I expect this mower will last several seasons with decent care. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend Also, I ran across the problem with it not starting the 2nd time I used it. There is a safety switch which is pushed in by the chute or mulching piece being attached to the deck. I took the cover off and it wouldn't start. Put it back on, no problem. It takes only a minute with 2 easily accessible wingnuts and no tools. This mower starts up first crank each time and it is a joy to use. It also mows in reverse by putting the key to the reverse area after starting and pushing in the triangular button. It will stay in reverse mode until you turn it off. All in all, for my homeowner needs, I really like this mower-and at 70 bucks a cut here in Miami, it's already more than 1/3 paid for itself in a month.
Great video all these years later! I’m starting a farm and I’m gonna use garden tractors to start. I like how some fords look like the 8000s which is neat
I got a 316 a few months ago been a goal of mine for a few years to get one but I got it needing a lot of work but the way it sits it’s in very good cosmetic shape and needs some mechanical attention but it will get it and I know it’ll be a great tractor and I’m glad to own it!
Very well said sir. One other factor with these older tractors is you can rebuild them if needed and get many, many more years out of them. I've got a 1971 cub cadet 129, what a little tank. It did have a 42 inch rear tiller but I sold the tiller. I also have a 1987 John deere 430 with a deluxe cozy cab. I have the 47 inch snowblower, 48 inch tiller, 4 way 54 inch front blade and a few more items. It gets used year round. I plan on getting a few more garden tractors. So with owning these tractors I have, I can say you are very accurate with this video. When someone calls my 430 a lawn mower I don't get angry just chuckle, they just don't understand. I guess with a dry weight of 1170 lbs. It makes one hell of a "lawn mower" lol. Thanks for the video.
I put a 2" ball mount on my cub cadet lawn mower. I move around my 12' trailer and my wood splitter with that thing. It doesn't like moving the trailer but it gets the job done so I can mow the grass where it sits in the yard. The log splitter it moves easily.
Thanks for the video that 316 reminds me of my cousins 1974 cub cadet and I'll agree 100% with you that you can feel how much weight is in those kind of vehicles and the quality that they used to put into machines, if only they built them like they used to
Man those old Cub Cadets were pretty dang good machines too, not too sure about the new ones though...They do have an XT3 out now that is shaft driven, no belts. I think like $7-8k for it.
Love your video, watched it many times. Would like to add though that the frame on my 317 is just as large as your 316. The 317 had a bad rep for its early KT17 motor. Would throw a rod if operated on hill sides for to long of a period of time. The frame and other components of the tractor were extremely heavy duty and mine still works wonderfully today 👍🏻
This could easily be alternately titled "What did you buy?" coincidentally. I got a mid 80s Toro some weeks ago that I'm having daydreams of fabbing up a dirt pushing blade for leveling a pad (still on the fence) but really bought just to mow. It's built like a tank and weighs about the same, but I doubt it was ever envisioned to have implements added to it, even though it could probably handle it. It does have a belt system but also an actual clutch disc and a 5 speed transaxle and a very solid frame, so we'll call it a 'hybrid'. The clutch was glazed and broken to crap when I got it, so I ended up fabricating a new one from tractor parts and now have the joy/misery of having to worry about doing wheelstands when taking off out of neutral. 😁
i totally agree with everything you are saying. however i have a John Deere X500 GT that i added a sleeve hitch to and then a electric screw jack from johnny products. it works wonders and i have no complaints
Thank you very much for making this video and informing people about such an important topic. Too many people today buy a cheap mower from Home Depot or Lowe's and expect to go pull trees down and till gardens with it. Then they complain when the rear end goes out or the frame cracks. I've owned nearly 20 lawn and garden tractors in the past 10 years and have worked on many different sizes and brands. Considering that some of the old classic garden tractors like your 316 are getting to be 35-40+ years old, they're gonna require a bit more TLC to keep them going...this is why a lot of uninformed homeowners stay away from buying a used machine and will buy a brand new one with a warranty instead; they don't want to buy an old "lemon" that needs work, and they don't want to have to fix a machine when it breaks (let alone find the parts for something that old). In the grand scheme of things, the old garden tractors have lasted 35-40 years easily...with proper maintenance and a steady market for replacement parts, they will go another 35-40. These new machines, especially lawn tractors, will not last that long. If EVERYONE knew how great the old garden tractors were, there would be NO market for the box-store machines...but that isn't the case. The box-store machines continue to bring in millions of dollars in revenue each year, mainly because of their low MSRP and the promising warranties offered by stores like Lowe's, Home Depot, and Tractor Supply. I started out with an LA series Deere from Lowe's and thought it was the greatest thing, while wondering why my uncle never bothered to upgrade from his 30 year old beat-up 318 with over 4000 hours on it. But once I started doing commercial mowing, I found out why. Two years ago I bought my first 316 in mint restored condition and fairly low hours and I fell in love with it, had plans to upgrade to H2 hydraulics and dual brake pedals, but then the machine caught fire. Long story short, we ended up replacing it with a new X570. The X570 is a good tractor and pretty heavy for it's size (arguably the best mowing tractor I have ever used). To an extent, it's nicer than the older tractors because of its creature comforts, stellar cut quality, and fuel efficiency. Plus I can put a sleeve hitch on it if need be. But I still miss having a 300 series. The X570 is a nice dependable (and rugged) machine for the money, but it most likely won't be around in another 40 years. For now, my 40-year-old (belt drive!) JD 210 with hydraulic lift and sleeve hitch (two things you cannot install on a lawn tractor), will do just fine.
I got an X350 ... Going to be doing a lot of work by hand in the coming years building the wife some gardens ... Doing about 50% raised beds, 50% in-ground crops. Just love a JD. Thanks for the video.
You did a great job on this video, explaining the difference between lawn mower and garden tractor. Years ago I bought a Murray that was rated as capable of pulling a one bottom plow with tire chains. It was new in 85 and it did a great job of mowing my 2.5 acres. By the year 2000 it was getting hard to find parts for it. I wanted a John Deere but a good one even used was out of my budget so I bought the little puddle jumper, an MTD which is strictly for mowing grass. The thing that made me desire a John Deere was parts. A parts man told me he didn't care how old it was, he could get parts. Eventually I grew tired of making do with the MTD riding lawn mower which is even smaller than your D model. I took a leap and bought three 200 series at an auction. A 210, 212, and 214. None of them were listed as running but I figured with three of them I should be able to swap parts back and forth and get two of them running. Another fellow on YT had a video of his 212 and I was impressed so when the three of them came up on auction I took the chance. They have the five lug wheels and a very heavy frame so they are true Garden tractors with 23 inch tires.The dry weight is 650 so they are definitely a grade above lawn tractor.
My JD dealer told me the same thing, they have 20+ year old machines that they still have parts in stock for. Why? Because people still run those old machines because they do great work and easy to maintain and repair.
People ask me why so many old Cub Cadets and Wheel Horses are used for competitive pulling rather than John Deere's...I tell them it's because the John Deere's are still out there working hard after 40-50 years! I love all the old garden tractors from back in the day, but when it comes to longevity, reliability, parts availability, comfort/ease of use, and best engineering, John Deere takes the cake, hands down. Like you mentioned William, Deere continues to stock parts for the 30-40-50 year old machines because so many people still use them and they are working just as hard now as they were when they were new.
Good video. Since I work at a fab shop I have beefed up my lawn tractor, Boxed the frame added weight etc. I'm trying to avoid locking up the diff. because I still want maneuverability. We'll see how everthing works out this spring.
I would avoid locking the rear axle. With the 316 in full pull, even with weight on the front and ideal steering tires, I can have a lot of trouble steering in slick conditions (winter). At very least, you will tear up turf.
Yeah that's kinda what I was thinking. And at the end of the day we are only homesteading on a half acre and my tractor's primary job is still mowing considering how we grow weeds here in colo. they are closer to trees.
The only thing wrong with the 317, is the engine had a oil slinger and not a oil pump. My 317 had steering brakes, and duel hydraulic levers. It mowed 5 acres for over 20 years. Great tractor.
@mrusa2038 You people speak as though the oil pump does anything. Splash lubrication is more than adequate as is proven by the ridiculous amount of run hours on millions of splash lubricated components around the world.
Good video. I have a JD112. I made my three point. It's amazing how much that thing will pull. It's only got the one hydraulic circuit but I want to upgrade to three and add a small front end loader.
John Deere 318 is a fantastic machine I have my grandfathers that he purchased new in the 80s. The resale price on them is very high.... and for people not wanting to pay the high price look for a cub cadet 782. Very similar tractor with the same capabilities.
I have a built Ole Massey Ferguson model 7, diesel engine swapped. It gets the job done like a little tractor and Mows my lawn and snowblows my driveway. I've had it for 20 years and it's still runnin strong.
