GREAT GREAT Information... explanation clear and one word patience to the listener.. he hits all the points.... worth the few minutes to listen.. Thank you Pool Guy..
Hello, I have a 26,000 gallon pool. I have a Pentair ic40. Last week my salt and chlorine was all good when I opened my pool. This week my pool is cloudy and my cell generator was flashing red and green on the salt level. It was red to clean it so I cleaned it even though there was no calcium buildup. I then put it back together and I pushed more for three seconds to reset it. A bunch of lights flashed and when it was finished the salt level was still red and green flashing and now the flow light is red. The water in the pump is flowing good, it is flowing good in the pool, I took it apart and lubed it on both ends and put it back together. It screwed back together easily. I emptied the basket. And I back washed. The red flow light is still on. I have the salt checked again and it was good. The generator is five years old and only runs from mid May until the end of September. I replaced the flow valve three years ago
Just came across your video. I have a saltwater pool and everything was fine with it clear and everything. But my wife took a water sample to pool store and we had to add acid, and calcium hardness. But about 3 days later the water was cloudy. My wife took another sample and the pool guy pulled up our old pool which was 6000 gal instead of the 30,000 gal we have now. He said we should put it twice has much chems than we did. So they gave her the chems we needed and the instructions. The 1st step they said to do is put 5 lbs of shock then 1/2 bottle of Stop Yellow. My wife did that. Then the guy said wait 48 hrs to put the other 5lbs of shock in the pool, but my wife says the pool looks worst. She said she noticed that there was a message on the screen that said chlorinator off no flow, which we are running the super chlorinator. I haven't check the T-15 CELL, But I know it needs cleaning. Any suggestions
It's possible the chemical you added for the calcium hardness is clouding up the water, along with all of that shock. Give it a few days to clear and I think you will be fine.
Ok! This morning I cleaned the Tcell, checked all the fuses and I backwashed. The Chlorinator off no flow went away and when I went to the diagnostic menu Flow Switch says flow. So maybe the T Cell needed cleaning but there was no Service light saying Tcel needed service.
I have noticed with the Pentair cells, after I acid wash them the entire cell is clean except for one little area. This area is completely covered in calcium, and all the other discs are clean. I don't want to keep acid washing it with most of the cell clean, just to get a small about off. I try spraying it with the garden hose, but the calcium does not come off.
I have an intext sand fliter and saltwater system for my above ground pool. It's been about 2 weeks and I only added 80 lbs of salt for 4500 gal of water. My pool is 15×48. The water is very clean, I run it 8 hours a day, but I've noticed that the water is becoming a little cloudy. I do not see calcium build up in the cell yet. I also do not want to add chemicals because I have children who are using the pool. Is the chlorine produced by the salt system the same as chemical chlorine? I will have a friend check my water tomorrow. Watched your video about using the BBB method. I want to use as less chemicals as I can, but I wouldn't want to compromise the children's health with dirty pool water. I've learned so much watching your videos, thank you for all your hard work!
Thanks for the great feedback. Yes, test the pool water and add some chlorine if needed. It sounds like maybe the salt system is not producing. From my calculations you are about 40 lbs short on salt - probably why it is not producing.
I have the Saltron generator. 3 days running and no cholrine reading for a 13,000 gal. pool. It's rated for 20,000 gal. Salt level is 3400 within range. Thanks.
@@SPL Now it's 4 days. I added 2 cups of shock and filled the floating duck with cholrine tablets. It rained about 45 minuts after I added. The Ph & salt levels are in range. No conditioner. I did add acid to bring the Ph down. Ph is 7.5 and still no cholrine as of 15:30 hrs. 04/15/2019. I will add 2 more cups of shock. Water is clear. Thank you!
With phosphates my salt cell stop producing clorine.. after I put phosphate remover it magically comes back. Yesterday I put a calcium remover product and now I have zero clorine..!! Any recommendations? I washed filter, and cleaned in acid/water the salt cell
bought a home with an old hayward goldline. The configuration menu shows T -5 and T-15 only. no number 9. yet there is a T925 salt cell installed at the moment. should i swap the salt cell to a one of the T-5,T15. thanks in advance.
Cell green light will not stay on. Salt and pool math is all great other than dropping chlorine level because the cell wont stay green. The cell will illuminate green for a few minutes once you turn the sanitation % amount up but then will go right back off to no color light at all. Cell is only 7 months old. Help!!
I think undamaged mine with acid for to long. The stuff I bought was weak, normally it would fix but didn't. So I let it stand overnight as it was taking way longer than the typical half hour to clean it up. Well my salt levels are good, chemistry is good. But water sample shows no chlorine.
@@SPL it's not the cell. Guy replaced board and it said 2800 but not generating. So I tried to recalibrate, but when you wait for the click before you hit diagnostic button. It doesn't click. Now it says -0. What does it mean when it doesn't click? Or how do I get it going
I have a 16 by 4 ft. I have an intex salt machine. It says low salt but I took water sample to a pool store n it's actually high. Right now I put vinegar n left it overnight. Hopefully it work.
This is very informative. We just had a 16,000 gallon pool installed a few weeks back. Salt was added about two weeks ago, and was being maintained by the pool installers pool guy. I bought a Sutro to test the levels. I started getting the readings today with low chlorine levels. Salt cell is rated for a 40,000 and has been running 100%. After listening to this it seems maybe our SWG hasn’t been running long enough. We have a variable pump I believe but was told not to mess with the scheduling. Any tips to figure out what to do?
