Well I experienced an ugly fuel tank contamination that deposited ugly sediment inside the fuel tank, pump and carb. Replaced tank and pump, and flushed the lines. Rebuilt the carb but to decontaminate it I submerged it into a gallon of carb cleaner and got the same degreasing and stripping effects you obtained by all those procedures you performed. I painted the aluminum housings with Seymour EN-71 Hi-Tech Engine Spray Paint, Dull Aluminum and it came out very nice. For your information my carb Rochester B for 1948 Chevy 3100 truck. Your carb and mine are very similar except for the inlet fuel filter and the throttle linkage.
Thanks for the video. I am about to do a rebuild on the Model B on my Dads '66 C10 and this video will help a lot. I recommend using Super Clean Degreaser. I used it on the 230 in the '66. There was about 58 years worth of road grime and grease built onto the sides and back of the motor and now it looks brand new.
I rebuilt this exact carburetor yesterday and then saw your video today. I also had the exact problems you had putting it back together and installing it on my 292. Very timely video. Thanks
Thank you so much for your video because I still have 2 cars that use this carburator (Malibu Chevelle 1965 and Suburban Panel C10 1970) and I have only disarmed the first half part to make their maintenance. With this video now I feel safe to disarm them complete to change their spare parts. Best Regards from Mexico City.
I this is old but I've used pinesol with a little bit of lemon juice along with a splash of dishwashing soap. worked fantastic, don't leave it in there too long.. years ago it was bendix carburetor cleaner followed by a rinse in clean gas. good times.
I found a cleaner that will liquify roofing tar at Home Depot. It's called Natures Orange and it is very good at cleaning any petroleum product up. It comes in gallons and quarts and needs to be cut with equal amounts of water.
When I was a kid you can buy a paint can part cleaner dip that came with a basket. If you let things soak in there a few hours they were come out looking brand new. Much better than soaking in gas or ultrasonic. If you don’t have anything else solvent or gasoline is the next best thing to use. Berry man Chem -Dip.
Yes, I've used all of that myself in the past. I just like the idea or theory of an ultrasonic cleaner breaking up crud in the small passages. So I'm trying to experiment with products that will work well for that...if there are any. Soon I will have a video up were I rebuild the fuel pump on the '38 Buick and use a product that looks very promising. Thanks
You can get Industrial De Greasers, of the type used by cleaning industry, make a strong dilution say 50/50 with water, ( the degreasers are strong Alkali I think) - OR ? try pure diesel as a soak / cleaner
@27:29 you didn't run a wire thru the power piston. There is a small hole on the side which opens to the hollow shaft. I'd like to know if there is a hole that travels thru the base. Can someone explain what it does?
It makes no sense to clean gasoline deposits with gasoline; it won't work. For carburetors, I use aerosol carburetor cleaner; one can will thoroughly clean this carburetor. Use the spray wand to force the cleaner through all of the small orifices. I've also used Berryman's carburetor dip (the Berryman's currently available isn't as toxic as the older stuff, but doesn't work as well). Lacquer thinner also does a great job on gasoline deposits. Aerosol brake cleaner also works pretty well. For general cleaning and degreasing, I use mineral spirits in my parts washer. Simple Green and Dawn dishwashing detergent with water work well to clean greasy parts
I mentioned that because I have seen it used very effectively as a degreaser in an ultrasonic cleaner. I'm sure you know that in days gone by it was used a lot in shops for that purpose...until Joe's cigar ash dropped in the pan.
The Rochester on my 1956 235ci doesn’t seem to have any indication as to what model it is, the stamp says Rochester Gm made in USA patents pending. But there is a small x on the top left of the stamping. Is there a model designated by an x? Also, it started to leak very significantly out of the throttle shaft, which goes into the second butterfly(right?), at all times. So I took the carb off and disassembled everything and cleaned it thoroughly. Upon reinstallation the throttle shaft leak was fixed, but now under both normal and heavy acceleration, the engine hesitates and stumbles. It never did that before I disassembled the carb so I’m not sure as to what I May have accidentally done? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
I'm sure yours would be a Model BC, which means it has the round automatic choke cover on the side of the carburetor. My thoughts on things to check or recheck are: The float height to make sure that the bowl is not overfilling, the accelerator pump cup(if you replaced this it should be fine), all passages and the metering jet were clean and clear, the small screen inside the carb (28:30) is clean, but perhaps most importantly that all screws are nice and snug on the carb and check around for vacuum leaks. You can spray around with brake or carb cleaner while it's running and if the rpm changes with any particular spot where you spray then you should find a vacuum leak.