Hey guy, thanks for taking your time to make this video, it was super informative and I really, really appreciate it! A big thanks from up in NH, see ya
Great video. I had an 88 Craftsman GT18, it had the horizontal B&S 18HP 2 cylinder engine. It did in fact have more grunt to it than my 2010 Craftsman YT4000's 24HP 2 cylinder engine. The frame is a hell of a lot smaller, way too much flex to do anything with other than mow a flat lawn. I'm actually looking at a John Deere 380 as a replacement to the YT4000. Unfortunately the GT18's engine failed in 2010, the YT4000's engine just failed last week with only 290 hours on it. The GT18 the hours were unknown as there wasn't an hour meter on it, but it mowed 2 acres for 20 years plus tons of other yard chores so easily over 3,000 hours.
I have a Low's 11 HP TropBilt riding mower. I mow and take out the trash with it and it's great for that. I used to have a 24 HP. Cub Cadet Garden Tractor, very expensive to purchase. . You could not plow snow with it, should of had a front end loader, but I did buy a 30" snow blower for it, and it did ok, but wet snow clogged it up quickly. The Kohler motor was hard starting always. Now I just use the troybilt riding mower with the engine in the back to mow grass and pull my little cart (max of 150 lbs), I plow with my XJ 97 HD Jeep (is awesome) and I get my food from the grocery store, LOL...
Thanks for the input I think I will drive the cub and John Deere and see what I like . I have a 317 for sale close to me so tempting but way more then I need for just mowing .
Check out the Cub Cadet XT3 if you are seriously considering a Cub Cadet. Not sure what it would compare to on the JD line but the XT3 is shaft drive, no belt on the transmission, direct shaft from engine to hydro system.
Nice video! If someone asks me about lawn tractors, I tell them to walk away from anything that doesn’t have actual lug nuts holding the rear wheels on. If it just has a single cap in the center, it’s just a tractor looking lawn mower.
Good review, brings up some good points. Something I've noticed over the years: I have a GT235 and a GT245, both with 54" decks. I love 'em. I picked up the 245 recently because it came with (a), half the hours on the hour meter as my 235, (b) it had a snow blower, and (c) it had an aftermarket cab that'll keep the snow from blowing back in my face. My wife came into her Dad's L130 when her parents passed away a few years ago. All are from the same vintage, around 2005. The L130 has a single-belt drive system, meaning one long belt loops around and drives all the deck spindles, and the L130 has a lighter duty transmission. I believe it's a Tuff Tork K46, and it isn't serviceable by the owner/user. So basicaly, if it croaks, it's done. The GT235 & GT245 both have a main drive belt that drives an upper pulley on the deck's center spindle, and then a separate serpentine belt that drives all 3 spindles. I believe this gives the operator a much smoother, vibration-free ride. Probably not a big deal if you're mowing 1/4 acre, but with 3 acres +, like me, it's a big deal. Also the transmission is a heavier duty transmission, and it IS serviceable by the owner/user. When in doubt, check the owner's manual before you plunk down your money.
I was looking at getting a ford lgt 16d lawn mower for bit mowing and some heavier duty work. But right know I have a john deere la125 lawn mower that gets used for more than what its supposed to.
They do, the X700 series. But you can find yourself a nice lower hour X475 or above and have locking differential, full hydraulics for front plow and rear tiller/blade, 3-point hitch capabilities, etc. A more modern heavy duty garden tractor that still mows great.
Your video was perfect honestly for me I find my self just needing a lawn tractor because I have a half an acer and I use my tractor which is a 1990 John derre 170 for mowing, hauling small things,sweeping leaves, and driving around the property to check on things. P.S. I do have a fenced in garden but I can't fit a garden tractor in there anyways haha
I bought the Craftsman T240 paid $2,300 with out tax at lowes it's a cross between a Lawn/Garden tractor according to a craftsman Rep so I have a little of both worlds and i have seen garden tractors with no lug nuts...the craftsman T240 comes with the Kohler KT725 22 horsepower 725cc V Twin 7000 series Engine it comes with a 3 year unlimited hours warranty and the warranty covers commercial use also
I agree with you on a lot of things you mentioned but As far as weight goes you said 800 pounds minimum, I’ve ran machines that were 500lbs with lug tires and I was able pull a ripper through rocky, hard Missouri soil. I’m currently running a case 224 with turf tires on it 715lbs dry and it pulls just fine. I’ve never had a three point just to expensive, but I’ve gotten along fine with a hydraulic lift or on my 500lb machine electric sleeve hitch. Sleeve hitches are easier to build attachments and easier and cheaper to find em. Great video, just had some different experiences/opinions than you. Stay safe and God bless!
I think every homesteader no matter how big or small should have a ''compact tractor'', I have a kubota bx myself but as long as it has a 3 point hitch, hydraulic hookups on the front, and a live pto in the middle for mowing and on the back for implements. You would not believe how many jobs and chores I'm able to tackle with my little 3 cylinder diesel kubota and I mow probably 3 acres with her every week.
Passed on the 318 to large for my situation but I did find a old 108 in great condition have used it a couple of times and I really like it everything working great just have to order a new muffle . It has a 8 hp Briggs 30 inch mower which is really hard to find a small deck . I like the old stuff it is a 1978.
I own a 316 and a 318 as well as some cheap junk and I will say that nothing can even come close to either of those two deeres... they out perform my scag power wise and when they are done that they keep asking for more
The john Deere garden tractor's are real good, and is expensive, especially the smaller ones when purchased new. The larger tractor I have is the model 790 which I purchased new since I live in the country. It is fine for what I do and even though I didn't buy it to be mowing, it does a good job mowing my lawn, and other areas as well. The garden tractor you have is good for urban gardening and mowing as well, and is nice for the urban area.
I sure like my lx176 I've used that for snow plowing and pushed lots of snow actually more than I was expected it to do but 1 inch axles make a difference. My 420 now is different like your saying. I need a 3 point for it along with a tiller or plow
I have an older 316 that I bought as a "parts tractor" that my son, a JD Fanatic. wouldn't let me part out. He took it and completely restored it for me. It has a single cylinder 16hp Kohler and dual hydraulics. According to my son they were only made for about 9 months with that engine. I believe it has the dual brakes. My grandsons have driven it in some local parades and I mowed with it once just to say I did it. Great old tractor !
Nice video! I run into this problem a lot with people thinking my John Deere 332 diesel is a lawn mower and I have to explain all this to them. Also just a couple things I noticed the 317 is just as beefy as a 318 the reason it has a bad rep is because of the engine it had which is the Kohler KT-17 as they where prone to blow up because of an oiling issue. There isn't a reason really to skip a sleeve hitch unless you just want to run the bigger and more expensive 3pt implements. They offer hydraulic and electric sleeve hitches on both the old garden tractors like the 200 series John Deere's as well as the modern day X500 series. In fact the John Deere 300 series closed frame tractors the predecessors to the 318 all had the option for a hydraulic sleeve hitch or a 3pt. Now I do agree if its a big box store garden tractor with a sleeve hitch just skip it its not worth the trouble of trying to use that light of a tractor. Just a couple observations thats all, all around good video thanks for sharing! P.S. I also make videos of my Vintage Deere restored and unrestored garden tractors and I use them in my garden I'd love for you to check it out when you can! BTW you gained a sub!
Excellent points. The old iron is almost always more robust than what we have available at the stores today. On big reason I also like 3 point is the ability to easily adjust angle and pitch, and you can make/buy a 3 point to sleeve hitch adapter and run whichever! Thanks for watching!
Yeh I love the old Iron I have had some of the newer box store machines and I wasn't a fan of them. I definitely prefer 3pt hitches over sleeve hitches but I have a John Deere 212 with a factory sleeve hitch and factory electric lift and it will give the 332 a run for its money . I've been wanting to get a 3pt to sleeve hitch adapter but I don't really use the sleeve hitch implements they're more for taking to tractor shows and stuff like that behind the 212. Im trying to buy more 3pt Implements for the 332 as I do like that setup better. I actually like tillers more than plows and disc's at least for my soil because its really sandy and no matter how much weight or the size of the tractor you will get stuck pulling a disc in it if you're not careful so since tillers don't take much to move them you don't get stuck as easy. I've got a John Deere 30 hydraulic tiller that mounts on the back of the 332's 3pt.
Caleb Stenger Not all 317's have that problem only ones with the Kholer KT-17 series 1. John Deere fixed that problem later on with the release of the Kholer KT-17 series 2 which had full pressure lubrication. Many 317's were repowered by many dealers with Onan P218's when the Kholer KT-17 series 1's blew up. But other than the engine the tractor is just as well built and capable as a 318. I have run both a 317 and 318 and they're both fine machines. But like you said the series 1's didn't last very long if you had lots of slopes.
@@MinnesotaHomesteading That's kind of what I thought. Looking at starting price of $11k. Not sure it's worth it for just a garden. I have a family of six. We get most of our vegetables at costco. Not sure I would ever make the money back....
