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How to Recurve a Self Bow
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- Опубліковано 3 бер 2019
- Recurves can give your selfbow an edge in performance, but many people are daunted by the idea of bending the tips of their self bows. If it's done right it can be easy and safe. This is my method for boiling the tips and bending them on a caul. In this video I demonstrate the technique with an osage bow. I use this same technique on Pacific yew as well.
That’s a great idea; recurving after a balanced tiller has been established. That definitely would have helped my first few efforts haha.
Thanks for the honest video...I used to make fiberglass backed bows...half were recurves.
Now I'm getting into self bows and really appreciate you showing the basics on curving tips on them...i still will back with rawhide...also the tip on the tip overlays is right on,waiting til the recurves are done...thanks
Btw...the way that bow came out looks like a fred bear bow from the 30s and 40s
You're welcome! Good luck on your selfbow projects. Careful, it's addictive...
Most bow videos show the perfect way its gonna be and those have a whole lotta views but these guys are nuts. this guy shows and tells the whole story, steaming, bending, taking out mistakes by doing all the same again. me as a 10 years experienced bowyer even after steaming many bows always makes mistakes again and again cause you just cant look into the grain. Its like you wanna change a running system, its a compromise.
Damn right! The age of the stave matters a lot from my experience. Using dry heat on an old stave is asking for some belly crunching. Sometimes its even hard to bend via steam without cracking some belly wood. I use dry heat for untwisting and aligning but steam for recurving tips.
@@ndoghouse6853 its also a tricky game how long you steam cause basically youre not givin moisture into the wood but taking it out so if you steam too long the wood becomes too dry and cracks especially yew
If anybody's interested here's a list from my own experience:
Easy to heat bend: Black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia), Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna)
Moderate: Hazel (Corylus avellana), Dogwood (Cornus mas)
Very hard to heat bend: Plum (Prunus domestica), Black cherry (Prunus serotina), Elder (Sambucus nigra)
Thank you for adding that info. Always good to hear what works for other people.
You tech is good ,I myself prefer using fire a big bed of coals not only heats your wood but it adds moisture as well ,I've use fire to harden my wood and it gives the bow a little more snap when shooting.
However carry on we each have a tech that works for us.
That was awesome!
Thank you!
Thanks for taking the time to share this with us. Nicely done on this video.
Thanks again and have a blessed week.
dale
Hahaha, I´ve had a lot of fun with your video; it has make me remember my desperation when i try to bend my bows. You could have used your shoes cords!!
I can´t understand how you are talking and making the bends at the same time...
I´m going to take the freedom to ask you to proffite the alignement with the heat gun next step as a new video. It is, perhaps, something easy for you but it seems to me like certanly complicated.
Thank you very much for the video (excellent).
Thank you, glad you are enjoying the videos. I likely wont be able to make another video showing how I tweak the tip due to time constraints but I can try to explain it. I put the tip down into a bench vise with the belly of the bow facing up. I use the heat gun to heat up the belly near the curve. When it's hot I torque the bow slightly in the direction it needs to go and wait until it's cooled.
@@SwiftwoodBows Thank you for your answer. The problem I have when I try to fix some misalignment like this, with heat near the recurve, is that the same heat undoes the recurve. Then I have to bend it again hoping the limb not to misalign again.
Great instructions, respective to the material. Very organic.
🙏🙂👍🇨🇦🙏
thank you
I've had similar issues with the limb tips lining up after recurving. Might I suggest leaving the tips full width till after they are bent.? This produces a flatter, straighter, more even bend for me. And I line the tips up by removing wood from the sides until the string lines up proper. I've managed to avoid any further heat bending/straightening this way.
If you want to add extra snap ,you can use use 2-3 layers of 3m fiberglass material and a good resin and your bow will benefit with speed increase
What fiberglass material are you talking about specifically?
Electrical conduits….Steele pipe, maybe 2” or 3” diameter. Outside, kettle blow steam into pipe. The pipe is your heating chamber. You can do a section or steam the entire stave.
Excellant job! Very informative
Thank you
Awesome video sir. Gonna try this method next
Thanks, good luck on your recurves.
Very cool man 😎👍🔥🏹💯
Buenos videos gracias por su birlos excelentes videos gracias
Thank you sir very informative🙌🙌🙌
You're welcome!
