Mr Pete, I wish you wouldn't 'spare us the details' especially making things like those little T slot nuts. The techniques of order of operations and methods of holding and machining such delicate little critters is priceless, maybe commonplace for you but many viewers would benefit from your knowledge and experience with these details. I realise repetition is a turnoff but skilled detail work is priceless. Thank you for your efforts. I suspect your time spent in the workshop could probably be doubled when setting up cameras, editing and uploading the video is taken into account. That is what puts me off producing content.
"Is EVERYBODY happy?" ...Mr. Pete, I have adopted this phrase from you. I use it in the theatre that I manage, both for warming up the crowd when I welcome everyone to a show, and also to kick off my Summer youth theatre camp every morning. It's always a hit !!
As a viewer for many years of your videos, I am very excited to see you taking on the little Unimat! It's the only lathe that I own, although I've had my hands on a a couple of Atlas lathes at the pipe organ shop where I work. I have arranged a monthly donation to you in payment for all the past and future education and pleasure that you have given me watching your wonderful videos. A cup of coffee and the latest Mr. Pete video is the best way to start a day!☕ Best regards, Russ
Another spectacular video sir. You are the best internet shop teacher ever! I'm a retired toolmaker and really enjoy your videos. Been with you a long time and still fascinated with the way you make stuff happen👍
Interesting video Mr Pete. The second type of T nut you made are actually the way Emco supplied them with the Unimat. They were like this on the Unimat I owned some time ago. Myford lathes were also fitted with T Nuts like this. The raised round part giving more thread engagement. Thanks Mr Pete. Cheers Nobby @nobbysworkshop
When I made mine, I quickly discovered it was cut with a special cutter I don't have. Nothing I have can make a T slot that matches the original T nuts. So I did what I could. My stock was recycled and had relief cut out on the back side so i could only make one slot. I cannot imagine cutting iron with the tools required to fit those oem T nuts. Great job, and your slot looks identical to mine.
Glad you had fun, yes very enjoyable to see new features added to a machine. The position that the handwheel prevented assembly, is a mostly-useless position, and still doable if absolutely needed by making a new handwheel.
Thank you so much for making these videos. I liked your point toward the end, the time involved in making this, sure, you could just go buy it and be done. But by making it, you developed the skills. And I respect your time and teaching ability, I didn't get to go to shop class, now I get to go learn a little at a time from a master. Thank you.
Mr. Pete, I made T-nuts for my Sherline mill and had VERY much the same experience. At a point I decided getting a second job, to pay Sherlines premium prices, was almost better than making them by hand...
You've just given me the inspiration to make a milling attachment for my 20X80 Boye' & Emmes,so many times I've needed to mill a key way on a shaft,thanks for the video🤗😎🤗😎
I enjoyed this very much. I particularly like the videos where you machine things. My Unimat didn’t come with this table, but I copped out and bought one on eBay. It looks like you had the hold downs. I bought those too. I have more into the accessories for my Unimat than I do in the lathe itself. Fortunately it came with power feed, that a particularly expensive accessory. I paid a pretty penny for the indexing attachment and plates.
As foolish as this may be - this is exactly what I am doing. I bought a Unimat 3 that had everything except the table, so your video clarified quite a few points especially around mounting the table.
I miss watching you actually do the machining. Not the talking and explaining what you’re going to do and then, “I’m not going to show any of that.” but then come back with the finished operation. Just a couple pennies from a viewer.
What a great little project. I think the DB200 comes with a smaller table so it's even better. I sent you a couple of things, should have it in the next day or two. One of the pieces will fit the little Unimat.
I hope you got that tiny live center. It is small, but works. I sent you a better one, but it will need a sleeve added to fit it into the tailstock. I also sent you some silver marking pens that are great for marking on black stuff and don't hurt the surface.@@mrpete222
Hi Lyle, as a matter of interest, the old SL I had, had a power feed attachment. If you look at Niels Machinen, he had one featured a while back. Love your informative videos as always👍😁👀
The original T-nuts look like your second batch with the collar to give more threads, but still have the square shape. I'm made many of them over the years because i used to over tighten them, they all eventually snap.