@@TheJayhawker it’s not the bc model because i have a manual choke cable running to the dashboard. It’s in a 49 Chevy pickup so I’m assuming it’s a plain old model B. I just took it apart again this morning and cleaned and inspected everything again. The accelerator pump looks good, I’ve never changed it and I never had problems with it before. The old fabric gasket was shot and seeping, so I did the proper thing and threw some permatex on the mating surfaces and called it a day. I think it’s been bleeding into itself because the gasket couldn’t hold any gasoline in the carburetor without seeping down the sides. The bowl may have been filling and continuously overflowing into other parts of the carb. I don’t know for sure I’m just theorizing why I had such terrible gas mileage, I was getting 7 if I was lucky
@@wallyworksonstuff343 Ok, sorry. I just assumed it was a car for some reason....anyway I would also suspect the condition of the needle, and whether or not the fuel is being shut off even if the float is correct, that could account for the bowl overfilling and also for the raw gas from the throttle shaft. Also, if these are all old seals, gaskets, and needle and you have been using ethanol gas it could have damaged any of these.
I absolutely love your series with this truck. I did the muriatic 10:1 and unfortunately my carb is junk after. The excelerator pump cup does not fit in the bore correctly , my choke plate shaft is gapped and passes air as well, the T & spring will not fit or stay in where it goes now. It’s like every internal bore has been bored out because it is missing the cad playing.
The only way that should have happened is if you left it in there for a lot of HOURS. Like I said I only had it in the acid for about half an hour and even then the CAD plating on the inside of the carb didn't come off. And that's 10 parts water to 1 part acid. Just checking...
Excellent work and great video. Just to me. From what I can see. You put in the filter on backwards. The way you put it. There is really no filter. The spring is supposed to be on the flat part of the filter. If it goes into the filter. Then is it really doing anything?like pushing like it should 🤔 I am no expert. And I very much could be wrong. But I believe that the gas filters inside the filter. Gas has to go inside. If it stays around the outside..I Donno Sorry but I just don't understand 😅
Just picked up (no pun intended) a big old Hyster forklift with a swapped in 292. Carb looks different than this one, maybe a Holley? (Edit, nope it's a Bendix) Are the new China-Ebay carbs that go for $70-120 worth a try these days?
I have no clue, I have never wanted to "go there" but I suppose a lot of people do. With a core, a remanufactured original on rockauto is about $150.00.
@@Cariboobear What were you using it on, a rock crusher or stump grinder? I can't imagine what could cause enough vibration that it would loosen threaded fittings inside the carb. Were the threads defective? I see a number of vids on here where guys have had zero problems with them.
The screw at 37:53 … what makes it pop up? I accidentally loosened cit until it came out. In the carb, under the screw was a small brown piece of plastic and I don’t know what direction it goes. Should there be a spring?
Well I experienced an ugly fuel tank contamination that deposited ugly sediment inside the fuel tank, pump and carb. Replaced tank and pump, and flushed the lines. Rebuilt the carb but to decontaminate it I submerged it into a gallon of carb cleaner and got the same degreasing and stripping effects you obtained by all those procedures you performed. I painted the aluminum housings with
Seymour EN-71 Hi-Tech Engine Spray Paint, Dull Aluminum and it came out very nice. For your information my carb Rochester B for 1948 Chevy 3100 truck. Your carb and mine are very similar except for the inlet fuel filter and the throttle linkage.
Thanks for the video. I am about to do a rebuild on the Model B on my Dads '66 C10 and this video will help a lot. I recommend using Super Clean Degreaser. I used it on the 230 in the '66. There was about 58 years worth of road grime and grease built onto the sides and back of the motor and now it looks brand new.
I rebuilt this exact carburetor yesterday and then saw your video today. I also had the exact problems you had putting it back together and installing it on my 292. Very timely video. Thanks
OUTSTANDING VIDEO!! Thank you so much for taking the time and making such a great video!!
Thank you so much for your video because I still have 2 cars that use this carburator (Malibu Chevelle 1965 and Suburban Panel C10 1970) and I have only disarmed the first half part to make their maintenance. With this video now I feel safe to disarm them complete to change their spare parts. Best Regards from Mexico City.
