Car owner here. A little back story on this one. As Ivan mentioned in the first video, this car belonged to my neighbor. It had not been on the road in over 3 years. She approached me to try to get it running and inspected. After getting it fired up I noticed paperwork where they attempted to inspect the car back in 2017. It had a tremendous number of trouble codes. The neighbor decided it wasn't worth the time and trouble and offered me the car. While not an expert, I'm a DIY mechanic. Having learned from Ivan (and Eric O) that there would be a common theme to all of the trouble codes, I pulled a wiring diagram and went to work. I found an engine wiring connector in the back of the engine (a real pisser to get to), and when I opened the connector there was a large amount of corrosion. I did my best to clean it up given the tight space I was working. After plugging it back in, all of those trouble codes went away and the car ran great. At least for a little while. After trying to get it inspected, it lost communication at the DLC. Dash lights would not work etc. Every connector I unplugged had green puss. The car needed a new harness, but it wouldn't be cost effective even if you could find one. After the most frustrating experience working on a car, I finally made the decision to call in an expert. Living in Delaware, I made the 3 hour trip to State College to see Ivan. I towed the Kia on a U-haul trailer over the mountains of PA. Needless to say, Ivan's attention to detail and problem solving skills made the trip 100% worthwhile. Fast forward to today. I gave the car to a family member who absolutely loves it. I did have to replace the TPS pigtail that was causing problems, but so far so good. The truck is rust free and very heavy duty underneath. They don't build KIAs like this anymore. PHAD saves another one. Rob
302VetteLife . I'm a DYI mechanic here also. I've been working on my own stuff for many years. With all of these electronic gee hawws. I am a subscriber to Ivan. Mr. O and others. I do own a scanner and I'm glad I purchased it. I was buying those cheaper scanners and finally decided to bought a better scanner. When I'm stumped. I usually find stuff on Ivan or Mr. O channel. As the saying goes " if I can do it, So can you" . Very True indeed. For over 30 years plus. I've never taken my vehicles to the shop. I'm a true shade tree mechanic. I also work on family vehicles. As usual, they always ask. What is it? How long to fix ? and how much.? The problems I've ran into is. Having the time to trouble shoot. I worked on a 2017 f150. Stalling and fuel pump would just die? After a parts cannon got fired. Traced it to a major wiring problem. Again living way out in the boonies. No internet. Took me 3 days of driving back and forth. Told my best friend. Needs a new harness. So he towed it to a Ford Dealership. They pulled the bed. Broke several connectors in the process. Had to raise the cab. The harness lives right by the drivers side front. They had to remove covers. They did not replace the harness. The Ford Tech installed a jumper wire and did not properly seat the wire or attempt to lay it in the harness. A green jumper wire ran from the drivers side all the way across the front engine compartment. Not even tied down or covered. They charged him for the temp fix. He drove it. On his way home from a 800 mile trip. The truck stalled again on the major freeway. He had to wiggle the wire to restart his truck. Several times on the way home. His wife is disable too. He got feed up with the repair. Sold the F150 back to Ford dealership and bought a newer truck.
@@2nickles647 Those electrical issues can be real tough ones. I was using a small code reader forever before I went to a $150 scan tool that will read data. It made a huge difference for me in my repairs. Now I need one with bi-directional controls and a scope LOL . It never ends. Thanks to UA-cam and people like Ivan and Eric and Keith etc, they make some of the most complex things easier to figure out.
Ivan is a genius, no question. Your Kia has the same interior tan color scheme as my 2004 Sequoia. I live about an hour away from Ivan so I am almost looking forward for something going wrong with one of my cars that I can't figure out just so I can meet him. Actually my 97 Celica has a cooling fan that stays on even when engine cold, I may get him to diagnose but I only paid $1200 for the car and I know expert diagnosis is not cheap so may live with it!
When you mentioned surging idle, I was expecting the old Toyota or Ford old idle surge when low on coolant. Being an older vehicle, but that was a quick surge, not the old school upppppppp then downnnnn. Great work as always and NPR!
