Nice. I bought some Honeywell transducers for mine. I made my box where it has three outputs for transducers so I can run in cylinder, exhaust, and intake at the same time. I used three harnesses that exit the box that are keyed and have threaded ends. That way I don’t have to plug and unplug that fragile three pin pigtail that fits the transducers. I made a simple box with battery clamps first, used it for a while, and took notes on things that would make it more convenient. If you haven’t done so yet you should also make a DIY first look sensor. For less than $20 it’s a handy tool in certain situations.
No I did not even think about that. I have not played around with a lot of capacitors in electronic circuits. The only ones I mess with are the ones you find on HVAC equipment (start and run capacitors) Overall, I thought it got a pretty good signal, but I dont know, adding a capacitor might make it even better. Thanks for the tip, I might try that next time I build one. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
Normally, a large capacitor is used on the input to the voltage regulator and a small capacitor on the output to help filter any noise out of your circuit. You can find plenty of example circuits online. I am thinking about using the same pressure transducers for reading refrigerant pressures in my home HVAC. Also, I want to read refrigerant line temperatures to calculate superheat and subcool using a Raspberry PI 3.
Thanks for your video! Very inspiring! I've just ordered the Picoscope 4425 (As I need a professional graphic interface to print results and Pico Automotive supplies the best PC based interface for their Automotive scopes. So I've looked to add also a pressure transducer for having an absolute pressure reading in addition to the electric relative compression test the scope gives. I just have a few question please: 1. Why to reduce the volt from 12V to 5V? Do you know what voltage output the Picoscope would handle the best? 2. Can I use a BNC based cabling instead on your 4mm based Banana connections? What would be the wiring of a BNC cable into the box? Which is signal and which is the ground pls? 3. If I'm not wrong, a healthy engine should give around 200 PSI. Would it be better to use a 300 PSI transducer and to gain more accuracy instead of the almost twice the time un-needed high pressure support? Thank you!
The ones I used were not brand name specific. I bought mine off of ebay, I got one that said 500 psi and one that said 1000 psi. If you go on ebay and type pressure transducer you will find them for many applications, it just depends on what you are trying to do. On ebay on most listings it will have the specs for the transducer. Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
Yeah as far as I can tell that looks exactly like the ones I bought on Ebay for my 0-1000 psi transducer, and my 0-500 psi transducer. They both looked the same just had different psi pressure ratings on them was the only real difference. Well I hope this info helps you out. Have a good day.
ordered all the parts to make a transducer for 500 psi, my question is why some people have 500 and 100 and 30 psi transducers when the 500psi will go from 500 to a vacuum. seems like this would be a pretty general use unit.
Nice work. I suggest putting a diode for protection from reverse connection. Few months ago, I planned to do so but I stuck with fittings. Could you guide me ? thanks
Having a diode might be a good idea, if I change my design I may use a diode in the future, as well as a few other upgrades. This video for me was more of a proof of concept and I built it very cheaply. As far the fittings go, I just adapted the transducer I bought to fit a standard compression gauge hose, which has a male quick connect fitting on the end of it. So the way I built mine was using the transducer which mine came with a 1/8 npt fitting on it (I think). I had to adapt that fitting to fit a 1/4 npt fitting (I think). So that required me to have a fitting that had a 1/8 female to a 1/4 male fitting. Which would screw into a 1/4 female quick connect fitting to fit the compression hose. Basically I just went to harbor freight and bought my quick connect fittings and then I took my transducer and quick connect fitting and I went to the hardware store and basically put it all together in the store and I just bought the adapter fitting from the hardware store. Well I hope that makes sense I am not to good at explaining what the fittings are called (I tell you I am the worst plumber) I would think if you could find a transducer that comes with a 1/4 fitting you could hook that directly without having to use an adapter (that would be the best way to go I think) If you search ebay for 500 psi pressure transducer you can probably find the same one I used. Also I think the ebay ad I looked at had a link for adapter fitting as well for different applications. Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
Nice. I bought some Honeywell transducers for mine. I made my box where it has three outputs for transducers so I can run in cylinder, exhaust, and intake at the same time. I used three harnesses that exit the box that are keyed and have threaded ends. That way I don’t have to plug and unplug that fragile three pin pigtail that fits the transducers. I made a simple box with battery clamps first, used it for a while, and took notes on things that would make it more convenient. If you haven’t done so yet you should also make a DIY first look sensor. For less than $20 it’s a handy tool in certain situations.
Thanks for watching!
can you do a video for your project?
thanks
Good job
Thank you, I appreciate it. Have a good day.
I think I'm using your template. Seems simple and achievable by anyone
Have you thought about adding a cap on the 5v to ground to clean up the power signal?
