I Made My Dream Coat
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- Опубліковано 26 чер 2024
- When I started sewing 5 years ago, I dreamt of sewing a fancy wool coat from scratch, with a self-drafted pattern mind you. Well ... goal achieved!
This is the story of how I went about making my overcoat.
I start with pattern drafting. I used my basic shirt block and evolved it into a coat pattern. Then, I made a sample using a light cotton twill and acetate lining. Finally, I picked up a soft wool fabric for the outside and a satin lining on the inside. There were many trials and tribulations, but I learned a lot and I am proud of the final coat.
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Watch Part 1: • I'm learning how to ma...
Watch Part 2: • Drafting a Coat Patter...
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00:00 - Introduction
00:34 - Pattern Drafting
04:49 - Pattern Cutting
06:28 - Outer Shell
09:15 - Lining
10:56 - Collar
13:49 - Bottom Vent
15:20 - Finishing Details
16:30 - The Finished Coat
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#sewing #menswear #mensfashion
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Music:
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The “problems” you faced in making your coat were very helpful in showing us how to resolve similar issues ~ The final result was fabulous! Thank you for such fun, informative and well made tutorials!
I am glad to hear that my video was of use to you. Indeed I also learn the most from mistakes. Thanks for watching.
I need to tell you that this video made me feel so much better about my sewing, because I thought I'm the only one struggling so much and that it's because I'm talentless and didn't go to school to learn sewing. By struggling I mean that nothing comes out perfect the first time. That there are always mistakes that I see and that it takes ages and lots of swearing and back pain to create a good pattern. While I learned sewing from my grandmother who indeed was a professional and she does everything well the first time - she doesn't need to measure and pin everything - I know, it's experience, but I thought if I'm not THAT then I should just stop. In this video I can see how much effort it took you to create this coat, unlike on a 60 second Tiktok video. I really appreciate it and it's very interesting to watch. Btw. I sometimes sew for my fiancee from your videos and the clothes turn out amazing and he keeps asking for more :)
First, what a lucky fiancee you have. I wish I had someone to make me clothes too :)
Jokes aside, thank you for sharing your struggles. It isn't easy to achieve what we desire when it comes to sewing ... or life. Human bodies are complex and fitting for each one of us is a unique challenge. I am happy to hear that you are keeping at it.
Thanks for watching and commenting, I appreciate it.
Yo tampoco fui a la escuela...aprendí con un libro y con mucho interés de ser muy fina en todo lo que hacía.
Solo fui dos años a la escuela fui huérfana y mi vida solo fue trabajo... bendiciones en tu vida
I can relate to your story. I struggle so much to get things even decent looking. I'm very harsh in self critique!
Good for you. You have a right to be proud of your work.
I am a 53 Year old man that has absolutely no sewing or Tailoring experience but I have a very strong desire to learn. My friends say i am to old to start this but I only want to make clothes for me and take it from there
Well, I am here to tell you that you can do it! All you have to do is sit down at your sewing machine and get started. From there, you make your first stitch. Then, just keep taking the next step and before you know it, you've got all sorts of awesome garments for yourself
You're never too old to learn. Tell the naysayers to go suck a lemon.
Perhaps you could start your journey by cutting a T shirt in half vertically, then pinning each half to your material of choice, then cut those out. The, with right sides together, sew them.
It's like puzzle pieces. It takes time and patience. You'll do fine.
I learned on my own by getting a simple pattern ( sometimes you can even thrift them as they are quite expensive) then learn the sewing terms. If you have a chance to take some beginner courses I highly recommend that. I also thrift fabric as the price of that is very expensive. That way as you are learning you won't be so troubled if it isn't perfect and don't give up. There are so many tutorials to help with every stage of your journey.
Im a 52 year old man who had almost no sewing experience till last year.
I just finished a first attempt at a waistcoat and next is a frock coat.
Your not too old. (No one is...)
