The point of the front pins are for a spring swap with only three screws: the two pins and one screw in the top vents. It's actually shown with three little screwdriver decals right next to the needed screws. You can pull the barrel and the mainspring without a full takedown that way.
@@matthewp5812 strange , only my first has it , other two dont , only like a month between purchases. thanks for pointing it out , now i know i have a gen one
Its going to be even faster when I finish sourcing the right size thumbscrews and heat inserts for the takedown pins for my mod vid. But now that I have seen dracs I may need to add that bigger thumb release from foam pro shop to the already extensive list of things I am doing to it haha
Those take down pins are so you can change the spring without taking the blaster apart. If you look through the top where the priming rod connects to the white piece inside the blaster there is a screw you can undo through the cut out of the shell. So, if you remove those front pins, pull out the front orange piece undo that screw, then the white piece comes out the front of the blaster with the spring so you can change it as well as the barrel without having to take the whole thing apart
I placed an order for the pump grip and bits kit, I'd really like to see a replacement hex grip like y'all made for the Nexus and Striker in the future too
I definitely can’t wait to see how you paint this one up. I think it’s definitely a top candidate for the red vinyl dye + nosferatu hydro graphics film treatment.
I think the color choice helps tie it in better. That is why I chose red for the top rail on my foamdemic kit. Need that drac bigger thumb mag release now though haha
Does this kit have any effect on the blaster's flex? I've seen reviews where they say that the plastic is kinda soft, and that's been the thing that's kept me from picking one up.
@@FurballMK3 The priming bar does flex and adding more spring weight increases the friction induced by that flex in the same way that it does on the NP it just has less contact area on the shell so it's not as much of a problem.
@@dangermaus9253 When you say priming bar do you mean the pump sled? The X Shot Longshot doesn't have a weight bearing internal linkage that really fits the definition of "priming bar". The pump sled rides along the stiff core of the aluminum barrel, and directly compresses the spring until catching on the entire plunger assembly (catch is well reinforced) within the plunger tube. The entire assembly is pulled forward toward the front of the blaster, and stays as a solid, compressed assembly until the trigger is pulled and the plunger released rearward into the plunger tube. The design of the pump sled, utilizing the rigidity of the barrel as a core, is inherently stiff and doesn't suffer much deflection even with an increased spring load. One could intentionally increase deflection by only gripping the very tip of the stock angled pump grip, but this would be unnatural, and still somewhat mitigated by the roller bearing inside the grip that runs along the base of the blaster. If worry about flex within the pump assembly still remains, a grip like the one shown by Drac in the video would absolutely minimize any flex imparted by leverage from the grip itself.
Need some help, my kid jammed up his longshot. So I took it apart to sort and can't get the trigger to work any tips in what I've done wrong and how to fix it? Thanks
Idk why you've put a massive riser on the picatinny rail, that'a gonna increase your height over bore even more than it already is. Good luck hitting anything unless you've got range ticks on your optics
I got mine to hit 300+ very consistently. It's an awesome blaster, especially after you actuslly mod it. Drc's add-on parts are pointless if you don't actually mod the blaster.
I've modded mine and I have no idea what is going on there, but it shoots great (and over 230FPS) 8 shots out of 10. Seal is almost perfect, no snags, Kuryaka barrel 50cm (and 46cm option), K25 spring BUT like 2 of every 10 shots "farts out" of the barrel, then back to a "regular" 70-90 meters flat trajectory, and very accurate one at that. Anyone able to offer feedback? I'm at a complete loss here - I'm using Zuru short darts as in UK we don't have anything else on easy access. (btw full length ones spin and tumble a lot on this setup)
It may be vacuum loading? You could try notching the pusher or putting a hole in the PT just in front of the plunger heads primed position. I'd opt for the pusher notch if the PT is weak. I would also surmise both barrels are too long for the plunger volume but couldn't be certain.
@AllinWhenPlaying, do you have the same "falling out" issue using the shorter of the barrels? I have a 45cm Kury barrel in mine and very tight PT seals, and do not have this problem.
