Lisle makes a bit for an air hammer for driving out old anchor pins and the bushings and will drive in and automatically align the new bushing. i saw one of the old techs use one my first day turning wrenches and it was the first thing that i bought off of the tool truck and i still have it to this day. A brake spring spreader makes putting in the anchor springs a breeze.
Jeff get a long screw driver and cut a notch out of it. Use it as a pry bar to buy the red springs on instead of the voice grips. Also take one of your old rollers and weld a handle and flat plate on it to put the new bushings in with.
Brake shoe removal or install: insert pry bar above top roller on s-cam. End of bar should end up on the spindle or spider. Lift shoe and remove roller. Repeat for lower s-cam roller. There will now be enough slack to remove the front single spring by hand while holding the lower shoe up. Allow the lower shoe to fall away from the s-cam, swing it backwards to provide slack to remove the rear springs. Assembly: place upper shoe on rear roller and the front rests on the s-cam without a roller. Hang two rear springs on top shoe. Place lower shoe on rear pivot roller and swing it down and backwards to place the two rear springs into the lower shoe. Swing lower shoe forward towards s-cam. Hang front spring from top shoe and lift lower shoe to attach spring to lower shoe. Use pry bar over s-cam to lift shoes away from s-cam to install each s-cam roller. Note s-cam must be in neutral, slack adjuster backed off, for this to work. Same position you had it in. No tools necessary for springs with this method and no chance of slippage. Hope it makes sense. In the early 90's there were over sized studs available for those hubs, I used them. Can't remember mfg though. Also use your tire bar to walk the tires on or OFF the hub, save the back.
honestly, too much screwin around for me. just take a cheap 24" blade screwdriver, cut a notch in the tip that fits the anchor springs. remove by putting the screwdriver in the lower spring hook and give it a bump with the palm of your hand, repeat for other spring, lift the shoe off the anchor and forward to pop it off the cam and you're off. install by putting the shoes on the cam with main spring and rollers installed first, bump the shoe to get it on the anchor pins, install the anchor springs by putting the top hook in, screwdriver in the bottom hook and give it another bump and she's in. i'm with you on the wheels. i make sure to only jack the truck up about so there's about an inch and a bit under the tires and walk them off with the old 50" pry bar.
Read this guys explanation and tell me what you think about his method azkmdsm5 hours ago (edited) Brake shoe removal or install: insert pry bar above top roller on s-cam. End of bar should end up on the spindle or spider. Lift shoe and remove roller. Repeat for lower s-cam roller. There will now be enough slack to remove the front single spring by hand while holding the lower shoe up. Allow the lower shoe to fall away from the s-cam, swing it backwards to provide slack to remove the rear springs. Assembly: place upper shoe on rear roller and the front rests on the s-cam without a roller. Hang two rear springs on top shoe. Place lower shoe on rear pivot roller and swing it down and backwards to place the two rear springs into the lower shoe. Swing lower shoe forward towards s-cam. Hang front spring from top shoe and lift lower shoe to attach spring to lower shoe. Use pry bar over s-cam to lift shoes away from s-cam to install each s-cam roller. Note s-cam must be in neutral, slack adjuster backed off, for this to work. Same position you had it in. No tools necessary for springs with this method and no chance of slippage. Hope it makes sense. In the early 90's there were over sized studs available for those hubs, I used them. Can't remember mfg though. Also use your tire bar to walk the tires on or OFF the hub, save the back.
Jpaydirt Sorry, when you posted your first vid I thought WTH is he doing? But I couldn't think of a clear way to explain it in words. Today when I saw that you were receptive of input, it just came to me. Glad it made sense. Sometimes when you remove the s-cam rollers you'll need to keep lifting to "stretch" the front spring to facilitate toolless removal. There are lots of ways to do it, but I have never found an easier one.
tr0n that's how I originally did it, then the screwdriver slipped and I ate shit. An old guy took pity on me and showed me the pry bar method and I've never looked back. I've never found a situation where it didn't work or presented a chance for injury. I'm one to always seek out better/faster methods and I haven't found one. I worked in a freightshaker stealership and had lots of practice.
I am watching you do brakes on your booster. For the double springs an easy way to do the spring is with a long blade screwdriver. About 3/8 of an inch from the blade end grind a groove on the side. Get behind the anchor pins and reach in . Use the screwdriver to remove the springs by prying them out . To install hook the top of the spring put the screwdriver groove on the bottom push down using your weight and hook them. You might have to tap them for final click. For the installation of the inner mount drums. Put the old brake drum on the floor flange up put your hub you are using flange down put new drum on insert studs and with a piece or 2 inch shaft stand and seat the studs. Easy on back and threads. Like your show . Leonard Johnston. Andrew Alberta
Jeff great job with the diet looking good. When my studs was lose in the hubs i changed the hub. When i did i switched to outboard drums. The other lowboy i had was grease hubs and i could not get parts for it anymore so i cut the axles out and installed new ones. Not as big of job as you might think it is!
Are you sure the rollers went back in the same direction? I do the brake springs the other way. I set the top shoe on. Then hang the bottom shoe vertical by the two side springs and you can rotate it up to the S cam. Then reach through the rollers and clip in the spring by the cam. I use a pry bar with a little notch cut in it to hook the spring.
