square about 1/4" down from the top and use it to hold the bolt while tightening. Everything works great. Didn't make any changes to the original 4 way setup in case I wanted to change it back for warranty reasons. Sorry for the long sermon but that is it'.
G'day Rocky I have got the same tool post and I have a Sieg SC-6. It's got nearly the same compound set up with a boss as a permanent fixture your advise on using a M-10 bolt and two washes underneath is a great idea, I was going to mill off the boss so it sits flat. I can't remember if you said you had to drill the underside for the right size diameter of the bolt? Anyway a good fix one of the easiest of seen. Regards John Tasmania Australia PS have subscribed
Judging by a quick look at Grizzly's catalog, the G0765 appears to have the same tool post. But, because it's 7" swing instead of 8" like the G0768, there's no way to tell in advance which QC model you'll need. If you have a G0765, you can measure the distance between the center line of the lathe and the compound and then look in the LMS catalog for a model that fits. If you still have questions, you can email Chris Wood at LMS for advice.
Be advised that if you bought one of these machines manufactured since April 2016, they have changed the thread dial gear from 32 to 24 teeth and revised the thread dial chart. You can get the updated owners manual at Grizzly's website.
Hi Procky, I just bought the G0768. I had a HF 7 x 10 and wanted to get a larger lathe. I have a problem with getting a "record player" finish on the parts. I have good tooling and on the HF I got a beautiful finish. Have you had trouble with the part finish.
Forgot to mention I like your video. I was thinking if Grizzly allows me to return my 0765 to upgrade to 0768 since it has metal gears and bigger chuck and extra 2" bed. Most of my projects revolve around gunsmithing and reloading for now, threading is very important for me and my 0765 is giving me so much trouble with it, have you tried threading barrels? Just not sure if spending $465 (with tax) extra is worth it over my 0765.
Nice video! It seems I got my G0768 about the same time you did and I was curious if you have had any trouble with the spindle bearing grease on yours. Mine started to lock up and I had to completely pull the spindle and the bearings and clean out that crappy grease they put in at the factory and re-grease with what they recommended in the manual. Mine now runs better than when it was new and is something I should have done right away if I knew any better. Just a suggestion to keep an eye on so your bearings don't get damaged.
I haven't used my lathe extensively in the last 6-months - I moved across the US to a new city and am just getting my shop set up. Before I undertake a major project, I'll look up the recommended grease and re-pack the bearings.
Some questions from someone with very little knowledge on lathes.Could you have used larger tool bits with the original holder to get the center line in proper position?Could you have used the washers you ended up using on the quick change, with the original tool post to raise the center line, without the indexing of course.And one last question, could you have machined the base of the quick change tool holder as to not need the washers?
I hope the following answer will address ALL your questions. The problem is that the cutting bit need to be EXACTLY at the center line. As you will learn, it is totally impractical to have to grind bits or fiddle with shims just to adjust their height. As a former light manufacturer, I always had dozens of in-house HS (high speed steel) bits on hand for special purposes. Carbide bits can be altered very little at all, while the custom made ones (sometime quite complicated and costly to make) would be reground only minimally to sharpen them. Keep in mind that it was a simple matter to adjust tool height with the old ubiquitous "rocker" type tool posts, but: a) it was impossible for aftermarket suppliers to provide them for the dozens of surviving legacy lathe models and swings, each with its own tool post mounting arrangement; and making and hardening your own was no trivial task. And b): with a rocker, it was tedious and time consuming to alternate tools for repetitive processes, such as screw making, making such tasks unfeasible. QC tool posts are an extremely practical solution to all these issues.
No, I haven’t. If I do any threading, it’ll be minimal. I really dislike back gears - even when they work properly - and some of the comments on this clip put that to the question. If I end up installing silencers down the road, I'd prefer to get a heavier duty machine with a quick-change gearbox.
bought the lms kit, but my stud on the cross slide seems to be shorter than yours, so the tool post is too big for the stud... kinda bummed for almost $200 and this solution will not work...