You have a narrow minded friend. I am 58 man who also just sews for myself mainly. I just started a couple years ago and love the messy challenge- if your friend don’t like it then in the inspiration of the soup Nazi… NO SHIRT FOR YOU! 😜😝
Oh wow this is amazing! Your pattern is near perfect, the fit is soooo good 👍. I'm a men's tailor so I know what I'm talking about. You seem to be very into the shape and style of the garments, which is very interesting in itself. However, if you want to dive into more classic tailoring I suggest you look into "turn of cloth". A thick fabric like this needs a lot of fabric "to turn" so for example the upper collar needs to be significantly bigger than the under collar. I can see the under collar peeking out, when in proper tailoring it should be invisible. Also, the amount of extra lining fabric above the vent, well in this type of fabric I would go for 10-15 cm! This is because the wool stretches and moves with the body and the lining doesn't so it needs to be a lot bigger. This is in no way meant as criticism, you've created a beautiful coat that fits you perfectly 😍. (Some of us go all nerdy with all the details of tailoring, some of us don't. Whatever floats your boat is perfectly fine.) I'm definitely subscribing and looking forward to upcoming projects!
Thank you for the kind words and I really appreciate the feedback. I am entirely self-taught and don't know the industry terms so it's good to hear them from a professional. I use mostly my own made of phrases.
You're the first person who has pointed out the collar. After I made it, I realized that it didn't look quite right and so looking at my bough coat, I noticed that they used lightweight wool on the underside and it was "turned in" as you say. I am striving for excellence so I appreciate your feedback.
As for the vent, I thought I was already adding a lot by adding an extra inch or 2, so knowing you do even more is good to know.
Thanks again for watching and sharing your thoughts.
Let it never be said that sewing, drafting and designing are drama-free pursuits. In fact, there’s a mixture of both joy and tension even in the easiest of projects. Very well done C. A beautifully designed and drafted coat. You are a man who doesn’t give up. 💙
Preach! I'm happy to hear I am not the only one who experiences the challenges. I was feeling quite tested by the thick fabric of this final coat. It all felt new again. Nice to hear from you and thanks for watching.
This is one of those videos that deserve more than just one thumbs up. Great accomplishment!
How kind of you. Thank you!
Love the coat. I admire all the work that was put into making it.
I love the design and the placement of the pockets. No way you could find it in anything store bought. I love that about sewing. It's besoke to what you like and need.
My one critique would be on the collar and lapels. You can see the seam on them and it should be hidden underneath. To make that possible, you usually cut the facing on the lapel part a bit larger and the undercollar a bit smaller, so that it pulls on the outer collar and hides the seam. Not sure I'm explaining it well. You can read about 'turn of cloth'. It becomes more important, the thicker the fabric you're using is.
Congratulations! Beautiful piece! What I always find amazing with your wardrobe adittions is the fact that the bespoke measurements, like your shoulder taper or arm size, make it appear perfectly symmetrical. The eye is tricked so well by your cuts not warping or hanging wrong - chef's kiss for your sewing!
You are kind, thank you! I do like to put too much effort into the little details. I am glad you hear you appreciate these sorts of things too. Thank you for watching and chiming in.
Commenting as I’m watching the video so you get more interaction from the algorithm
You're out here doing hero's work!
How DARE you try to make the world aware of this man’s work by making such a ludicrous comment?!! I DEMAND you engage in an argument with me in the comments to further feed the algorithm overlords.
@@LeviShores I’m elaborately appalled that you didn’t use ANY, Not ONE single adjective to describe the quality of his content or work. I’m calling the FBI right now to report you to the appropriate authorities.
Amazing. Voluminous. Authoritative. Bespoke. Egalitarian. Cool. There, are you happy you troglodicious queef? I know my adjectives, and I happily distinguish them from my adverbs. Cornelius feeds my required if-you-can’t-make-it-in-an-apocalypse-you-don’t-deserve-it itch, and I can’t get enough of it.
@Chiefqueef @Levi Shores, the real MVPs.