@@JimmyDevere Nope, it isn't cheaper. I also use the 316 for driveway maintenance, blowing snow, etc., so it is a multi-tool for me. While I hate rotary tillers, they would be a better bet for you as far as cost. That, or go no-till and heavy mulch. I also view food security as having more value than just the dollars the market assigns to food, so there is that. That said, if you had even an ATV, you could pull some light equipment such as a drag harrow/cultivator. You could even go with a manual 2 wheel hoe, like the Hoss (which I have). Power equipment just makes jobs easier and less time costly :D
@@MinnesotaHomesteading Thank you for your replies. You bring up some good points such as food security which is a big one for me as well. I only have a little experience gardening (one season). I used the mittleider method building12 30ft furrows on a roughly 2000 sf plot with a shovel and rake and then growing seedlings and transplanting. It uses a blend of fert for this and I tilled with a push tiller. Our soil is bad here (Northern AZ) so not sure if a cultivator would be better or not but I am working on building soil with chicken manure/wood shavings. I found the mittleider method productive (except the locust ruined the potato harvest) we had a lot of pests but I was able to grow more than they ate (with the exception of potatoes). My dad grew up in the mid west using a Farm-all tractor with cultivator to make furrows and plant directly into the soil. Seems much easier than what I was doing. I am looking for ways to make it easier for me. Building the furrows was a lot of work ( built 12 30 foot furrows ), and then I would spend an hour on average or more each day watering, weeding and picking pests out. So that's why I am looking at other methods of gardening. I live on one acre so I have more usable land if I need it. There is an old Sears ST-12 for sale on CL for $1000 bucks but needs work and doesn't have a mower or cultivator so I would still need to by a separate lawn mower and cultivator. Do you think the cheaper brinly cultivators will do the job? Looks like they work ok for just a few inches.
For comparison, I just looked up my snowmobile: A 1996 Arctic cat 580 EFI, which I can lift each side no problem in full winter gear. It is listed at 543 pounds. I cannot come close to lifting the rear of my 316 off the ground, and the front takes REAL effort.
A "riding lawnmower" is usually a rear engine machine that is designed to cut grass. Your Deere is technically a "lawn tractor". The 316 is obviously a "garden tractor". But being "belt driven" doesn't mean something is a "lawn tractor" either like you mentioned. I collect vintage garden tractors and have several Wheel Horse tractors that are belt driven as well as any implements. Most garden tractors use belt driven implements, be it a snowthrower, belly mower, tiller, etc. The Case/ Ingersoll tractors use a hydraulic p.t.o. for rear implements (tillers) but front or mid mount implements are belt driven. Also a sleeve hitch on the rear is arguably better on the rear than a cat0 3point. Cat0 implements are much more expensive and harder to find. I'm mostly a Cub cadet man myself but I have a few of just about every color. I kinda stay away from the Deere stuff though because they put some magical ingredient in their green paint that makes everything more expensive. B t y the Onan is a nice engine until something goes wrong, then look out, and get out the wallet (if you can find the parts.) I like the Kohler k/magnum singles. A little more vibration but all the torque you'd ever need to do anything these tractors are rated for and a huge after market following.
Riding mowers have evolved...OLD ones some were rear engine. Then cub 1320..1720...lx jd and so forth...then the garden tractors...so th we comment that they were usually rear engine is not correct
Dakota Mohn they are awesome, maybe the stock engines aren’t that great.. i never experianced these. I got an 18hp v2 in it, but i dont know what de stock engine is like, probably not bad since these old engines are pretty though
HP is a combination of Torque and RPM. your 316 probably spins slower, but probably has way more torque then the 22hp lawn mower. torque can also be created through gearing multiplication.
A garden tractor has lower gears. But I remember these 316 models brand new in the early 1980s and being told that the hydrostatic system replicated a 11 speeds.
but one good thing is that Onan engine in the 318 will last thousands of hours if cared for maybe 5000 or more without needing major work done top it compare that the the briggs or Kohler that you mighty get 1500-2000 hours of use if you baby them
Learned a lot from your video . Looking for something to mow with I don't want big box mower , what brand is its own John Deere , simplicity ? I want hydrostatic any suggestions , mowing 1 acre lot. Thanks John
Thanks for watching! Honestly, most mowers use the major parts from suppliers. John Deere doesn't build its own hydrostatic transaxles or engines for example. So, its really getting the configuration and options you want at a good price point. Although avoid Simplicity residential mowers at all costs. They use the cheapest stuff they can get, including PLASTIC housing on transaxles!! I chose John Deere because, well I grew up with green tractors, but more importantly the operator station was the most comfortable of all mowers I tried, and the reverse implement switch was easily defeated (new mowers don't like you having the blades engaged in reverse. Some mowers simply kill, others you have to push a switch like my JD130, some you have a convoluted series of steps with the ignition switch). If I were to be looking for a new mower today, and only for mowing duties, I would take a good long look at Cub Cadet's offerings.
Did a lot of looking and researching and have been happy with my Cub Cadet lawn mower. The Kawasaki engine they have available would be a recommended upgrade for longevity. Lots of mower for the price. They did a good job on the redesign.
Good video! With the exception of your opinion of the 317. I've had them both and many others. The 318 is definitely a drop-down in quality from the 317 in all respects. Except for the engine. Which in MHO was more of a misapplication on Deere's part than Kohler. Not to mention Deere completely closing the engine off from cooling air on the 317. If they were so bad, why is there to this day so many of them still around. Many more than 316's I may add. The hillside wives tale is just that. I've rebuilt just about every series 300 and 400 series machine over the years. I have never seen a damaged rear axle or frame on a 317. But any of the then later than the 318 are prone to cracked differential cases, cracked frames at the axle mounts, and broken front mounts on the transmission support. Your 316 is likely no exception as about one in every two I have worked on has one or all of these issues. You are likely to correct in your tiller opinion. But you're not going to do much plowing with that 316 and not suffer the results mentioned above. Three-point or not! The tiller sure beats a hoe and, I've seen a lot of them hanging around the golf courses so they must have a useful purpose. I could only hope to grow things as well as those folks do. I use the tiller attachment on my machines every year (only on the 317) and I agree with you about pulverizing the soil. One quick pass approx. 3 to 4 inches deep and that's it. I should purchase a disk actually. With the Georgia clay we have, you would need something much bigger to plow it. Hope I didn't sound too critical. You made a good video with lots of information. Thank You.
Its always worth looking into the OEM designed capability before working them too hard. I had a basically junk Craftsman riding mower that I decided, for lack of better option (before I had the 316) to drag the driveway with a basic drag. Tore up the transmission in short order doing that, and now it sits in the junk pile.
You bring up a good point about the rear wheels (i.e. no lug nuts) but I believe it is a bit misleading on the new JD tractors. Take the X380 and X500 for example. The X380 has no rear lug nuts, just a hub with a keyway. The X500 has a hub with lug nuts BUT... that hub just slides on the axle with a key way. So in the end both tractors basically have the same mechanism driving the rear tires, that is a single key way.
When I was looking at new John Deere garden tractors to see what had the same ruggedness and capability, I believe it was the x700 series that fit those requirements. IIRC, the x500 series has a vertical shaft engine, and the rear end is driven by a pulley sticking up, just like a regular riding mower. Also, the X500 series had a much weaker frame than the X700 or these old JD 316/317/318 type tractors.
Thank you for the response. I agree completely. While the X500 has a beefier transmission it actually shares the same frame as the X300 series. The only true garden tractor JD makes these days is the X700-series and in some ways it still pales in comparison to the old 318 class machines. There have been issues with radiators breaking due to the frame flexing/twisting on some X700-series models.
I wouldn't bash the X500 series frame. It's 10-gauge steel and so are the mower decks. The frame rails are not as tall as the frame rails on your 316 but are still of a heavy gauge steel, plus the K72 transaxle with differential lock will pull heavy loads up hills all day long just like the rear end in the 316 will. The X500 series made today are comparable to the old John Deere 200 series (210-216): heavy built, durable engine and transmission (belt drive, yes, but trouble-free with proper maintenance), built to handle the heavy loads of a tiller or other rear sleeve hitch attachment, not the heaviest and beefiest machine available, but also not a cheap and flimsy one. The X500 series are a good cross between a regular mower and a heavy garden tractor.
Ya well son let me tell you something, your a tad too late with this video. I wish I had this to fall back on for info about two years ago before I bought my John Deere S240 and started thinking over the property and what I wanted to do with it. Oh the S240 is a fine machine but it's very limited and has no ground engagement potential which I now regret, I should have gone with the X748 or something along those lines. If this video had been around back then I would considered the machine a lot differently then I see things now. The ole hind sight factor kicking in. Well anyway, thank you and I mean that. Good info and a good take on how to view what it is you want to do with the land as well as the machines. I'm going to take a look at some of the other info you have before I go spend any more money that I shouldn't . . . . , huh.... Much appreciated youngster, thanks.
I'm looking at the X380. Don't need much for ground engaging attachments, it'll pull around a small garden trailer and those types of chores but nothing major so it should do fine as a lawn/garden tractor. I'd love to get the X738 but man they want as much for it as they do a compact utility tractor.
Have you seen the price difference between a s240 and a x738? Sure a x738 is nice but can you really afford the $12k it cost for just ground engagement? There is a tow behind tiller option you can get which runs off a independent motor.
What would you say my '81 Craftsman GTV 16 Varidrive? It has a 16 hp horizontal shaft Briggs&Stratton gas engine, it has a manual transmission but it is belt drive.