Suggestion why not put another 2 to one belt reduction on the motor to get double the low speed torque? Most modern smaller lathes are wrongly designed for not enough low speed and too much high speed almost nobody needs more than 1500 rpm but could really use 50 rpm with decent torque.
Anyone tried threading with this lathe? I have found with mine I cannot get the taller gears to fit. i.e. threading for 16tpi. Not enough room for the gears to fit on the swing arm.
Arock PCB If you mean the OEM toolpost, I used a 3/8 tool bit as my cutter and put an old 1/4" tool bit underneath to raise it. That was a bit too high, so I tipped the cutting edge down by putting a piece of .050 aluminum scrap under the tail end. The QC tool post doesn't require any shimming, of course.
what did you use to shim the m10 bolt in the compound? I have the same lathe and after watching your vid I ordered the same set up yours looked so good. I have the m10 bolt ready to go but waiting on the tool post to arrive tomorrow but need to have all work complete before I press out the 2.5" post. Thanks. Subcribed!
I used .002" brass shim stock wrapped one time around the stud end-to-end. It was a bit tricky getting the stud into the hole along with the shim, but it's very secure now.
I think I mentioned that, to my good fortune, my washers just happened to be quite flat. I'd assumed that I would need to face them. This is a rather tedious process so before you get started, go back to where you got your washers and see if you can find some flatter ones. Alternatively, use "precision washers". I see that you can purchase "Morton Low Carbon Steel Spherical Washer Sets, Equalizing Washers, Inch Size, 3/4 in. Bolt Size on Amazon at smile.amazon.com/Morton-Carbon-Spherical-Equalizing-Washers/dp/B00GKZD7BI/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1437942672&sr=1-4&keywords=3%2F4+in.+in+precision+washers ]. Or, if all else fails, proceed as follows: Using #120 abrasive paper on a pane of glass - or a belt sander - surface both sides of each washer until flat. You can use Dykem or a Magic Marker as an aid to see where to remove material. Then, use a bright light and a high-quality 6" machinist's rule to check for flatness and adjust as necessary.
Procky Thanks Procky. I think im just gonna make my own clearance plate. Ill make it outta a one piece aluminum circle stock with a flat cut in it for more clearance for the cut off tool adapter. Plus ill use the old tool post "indexing" hole to locate a stud to keep the adapter from moving during cuts. I think that will solve the problem. Who knows, if it works Procky ill build one for you if you want it.
+Clown Whisper Yes, but there is no boss, just a stud that's threaded that I removed and used one that came with my kit. I got myself aluminum QCTP from eBay for 46.69 (it ended up costing me 26.69 in the end). Steel is better, but I was on the budget, I think I'll make my own metal QTCP eventually.
Dima Prok I will never buy another grizzly product again. I have had the worse experience of my life buying the 765 it was built incorrectly and almost every single assembly had to be changed. I have never in my life seen a more poorly designed machine. I have had to redesign many assemblies to get the thing to function at all. I even replaced all of the plastic gears with metal ones
+Clown Whisper Believe me, I had very similar if not exact experience. While just turning metal, it worked fine, although I haven't done anything complex because I started machining for the first time when I bough my machine so it's all new to me, but I feel like I finished college from the amount of information I've learned in the last 3 months. All the problems started when I decided to try threading. I am very lucky to have an uncle who modified his Chinese lathes beyond believe (on his G0602 alone he installed 37 ball bearings). He currently pretty much fixed my lathe even though I am still waiting for Grizzly forks to call me back (they say they will and then a week goes by and I just had to call them myself). They suppose to send me new leadscrew because old one is bent, a left bracket to hold it, a banjo (pivot arm) shaft to hold banjo, half nuts, swivel base, compound bottom and and cross slide screw because it's also bent. They wanted me to take machine back so they can fix it, but after I spent all the time tuning, I am going to get another machine with who knows what is broken, it's not like they are going to test all the functions for me and it's 70 miles drive for me to their showroom, so I rather fix it. The thing is, it's not like I can buy Swiss lathe here. I talked to a guy who spent 40 year machining, he worked on Russian, German, Japanese and Swiss and American lathes and said Swiss was best he worked on. Very high precision.