Sorry, that was confusing. I meant the rollers in the bearing. It seems like you would have to get them back in the cage in the original orientation, or the wear pattern would be all cattywampus.
I don't think you will find it in a dictionary. I remember the first time I encountered an angular contact bearing. I had no idea you could just pop them apart by hand. I spilled the balls out of a $300 bearing before I even knew what happened.
I like the little box sleeper on your yellow truck photo. Looks good! I've been watching the loggers work on their stuff , you look like you REALLY know what your doing. Thanks!
I think yer buddy Maynard was thinking of automotive drum brakes. I have done that many times. You can lay them down, and put the top and bottom springs on and the self adjuster, then pop them into the wheel cylinder. Obviously not truck brakes
Jeff , before you put the brake shoes back on the axle put all the springs on then place the shoes on the axle and then put the rear anchor pins in last lifting each shoe just enough with a bar to fit the pins ,Thank you for the video and Take Care, and please let me know £££££s Thanks JEFF.
A great video jeff as always. congrats on taking the 40 pounds off. I took off 50 pounds 4 years ago and gained 5 pounds back and still holding. I always heard that diets don't work and so true that is . You have to change what you eat and stay with it. Cook your own food and stay away from sugar etc etc.
I always use anti sieze on all the roller and metal to metal surfaces and when installing the springs i use vice grips and a pry bar and put the pry bar against the spindle and hook them up but to each is own i really love your w9 bro!
That's cool that your getting ol Kenney back up and going! Hope to see more viedo of that. There is no way you can assemble them brakes on the ground like that think he was messing with ya lol
I ran across this without running over an one. I'm the old guy in front of you doing 65 on a 75 Mph Highway. You know the one drivers like to tailgate and intimidate. Being I am i West Virginia I carry. I choose the slow lane because I am not in any hurry.I don't drive trucks, the biggest for me was an F8 and tractors D4's. I am retired no accidents in 62 years of driving and 2 tickets. Both in speed traps. Contested both, had to pay one. I put 90,000 miles on a new 79 150 Ford. Put just under 400K on an Izusu Pup with deisel Engine. The engine was great when I got rid of it. The problem was; my dog refused to ride in it because the floor boards had rusted away. I sold it in Jan 2000! You were better looking when you were 40 pounds heavier!
Omg Jeff where is your jack stands and why not use them, we love ya to much to have you working around heavy stuff only held up with a floor jack. Also wouldn’t it be better to use the star pattern when tightening up those hubs and wheels etc.
Inboard mounted Drums..... Kill me now...lol!!!! Not big on Low Boys, do they usually deal in inboards? I have and will always use Vise-Grips on those springs. They have come out with some awesome brake chamber tools, as of late. It's cut my time in half, honestly.
THAT is NOT how you put on quick change brake kits!!!! You just put on the little springs on the pin side and swing them into position. Then, with the s-cam in the exact right position you can install the BIG spring to hold the 2 shoes together. NO pliers needed, just swivel bottom spring holder up and spring will just slip over into position. Then take rollers that go onto s-cam and install them. Is easy with taking a cresent wrench and pulling brakes apart and slipping knurled roller into position. Once in position, take screw driver and push little springy locks into their holes. This takes just about no physical effort. There is little flat spots in s-cam where the brake shoes collapse the most. If you're having trouble, it's because you haven't got them in the exact right spot to install the big spring. This way is MUCH less effort than what you did.
I knocked the rollers out of a bearing the other day. I put the cage in one of them magnetic bowls for nuts and bolts and the mag held the rollers in just like the grease would. Worked pretty slick.
I noticed that while you were putting the tip in you didn't mention anything about your new rubbers there. I spied some fresh airbags on that axle! Yes, you usually can get wheel studs with an oversized shank (who doesn't want a little oversize on their stud afterall). Some weird wheel studs there aren't any options, in those cases I've welded up the holes in the hub and bored them back out on a mill. Not worth that effort if it's a common hub or you can get an oversized stud, but sometimes you just have to do it.
You were the one playing with your springy-thingy in the video! I was just commenting on the stud problem.....soooooo........ummmmm...... Hope those Kenny hats are ready soon, no better truck ever built than an A model. But I might be biased, I learned to drive in one.
Luck with the wheel bearing I have done that with needle bears in drive lines The company I worked would put anti-seize on the lug nuts and the started to get loose wheels on the trucks. Tire people claimed it was the anti-seize? I do not known I guess they like to burn them on so they do not come loose. Called fusion welding. How did you get the pounds to off out run the people north of the border
i wish i could spell better.but here go's..i us to do the pins and rolls after the springs. bar them down and up to get the pins and rolls in...i hit a cow doing 55 and the truck i was in was not a truck any more..and i do not drive any more. that was along time back. so i thank you. just seeing the road and the off road work is like we us to do.
yes i did.more like rehurt. i had a bad back so it did a # on me.i was told i would not walk.years and a lot of work i can ..but to top it off the windshild class cut my face. i had eyes that work to gether so i lost my cdl.i steel have day i have to stay in bed.i can not move my lags.oh i wish i could typ/spell beter.my dad us to do what you do in aptos,ca...