Lyle - Another good video. Learned a bit as I have never had to cut a tee slot - yet. Spent a couple hours yesterday afternoon making the dovetail part of the double indicator holder to fit an Aloris that you did in Tips 421. Had a brain cramp and it ended up a tad wider than it should, but still will lock up so will be usable. One suggestion - when your are using specialized cutters like the Woodruff or dovetail it would be helpful if you mentioned the speeds and feeds you used as it would give a starting point. And save going to Moltrecht to do the calculations - LOL. Thanks and keep up the good work, we really enjoy it. Dale
Thanks Mr. Pete for the video I have a Unimat I don't know if I will make a table for it I use it mostly for turning small parts. But they are a lot of fun. Always a thumbs UP from me!
lol metric vs imperial ... as an architect / mechanical draftsman i had to learn not only metric and imperial but scale and other measurement systems from the middle ages...i have learnt 1 they all have use . 2 learn to use the one best suited to your task. 3 it has been my experience here in canada where we are metric lol our goods and materials still are produced to imperial standards ... that unrememberable number of mm is still a 4x8 sheet in 1/4 /12 3/4 or 1 inch thick and 6 13 and 25.4mm are still 1/4 1/2 and 1 inch . the world may measure it in metric but its made in imperial for most things. thanks for the videos
Thank you for that analysis. I totally agree. I have many people in Europe that are angry at me for using inches in feet. They do not realize that the United States was the arsenal of democracy and supplied the entire world with armaments using the inch system, lol.
@@mrpete222 and yet inch fractional ...is imperial measurement based off english kings anatomy... we could do it in spans palms cubits and fingers... links rods chains and let the europeans tell you y in the metric system a 6mm not 10 mm screw is the most common?
Once again, an offhand comment triggered a light bulb over my head. Something to the effect, 'I'll lay those out w/ the height gage.' I would never have thought of setting the height gage, then sliding it past the material, all while on the granite, to get absolutely parallel lines. But then, I couldn't take machine shop in high school because I was already taking the 2 period drafting class AND the 2 period wood shop/construction class. They didn't like 2, & absolutely refused a 3rd! Question regarding the end mill passes. My mill refuses to do anything but break end mills if I climb mill. When you make a slotting cut like you did, is the force on the mill the same no matter the direction? Or would one direction be climb & the other conventional? Re: small tee nuts Much experience w/ those. Sherline makes square T-nuts w/ 10-32 holes. They have a short neck like your V 2.0. They also make an inch tall one for use when there's room. The short ones strip out after a while, the tall ones pull the 'T' off the bottom. I bought some rectangular T-nuts, but they weren't hard enough & not heat treated. First, I switched to 10-32 studs & nuts, instead of headed screws, to decrease stress on the few threads, which helped longevity of the nuts. Second, I used "Cherry Red" to case harden the rectangular ones & replacements I made. Third, I redesign several different T-nuts w/ different 'neck' lengths for attaching specific items down to the carriage T-slots. Not having a compound carriage, the Sherline has a 2 T-slot table as the top surface of the cross slide. The tool post mounts on it, the knurler mounts on it, & the parting tool I made does as well. I designed both to mount so they work from behind the spindle center. Turning the parting blade upside down creates downward force on the spindle; these little lathes are more rigid in that direction. Helps w/ knurling, even though it's a scissor style. If you know what length studs you have use for, I bought a variety of long set screws to use as studs, be happy to send some your way. In several sizes, it was cheapest to buy a box, so I have plenty to share. Make nice studs because they haveca hex in one end. Don't recall if I have any 12-xx, but lots of 10-xx & ¼-xx. If you mount your unimat to a piece of plate, see if you can scavenge a sink cutout from a local granite countertop installer. They usually throw them away. Combined w/ steel on top & some 6061 on the bottom, the resulting sandwich makes a rigid & dense base for little lathes & mills. Adding the density of the stone makes a surprising difference in vibration dampening. Thanks, as always. Regards, George
@16:56 "these insignificant little pieces" I disagree. If those T-nuts fail, the table starts moving, scrapping the work and maybe the entire machine. Yes these vital parts are small but they took an appropriately long amount of time to create correctly after the shortcut experiment and you have every right to feel proud of that time investment. Whenever I find myself thinking that I'm working on something insignificant, I'm likely to be a bit sloppy in my execution. Not a good attitude to ever bring into the shop. Once I ask myself what would happen if that part failed, I get my mind right again and can safely continue. (Yes, I talk to myself out there and occasionally argue with myself.)