I'm not specifically familiar with Craftsman machines. However, from looking at Tractor Data, doesn't look like the machine is ground engaging rated, as there is no 3 point or sleeve hitch factory option, no option for rear attachments at all. I would consider it a riding mower.
I got it from a fellow who was on a chat forum actually. He was selling them pre-cut. For the life of me, I can't remember the name of the forum. Sorry.
The Ariens GT line of tractors from '79 to 84' were very underrated. Have a 14 and a 16. Kohler engines, spoon splash. Careful of your degree of level when working stationary. The main cause of engine failure is the FAILURE to change the fluids within spec!! Once you rebuild (or before) you put an hour meter on these machines (yes machines). Hour meter is for maintenance purposes. Frames and robust engines. That is the reason most GT's last so long.
Not sure on that one. We actually have a strong "western" culture in rural Minnesota, and plenty of shops with hats/boots/tack, etc. It may even have been one I picked up WHILE in Texas!
It has been a while, but I remember having to modify the connecting rods between the lever and the valve, and some other fitment modifications needed. It wasn't exactly bolt in.
If the John deere 216 is a garden tractor that is 850 lb or 385kg . Would a Westwood t1800 be a garden tractor at 300 kg dry no deck under it and be able to pull a plough?
Honestly, the 216 would be too small to plow anything other than very sandy soils IMHO. Had to look it up, but I would NOT put a Westwood t1800 to work in the dirt like that. Pulling a rotary tiller perhaps, but not dragging a plow.
I think if you give it enough traction, you will start damaging the tractor very quickly. I'm not fully familiar with the Westwood, but it does NOT look durable enough to handle heavy dirt work.
I'm sure it can be done. But "can" and "should" have different meanings :D Also makes a big difference on soil type. If you are shallow on very loose, sandy soil, it takes a lot less tractor than trying to plow through heavy clay.
I would buy a new John Deere X570 tomorrow if a dealer would put a twin blade 42" deck under it so it could fit my needs. Even a Cub Cadet XT3 is available with a twin blade 42" deck, although it's just a tad lighter duty machine than the X570.
Other than lack of steering brakes, it would be considered superior. If you get a 3 point, I would consider looking at a Cat 1 limited, simply for the extra range of motion, which is less on the shorter arms of the Cat 0 size.
No. The rear PTO was only for a rear PTO tiller. Since it turns the 3600 engine rpm down to only 2000 rpm, other standard PTO attachments would not work anyway. I've thought about using the rear PTO output shaft on my 316 (turns 1:1 engine RPM) for a secondary hydraulic pump which could run higher flow and a full 2500 psi, but I don't see a need for that anymore since I have a bobcat now.
I gotta say, I grew up dispensing tremendous abuse to my dad's 317 and it held up like a rock. He bought it new in the early 80s. I pulled trees with that, drove it through the woods, mowed steep ditches, did cookies in it with the steering brake. I even rolled it over once and cracked the hood. I had to get mom to pull it back over with the pickip and swear not to tell Dad. Forward, reverse, forward, reverse at full throttle was a daily occurrence. I ABUSED that thing. The engine finally went, but I was out of the house by then and had given it about 15 years of beating. Lord only knows what my brother had done to it. Dad put a new motor in it after about twenty years and it's still going. Transmission needs to be rebuilt and the steering is loose, but man...that thing was like a rock. If the 317 was poorly built I'd love to see a 318.
garden tractor VS farm tractor. No comparison LOL. Both do great at their intended job but I don't think you'd have much luck trying to mow your lawn with the Massey 165, at least not without doing a lot of backing up and big turns and ruts and tearing up your lawn LOL. Doubt the garden tractor would pull your corn planter very well, or run your baler, or swather LOL. Both are great tractors just not exactly something you could interchange one for the other on LOL.
William Todd I have a Massey Ferguson MF12. They use the same belt driven variable speed drive and rear ends as the Deeres. They had a tecumshe engine though, which is a little harder to find parts for than the kohler. The MF14 & MF 16 had Kohlers and are sweet machines.
lawn tractors with a front engine are much more maneuverable than my 212! My 212 is not designed to mow grass, it was designed to work very hard to get the job done!
I have a hard time believing 318 weighs 800 pounds dry, I have one and can pick up the back or front. It has front weights, and rear wheel weights installed also
Man these old garden tractors have lots of power, which if taken care of will last for a very long time 35-40yrs! even after that they can be rebuilt to last for another 35-40yrs and more! Like "MichaelTJD60" said in the comment below.
If you are mowing one acre or less: lawn tractor, anything more than one acre: garden tractor. All in all, the garden tractor is a better machine for a bunch of different tasks as compared to the lawn tractor. It really all depends on owners needs.
Outta curiosity, wouldn’t the first be more of a lawn tractor? It’s not purely a mower, it’s a multipurpose lawn vehicle, so the designation confuses me. Whichever it may be, this is a great, informative video!
I know from experience that doing anything more than cutting the grass and maybe pulling a small cart with nearly nothing in it will destroy the transaxles in short order. They are built to mow the lawn and pretty much nothing else.
Front has arms and spindles not an axle ;) lol just saying! haha Great video - I wish I had a Garden Tractor though! They sure are expensive as hell. What are your thoughts between gasoline and diesel small engines - torque/power wise? PS I'm in Tea S.D. just outside of Sioux Falls - It's nice to see some people from near me in Minnesota!
Thanks for watching! Well, diesel is always better for torque and fuel efficiency. Can be expensive to repair though. I just spent $450 for a rebuild injector pump for the diesel engine in my skidsteer in my other videos! Glow plugs were another $65.
Dang - then I guess there's also the diesel gelling up in the winter issue if I want to plow snow lol - Man there's some real pros and cons!!!!!!! And no problem! Loving your videos! Where at in Minnesota are you?
I'm not concerned with diesel gelling in the winter. If you use winter blend and put some anti-gel in it, I've started diesels down to -30. Also, using full synthetic 5w40 diesel oil helps a LOT for winter. I'd rather not say where in MN I am, but I am north of I-90 and south of International Falls ;)
Nicholas Brown incorrect, the Deere has a front axle. It's cast iron. The problem is the crappy tie rods on those with ends that aren't replaceable. The steering gear/plate is junk and likes to strip out.
I expect this mower will last several seasons with decent care. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend Also, I ran across the problem with it not starting the 2nd time I used it. There is a safety switch which is pushed in by the chute or mulching piece being attached to the deck. I took the cover off and it wouldn't start. Put it back on, no problem. It takes only a minute with 2 easily accessible wingnuts and no tools. This mower starts up first crank each time and it is a joy to use. It also mows in reverse by putting the key to the reverse area after starting and pushing in the triangular button. It will stay in reverse mode until you turn it off. All in all, for my homeowner needs, I really like this mower-and at 70 bucks a cut here in Miami, it's already more than 1/3 paid for itself in a month.
Great video all these years later! I’m starting a farm and I’m gonna use garden tractors to start. I like how some fords look like the 8000s which is neat
I got a 316 a few months ago been a goal of mine for a few years to get one but I got it needing a lot of work but the way it sits it’s in very good cosmetic shape and needs some mechanical attention but it will get it and I know it’ll be a great tractor and I’m glad to own it!
Grew up on a 316. Thanks for the video!
Very well said sir. One other factor with these older tractors is you can rebuild them if needed and get many, many more years out of them. I've got a 1971 cub cadet 129, what a little tank. It did have a 42 inch rear tiller but I sold the tiller. I also have a 1987 John deere 430 with a deluxe cozy cab. I have the 47 inch snowblower, 48 inch tiller, 4 way 54 inch front blade and a few more items. It gets used year round. I plan on getting a few more garden tractors. So with owning these tractors I have, I can say you are very accurate with this video. When someone calls my 430 a lawn mower I don't get angry just chuckle, they just don't understand. I guess with a dry weight of 1170 lbs. It makes one hell of a "lawn mower" lol. Thanks for the video.
I put a 2" ball mount on my cub cadet lawn mower. I move around my 12' trailer and my wood splitter with that thing. It doesn't like moving the trailer but it gets the job done so I can mow the grass where it sits in the yard. The log splitter it moves easily.
I agree with you that 3 points are waaaay better than dumb old sleeve hitches. I have an IH Cub Cadet 782, that has wheel weights and ag tires.
Thanks for the video that 316 reminds me of my cousins 1974 cub cadet and I'll agree 100% with you that you can feel how much weight is in those kind of vehicles and the quality that they used to put into machines, if only they built them like they used to
Man those old Cub Cadets were pretty dang good machines too, not too sure about the new ones though...They do have an XT3 out now that is shaft driven, no belts. I think like $7-8k for it.