A good outcome Ivan. Just goes to show Eric is correct, NEW does not always mean good. It does mean Never Ever Worked! The original OEM one was clearly better than the new one. I can.t recall if the new one was OEM or not. I am going with Not.
Great diagnosis and fix Ivan! Take away from this is that comms and PID's for older vehicles are limited and that knowledge on how things work and taking a logical approach will get results. I'm quite sure if you put back most of the old components that they'll most likely still function. Thanks for walking us through. Cheers!
Ivan, you just proved my point! Always stick with OEM!! I've been telling people to stay with oem! You reversed parts cannon! That's neat trick! Ha! I have a slight surging idle on my ex wife's car, but i will check the tps and see what the maf is reporting and the position of the tps. I'm sure i got some autozone or napa crap in there. I need oem!! Lol. Do a widdle test too. That's cool feedback from Rob on the video and his comment! It shows your character and dedication to attention to detail. That's why i enjoy watching you do mind blowing cool case studies and your diagnosis thinking! Great job, Ivan!
The owner brought it to the right place. We don’t have those inspections here in Michigan anymore, lots of cars running like crap for no good reason! Although you don’t see a lot of cars older than ten years because they rust to dust by then!!
Great job Ivan! In my long career of electronics, I have found about 95% of malfunctions are mechanical. Most were corrosion, poor contacts, cracked solder joints, or stressed broken wires. The 5% electrical failure usually was caused by the mechanical side shorting, or over current the circuits to the point of failure. The Art of Diagnosing is determining whether its the Cause or the Effect.
Lololol I've found that 95% are electrical, but I would have called corrosion in connectors electrical. You are taking it to the component level. Lolol
Those aftermarket parts stores are not worth the trouble, seems like their sensors hardly ever work. Probably better off getting used ones from the salvage yard if you can't afford new !!
Yes! I'm addicted to these diag. videos. I have a strange one at work right now. Chevy Express 6.0L but runs on CNG. Bank one -30% long term and bank two 30%. B1S1 0.9mv B2S1 0.0mv. Injector duty cycle bank one 5.1msec and bank two 16msec.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Good question, I think there dummy proof but no telling here 😂. I'll check tomorrow, I left for the day. But I do know they were replaced and the cats cause they burned up (original issue but not sure what's causing it). And the bus is starting to smell again like there burning up again. The parts cannon was fired lol. Cause the wiring harness has been replaced, fusebox, and fuel injectors.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Ok. So I rechecked wiring harness, fuse box pins, ECM pins, O2s are right, we even had our programmer to reload and check ECM programming. No change yet but I was thinking, bank 1 seems to be showing rich and bank 2 lean. Since its CNG, what if the fuel pressure is low? Fuel comes in on that rich bank 1 and should split evenly, but what if pressure is low and starving that other bank? I'm gonna try to check pressure now.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I think your right about not being fuel. It was running the same and I wanted to get O2 numbers at different RPM but upstream or downstream were stuck (0.9 B1S1 0.0 B2S1). Downstream was stuck also (1.0 B2S2 0.0 B1S2) So I revved it pretty high and and it seemed to fix itself and idle fine. Injector duty cycle #1 & #2 are both 4.5msec.
11:50 I was wondering if that vacuum line to the trans was still not doing anything (effectively seeing WOT), but then you noticed you had the selector in "2" not "D".
I had the same type of problem on a Buick century one time, turned out someone tried removing the connector on the throttle position sensor and had broke the plug in on it. After it was fixed it ran fine where as before it would surge and shift hard when you first took off. Crazy how much difference it made with a bad connection.