Run your pool at the full 3450 RPM - 100% speed and salt output at 100%. Test and see. At those setting the system should make about 1 lbs of chlorine which should raise the chlorine level up to a high level. Also make sure you have about 80 ppm of Cyanuric Acid in the pool.
Do you have somebody you can recommend to service my Acura plus system Kissimmee Florida. Mi-acid reserve tank it's not running and a half to be adding salt to a pool check system light is on and also the inspect the cell.
I have a 10,000 gallons in ground pool and Aqua Rite control panel. The cell went bad and ended up with high amp/salt level (6,400 ppm). I drained half of the pool and replaced with fresh water. My system still sending the high amp/salt level. The salt level is still saying 6,400 ppm. What could be the cause of getting this bad reading?
My salt water chlorinator is working intermittently. I have 5 green led lights from 0 to 100%.I have it turned to 100% which should light up the 5 leds.Sometimes it does and sometimes only 1 led is lit. My pool has perfect water chemistry with slightly high chlorine reading as I super shocked it due to algae.My pool salt is over 6,000ppm. Recommendations are minimum 5000ppm optimum 6,000ppm and max 6,500ppm. Could the chlorinator cell not be making chlorine as the salt level may be higher than 6,500ppm thus sometimes showing only 1 led when set at MAX Chlorine? Thanks for any help.
We just hooked up our salt generator a few days ago. Within the first hour the display was reading 2800 while I was mixing salt. The next day it read 0000 and that is all it has read since. It is producing no chlorine. What can I do to fix it? It’s literally brand new.
Thank you for the good information on salt water pools. My husband and I have diffrent ideas on what is going on with our salt water pool. It is only 2 years old and the pass year I have something that is swimming in my pool They are tiny black things, but boy can they swim!!!!!!!!! Im afraid to swim in the pool. They make wakes like a boat in the water...... I thought I was going crazy and seeing things. I have tried everything to kill them, you name it Ihave done it, but its not working. I look it up and they look like mosquito larvae. Can you help me PLEASE!!!!!!! Thank you, Carol :)
Thanks for getting back with me but I don’t have them. You can’t hardly see them so tiny. I wish I could send you a video of what I get out of the water and how they swim real good. I’m just sick over it. I put liquid chlorine in the pool and I bought dunks those things that look like donuts nothing seems to work !! 😩
We have had low chlorine readings for a while although we run our pump 24/7. We have been told the cell is gone so we have just replaced it. We have a Aquarite with a T3 cell. The salt reading is at 3300...we set the dial at 50 so the chlorine output is somewhere around 2. The problem is that after a couple of hours the output sets itself to 0. Help please.
I have an intex salt water system and no error codes, indicates everything is working but when I test for chlorine, my test strip is white and NO SIGN OF CHLORINE, why?
Just had a new Pentair installed. All chemicals are reading good, all lights are green (flow, salt, cell) on the Pentair but after running at 100% for 48 hours straight it has produced no chlorine. Our pool guy seems out of his depths and is saying it could be a filter needing replacement, but with flow green and it producing literally zero chlorine, could it really be a bad filter doing that much harm?
It could be something as simple as the pool having a very low CYA level. Or some other issue - was it holding chlorine with your previous method before the salt cell was installed?
@@SPL So our CYA number from the water test was 28 PPM. Is that low enough to cause zero chlorine to be present in the pool? I have an automatic pool cover and have been leaving the pool cover closed this whole time. Our pool was fine last year using regular chlorine.
My check cell light is coming on before and after I replacing the Hayward W3T-CELL-15. The panel was not showing accurate salt levels and my pool didn't seem to be generating enough chlorine. I'm trying to purchase another salt generator but I'm having a hard time finding an AguaTrol that can handle 40,000 gallons.
Hi,thank you, great information. I have an aquarite that is not powering up. It comes for 5 secondsand turns off. I just tested the water and salt level is at 1970...way below. Is this reason you beleive it isnt powering up or another issue?
I have an IChlor salt cell that has all green lights on with a 3,000 salt reading . Each week I take a sample of water to be tested at my local Pinch-a-Penny. This week the store manager informed me while my salt level is sufficient, there is no chlorine in the pool. Again, there is no indication from the light system that informs me of a dirty cell. What should I do now?
Why is My brand new IC40 not generating any chlorine. My salt level is at 3500ppm according to Leslies Pool and my digital meter shows 4000ppm. Flow light is green. Salt indicator light flashes red and green for 5 mins then stays solid red indicating low salt.
I have a Pentair Intellichlor IC20 for my 12,000 gallon pool. The salt it produces is too high at 4500, but it doesn't produce chlorine. It gives us a "Clean Salt Cell" alert. There was buildup and we cleaned it, but we still get the alert. The salt cell is about 5 years old. I was told to check the fuse? Please advise. Thank you!
Hello, I have a Pentair IChlor 30. It has just over 1100 hours on it. It has quit producing chlorine.When I put it in Diagnostic Mode, the voltage is only reading 20.1 volts. Of what I've seen and heard, the voltage has to be at least 22 volts for it to work correctly. Any ideas as to why the voltage is only 20.1 volts?