Beautiful coat, beautiful human . I so appreciate your process when trying to show my grandchildren how to make any thing. So, a tip from gramma. Use the seam ripper bead towards the fabric. The long leg is for picking out a couple threads to open a spit for the bead side. I have had to hide a few cuts so hard way, learned . Do watch. Some video on the why of tailoring a coat. Might find some interesting things there, reducing bulk areas, strengthening others, shoulders pads ( not 8o’s) but to firm up the profile and you can make them different thicknesses Then “bag” the lining. Not attaching it the whole way across the bottom. Hemming separately the providing attachment loops. Helps with fit and comfort. There is a historical costuming video on how sleeves were set it which just makes so much sense. I wish I had these links for you. I learned to sew from my grandmother and she still leans over my shoulder. Helping me. Good luck I will keep watching.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with myself and others in the comments here. 🙏🏻 I'm always looking to learn more so I'll search for the resources you mention.
Appreciate that you show your revisions…thank you for sharing…beautifully done
Thank you, I'm glad you appreciate it and thanks for watching.
This video is so inspiring! I am amazed about how much patience you have and able to perfect the same pattern again and again. I am often upset if my piece does not look as I planned. I can give up easily,
What you don't see in the video is how many times I too was frustrated. At least you know yourself, I guess :) Thanks for watching.
it’s been so great to see your sewing progress! :) the coat looks awesome
Thank you, I feel like I've come a long way. Thanks for watching!
I do enjoy your videos. It must feel really good to be something that fits so perfectly that you have made yourself. The challenge now is to maintain the body shape that fits the coat.
PS I have a camel coat tailored on Saville Row in 1978 that I still wear. It had to be adjusted slightly as it seemed to have shrunk around the middle :) but still fits well. A point I was asked when it was being made was "do I wear the collar up?", If I wore it up (which I do only very rare occaisions when the weather demands it) then the underside of the collar is made from the same fabric as the back of the coat. On my jackets (always worn collar down) there is a lighter material on the collar underside .
Keep it going you are an inspiration
Oh nice! May the coat live on for another 40+ years :) Thank you for sharing a bit about yourself. It's great to get to hear about the folks watching my content. Thank you.
The coat turned out beautifully. That lining fabric is gorgeous, and I love the fit. I understand your frustration with the lining. I hate lining costs. Great work, and very inspiring!
I am glad to hear I am not the only one who has these challenges. We all suffering together :) Thank you for the kind words and thank you for watching.
That is my dream! I'm learning so much from you, sir!
You can do it! I believe in you being able to learn :)
Invaluable on so many levels.
Happy to hear it!
Amazing work, the finished product is great. But enough about your video editing skills - that coat is awesome!!
Haha. Well thank you, I am flattered that you appreciate both the project and video :)
Oh my what a beautiful coat. I decided to try sewing again after many years. I took on a tailored shirt ( ladies) for my first project. It was hilarious. White shirt, white interfacing, cuffs with placket, collar with stand, sleeves, button holes, buttons there were times I was so confused I had to watch many UA-cam videos AND I HAD A COMMERCIAL PATTERN to follow. Anyway it turned out wearable and I went on to try a coat a bit like yours. Again with a commercial pattern. It turned out horrible but watching your video I can really see what went wrong and I am going to try again. ( Thankfully I thrifted the fabric so only a lot of time spent). You are a real talent and thank you for the informative and quite amusing video.
Good on you for remaining persistent. Thank you for the kind words and for watching. Happy sewing ... again :)
You have inspired me to sew. I never thought it could be fun but watching you create your own clothes is just wow. Thank you and I wish you the best in your future projects.
I am happy to hear my work is inspiring for you. I hope you do start making your own clothes. I find it quite rewarding!
I love your storytelling and cinematography. It's always relaxing and informative.
I am happy to hear you appreciate my effort. Thank you and thanks for watching.
@@CorneliusQuiring 💙
I've began sewing because I could never find well fitting clothes for my small body and my end goal is to make a coat like that.
Surely I'll come back to this video when I begin the 'making the coat' journey.
Thanks for sharing your journey!
Oh nice. Good no you for taking matters int your own hands. I hope you do indeed make yourself a coat one day.
Yo corn! My Granny (RIP) used to sew a lot and it’s always been an interesting hobby but I haven’t gotten into it. But you have inspired me to! Your videos are fresh, educational, and comical. Plus the production is good.
Well for Granny's legacy alone, I think it'd be wonderful to get into sewing :) Thank you for the kind words about my work and thank you for watching.
@@CorneliusQuiring thank you 🙏 and I will bud
This is a painfully chic coat. It looks sensational on you. Bravo!