I have a long mower that has a lock nuts and I am out at 30° hill and I plow with it all the time but it’s also like a high-end one
Love your video, watched it many times. Would like to add though that the frame on my 317 is just as large as your 316. The 317 had a bad rep for its early KT17 motor. Would throw a rod if operated on hill sides for to long of a period of time. The frame and other components of the tractor were extremely heavy duty and mine still works wonderfully today 👍🏻
This could easily be alternately titled "What did you buy?" coincidentally. I got a mid 80s Toro some weeks ago that I'm having daydreams of fabbing up a dirt pushing blade for leveling a pad (still on the fence) but really bought just to mow. It's built like a tank and weighs about the same, but I doubt it was ever envisioned to have implements added to it, even though it could probably handle it. It does have a belt system but also an actual clutch disc and a 5 speed transaxle and a very solid frame, so we'll call it a 'hybrid'. The clutch was glazed and broken to crap when I got it, so I ended up fabricating a new one from tractor parts and now have the joy/misery of having to worry about doing wheelstands when taking off out of neutral. 😁
i totally agree with everything you are saying. however i have a John Deere X500 GT that i added a sleeve hitch to and then a electric screw jack from johnny products. it works wonders and i have no complaints
As long as the equipment does the job you need it to, you are GTG.
Thank you very much for making this video and informing people about such an important topic. Too many people today buy a cheap mower from Home Depot or Lowe's and expect to go pull trees down and till gardens with it. Then they complain when the rear end goes out or the frame cracks. I've owned nearly 20 lawn and garden tractors in the past 10 years and have worked on many different sizes and brands.
Considering that some of the old classic garden tractors like your 316 are getting to be 35-40+ years old, they're gonna require a bit more TLC to keep them going...this is why a lot of uninformed homeowners stay away from buying a used machine and will buy a brand new one with a warranty instead; they don't want to buy an old "lemon" that needs work, and they don't want to have to fix a machine when it breaks (let alone find the parts for something that old). In the grand scheme of things, the old garden tractors have lasted 35-40 years easily...with proper maintenance and a steady market for replacement parts, they will go another 35-40. These new machines, especially lawn tractors, will not last that long. If EVERYONE knew how great the old garden tractors were, there would be NO market for the box-store machines...but that isn't the case. The box-store machines continue to bring in millions of dollars in revenue each year, mainly because of their low MSRP and the promising warranties offered by stores like Lowe's, Home Depot, and Tractor Supply.
I started out with an LA series Deere from Lowe's and thought it was the greatest thing, while wondering why my uncle never bothered to upgrade from his 30 year old beat-up 318 with over 4000 hours on it. But once I started doing commercial mowing, I found out why. Two years ago I bought my first 316 in mint restored condition and fairly low hours and I fell in love with it, had plans to upgrade to H2 hydraulics and dual brake pedals, but then the machine caught fire. Long story short, we ended up replacing it with a new X570. The X570 is a good tractor and pretty heavy for it's size (arguably the best mowing tractor I have ever used). To an extent, it's nicer than the older tractors because of its creature comforts, stellar cut quality, and fuel efficiency. Plus I can put a sleeve hitch on it if need be. But I still miss having a 300 series. The X570 is a nice dependable (and rugged) machine for the money, but it most likely won't be around in another 40 years. For now, my 40-year-old (belt drive!) JD 210 with hydraulic lift and sleeve hitch (two things you cannot install on a lawn tractor), will do just fine.
MichaelTJD60 I
I got an X350 ... Going to be doing a lot of work by hand in the coming years building the wife some gardens ... Doing about 50% raised beds, 50% in-ground crops. Just love a JD. Thanks for the video.
You did a great job on this video, explaining the difference between lawn mower and garden tractor.
Years ago I bought a Murray that was rated as capable of pulling a one bottom plow with tire chains. It was new in 85 and it did a great job of mowing my 2.5 acres. By the year 2000 it was getting hard to find parts for it. I wanted a John Deere but a good one even used was out of my budget so I bought the little puddle jumper, an MTD which is strictly for mowing grass. The thing that made me desire a John Deere was parts. A parts man told me he didn't care how old it was, he could get parts.
Eventually I grew tired of making do with the MTD riding lawn mower which is even smaller than your D model. I took a leap and bought three 200 series at an auction. A 210, 212, and 214. None of them were listed as running but I figured with three of them I should be able to swap parts back and forth and get two of them running. Another fellow on YT had a video of his 212 and I was impressed so when the three of them came up on auction I took the chance. They have the five lug wheels and a very heavy frame so they are true Garden tractors with 23 inch tires.The dry weight is 650 so they are definitely a grade above lawn tractor.
My JD dealer told me the same thing, they have 20+ year old machines that they still have parts in stock for. Why? Because people still run those old machines because they do great work and easy to maintain and repair.
People ask me why so many old Cub Cadets and Wheel Horses are used for competitive pulling rather than John Deere's...I tell them it's because the John Deere's are still out there working hard after 40-50 years! I love all the old garden tractors from back in the day, but when it comes to longevity, reliability, parts availability, comfort/ease of use, and best engineering, John Deere takes the cake, hands down. Like you mentioned William, Deere continues to stock parts for the 30-40-50 year old machines because so many people still use them and they are working just as hard now as they were when they were new.
+MichaelTJD60 m
Good video. Since I work at a fab shop I have beefed up my lawn tractor, Boxed the frame added weight etc. I'm trying to avoid locking up the diff. because I still want maneuverability. We'll see how everthing works out this spring.
I would avoid locking the rear axle. With the 316 in full pull, even with weight on the front and ideal steering tires, I can have a lot of trouble steering in slick conditions (winter). At very least, you will tear up turf.
Yeah that's kinda what I was thinking. And at the end of the day we are only homesteading on a half acre and my tractor's primary job is still mowing considering how we grow weeds here in colo. they are closer to trees.
The only thing wrong with the 317, is the engine had a oil slinger and not a oil pump. My 317 had steering brakes, and duel hydraulic levers. It mowed 5 acres for over 20 years. Great tractor.
Not a problem for my 317, got a onan in it
@mrusa2038 You people speak as though the oil pump does anything. Splash lubrication is more than adequate as is proven by the ridiculous amount of run hours on millions of splash lubricated components around the world.
Good video. I have a JD112. I made my three point. It's amazing how much that thing will pull. It's only got the one hydraulic circuit but I want to upgrade to three and add a small front end loader.
John Deere 318 is a fantastic machine I have my grandfathers that he purchased new in the 80s. The resale price on them is very high.... and for people not wanting to pay the high price look for a cub cadet 782. Very similar tractor with the same capabilities.
I got a couple little work horses at home got a early 60s john deere 110 and a 75 massy there gettin worked on now be mowin next summer i hope
I have a built Ole Massey Ferguson model 7, diesel engine swapped. It gets the job done like a little tractor and Mows my lawn and snowblows my driveway. I've had it for 20 years and it's still runnin strong.
Hey guy, thanks for taking your time to make this video, it was super informative and I really, really appreciate it! A big thanks from up in NH, see ya
Great video. I had an 88 Craftsman GT18, it had the horizontal B&S 18HP 2 cylinder engine. It did in fact have more grunt to it than my 2010 Craftsman YT4000's 24HP 2 cylinder engine. The frame is a hell of a lot smaller, way too much flex to do anything with other than mow a flat lawn.
I'm actually looking at a John Deere 380 as a replacement to the YT4000. Unfortunately the GT18's engine failed in 2010, the YT4000's engine just failed last week with only 290 hours on it. The GT18 the hours were unknown as there wasn't an hour meter on it, but it mowed 2 acres for 20 years plus tons of other yard chores so easily over 3,000 hours.
I have a Low's 11 HP TropBilt riding mower. I mow and take out the trash with it and it's great for that. I used to have a 24 HP. Cub Cadet Garden Tractor, very expensive to purchase. . You could not plow snow with it, should of had a front end loader, but I did buy a 30" snow blower for it, and it did ok, but wet snow clogged it up quickly. The Kohler motor was hard starting always. Now I just use the troybilt riding mower with the engine in the back to mow grass and pull my little cart (max of 150 lbs), I plow with my XJ 97 HD Jeep (is awesome) and I get my food from the grocery store, LOL...
Thanks for the input I think I will drive the cub and John Deere and see what I like . I have a 317 for sale close to me so tempting but way more then I need for just mowing .
Check out the Cub Cadet XT3 if you are seriously considering a Cub Cadet. Not sure what it would compare to on the JD line but the XT3 is shaft drive, no belt on the transmission, direct shaft from engine to hydro system.
Nice video! If someone asks me about lawn tractors, I tell them to walk away from anything that doesn’t have actual lug nuts holding the rear wheels on. If it just has a single cap in the center, it’s just a tractor looking lawn mower.
Excellent advice. Lots to think about. Especially about roto-tillers. Perhaps a disc harrow instead...
Just get both, I just bought a John Deere with tiller and a Sears with plow , disc, cultivator
i need an old garden 315 tractor from the 1970's , i need your help replacing the drive belt
Good review, brings up some good points. Something I've noticed over the years: I have a GT235 and a GT245, both with 54" decks. I love 'em. I picked up the 245 recently because it came with (a), half the hours on the hour meter as my 235, (b) it had a snow blower, and (c) it had an aftermarket cab that'll keep the snow from blowing back in my face. My wife came into her Dad's L130 when her parents passed away a few years ago. All are from the same vintage, around 2005. The L130 has a single-belt drive system, meaning one long belt loops around and drives all the deck spindles, and the L130 has a lighter duty transmission. I believe it's a Tuff Tork K46, and it isn't serviceable by the owner/user. So basicaly, if it croaks, it's done. The GT235 & GT245 both have a main drive belt that drives an upper pulley on the deck's center spindle, and then a separate serpentine belt that drives all 3 spindles. I believe this gives the operator a much smoother, vibration-free ride. Probably not a big deal if you're mowing 1/4 acre, but with 3 acres +, like me, it's a big deal. Also the transmission is a heavier duty transmission, and it IS serviceable by the owner/user. When in doubt, check the owner's manual before you plunk down your money.