My Hayward salt and cell light are on steady. I replaced the cell, ran it at 100 percent (t9), and it still isn’t generating chlorine. Salt level is at 3100, so it’s good. I also replaced the flow valve. Still no chlorine. Purchased and replaced the motherboard, and it had no power at all. So I purchased a new display board, and it still has no power. I Sent the motherboard back and put the old one back on and the power on display operating, but the salt and cell lights are still on. Any suggestions? I got the system in 2017.
Noticed my Hayward aquarite system had a low salt message of 2600 ppm. I’m in the north San Diego area could all the rain we’ve had lowered my salt level? How did my salt level drop?
I have the Aqua Trol system and have a brand new Salt Cell and also have a very well maintained box. We have high salt level and have drained half the pool and plus rain water and it’s still ridiculously high. Is there a better way to lower the salt level?
I have a 25,000 gallon salt water pool. My pool is not producing chlorine. I dip my tester in and everything reads great except free chlorine., I have 0 chlorine. My SWG has 2 green lights which is good. I cleaned my Hayward T-cell last year when I closed my pool. If it had calcium build up then my SWG would have a red dot telling me to clean my cell, right? My local company tells me to keep adding pool shock. I have added 4 cases of shock in 2 weeks. I need assistance as to how do I know if my SWG is working properly as well as the salt cell. I have a Hayward Aqua Rite. My SWG reads 4200 salt which I think is inaccurate. I have added 7 bags of salt along with the shock. The water is clear. I believe the cell is about 4 years old. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks. Any thing I should know before I change my cell? Once I get my new cell, is their anything I must do to program the new cell in the SWG? Or is it as simple as putting the new cell on and I am good for the next 3-4 summers?
Hi, what do you know regarding off brand cells. i bought a calimar salt cell for my aquarite system with 3yr warranty for my hayward. my hayward just died after 4 yrs at 100%. input please. hayward cells are very expensive.
@@SPL thanks for your help and great audio! I bought a salt meter. Should I buy a cyanuric acid kit? I can get the Pentair for $25 shipped. Also should I use a liquid pool test kit or strips? I just don't know.
I have a brand new Hayward swimpure extreme 40k put on my 11k gallon pool. I have the dial down to 5% but for some reason the display always says generating salt when I spot check it. The pump runs 6 hours a day. Does this sound defective? Also have you ever considered offering virtual pool diagnostics for a fee? You could use FaceTime/Skype to troubleshoot with people all remotely. I’d be interested if you were willing. Thanks!
I think that light will always be on - it only has two toggle points - generating and flashing indicating a problem. So even with the dial set to 5% it will generate that percentage during the 6 hours with the light steady. Unlike the Intellichlor System. The Power Unit know to make only 5% output. I do have a coaching site that I use through Patreon. Haven't thought of video support but I do Text and Phone Support.
I have an IC40 and am in the market to replace my Hayward Max Flow II 1hp 1.25sf pump. I am thinking of just adding one of the century VS motors but am now wondering if there is a savings to had if i have to turn the VS pump up to 2000rpm? Are you still seeing saving from VS motors with saltsystems? Do you ever run the VS pump lower allowing the flow switch to turn off? Just trying to understand the optimal way to run a VS to get savings but produce enough chlorine.
The best VS Pump for a pool with a Salt System is the Jandy 2.7 HP FloPro. It has a built-in AUX relay so you can wire the salt cell from a power source to the back of the pump. If the RPM is below 1800 RPM the salt cell will remain off. Once the RPM gets above 1800 RPM the salt cell will turn on. It is the only VS pump currently that can do this. ua-cam.com/video/DshEnnpQVrk/v-deo.html
@@SPL Thank you for the link. If i cheaped out would the idea be to run the VS pump at the lowest that would keep the SWC cell on, whenever the pump is running? Any harm in settiing lower RPM and just leaving the no flow light on the SWC?
I would say to run it at least at 1900 RPM that way the water is flowing and chlorine is being produced. There is not much difference in electricity savings from 1400 RPM to 1900 RPM in reality.
Yes. If you run your 2 HP pump at 1900 RPM for 8 hours a day that is .65 cents and running a single speed 2 HP pump for 8 hours at 3450 RPM is $3.75 a day ($238.00 a year vs $1,355.22). It is due to the extreme wattage difference.
ok, i drained out probably over half of my pool so i can fill back up to dilute. I filled and been running my pump for 3 days and the display shows the salt level at 4000 ppm. I checked with strips and i bought a digital salt meter. The strips measured around 2700, and the meter measured 2400. Now not sure why my aquarite display shows so much higher? please help!
I have the hayword aqua rite salt system, it shows check salt and when tested at pool store we are told we have 3100. Also, it will not show any chorine level. The owner of pool store said it could be because it is working to hard. Have my dial at 50%. Any suggestions.
what if you have a customer and they dont want you to clean the salt cell? over time will the calcium close up the plumbing line and restrict flow throughout the pool? just asking because i have a customer that hasnt had thier cell cleaned in about 4 years and everything seems to be fine still.