You are too kind, I'm blushing. Thank you.
Having started my own quest for the 'perfect jacket' I know the sheer amount of effort and determination it must have taken to create that coat, it's a masterpiece!
You have inspired me to look more into pattern drafting. I've tried to shortcut by combining two patterns I like aspects of, but I'm finding the gap in my understanding of how to re-draft patterns means I'm struggling to make it work. Seeing your ability to rectify issues in the sewing by redrafting is like wizardry compared to where I'm at with it all!!
It's definitely a challenge but I try to see it see it as a whole bunch of really tiny manageable steps stitched together. With enough mistakes and practise, I have full confidence you can figure it out!
That coat fits great. Really great job!
Thank you 🙏🏻
Your coat is perfect!
It is so nice to see your videos, they always bring a smile and new curiosities. And I'm so glad I'm not the only one who takes the long road on the path of learning!
Thank you for the kind words and I'm glad to hear you appreciate my efforts. It's nice to see that others do things similarly.
It's nice to see some of your videos having a bit of success.
Wow - amazing work. Your videos capture the frustration and hours of work that one goes through to create anything (for me) from a costume suit to a full length, tailored men's jacket. I've also learned the value of doing mockups or samples - takes more time but it's better for mistakes to happen there then on "fashion fabrics."
You also inspired me to buy the Winifred Aldrich book "Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear" which I am just delving into. It should be a great resource as (eventually) I want to move from making Cosplay "costumes," to mens' clothing that really fits (like the pieces you have created). Thanks again for the great content.
Well, it sounds like you're keeping yourself real busy! I feel like to struggle to just make my clothes, I can't imagine also making cosplay. Good on you and keep it up!
Gorgeous…. Love the way you share your knowledge and your experience . Keep going !
Hugs from Paris, France !
Philippe, tailor !
Thank you for the kind words. I'm glad you appreciate my content. Thank you for watching and hello back from Toronto, Canada.
Wow! That coat is relly impressive! It fits You very well, nice job :)
Thank you. I appreciate your thumbs up. Thanks for watching.
Interior pockets are a nice touch.
Thank you. I'm glad you think so.
I love your channel, brother
Can not say how much appreciated it is
Thank you, I'm glad you like them. Thank you for watching.
wow! its perfect! congratulations!!!
Thank you and thanks for watching.
And your looking good in it. Well deserved. Congrats👍☺️
Well thank you, I'm blushing :)
Hello Cornelius. Pretty cool. Thank you.
Thank you for watching!
Your seems are very clean. Shoulder insertions are still a pain. Very nicely done.
Thank you. Happy to hear I'm not the only one who has challenges.
the final product looks so great!
Thank you, I'm glad you think so :)
Nicely done!
Thank you.
Yes! You've done it!
Indeed! Thanks for watching.
Great job! Thank you for sharing the whole process!
Thank you for watching!
looks great!
Great work! It’s all in the details!
Thank you. Glad you like it.
Truly great work, both the coat and the video!
You are kind, thank you! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing. I enjoyed watching the process and the considerations you made in what you wanted from this coat.
Thank you! I'm glad you think so. I appreciate you watching my efforts.
You should be so proud!! Beautiful work.
Thank you. I feel accomplished.
This was both entertaining and encouraging. Thank you for this video!
Thank you and thanks for watching. Good luck with all your sewing projects.
That coat is stunning!
🤠🙏🏻
Wow it looks so great corn good job
Thank you, I appreciate the kind words.
congratulation!! amaizing and thank you for sharing your experience!
My pleasure. I appreciate you watching.
Very informative and inspiring me to get into making my own menswear :)
You should do it!
Wow, your coat is stunning!
Thank you, I appreciate the kind words.
Very nice! And I see you did the thing with clipping the curve to fit. Awesome!
When I hear good tips, I sure am going to use them and pass them right along :)
Looks amazing and great craftsmanship.
Thank you sir!
Great job...
Excelent one!
Thx for sharing your work.
Thanks for watching. 🙏🏻
Beautiful work, shows how many little things have to come together to make an entire piece. Great job for showing the mistakes!