I was taught never to lube wheel studs by a GM engineer. they are not lubed from factory. they could loosen too easy on the road. just food for thought. I enjoy your channel
Chicago Wobblers.......classic. Happy belated birthday and congrats on the weight loss....good for you. Yeah....tire and brake work sucks. And that's all I have to say about that sh*t. It's good to see that you are going to fix the A model "Kenny". And to hell with invading someone. We can't take care of what we have now! Be safe out there.
Is the 1958-59 Dodge Custom Royal "beyond the point of no return" or is another project looming when SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) kicks you out of the house because you are being a pest? My brother, here in South Australia has a 1959 RHD Dodge Custom Royal. Cars were assembled by Chrysler here in South Australia from 'CKD' kits (Completely Knocked Down) imported from the US.
My email address is: michaelinerney@bigpond.com If you wish, please send a 'contact email to me so that I can send you some images of the Custom Royal the brut has here in South Australia. .
As I watched your video I saw you put anti seize on those studs, as many many people do, me included i used to ,but there is actually a difference when you tighten those nuts down because of the friction difference between a wet and dry torque, you need less torque on a nut or bolt that has been juiced up than a dry one, it's hard to believe but it's true I use a squirt of WD-40 because it evaporates after a while, an old school tire guy told me something similar thing years ago, but to each his own , I like your vids ,my background is in excavation and we have family around Boise, your a hoot to watch and I can relate
You are supposed to reduce the applied torque on the fasteners that have anti-seize on them by 50% to avoid pulling the threads off the studs or nuts. But if you are getting away with it, I guess it's ok.
Thanks, I use the 3/4 impact so as not to over torque, most tire shops use a 1 inch impact with around 900 to 1,000 ft pounds of torque, I've never had one come loose except for when the fix it shop put the left hub on the right side
Good one as always Boss man lol!! You are just a nut! That's all there is to it! Hehe but your damn good at it! So no sense messin with perfection! CMON! Poor Ole Kenny ;-(
Hey Jeff when you're ready to do the brakes again save yourself some heartache and just switch over to new outboard hubs, drum's and piloted wheel's or you can keep the 10 hole Budds. I'm doing the same thing on one of my trailers here shortly. It's only about$1,000 to do everything on 2 axles, and that includes new bearings!! $250 per corner you really can't beat it!
Jpaydirt well at least it's up and running! I did the same thing on one of my other trailers before I started checking into it. But outboard is just so much easier when you're doing brake maintenance!
The way I do it is to put the rollers in after the shoes are in place I also leave out the s-cam rollers until shoes and springs are in place. I use a pry bar to pull the shoes apart enough to install the pins first and then the s-cam rollers. I think the way you do it works too. Takes all kinds to make the world go round. I will try to do a video next time I do some.
awesome glad to see the anti sieze an your gona fix kenny!? that'll be a great series of vids my 4runner uses the studs to hold the front rotor to its hub and 3 bolts as well yes its not big as yours but engineers if they had to work on what they design they wouldnt do it that way
Jeff, I found out that my oil cooler and the bottom half of the radiator are stopped up. I had a fuel leak at the injector pump last year ( D 5 B , 3306). ANY ADVICE ON cleaning (solvent)? I thought I would try pushing a zip tie through fins.
The drums were shot and the bottom shoes were all rust jacking the lining off, I did all the other wheels this one was in the best of worst shape, I just wanted them all in the same condition so I didn't have to worry about any trouble
I just use a screwdriver that fits under the spring ,pops it out every time ,ps ,I can't wait till new Kenny needs brakes I hope there not the new eatons😄
Ha ha ha I think you could have got that on in one go if it was,nt for the constipation.jeff. Looking at you now i think you,re wasting away.Thanks Jeff,another good vid.
I have worked mostly on class 4 and five import trucks. On some drums the stud has a shoulder, goes thru drum into the hub, and is bolted on the back side of the hub to something like 375 ft lbs. You need to cherry it up to get it off and that changes the steel qualities. Then hit it with an air chisel. No fun to get off. Stretch, corrosion and fatigue were the reasons Mitsubishi and Isuzu recommended they be changed I guess.
waiting4aliens that was they're reasoning just so that they could sell you new parts! Truth be known you are stretching them more by putting the lug nuts on tight more than you ever would by taking them out! The studs that you would have the most problem with reusing are the ones that have spline's that have to be beaten in not the ones that have the nuts on the back.
Good job using NeverSiez, after burning, chisling and cursing many inner n outer Buds wheel nuts in my career I never had any issues when a dab of NeverSiez was used, its also good on the brake pivot pins to get them out next time. Wrestling brake shoes is a bitch every time, its the nature of the beast.
I never wear sunglasses but I think I am gonna get me some!!!!!!! (ya know to protect my eyes from the sun!!) Can you say MELONoma!!!! Now I know why all the modern day cowboys wear sunglasses, especially in public........