It just depends on the cell and the amount of calcium in the water in your area. Ecomatic Cells have been known to cause flow issues and pipe clogs. You may just want to remove it to prevent this. If it is a Hayward AquaRite you can put this pipe in and remove the cell -Straight Pipe Placeholder - Dummy Cell For Turbo Cell - GLX-CELL-PIPE
HELP US PLEASE! I have a Hayward aqua rite salt system, my old cell was bought with the house a couple years back, I'm not sure how old the cell was, but it looked old and busted in one spot so we just bought a brand new one today, we turned off everything, we installed the new cell and turned it on, there is no chlorine shooting out into the water, only for a couple seconds when we first turned it on, we have a t9 cell for 25,000 gallons. the aqua rite is reading the salt at 3500 and it says it is generating but we don't see any chlorine being shot into the water, the water looks green and cloudy and we can't see the bottom of the pool. We added 2 jugs of chlorine before buying a new cell, 4 bags of salt, one ph - and one stabilizer, and its still green, we have been battling with this pool since june 1st , its now the 18th ,can you please tell us what we are doing wrong?
@@SPL I forgot to mention that this is the VERY FIRST pool we are operating, SO WE ARE CLUELESS ,lol it is a Hayward sand filter ,so do we just leave the pool to run for 24 hours on filter, and also should we use drain or skimmer or does that even make a difference? I have been searching for answers all over the internet, I read somewhere that phosphates can cause the cell not to produce chlorine, and how would I be able to determine if that's the issue? thank you so much for your help!!!!! :)
Keep in mind that chlorine eats algae but algae will also eat chlorine. It’s a battle and whichever has control will determine the condition of your pool. You are not going to see much chlorine made from the Aqua Rite until you take care of the algae, by shocking the pool. Google how based on the size of your pool amount of liquid chlorine needed. Turn off your AquaRite while doing the shock because the Chlorine it produces is too little compared to the amount of liquid chlorine used for shocking. Until you take care of the algae, turn it on to maintain level of chlorine.
he mentioned chlorine because if you cell stops producing chloring you will need to add liquid chlorine to bring the ppm back up to the needed level untill you can get your cell operating again.
The Salt Generator will convert the Salt in the water into a gas Chlorine. So a salt water pool is technically a chlorine pool - you just don't need to physically add it.
HELP 1 don’t know what’s going on with my pool all of a sudden this spring I keep having low chlorine readings so I crank up my output dial I test the chlorine in the morning the test strip shows bright pink like there’s too much chlorine and then I test again in the afternoon and test strip shows it’s almost out of chlorine what could be going on? My salt is around 3200 I check it with a digital meter and the display so I know the salt is good.
Ok my pool salt level was at 3600 or higher . The board says hi salt level/amps the salt level on the board says 3600 also.. so I drained some water and added water to dilute it.. now after testing water it says 2700 and the board says the same thing.. hi salt/amps so u even replaced the cell but with that it says the same hi salt/amps .. any idea of what's going on ?? Bad electronic parts ???
Hi! I have an issue with mine. It shows green light on power and generating (no other lights) yet when I test my water there is no chlorine :(. Salt shows 3400.
@@SPL I"m having the same issue .. Brand new Hayward Aquarite system. . salt level is 3600, chlorine is 0.5 according to pool store. Have turned up the pump to 2550 a few days ago and still no difference. You mention Conditioner level .. is this the same as Stabilizer? If so, mine is zero. Pool store told me not to worry about that?!?! Can you help please?
Same issue - brand new Jandy SWG cell - green light for flow and salt cell on - salt reads 3.1ppm but leslie’s pool says .05 chlorine - just put in a pound of conditioner - will see if that helps
Will my salt cell generate enough chlorine if I am running my variable speed pump on low? Or does the pump need to be running at higher rpms for the salt cell to produce enough chlorine?
GREAT GREAT Information... explanation clear and one word patience to the listener.. he hits all the points.... worth the few minutes to listen.. Thank you Pool Guy..
Thank you Pool Guy ! You answered many of my questions, and touched on many other points about these salt cells !!
Hello, I have a 26,000 gallon pool. I have a Pentair ic40. Last week my salt and chlorine was all good when I opened my pool. This week my pool is cloudy and my cell generator was flashing red and green on the salt level. It was red to clean it so I cleaned it even though there was no calcium buildup. I then put it back together and I pushed more for three seconds to reset it. A bunch of lights flashed and when it was finished the salt level was still red and green flashing and now the flow light is red. The water in the pump is flowing good, it is flowing good in the pool, I took it apart and lubed it on both ends and put it back together. It screwed back together easily. I emptied the basket. And I back washed. The red flow light is still on. I have the salt checked again and it was good. The generator is five years old and only runs from mid May until the end of September. I replaced the flow valve three years ago
There is no chlorine reading
Sounds like a bad flow sensor again.
Just came across your video. I have a saltwater pool and everything was fine with it clear and everything. But my wife took a water sample to pool store and we had to add acid, and calcium hardness. But about 3 days later the water was cloudy. My wife took another sample and the pool guy pulled up our old pool which was 6000 gal instead of the 30,000 gal we have now. He said we should put it twice has much chems than we did. So they gave her the chems we needed and the instructions. The 1st step they said to do is put 5 lbs of shock then 1/2 bottle of Stop Yellow. My wife did that. Then the guy said wait 48 hrs to put the other 5lbs of shock in the pool, but my wife says the pool looks worst. She said she noticed that there was a message on the screen that said chlorinator off no flow, which we are running the super chlorinator. I haven't check the T-15 CELL, But I know it needs cleaning. Any suggestions
It's possible the chemical you added for the calcium hardness is clouding up the water, along with all of that shock. Give it a few days to clear and I think you will be fine.
Ok! This morning I cleaned the Tcell, checked all the fuses and I backwashed. The Chlorinator off no flow went away and when I went to the diagnostic menu Flow Switch says flow. So maybe the T Cell needed cleaning but there was no Service light saying Tcel needed service.
