Your videos are as good as Sorastro's and even more informative and I like that you got bit more loose approach to this than he has. Both channels are excellent and has their own perks and quirks! Hope to see more MCP terrain tutorials from you!
Also glad that you reviewed and tested different techniques for the mortar work, because I was about to go and buy that Vallejos "ground texture" paste, but I can see the difference there and glad you brought it up. Keep up your stellar work!
this looks stunning, better than what I currently can do! my only input is that I usually put the decals and things like that before the amazing weathering goes down just to speed up the process
Thank you! I think it all depends on the story you're trying to tell! I wanted to have a variety of posters/graffitti/etc that are newer than the building they've been added to, so I did a bunch of weather on the building first, and then added the decals afterwards and did more weathering on top to have different "age" levels. But absolutely if you want the decals and the building to age at the same rate, you can put the decals on first and weather everything together (like if they were the original building signs, as an example).
@@JohnathanHo that's a good point! I generally tend to like my posters and graffiti quite old and weathered so I put them on first to reduce the steps but if you want to have a variety of aged signs and posters and such that is a good point
I use GW Purity Seal, although Mr Hobby Super Clear is a good substitute as Purity Seal no longer exists (I find GW Munitorum Spray has a slightly more satin finish than Purity Seal).
They're just images I found on Google, cropped where necessary, and then printed (I took it to a print shop since I don't have a good printer at home).
Why would getting red in the cracks matter? The drywall compound fills in all the cracks anyways, so however you want to get the brick color on there shouldn't matter.
Your videos are as good as Sorastro's and even more informative and I like that you got bit more loose approach to this than he has. Both channels are excellent and has their own perks and quirks! Hope to see more MCP terrain tutorials from you!
Thank you very much, I appreciate that! Now to just figure out that channel growth part!
Also glad that you reviewed and tested different techniques for the mortar work, because I was about to go and buy that Vallejos "ground texture" paste, but I can see the difference there and glad you brought it up. Keep up your stellar work!
I love the different heights to add more interest in the terrain
Yea, and I'm less concerned necessarily with ultimate playability than I am narrative and immersion, and I'm a huge sucker for tall buildings!
Your modeling skills are off the charts! Keep up the amazing work. ✌️
Thank you very much!
Absolutely amazing! When I get my hands on the apartment I'll defintiley be following step by step ❤️
Thank you very much!
Love it Jonathan!! More please? Thanks again!!
You got it! :)
Drywall compound? Mind blown.
It's so simple yet so effective!
this looks stunning, better than what I currently can do! my only input is that I usually put the decals and things like that before the amazing weathering goes down just to speed up the process
Thank you! I think it all depends on the story you're trying to tell! I wanted to have a variety of posters/graffitti/etc that are newer than the building they've been added to, so I did a bunch of weather on the building first, and then added the decals afterwards and did more weathering on top to have different "age" levels.
But absolutely if you want the decals and the building to age at the same rate, you can put the decals on first and weather everything together (like if they were the original building signs, as an example).
@@JohnathanHo that's a good point! I generally tend to like my posters and graffiti quite old and weathered so I put them on first to reduce the steps but if you want to have a variety of aged signs and posters and such that is a good point
Great tutorial thank you! Please can you remind what product you used for pigment sealing?
I use GW Purity Seal, although Mr Hobby Super Clear is a good substitute as Purity Seal no longer exists (I find GW Munitorum Spray has a slightly more satin finish than Purity Seal).
so good. was that graffiti art at the very end a printed modgepodged pieced of paper as well?
Printed on paper and mod podged on. I'm lazy that way ;)
Where did you get the decals from ?
They're just images I found on Google, cropped where necessary, and then printed (I took it to a print shop since I don't have a good printer at home).
Would it be possible to prime in white then dry brush on the brick color? I’m wondering if that would work or just still get red in the cracks etc.
Why would getting red in the cracks matter? The drywall compound fills in all the cracks anyways, so however you want to get the brick color on there shouldn't matter.