You might have to put a disclaimer about the girl pictures.. Kinda like when we were younger looking at National Geographic magazine when the naked jungle women are in it. Lol
smacked the cage! jeeze, what kind of an apprentice are ya! we canadians would never do such a thing! you're doing the shoes the right way, but i prefer a 24" screwdriver with a notch cut in it for the anchor springs. just set the top hook in, put the screwdriver on the bottom hook and give it a little pop with your palm. bobs your alcoholic failure of an uncle and your shoes are on. as far as the hubs and studs...hube are consumables if you're not an owner operator. shit gets wonky, we replace it. that includes when your lugs spin off from using anti sleaze on the studs!
just givin you a hard time. i HAVE had studs come loose on units that had the threads anti-seized. can't say whether it was the problem 100%, just an observation. had instructors and old techs tell me the same about lubing the threads. it also increases the torque that you apply when tightening and you can run into issues breaking/stretching them if you do the standard 500ftlbs. i just give them a wire brush to clean them up and a proper torque. at the most i hit them with a little wd-40 if they look rough.
Anti-seize is needed when the likelihood of galling or seizing is present, like stainless on stainless which is almost guaranteed to happen. New wheel studs don't need it because they have a coating and lubricating them will change the torque settings. You were using an air impact wrench so torque was not exactly precise. Yes they will rust in time, fact of life. A good heavy grease where needed is better than anti-seize IMHO. Love your videos. Did those Canuck ladies really have your hats on?????
My dad commented more than once---"The good mechanics ought to be able to earn their wages by noon every day, or sooner than noon, just in saving parts that are still good, rather than always replacing with new stuff". I thought of that when I saw you put that bearing back in service, thanks Jeff.
*gives deck of cards* Here, mister, 52-card pick up is a LOT easier and cleaner than 52 bearing pick up. Although, you do get one attaboy point for a nice save on putting it back together. No wonder u need lube for ur stool. *nervous look* Obviously you've reduced ur intake to hay and bean sprouts the way ur dropping pounds. This wouldn't be a Jeffy production without "beaver" (aka fachina!) and boobage worked into it somewhere. Your smileage may vary.
FYI We did invade Canada, you could look it up , but they were too tough. Mexico was a pushover and we got California where I live. Do you know why Canada has the French and we got black people? The US had first choice!
Lisle makes a bit for an air hammer for driving out old anchor pins and the bushings and will drive in and automatically align the new bushing. i saw one of the old techs use one my first day turning wrenches and it was the first thing that i bought off of the tool truck and i still have it to this day. A brake spring spreader makes putting in the anchor springs a breeze.
Jeff get a long screw driver and cut a notch out of it. Use it as a pry bar to buy the red springs on instead of the voice grips. Also take one of your old rollers and weld a handle and flat plate on it to put the new bushings in with.
Brake shoe removal or install: insert pry bar above top roller on s-cam. End of bar should end up on the spindle or spider. Lift shoe and remove roller. Repeat for lower s-cam roller. There will now be enough slack to remove the front single spring by hand while holding the lower shoe up. Allow the lower shoe to fall away from the s-cam, swing it backwards to provide slack to remove the rear springs. Assembly: place upper shoe on rear roller and the front rests on the s-cam without a roller. Hang two rear springs on top shoe. Place lower shoe on rear pivot roller and swing it down and backwards to place the two rear springs into the lower shoe. Swing lower shoe forward towards s-cam. Hang front spring from top shoe and lift lower shoe to attach spring to lower shoe. Use pry bar over s-cam to lift shoes away from s-cam to install each s-cam roller. Note s-cam must be in neutral, slack adjuster backed off, for this to work. Same position you had it in. No tools necessary for springs with this method and no chance of slippage. Hope it makes sense. In the early 90's there were over sized studs available for those hubs, I used them. Can't remember mfg though. Also use your tire bar to walk the tires on or OFF the hub, save the back.
honestly, too much screwin around for me. just take a cheap 24" blade screwdriver, cut a notch in the tip that fits the anchor springs.
remove by putting the screwdriver in the lower spring hook and give it a bump with the palm of your hand, repeat for other spring, lift the shoe off the anchor and forward to pop it off the cam and you're off.
install by putting the shoes on the cam with main spring and rollers installed first, bump the shoe to get it on the anchor pins, install the anchor springs by putting the top hook in, screwdriver in the bottom hook and give it another bump and she's in.
i'm with you on the wheels. i make sure to only jack the truck up about so there's about an inch and a bit under the tires and walk them off with the old 50" pry bar.
Where were you about two videos ago? I totally understood your explanation, that makes sense, I will try this next time☻ Thanks!
Read this guys explanation and tell me what you think about his method azkmdsm5 hours ago (edited)
Brake shoe removal or install: insert pry bar above top roller on s-cam. End of bar should end up on the spindle or spider. Lift shoe and remove roller. Repeat for lower s-cam roller. There will now be enough slack to remove the front single spring by hand while holding the lower shoe up. Allow the lower shoe to fall away from the s-cam, swing it backwards to provide slack to remove the rear springs. Assembly: place upper shoe on rear roller and the front rests on the s-cam without a roller. Hang two rear springs on top shoe. Place lower shoe on rear pivot roller and swing it down and backwards to place the two rear springs into the lower shoe. Swing lower shoe forward towards s-cam. Hang front spring from top shoe and lift lower shoe to attach spring to lower shoe. Use pry bar over s-cam to lift shoes away from s-cam to install each s-cam roller. Note s-cam must be in neutral, slack adjuster backed off, for this to work. Same position you had it in. No tools necessary for springs with this method and no chance of slippage. Hope it makes sense. In the early 90's there were over sized studs available for those hubs, I used them. Can't remember mfg though. Also use your tire bar to walk the tires on or OFF the hub, save the back.
