Just about to get back into darkroom after 45 yr absence so wonderful edu vid for me on dodging and burning. I especially liked your DYI masking board. I was surprised at the amount of cloud detail you got without a yellow filter
Roger I am loving that print at 30.42. Another great video and again no preaching, no arrogance just film fun including mistakes and great film photography all learning together..Brilliant and entertaining.:):)
Superpan is great, throw an infrared filter on the front and get good separation in tones. Green scenes can look a bit too snowy though. I would urge you to upgrade the enlarger lens, Componar was Schneider's basic model with three elements. Companon is night and day and uses 6 elements, it's well renowned. Any 6 element lens is great.
Another great video. I do the same with test shots using my digital if the exposures have to be spot on. For me, gone are the days of "shoot under and over just in case" haha.
Nice video as always! You always present things in a way that make it fun to follow your thought process on the shooting to print! Having done some darkroom work in the past and even working in a photo lab for a few years, I'm enjoying watching you work! I have a few 35mm cameras setting about that I've acquired while collecting classic lenses to shoot with on my Sony A7III. I'm trying to get them ready to play with some B&W film again. Being an old darkroom guy I never got rid of everything and still have the Peterson tank for two 35mm rolls. I got my youngest son into photography a few years back bit he's Neve shot film so I thought I get with him sometime this spring when he's on break from university and shoot a coupe of rolls.
This was fascinating. Thanks for sharing. I want to get into developing and printing my film photos and this video helped massively with technique. Going back to the beginning where you mentioned you were using the video footage to remember your camera settings, there's a phone app called Analog that records all that stuff for you: Camera, film, ISO you're shooting it at., aperture, exposure, lens used, and a notes section which is where I do my best to describe the scene so I can refer to it later on. It has been invaluable to me in the field. No more fiddling around with a notebook writing down field notes
Give Richard a shout at Nik & Trick in Folkestone, Kent. They stock a wide range of film at great prices. That is the only place I have seen Orwa film.
Wonderful print. I always make a rough sketch of my print with the exposure time/dodge/burn written over top, just below my other notes for the print like the filter number etc, but I like that you make a print specifically to write these notes on.
As always good stuff!!! Can you do a video on how to "properly" align the a 35 negative on various papers with different aspect ratio (8x10, 9x12, etc)? That would be really nice Cheers
Nice Print Roger! I thought you were about to get in that water like Clyde Butcher. Lol Check his work out if you've never heard of him.I admire his work.
I am the only one who watched the intro and thought: "Please do not drop the camera, or fall down and smash it" instead of "please don't slip and break a leg"!?!? :) Excellent videos, keep up the excellent, excellent job!
Rollei Superpan 200 is my film of choice at the moment. If used with an infrared filter it produces extra contrast and infrared- like results in sunshine. My favourite is your “bonus print”, Roger! Thankyou for another great video. There’s no one else on UA-cam who shows darkroom work and I love your dedication to film. 👍❤️
I'm curious which negative sleeve you are using? I've had bad luck with 35mm sleeves that have negatives slide into... the produce scratches that show up in a high quality digital scan. I now use a single sleeve that carefully wraps around the negatives. it is on a roll like old school shops use to provide when they did the processing for customers. the scratches probably dont show up on wet printing, especially if using products like "no scratch" liquid on the negative, or using nose oil from the body as the great printers of past use to do.
I'm not sure to be honest. my 35mm I have are many years old that I picked up from a lot sale. MF one's are off ebay. Do you have a link for the ones you use?
Haven't seen any Orwo NP22 since the 1990s. It's good stuff, I used it a lot. It has an old school look not unlike Fomapan, but superior to it in my opinion. I think the East German Orwo plant is long gone, they used to make movie film and colour slide as well as B&W. Orwo was sold mail order in the UK and very inexpensive.