Came to the comments to say the same thing, if the holes are equidistant you would get at least 2 cutting directions at 45', don't know if it would fit pointing toward the cross slide wheel, but if it does there's the other 2 positions. If you were so inclined, and if the holes fitted between the T slots right, you could bore holes to give 60' and 30' as well.
Mr. Pete, as you test the milling table, would you keep in mind this question? would it be more reasonable to assemble to Unimat as a mill, or to keep it assembled as a lathe but adding a milling attachment? I have used it as a mill but it does not behave rigid enough. Drilling is ok, facing with an endmill is not. It does not help that I do not have a collet for an endmill. If first things first, I am still trying to figure the very first one I need, ha!
I used to use my SL in mill configuration all the time, and even made a 3/8" endmill holder for it. You can't hog metal like crazy, but it was rigid enough for many years of use. Light cuts help, but I think the mass of the cutter and holder actually helped with the vibration. The holder was made on the unimat from a Acura axle stub (cut to a smaller size, of course!)
Thank you so much for making these videos. I liked your point toward the end, the time involved in making this, sure, you could just go buy it and be done. But by making it, you developed the skills. And I respect your time and teaching ability, I didn't get to go to shop class, now I get to go learn a little at a time from a master. Thank you.
Mr Pete, I wish you wouldn't 'spare us the details' especially making things like those little T slot nuts. The techniques of order of operations and methods of holding and machining such delicate little critters is priceless, maybe commonplace for you but many viewers would benefit from your knowledge and experience with these details. I realise repetition is a turnoff but skilled detail work is priceless.
Thank you for your efforts. I suspect your time spent in the workshop could probably be doubled when setting up cameras, editing and uploading the video is taken into account. That is what puts me off producing content.
*grin* You only get an A instead of an A+ since you didn't show all of your work.
"Is EVERYBODY happy?" ...Mr. Pete, I have adopted this phrase from you. I use it in the theatre that I manage, both for warming up the crowd when I welcome everyone to a show, and also to kick off my Summer youth theatre camp every morning. It's always a hit !!
👍👍👍👍👍😄😄😄😄
You are one of my greatest inspirations Lyle ! Thank you.
Wow, thank you
It warms my heart that Mr. Pete had fun doing this project.
Good morning Mr Pete. Great video. The process of making your own product is very exciting.
Thank you very much for the fantastic video. I like how detailed you are, yet with no redundancy.
As a viewer for many years of your videos, I am very excited to see you taking on the little Unimat! It's the only lathe that I own, although I've had my hands on a a couple of Atlas lathes at the pipe organ shop where I work.
I have arranged a monthly donation to you in payment for all the past and future education and pleasure that you have given me watching your wonderful videos.
A cup of coffee and the latest Mr. Pete video is the best way to start a day!☕
Best regards,
Russ
Thank you very much Russ
Ten thumbs up for this video! As usual, you teach us _what_ you are doing, and _why_ you are doing it.
I appreciate that!
Nice to see the Unimat getting lots of coverage! From Ottawa On, to Ottawa at Lost Creek. Bill Kirkland ;)
Sure is!
Another spectacular video sir. You are the best internet shop teacher ever! I'm a retired toolmaker and really enjoy your videos. Been with you a long time and still fascinated with the way you make stuff happen👍
👍👍👍👍
I like watching you make things!
Always good to see a picture of Jan
Very satisfying to watch the milling of the T slots!
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you Mr Pete. I'm glad you enjoying your shop.
Thank you. That short film gave me a couple of good ideas for experiments that I might try. Very well produced !☘️
Great video Lyle. Thanks for posting this one.