Jpaydirt Sorry, when you posted your first vid I thought WTH is he doing? But I couldn't think of a clear way to explain it in words. Today when I saw that you were receptive of input, it just came to me. Glad it made sense. Sometimes when you remove the s-cam rollers you'll need to keep lifting to "stretch" the front spring to facilitate toolless removal. There are lots of ways to do it, but I have never found an easier one.
tr0n that's how I originally did it, then the screwdriver slipped and I ate shit. An old guy took pity on me and showed me the pry bar method and I've never looked back. I've never found a situation where it didn't work or presented a chance for injury. I'm one to always seek out better/faster methods and I haven't found one. I worked in a freightshaker stealership and had lots of practice.
I am watching you do brakes on your booster. For the double springs an easy way to do the spring is with a long blade screwdriver. About 3/8 of an inch from the blade end grind a groove on the side. Get behind the anchor pins and reach in . Use the screwdriver to remove the springs by prying them out . To install hook the top of the spring put the screwdriver groove on the bottom push down using your weight and hook them. You might have to tap them for final click.
For the installation of the inner mount drums. Put the old brake drum on the floor flange up put your hub you are using flange down put new drum on insert studs and with a piece or 2 inch shaft stand and seat the studs. Easy on back and threads. Like your show . Leonard Johnston. Andrew Alberta
Jeff great job with the diet looking good. When my studs was lose in the hubs i changed the hub. When i did i switched to outboard drums. The other lowboy i had was grease hubs and i could not get parts for it anymore so i cut the axles out and installed new ones. Not as big of job as you might think it is!
Another great video Jeff. I'll have to remember the bearing, never would of thought to try getting one back together like that.
another guy commented that he did the same thing but put it in a magnetic parts tray to hold the rollers in
Are you sure the rollers went back in the same direction? I do the brake springs the other way. I set the top shoe on. Then hang the bottom shoe vertical by the two side springs and you can rotate it up to the S cam. Then reach through the rollers and clip in the spring by the cam. I use a pry bar with a little notch cut in it to hook the spring.
I get what your saying, but what do you mean by the rollers the same directions
Sorry, that was confusing. I meant the rollers in the bearing. It seems like you would have to get them back in the cage in the original orientation, or the wear pattern would be all cattywampus.
Cattywampus.......Now Wes is that a word LOL
I don't think you will find it in a dictionary. I remember the first time I encountered an angular contact bearing. I had no idea you could just pop them apart by hand. I spilled the balls out of a $300 bearing before I even knew what happened.
I like the little box sleeper on your yellow truck photo. Looks good! I've been watching the loggers work on their stuff , you look like you REALLY know what your doing. Thanks!
I can pretend with the best of them LOL
Been waiting for you to fix Ol Kenney! Hope to see plenty of videos of him
I think yer buddy Maynard was thinking of automotive drum brakes. I have done that many times. You can lay them down, and put the top and bottom springs on and the self adjuster, then pop them into the wheel cylinder. Obviously not truck brakes
Jeff , before you put the brake shoes back on the axle put all the springs on then place the shoes on the axle and then put the rear anchor pins in last lifting each shoe just enough with a bar to fit the pins ,Thank you for the video and Take Care, and please let me know £££££s Thanks JEFF.
That's how this Canadian HD mechanic does it. Easy Peezy
Ok thats what i was doing wrong
A great video jeff as always. congrats on taking the 40 pounds off.
I took off 50 pounds 4 years ago and gained 5 pounds back and still holding.
I always heard that diets don't work and so true that is . You have to change what you eat
and stay with it. Cook your own food and stay away from sugar etc etc.
True!
I always use anti sieze on all the roller and metal to metal surfaces and when installing the springs i use vice grips and a pry bar and put the pry bar against the spindle and hook them up but to each is own i really love your w9 bro!
That's cool that your getting ol Kenney back up and going! Hope to see more viedo of that. There is no way you can assemble them brakes on the ground like that think he was messing with ya lol
I ran across this without running over an one. I'm the old guy in front of you doing 65 on a 75 Mph Highway. You know the one drivers like to tailgate and intimidate. Being I am i West Virginia I carry. I choose the slow lane because I am not in any hurry.I don't drive trucks, the biggest for me was an F8 and tractors D4's. I am retired no accidents in 62 years of driving and 2 tickets. Both in speed traps. Contested both, had to pay one. I put 90,000 miles on a new 79 150 Ford. Put just under 400K on an Izusu Pup with deisel Engine. The engine was great when I got rid of it. The problem was; my dog refused to ride in it because the floor boards had rusted away. I sold it in Jan 2000! You were better looking when you were 40 pounds heavier!
