Thank you, this is so interesting and helpful! I'm doing tablet weaving on a warp weighted loom and I used this video to help me attach the warp weights. I made my own weights out of clay that I fired in my yard. Love your other videos too!
I have been wanting to write you for a while. I volunteer with Bethlehem Revisited, a historical reenactment/living nativity. I took over the weaver's shop last year and inherited a bundle of sticks and tangled masses of linen yarns. I watched all your videos multiple times and somehow managed to weave a quiet respectable looking 4 feet last year. I would watch the video, go to the site, watch the video again, undo what I had done wrong the day before and start over. No glasses mind you. Anyway, I made my own loom this year and am practicing now for the event. Thank you so much for making these videos. I finally got the continous heddle string figured out. Stopped 3/4 of the way through to write this note. I love your work. It is wonderful and greatly appreciated by me and all of the 25,000 visitors we had last year. Thank you.
I can't wait for the next video! It's so nice to see scary looking skills broken down into such simple steps, it helps me see how doable they really are. I'm going to have to put "build a loom" at the end of a lonnnng to-do list, but I might cheat and scoot it near the front of the line. :)
Greetings from Mississippi in the USA! As a person that has never woven anything more than a simple berry basket and a couple of net section, I am finding these videos very informative, I can't wait to see you get everything sorted so I can make my own and try my hand at weaving cloth. I'm hoping to grow flax next year to make linen (and maybe oil), and soon I'll be harvesting a bunch of Yucca leaves that I'll dry and use for baskets and cordage.
Usually one uses another kind of flax for oil or for linen. For linen you might prefer long stems with little side branches. For oil you prefer lots of side branches with lots of flowers and seeds.
I'm impressed with your dedication to weaving, would love to be able to do it myself one day. Although it seems that there's a lot more to it than I first hoped. So for now I'll just watch how somebody else does it.
Fascinating watching this series. Last year, my husband and I built a bandstøl from Telemark. It is an old loom and the oldest used to lean against a wall. Some of the older ones had pegs and even notches along the sides, which experts have wondered what they were for, as these looms have been used to weave narrow bands...however, they are long and narrow, but could have been used to weave toweling, perhaps? In a manner like these looms. Bit surprised no one has commented on that in the few books I have woven as the Sami have your style of upright loom and there could well be a link back to Viking & earlier cultures which then lead to development of bandstøl. I am no expert though...HOWEVER what caught my attention in this video is the technique of crocheting a string across to keep the width even. That is also done in the band loom, however, it also keeps colors of yarns together and helps the pattern come out clearer. As a newbie, I used a rigid heddle with the spalter, the elongated slots, as I was weaving a pickup band, and I wove the crochet edge, but then thought I did not need it, so I took it out and the pattern would not come out cleanly in the weaving until I put it in. The threads are grouped in the crochet loops by forward thread and back thread, so up shed and down, and then a pattern thread, so 3 threads per loop. And on the sides without the pattern, only two threads are crocheted in per loop, one from each shed. I wonder if that technique could have been used in very old times if one wove a patterned textile, but then one would need that crocheted chain across the top, closer to where one weaves. But neither here nor there.... it is just an interesting tidbit that I think may have been brought forward in time from looms like these to the bandstøl. My very non expert theory. Just noticing patterns. Although a big difference is that the bandstøl uses hanging sticks or lathes of varying widths to keep the shed separate from the pickup threads, so it makes weaving pickup amazingly fast and easy. I LOVE mine! I might make a loom like this for a Viking demo later this summer, but that depends on time. I am only demo'g spinning, but thought it might be fun to make one of these... my husband just cut down a stand of young trees, so am at least going to collect the pieces. (Have been watching other videos too, & planning to try some nettle cordage later this summer...we have a huge patch of nettles out behind the barn!) Often wish I had studied anthropology / archeology, but dabbling makes for fun hobbies too. Thank you for all the lovely videos. Lynne
Once caveat... Telemark is the primary area for these kind of looms, and the Sami were further north, but I would imagine upright looms were rather widespread over all of Norway at one point. Interesting to ponder.