Interesting video Mr Pete. The second type of T nut you made are actually the way Emco supplied them with the Unimat. They were like this on the Unimat I owned some time ago. Myford lathes were also fitted with T Nuts like this. The raised round part giving more thread engagement. Thanks Mr Pete. Cheers Nobby
@nobbysworkshop
When I made mine, I quickly discovered it was cut with a special cutter I don't have. Nothing I have can make a T slot that matches the original T nuts. So I did what I could. My stock was recycled and had relief cut out on the back side so i could only make one slot. I cannot imagine cutting iron with the tools required to fit those oem T nuts. Great job, and your slot looks identical to mine.
👍👍👍
Glad you had fun, yes very enjoyable to see new features added to a machine. The position that the handwheel prevented assembly, is a mostly-useless position, and still doable if absolutely needed by making a new handwheel.
Thank you so much for making these videos. I liked your point toward the end, the time involved in making this, sure, you could just go buy it and be done. But by making it, you developed the skills. And I respect your time and teaching ability, I didn't get to go to shop class, now I get to go learn a little at a time from a master. Thank you.
Very enjoyable,mrpete and you are now even more wealthy with the addition of a new milling table to your arsenal.Thank you.
Mr. Pete, I made T-nuts for my Sherline mill and had VERY much the same experience. At a point I decided getting a second job, to pay Sherlines premium prices, was almost better than making them by hand...
True
You've just given me the inspiration to make a milling attachment for my 20X80 Boye' & Emmes,so many times I've needed to mill a key way on a shaft,thanks for the video🤗😎🤗😎
Go for it!
Very helpful. I have a cast iron tilting table for the mill, which needs the taper in the t-slots corrected.
Glad it helped
I enjoyed this very much. I particularly like the videos where you machine things. My Unimat didn’t come with this table, but I copped out and bought one on eBay. It looks like you had the hold downs. I bought those too. I have more into the accessories for my Unimat than I do in the lathe itself. Fortunately it came with power feed, that a particularly expensive accessory. I paid a pretty penny for the indexing attachment and plates.
👍👍
As foolish as this may be - this is exactly what I am doing. I bought a Unimat 3 that had everything except the table, so your video clarified quite a few points especially around mounting the table.
👍👍
I miss watching you actually do the machining. Not the talking and explaining what you’re going to do and then, “I’m not going to show any of that.” but then come back with the finished operation. Just a couple pennies from a viewer.
I agree. We love Mr Pete but I would like more actual machining shots.
Agreed
What a great little project. I think the DB200 comes with a smaller table so it's even better. I sent you a couple of things, should have it in the next day or two. One of the pieces will fit the little Unimat.
Cool, thanks
I hope you got that tiny live center. It is small, but works. I sent you a better one, but it will need a sleeve added to fit it into the tailstock. I also sent you some silver marking pens that are great for marking on black stuff and don't hurt the surface.@@mrpete222
7:02 It was at this point that Mr Pete wondered how he survived so long without a power feed on the mill table. :)
True
Hi Lyle, as a matter of interest, the old SL I had, had a power feed attachment. If you look at Niels Machinen, he had one featured a while back.
Love your informative videos as always👍😁👀
Thank you, I will check that out
The original T-nuts look like your second batch with the collar to give more threads, but still have the square shape. I'm made many of them over the years because i used to over tighten them, they all eventually snap.
Now you need a tiny vise to go on that table. That is , of course, if you don't already have one in your vise collection!
Thank you Mr. Pete!
That came out great, excellent work and video Mr. Pete!
Great video, it would have been amazing if the Unimat was used to build the milling system. It's good to see machine self upgrading.
Great, Thats my homework given out to do on my unimat journey😅
Thank you Professor
Lyle - Another good video. Learned a bit as I have never had to cut a tee slot - yet. Spent a couple hours yesterday afternoon making the dovetail part of the double indicator holder to fit an Aloris that you did in Tips 421. Had a brain cramp and it ended up a tad wider than it should, but still will lock up so will be usable. One suggestion - when your are using specialized cutters like the Woodruff or dovetail it would be helpful if you mentioned the speeds and feeds you used as it would give a starting point. And save going to Moltrecht to do the calculations - LOL. Thanks and keep up the good work, we really enjoy it. Dale
👍👍👍
thank you Lyle, I would love to make a table for my 13" South Bend.....
guess I will have to up size your idea......cheers, Paul in Florida
Thanks Mr. Pete for the video I have a Unimat I don't know if I will make a table for it I use it mostly for turning small parts. But they are a lot of fun. Always a thumbs UP from me!