I'm glad to hear you appreciate my efforts. Thanks for watching. 🙏🏻
OMG....you are wonderful. I love this coat.
Thank you.
Hello, thank you for your good training, please publish the complete tutorial on how to measure the size of a men's coat, along with the complete sewing of a men's coat with appropriate details, as a training course on measuring and sewing a men's coat on UA-cam.
Thanks for watching and I appreciate the suggestion. Yes, one day I will do a full tutorial
beautiful make!
Thank you for watching!
Great intro. It was because I wanted a coat that I got into making my own stuff as well
Oh nice, well I hope you have made or will one day make said coat. Thanks for watching.
I’m so happy I found my bubble and especially you, Cornelius. I started sowing in 2022, messed up a lot in the beginning, but yesterday I finished my first cardigan (Jersey, with zipper, for my 4yo daughter) and I am very happy with it! I have a secret goal similar to yours and you give me the confidence I’ll eventually make it - thank you very much!
oh that's awesome. Good on you for making one for her and may you make everything you desire!
Beautiful!
Thank you. ☺️
Beautiful coat just beautiful
🤠🙏🏻
so proud of you!
I hope someday I'll be able to sew a coat for myself as well
Thank you. I think you can do it!
You are a beautiful man.
Love your channel and your energy.
You are kind. I'm glad you like what I have to offer.
Beautiful work and process! A great reminder that quality garments take time to make. Also love your "more simpler terms" explanation of a misaligned sleeve 😂
You said it better than I could :) I am happy to hear that the joke landed with you and perhaps my best work in the whole video :)
thanks for inspiration
Thanks for watching.
I was hoping that coat was going to appear soon. It looks fabulous..You did good trials and tweaking and it was worth the effort . The adaptions you've made for your body make you you very stylish. I'm starting with a shacket 😄, well after I've made a baby coat ..
I just learned a new word: a shacket. Well good luck with that and the baby coat. You got this!
@@CorneliusQuiring shacket is a shirt made in thick enough fabric to wear as a jacket , sometimes lined 🙂
Amazing!
thank you :)
Outstanding 👍🏻
Thanks.
Great video and Coat! Just found your videos recently and love what your doing. I have a suggestion for you. Next time you pattern a coat you may want to try symmetrical shoulders with asymmetric shoulder pads. this would give a more tailored and polished appearance. This approach gives the illusion of symmetry whilst still fitting to your unique body.
This is a good suggestion and one I hadn't considered. Thank you for watching and for chiming in. I appreciate it.
@@CorneliusQuiring I enjoy historical fashion. Tailoring was the Instagram of Victorian era. Careful tailoring/ padding gives the illusion of perfect body.
Well that's interesting. I learned something new today. Thanks for sharing.
The historic approach: stuff it with padding until it fits!
You are mad talented..
Thank you, you are kind.
Congrats!
Thanks!
Genius... Keep Going...
Thank you. Up, up and away.
Loving this video. Your style is quirky but I love it.
In The last year ive started sewing and the next project is a coat,
Oh nice, good on you for taking up the craft. Happy sewing.
My god that's an excellent coat.
🤠🙏🏻
I have many dream cloths in my mind but always I make mistakes.
Nice!
Thank you :)
Most impressive. A coat is on my short list but I'll be using a commercial pattern. Pattern drafting isn't for me yet.
Oh nice. Well hopefully it turns out as you desire! It's a rewarding project indeed!
Your coat looks warm but it makes you look cool.
You are kind, thank you and thanks for watching.
ITS HEREEEEEERE
wooooot wooot!
but no shoulder pads! I love your drafting tips they are top notch
I'm glad you appreciate the tips. Thanks for watching. 🙏🏻
A long time ago I vented in your comments how I tried making a pair of shorts/pants from scratch and I made like 17 pairs but I kept failing Bc there wasn’t enough fabric to cover the bum. Turns out I’m a dumb dumb and I was sewing the crotch of the pants as the length 🙃 anyways I got it sorted out and super happy about it now
You learned something important thats never going to be forgotten..
@@Lazydaisy646 true! Guess who can make pants from scratch now without needing to look up instructions? Me lol
@@Chiefqueef91 that's a win for sure . Go you ..