Amazing video, watched this while rebuilding one for my 292.
Excedllent. Very good lighting and audio.
Fantastic video. Helped me rebuild my carb. Thank you !
I bet it will run great, another great video.
Great video and it helped me rebuild our 1953 Chevy truck "RP" carburetor.
Great video man,just great and keep up the great work 💪. 3 thumbs up.
I this is old but I've used pinesol with a little bit of lemon juice along with a splash of dishwashing soap.
worked fantastic, don't leave it in there too long.. years ago it was bendix carburetor cleaner followed by a rinse in clean gas. good times.
I know this is an old video. But great video. I always use dawn dish soap in my ultra sonic cleaner. It works great.
Great Video, and I love the Bible Scripture at the end, well done.
36:57 🤣👍 wasn't expecting that
Nice video
Here in Brazil, we have a GM C10, the engine is a 261 JobMaster
Very nice work.
Excellent video, thank you.
I use a product called Totally Awesome I get from dollar general, 50/50 mix with water, works well and is cheap
i soda blasted a couple of motorcycle carburetors Worked pretty well. I used the same sort of blaster you used on your valve cover and other parts
I found a cleaner that will liquify roofing tar at Home Depot. It's called Natures Orange and it is very good at cleaning any petroleum product up. It comes in gallons and quarts and needs to be cut with equal amounts of water.
thank you for helping me with mine.
God Bless you in Jesus Christ's name.
Very nice thank you ... Good to know👍 ..
Greetings from Brazil !
As a mechanic from 79-89, I found the base gasket failure a lot. They shook themselves loose, ruining the gasket.
BV 1barrel Rochester carb was used on the chevy2 nova 62-67, the one your using looks like a C10 truck carb
When I was a kid you can buy a paint can part cleaner dip that came with a basket. If you let things soak in there a few hours they were come out looking brand new. Much better than soaking in gas or ultrasonic. If you don’t have anything else solvent or gasoline is the next best thing to use. Berry man Chem -Dip.
Yes, I've used all of that myself in the past. I just like the idea or theory of an ultrasonic cleaner breaking up crud in the small passages. So I'm trying to experiment with products that will work well for that...if there are any. Soon I will have a video up were I rebuild the fuel pump on the '38 Buick and use a product that looks very promising. Thanks
You can get Industrial De Greasers, of the type used by cleaning industry, make a strong dilution say 50/50 with water, ( the degreasers are strong Alkali I think) - OR ? try pure diesel as a soak / cleaner
WD40 and a tooth brush works wonders. Can have it to bare metal in 5 min.
Try Shellac Buster by Sharper Tek. It’s made for cleaning carbs in ultrasonic machines. Works good!
thank you! I'll need that soon!
The best thing to clean it with is a nylon brush and a litre of diesel..
@27:29 you didn't run a wire thru the power piston. There is a small hole on the side which opens to the hollow shaft. I'd like to know if there is a hole that travels thru the base. Can someone explain what it does?
It makes no sense to clean gasoline deposits with gasoline; it won't work. For carburetors, I use aerosol carburetor cleaner; one can will thoroughly clean this carburetor. Use the spray wand to force the cleaner through all of the small orifices. I've also used Berryman's carburetor dip (the Berryman's currently available isn't as toxic as the older stuff, but doesn't work as well). Lacquer thinner also does a great job on gasoline deposits. Aerosol brake cleaner also works pretty well. For general cleaning and degreasing, I use mineral spirits in my parts washer. Simple Green and Dawn dishwashing detergent with water work well to clean greasy parts
I mentioned that because I have seen it used very effectively as a degreaser in an ultrasonic cleaner. I'm sure you know that in days gone by it was used a lot in shops for that purpose...until Joe's cigar ash dropped in the pan.
I use purple power for anything, including brushing my teeth
I'm putting a carter yf from a 240 international on mine.
Chevy used those as well, early 50's and before. Have fun!
A serious upgrade. Not a Rochester fan.