Jim jim jim I looked better fat? No way........ I feel better
Random thoughts by Jim Key.
Good job on the trailer brakes. The only thing I don't see is a lot of grease on that lock nut at the end before the brake drum went on
Greatest video title in the history of UA-cam.
that why I always wear my sunglass ! you just never know when that perfect opportunity will come along to look at the sun !!!! lol
Omg Jeff where is your jack stands and why not use them, we love ya to much to have you working around heavy stuff only held up with a floor jack.
Also wouldn’t it be better to use the star pattern when tightening up those hubs and wheels etc.
I'd check that bearing, you reassembled, very thoroughly after the first trip, for excess heat at least.
Oh ya I did check it several times, thanks
Inboard mounted Drums..... Kill me now...lol!!!! Not big on Low Boys, do they usually deal in inboards? I have and will always use Vise-Grips on those springs. They have come out with some awesome brake chamber tools, as of late. It's cut my time in half, honestly.
as far as the holes for the studs either spot bead of weld or stake the holes
THAT is NOT how you put on quick change brake kits!!!! You just put on the little springs on the pin side and swing them into position. Then, with the s-cam in the exact right position you can install the BIG spring to hold the 2 shoes together. NO pliers needed, just swivel bottom spring holder up and spring will just slip over into position. Then take rollers that go onto s-cam and install them. Is easy with taking a cresent wrench and pulling brakes apart and slipping knurled roller into position. Once in position, take screw driver and push little springy locks into their holes. This takes just about no physical effort. There is little flat spots in s-cam where the brake shoes collapse the most. If you're having trouble, it's because you haven't got them in the exact right spot to install the big spring. This way is MUCH less effort than what you did.
Yah after that was explained to me I figured it out, I suck☻
Glad you like the buckle, it will work on your web belt that you wear.
I knocked the rollers out of a bearing the other day. I put the cage in one of them magnetic bowls for nuts and bolts and the mag held the rollers in just like the grease would. Worked pretty slick.
Good idea! Less mess☻
Wd40 has no lubrication qualities at all .it stands for water displacement test 40 ! You need something designed for lubrication to fix your squeaks.
LOL bearings . been there done that too many times
I noticed that while you were putting the tip in you didn't mention anything about your new rubbers there. I spied some fresh airbags on that axle! Yes, you usually can get wheel studs with an oversized shank (who doesn't want a little oversize on their stud afterall). Some weird wheel studs there aren't any options, in those cases I've welded up the holes in the hub and bored them back out on a mill. Not worth that effort if it's a common hub or you can get an oversized stud, but sometimes you just have to do it.
Putting the tip in? new rubbers? wait.... what are we talking about☻
You were the one playing with your springy-thingy in the video! I was just commenting on the stud problem.....soooooo........ummmmm...... Hope those Kenny hats are ready soon, no better truck ever built than an A model. But I might be biased, I learned to drive in one.
Luck with the wheel bearing I have done that with needle bears in drive lines The company I worked would put anti-seize on the lug nuts and the started to get loose wheels on the trucks. Tire people claimed it was the anti-seize? I do not known I guess they like to burn them on so they do not come loose. Called fusion welding. How did you get the pounds to off out run the people north of the border
A Canadian of all people☻ I'll tell you about him sometime, pretty good feller for a norther☻
i wish i could spell better.but here go's..i us to do the pins and rolls after the springs. bar them down and up to get the pins and rolls in...i hit a cow doing 55 and the truck i was in was not a truck any more..and i do not drive any more. that was along time back. so i thank you. just seeing the road and the off road work is like we us to do.
Did you get hurt in the crash
yes i did.more like rehurt. i had a bad back so it did a # on me.i was told i would not walk.years and a lot of work i can ..but to top it off the windshild class cut my face. i had eyes that work to gether so i lost my cdl.i steel have day i have to stay in bed.i can not move my lags.oh i wish i could typ/spell beter.my dad us to do what you do in aptos,ca...
I use my victor, aka “cutting torch” on the springs
Anitsize is mans best friend on the old ball n seat wheels. I think I still have 3-4 of the inner barrel nut extractor sockets
I was taught never to lube wheel studs by a GM engineer. they are not lubed from factory. they could loosen too easy on the road. just food for thought. I enjoy your channel
Thats probably true for vehicles with right hand threads all the way around
Chicago Wobblers.......classic.
Happy belated birthday and congrats on the weight loss....good for you.
Yeah....tire and brake work sucks. And that's all I have to say about that sh*t.
It's good to see that you are going to fix the A model "Kenny".
And to hell with invading someone. We can't take care of what we have now!
Be safe out there.
Is the 1958-59 Dodge Custom Royal "beyond the point of no return" or is another project looming when SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) kicks you out of the house because you are being a pest? My brother, here in South Australia has a 1959 RHD Dodge Custom Royal. Cars were assembled by Chrysler here in South Australia from 'CKD' kits (Completely Knocked Down) imported from the US.