@@dangermaus9253 I was wondering about the barrel myself but most shots are consistently incredible. Plunger should produce roughly the same force each time, so no reason why the barrels would cause just 20% of shots to be SO MUCH worse, we're talking half the range. Vacuum loading is a very probable cause, I think.
@@FurballMK3 No, both barrels behave exactly the same, which is odd, but would make the pressure related parts be a potential reason. My seal is almost perfect but not too tight, otherwise all shots would be bad I think, and even if, not by a half-range distance. I'm blaming the darts for the moment as this seems to be the only random thing. Spring theoretically could be snagging somewhere random - depending on it's rotation on the barrel's axis, but I haven;t noticed any unpleasant sound in release/prime (apart from the regular one due to the solution in this system plunger dampening).
@@AllinWhenPlaying Slight variance in dart friction can make a big difference if the barrel is slightly too long. Vacuum loading is more likely though.
Highly recommend taping the barrel holding part since that part likes to crack when the barrel doesn’t fit snug or too snug. Edit: someone needs to make a 3D printed solution for that.
The point of the front pins are for a spring swap with only three screws: the two pins and one screw in the top vents. It's actually shown with three little screwdriver decals right next to the needed screws. You can pull the barrel and the mainspring without a full takedown that way.
Not all Longshots come with the screwdriver decals.
@@matthewp5812 But they all function the same with or without the decals
It is a very nice feature Indead
@@matthewp5812 strange , only my first has it , other two dont , only like a month between purchases. thanks for pointing it out , now i know i have a gen one
Its going to be even faster when I finish sourcing the right size thumbscrews and heat inserts for the takedown pins for my mod vid. But now that I have seen dracs I may need to add that bigger thumb release from foam pro shop to the already extensive list of things I am doing to it haha
Those take down pins are so you can change the spring without taking the blaster apart. If you look through the top where the priming rod connects to the white piece inside the blaster there is a screw you can undo through the cut out of the shell. So, if you remove those front pins, pull out the front orange piece undo that screw, then the white piece comes out the front of the blaster with the spring so you can change it as well as the barrel without having to take the whole thing apart
I placed an order for the pump grip and bits kit, I'd really like to see a replacement hex grip like y'all made for the Nexus and Striker in the future too
I definitely can’t wait to see how you paint this one up. I think it’s definitely a top candidate for the red vinyl dye + nosferatu hydro graphics film treatment.
Lord Drac
Great video. The kit looks amazing.
I’m not sure how this is a mod guide when there was, in my opinion, no “mods”
It's just an ad for his kit like all his recent "mod" videos.
He doesn't even swap the plunger tube lmao
this is the best ad i have seen, i didn’t even realise it was an ad until i wanted it
No metal plunger tube?!
He's not selling the part you probably do need😂
For me the top rail makes the blaster look goofy. I’ve seen other people make these as well but I just can’t get on board with them.
I think the color choice helps tie it in better. That is why I chose red for the top rail on my foamdemic kit. Need that drac bigger thumb mag release now though haha
Modding a longshot. We've come full circle
this isn't really a mod guide drac
just bought 2 from target, they messed up on the delivery ended up sending me 4 soooooo i may have to do this to one of them
I love the Kit I just looking for it to be a Kit that turns the thing to a Halo DMR.
Does this kit have any effect on the blaster's flex? I've seen reviews where they say that the plastic is kinda soft, and that's been the thing that's kept me from picking one up.
The blaster doesn't flex during priming. When the blaster is in two halves, the shell pieces feel thin, but all buttoned up it has no issues.
@@FurballMK3 The priming bar does flex and adding more spring weight increases the friction induced by that flex in the same way that it does on the NP it just has less contact area on the shell so it's not as much of a problem.
@@dangermaus9253 When you say priming bar do you mean the pump sled? The X Shot Longshot doesn't have a weight bearing internal linkage that really fits the definition of "priming bar". The pump sled rides along the stiff core of the aluminum barrel, and directly compresses the spring until catching on the entire plunger assembly (catch is well reinforced) within the plunger tube. The entire assembly is pulled forward toward the front of the blaster, and stays as a solid, compressed assembly until the trigger is pulled and the plunger released rearward into the plunger tube.