The Rochester on my 1956 235ci doesn’t seem to have any indication as to what model it is, the stamp says Rochester Gm made in USA patents pending. But there is a small x on the top left of the stamping. Is there a model designated by an x? Also, it started to leak very significantly out of the throttle shaft, which goes into the second butterfly(right?), at all times. So I took the carb off and disassembled everything and cleaned it thoroughly. Upon reinstallation the throttle shaft leak was fixed, but now under both normal and heavy acceleration, the engine hesitates and stumbles. It never did that before I disassembled the carb so I’m not sure as to what I May have accidentally done? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
I'm sure yours would be a Model BC, which means it has the round automatic choke cover on the side of the carburetor. My thoughts on things to check or recheck are: The float height to make sure that the bowl is not overfilling, the accelerator pump cup(if you replaced this it should be fine), all passages and the metering jet were clean and clear, the small screen inside the carb (28:30) is clean, but perhaps most importantly that all screws are nice and snug on the carb and check around for vacuum leaks. You can spray around with brake or carb cleaner while it's running and if the rpm changes with any particular spot where you spray then you should find a vacuum leak.
@@TheJayhawker it’s not the bc model because i have a manual choke cable running to the dashboard. It’s in a 49 Chevy pickup so I’m assuming it’s a plain old model B. I just took it apart again this morning and cleaned and inspected everything again. The accelerator pump looks good, I’ve never changed it and I never had problems with it before. The old fabric gasket was shot and seeping, so I did the proper thing and threw some permatex on the mating surfaces and called it a day. I think it’s been bleeding into itself because the gasket couldn’t hold any gasoline in the carburetor without seeping down the sides. The bowl may have been filling and continuously overflowing into other parts of the carb. I don’t know for sure I’m just theorizing why I had such terrible gas mileage, I was getting 7 if I was lucky
@@wallyworksonstuff343 Ok, sorry. I just assumed it was a car for some reason....anyway I would also suspect the condition of the needle, and whether or not the fuel is being shut off even if the float is correct, that could account for the bowl overfilling and also for the raw gas from the throttle shaft. Also, if these are all old seals, gaskets, and needle and you have been using ethanol gas it could have damaged any of these.
What I've done is soaking it in diesel and transmission fluid and spay it with oven cleaner
Does the tag on that say 7024008 because that’s what mine is and I’m having a hard time finding a rebuild kit. Can you send me a link?
Good luck. I’m rebuilding my ‘67 Nova carb and can’t even find a carb in stock
I absolutely love your series with this truck. I did the muriatic 10:1 and unfortunately my carb is junk after. The excelerator pump cup does not fit in the bore correctly , my choke plate shaft is gapped and passes air as well, the T & spring will not fit or stay in where it goes now. It’s like every internal bore has been bored out because it is missing the cad playing.
The only way that should have happened is if you left it in there for a lot of HOURS. Like I said I only had it in the acid for about half an hour and even then the CAD plating on the inside of the carb didn't come off. And that's 10 parts water to 1 part acid. Just checking...
Use spray carb cleaner on the soot and other crud.
Do you know what size jet is in that carburetor?
I think it's either .071" or .072". To tell you specifically for this particular one I would have to go get the carb #.
Excellent work and great video.
Just to me. From what I can see. You put in the filter on backwards. The way you put it. There is really no filter. The spring is supposed to be on the flat part of the filter. If it goes into the filter. Then is it really doing anything?like pushing like it should 🤔
I am no expert. And I very much could be wrong. But I believe that the gas filters inside the filter. Gas has to go inside.
If it stays around the outside..I Donno
Sorry but I just don't understand 😅
I agree with you, the filter is backwards!....
Que número de esprea tiene.. saludos
Just picked up (no pun intended) a big old Hyster forklift with a swapped in 292. Carb looks different than this one, maybe a Holley? (Edit, nope it's a Bendix) Are the new China-Ebay carbs that go for $70-120 worth a try these days?
I have no clue, I have never wanted to "go there" but I suppose a lot of people do. With a core, a remanufactured original on rockauto is about $150.00.
@@Cariboobear How bad was it?
@@Cariboobear What were you using it on, a rock crusher or stump grinder? I can't imagine what could cause enough vibration that it would loosen threaded fittings inside the carb. Were the threads defective? I see a number of vids on here where guys have had zero problems with them.
31:16
@33:51 didnt you put the filter in backwards?
Yes it was backwards.
@@TheJayhawker is there a hole that runs straight thru the power piston? I'm not sure if mine is clogged. What does it do?
I never waste my time on the old Rochester. A brand new copycat works fine & runs less than 100 bucks on Ebay.
The screw at 37:53 … what makes it pop up? I accidentally loosened cit until it came out. In the carb, under the screw was a small brown piece of plastic and I don’t know what direction it goes. Should there be a spring?