👍👍
That was very nice, maybe I will make one to my Unimate too.
Nice addition to the Unimat, could come in handy.
Good morning Randy
Nice to watch.
I'm only happy when I watch your video's.
😄😄😄😄
nice litle project mrpete !
cheers ben.
Thanks again
lol metric vs imperial ... as an architect / mechanical draftsman i had to learn not only metric and imperial but scale and other measurement systems from the middle ages...i have learnt 1 they all have use . 2 learn to use the one best suited to your task. 3 it has been my experience here in canada where we are metric lol our goods and materials still are produced to imperial standards ... that unrememberable number of mm is still a 4x8 sheet in 1/4 /12 3/4 or 1 inch thick and 6 13 and 25.4mm are still 1/4 1/2 and 1 inch . the world may measure it in metric but its made in imperial for most things. thanks for the videos
Thank you for that analysis. I totally agree. I have many people in Europe that are angry at me for using inches in feet.
They do not realize that the United States was the arsenal of democracy and supplied the entire world with armaments using the inch system, lol.
@@mrpete222 and yet inch fractional ...is imperial measurement based off english kings anatomy... we could do it in spans palms cubits and fingers... links rods chains and let the europeans tell you y in the metric system a 6mm not 10 mm screw is the most common?
Thanks Mr Pete
I just turned a vertical column for my SL1000. Now I can use it as a mill.
👍👍
Mr Pete what great video !
Nice job, great video! Unfortunately I've alread bought one for the mini lathe...
Having fun!
Really enjoy your project videos, Mr. Pete. You must be in studio B this time of year.
Vevor power feed. Cool.
salut
merci pour tout
du Canada
The eighth position would be a diagonal....
I've never seen a Unimat with the vertical height screw like that, I assume its a very nice bit of DIY. Good video thank you
Big job on a small lathe. Well done. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Mr.Pete! Why do you brush the chips off near the end of the cut? Is that just for us? Love your videos and your sense of humor! Thank you Mr.Pete!
Yes, thanks
Lotsa good tips!!!
I look forward to the rest of the unimat. Maybe I can finally start on mine that's dusting away..
You seem like a stand up guy. Really cool.
Mr Pete, make a custom power feed for it. :)
Thanks for the video...wonderful detail
I’m thinking 16 different ways that the table could be mounted.
Hi Mr. Pete. The plans are posted.
Joe
Thank you, Joe
Would be great to show us how you made those T-nuts.
Your dad was only 59 when he passed? That’s very young.
Great work !! Thanks Mr pete
Good stuff !!
Paraphrasing a friend, "Winter is God's way of telling you to go down in the basement and (hobby)."
👍👍👍
Once again, an offhand comment triggered a light bulb over my head.
Something to the effect, 'I'll lay those out w/ the height gage.'
I would never have thought of setting the height gage, then sliding it past the material, all while on the granite, to get absolutely parallel lines.
But then, I couldn't take machine shop in high school because I was already taking the 2 period drafting class AND the 2 period wood shop/construction class.
They didn't like 2, & absolutely refused a 3rd!
Question regarding the end mill passes. My mill refuses to do anything but break end mills if I climb mill.
When you make a slotting cut like you did, is the force on the mill the same no matter the direction? Or would one direction be climb & the other conventional?
Re: small tee nuts
Much experience w/ those. Sherline makes square T-nuts w/ 10-32 holes. They have a short neck like your V 2.0.
They also make an inch tall one for use when there's room.
The short ones strip out after a while, the tall ones pull the 'T' off the bottom.
I bought some rectangular T-nuts, but they weren't hard enough & not heat treated.