I have a 2010 Kia forte when I start it will idle at about 1500rpm. When I put it into gear it will kick down to 1000. It runs lower on reverse than drive but highest in Park. Sometimes when I'm driving it it will have a slight surge. not every time just once in awhile and it's just maybe about 500 RPMs up and then back down over and over again. Just enough to notice it's happening. There are other times when I start the car that it actually feels like it wants to stall and if I press on the gas while it's still in park when it's feeling like it wants to stall after starting it that will usually fix the issue. It'll just go back to being at the high RPM again. One time while driving it it went up to 3&4 rpm wouldn't come out of that I just got it around the block back home and parked it thinking it was done for I waited a few minutes restarted it and it was back to its normal and driveable again. I feel like nobody can tell me what's wrong with it but clearly something is
Hello Ivan. I'm trying to locate the EGR valve on my '98 Sportage (failed smog NOx), but it's not on the lower front of the intake manifold like shown on this '97 at 1:51 of the video. Oddly enough, it looks like that area on the '98 manifold has been sealed up. After looking through my factory repair manual, I came across a couple of images that appear to show that the EGR valve was moved to the lower back area of the intake manifold close to the firewall. It's just a random (not a photo) image and doesn't have it labeled as the EGR, but it definitely looks like it. My manual references the EGR a couple times but never actually says anything about where it's located. I'm just wondering if you had any information to confirm that this is the location on the '98 because I can't actually see that area without taking a bunch of parts off the vehicle. Sorry for the long comment, just hoping for some help before I start dismantling this thing only to find it's not in that location.
I have a 4x4 sportage in 2001, please tell me the order and color of the ISC socket cabble, because I lost track and all three were cut off at the socket head, please reply 🙏🏻🙏🏻 thank you..
When i worked for kia they had problems in TPS sensors that would not set a code yet cause a rolling idle. Also carbon build up in the throttle plates.
KIA -Killed In Action- Keeping It Alive Never deem parts as bad until confirmed they are Another step by step approach repair saves another from the boneyard The owner mentioned Pa Mountains. Lucky he didn`t come up via route 125 , white knuckles and clenched cheeks style all the way with that road Haha
Customer should have a really good car now.Even if customer had replaced evrything with OEM parts this would not have rectified the problems.Just shows that even if your first investigation is not conclusive another look at suspect wiring/parts can pay off. 2 good video's on this Kia Thank you
My VW had a intermittent compressor malfunction - not cycling. It took 4 years to finally find the wire that had the incomplete break in it. what a hassle.
Hola, tengo una Kia Sportage igual a esta incluso el color, es del año 1995, 2.0 mazda, motor a gasolina, con 134.000 km originales. Y tengo problema con el ralentí, el cableado es el original y la tps es bosch made in Germany pero la idle es distinta, es de cortina, y esta puesta al frente. La camioneta se aceleraba sola al ir conduciendo y subia a unas 2000 rpm. Me bajaba la golpeaba con un martillo y se acomodaba a sus 800 rpm original porque estaba sucia. Compré una nueva y ahora mientras conduzco en ciudad las rpm a veces suben y bajan un poco. Yo solo desenchufe la vieja idle y conecte la nueva. Aquí nadie sabe repararla. Estoy en Argentina. Algun consejo? Será que hay que reiniciar algo en la computadora? Será el tps? Lmpiar el conector de la tps con un limpia contacto servirá? Muchas gracias. Felicitaciones y cordiales saludos!
Interesting that all that was wrong was a buncha bad connections. We have all this wonderful technology in this world but still have so many connector issues. I repair appliances and instead of making better and beafier connectors there are almost microscopic now go figure. Just had to order a lady a control because the1/4 terminal they used is in a plastic housing and for some reason it doesnt make good enough contact and causes wire to burn off control. Never used to use plastic around the connector and seen a lot less issues. Still trying to figure out how to move electrons with no wires maybe someday i suppose lol.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics More electrical so likely more concerns. Hopefully they understand once internal cumbustion exits, full focus will be on electric and step up their quality builds. I wonder if Tesla has done crash testing between two cars to see if the batteries start on fire when T boned or similar.