I was looking at getting a ford lgt 16d lawn mower for bit mowing and some heavier duty work. But right know I have a john deere la125 lawn mower that gets used for more than what its supposed to.
WOW you are really into the small tractors!
Do they still make these tractors or it's mowers only now? Some of us have work to do other than cutting grass.
They do, the X700 series. But you can find yourself a nice lower hour X475 or above and have locking differential, full hydraulics for front plow and rear tiller/blade, 3-point hitch capabilities, etc. A more modern heavy duty garden tractor that still mows great.
Your video was perfect honestly for me I find my self just needing a lawn tractor because I have a half an acer and I use my tractor which is a 1990 John derre 170 for mowing, hauling small things,sweeping leaves, and driving around the property to check on things. P.S. I do have a fenced in garden but I can't fit a garden tractor in there anyways haha
Good lawn mowers, nice video.
I bought the Craftsman T240 paid $2,300 with out tax at lowes it's a cross between a Lawn/Garden tractor according to a craftsman Rep so I have a little of both worlds and i have seen garden tractors with no lug nuts...the craftsman T240 comes with the Kohler KT725 22 horsepower 725cc V Twin 7000 series Engine it comes with a 3 year unlimited hours warranty and the warranty covers commercial use also
I agree with you on a lot of things you mentioned but As far as weight goes you said 800 pounds minimum, I’ve ran machines that were 500lbs with lug tires and I was able pull a ripper through rocky, hard Missouri soil. I’m currently running a case 224 with turf tires on it 715lbs dry and it pulls just fine. I’ve never had a three point just to expensive, but I’ve gotten along fine with a hydraulic lift or on my 500lb machine electric sleeve hitch. Sleeve hitches are easier to build attachments and easier and cheaper to find em. Great video, just had some different experiences/opinions than you. Stay safe and God bless!
I think every homesteader no matter how big or small should have a ''compact tractor'', I have a kubota bx myself but as long as it has a 3 point hitch, hydraulic hookups on the front, and a live pto in the middle for mowing and on the back for implements. You would not believe how many jobs and chores I'm able to tackle with my little 3 cylinder diesel kubota and I mow probably 3 acres with her every week.
My 317 has dual brakes and dual hydralics has series ll motor very reliable
The first 316's powered by the Kohler in '78 did have dual brakes and two hydraulic spools.
Interesting. Good to know!
TheTreegodfather I believe that was the tractor that they turned into the 317 and the onan 316 and 318 version was the rebuilt , rebound model.
Very possible
The hydraulics one those machines were options that you could get. An "h2" meant two remotes. An "h3" meant 3 remotes.
yep I have one also with that and the dual brakes.... four front hydraulic hook ups and the K341 kohler 16 horse engine
Passed on the 318 to large for my situation but I did find a old 108 in great condition have used it a couple of times and I really like it everything working great just have to order a new muffle . It has a 8 hp Briggs 30 inch mower which is really hard to find a small deck . I like the old stuff it is a 1978.
I own a 316 and a 318 as well as some cheap junk and I will say that nothing can even come close to either of those two deeres... they out perform my scag power wise and when they are done that they keep asking for more
that717jeepguy what scag do you have ?
Should I look into a 318 repower?
What is your opinion of a power king tractor? Any tips?
The john Deere garden tractor's are real good, and is expensive, especially the smaller ones when purchased new. The larger tractor I have is the model 790 which I purchased new since I live in the country. It is fine for what I do and even though I didn't buy it to be mowing, it does a good job mowing my lawn, and other areas as well. The garden tractor you have is good for urban gardening and mowing as well, and is nice for the urban area.
I sure like my lx176 I've used that for snow plowing and pushed lots of snow actually more than I was expected it to do but 1 inch axles make a difference. My 420 now is different like your saying. I need a 3 point for it along with a tiller or plow
I have an older 316 that I bought as a "parts tractor" that my son, a JD Fanatic. wouldn't let me part out. He took it and completely restored it for me. It has a single cylinder 16hp Kohler and dual hydraulics. According to my son they were only made for about 9 months with that engine. I believe it has the dual brakes. My grandsons have driven it in some local parades and I mowed with it once just to say I did it. Great old tractor !
Nice video! I run into this problem a lot with people thinking my John Deere 332 diesel is a lawn mower and I have to explain all this to them. Also just a couple things I noticed the 317 is just as beefy as a 318 the reason it has a bad rep is because of the engine it had which is the Kohler KT-17 as they where prone to blow up because of an oiling issue. There isn't a reason really to skip a sleeve hitch unless you just want to run the bigger and more expensive 3pt implements. They offer hydraulic and electric sleeve hitches on both the old garden tractors like the 200 series John Deere's as well as the modern day X500 series. In fact the John Deere 300 series closed frame tractors the predecessors to the 318 all had the option for a hydraulic sleeve hitch or a 3pt. Now I do agree if its a big box store garden tractor with a sleeve hitch just skip it its not worth the trouble of trying to use that light of a tractor.
Just a couple observations thats all, all around good video thanks for sharing!
P.S. I also make videos of my Vintage Deere restored and unrestored garden tractors and I use them in my garden I'd love for you to check it out when you can! BTW you gained a sub!
Excellent points. The old iron is almost always more robust than what we have available at the stores today. On big reason I also like 3 point is the ability to easily adjust angle and pitch, and you can make/buy a 3 point to sleeve hitch adapter and run whichever! Thanks for watching!
Yeh I love the old Iron I have had some of the newer box store machines and I wasn't a fan of them. I definitely prefer 3pt hitches over sleeve hitches but I have a John Deere 212 with a factory sleeve hitch and factory electric lift and it will give the 332 a run for its money . I've been wanting to get a 3pt to sleeve hitch adapter but I don't really use the sleeve hitch implements they're more for taking to tractor shows and stuff like that behind the 212. Im trying to buy more 3pt Implements for the 332 as I do like that setup better.
I actually like tillers more than plows and disc's at least for my soil because its really sandy and no matter how much weight or the size of the tractor you will get stuck pulling a disc in it if you're not careful so since tillers don't take much to move them you don't get stuck as easy. I've got a John Deere 30 hydraulic tiller that mounts on the back of the 332's 3pt.
The 317 does not have an oil pump it just has a slinger and if you run them on an incline they do not last very long as you can imagine.
Caleb Stenger Not all 317's have that problem only ones with the Kholer KT-17 series 1. John Deere fixed that problem later on with the release of the Kholer KT-17 series 2 which had full pressure lubrication. Many 317's were repowered by many dealers with Onan P218's when the Kholer KT-17 series 1's blew up. But other than the engine the tractor is just as well built and capable as a 318. I have run both a 317 and 318 and they're both fine machines. But like you said the series 1's didn't last very long if you had lots of slopes.
They only made that series 2 years I believe
What a good video. Totally worth my while. I found it very informative. Thank you.
What are some options you recommend for garden tractors. I don't think the modern 300 series JD's have 3-point hitch.
Depends on your budget and needs. The modern 700 series I believe can get a 3 point, or you need to step up to the "1" series for more serious work.
@@MinnesotaHomesteading That's kind of what I thought. Looking at starting price of $11k. Not sure it's worth it for just a garden. I have a family of six. We get most of our vegetables at costco. Not sure I would ever make the money back....
@@JimmyDevere Nope, it isn't cheaper. I also use the 316 for driveway maintenance, blowing snow, etc., so it is a multi-tool for me. While I hate rotary tillers, they would be a better bet for you as far as cost. That, or go no-till and heavy mulch. I also view food security as having more value than just the dollars the market assigns to food, so there is that. That said, if you had even an ATV, you could pull some light equipment such as a drag harrow/cultivator. You could even go with a manual 2 wheel hoe, like the Hoss (which I have). Power equipment just makes jobs easier and less time costly :D
@@MinnesotaHomesteading Thank you for your replies. You bring up some good points such as food security which is a big one for me as well. I only have a little experience gardening (one season). I used the mittleider method building12 30ft furrows on a roughly 2000 sf plot with a shovel and rake and then growing seedlings and transplanting. It uses a blend of fert for this and I tilled with a push tiller. Our soil is bad here (Northern AZ) so not sure if a cultivator would be better or not but I am working on building soil with chicken manure/wood shavings. I found the mittleider method productive (except the locust ruined the potato harvest) we had a lot of pests but I was able to grow more than they ate (with the exception of potatoes). My dad grew up in the mid west using a Farm-all tractor with cultivator to make furrows and plant directly into the soil. Seems much easier than what I was doing. I am looking for ways to make it easier for me. Building the furrows was a lot of work ( built 12 30 foot furrows ), and then I would spend an hour on average or more each day watering, weeding and picking pests out. So that's why I am looking at other methods of gardening. I live on one acre so I have more usable land if I need it. There is an old Sears ST-12 for sale on CL for $1000 bucks but needs work and doesn't have a mower or cultivator so I would still need to by a separate lawn mower and cultivator. Do you think the cheaper brinly cultivators will do the job? Looks like they work ok for just a few inches.