From the construction of this loom it is very easy to see why the British are the way they are. I would love to see a Monty Python take on this particular bit of technology!
It's quite fascinating to trace it's appearance in central Europe at the start of the Neolithic and see how it spreads geographically, and also how many regions still have it as part of their living tradition. As a space efficient design that keeps even complex weaves out of the way of other household activities, it's easy to imagine those dramatic iron age cloths on it as a background to so many episodes of history that yes, would make excellent material for a Python sketch.
I saw warp weighted loom weights from historical sites in Greece recently. You said your weights are "quite heavy" but the weights I saw were not large. The weights were drilled stone or pottery, perhaps 1.5" in diameter. These obviously wouldn't weigh very much. So my question is this, given the light weights of the historical warp weighted looms, how would it affect weaving on your loom? How would they have kept the weights from swinging around and causing all manner of mischief?
You can make a warp as wide as your intended piece of fabric. The header doesn't need to be any wider though unless you want that as a decorative border, it's just to stabilise and space out the warp threads.
@@SallyPointer I’m going to start building one this summer, I hope I can pull it off! I am very interested in historic fiber arts and have always wanted to create fabric the way it was done historically, and use that fabric to create clothing once again in the ways it was done historically, or at least as close a guess as I can. I have had a hard time finding the ways in which people made clothing, I know Nalbinding was used for socks, mittens, etc, but I would like to find out what their replacement for or version of “sewingl was in the bronze and Iron Age for Germanic peoples
So....obviously for a project, all of the weights are the same all the way across... But do various projects call for different weights? And how heavy are these things?
Weights vary hugely, so it's a case of matching your yarn to the weights. Heavy weights can generally take more threads each than lighter ones, but you adjust to suit the tension you need
Thank you, this is so interesting and helpful! I'm doing tablet weaving on a warp weighted loom and I used this video to help me attach the warp weights. I made my own weights out of clay that I fired in my yard. Love your other videos too!
I have been wanting to write you for a while. I volunteer with Bethlehem Revisited, a historical reenactment/living nativity. I took over the weaver's shop last year and inherited a bundle of sticks and tangled masses of linen yarns. I watched all your videos multiple times and somehow managed to weave a quiet respectable looking 4 feet last year.
I would watch the video, go to the site, watch the video again, undo what I had done wrong the day before and start over. No glasses mind you.
Anyway, I made my own loom this year and am practicing now for the event. Thank you so much for making these videos. I finally got the continous heddle string figured out. Stopped 3/4 of the way through to write this note.
I love your work. It is wonderful and greatly appreciated by me and all of the 25,000 visitors we had last year. Thank you.
That's do lovely to hear, thank you for sharing it!
I can't wait for the next video! It's so nice to see scary looking skills broken down into such simple steps, it helps me see how doable they really are. I'm going to have to put "build a loom" at the end of a lonnnng to-do list, but I might cheat and scoot it near the front of the line. :)
Greetings from Mississippi in the USA!
As a person that has never woven anything more than a simple berry basket and a couple of net section, I am finding these videos very informative, I can't wait to see you get everything sorted so I can make my own and try my hand at weaving cloth.
I'm hoping to grow flax next year to make linen (and maybe oil), and soon I'll be harvesting a bunch of Yucca leaves that I'll dry and use for baskets and cordage.
Usually one uses another kind of flax for oil or for linen. For linen you might prefer long stems with little side branches. For oil you prefer lots of side branches with lots of flowers and seeds.
I’m so impressed with this whole project. Excited to see the next video. I’m admiring your baskets/ bowls also. Thank you. ❤️
I'm impressed with your dedication to weaving, would love to be able to do it myself one day. Although it seems that there's a lot more to it than I first hoped. So for now I'll just watch how somebody else does it.