Dima Prok on the 765 pile of junk there is actually a gap in the back sheet metal that funnels shavings straight to the motor air intake. I took some sheetg metal and fixed that. I replaced the motor twice - I replaced the motor pulley twice - belt once. I replaced the speed sensor 4 times, then i redesigned it and replaced it again, now its fine. All new gears (metal) redesigned the forward neutral reverse lever and replaced it. Had to replace the aluminum plate that gears mounted too as they were tapped wrong. replaced the ebox cover as it came cracked from the factory. replaced the tailstock bearing and cover ( came cracked) had to replace the outer jaws as they would not fit the chuck at all. I mean they were a few thousandths over!!! replaced the half nut mounting plate plate as the threading assembly was stripped from the factory. The compounds feels like metal on metal grinding when i use it and cant for the life of me figfure out why. its not the gibs so it must be the lead screw... all i can think of. Im buying a mill from Bolton tool and more then likely thier lathe. When I do I will blow this pile of shit up on youtube.
Clown Whisper oh wow... you had it bad. I need to take care of that gap, I did remove the back metal sheet altogether though from beginning, my compound would run in to it.
It really not so simple to obtain, mark up and machine the ring from flat stock - especially when you have to struggle with the bogus OEM toolpost. What could be easier than picking up a couple of washers at Home Depot?
+Procky Flatstock? Use the round bar stock. My uncle has been using this "bogus" oem toolpost for 15 years and made complex parts like his own extended leadscrews for crosslide (extended crosslide movement) and his own live center with bearings and MT2 taper arbor without setting compound angle or adjusting tailstock sideways (I was scathing my head) he knows the convenience of QCTP because he worked on big lathes but somehow it wasn't that big of a deal to him. Anyway, what I don't like about washers is that they are not fitted snug against the boss, there is too much back and fourth movement and for me that's not very solid support.
Dima, when I had a real machine shop, I had that kind of bar stock laying around. Now I'm a gunsmith and have no use for such materials. The washers, in fact, fit quite nicely and function perfectly. In any case, my complements to your uncle... he sounds like a real pro!
+Clown Whisper Sometimes you get glitch, try restarting browser and if that doesn't work restart your computer. Also I've noticed your posts come out twice.
+Clown Whisper You know I've noticed my posts were coming out in multiple numbers too, I deleted one of them and they all disappeared of the same comment. I think it's youtube having glitches.
thanks for posting these videos.. I just got the G0768Z , I also got the grizzly quick change post set T10167, but its not fitting due to bus being too big , pretty bummed
I just purchased my G0768 and followed the steps on your video and installed an AXO post and does work fine. I'm very happy with this model of lathe. I'm only a hobbyist and know very little but willing to learn along the way. Would be nice to see a video on how to set the gears for the different thread making for this lathe. Thanks for your videos for they are very helpful to me.
do you have a link to your tool post? or a part number? this lms kit does not work for application .
The square flat piece (t-nut stock) that came with the QCTP from LMS worked for me to elevate it above the boss. I had to drill out the center hole to fit around the OD of the boss. That t-nut stock had great parallel and flat surfaces
I'd certainly agree about stripping a machine down to it's major sub assembly's for a real good cleaning even before using it. I did that with a new 3/4 sized Taiwan built Bridgeport clone. And while I didn't find even an ounce of chips and grinding dust there was enough grams of it to make the effort more than worth while. But I'd do the same if I was buying a used machine no matter who made it. And they all still require doing that from time to time as preventative maintenance. That's just part of owning machine tools. Slides will wear and the dust mixes with the way oil which further accelerates the wear issue. Keeping a machine's slides and working parts clean, properly adjusted and well oiled is far more important than most understand.
But I can't fully agree about those 4 way tool posts. I used one for years before stepping up to a quick change. I just either machined the correct shim for each tool or kept a dedicated stack of shims with each tool. There also capable of holding and supporting the tool a bit more rigidly than a quick change can as well. And those indexing pins are worthless most times, I removed mine on my C6 right away.