Car owner here. A little back story on this one. As Ivan mentioned in the first video, this car belonged to my neighbor. It had not been on the road in over 3 years. She approached me to try to get it running and inspected. After getting it fired up I noticed paperwork where they attempted to inspect the car back in 2017. It had a tremendous number of trouble codes. The neighbor decided it wasn't worth the time and trouble and offered me the car. While not an expert, I'm a DIY mechanic. Having learned from Ivan (and Eric O) that there would be a common theme to all of the trouble codes, I pulled a wiring diagram and went to work. I found an engine wiring connector in the back of the engine (a real pisser to get to), and when I opened the connector there was a large amount of corrosion. I did my best to clean it up given the tight space I was working. After plugging it back in, all of those trouble codes went away and the car ran great. At least for a little while. After trying to get it inspected, it lost communication at the DLC. Dash lights would not work etc. Every connector I unplugged had green puss. The car needed a new harness, but it wouldn't be cost effective even if you could find one. After the most frustrating experience working on a car, I finally made the decision to call in an expert. Living in Delaware, I made the 3 hour trip to State College to see Ivan. I towed the Kia on a U-haul trailer over the mountains of PA. Needless to say, Ivan's attention to detail and problem solving skills made the trip 100% worthwhile. Fast forward to today. I gave the car to a family member who absolutely loves it. I did have to replace the TPS pigtail that was causing problems, but so far so good. The truck is rust free and very heavy duty underneath. They don't build KIAs like this anymore. PHAD saves another one. Rob
Thank you for the feedback, Rob! Glad that I could help you save a cool little truck from the crusher 😁
302VetteLife . I'm a DYI mechanic here also. I've been working on my own stuff for many years. With all of these electronic gee hawws. I am a subscriber to Ivan. Mr. O and others.
I do own a scanner and I'm glad I purchased it. I was buying those cheaper scanners and finally decided to bought a better scanner.
When I'm stumped. I usually find stuff on Ivan or Mr. O channel.
As the saying goes " if I can do it, So can you" . Very True indeed. For over 30 years plus. I've never taken my vehicles to the shop. I'm a true shade tree mechanic. I also work on family vehicles. As usual, they always ask.
What is it?
How long to fix ?
and how much.?
The problems I've ran into is. Having the time to trouble shoot.
I worked on a 2017 f150. Stalling and fuel pump would just die?
After a parts cannon got fired.
Traced it to a major wiring problem.
Again living way out in the boonies. No internet. Took me 3 days of driving back and forth.
Told my best friend. Needs a new harness. So he towed it to a Ford Dealership. They pulled the bed. Broke several connectors in the process. Had to raise the cab.
The harness lives right by the drivers side front. They had to remove covers. They did not replace the harness. The Ford Tech installed a jumper wire and did not properly seat the wire or attempt to lay it in the harness. A green jumper wire ran from the drivers side all the way across the front engine compartment. Not even tied down or covered. They charged him for the temp fix. He drove it. On his way home from a 800 mile trip. The truck stalled again on the major freeway. He had to wiggle the wire to restart his truck. Several times on the way home. His wife is disable too.
He got feed up with the repair. Sold the F150 back to Ford dealership and bought a newer truck.
@@2nickles647 Those electrical issues can be real tough ones. I was using a small code reader forever before I went to a $150 scan tool that will read data. It made a huge difference for me in my repairs. Now I need one with bi-directional controls and a scope LOL . It never ends. Thanks to UA-cam and people like Ivan and Eric and Keith etc, they make some of the most complex things easier to figure out.
Ivan is a genius, no question. Your Kia has the same interior tan color scheme as my 2004 Sequoia. I live about an hour away from Ivan so I am almost looking forward for something going wrong with one of my cars that I can't figure out just so I can meet him. Actually my 97 Celica has a cooling fan that stays on even when engine cold, I may get him to diagnose but I only paid $1200 for the car and I know expert diagnosis is not cheap so may live with it!
Thanks for the back story!
“That chineese air flow meter is reporting accurately “. Lol
As someone who certifies test equipment for a living nowadays, I found that amusing as well.
Unshooting the parts canon fixed it. Thanks for bringing us along, Ivan!
A happy customer.
You helped that guy to keep his 23+ year old car on the road.
Ivan you are a kind if good Samaritan!
When you mentioned surging idle, I was expecting the old Toyota or Ford old idle surge when low on coolant. Being an older vehicle, but that was a quick surge, not the old school upppppppp then downnnnn. Great work as always and NPR!
A good outcome Ivan. Just goes to show Eric is correct, NEW does not always mean good. It does mean Never Ever Worked! The original OEM one was clearly better than the new one. I can.t recall if the new one was OEM or not. I am going with Not.