No I did not even think about that. I have not played around with a lot of capacitors in electronic circuits. The only ones I mess with are the ones you find on HVAC equipment (start and run capacitors) Overall, I thought it got a pretty good signal, but I dont know, adding a capacitor might make it even better. Thanks for the tip, I might try that next time I build one. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
hello travis . what is the cap MF and volt should be to clean the signal thanks
Normally, a large capacitor is used on the input to the voltage regulator and a small capacitor on the output to help filter any noise out of your circuit. You can find plenty of example circuits online. I am thinking about using the same pressure transducers for reading refrigerant pressures in my home HVAC. Also, I want to read refrigerant line temperatures to calculate superheat and subcool using a Raspberry PI 3.
Yes agree, if you are going to power this from a car battery a 100uf on the input and 10uf on the output will knock out the alternator noise
Where did you find the box for them
Hi, do you have a screenshot for the in-cylinder test? Im not getting a nice detail on my waveform.
My husband passed away, and I don't have any answers for you. Sorry. Thanks for watching anyway.
@@figibloom sorry for your lost .
Thank you.
@@figibloom what happened how he died
Can you send me a link or something for the voltage regulator
merci pour la video
does it handle negative pressure {vacuum] for in cylinder testing on scope ?
good work and easy cheesy
Thanks for watching!
How well did this work with your Hantek scope? I just bought a 1008c and am new to scopes. How do you like Hantek products? Thanks.
My husband passed away, and I don't have any answers for you. Sorry. Thanks for watching anyway!
@@figibloomunfortunately, 🙁🙁😔
Thanks for your video! Very inspiring! I've just ordered the Picoscope 4425 (As I need a professional graphic interface to print results and Pico Automotive supplies the best PC based interface for their Automotive scopes. So I've looked to add also a pressure transducer for having an absolute pressure reading in addition to the electric relative compression test the scope gives.
I just have a few question please:
1. Why to reduce the volt from 12V to 5V? Do you know what voltage output the Picoscope would handle the best?
2. Can I use a BNC based cabling instead on your 4mm based Banana connections? What would be the wiring of a BNC cable into the box? Which is signal and which is the ground pls?
3. If I'm not wrong, a healthy engine should give around 200 PSI. Would it be better to use a 300 PSI transducer and to gain more accuracy instead of the almost twice the time un-needed high pressure support?
Thank you!
My husband passed away, and I don't have any answers. Sorry. Thanks for watching anyway.
Can you please specify the pressure transducer type? I cannot find one which would be good for the range 0 - 1000 PSI
The ones I used were not brand name specific. I bought mine off of ebay, I got one that said 500 psi and one that said 1000 psi. If you go on ebay and type pressure transducer you will find them for many applications, it just depends on what you are trying to do. On ebay on most listings it will have the specs for the transducer. Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
Yeah as far as I can tell that looks exactly like the ones I bought on Ebay for my 0-1000 psi transducer, and my 0-500 psi transducer. They both looked the same just had different psi pressure ratings on them was the only real difference. Well I hope this info helps you out. Have a good day.
Thanks. You too.
ordered all the parts to make a transducer for 500 psi, my question is why some people have 500 and 100 and 30 psi transducers when the 500psi will go from 500 to a vacuum. seems like this would be a pretty general use unit.
Simple -> Accuracy. With a 500psi sensor 12.5psi/0.1V with a 30psi sensor 0.75psi/0.1V.
Resolution (not accuracy).
Nice work. I suggest putting a diode for protection from reverse connection.
Few months ago, I planned to do so but I stuck with fittings. Could you guide me ? thanks
Having a diode might be a good idea, if I change my design I may use a diode in the future, as well as a few other upgrades. This video for me was more of a proof of concept and I built it very cheaply. As far the fittings go, I just adapted the transducer I bought to fit a standard compression gauge hose, which has a male quick connect fitting on the end of it. So the way I built mine was using the transducer which mine came with a 1/8 npt fitting on it (I think). I had to adapt that fitting to fit a 1/4 npt fitting (I think). So that required me to have a fitting that had a 1/8 female to a 1/4 male fitting. Which would screw into a 1/4 female quick connect fitting to fit the compression hose. Basically I just went to harbor freight and bought my quick connect fittings and then I took my transducer and quick connect fitting and I went to the hardware store and basically put it all together in the store and I just bought the adapter fitting from the hardware store. Well I hope that makes sense I am not to good at explaining what the fittings are called (I tell you I am the worst plumber) I would think if you could find a transducer that comes with a 1/4 fitting you could hook that directly without having to use an adapter (that would be the best way to go I think) If you search ebay for 500 psi pressure transducer you can probably find the same one I used. Also I think the ebay ad I looked at had a link for adapter fitting as well for different applications. Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
Man all you're missing is links to the parts
That's a great idea. Thanks.