Yes that gear changing can be pain, but it depends on just what the owner is into. A change gear machine for some can be far more adaptable either by buying additional gears or making them. That can give you a far larger range of thread pitches than any gear box machine can.
If you have to keep those slides overly tight then somethings wrong and they need to be corrected by first checking for where those problems are on a surface plate with a 10ths test indicator. Then measure the male and female dovetails as well as the flatness of the gib. Too many brag that lapping will correct the slides and that is NOT the correct repair method. You have no control of exactly where the material is being removed. Surface grinding and/or hand scraping is the correct method. Anyone who says lapping will fix it knows nothing about how critical the slides alignments are. A brand new top quality tool room lathe either manual or cnc will face slightly concave by .001"-.002" over 12". All these hobby machines are made down to meet a price point, but there's a huge amount any owner can do to improve things a great deal with a bit of education and maybe a few bucks.
I have the same tool post on an Atlas 618 6" lathe. I replaced that 10 mm nut on the top of the tool post with an indexable female clamping handle (M10x1.5). Used a bushing as a flange spacer between the clamp handle and top of the post.
thanks for the info on the compound that was left all over the inside of the lathe, thanks for this video you came up with a good mod for the tool post .
Just installed my QCTP just like yours and the same set up but found the two washers don't keep ridged enough and it causes chatter due to axial movement on the post.(even when really clamped down). I just have to machine a clearance piece that's one piece and has a mild texture. Thanks for your post, very helpful.
I agree... if the washers weren't perfectly flat, I'd have machined a single spacer.
I think this lathe is made by either Weiss or Maxnovomachine- search for wm210, or just 210 mm lathe. Dropros sells an interesting variant: the wbl210v. It's like the g0768 but with a brushless motor- I guess it has enough torque so that they don't include the two position belt scheme to change the speed (so ultimately it should be cheaper). Unfortunately, they also leave out the gear box used to reverse the leadscrew vs. the spindle for backward threads, so maybe no backwards threads unless there is a way to do it the change gears (look for the big knob on the lower front of the headstock). I'm interested to hear the noise of this brushless motor compared with the Sieg SC4, which seems very loud.
Super useful! I actually just bought the MX-210 8"x16" lathe on Ebay and the one I got "apparently" comes with the brushless motor... we'll see about that though. You may think the small details aren't that important, but you're saving me a lot of headache in providing this stuff. Cheers!
Any updates on your purchase?
thank you, i have the same lathe and tool post, was not sure how i was going to make it work.
You don't need to use washers. Chuck your tool post in a four jaw chuck, indicate the stud hole for centering and bore a recess to about +0.001' wider and deeper than the boss dimension. When completed you can slip the tool post over the boss and have lateral support at the base of the tool post.
I'm going to try this... The problem with the adapter plate or washers is that the tool post will be too high for a parting tool (in the parting tool holder) to be centered.
Quite helpful and informative video. Thanks.
Great vid! Just what I needed. Got a G0768 the other day. Thank you sir.
metalhead2508 Hey metalhead, So far I really like it. Its not a 3 ton lathe so it has limitations but its great for a first lathe. For the money I think its a great deal. You need to keep all the gibs real tight and the saddle tight but it makes fine work with care. It does not take deep cuts so don't get butt hurt like a lot of others do and trash Chinese lathes. They have their place. They afford us normal people to have a lathe we can afford and move.(I suggest a two strong people) I moved mine all be my self. I am not weak or small and it taxed me a little. Most important, take it down as far as your comfortable and clean and inspect. You need to know how your lathe works and its the best for learning plus you will have a bond afterwards. I did not take the gearbox apart, no need. You can inspect it assembled. Again, I think the g0768 is a lot of lathe for the money and if your serious and get in to machining further you will out grow it and look for something more. Hope I helped. Feel free to ask anything else you may want to know.