I am happy to hear it. Look at you getting better at this sewing thing.
Sublime
Thanks
Did you make “regular “ Button holes for the coat front, or were they bound buttonholes? My machine can’t handle the thickness if heavy fabrics like wool coating ~ and bound buttonholes are a must for me. Loved your buttons too!
I did not do bound buttonholes, but I've been learning about them lately and want to give it a go! Good luck with your coat!
You deserve an industrial machine
I would love one :)
You are a very stylish man
Thank you :)
Your welcome friend
Taking the long road can help you understand *why* things are done the way they are.
Helps you can speak the language, not just parrot the lingo, to use an awkward metaphor.
Well said!
Guess what I am working on... a fkin coat. Wish this fool some luck guys. Imma need it.
I wish you all the luck ... and then some :)
@@CorneliusQuiring Thanks man. Going thru your vids now to find everything I could. Bless your channel lol ~!
What à wonderfull vidéo! I am in the samedi process these days, but watching your video, it seems like you didn't interfaced at all the front panel, the lapel or the back... do you confirm? And would you recommend interfacing? Or you don't feel the need?
I did not interface the panels, correct. I think it is really a matter of preference. I made my coat with really heavy wool fabric and so it sits nicely without needing interfacing to keep its form. If I went with a light fabric, perhaps I would consider it. Good luck with your coat. Let me know how it goes.
Beautiful coat, I have a question, would you make a video ok how to draft the pattern, like you did for the pants? (I know that would be a gigantic task after watching the $1400 shirt video)
I plan to one day make a full proper tutorial on this one day. It may not be any time soon, but at some point, I will. Thank you for your interest.
@@CorneliusQuiring thank you very much for doing all that, I still use the pants(sweatpants) I made with your video, really amazing video, cheers
Oh wonderful.
How do you know what to adjust to get the desired effect? I was putting in some sleeves (my first time) and things were to tight, and not setting well, and I could see what needed to happen from the outside, but when I turned it to the inside, I felt completely lost..... You say things like, I wanted this to move here, so I changed it and, Viola! I'm like, What? How?!
It's really just a case of continual practice and a whole bunch of mistakes. I just try things and see what happens, then try something new based on what I just learned. Many bedsheets gave their lives at my hands in the name of learning. Haha. Yeah, trial and error. It's nice to hear there are other folks such as yourself out there on the same journey.
Could you make a video on creating custom dress shirt patterns?
Im a smaller guy so most second hand button down shirts dont fit. My idea is to buy some of the nice XXL shirts at thrift stores, deconstruct them and then recut them smaller to fit my own pattern. my plan is then to hand stich them back together. I have minimal sewing experience but a lot of free time. Does anyone with more sewing experience see any obvious flaws with this plan?
It seems like you're reading my mind! I have planned over the coming months to do a full video on drafting shirts from scratch.
As for your plan, that can most certainly work. My suggestion would be to rather buy bedsheets at the thrift store as opposed to the shirts. Might even be cheaper! Using XXL shirts will require a lot of mixing, matching and patching pieces together.
@@CorneliusQuiring You rock man! subbed
🙏🏻
Can you put the Turkish language option on your channel, because I have a hard time understanding some sewing terms in English, thanks in advance.
I appreciate the suggestion. I will consider adding subtitles in the future. Thank you for watching.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
I have a McCalls Pattern 7889 it's a children's girl coat pattern and I need to turn it into a boys coat pattern, any advice you can you give on how to alter the pattern so that I can make a coat for my son? The collar, the bottom flare and sleeves need to be adjusted and I have no idea what I'm going to do about it.
Interesting question. I know very little about children's patterns. With that in mind, I think the main difference is boy's/men's clothes tend to be boxier and the buttons close on the other side. I say just go for it and do as you please :)
Hey Cornelius,
@ 06:28 I saw you used two sewing machines! When do u use each type?
If i wanted to make my own coat would I need to buy two machines to save cost?
One machine is a serger (to finish the raw edges) and the other is a regular sewing machine. If you're starting out, use the zig-zag stitch on the regular machine to replace the serger.
Baller music choice
Glad you like it :)