Do you have any garden books you recommend by any chance? Like i said, I'm looking to see if there are other methods to make it easier for me. Thanks.
Great advice..This is the info I was looking for. Thank you
Me either, but I picked mine up before putting on chains, not saying it's not but hard for me to believe after picking it up with not much struggle
For comparison, I just looked up my snowmobile: A 1996 Arctic cat 580 EFI, which I can lift each side no problem in full winter gear. It is listed at 543 pounds. I cannot come close to lifting the rear of my 316 off the ground, and the front takes REAL effort.
Your Knowledge is Priceless, thank you for posting this video.
Mine is a GT275. Got it used. Whats its ideal use?
Great video 👍 great explanations of these tractors.
A "riding lawnmower" is usually a rear engine machine that is designed to cut grass. Your Deere is technically a "lawn tractor". The 316 is obviously a "garden tractor".
But being "belt driven" doesn't mean something is a "lawn tractor" either like you mentioned. I collect vintage garden tractors and have several Wheel Horse tractors that are belt driven as well as any implements. Most garden tractors use belt driven implements, be it a snowthrower, belly mower, tiller, etc. The Case/ Ingersoll tractors use a hydraulic p.t.o. for rear implements (tillers) but front or mid mount implements are belt driven.
Also a sleeve hitch on the rear is arguably better on the rear than a cat0 3point. Cat0 implements are much more expensive and harder to find.
I'm mostly a Cub cadet man myself but I have a few of just about every color. I kinda stay away from the Deere stuff though because they put some magical ingredient in their green paint that makes everything more expensive.
B t y the Onan is a nice engine until something goes wrong, then look out, and get out the wallet (if you can find the parts.) I like the Kohler k/magnum singles. A little more vibration but all the torque you'd ever need to do anything these tractors are rated for and a huge after market following.
Riding mowers have evolved...OLD ones some were rear engine. Then cub 1320..1720...lx jd and so forth...then the garden tractors...so th we comment that they were usually rear engine is not correct
I own an 317. No problems what soever. To people that say the 317 is bad... no, it’s not at all..
I love my 1972 317 bought off my great grandpa for couple hundred bucks he bought it new in 72
Dakota Mohn they are awesome, maybe the stock engines aren’t that great.. i never experianced these. I got an 18hp v2 in it, but i dont know what de stock engine is like, probably not bad since these old engines are pretty though
Well done. Well presented video
HP is a combination of Torque and RPM. your 316 probably spins slower, but probably has way more torque then the 22hp lawn mower. torque can also be created through gearing multiplication.
A garden tractor has lower gears. But I remember these 316 models brand new in the early 1980s and being told that the hydrostatic system replicated a 11 speeds.
I have a ford garden tractor that has been swapped to a 16 hp horizontal shaft cast iron tecumseh and i pulled a half ton truck. With it
Awesome video
+1 Minnesota sub. i live in the southern portion of our great but over taxed state glad to see others taking a step in the right direction.
but one good thing is that Onan engine in the 318 will last thousands of hours if cared for maybe 5000 or more without needing major work done top it compare that the the briggs or Kohler that you mighty get 1500-2000 hours of use if you baby them
Learned a lot from your video . Looking for something to mow with I don't want big box mower , what brand is its own John Deere , simplicity ? I want hydrostatic any suggestions , mowing 1 acre lot. Thanks John
Thanks for watching! Honestly, most mowers use the major parts from suppliers. John Deere doesn't build its own hydrostatic transaxles or engines for example. So, its really getting the configuration and options you want at a good price point. Although avoid Simplicity residential mowers at all costs. They use the cheapest stuff they can get, including PLASTIC housing on transaxles!! I chose John Deere because, well I grew up with green tractors, but more importantly the operator station was the most comfortable of all mowers I tried, and the reverse implement switch was easily defeated (new mowers don't like you having the blades engaged in reverse. Some mowers simply kill, others you have to push a switch like my JD130, some you have a convoluted series of steps with the ignition switch).
If I were to be looking for a new mower today, and only for mowing duties, I would take a good long look at Cub Cadet's offerings.
Did a lot of looking and researching and have been happy with my Cub Cadet lawn mower. The Kawasaki engine they have available would be a recommended upgrade for longevity. Lots of mower for the price. They did a good job on the redesign.
Good video! With the exception of your opinion of the 317. I've had them both and many others. The 318 is definitely a drop-down in quality from the 317 in all respects. Except for the engine. Which in MHO was more of a misapplication on Deere's part than Kohler. Not to mention Deere completely closing the engine off from cooling air on the 317. If they were so bad, why is there to this day so many of them still around. Many more than 316's I may add. The hillside wives tale is just that. I've rebuilt just about every series 300 and 400 series machine over the years. I have never seen a damaged rear axle or frame on a 317. But any of the then later than the 318 are prone to cracked differential cases, cracked frames at the axle mounts, and broken front mounts on the transmission support. Your 316 is likely no exception as about one in every two I have worked on has one or all of these issues.
You are likely to correct in your tiller opinion. But you're not going to do much plowing with that 316 and not suffer the results mentioned above. Three-point or not! The tiller sure beats a hoe and, I've seen a lot of them hanging around the golf courses so they must have a useful purpose. I could only hope to grow things as well as those folks do. I use the tiller attachment on my machines every year (only on the 317) and I agree with you about pulverizing the soil. One quick pass approx. 3 to 4 inches deep and that's it. I should purchase a disk actually. With the Georgia clay we have, you would need something much bigger to plow it.
Hope I didn't sound too critical. You made a good video with lots of information. Thank You.
The 317 has the split rear brakes as well and the hydraulics to
Great job!!! Very educational...Thanks
The first thing I ever drove was a John deer 4020 even went to John deer middle school in Illinois.
The 4020 is a good tractor. We still use the 4020 on the farm, mainly for cutting hay and raking.
Hallo ik have a old cub cadet 1315 lawn mower but I can do heavy duty work with it I do even lawn mower pulling with it and it is doing the Job fine
Short answer is no, that machine is NOT made for ground engaging work.
Minnesota Homesteading that is true
Minnesota Homesteading its not made for it but my grandpa has a 1340 garden tractor and that is made for it
Its always worth looking into the OEM designed capability before working them too hard. I had a basically junk Craftsman riding mower that I decided, for lack of better option (before I had the 316) to drag the driveway with a basic drag. Tore up the transmission in short order doing that, and now it sits in the junk pile.
Minnesota Homesteading but I dont plow or do ground work
Extremely helpful video. Thank you!
There both Tractors!!! 1st Tractor you showed Not a lawn mower it is a "Lawn Tractor" (Not a Mower) with a belly mower cutting deck "Attachments"!!
my 1975-79 idk what year john deere 214 has bigger front spindels than your 316 because it's front axle was made in the u.s.a yours was made in Europe
You bring up a good point about the rear wheels (i.e. no lug nuts) but I believe it is a bit misleading on the new JD tractors. Take the X380 and X500 for example. The X380 has no rear lug nuts, just a hub with a keyway. The X500 has a hub with lug nuts BUT... that hub just slides on the axle with a key way. So in the end both tractors basically have the same mechanism driving the rear tires, that is a single key way.
When I was looking at new John Deere garden tractors to see what had the same ruggedness and capability, I believe it was the x700 series that fit those requirements. IIRC, the x500 series has a vertical shaft engine, and the rear end is driven by a pulley sticking up, just like a regular riding mower. Also, the X500 series had a much weaker frame than the X700 or these old JD 316/317/318 type tractors.
Thank you for the response. I agree completely. While the X500 has a beefier transmission it actually shares the same frame as the X300 series. The only true garden tractor JD makes these days is the X700-series and in some ways it still pales in comparison to the old 318 class machines. There have been issues with radiators breaking due to the frame flexing/twisting on some X700-series models.
I wouldn't bash the X500 series frame. It's 10-gauge steel and so are the mower decks. The frame rails are not as tall as the frame rails on your 316 but are still of a heavy gauge steel, plus the K72 transaxle with differential lock will pull heavy loads up hills all day long just like the rear end in the 316 will. The X500 series made today are comparable to the old John Deere 200 series (210-216): heavy built, durable engine and transmission (belt drive, yes, but trouble-free with proper maintenance), built to handle the heavy loads of a tiller or other rear sleeve hitch attachment, not the heaviest and beefiest machine available, but also not a cheap and flimsy one. The X500 series are a good cross between a regular mower and a heavy garden tractor.
EOSJOE Even the 317 doesn't have "lug nuts"
It has tapered head lug bolts.
What about a 3 acres. Would you still say John deere?