Fascinating watching this series. Last year, my husband and I built a bandstøl from Telemark. It is an old loom and the oldest used to lean against a wall. Some of the older ones had pegs and even notches along the sides, which experts have wondered what they were for, as these looms have been used to weave narrow bands...however, they are long and narrow, but could have been used to weave toweling, perhaps? In a manner like these looms. Bit surprised no one has commented on that in the few books I have woven as the Sami have your style of upright loom and there could well be a link back to Viking & earlier cultures which then lead to development of bandstøl. I am no expert though...HOWEVER what caught my attention in this video is the technique of crocheting a string across to keep the width even. That is also done in the band loom, however, it also keeps colors of yarns together and helps the pattern come out clearer. As a newbie, I used a rigid heddle with the spalter, the elongated slots, as I was weaving a pickup band, and I wove the crochet edge, but then thought I did not need it, so I took it out and the pattern would not come out cleanly in the weaving until I put it in. The threads are grouped in the crochet loops by forward thread and back thread, so up shed and down, and then a pattern thread, so 3 threads per loop. And on the sides without the pattern, only two threads are crocheted in per loop, one from each shed. I wonder if that technique could have been used in very old times if one wove a patterned textile, but then one would need that crocheted chain across the top, closer to where one weaves. But neither here nor there.... it is just an interesting tidbit that I think may have been brought forward in time from looms like these to the bandstøl. My very non expert theory. Just noticing patterns. Although a big difference is that the bandstøl uses hanging sticks or lathes of varying widths to keep the shed separate from the pickup threads, so it makes weaving pickup amazingly fast and easy. I LOVE mine! I might make a loom like this for a Viking demo later this summer, but that depends on time. I am only demo'g spinning, but thought it might be fun to make one of these... my husband just cut down a stand of young trees, so am at least going to collect the pieces. (Have been watching other videos too, & planning to try some nettle cordage later this summer...we have a huge patch of nettles out behind the barn!) Often wish I had studied anthropology / archeology, but dabbling makes for fun hobbies too. Thank you for all the lovely videos. Lynne
Once caveat... Telemark is the primary area for these kind of looms, and the Sami were further north, but I would imagine upright looms were rather widespread over all of Norway at one point. Interesting to ponder.
That's fascinating, thank you!
It's kind of like sewing something... It's all the prep work that takes forever. The actual sewing is the easy part. LOL
Really interesting as always!
From the construction of this loom it is very easy to see why the British are the way they are. I would love to see a Monty Python take on this particular bit of technology!
It's quite fascinating to trace it's appearance in central Europe at the start of the Neolithic and see how it spreads geographically, and also how many regions still have it as part of their living tradition. As a space efficient design that keeps even complex weaves out of the way of other household activities, it's easy to imagine those dramatic iron age cloths on it as a background to so many episodes of history that yes, would make excellent material for a Python sketch.
I saw warp weighted loom weights from historical sites in Greece recently. You said your weights are "quite heavy" but the weights I saw were not large. The weights were drilled stone or pottery, perhaps 1.5" in diameter. These obviously wouldn't weigh very much. So my question is this, given the light weights of the historical warp weighted looms, how would it affect weaving on your loom? How would they have kept the weights from swinging around and causing all manner of mischief?
Larger weights support more or thicker threads. Small weighted need more of them and/or finer thread. The chaining row really helps stop movement.
How would we do this with much more yarn to make a much larger piece of fabric? Would we do this, but with more sets of cards?
You can make a warp as wide as your intended piece of fabric. The header doesn't need to be any wider though unless you want that as a decorative border, it's just to stabilise and space out the warp threads.
@@SallyPointer I’m going to start building one this summer, I hope I can pull it off! I am very interested in historic fiber arts and have always wanted to create fabric the way it was done historically, and use that fabric to create clothing once again in the ways it was done historically, or at least as close a guess as I can. I have had a hard time finding the ways in which people made clothing, I know Nalbinding was used for socks, mittens, etc, but I would like to find out what their replacement for or version of “sewingl was in the bronze and Iron Age for Germanic peoples
I love Tesla. I often end up with lambs helping 🙈
Your work loos now really neat. But is your Cat really called Tesla?
He is, Nikolai Tesla was Gareth's favourite 19thc scientist, so the cat got named for him.
So....obviously for a project, all of the weights are the same all the way across... But do various projects call for different weights?
And how heavy are these things?
Weights vary hugely, so it's a case of matching your yarn to the weights. Heavy weights can generally take more threads each than lighter ones, but you adjust to suit the tension you need