Great diagnosis and fix Ivan! Take away from this is that comms and PID's for older vehicles are limited and that knowledge on how things work and taking a logical approach will get results. I'm quite sure if you put back most of the old components that they'll most likely still function. Thanks for walking us through. Cheers!
Nice to see and older vehicle run so well! Good work!
Ivan, you just proved my point! Always stick with OEM!! I've been telling people to stay with oem! You reversed parts cannon! That's neat trick! Ha! I have a slight surging idle on my ex wife's car, but i will check the tps and see what the maf is reporting and the position of the tps. I'm sure i got some autozone or napa crap in there. I need oem!! Lol. Do a widdle test too. That's cool feedback from Rob on the video and his comment! It shows your character and dedication to attention to detail. That's why i enjoy watching you do mind blowing cool case studies and your diagnosis thinking! Great job, Ivan!
Thank you for your support always Josh! 🙂
I like "get the little truck run 100% correct!" Great job Ivan! Thanks for Sharing!
Sometimes new don't always mean better🤣🤣🤣. New cheap parts can send you through a tailspin, but you can't fool the experts! Great job Ivan!
The owner brought it to the right place. We don’t have those inspections here in Michigan anymore, lots of cars running like crap for no good reason! Although you don’t see a lot of cars older than ten years because they rust to dust by then!!
Those were neat body on frame little trucks. It was Kia before it became part of Hyundai and if I remember correctly, it had a Mazda engine in it.
That reminds me. I used to have a Mazda B2500 pickup with a Mitsubishi engine in it. Great truck but the engine was garbage.
Huge frame under it. Big truck type front axle. Hard to believe the 2.0 moves it.
Fantastic . Basic common sense diagnosis. Loved those little Kias but where I live the rear frames just rot away.
Great job Ivan and the best part NPR !! Awesome !
Great job Ivan! In my long career of electronics, I have found about 95% of malfunctions are mechanical. Most were corrosion, poor contacts, cracked solder joints, or stressed broken wires. The 5% electrical failure usually was caused by the mechanical side shorting, or over current the circuits to the point of failure. The Art of Diagnosing is determining whether its the Cause or the Effect.
Lololol I've found that 95% are electrical, but I would have called corrosion in connectors electrical. You are taking it to the component level. Lolol
Yet another lesson in not firing the parts canon, especially when the canon is loaded with unbranded eBay crap.
I always learn something from Ivan . Thanks
Yea! It Passed. Awesome Ivan!
Great video, new parts does not always mean a better part!
Never knew a screwed TPS could cause an idle like this, Thanks a bunch.
Good for you for not rushing to the throttle stop.
Would have been interesting to see a reverse parts cannon. Install all the old parts and see what was unnecessary 🙂
Those aftermarket parts stores are not worth the trouble, seems like their sensors hardly ever work. Probably better off getting used ones from the salvage yard if you can't afford new !!
Great follow up video, oem it's always better. Good troubleshooting skills, truck is back in the road. Take care Thanks 😊
Ivan,
Great video set and fix - thank you!
Paul (in MA)
Thanks Paul!
Nice one Ivan👍 Gotta love the customers with self inflicted cheap parts cannon/tinkering issues🤣🇦🇺
Great content Ivan, you saved another.
Can you believe there was a Kia Sportage backed by Kia that raced at Baja and Dakar back in the 90s🤯 so cool
All stock, of course.
Love the fix. Sometimes old school methods work best.
Yes! I'm addicted to these diag. videos. I have a strange one at work right now. Chevy Express 6.0L but runs on CNG. Bank one -30% long term and bank two 30%. B1S1 0.9mv B2S1 0.0mv. Injector duty cycle bank one 5.1msec and bank two 16msec.
Are the O2 sensors reversed?? Take a look at the downstreams!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Good question, I think there dummy proof but no telling here 😂. I'll check tomorrow, I left for the day. But I do know they were replaced and the cats cause they burned up (original issue but not sure what's causing it). And the bus is starting to smell again like there burning up again. The parts cannon was fired lol. Cause the wiring harness has been replaced, fusebox, and fuel injectors.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Ok. So I rechecked wiring harness, fuse box pins, ECM pins, O2s are right, we even had our programmer to reload and check ECM programming. No change yet but I was thinking, bank 1 seems to be showing rich and bank 2 lean. Since its CNG, what if the fuel pressure is low? Fuel comes in on that rich bank 1 and should split evenly, but what if pressure is low and starving that other bank? I'm gonna try to check pressure now.