I have noticed with the Pentair cells, after I acid wash them the entire cell is clean except for one little area. This area is completely covered in calcium, and all the other discs are clean. I don't want to keep acid washing it with most of the cell clean, just to get a small about off. I try spraying it with the garden hose, but the calcium does not come off.
It shouldn't affect the production at all.
I have an intext sand fliter and saltwater system for my above ground pool. It's been about 2 weeks and I only added 80 lbs of salt for 4500 gal of water. My pool is 15×48. The water is very clean, I run it 8 hours a day, but I've noticed that the water is becoming a little cloudy. I do not see calcium build up in the cell yet. I also do not want to add chemicals because I have children who are using the pool. Is the chlorine produced by the salt system the same as chemical chlorine? I will have a friend check my water tomorrow. Watched your video about using the BBB method. I want to use as less chemicals as I can, but I wouldn't want to compromise the children's health with dirty pool water. I've learned so much watching your videos, thank you for all your hard work!
Thanks for the great feedback. Yes, test the pool water and add some chlorine if needed. It sounds like maybe the salt system is not producing. From my calculations you are about 40 lbs short on salt - probably why it is not producing.
Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To -MrDgvb1
Thank you, I thought I was short on salt. Will test soon, greatly appreciate your reply!
I have the Saltron generator. 3 days running and no cholrine reading for a 13,000 gal. pool. It's rated for 20,000 gal. Salt level is 3400 within range. Thanks.
How long is the salt system running and what is the output set at? Also, is there any Conditioner in the water?
@@SPL Now it's 4 days. I added 2 cups of shock and filled the floating duck with cholrine tablets. It rained about 45 minuts after I added. The Ph & salt levels are in range. No conditioner. I did add acid to bring the Ph down. Ph is 7.5 and still no cholrine as of 15:30 hrs. 04/15/2019. I will add 2 more cups of shock. Water is clear. Thank you!
With phosphates my salt cell stop producing clorine.. after I put phosphate remover it magically comes back. Yesterday I put a calcium remover product and now I have zero clorine..!! Any recommendations? I washed filter, and cleaned in acid/water the salt cell
bought a home with an old hayward goldline. The configuration menu shows T -5 and T-15 only. no number 9. yet there is a T925 salt cell installed at the moment.
should i swap the salt cell to a one of the T-5,T15.
thanks in advance.
If it is working I would leave it alone.
Cell green light will not stay on. Salt and pool math is all great other than dropping chlorine level because the cell wont stay green. The cell will illuminate green for a few minutes once you turn the sanitation % amount up but then will go right back off to no color light at all. Cell is only 7 months old. Help!!
I have a Jandy TruClear.. what's the main reasons for this model?
Low salt level is the biggest along with low CYA in the pool.
Excellent info my friend.Thank you very much.
I think undamaged mine with acid for to long. The stuff I bought was weak, normally it would fix but didn't. So I let it stand overnight as it was taking way longer than the typical half hour to clean it up. Well my salt levels are good, chemistry is good. But water sample shows no chlorine.
You may need a new cell. The pool store can test your salt cell if you bring it in.
@@SPL it's not the cell. Guy replaced board and it said 2800 but not generating. So I tried to recalibrate, but when you wait for the click before you hit diagnostic button. It doesn't click. Now it says -0. What does it mean when it doesn't click? Or how do I get it going
I have a 16 by 4 ft. I have an intex salt machine. It says low salt but I took water sample to a pool store n it's actually high. Right now I put vinegar n left it overnight. Hopefully it work.
This is very informative. We just had a 16,000 gallon pool installed a few weeks back. Salt was added about two weeks ago, and was being maintained by the pool installers pool guy. I bought a Sutro to test the levels. I started getting the readings today with low chlorine levels. Salt cell is rated for a 40,000 and has been running 100%. After listening to this it seems maybe our SWG hasn’t been running long enough. We have a variable pump I believe but was told not to mess with the scheduling. Any tips to figure out what to do?
Run your pool at the full 3450 RPM - 100% speed and salt output at 100%. Test and see. At those setting the system should make about 1 lbs of chlorine which should raise the chlorine level up to a high level. Also make sure you have about 80 ppm of Cyanuric Acid in the pool.
Do you have somebody you can recommend to service my Acura plus system Kissimmee Florida.
Mi-acid reserve tank it's not running and a half to be adding salt to a pool check system light is on and also the inspect the cell.
I have a 10,000 gallons in ground pool and Aqua Rite control panel. The cell went bad and ended up with high amp/salt level (6,400 ppm). I drained half of the pool and replaced with fresh water. My system still sending the high amp/salt level. The salt level is still saying 6,400 ppm. What could be the cause of getting this bad reading?
The cell or board is bad.
My salt water chlorinator is working intermittently. I have 5 green led lights from 0 to 100%.I have it turned to 100% which should light up the 5 leds.Sometimes it does and sometimes only 1 led is lit.
My pool has perfect water chemistry with slightly high chlorine reading as I super shocked it due to algae.My pool salt is over 6,000ppm.
Recommendations are minimum 5000ppm optimum 6,000ppm and max 6,500ppm.
Could the chlorinator cell not be making chlorine as the salt level may be higher than 6,500ppm thus sometimes showing only 1 led when set at MAX Chlorine?