Have not tried 4140, I did some 304 ss. small cuts.(came out so-so) I found using the carbide insert tools it cuts with more ease but more money. This lathe is not very rigid. You have to bolt it down good and make everything tight, then it takes time but does it. last I was on grizzly they were still in stock, man they must be selling like hot cakes. At a grand, that's a good deal. now I think the best pound for pound dollar for dollar is the LMS 8.5x20. its only like 200lbs and is better. More money though, that's why I went with the g0768. you kinda need all the tooling eventually. start with a QCTP and get the HSS tool blanks from harbor freight and make your own at first. Facing and turning tools. most used by far. Little machine shop has some nice bundles. I think youll have fun. I enjoy mine. the larger chuck is nice.
+metalhead2508 So it's been out for 5 months? It shows being not available right now too.
The other position on the QCTP is where you would want to mount a boring bar. I used that to clean out the interior of a 3/4" pipe coupling to make an outboard spider.
Great job I performed this after watch your video. Thx allot. However I used shims I found at a garage sale .
Thanks for your comment, BROCKWOOD64. I totally agree; I previously had a machine shop with heavy industrial equipment. Learning how to get satisfactory results from these light-weight machines is a challenge; I spend half my time figuring out how to circumvent the limitations.
Since I still have a half-dozen heavy Palmer machinist vises from my old company, I found that clamping them all wherever possible on the milling vise and work pieces to increase their mass helps to damp the vibration and chattering. It looks pretty silly, but it helps quite a lot.
Also you can use the original handle to hold down the QCTP, so you don't need a wrench to rotate the QCTP
Oh yeah, duh. This is a good idea.
I just bought one of these and was looking forward to playing with it this week end but it arrived inoperational. To be fair ups mishandled shipping to the point the crate literally fell off so I do not know if the lathe's electronics were defective or the shipping trip damaged it. Will be calling Grizzly tomorrow so we can square this issue away.
Thank you for the very informative video. It is now June 2019 and I wonder if you have any comments on your overall experience with the G0768. I am considering buying one over the other potential LMS 5100 due to it's better rigidity/heaviness. I see that LMS now sells a QCTP for the G0768 with post bolt and base shim (4157). The only thing about the Grizzy that is not present is the Brushless DC Motor found on the LMS 5100. Can you say whether this is a big deal based on your several years experience with the G0768? Thank you.
Ron, can i ask you what you eventually bought and if you are happy with it. I am in the same position now that you were...to buy a LMS 5100 or this Grizzly G0768...which is the better lathe.
I just bought this lathe and QCTP: LMS now includes the correct bolt and an adapter plate to raise the post above the boss. You still have to remove the pressed-in bolt- you can use the bottom plate of the QCTP to screw on to this bolt if you don't have the correct nut before hammering. Also, unfortunately you also have to drill out the threads of this bottom plate since the included bolt will not fit through it. This is fine, but sure feels like I'm voiding the warranty of the QCTP. I wish LMS just included a thicker adapter plate instead of requiring both plates.
Actually for 5/16 inch tools, you need just the adapter plate, not the bottom plate, otherwise you can't center the tool. You do need a washer for the bolt because there are not enough threads on it to tighten the QCTP nut. The washer from the original tool post works.
Sorry this is so diffused! It's my first video. I shot it with a Lumix DMCTZ4 pocket camera and was busy monkeying with it. I just got a spiffy new Sony Handycam - maybe I'll try again!
You're right, of course. When the washers worked so well, I guess I just wasn't motivated to drill out the T-nut blank.
I put one of the LMS OXA QCTP on my lathe, a GO768Z, and there was a square plate with the kit to put under the tool post to get to the top of the boss but it was not quiet thick enough so I made one a full 1/4" thick and same width as the compound an it really looks good. Also there was a longer 10mm bolt in the kit but when I tried to knock out the original one, it would not budge because the original on was driven in with a hammer because there was hammer tracks on the bottom. Had it press the original bolt out and thought it would break the compound but it popped then came out. The longer bolt was to small and it turned when I tried to put the nut on top. Milled a 8mm square about 1/4" down from the top and use it to hold the bolt while tightening. Everything works great. Didn't make any changes to the original 4 way setup in case I wanted to change it back for warranty reasons. Sorry for the long sermon but that is it'.
