Just came across this video and I gotta say I really like your content, plus you have a great voice which is nice to listen while I blend. I’ve been working on a classic vetiver composition so great timing too.
Be careful with the thyme. I just ruined my fougere experiment. Couldn't get rid of that medicinal thyme smell. Great vid! Amazing amount of aroma chemicals and raw materials. I really love Guerlain Vetiver edt👌
@storkonstage, It can be corrected with tarragon oil. For my experiments, I made a cocktail of oils for top notes - thyme, artemisia, Roman chamomile, tagetes minuta, basil and tarragon. Everything is one drop at a time, but the tarragon softens everything and makes it soft green and juicy. All this was diluted with linalool - the result was an interesting top note chord. You can add traces of C-14 for creaminess and to soften the prickly thyme.
Another interesting episode from a non-perfumer perspective. Guerlain Vetiver is in my top 3 fragrances. I get a distinct tobacco note. Does this combonation create that note or would it need to be added if it is actually in there?
I don't really get a tobacco note here. I have seen some formulations of Guerlain Vetiver that contains small amounts of Tobacco Absolute, but alas, it's not in this one. Still, for only 16 ingredients, its a great formula!
I love how you describe at the end.... the words you use remind me of an experienced Sommelier (wine steward) in which you would no doubt also excel in.
From the description of Vetyrisia, I would assume that it might be close to Boisiris/Woodiris/Physeol. If you could, by any chance, make a comment on the comparison I would really appreciate it. On a general note: I really value your content. Thank you so much.
Vetyrisia has more of an orris/violet vibe while Boisiris (the only molecule I have that you mention) is a bit more amber/ambrox vibe. They both seem to have a similar strength off of the strip, though I believe Vetyrisia is longer lasting than Boisiris.
If I had a gallon, I'd put part of it into a smaller container, then use that container to work with, or use that container to seed a smaller container where you can dilute it.
Tried the formula but the spicy and animalic parts were missing , so I came with this one like a modern variant Hedione 100 Vertofix 100 Vetiveryl Acetate - 100 Bergamot Synth - 160 Vetiver, Bourbon - 100 Lemon, Italy - 100 Ambrettolide HC 40 Javanol 20 Polysantol 20 Sclareolate 60 Lavender France 40/42 40 Mandarin, Italy - 50 Oakmoss (colorless) 10% - 30 Ethylene Brassylate - 20 Civet synth 10% 10 Exaltolide - 10 Musk Ketone - 10 Muscone - 10 Thyme (White) - 5 Castoreum abs 10% 5 Cashmeran 5 Bigaradier heart 3 Black pepper eo 2
I really like the scent of thyme oil. But in perfumes it actually gives a dirty note. And this note really disgusted me in the original Vetiver Guerlain. But in the EXTREME version this dirty note is not present. In my experiments, I prefer artemisia oil (armoise oil) - a very noble aroma. Ryan, you have very beautiful eyes)) it’s nice to watch you, make more videos)))) Make a video telling how the perfumes you made are doing, especially from the perfume archeology page, do you have any reviews and opinions from your friends and family? I'm planning to make L'Air du temps perfume, from perfume archeology))) let's do it together! )))
@@RyanParfums I should probably start with the ones you made a video with)))) I’m especially interested in Samsara - I got a little nectaryl from Pell Wall))) and plan to repeat your experience with a minimum number of replacements.
If u were to start with 0 ingrediesnt again and had to choose 5 to make a fragrance what would u choose? something begginer friendly easy to do good and not mess up and versatile? thanks
You can do very little with five ingredients. However, you can build the core of Baccarat Rouge 540 with just Hedione, Veramoss, Ethyl Maltol, and Ambroxan. I’d say ISO E Super and Galaxolide are on the list of “first five”, along with Hedione, Ambroxan, and Veramoss.
Just discovered your channel! Excited to dive in!
Just came across this video and I gotta say I really like your content, plus you have a great voice which is nice to listen while I blend. I’ve been working on a classic vetiver composition so great timing too.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video.
His voice…. Is divine. It’s like a fragrance for my mind.
It's one of my favorites. The Parfum is just as amazing.
Be careful with the thyme. I just ruined my fougere experiment. Couldn't get rid of that medicinal thyme smell. Great vid! Amazing amount of aroma chemicals and raw materials. I really love Guerlain Vetiver edt👌
I've yet to overdose thyme. I can imagine it doesn't play well with others when OD'd. :-)
@storkonstage, It can be corrected with tarragon oil. For my experiments, I made a cocktail of oils for top notes - thyme, artemisia, Roman chamomile, tagetes minuta, basil and tarragon. Everything is one drop at a time, but the tarragon softens everything and makes it soft green and juicy. All this was diluted with linalool - the result was an interesting top note chord. You can add traces of C-14 for creaminess and to soften the prickly thyme.