Bymail Ltd. OrwoChrom UT21 £3.50 & process paid too. It needed a blue filter to kill the yellow colour cast. At a time when Agfa CT100 was £5.00 or so. ORWO NP22 dev time was the same as HP5. The grain was not as nasty as Foma 100 can be. I think Foma 100 is best pulled down to 50 ASA in sunny conditions. The best ORWO film was NP15. 25 ASA & the dev time was the same as FP4. You needed a hardening fixer. It was very soft emulsion, same as the EFKE. ORWO BN1 single-weight bromide paper in Agfa Neutol WA print dev. This was chloro-bromide as Agfa Record-Rapid was.
@@NJPurling That takes me back! Yes, UT21 was warm and grainy for 100 ASA film but I liked it. I used lots of NP22 but don't recall using NP15, though I liked Agfapan 25 and shot my last roll just a few years ago. Never used Orwo papers, Record Rapid and Brovira were my standards with neutral and warm tone developers. Marston and Heard at Lea Bridge Road, E10 had hard to find developers and papers, especially very small and large sizes. Bromide papers wouldn't make it past modern legislation but they produced wonderful luminous tones.
Ansel Adams did the same marking/mapping upon his test prints - for exposure purposes. For film, that's the way to proceed. Is it something you intuitively do ?
Yes, not on every print but when I have to burn or dodge different areas I'll usually make a dummy print to see where I am at then scribble notes on that print. Otherwise I'll forget. Just like making reminder notes I guess.
Do you shoot color film at all or 100% black & white ? BTW you inspire me to have my own darkroom in the future (next year), but can you make a video about "should begginers in film photography shoot medium format or just 35mm is enough ?" I really can't decide between those two formats and the resolution of which they can produce really makes me more confused. I intend to print at most 11×14" so 35mm seems good enough, but those damm good medium format cameras almost force me to start with them, sorry I said too much but I hope you can answer me !
I don't shoot colour, at least not yet. Medium format or 35mm for beginners? Medium format is just a larger medium. For the beginner I would suggest either. The beginner would get more for their money with 35mm with 36 exposures compared to say 15 and less developer to use and also there seems to be far more 35mm equipment on the second hand market , but the process is just the same.
Off subject but do you find the hard water on the island effects your developing. Struggling with getting spotty negs. Over here in yorkshire with hard water
@@zapallalla aye I keep meaning to pic some up. It's hard to descrio the issues I'm having I suspect another part of it is isn't letting it dry long enough and the darkroom I have access not being the cleanest in the world
I don't, I usually get clean negs. I use a drop of wetting agent and have also used a drop of fairy liquid if I've ran out. If I do get water spots I'll gently clean the non emulsion side with a soft cloth. Try using distilled water see how you get on. I use water for clothes irons. 2L in Sainsbury's for £1
Im looking for an affordable 6x7 medium format enlarger, found some dursts but can you give some advice on any model or something you have tried over the years?
Bracketing with Black and white film? Shoot a film, at all the aperture or speeds, rating film from say 25/ 50/ 100/ 200/ 400/ 800 look at contact. Make small prints on enlarger. See what you see? All will be printable! This is way to really know your film.
Shoot Film Like a Boss I assumed that it was some type of rangefinder. Can you tell me the brand/model? After watching several of your videos I went online and bought a Nettar. I’m still practicing with it. Please keep making these great videos - that are very inspiring.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Hopefully this will be my final question. How does the range finder help you if it isn't mechanically connected to the focus system?
@@MrHero0220 well it's just a focus finder consisting of moving parts. You look through and see your focus point almost ghosted, rotate the dial until the ghosting effect clears. Then read the focus indicator in meters or feet and dial that into your nettar. It's pretty accurate.