@@bobbydelamar606 definitely not fuel pressure... But CNG is a different beast. Did you check all 4 O2 on scan data? Downstreams agree with upstream?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I think your right about not being fuel. It was running the same and I wanted to get O2 numbers at different RPM but upstream or downstream were stuck (0.9 B1S1 0.0 B2S1). Downstream was stuck also (1.0 B2S2 0.0 B1S2) So I revved it pretty high and and it seemed to fix itself and idle fine. Injector duty cycle #1 & #2 are both 4.5msec.
11:50 I was wondering if that vacuum line to the trans was still not doing anything (effectively seeing WOT), but then you noticed you had the selector in "2" not "D".
OEM, the most important lesson here…..
great video . that slow refresh rate would make many people throw in the towel lol
Thanks for part 2. I'm sure customer is very happy.
Yup especially since it was a NPR fix 😁👌
Very happy!
I had the same type of problem on a Buick century one time, turned out someone tried removing the connector on the throttle position sensor and had broke the plug in on it. After it was fixed it ran fine where as before it would surge and shift hard when you first took off. Crazy how much difference it made with a bad connection.
Good vid man. An actual informative content.
I have a 2010 Kia forte when I start it will idle at about 1500rpm. When I put it into gear it will kick down to 1000. It runs lower on reverse than drive but highest in Park. Sometimes when I'm driving it it will have a slight surge. not every time just once in awhile and it's just maybe about 500 RPMs up and then back down over and over again. Just enough to notice it's happening. There are other times when I start the car that it actually feels like it wants to stall and if I press on the gas while it's still in park when it's feeling like it wants to stall after starting it that will usually fix the issue. It'll just go back to being at the high RPM again. One time while driving it it went up to 3&4 rpm wouldn't come out of that I just got it around the block back home and parked it thinking it was done for I waited a few minutes restarted it and it was back to its normal and driveable again. I feel like nobody can tell me what's wrong with it but clearly something is
Hello Ivan. I'm trying to locate the EGR valve on my '98 Sportage (failed smog NOx), but it's not on the lower front of the intake manifold like shown on this '97 at 1:51 of the video. Oddly enough, it looks like that area on the '98 manifold has been sealed up. After looking through my factory repair manual, I came across a couple of images that appear to show that the EGR valve was moved to the lower back area of the intake manifold close to the firewall. It's just a random (not a photo) image and doesn't have it labeled as the EGR, but it definitely looks like it. My manual references the EGR a couple times but never actually says anything about where it's located. I'm just wondering if you had any information to confirm that this is the location on the '98 because I can't actually see that area without taking a bunch of parts off the vehicle. Sorry for the long comment, just hoping for some help before I start dismantling this thing only to find it's not in that location.
Thank you Ivan for this video. Do you have plans to migrate to Pico 7 in the near future?
I'm in no rush until they work out the bugs lol
great job Ivan I wish you were closer
Sweet diag. Thanks Ivan!
Is there anything you cant do??? Lol! Awesome Ivan!
This one demanded some patience, and the result was rewarding 😉
Hang on to those remaining oem parts.
Nice work Ivan 👍🏼
The vehicle emissions test has been disbanded in Ontario Canada since April 2019 .
Always a great job
Nice job Ivan
Fundamentals for the win!
The manufacturer doesn't give us a procedure, so we'll use our knowledge instead.
I have a 4x4 sportage in 2001, please tell me the order and color of the ISC socket cabble, because I lost track and all three were cut off at the socket head, please reply 🙏🏻🙏🏻 thank you..
That’s a great example of how the parts cannon makes things worse! Great video.
what is that sign reflecting on the scanner around the 7:38 mark, it seems to be in Russian wondering if anyone knew...