Ya well son let me tell you something, your a tad too late with this video. I wish I had this to fall back on for info about two years ago before I bought my John Deere S240 and started thinking over the property and what I wanted to do with it. Oh the S240 is a fine machine but it's very limited and has no ground engagement potential which I now regret, I should have gone with the X748 or something along those lines. If this video had been around back then I would considered the machine a lot differently then I see things now. The ole hind sight factor kicking in. Well anyway, thank you and I mean that. Good info and a good take on how to view what it is you want to do with the land as well as the machines. I'm going to take a look at some of the other info you have before I go spend any more money that I shouldn't . . . . , huh.... Much appreciated youngster, thanks.
Jack
I'm looking at the X380. Don't need much for ground engaging attachments, it'll pull around a small garden trailer and those types of chores but nothing major so it should do fine as a lawn/garden tractor. I'd love to get the X738 but man they want as much for it as they do a compact utility tractor.
Get rid of it ... just sell it
Have you seen the price difference between a s240 and a x738? Sure a x738 is nice but can you really afford the $12k it cost for just ground engagement? There is a tow behind tiller option you can get which runs off a independent motor.
Jack Stonington how has the S240 hold up? I just got one to mow a flat lawn, no ground engagement. Might haul a garden cart with some dirt etc.
What would you say my '81 Craftsman GTV 16 Varidrive? It has a 16 hp horizontal shaft Briggs&Stratton gas engine, it has a manual transmission but it is belt drive.
I'm not specifically familiar with Craftsman machines. However, from looking at Tractor Data, doesn't look like the machine is ground engaging rated, as there is no 3 point or sleeve hitch factory option, no option for rear attachments at all. I would consider it a riding mower.
Where did you get the fire wall foam as plan to replace it when I pull my motor?
I got it from a fellow who was on a chat forum actually. He was selling them pre-cut. For the life of me, I can't remember the name of the forum. Sorry.
Ya, I found it on my tractor forum.
I love living in Minnesota!
good, well thought out, well made video
The Ariens GT line of tractors from '79 to 84' were very underrated.
Have a 14 and a 16.
Kohler engines, spoon splash. Careful of your degree of level when working stationary.
The main cause of engine failure is the FAILURE to change the fluids within spec!!
Once you rebuild (or before) you put an hour meter on these machines (yes machines).
Hour meter is for maintenance purposes.
Frames and robust engines.
That is the reason most GT's last so long.
I really needed just a mower, but I didn’t want a basic model. I wanted something at least a bit more serious than a basic riding more.
Very informative video.
Did you hafta import that cowboy hat from TX?
Not sure on that one. We actually have a strong "western" culture in rural Minnesota, and plenty of shops with hats/boots/tack, etc. It may even have been one I picked up WHILE in Texas!
Great video and very well explained!
Was it easy to install the second hydraulic lever on your 316 because I was thinking about doing that to my 316
It has been a while, but I remember having to modify the connecting rods between the lever and the valve, and some other fitment modifications needed. It wasn't exactly bolt in.
Ok thanks
If the John deere 216 is a garden tractor that is 850 lb or 385kg . Would a Westwood t1800 be a garden tractor at 300 kg dry no deck under it and be able to pull a plough?
Honestly, the 216 would be too small to plow anything other than very sandy soils IMHO. Had to look it up, but I would NOT put a Westwood t1800 to work in the dirt like that. Pulling a rotary tiller perhaps, but not dragging a plow.
Would water do anything in the tyres (chevron tyres) to help in the dirt?
I think if you give it enough traction, you will start damaging the tractor very quickly. I'm not fully familiar with the Westwood, but it does NOT look durable enough to handle heavy dirt work.
I've seen people use a t1800 and a t1600 to plough with a sleve hitch stile plough
I'm sure it can be done. But "can" and "should" have different meanings :D
Also makes a big difference on soil type. If you are shallow on very loose, sandy soil, it takes a lot less tractor than trying to plow through heavy clay.
I would buy a new John Deere X570 tomorrow if a dealer would put a twin blade 42" deck under it so it could fit my needs. Even a Cub Cadet XT3 is available with a twin blade 42" deck, although it's just a tad lighter duty machine than the X570.
A few bits that are too remedial, but that 316 may have a lower HP rating, but guaranteed it has almost twice the torque.
Good advice. Thanks
What are your thoughts on a John Deere 455? Will be used to tend a 1 acre or so garden, mow about 3 acres of grass, and other miscellaneous jobs.
Excellent machine. I don't think dual brakes are a possibility on that one, IIRC, but I also think they have a diff lock.
How does the 455 do in comparison to something like the 316 or 318?
Other than lack of steering brakes, it would be considered superior. If you get a 3 point, I would consider looking at a Cat 1 limited, simply for the extra range of motion, which is less on the shorter arms of the Cat 0 size.
Would you put the rear pto on it if does does not come with one?
No. The rear PTO was only for a rear PTO tiller. Since it turns the 3600 engine rpm down to only 2000 rpm, other standard PTO attachments would not work anyway. I've thought about using the rear PTO output shaft on my 316 (turns 1:1 engine RPM) for a secondary hydraulic pump which could run higher flow and a full 2500 psi, but I don't see a need for that anymore since I have a bobcat now.
I gotta say, I grew up dispensing tremendous abuse to my dad's 317 and it held up like a rock. He bought it new in the early 80s. I pulled trees with that, drove it through the woods, mowed steep ditches, did cookies in it with the steering brake. I even rolled it over once and cracked the hood. I had to get mom to pull it back over with the pickip and swear not to tell Dad. Forward, reverse, forward, reverse at full throttle was a daily occurrence. I ABUSED that thing. The engine finally went, but I was out of the house by then and had given it about 15 years of beating. Lord only knows what my brother had done to it. Dad put a new motor in it after about twenty years and it's still going. Transmission needs to be rebuilt and the steering is loose, but man...that thing was like a rock. If the 317 was poorly built I'd love to see a 318.
How does it compare to a 1986 Massey 165?
Honestly, I'm not familiar with the Massey at all.
garden tractor VS farm tractor. No comparison LOL. Both do great at their intended job but I don't think you'd have much luck trying to mow your lawn with the Massey 165, at least not without doing a lot of backing up and big turns and ruts and tearing up your lawn LOL. Doubt the garden tractor would pull your corn planter very well, or run your baler, or swather LOL.
Both are great tractors just not exactly something you could interchange one for the other on LOL.
William Todd I have a Massey Ferguson MF12. They use the same belt driven variable speed drive and rear ends as the Deeres. They had a tecumshe engine though, which is a little harder to find parts for than the kohler. The MF14 & MF 16 had Kohlers and are sweet machines.
lawn tractors with a front engine are much more maneuverable than my 212! My 212 is not designed to mow grass, it was designed to work very hard to get the job done!
I have a hard time believing 318 weighs 800 pounds dry, I have one and can pick up the back or front. It has front weights, and rear wheel weights installed also
I got the information from Tractordata.com. Unfortunately, I have never had the opportunity to run my 316 over a scale.
Man these old garden tractors have lots of power, which if taken care of will last for a very long time 35-40yrs! even after that they can be rebuilt to last for another 35-40yrs and more! Like "MichaelTJD60" said in the comment below.
To me for garden work I prefer the 755 or 855
If you are mowing one acre or less: lawn tractor, anything more than one acre: garden tractor. All in all, the garden tractor is a better machine for a bunch of different tasks as compared to the lawn tractor. It really all depends on owners needs.
Outta curiosity, wouldn’t the first be more of a lawn tractor? It’s not purely a mower, it’s a multipurpose lawn vehicle, so the designation confuses me. Whichever it may be, this is a great, informative video!
I know from experience that doing anything more than cutting the grass and maybe pulling a small cart with nearly nothing in it will destroy the transaxles in short order. They are built to mow the lawn and pretty much nothing else.
Subscribed good video
Great video, man, thanks so much!
Front has arms and spindles not an axle ;) lol just saying! haha Great video - I wish I had a Garden Tractor though! They sure are expensive as hell. What are your thoughts between gasoline and diesel small engines - torque/power wise? PS I'm in Tea S.D. just outside of Sioux Falls - It's nice to see some people from near me in Minnesota!
Thanks for watching! Well, diesel is always better for torque and fuel efficiency. Can be expensive to repair though. I just spent $450 for a rebuild injector pump for the diesel engine in my skidsteer in my other videos! Glow plugs were another $65.
Dang - then I guess there's also the diesel gelling up in the winter issue if I want to plow snow lol - Man there's some real pros and cons!!!!!!! And no problem! Loving your videos! Where at in Minnesota are you?
I'm not concerned with diesel gelling in the winter. If you use winter blend and put some anti-gel in it, I've started diesels down to -30. Also, using full synthetic 5w40 diesel oil helps a LOT for winter.
I'd rather not say where in MN I am, but I am north of I-90 and south of International Falls ;)
Minnesota Homesteading the lawn mower is actually a horizontal shaft
Nicholas Brown incorrect, the Deere has a front axle. It's cast iron. The problem is the crappy tie rods on those with ends that aren't replaceable. The steering gear/plate is junk and likes to strip out.
The John Deere 317 is just fine
Great advice and "schooling!"