What can I do if one second of paper exposure makes a big difference in how photo looks after developing it? I got my enlarger lens set to f/11 at the moment, should I go straight to f/22 if I want to have more control on my photo exposure?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss i'm not using multigrade paper, does this apply to normal paper too? Which filters do I need? Yellow, magenta? Thanks for your help :)
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thanks mate, will give that a go. I've metered off my camera too and with my phone app but negatives still come out looking underexposed. I'm using cinestill monobath so not sure if that's something to do with it
Just about to get back into darkroom after 45 yr absence so wonderful edu vid for me on dodging and burning. I especially liked your DYI masking board. I was surprised at the amount of cloud detail you got without a yellow filter
Best of luck and have fun Ian.
Roger I am loving that print at 30.42. Another great video and again no preaching, no arrogance just film fun including mistakes and great film photography all learning together..Brilliant and entertaining.:):)
"All learning together" love that! 👍👍
Cassettes!!! and great pictures....let's call it a day :)
Superpan is great, throw an infrared filter on the front and get good separation in tones. Green scenes can look a bit too snowy though. I would urge you to upgrade the enlarger lens, Componar was Schneider's basic model with three elements. Companon is night and day and uses 6 elements, it's well renowned. Any 6 element lens is great.
wait was that a cassette walkman? dude youre straight classic. respect. really digging your episodes and process lately
Thanks for sharing your skills. I'm an old film guy from Kansas USA. Your country in on my bucket list to visit.
I imagine it's hot in Kansas with super sunsets.
Another great video. I do the same with test shots using my digital if the exposures have to be spot on. For me, gone are the days of "shoot under and over just in case" haha.
Interesting video and good to see what you can get out of such cameras. +1 for the 'bonus print'! Really liked that one!
Nice video as always! You always present things in a way that make it fun to follow your thought process on the shooting to print! Having done some darkroom work in the past and even working in a photo lab for a few years, I'm enjoying watching you work!
I have a few 35mm cameras setting about that I've acquired while collecting classic lenses to shoot with on my Sony A7III. I'm trying to get them ready to play with some B&W film again. Being an old darkroom guy I never got rid of everything and still have the Peterson tank for two 35mm rolls. I got my youngest son into photography a few years back bit he's Neve shot film so I thought I get with him sometime this spring when he's on break from university and shoot a coupe of rolls.
Hope your Son enjoys it! Old lenses on modern digital cameras are interesting.
As always .... just brilliant ! Realy enjoyed this video !
Fascinating. Thanks for sharing.
This was fascinating. Thanks for sharing. I want to get into developing and printing my film photos and this video helped massively with technique. Going back to the beginning where you mentioned you were using the video footage to remember your camera settings, there's a phone app called Analog that records all that stuff for you: Camera, film, ISO you're shooting it at., aperture, exposure, lens used, and a notes section which is where I do my best to describe the scene so I can refer to it later on. It has been invaluable to me in the field. No more fiddling around with a notebook writing down field notes
Ha, I've tried those apps. I still use my note book when I'm not filming.
wow those Orwo prints look really nice, very impressed
Great video sir! Love the effort put into making the final image. Thanks for sharing
Super workflow! Super result!
Give Richard a shout at Nik & Trick in Folkestone, Kent. They stock a wide range of film at great prices. That is the only place I have seen Orwa film.
Rollei film always seems so underrated. I shot and was really impressed with the retro 80s.
your zeiss ikon does pretty good for a old girl bonus catching the bird in flight nice one rodger
Cheers Beau!
Very interesting to see the work you do in the darkroom, definitely unique, excellent work, greetings from Chile
Thanks Yassef
Wonderful print. I always make a rough sketch of my print with the exposure time/dodge/burn written over top, just below my other notes for the print like the filter number etc, but I like that you make a print specifically to write these notes on.
i really love the second print that you called: "bonus print" :D
The best photography channel
Wow thanks!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss It's true, I have learned more in your channel than ever. Thank you.
I really do like your vids, keep doing it :)
As always good stuff!!!
Can you do a video on how to "properly" align the a 35 negative on various papers with different aspect ratio (8x10, 9x12, etc)?
That would be really nice
Cheers
Nice Print Roger! I thought you were about to get in that water like Clyde Butcher. Lol Check his work out if you've never heard of him.I admire his work.