When i worked for kia they had problems in TPS sensors that would not set a code yet cause a rolling idle. Also carbon build up in the throttle plates.
Also cracks in air boots.
KIA -Killed In Action- Keeping It Alive
Never deem parts as bad until confirmed they are
Another step by step approach repair saves another from the boneyard
The owner mentioned Pa Mountains. Lucky he didn`t come up via route 125 , white knuckles and clenched cheeks style all the way with that road Haha
Customer should have a really good car now.Even if customer had replaced evrything with OEM parts this would not have rectified the problems.Just shows that even if your first investigation is not conclusive another look at suspect wiring/parts can pay off. 2 good video's on this Kia Thank you
Love the content!!!
My VW had a intermittent compressor malfunction - not cycling. It took 4 years to finally find the wire that had the incomplete break in it. what a hassle.
On my 96 kia Sportage 2.0, 4x2 gasoline.. where is the Campshaft position sensor, and the Cranshaft position sentor locations, please.. Thanx. JC
Hola, tengo una Kia Sportage igual a esta incluso el color, es del año 1995, 2.0 mazda, motor a gasolina, con 134.000 km originales. Y tengo problema con el ralentí, el cableado es el original y la tps es bosch made in Germany pero la idle es distinta, es de cortina, y esta puesta al frente. La camioneta se aceleraba sola al ir conduciendo y subia a unas 2000 rpm. Me bajaba la golpeaba con un martillo y se acomodaba a sus 800 rpm original porque estaba sucia. Compré una nueva y ahora mientras conduzco en ciudad las rpm a veces suben y bajan un poco. Yo solo desenchufe la vieja idle y conecte la nueva. Aquí nadie sabe repararla. Estoy en Argentina. Algun consejo? Será que hay que reiniciar algo en la computadora? Será el tps? Lmpiar el conector de la tps con un limpia contacto servirá? Muchas gracias. Felicitaciones y cordiales saludos!
Great video.
Interesting that all that was wrong was a buncha bad connections. We have all this wonderful technology in this world but still have so many connector issues. I repair appliances and instead of making better and beafier connectors there are almost microscopic now go figure. Just had to order a lady a control because the1/4 terminal they used is in a plastic housing and for some reason it doesnt make good enough contact and causes wire to burn off control. Never used to use plastic around the connector and seen a lot less issues. Still trying to figure out how to move electrons with no wires maybe someday i suppose lol.
What is the % value of the standard kia sportage1 tps sensor
Good job
That is one lucky guy. Do some maintenance and it will probably give him 50 to 100k miles easily.
Cool! 👍
What was the manufacturers specific code p1505? Was that a idle issue from all data information I missed something there somewhere.
Idle speed control actuator signal low
It was the idle speed circuit from when he had it unplugged.
OK that makes sense thanks.
What is the update on the new garage ?
What will the neighbor say now that had it ?
👍👍
Always found the pedal configuration awkward. There is a footrest by the Gas pedal and you always press on that instead of the gas.
Would be cool if it was a stick shift
Boom!!
Молодец иван
So questionable parts and pin fitment, great job
cool
Pine Auto Hollow Diagnostics.
Give her the beans
💪
Saving this car from the crusher vs buying a stupid new Tesla is way better for the environment and the customer’s wallet. 👍🏻
haha I want to see a Tesla last 25 years in the Northeast, and the repair costs along the way :)
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics More electrical so likely more concerns. Hopefully they understand once internal cumbustion exits, full focus will be on electric and step up their quality builds. I wonder if Tesla has done crash testing between two cars to see if the batteries start on fire when T boned or similar.
I would have cleaned the throttleplate as well.
I had done that previously. It wasn't terrible, but it got cleaned up.
You know, Ivan... being of Russian heritage and having a Trump poster in your garage your gonna get Trump in trouble! HaHa
🤣 Ironic that he wasn't the one colluding with Russia lol!
Npr no parts reqired
Always use OEM electric parts and never use eBay special
I saw that flag. :D
I guess even the older port injected Korean cars sound like a garbage truck.
Like The Trump Flag in the reflection of the Verus
Several of us do. BTW, how is the economy doing at this time? (LOL)
#LGBFJB