Thanks for any help.
How long does it take for the system to generate enough chlorine for a 22x22 foot pool? Intex salt water system and Intex agp pool.ty
We just hooked up our salt generator a few days ago. Within the first hour the display was reading 2800 while I was mixing salt. The next day it read 0000 and that is all it has read since. It is producing no chlorine. What can I do to fix it? It’s literally brand new.
Which brand is it? Maybe call the manufacturer and see if you have a dud unit. It does happen.
Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To - SPL the brand is Blue Works.
Thank you for the good information on salt water pools. My husband and I have diffrent ideas on what is going on with our salt water pool. It is only 2 years old and the pass year I have something that is swimming in my pool They are tiny black things, but boy can they swim!!!!!!!!! Im afraid to swim in the pool. They make wakes like a boat in the water...... I thought I was going crazy and seeing things. I have tried everything to kill them, you name it Ihave done it, but its not working. I look it up and they look like mosquito larvae. Can you help me PLEASE!!!!!!! Thank you, Carol :)
Maybe they are Boatman bugs? ua-cam.com/video/UDNHgSvSAgk/v-deo.html
Thanks for getting back with me but I don’t have them. You can’t hardly see them so tiny. I wish I could send you a video of what I get out of the water and how they swim real good. I’m just sick over it. I put liquid chlorine in the pool and I bought dunks those things that look like donuts nothing seems to work !! 😩
We have had low chlorine readings for a while although we run our pump 24/7. We have been told the cell is gone so we have just replaced it. We have a Aquarite with a T3 cell. The salt reading is at 3300...we set the dial at 50 so the chlorine output is somewhere around 2. The problem is that after a couple of hours the output sets itself to 0. Help please.
I have an intex salt water system and no error codes, indicates everything is working but when I test for chlorine, my test strip is white and NO SIGN OF CHLORINE, why?
Try bringing the CYA level to 80 ppm in your above ground pool.
Just had a new Pentair installed. All chemicals are reading good, all lights are green (flow, salt, cell) on the Pentair but after running at 100% for 48 hours straight it has produced no chlorine. Our pool guy seems out of his depths and is saying it could be a filter needing replacement, but with flow green and it producing literally zero chlorine, could it really be a bad filter doing that much harm?
It could be something as simple as the pool having a very low CYA level. Or some other issue - was it holding chlorine with your previous method before the salt cell was installed?
@@SPL So our CYA number from the water test was 28 PPM. Is that low enough to cause zero chlorine to be present in the pool? I have an automatic pool cover and have been leaving the pool cover closed this whole time. Our pool was fine last year using regular chlorine.
My check cell light is coming on before and after I replacing the Hayward W3T-CELL-15. The panel was not showing accurate salt levels and my pool didn't seem to be generating enough chlorine. I'm trying to purchase another salt generator but I'm having a hard time finding an AguaTrol that can handle 40,000 gallons.
Both CMP and Circupool make a good 60,000 model.
Hi,thank you, great information. I have an aquarite that is not powering up. It comes for 5 secondsand turns off. I just tested the water and salt level is at 1970...way below. Is this reason you beleive it isnt powering up or another issue?
Sounds like maybe a power issue. The salt level should have no effect on the unit powering on or off.
@@SPL thank you so much for your input!
I have an IChlor salt cell that has all green lights on with a 3,000 salt reading . Each week I take a sample of water to be tested at my local Pinch-a-Penny. This week the store manager informed me while my salt level is sufficient, there is no chlorine in the pool. Again, there is no indication from the light system that informs me of a dirty cell. What should I do now?
It could be a number of factors. I would do a 24 hour test. Run the pool at full speed for 24 hours and then check.
Why is My brand new IC40 not generating any chlorine. My salt level is at 3500ppm according to Leslies Pool and my digital meter shows 4000ppm. Flow light is green. Salt indicator light flashes red and green for 5 mins then stays solid red indicating low salt.
There is plenty of salt in there. Might be a defective cell at this point.
I have a Pentair Intellichlor IC20 for my 12,000 gallon pool. The salt it produces is too high at 4500, but it doesn't produce chlorine. It gives us a "Clean Salt Cell" alert. There was buildup and we cleaned it, but we still get the alert. The salt cell is about 5 years old. I was told to check the fuse? Please advise. Thank you!
May be at the end of the cells lifespan.
Hello, I have a Pentair IChlor 30. It has just over 1100 hours on it. It
has quit producing chlorine.When I put it in Diagnostic Mode, the
voltage is only reading 20.1 volts. Of what I've seen and heard, the
voltage has to be at least 22 volts for it to work correctly. Any ideas
as to why the voltage is only 20.1 volts?
Sounds like it may still be under the warranty period. I would suggest calling Pentair as that is an odd issue.
My Hayward salt and cell light are on steady. I replaced the cell, ran it at 100 percent (t9), and it still isn’t generating chlorine. Salt level is at 3100, so it’s good. I also replaced the flow valve. Still no chlorine. Purchased and replaced the motherboard, and it had no power at all. So I purchased a new display board, and it still has no power. I Sent the motherboard back and put the old one back on and the power on display operating, but the salt and cell lights are still on. Any suggestions? I got the system in 2017.
How long are you running the pool? Try running it for 24 hours straight and see if the chlorine holds. Also, your CYA level should be 5080 ppm.