G'day Rocky I have got the same tool post and I have a Sieg SC-6. It's got nearly the same compound set up with a boss as a permanent fixture your advise on using a M-10 bolt and two washes underneath is a great idea, I was going to mill off the boss so it sits flat. I can't remember if you said you had to drill the underside for the right size diameter of the bolt? Anyway a good fix one of the easiest of seen. Regards John Tasmania Australia PS have subscribed
Judging by a quick look at Grizzly's catalog, the G0765 appears to have the same tool post. But, because it's 7" swing instead of 8" like the G0768, there's no way to tell in advance which QC model you'll need. If you have a G0765, you can measure the distance between the center line of the lathe and the compound and then look in the LMS catalog for a model that fits. If you still have questions, you can email Chris Wood at LMS for advice.
Be advised that if you bought one of these machines manufactured since April 2016, they have changed the thread dial gear from 32 to 24 teeth and revised the thread dial chart. You can get the updated owners manual at Grizzly's website.
what did this do?
Hi Procky, I just bought the G0768. I had a HF 7 x 10 and wanted to get a larger lathe. I have a problem with getting a "record player" finish on the parts. I have good tooling and on the HF I got a beautiful finish. Have you had trouble with the part finish.
Thanks man! I was just looking into this and wondered how to get a QC on my lathe. It seems stupid no one makes the right post.
Did you bore the boss to fit the new bolt, which means you cannot go back to the original size bolt.
Forgot to mention I like your video. I was thinking if Grizzly allows me to return my 0765 to upgrade to 0768 since it has metal gears and bigger chuck and extra 2" bed. Most of my projects revolve around gunsmithing and reloading for now, threading is very important for me and my 0765 is giving me so much trouble with it, have you tried threading barrels? Just not sure if spending $465 (with tax) extra is worth it over my 0765.
Nice video! It seems I got my G0768 about the same time you did and I was curious if you have had any trouble with the spindle bearing grease on yours. Mine started to lock up and I had to completely pull the spindle and the bearings and clean out that crappy grease they put in at the factory and re-grease with what they recommended in the manual. Mine now runs better than when it was new and is something I should have done right away if I knew any better. Just a suggestion to keep an eye on so your bearings don't get damaged.
I haven't used my lathe extensively in the last 6-months - I moved across the US to a new city and am just getting my shop set up. Before I undertake a major project, I'll look up the recommended grease and re-pack the bearings.
How do you get the toolpost stud out of the original slide?
Did you have to build up the stud before turning it to size. Can't tell for sure but it looks like braze build up. I do enjoy your videos.
Nope... Used a bolt right from the mill supply store.
Some questions from someone with very little knowledge on lathes.Could you have used larger tool bits with the original holder to get the center line in proper position?Could you have used the washers you ended up using on the quick change, with the original tool post to raise the center line, without the indexing of course.And one last question, could you have machined the base of the quick change tool holder as to not need the washers?
I hope the following answer will address ALL your questions. The problem is that the cutting bit need to be EXACTLY at the center line. As you will learn, it is totally impractical to have to grind bits or fiddle with shims just to adjust their height. As a former light manufacturer, I always had dozens of in-house HS (high speed steel) bits on hand for special purposes. Carbide bits can be altered very little at all, while the custom made ones (sometime quite complicated and costly to make) would be reground only minimally to sharpen them. Keep in mind that it was a simple matter to adjust tool height with the old ubiquitous "rocker" type tool posts, but: a) it was impossible for aftermarket suppliers to provide them for the dozens of surviving legacy lathe models and swings, each with its own tool post mounting arrangement; and making and hardening your own was no trivial task. And b): with a rocker, it was tedious and time consuming to alternate tools for repetitive processes, such as screw making, making such tasks unfeasible. QC tool posts are an extremely practical solution to all these issues.
Now that you have had this lathe for a while how do you like it? Would like to see some vids of it in use.
It's a light-duty machine. Ok for miscellaneous small parts making, but not rigid enough for any serious production work.