First, I switched to 10-32 studs & nuts, instead of headed screws, to decrease stress on the few threads, which helped longevity of the nuts.
Second, I used "Cherry Red" to case harden the rectangular ones & replacements I made.
Third, I redesign several different T-nuts w/ different 'neck' lengths for attaching specific items down to the carriage T-slots.
Not having a compound carriage, the Sherline has a 2 T-slot table as the top surface of the cross slide.
The tool post mounts on it, the knurler mounts on it, & the parting tool I made does as well. I designed both to mount so they work from behind the spindle center.
Turning the parting blade upside down creates downward force on the spindle; these little lathes are more rigid in that direction.
Helps w/ knurling, even though it's a scissor style.
If you know what length studs you have use for, I bought a variety of long set screws to use as studs, be happy to send some your way. In several sizes, it was cheapest to buy a box, so I have plenty to share.
Make nice studs because they haveca hex in one end. Don't recall if I have any 12-xx, but lots of 10-xx & ¼-xx.
If you mount your unimat to a piece of plate, see if you can scavenge a sink cutout from a local granite countertop installer. They usually throw them away. Combined w/ steel on top & some 6061 on the bottom, the resulting sandwich makes a rigid & dense base for little lathes & mills.
Adding the density of the stone makes a surprising difference in vibration dampening.
Thanks, as always.
Regards,
George
👍👍👍👍
love all these.
Mr Pete we need you to make a vise for are new mill table I have a few days on table thanks keeps me busy
👍👍
Someone gave me vise. I will show it in a future video.
Thanks for the video. I am trying to design a horizontal milling table for my unimat. Whats the story on the werndle carbine?
@16:56 "these insignificant little pieces" I disagree. If those T-nuts fail, the table starts moving, scrapping the work and maybe the entire machine. Yes these vital parts are small but they took an appropriately long amount of time to create correctly after the shortcut experiment and you have every right to feel proud of that time investment. Whenever I find myself thinking that I'm working on something insignificant, I'm likely to be a bit sloppy in my execution. Not a good attitude to ever bring into the shop. Once I ask myself what would happen if that part failed, I get my mind right again and can safely continue. (Yes, I talk to myself out there and occasionally argue with myself.)
Diagonal. Can the table be mounted diagonally and supply four more positions?
Sure
Came to the comments to say the same thing, if the holes are equidistant you would get at least 2 cutting directions at 45', don't know if it would fit pointing toward the cross slide wheel, but if it does there's the other 2 positions.
If you were so inclined, and if the holes fitted between the T slots right, you could bore holes to give 60' and 30' as well.
Yes we are happy happy happy
Mr. Pete, as you test the milling table, would you keep in mind this question? would it be more reasonable to assemble to Unimat as a mill, or to keep it assembled as a lathe but adding a milling attachment? I have used it as a mill but it does not behave rigid enough. Drilling is ok, facing with an endmill is not. It does not help that I do not have a collet for an endmill. If first things first, I am still trying to figure the very first one I need, ha!
Time will tell. I have not used it as a mill yet. I am very doubtful that the milling head is very capable. I expect it to chatter like a tuning fork.
I used to use my SL in mill configuration all the time, and even made a 3/8" endmill holder for it. You can't hog metal like crazy, but it was rigid enough for many years of use. Light cuts help, but I think the mass of the cutter and holder actually helped with the vibration. The holder was made on the unimat from a Acura axle stub (cut to a smaller size, of course!)
Morning Lyle
What kind of camera are you using to film your
How has Starrett not adopted you Sir?
Wish they would
🖖
An early video today Mr Pete !!
Gambling- I can't think of a bigger waste of time and money, but there are suckers born every minute!
I think everyone in Illinois, except me plays the slot machines, and the stupid Illinois lotto.
Am anxious to see what u make with the mill, I've seen a few unimat videos but nothing really involving the mill part....
Thank you so much for making these videos. I liked your point toward the end, the time involved in making this, sure, you could just go buy it and be done. But by making it, you developed the skills. And I respect your time and teaching ability, I didn't get to go to shop class, now I get to go learn a little at a time from a master. Thank you.
Thank you for coming to my classroom