Yeah I've seen, he's interesting! Thanks mate
I am the only one who watched the intro and thought: "Please do not drop the camera, or fall down and smash it" instead of "please don't slip and break a leg"!?!? :)
Excellent videos, keep up the excellent, excellent job!
Rollei Superpan 200 is my film of choice at the moment. If used with an infrared filter it produces extra contrast and infrared- like results in sunshine. My favourite is your “bonus print”, Roger! Thankyou for another great video. There’s no one else on UA-cam who shows darkroom work and I love your dedication to film. 👍❤️
Thanks! Yes I liked the bonus print too. Thanks for the IR tip!
agree, it's got almost as much IR sensitivity as Rollei IR 400, but with smoother grain, it's a good infrared film.
fantástico trabajo
Cracking prints :-) And another educativly entertaining video :-) How are you getting on with that rangefinder?
It works well Iain. Love it.
Super interesting video! Also did a video on this film stock, cause I really love it!
Share the link to your video
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss ua-cam.com/video/1y_1WGAYNtw/v-deo.html
Really enjoyed, from start to finish. Where did you get that awesome t-shirt?
I design my own, Makers. 😊
I'm curious which negative sleeve you are using?
I've had bad luck with 35mm sleeves that have negatives slide into... the produce scratches that show up in a high quality digital scan. I now use a single sleeve that carefully wraps around the negatives. it is on a roll like old school shops use to provide when they did the processing for customers.
the scratches probably dont show up on wet printing, especially if using products like "no scratch" liquid on the negative, or using nose oil from the body as the great printers of past use to do.
I'm not sure to be honest. my 35mm I have are many years old that I picked up from a lot sale. MF one's are off ebay. Do you have a link for the ones you use?
Vignette the Shit Out of it... Made my day :D
Haven't seen any Orwo NP22 since the 1990s. It's good stuff, I used it a lot. It has an old school look not unlike Fomapan, but superior to it in my opinion. I think the East German Orwo plant is long gone, they used to make movie film and colour slide as well as B&W. Orwo was sold mail order in the UK and very inexpensive.
Bymail Ltd. OrwoChrom UT21 £3.50 & process paid too. It needed a blue filter to kill the yellow colour cast. At a time when Agfa CT100 was £5.00 or so.
ORWO NP22 dev time was the same as HP5. The grain was not as nasty as Foma 100 can be. I think Foma 100 is best pulled down to 50 ASA in sunny conditions. The best ORWO film was NP15. 25 ASA & the dev time was the same as FP4. You needed a hardening fixer. It was very soft emulsion, same as the EFKE.
ORWO BN1 single-weight bromide paper in Agfa Neutol WA print dev. This was chloro-bromide as Agfa Record-Rapid was.
@@NJPurling That takes me back! Yes, UT21 was warm and grainy for 100 ASA film but I liked it. I used lots of NP22 but don't recall using NP15, though I liked Agfapan 25 and shot my last roll just a few years ago. Never used Orwo papers, Record Rapid and Brovira were my standards with neutral and warm tone developers. Marston and Heard at Lea Bridge Road, E10 had hard to find developers and papers, especially very small and large sizes. Bromide papers wouldn't make it past modern legislation but they produced wonderful luminous tones.
Ansel Adams did the same marking/mapping upon his test prints - for exposure purposes. For film, that's the way to proceed. Is it something you intuitively do ?
Yes, not on every print but when I have to burn or dodge different areas I'll usually make a dummy print to see where I am at then scribble notes on that print. Otherwise I'll forget. Just like making reminder notes I guess.
The Best!!
Do you remember the settings of the "bonus print" at the end? Was it also 1/200 and f16? Thanks!
Sorry Claudia I can't remember it was a while ago.