Had you considered a Bolton 8 x 15 variable speed model? Bit more than Grizzly, but free shipping- and looks to have a chuck cover with shut off ?
But no reversing gear- so I don't think you can make reverse threads.
Procky, have you tried threading barrels on your G0768 lathe? This is main reason I am considering to upgrade.
No, I haven’t. If I do any threading, it’ll be minimal. I really dislike back gears - even when they work properly - and some of the comments on this clip put that to the question. If I end up installing silencers down the road, I'd prefer to get a heavier duty machine with a quick-change gearbox.
+Procky I see, I'll keep looking... maybe I'll find something 2nd hand, something bigger, but not too heavy.
The Grizzly website says the G0768 is a 8" x 16" lathe and not 20 " between centers ?
bought the lms kit, but my stud on the cross slide seems to be shorter than yours, so the tool post is too big for the stud... kinda bummed for almost $200 and this solution will not work...
Suggestion why not put another 2 to one belt reduction on the motor to get double the low speed torque? Most modern smaller lathes are wrongly designed for not enough low speed and too much high speed almost nobody needs more than 1500 rpm but could really use 50 rpm with decent torque.
Anyone tried threading with this lathe? I have found with mine I cannot get the taller gears to fit. i.e. threading for 16tpi. Not enough room for the gears to fit on the swing arm.
Great idea... thanks!
Please use your Grizzly lathe to build Parts to help Restore and increase precision on Logan Lathes. Thanks.
Thanks for your comment, ZakarooNetwork. Oh, how I wish I still had my Logan! It was the Rock of Gibralter next to the Grizzly.
Excellent
What did you use to shim the post with?
Arock PCB If you mean the OEM toolpost, I used a 3/8 tool bit as my cutter and put an old 1/4" tool bit underneath to raise it. That was a bit too high, so I tipped the cutting edge down by putting a piece of .050 aluminum scrap under the tail end. The QC tool post doesn't require any shimming, of course.
what did you use to shim the m10 bolt in the compound? I have the same lathe and after watching your vid I ordered the same set up yours looked so good. I have the m10 bolt ready to go but waiting on the tool post to arrive tomorrow but need to have all work complete before I press out the 2.5" post. Thanks. Subcribed!
I used .002" brass shim stock wrapped one time around the stud end-to-end. It was a bit tricky getting the stud into the hole along with the shim, but it's very secure now.
thank you sir
I think I mentioned that, to my good fortune, my washers just happened to be quite flat. I'd assumed that I would need to face them. This is a rather tedious process so before you get started, go back to where you got your washers and see if you can find some flatter ones. Alternatively, use "precision washers". I see that you can purchase "Morton Low Carbon Steel Spherical Washer Sets, Equalizing Washers, Inch Size, 3/4 in. Bolt Size on Amazon at smile.amazon.com/Morton-Carbon-Spherical-Equalizing-Washers/dp/B00GKZD7BI/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1437942672&sr=1-4&keywords=3%2F4+in.+in+precision+washers ]. Or, if all else fails, proceed as follows: Using #120 abrasive paper on a pane of glass - or a belt sander - surface both sides of each washer until flat. You can use Dykem or a Magic Marker as an aid to see where to remove material. Then, use a bright light and a high-quality 6" machinist's rule to check for flatness and adjust as necessary.
Procky Thanks Procky. I think im just gonna make my own clearance plate. Ill make it outta a one piece aluminum circle stock with a flat cut in it for more clearance for the cut off tool adapter. Plus ill use the old tool post "indexing" hole to locate a stud to keep the adapter from moving during cuts. I think that will solve the problem. Who knows, if it works Procky ill build one for you if you want it.
I wonder if the G0765 - 7" X 14" Variable-Speed Benchtop Lathe has the same toop post
+Clown Whisper Yes, but there is no boss, just a stud that's threaded that I removed and used one that came with my kit. I got myself aluminum QCTP from eBay for 46.69 (it ended up costing me 26.69 in the end). Steel is better, but I was on the budget, I think I'll make my own metal QTCP eventually.