Great video...thanks
Thank you and you're welcome
That kitchen is flowing like sun.
Have you tested FPS before and after recurring the tips? I’m curious on the performance increase.
Yes me too
I haven't. someday I'll get a chronograph to play around with but I haven't yet.
Great info Wylan we sure apricate your insight with each video you share. If it isn't to late could you continue this video with taking twist out? I have used this technique with boiling water and has worked great for me. I have had issues with taking twist out of certain types of woods so I was just wanting to see your techniques. Thanks in advance.
Side note : Hickory ,Osage ,elm and hawthorn are woods I have worked with mostly as you know they all take heat differently .
Great tutorial. I used to boil my bow wood as well. Than I simplified it as I like to build bows that are similar to being built under primitive conditions. Not saying you couldn’t boil bow wood out in the forest. I’m silly like that. So I started using grease and open heat (coals). I seldom recurve a bow. The last one I did was for a customer in CT, and it was a fully bending bow.
I guess i’m just stuck on straight-stave designs. Cool recurve jig too. You built that, right?
Thanks!
-Aaron
That's cool! I've wanted to try a open coal method like that just to expand my experience.
Nice job👍
Amazing
Thank you!
Gracias por su birlos
I very seldom add a recurve to my bows. I guess it's just a personal preference and I like my bows straight. That being said, I have recurved a few including a couple of Red Oak bows and never had any failure doing it. In my experience, though, Red Oak has a tendency to spring back over time.
Also would there be any benefit to seting the curve with heat ... Tempering to get the water out
There is a benefit. It will help the curve hold better, though osage doesn't really need that but yew benefits from it. i don't believe that boiling or steaming adds moisture to the bow, if anything it drives some out. It seems counter intuitive but the the heat is a bigger factor on moisture loss than the brief exposure to water is on adding moisture. That was worded poorly but I hope you see what I'm getting at.
Hi Weylin, fantastic stuff! All your vids are a great source of knowledge to me - thanks for sharing💪🏹
When bending yew...After the wood has cooled down in the form, for how long do you heat the yew to set the curve strong? You mention you do this, when recurving yew👌😊
You're welcome. Thanks for the feedback. Just long enough to get it good and hot, no discoloration or scorching.
@Swiftwood Bows thank you very much for your kind reply. I'm going to do this on my current yew bow, I am working on👌
Try putting to guides on the sides of your bow form fixed my twist problems bro
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, very helpful video.. Excuse me, one question, how does iron wood take to this method?
Have you ever tried to recurve an ipe bow? I made one for a friend a few years ago and tried to recurve it. Heat doesn't work and neither does steam, regardless of how long you leave it in the steam box. I believe the wood is just too dense to bend. If you have ever bent one or saw one bent, I would be interested in learning what worked for you.
Now, that's a Static Recurve? (I think it is.) So, how do we get it Bending Correctly"? Not to much or to little? How do we know when it's just right? Can we see it on a force/ draw curve?
Hello again.
I use to let a little thicker the whole segment I'm bending, because I have the filling it will need this extra thickness to mantein the induced new shape and also for not allowing it to be a dinamic recurve, forcing it to be a static recurve (as I like).
Do you think it's necessary to do it as I say or maybe it's bot necessary to make it thicker?.
I think you have the right idea. With practice you'll learn a good middle ground so that it is thin enough to bend easily but thick enough to remain static.
If there is ever a split or crack, do you glue it up or is it ruined?? Thanks much
Maybe the method doesnt matter that much, coze what does matter is to get the cellulose heated to the +-95degrees celsius and that will change the structure for bending. It takes about one hour for 1cm to get heated.
Question, I want to make an Osage and bamboo backed recurve bow. Do you glue the bamboo and Osage together then recurve or do you recurve each piece first and then glue?
Recurve first. Once you've glued it up you don't want to do anymore heating. It's bad for the glue joint and could cause the glue to fail.
Thank you
But how would you tiller it then
@@LMvdB02 You shape the back, and the sides. Then you bend. Then you glue, and finally you tiller while only removing material from the belly. You might instead shape the sides after bending, but before gluing
Could you do this effectively with a maple board? Or white oak? Thanks!
Would have been nice to see it being used . Nice work.
I have a good amount of videos that show my bows being shot, just poke around and you'll find some. I'm shooting a recurve in my video on how to shoot a selfbow.