Do you shoot color film at all or 100% black & white ? BTW you inspire me to have my own darkroom in the future (next year), but can you make a video about "should begginers in film photography shoot medium format or just 35mm is enough ?" I really can't decide between those two formats and the resolution of which they can produce really makes me more confused. I intend to print at most 11×14" so 35mm seems good enough, but those damm good medium format cameras almost force me to start with them, sorry I said too much but I hope you can answer me !
I don't shoot colour, at least not yet. Medium format or 35mm for beginners? Medium format is just a larger medium. For the beginner I would suggest either. The beginner would get more for their money with 35mm with 36 exposures compared to say 15 and less developer to use and also there seems to be far more 35mm equipment on the second hand market , but the process is just the same.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thank you !
Do you ever use contrast filters on your lenses, Y,Y/G,O,R & Pol.?
I have a red and a green and use them sometimes.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Orange (+2 stops) is probably the most useful.
Off subject but do you find the hard water on the island effects your developing. Struggling with getting spotty negs. Over here in yorkshire with hard water
Stephen Rowley use wetting agent, solves many problems!
@@zapallalla aye I keep meaning to pic some up. It's hard to descrio the issues I'm having I suspect another part of it is isn't letting it dry long enough and the darkroom I have access not being the cleanest in the world
I don't, I usually get clean negs. I use a drop of wetting agent and have also used a drop of fairy liquid if I've ran out. If I do get water spots I'll gently clean the non emulsion side with a soft cloth. Try using distilled water see how you get on. I use water for clothes irons. 2L in Sainsbury's for £1
What is the add on rangefinder called you use on your camera.
It's a Rowi
Im looking for an affordable 6x7 medium format enlarger, found some dursts but can you give some advice on any model or something you have tried over the years?
I'm sorry Ramon, I've only ever used the durst m605 for MF.
Shoot Film Like a Boss np thank you for all the great content, every time I see one of your videos I end up searching for enlargers 😂
First thought when video started: "What are you doing?".
I had the same thought! Ha ha , it was very slippery, slimey and muddy.
Bracketing with Black and white film? Shoot a film, at all the aperture or speeds, rating film from say 25/ 50/ 100/ 200/ 400/ 800 look at contact. Make small prints on enlarger. See what you see? All will be printable! This is way to really know your film.
What is mounted on top of the camera?
It's a range finder.
Shoot Film Like a Boss I assumed that it was some type of rangefinder. Can you tell me the brand/model? After watching several of your videos I went online and bought a Nettar. I’m still practicing with it. Please keep making these great videos - that are very inspiring.
@@MrHero0220 it's a ROWI Range finder.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Hopefully this will be my final question. How does the range finder help you if it isn't mechanically connected to the focus system?
@@MrHero0220 well it's just a focus finder consisting of moving parts. You look through and see your focus point almost ghosted, rotate the dial until the ghosting effect clears. Then read the focus indicator in meters or feet and dial that into your nettar. It's pretty accurate.
What can I do if one second of paper exposure makes a big difference in how photo looks after developing it? I got my enlarger lens set to f/11 at the moment, should I go straight to f/22 if I want to have more control on my photo exposure?
Is the difference crushing the blacks too much?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss yeah, the photo becomes in general too dark, especially in blacks. Whites are looking quite ok
@@stempek121 you need to control the contrast using contrast filters under your enlarger. That's the answer
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss i'm not using multigrade paper, does this apply to normal paper too? Which filters do I need? Yellow, magenta? Thanks for your help :)
@@stempek121 ahh, good question. I've only used multi grade paper. I'm not sure how graded papers would react to filters.
Every time I shoot this at 200 its underexposed, would you recommend metering and shooting as though its 100 speed film?
I would if I knew my development was right and was still under exposing. Also make sure its not your light meter that is out slightly.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thanks mate, will give that a go. I've metered off my camera too and with my phone app but negatives still come out looking underexposed. I'm using cinestill monobath so not sure if that's something to do with it
@@souldigital8148 There is always variables as you know shooting film. Once you nailed it make a note and stick with it. Hope it works out.