Dima Prok I will never buy another grizzly product again. I have had the worse experience of my life buying the 765 it was built incorrectly and almost every single assembly had to be changed. I have never in my life seen a more poorly designed machine.
I have had to redesign many assemblies to get the thing to function at all. I even replaced all of the plastic gears with metal ones
+Clown Whisper Believe me, I had very similar if not exact experience. While just turning metal, it worked fine, although I haven't done anything complex because I started machining for the first time when I bough my machine so it's all new to me, but I feel like I finished college from the amount of information I've learned in the last 3 months. All the problems started when I decided to try threading. I am very lucky to have an uncle who modified his Chinese lathes beyond believe (on his G0602 alone he installed 37 ball bearings). He currently pretty much fixed my lathe even though I am still waiting for Grizzly forks to call me back (they say they will and then a week goes by and I just had to call them myself). They suppose to send me new leadscrew because old one is bent, a left bracket to hold it, a banjo (pivot arm) shaft to hold banjo, half nuts, swivel base, compound bottom and and cross slide screw because it's also bent. They wanted me to take machine back so they can fix it, but after I spent all the time tuning, I am going to get another machine with who knows what is broken, it's not like they are going to test all the functions for me and it's 70 miles drive for me to their showroom, so I rather fix it. The thing is, it's not like I can buy Swiss lathe here. I talked to a guy who spent 40 year machining, he worked on Russian, German, Japanese and Swiss and American lathes and said Swiss was best he worked on. Very high precision.
Dima Prok on the 765 pile of junk there is actually a gap in the back sheet metal that funnels shavings straight to the motor air intake. I took some sheetg metal and fixed that. I replaced the motor twice - I replaced the motor pulley twice - belt once. I replaced the speed sensor 4 times, then i redesigned it and replaced it again, now its fine. All new gears (metal) redesigned the forward neutral reverse lever and replaced it.
Had to replace the aluminum plate that gears mounted too as they were tapped wrong. replaced the ebox cover as it came cracked from the factory. replaced the tailstock bearing and cover ( came cracked)
had to replace the outer jaws as they would not fit the chuck at all. I mean they were a few thousandths over!!! replaced the half nut mounting plate plate as the threading assembly was stripped from the factory.
The compounds feels like metal on metal grinding when i use it and cant for the life of me figfure out why. its not the gibs so it must be the lead screw... all i can think of.
Im buying a mill from Bolton tool and more then likely thier lathe. When I do I will blow this pile of shit up on youtube.
Clown Whisper oh wow... you had it bad. I need to take care of that gap, I did remove the back metal sheet altogether though from beginning, my compound would run in to it.
My first though, why not just make your own ring?? Seems like simple task even for novice.
It really not so simple to obtain, mark up and machine the ring from flat stock - especially when you have to struggle with the bogus OEM toolpost. What could be easier than picking up a couple of washers at Home Depot?
+Procky Flatstock? Use the round bar stock. My uncle has been using this "bogus" oem toolpost for 15 years and made complex parts like his own extended leadscrews for crosslide (extended crosslide movement) and his own live center with bearings and MT2 taper arbor without setting compound angle or adjusting tailstock sideways (I was scathing my head) he knows the convenience of QCTP because he worked on big lathes but somehow it wasn't that big of a deal to him. Anyway, what I don't like about washers is that they are not fitted snug against the boss, there is too much back and fourth movement and for me that's not very solid support.
Dima, when I had a real machine shop, I had that kind of bar stock laying around. Now I'm a gunsmith and have no use for such materials. The washers, in fact, fit quite nicely and function perfectly. In any case, my complements to your uncle... he sounds like a real pro!
this thing won't let me reply to anyone, comment
+Clown Whisper Sometimes you get glitch, try restarting browser and if that doesn't work restart your computer. Also I've noticed your posts come out twice.
Bizarre,
+Clown Whisper You know I've noticed my posts were coming out in multiple numbers too, I deleted one of them and they all disappeared of the same comment. I think it's youtube having glitches.