Noticed my Hayward aquarite system had a low salt message of 2600 ppm. I’m in the north San Diego area could all the rain we’ve had lowered my salt level? How did my salt level drop?
It could be diluted from all the rain. Clean the cell first and see if that corrects the PPM reading before adding more salt.
I have the Aqua Trol system and have a brand new Salt Cell and also have a very well maintained box. We have high salt level and have drained half the pool and plus rain water and it’s still ridiculously high. Is there a better way to lower the salt level?
Draining is the only way. I would have the salt level verified again just to be sure it is accurate.
What should i do if the sanitizing outputs leds dont turn on.. sometimes they come on but go off again.. pool runs 24/7
If the cell is not set to 100% output it is normal for it to turn off ever so often.
I have a 25,000 gallon salt water pool. My pool is not producing chlorine. I dip my tester in and everything reads great except free chlorine., I have 0 chlorine. My SWG has 2 green lights which is good. I cleaned my Hayward T-cell last year when I closed my pool. If it had calcium build up then my SWG would have a red dot telling me to clean my cell, right? My local company tells me to keep adding pool shock. I have added 4 cases of shock in 2 weeks. I need assistance as to how do I know if my SWG is working properly as well as the salt cell. I have a Hayward Aqua Rite. My SWG reads 4200 salt which I think is inaccurate. I have added 7 bags of salt along with the shock. The water is clear. I believe the cell is about 4 years old. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like the cell is not producing chlorine. 4 years is about the lifespan of that cell in a pool your size.
Thanks. Any thing I should know before I change my cell? Once I get my new cell, is their anything I must do to program the new cell in the SWG? Or is it as simple as putting the new cell on and I am good for the next 3-4 summers?
Hi, what do you know regarding off brand cells. i bought a calimar salt cell for my aquarite system with 3yr warranty for my hayward. my hayward just died after 4 yrs at 100%. input please. hayward cells are very expensive.
I've heard they work pretty well. If the price point is that much better I don't see a reason not to buy one.
@@SPL thanks for your help and great audio! I bought a salt meter. Should I buy a cyanuric acid kit? I can get the Pentair for $25 shipped. Also should I use a liquid pool test kit or strips? I just don't know.
I have a brand new Hayward swimpure extreme 40k put on my 11k gallon pool. I have the dial down to 5% but for some reason the display always says generating salt when I spot check it. The pump runs 6 hours a day. Does this sound defective? Also have you ever considered offering virtual pool diagnostics for a fee? You could use FaceTime/Skype to troubleshoot with people all remotely. I’d be interested if you were willing. Thanks!
I think that light will always be on - it only has two toggle points - generating and flashing indicating a problem. So even with the dial set to 5% it will generate that percentage during the 6 hours with the light steady. Unlike the Intellichlor System. The Power Unit know to make only 5% output. I do have a coaching site that I use through Patreon. Haven't thought of video support but I do Text and Phone Support.
Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To -MrDgvb1 I’m interested! Can you send me info/details please and thank you!
Sure. I have quite a few homeowners in the group already. You can learn more and sign up here: www.patreon.com/user?u=4251655
Do you have somebody that can find time the aqua plus system. My acid tank acid modular is not running
Off hand no one I know is in that area.
I have an IC40 and am in the market to replace my Hayward Max Flow II 1hp 1.25sf pump. I am thinking of just adding one of the century VS motors but am now wondering if there is a savings to had if i have to turn the VS pump up to 2000rpm? Are you still seeing saving from VS motors with saltsystems? Do you ever run the VS pump lower allowing the flow switch to turn off? Just trying to understand the optimal way to run a VS to get savings but produce enough chlorine.
The best VS Pump for a pool with a Salt System is the Jandy 2.7 HP FloPro. It has a built-in AUX relay so you can wire the salt cell from a power source to the back of the pump. If the RPM is below 1800 RPM the salt cell will remain off. Once the RPM gets above 1800 RPM the salt cell will turn on. It is the only VS pump currently that can do this. ua-cam.com/video/DshEnnpQVrk/v-deo.html
@@SPL Thank you for the link. If i cheaped out would the idea be to run the VS pump at the lowest that would keep the SWC cell on, whenever the pump is running? Any harm in settiing lower RPM and just leaving the no flow light on the SWC?
I would say to run it at least at 1900 RPM that way the water is flowing and chlorine is being produced. There is not much difference in electricity savings from 1400 RPM to 1900 RPM in reality.
Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To - SPL Perfect but I am assuming between 1900 and 3400 there is a substantial savings?
Yes. If you run your 2 HP pump at 1900 RPM for 8 hours a day that is .65 cents and running a single speed 2 HP pump for 8 hours at 3450 RPM is $3.75 a day ($238.00 a year vs $1,355.22). It is due to the extreme wattage difference.
ok, i drained out probably over half of my pool so i can fill back up to dilute. I filled and been running my pump for 3 days and the display shows the salt level at 4000 ppm. I checked with strips and i bought a digital salt meter. The strips measured around 2700, and the meter measured 2400. Now not sure why my aquarite display shows so much higher? please help!
It could be that the cell is dying. Usually when the cell is going bad it will give a false high salt reading.
@@SPL -----No pool guy, my salt cell is brand new. I just bought the calimar brand cell. your saying it could be bad?
I have the hayword aqua rite salt system, it shows check salt and when tested at pool store we are told we have 3100. Also, it will not show any chorine level. The owner of pool store said it could be because it is working to hard. Have my dial at 50%. Any suggestions.