The design of the pump sled, utilizing the rigidity of the barrel as a core, is inherently stiff and doesn't suffer much deflection even with an increased spring load. One could intentionally increase deflection by only gripping the very tip of the stock angled pump grip, but this would be unnatural, and still somewhat mitigated by the roller bearing inside the grip that runs along the base of the blaster. If worry about flex within the pump assembly still remains, a grip like the one shown by Drac in the video would absolutely minimize any flex imparted by leverage from the grip itself.
For the little mag release they had a little lever next to the trigger so you would not hit it on the way in
It would sure be swell if I could find a Longshot for sale *anywhere in Canada*
Actually just found one in a Canadian tire in Alberta
Don’t waste your money especially at Canuck prices. Ain’t worth 15$
any plans to make a stronger air tube?
Need some help, my kid jammed up his longshot. So I took it apart to sort and can't get the trigger to work any tips in what I've done wrong and how to fix it? Thanks
the pins are to remove only the front, to upgrade only the spring, as example.
Idk why you've put a massive riser on the picatinny rail, that'a gonna increase your height over bore even more than it already is. Good luck hitting anything unless you've got range ticks on your optics
Very cool video I would wanna try out this mod soon.
Yoooo I put a Crooked Cousin on mine but I might need to grab that pump grip.
The kit should never be more expensive than the blaster
Add the Aluminum plunger tube from Out of darts and it would really look sick.
Wish they would make a fly wheel blaster that looked like this
😊😅😊😊😅😅😊😅😅😊
meed metal in internals that tube it is too fragile
It looks like a halo BR if you added scope and carry rail
Is it what I think this is?
I got mine to hit 300+ very consistently. It's an awesome blaster, especially after you actuslly mod it. Drc's add-on parts are pointless if you don't actually mod the blaster.
Same here. I get in-flight catering.
I've modded mine and I have no idea what is going on there, but it shoots great (and over 230FPS) 8 shots out of 10. Seal is almost perfect, no snags, Kuryaka barrel 50cm (and 46cm option), K25 spring BUT like 2 of every 10 shots "farts out" of the barrel, then back to a "regular" 70-90 meters flat trajectory, and very accurate one at that.
Anyone able to offer feedback? I'm at a complete loss here - I'm using Zuru short darts as in UK we don't have anything else on easy access. (btw full length ones spin and tumble a lot on this setup)
It may be vacuum loading? You could try notching the pusher or putting a hole in the PT just in front of the plunger heads primed position. I'd opt for the pusher notch if the PT is weak. I would also surmise both barrels are too long for the plunger volume but couldn't be certain.
@AllinWhenPlaying, do you have the same "falling out" issue using the shorter of the barrels? I have a 45cm Kury barrel in mine and very tight PT seals, and do not have this problem.
@@dangermaus9253 I was wondering about the barrel myself but most shots are consistently incredible. Plunger should produce roughly the same force each time, so no reason why the barrels would cause just 20% of shots to be SO MUCH worse, we're talking half the range.
Vacuum loading is a very probable cause, I think.
@@FurballMK3 No, both barrels behave exactly the same, which is odd, but would make the pressure related parts be a potential reason. My seal is almost perfect but not too tight, otherwise all shots would be bad I think, and even if, not by a half-range distance.
I'm blaming the darts for the moment as this seems to be the only random thing. Spring theoretically could be snagging somewhere random - depending on it's rotation on the barrel's axis, but I haven;t noticed any unpleasant sound in release/prime (apart from the regular one due to the solution in this system plunger dampening).
@@AllinWhenPlaying Slight variance in dart friction can make a big difference if the barrel is slightly too long. Vacuum loading is more likely though.
Highly recommend taping the barrel holding part since that part likes to crack when the barrel doesn’t fit snug or too snug.
Edit: someone needs to make a 3D printed solution for that.
I've seen him before
MODERN NERF BATTLE ALONG TIME AGO
Whos got the metal internals
I looks like a Keltech KSG shotgun
Cool
From Aaron esser
Thing doesn’t work unless you mod it. Pos
first? (nope)
I
FIRST