The Dodge just needs a tranny, she runs like an aussie sewing machine 45 thousand original miles
My email address is: michaelinerney@bigpond.com If you wish, please send a 'contact email to me so that I can send you some images of the Custom Royal the brut has here in South Australia.
.
ok but my email address is on my about page
And, I hope you put the second spring in the front of the shoes close to the frame
Come see Canada 🇨🇦Cambridge Ontario . Mighty Moe Excavating gives thumbs up
Thanks, Mighty Moe!
As I watched your video I saw you put anti seize on those studs, as many many people do, me included i used to ,but there is actually a difference when you tighten those nuts down because of the friction difference between a wet and dry torque, you need less torque on a nut or bolt that has been juiced up than a dry one, it's hard to believe but it's true I use a squirt of WD-40 because it evaporates after a while, an old school tire guy told me something similar thing years ago, but to each his own , I like your vids ,my background is in excavation and we have family around Boise, your a hoot to watch and I can relate
You are supposed to reduce the applied torque on the fasteners that have anti-seize on them by 50% to avoid pulling the threads off the studs or nuts. But if you are getting away with it, I guess it's ok.
Thanks, I use the 3/4 impact so as not to over torque, most tire shops use a 1 inch impact with around 900 to 1,000 ft pounds of torque, I've never had one come loose except for when the fix it shop put the left hub on the right side
He hit three bridges and the police had to stop him. My company had to hire him after that 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Good one as always Boss man lol!! You are just a nut! That's all there is to it! Hehe but your damn good at it! So no sense messin with perfection! CMON! Poor Ole Kenny ;-(
How about a gofundme for Old Kenny?☻
At 7m40s, I got a hernia watching you grunt!!
see a doctor if the erection lasts longer than this video☻
Hey Jeff when you're ready to do the brakes again save yourself some heartache and just switch over to new outboard hubs, drum's and piloted wheel's or you can keep the 10 hole Budds. I'm doing the same thing on one of my trailers here shortly. It's only about$1,000 to do everything on 2 axles, and that includes new bearings!! $250 per corner you really can't beat it!
Wow, I guess I should have looked first
Jpaydirt well at least it's up and running! I did the same thing on one of my other trailers before I started checking into it. But outboard is just so much easier when you're doing brake maintenance!
The way I do it is to put the rollers in after the shoes are in place I also leave out the s-cam rollers until shoes and springs are in place. I use a pry bar to pull the shoes apart enough to install the pins first and then the s-cam rollers. I think the way you do it works too. Takes all kinds to make the world go round. I will try to do a video next time I do some.
Nice job on saving the bearing!!!
Nice job on saving the bearing !!!
Another useful tip is to cut your cardboard grease tubes down as the level is used up
Why?
So you don't have to stick your fingers in so deep and save the cap keeps the crud out of the tube
yes!! ol Kenny is coming back 😎
awesome glad to see the anti sieze an your gona fix kenny!? that'll be a great series of vids
my 4runner uses the studs to hold the front rotor to its hub and 3 bolts as well yes its not big as yours but engineers if they had to work on what they design they wouldnt do it that way
please buy A set of Heavy-Duty Truck Brake Spring Pliers.....It makes that job so easy..
Thanks for the video.
Jeff, I found out that my oil cooler and the bottom half of the radiator are stopped up. I had a fuel leak at the injector pump last year ( D 5 B , 3306). ANY ADVICE ON cleaning (solvent)? I thought I would try pushing a zip tie through fins.
the zip ties didn't work. the flews are offset. I'm thinking oven cleaner.
I usually take them apart and steam clean them, but you run the risk of them being rusted out, after you clean them they may leak
thanks
What did you do move Kenny closer so it was not as far of a walk to rob parts? Everyone has their own tricks when it comes to brakes.
No parts robbing!
My son tells me not to use anti seize on wheels.
Old Kenny getting a new hammer
So you are gonna fix him?
yes
+Jpaydirt good it will be nice to see him on the road again
You must have mucho dinero, those brakes had many months of wear left
The drums were shot and the bottom shoes were all rust jacking the lining off, I did all the other wheels this one was in the best of worst shape, I just wanted them all in the same condition so I didn't have to worry about any trouble
Just take a big screw driver make a notch just up about a 1/8" from end you drive it behind spring curve pry off hook push down and hook to instole
I guess I'm a bit late on my method
I just use a screwdriver that fits under the spring ,pops it out every time ,ps ,I can't wait till new Kenny needs brakes I hope there not the new eatons😄
Why dont you get unimount hubs. Bud wheels are a pain in the ass
Ha ha ha I think you could have got that on in one go if it was,nt for the constipation.jeff. Looking at you now i think you,re wasting away.Thanks Jeff,another good vid.
Just getting down to my live longer and healthier weight☻
Your doing better than me,15lbs in 9 weeks Got a way to go, Good luck.
Pig pen ?
I no I'm late ,but I call it pocaholeole😅
What kind of boots are u wearin??
ARIAT is the brand name
I thought the studs were one and done? They were not to be reused?
Why is that?