Can you do a video of how you make your recurve form?
It's on my list of videos to do. Thanks for the suggestion.
What is your recommendation for bending hickory? Can I use same method?
I've only tired a heat gun. My concern was with adding too much moisture back in from the steam or water. Thanks for addressing that.
Would you use steam/boiling or dry heat for hickory?
I've never tried sharp hooks on hickory. If I was going to try it I would boil them.
nice
Hey great video,
I was wondering if it is also possible to make a recurve bow out of ash, since osage orange can be hard to come by in Europe. Do you have any experience with that or could you give recommendations? Can Ash handle the additional stress to the wood?
Great video! Thanks for posting. I’m going to try your immersion method on my next bend job. I have used steaming after having problems with dry heat. I believe dry heat only works on Osage, but steaming is better in my opinion.
Smith bla. With regards to ash. Yes, I have recently steamed the tips into a recurve ( not 90 degrees though ), also called flip tips, on an ash selfbow I made, English longbow style. It worked out great, and shoots great.
I steamed them 1 at a time, over a pot of boiling water for 30 minutes. I used a roll of fencing my wife had that has about a 7 inch diameter to bend the tips over. After the bend was done I held it in place for about 10 to 15 minutes. Then when both were done I set it aside for 1 day, and finished tillering the bow. The bow was basically pretty close to tillered before I steamed the tips. Good luck to you! Merry
Try yew. It's poisonous though
@@KingoftheJiangl I'm in Ireland here, can't get osage unfortunately and buying a stave online would cost a fortune. Have two yew tress I'm gonna saw down but it's gonna be a long wait on it to season. Ash should work fine for now, and it's plentiful hereas hurls are made from it. Quite flexible too, especially with a fibreglass backing
Would you recommend steam or dry heat for vine maple? Does it respond to recurved tips well? Also any tips for correcting a sideways warp? Thank you.
I'd use the boiling method on vine maple. It isn't as cooperative as osage or yew. You might have issues trying to get a tight static recurve. You'll most likely be fine with a modest reflexed tip though as long as there aren't any finny things happening in the grain. For sideways warp I'd use a heatgun and clamps to correct it. Always heat the belly with the heat gun. Vine maple can be a bit stubborn and will sometimes creep back.
Hey Weylin, just wanted to say that your videos were a gamechanger. I broke the first two bows, but now with your tips I'm almost done with my first bow. I'm currently at 23" @ 50#, but the tips are a little bendy. What do you mean by keeping a straight limb? Do you mean that it shouldn't taper towards the tips? Is it too late to bend the tips? I'm working with a white oak boardbow. Also how do you avoid twisting straight limbs?
You tn
Is that a Two by six that you put your bow in.
What would happen if you poured cold water over the steamed re-curve to cool the wood faster???
Same thing that happens to most hot things that you pour cold water on them, cracking, splintering.
Does recurving selfbows increase speed? I think yes and seen proof but others say nope it would have a negative affect on something so holy as YEW....
A well designed recurve will be a bit faster than most other designs
@@SwiftwoodBows thanks for the quick reply
Have you tried this method with eastern red cedar or other types of wood
No, I've only used this on osage and yew. I'm sure others have used it on other woods but I can't personally give you advice on how it would turn out. Every type of wood reacts a little differently.
Wow!Thumbs up for the video! I was wondering if there is another way to recurve the bow, since I dont know how to get that piece of wood. Would you help me? I have been searching for a different method for a decade
Ps sorry my english is not that good
Hey there, Thank you. I'm sorry. I'm not quite sure what you're asking me. Could you say your question differently?
@@SwiftwoodBows oh well, of course I do thanks for your help. The problem is that I haven't the piece of wood you are using in the video to recurve the limbs of the bow (7.35). Therefore i am looking for another way to recurve, do you know any other method? Thank you in advance 😃
Ah, you're talking about the caul (form, jig, etc.) It's very easy to make out of an old board. If you can't do that then there are other ways. You can even find two trees that are growing close together, stick the tip between the trees and bend the bow around one of the trees. It will be harder to get everything perfectly consistent but it works.
