One method of establishing a zero point with any equatorial mount. Only takes about 10-15 minutes and some self-adhesive labels for marking the zero point.
Thanks for filling in a huge blank for a newb to telescopes/astronomy, who was frustrated with why my new CEM60 wouldn't point even close to the correct location after a rough polar alignment. The user manuals on these things aren't written for beginners.
Paul, Thank you for your very informative videos. I love this mount, I mounted an Orion XT8 OTA, added Orion rings & 13" dovetail. Total OTA weight 26lbs. Extended counter weight an added 5lb weight. Tracks great, drawing 200ma, up to 400mawhen slewing. I also mounted a 20 arc min. circular vial to a plate on the side tripod head. This gives me excellent repeatability in set up. As a surveying instrument/construction laser tech, I must say Your tune-up videos are the best.Joseph C. Adrignola President JCA Laser Service Co Inc.
Nicely done. However, do you find that placing the level on the tripod spreader to be inaccurate? I've seen those things tilt when the locking knob gets tightened. Instead, I simply level the tripod first using the torpedo level and then add the mount/head after the tripod is level.
That has to be the clearest "zero-point" video I've ever seen. Well done. This mount is on my short list. Can you control it from a laptop (thru ASCOM)?
Im pretty much a total noob and I just got this mount, your videos have been very good to learn from. When I get polar aligned I can't see Polaris in my telescope, do I need to zero it using this method?
Paul, When you say exact center for the polar scope, do you mean after set up to Polaris position as per the handset? My area is about 40 degrees and on the clock face at the time. When that is correct, then Polaris should be centre on the OTA? Thanks Paul. I have the CEM25.
Paul, just a question....does it matter during the zero.point setup whether the locking knobs are situated to the right or to the left looking into the mount (and into polaris)?
Hi Paul, After time 5:40 in the video you say that you have a repeatable "zero position". Do you actually save this new position on the hand controller. So that when you go to zero on the controller it goes back to where you've set?
Hi Paul my battery in my HC needs a new battery since it defaults to 2011 can I still accurately still use the HC and just input the new date and time on each use? Or would a new battery make the unit more accurate? (The screw heads are stripped so I can't remove them and change the battery) I debating if purchasing a new HC is worth it, when I slew too targets I still get pretty close, but when I make adjustments and put the target in the center it only stays there for a 1-3 minutes before I need to readjust-even when i put it on sync to target.... Do you think this is purely an alignment issue, or does the controller battery has some influence?
Hello Umar, I suggest replacing the HC battery. You can manually input the correct data but every time you power off the mount it will continue to default to the 2011 data.
Thanks for filling in a huge blank for a newb to telescopes/astronomy, who was frustrated with why my new CEM60 wouldn't point even close to the correct location after a rough polar alignment. The user manuals on these things aren't written for beginners.
Paul, Thank you for your very informative videos. I love this mount, I mounted an Orion XT8 OTA, added Orion rings & 13" dovetail. Total OTA weight 26lbs. Extended counter weight an added 5lb weight. Tracks great, drawing 200ma, up to 400mawhen slewing. I also mounted a 20 arc min. circular vial to a plate on the side tripod head. This gives me excellent repeatability in set up. As a surveying instrument/construction laser tech, I must say Your tune-up videos are the best.Joseph C. Adrignola President JCA Laser Service Co Inc.
Thanks for a great video on Zero point a mount. Helped me a lot !!! All the best, clear skies and shine on
Thanks Paul, great video and easy to understand to establishing a zero point for my ZEQ25
Nicely done. However, do you find that placing the level on the tripod spreader to be inaccurate? I've seen those things tilt when the locking knob gets tightened. Instead, I simply level the tripod first using the torpedo level and then add the mount/head after the tripod is level.
Either way has it flaws as you can not get tension on the spreader without the mount on it.
That has to be the clearest "zero-point" video I've ever seen. Well done. This mount is on my short list. Can you control it from a laptop (thru ASCOM)?
I understand you can no problem with the ZEQ25
I confirm that you can.
Check out Salazar's UA-cam video on the subject.
Im pretty much a total noob and I just got this mount, your videos have been very good to learn from. When I get polar aligned I can't see Polaris in my telescope, do I need to zero it using this method?
Brilliant - thank you very much!
Paul, When you say exact center for the polar scope, do you mean after set up to Polaris position as per the handset? My area is about 40 degrees and on the clock face at the time. When that is correct, then Polaris should be centre on the OTA? Thanks Paul. I have the CEM25.
Thank you Paul!
Paul, just a question....does it matter during the zero.point setup whether the locking knobs are situated to the right or to the left looking into the mount (and into polaris)?
.
Not really Aravind, just a matter of preference
Nice job! very clear video. Thanks!
Thanks Paul, I choose the stellarvue 102 with this mount..what is that guiding scope you used?
I dont exactly understand when you have done this do you then just level the tripod when using it?
Hi Paul, with gem45g is different, true?
Hi Paul,
After time 5:40 in the video you say that you have a repeatable "zero position". Do you actually save this new position on the hand controller. So that when you go to zero on the controller it goes back to where you've set?
Thanks Paul!
Which mount would you recommend for a 150mm f/5 imaging Newt with a 72mm 5 element guider?
At least a GEM mount for your set up.
Hi Paul my battery in my HC needs a new battery since it defaults to 2011 can I still accurately still use the HC and just input the new date and time on each use? Or would a new battery make the unit more accurate? (The screw heads are stripped so I can't remove them and change the battery) I debating if purchasing a new HC is worth it, when I slew too targets I still get pretty close, but when I make adjustments and put the target in the center it only stays there for a 1-3 minutes before I need to readjust-even when i put it on sync to target.... Do you think this is purely an alignment issue, or does the controller battery has some influence?
Hello Umar, I suggest replacing the HC battery. You can manually input the correct data but every time you power off the mount it will continue to default to the 2011 data.
Where did you get the "T" level?
Perfect.....
Yes, I control mine using a laptop with TheSky6,
You were talking too fast for me to catch the name you were calling that counterweight. It sounded like "new svell counterweight".
"New style counterweight"
Great video. That factory saddle is garbage and needs to be replaced