I have worked mostly on class 4 and five import trucks. On some drums the stud has a shoulder, goes thru drum into the hub, and is bolted on the back side of the hub to something like 375 ft lbs. You need to cherry it up to get it off and that changes the steel qualities. Then hit it with an air chisel. No fun to get off. Stretch, corrosion and fatigue were the reasons Mitsubishi and Isuzu recommended they be changed I guess.
waiting4aliens that was they're reasoning just so that they could sell you new parts! Truth be known you are stretching them more by putting the lug nuts on tight more than you ever would by taking them out! The studs that you would have the most problem with reusing are the ones that have spline's that have to be beaten in not the ones that have the nuts on the back.
Good job using NeverSiez, after burning, chisling and cursing many inner n outer Buds wheel nuts in my career I never had any issues when a dab of NeverSiez was used, its also good on the brake pivot pins to get them out next time. Wrestling brake shoes is a bitch every time, its the nature of the beast.
F@#£ sakes I had u down for old fella.jay
You've really done good on the diet Mr. A. Your secrets?
I'll show you in a video
Congratulations on loosing the weight
Thanks
weld them up with a mig and ream them out to fit
I never wear sunglasses but I think I am gonna get me some!!!!!!! (ya know to protect my eyes from the sun!!) Can you say MELONoma!!!! Now I know why all the modern day cowboys wear sunglasses, especially in public........
It's mandatory for a trip to the beach, might get a cane to, like blind people use☻
Good idea, a cane works for "paid" protestors too........
You might have to put a disclaimer about the girl pictures.. Kinda like when we were younger looking at National Geographic magazine when the naked jungle women are in it. Lol
This here's a family channel no naked women, just slightly naked LOL
Yeah, those are family Ta-Ta's if ever I saw. These fine distinctions are important.
I hate tire and brake season
Thats Canucks sir!
smacked the cage! jeeze, what kind of an apprentice are ya! we canadians would never do such a thing!
you're doing the shoes the right way, but i prefer a 24" screwdriver with a notch cut in it for the anchor springs. just set the top hook in, put the screwdriver on the bottom hook and give it a little pop with your palm. bobs your alcoholic failure of an uncle and your shoes are on.
as far as the hubs and studs...hube are consumables if you're not an owner operator. shit gets wonky, we replace it. that includes when your lugs spin off from using anti sleaze on the studs!
Are you saying my old school Left and Right hand threaded studs will come loose?
just givin you a hard time. i HAVE had studs come loose on units that had the threads anti-seized. can't say whether it was the problem 100%, just an observation. had instructors and old techs tell me the same about lubing the threads. it also increases the torque that you apply when tightening and you can run into issues breaking/stretching them if you do the standard 500ftlbs.
i just give them a wire brush to clean them up and a proper torque. at the most i hit them with a little wd-40 if they look rough.
Good advice
Yeah, can tell you have lost quite a few. No more hard round beer belly...
Good job, know that's tough to do.
congrats on ya 40th birthday , now ya just gotta do some weights, that will build ya muscle back up, don't need to do heavy ones either
Oh I have plenty of muscle, I've been packing around 40 + pounds of fat☻ plus that big Johnson☻
Jpaydirt what a big Johnson collar
Anti-seize is needed when the likelihood of galling or seizing is present, like stainless on stainless which is almost guaranteed to happen. New wheel studs don't need it because they have a coating and lubricating them will change the torque settings. You were using an air impact wrench so torque was not exactly precise. Yes they will rust in time, fact of life. A good heavy grease where needed is better than anti-seize IMHO.
Love your videos. Did those Canuck ladies really have your hats on?????
yes they did
Why bother just buy a new bearing
well the sad thing is there in such good shape, Awe hell it's just money☻
My dad commented more than once---"The good mechanics ought to be able to earn their wages by noon every day, or sooner than noon, just in saving parts that are still good, rather than always replacing with new stuff". I thought of that when I saw you put that bearing back in service, thanks Jeff.
Lookin skinny there Jeff, 40 pounds is quite a load off. Ol Kenny needs a rebuild!
Ahh the dam thing kept honking her horn so I drug her up to the shop to get her to shut up☻
Jpaydirt Oh the ol girl just needs a little love!
bearings are cheap, time isnt
*gives deck of cards* Here, mister, 52-card pick up is a LOT easier and cleaner than 52 bearing pick up. Although, you do get one attaboy point for a nice save on putting it back together.
No wonder u need lube for ur stool. *nervous look* Obviously you've reduced ur intake to hay and bean sprouts the way ur dropping pounds.
This wouldn't be a Jeffy production without "beaver" (aka fachina!) and boobage worked into it somewhere. Your smileage may vary.
You are getting way too skinny Mr Jeff. You were much more "Jolly" before that damn diet too. LOL
I'm still coming down your chimmney bud, but you gotta be a good boy and stop playing doctor with the Johnson lady down the street☻
Been a really bad boy have you?☻☻
Ha!
You look fantastic. Good job losing the weight.
Thanks i'm half the man I used to be☻
FYI We did invade Canada, you could look it up , but they were too tough. Mexico was a pushover and we got California where I live. Do you know why Canada has the French and we got black people? The US had first choice!
I'm feeling triggered David
See what happens when you lose too much weight ???
You American people, did try to invade us, but you lost lol, check your history lol