@@SwiftwoodBows ok thank you very much, if you get to know any other method would you please make a video about it?
hello, it's rattan or another species of wood, thank you cordially ..Dom
In this video I used Osage orange (malcura pomifera) I've never used rattan before
Hey sir, need some more wisdom. Working on another oak bow. This time I used white oak instead of red. Got the tips to steam bend without any cracking or anything. Left them on the form for a full day and they held their shape well. The issue I have now (that I only realized after stringing it up) is that one of the limb tips is twisted. So the string doesn’t lay evenly; kinda stays to the left. I’ve already re-steamed/bended that tip once, and made it better, but it’s still not straight on like it should be. Should I attempt to repeat the process, or try dry heat and counter weight? I’m apprehensive about both options. With the re-steaming I feel like I risk snapping the tip. With dry heat and weight, I’m afraid to twist the actual limb itself, even if that makes the tip straight. Basically fixing one problem by creating another. Does that make sense? Any advice would be much appreciated
I would use dry heat. I like to use clamps or vise's as opposed to counter weights. I feel like I have more control and less chance of something slipping suddenly. Keep the heat fairly localized and that is where it will untwist. The rest of the limb should be fine. Make sure it's set up in a way that doesn't allow the recurve to relax while you're heating.
@@SwiftwoodBows Thank you so much. I will give it a shot!
@@SwiftwoodBows is it necessary to use oil when heating with the heat gun?
@@christopheriseri8087 I don't. I know some people like it and it may help in some way but I haven't found it necessary and I don't want it messing up things like stain later on if I go that route.
Can you make a video on how ypu make your recurve jig?
I will add that to my list of video ideas
@@SwiftwoodBows awsome man thx. I make alot of trad bows myself. Im from arizona so i make alot of apache style bows with a gulwing type flex but i just use my knee. I do want to make other style recurve just havent had the chance yet
I like your bows do you sale them?
I do. Please visit my site swiftwoodbows.com
I just have a question for you. Can you steam bend wood after it’s been stained with Minwax and the backing has been painted? I realized after I had stained my bow that the recurve didn’t hold; I guess I didn’t leave it in the form long enough. It’s a red oak bow
You can try, you may just have to plan on repairing the paint and stain in that area if it gets messed up. It might be fine but it might not. I haven't tried it.
@@SwiftwoodBows I appreciate the quick response. Yeah, I’m fine repairing the paint and stain; I just didn’t want to risk the heat and moisture not getting into the wood from the steam because of the stain. Wouldn’t want to crack the tips after all that work lol
@@christopheriseri8087 I don't think the paint or stain will interfere with the heat transfer or bending at all. Red oak is notoriously challenging to bend without cracking but if it does it won't be because of the finish or paint.
@@SwiftwoodBows gotcha. Besides Osage, what other hardwoods are good for bending? Will maple work?
@@christopheriseri8087 most whitewoods will bend, they just are not as easy as Osage. Maple should do fine. Just make sure they are fairly thin and have an even thickness. You can use a steel strip on the belly side when you bend to help keep splinters from lifting. I think it can help.
Does anyone have or know the dimensions/plans for this Jig, or one likek it?
He says in the video that its not really an exact science, I would take a look at his again and try to imitate it as close as you can
How does this method work well with hickory?
good question. I haven't attempted sharp recurves on hickory. It's not as cooperative with bending as osage or yew. If I was going to attempt it I would use the boiling method but I think it will be more prone to splintering with extreme bends. If you try it, let me know how it goes.
@@SwiftwoodBows might be inclined to back it with sinue? Will get back to you, cheers mate.
I have done it with hickory and it is not too terribly aggravating. Use clamps and patience.
Which wood you used here??
Syed Wamique Masood I’m pretty sure it’s Osage orange
Yes, john is right this is Osage orange, malcura pomifera
Can you use same technique on board bows?
theoretically, yes. It can depend a lot on the type of wood and the grain orientation. A lot of the woods that are common board bow woods aren't always the most cooperative with extreme bends. They are more prone to splintering because there are more grain runoffs. I haven't done much with board bows myself so I'm not the expert on bending them. There is a board bow building group on facebook that could answer that question more thoroughly than I can.
If there is more than one way to skin a cat can you show us one? ;^)
Donc pardonnez-moi mais des fois ces vidéos sont beaucoup trop ennuyant pour fabriquer juste un arc qu'il faut même dix parti ou même plus que ça wesh c'est trop nul
I bought plans from Woodprix and I did it very quickly.