Marvel Draw cut Saw NO 2
Вставка
- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Here is my power hacksaw I saved from the scraper, it is a flat belt driven draw cut type saw, made by the Arnstrong Blum MFG CO of Chicago IL, It is a model No 2. From around 1908 to 1920 in that area. These are nice saws they make a very strait cut unlike a band saw that can waver and leave a sloped end that needs to be machined. They are still made today, This is the flat belt driven model with internal clutch. Will be used on my line shaft later. And it is saved from the torch man to live again. Phil
I just "inherited" one of these that was in an old barn on the property that I bought. I'd been looking around for information on it and this is the first I've found. The one I have is in almost perfect working order although the drive configuration is a little different. Thanks for video!
Excellent save of a beautiful saw. I also saved one from the desert and it has the four steel wheels somenoe made for them and steers. Mine is with silent chain gear drive in oil. These are still a very usable shop tool.
VAPEUR
My grandfather was a Blum who started the company with the Armstrongs. I would love to buy one of the vintage saws.
Christine Strack Very nice, they built a good saw made to last.
Yes it is a Flather lathe and I do use it, still set up for screw cutting so when turning parts I travel manually. This lathe has little use and was put away in storage for most of its life. Would like to set up some day back to line shaft with clutch and reverser. Like your site hope to see your museum someday in my travels.. Thanks. Phil
Thank You for your opinion, we all have them. Every machine has its good and bad points depending on use and maintenance. Glad you enjoyed the video, hope to here from you again, check out my other stuff. Phil
Fun video. Like the shaper the power hacksaw is a design superseded by a continuous cutting design, the bandsaw. It seems like the battle between the two goes way back to wood cutting two hundred years ago. Any toothed blade will run out if dulled on one side or not running true, the argument that a band will run out is only true for those who can't or won't keep their guides adjusted. True, the power hack doesn't need guides. But the advantage of continuous cut way outweigh disadvantages.
Yes you can adjust the stroke by sliding the lower arm on the rear cam, there is an adjusting nut for that. And the down pressure can be adjusted when I install the tension rod that is on the floor. It goes from the rear cam to the front with a big spring and tension knob. Thanks. Phil
Have not had it apart was working when got the saw. There is an oil hole on the pulley hub that could have some good penetrating oil put down it to help free up. Not much to it just slides on the shaft to the spring hub. The year of my lathe is May 5 1885. Phil
@VAPEUR36001 They are nice saws slower than a band saw but will make a strait cut unlike a band saw that can waver. This one will some day be hooked back to a line shaft I am setting up. Thanks.
Hi, iknow they were made in the flat belt and gear drive models, I did find a online manual for mine that covers both types of drive and operation. You can search around online and find it or I may be abel to email it to you. Phil
Excellent Video...Very Cool saw...Two questions, Does it have a way of adjusting the Down Pressure and can you adjust the length of the blade stroke? Seams like only about 6 inches of teeth are being used and would get dull rather quickly?
No I have not it was still working when I got the saw, I will look at mine again, it is not a real complicated clutch. I think just the one hub slides into the other, some penetrating oil and light taping may free it up. But I am sure you have dellt with things like this before. Phil
I have the exact same saw and one extra blade in the original packaging. Do you know of any source for replacement blades. I cut a couple of 2" Schedule 40, 304 Stainless Steel pipes the other day. Tough old boy. Went through slow but steady, providing a straight cut.
The blades come up on Ebay now and then try searching. Thanks
Very cool.............I have a question on that part on the floor for you if you have the time I just got one of those machines I like to restore .....!
Sure ask away, glad to help if I can.
What did you need to know or did you figure it out. Phil
And the stroke is in relation to what you are cutting, a shorter stroke is needed for wider pieces of metal, otherwise the blade holder arm would hit the work.
Nice, I have a no1, but it goes too fast, needs to be at the speed you are going. Any faster than what you are running and the blade will start hopping or it does on mine anyway
Clarke E This motor I am using has a reduction gearbox, but you could make your own using a jack shaft and sized pulleys to slow it down. It normally should be run from a line shaft to get correct speed. Thanks for the comment. Phil
Mine also doesn't have the large flat wheel that's on your drive, it's about half your diameter so I wonder if mine is original or not. is that a 12 "wheel?
Hay phil, have u ever had that clutch assemby apart ? Mine seens to be stuck engaged.
I just received one donated to my museum, looks pretty basic n cool. My question is about t your lathe in the background, is that flather and sons ? Vintage ? We just installed one kn the museum shop, check out my channell and see.. Thank you
Mine also doesn't have the large flat wheel that's on your drive, it's about half your diameter so I wonder if mine is original or not. is that a 12 "wheel?