I suggest to try thymol instead than red or white thyme. Can be less off
Another interesting episode from a non-perfumer perspective. Guerlain Vetiver is in my top 3 fragrances. I get a distinct tobacco note. Does this combonation create that note or would it need to be added if it is actually in there?
I don't really get a tobacco note here. I have seen some formulations of Guerlain Vetiver that contains small amounts of Tobacco Absolute, but alas, it's not in this one. Still, for only 16 ingredients, its a great formula!
I love how you describe at the end.... the words you use remind me of an experienced Sommelier (wine steward) in which you would no doubt also excel in.
Just a small warning: 20% vetiveryl acetate is over twice the IFRA limit (which is 0.9% in the finished fragrance = 9% in a 10% EdT).
Would love to find the most economical way of reproducing the scent, so that I can add it to my unscented shaving soap
Have you ever made anything similar to Paco Rabanne pour homme?
Yes. In fact, I plan on doing a demo of the vintage juice. The stuff that contains now-banned Musk Xylene!
awesome can't wait to see it @@RyanParfums
From the description of Vetyrisia, I would assume that it might be close to Boisiris/Woodiris/Physeol. If you could, by any chance, make a comment on the comparison I would really appreciate it.
On a general note: I really value your content. Thank you so much.
Vetyrisia has more of an orris/violet vibe while Boisiris (the only molecule I have that you mention) is a bit more amber/ambrox vibe. They both seem to have a similar strength off of the strip, though I believe Vetyrisia is longer lasting than Boisiris.
Great video, appreciate your knowledgeable. I have a gallon of pure vetiver oil from Haiti, how should I dilute it for perfume making?
If I had a gallon, I'd put part of it into a smaller container, then use that container to work with, or use that container to seed a smaller container where you can dilute it.
Always love watching you vids Ryan! Can you please if you have chance to make Santal Royal by Guerlain 🙏❤️
I will certainly look for a formula.
@@RyanParfumsThanks lot Ryan!
Dolce and gabbana pour homme vintage, possible to have the formula? It's an amazing perfume.
If I find it, I'll do a video on it.
Thanks!
when did you start perfumery?
I started dabbling in late 2021.
Nice, im just starting out. Im currently building up my materials and supplies @@RyanParfums
Tried the formula but the spicy and animalic parts were missing , so I came with this one like a modern variant
Hedione 100
Vertofix 100
Vetiveryl Acetate - 100
Bergamot Synth - 160
Vetiver, Bourbon - 100
Lemon, Italy - 100
Ambrettolide HC 40
Javanol 20
Polysantol 20
Sclareolate 60
Lavender France 40/42 40
Mandarin, Italy - 50
Oakmoss (colorless) 10% - 30
Ethylene Brassylate - 20
Civet synth 10% 10
Exaltolide - 10
Musk Ketone - 10
Muscone - 10
Thyme (White) - 5
Castoreum abs 10% 5
Cashmeran 5
Bigaradier heart 3
Black pepper eo 2
Thanks for posting this. I'll have to try this blend!
Some of your bottles have caps with pipettes. Don't you have any problems with evaporating contents?
I did. I have since stopped using dropper caps.
I really like the scent of thyme oil. But in perfumes it actually gives a dirty note. And this note really disgusted me in the original Vetiver Guerlain. But in the EXTREME version this dirty note is not present. In my experiments, I prefer artemisia oil (armoise oil) - a very noble aroma.
Ryan, you have very beautiful eyes)) it’s nice to watch you, make more videos)))) Make a video telling how the perfumes you made are doing, especially from the perfume archeology page, do you have any reviews and opinions from your friends and family?
I'm planning to make L'Air du temps perfume, from perfume archeology))) let's do it together! )))
I can put L'Air du Temps on my list :-)
I can certainly do a video on how my blends have fared. I've got well over 150 now :-/
@@RyanParfums I should probably start with the ones you made a video with)))) I’m especially interested in Samsara - I got a little nectaryl from Pell Wall))) and plan to repeat your experience with a minimum number of replacements.
If u were to start with 0 ingrediesnt again and had to choose 5 to make a fragrance what would u choose? something begginer friendly easy to do good and not mess up and versatile? thanks
You can do very little with five ingredients. However, you can build the core of Baccarat Rouge 540 with just Hedione, Veramoss, Ethyl Maltol, and Ambroxan.
I’d say ISO E Super and Galaxolide are on the list of “first five”, along with Hedione, Ambroxan, and Veramoss.
What program do u use? 😊
For keeping my formulas? It's an app called Formulair, created by a UK perfumer named Sam Macer.
@@RyanParfumsthanks. Sadly it's only for apple. Do u know a Programm for Windows? 😊
JiOOOK ALWES HPY FRENSS💕 TNX jii 🏳️🌈💕🙏 CLEAR FOURMULA SCREEN CLEAR LiKE PUBLiCK OKOOK 🌹🌹 🙏 BY✍️🌲🌿🍀PWN🍀🌿🌲 MP🏳️🌈💕🙏