Try cleaning the cell to see if that gets the check salt light off.
what if you have a customer and they dont want you to clean the salt cell? over time will the calcium close up the plumbing line and restrict flow throughout the pool? just asking because i have a customer that hasnt had thier cell cleaned in about 4 years and everything seems to be fine still.
It just depends on the cell and the amount of calcium in the water in your area. Ecomatic Cells have been known to cause flow issues and pipe clogs. You may just want to remove it to prevent this. If it is a Hayward AquaRite you can put this pipe in and remove the cell -Straight Pipe Placeholder - Dummy Cell For Turbo Cell - GLX-CELL-PIPE
oh how cool never seen one of those before. that would make it very easy to take out the old cell and plumb that in place of it.
HELP US PLEASE! I have a Hayward aqua rite salt system, my old cell was bought with the house a couple years back, I'm not sure how old the cell was, but it looked old and busted in one spot so we just bought a brand new one today, we turned off everything, we installed the new cell and turned it on, there is no chlorine shooting out into the water, only for a couple seconds when we first turned it on, we have a t9 cell for 25,000 gallons. the aqua rite is reading the salt at 3500 and it says it is generating but we don't see any chlorine being shot into the water, the water looks green and cloudy and we can't see the bottom of the pool. We added 2 jugs of chlorine before buying a new cell, 4 bags of salt, one ph - and one stabilizer, and its still green, we have been battling with this pool since june 1st , its now the 18th ,can you please tell us what we are doing wrong?
You have to run the pool 24 hours straight and also clean the filter - if it is not a sand filter.
@@SPL I forgot to mention that this is the VERY FIRST pool we are operating, SO WE ARE CLUELESS ,lol it is a Hayward sand filter ,so do we just leave the pool to run for 24 hours on filter, and also should we use drain or skimmer or does that even make a difference? I have been searching for answers all over the internet, I read somewhere that phosphates can cause the cell not to produce chlorine, and how would I be able to determine if that's the issue? thank you so much for your help!!!!! :)
Get a pool guy why risk a $20,000+ investment if your clueless.
Keep in mind that chlorine eats algae but algae will also eat chlorine. It’s a battle and whichever has control will determine the condition of your pool. You are not going to see much chlorine made from the Aqua Rite until you take care of the algae, by shocking the pool. Google how based on the size of your pool amount of liquid chlorine needed. Turn off your AquaRite while doing the shock because the Chlorine it produces is too little compared to the amount of liquid chlorine used for shocking. Until you take care of the algae, turn it on to maintain level of chlorine.
My aquarium power and generating light flashes on for 30 seconds and then turns off. What can cause that ?
Not sure on that one. Maybe call the manufacturer.
Dirty filter
Wait if it's a salt water system why did you mention chlorine but I heard something like this before I just don,t understand
he mentioned chlorine because if you cell stops producing chloring you will need to add liquid chlorine to bring the ppm back up to the needed level untill you can get your cell operating again.
The Salt Generator will convert the Salt in the water into a gas Chlorine. So a salt water pool is technically a chlorine pool - you just don't need to physically add it.
Ok thanks now I understand great vid👍
HELP 1 don’t know what’s going on with my pool all of a sudden this spring I keep having low chlorine readings so I crank up my output dial I test the chlorine in the morning the test strip shows bright pink like there’s too much chlorine and then I test again in the afternoon and test strip shows it’s almost out of chlorine what could be going on? My salt is around 3200 I check it with a digital meter and the display so I know the salt is good.
Check the cyanuric acid level
It may be too low, if the cya level is too low then the chlorine will not stick around long especially in the summer
Ok my pool salt level was at 3600 or higher . The board says hi salt level/amps the salt level on the board says 3600 also.. so I drained some water and added water to dilute it.. now after testing water it says 2700 and the board says the same thing.. hi salt/amps so u even replaced the cell but with that it says the same hi salt/amps .. any idea of what's going on ?? Bad electronic parts ???
Oh sorry the salt level in the board HAS NOT changed still at 3700
If it is an AqauLogic System the board may be bad.
Hi! I have an issue with mine. It shows green light on power and generating (no other lights) yet when I test my water there is no chlorine :(. Salt shows 3400.
What is the Conditioner CYA level?
@@SPL I"m having the same issue .. Brand new Hayward Aquarite system. . salt level is 3600, chlorine is 0.5 according to pool store. Have turned up the pump to 2550 a few days ago and still no difference. You mention Conditioner level .. is this the same as Stabilizer? If so, mine is zero. Pool store told me not to worry about that?!?! Can you help please?
Same issue - brand new Jandy SWG cell - green light for flow and salt cell on - salt reads 3.1ppm but leslie’s pool says .05 chlorine - just put in a pound of conditioner - will see if that helps
Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To - SPL what should the Conditioner CYA level be ?
Will my salt cell generate enough chlorine if I am running my variable speed pump on low? Or does the pump need to be running at higher rpms for the salt cell to produce enough chlorine?
Needs to run over 1800 RPM to even turn on. Then try running it at a high speed for 8 hours to see if any chlorine is produced.
@@SPL Thank you! This is why I'm not producing any chlorine. I'm turning it up right now.
What to do when salt is too high?
Drain the pool partially. Usually 2 ft around the pool perimeter.
If it says high salt but still cloudy
High salt means that it is not producing chlorine. What is the salt level?