Lucky I found this video; I was tearing my hair out over the shank installation until I saw how you did it, and saw the order of shank, washer,nut and duotight connector, as well as the silly foam insert. I only had two shanks to install in my tower, but the tower is even more narrow and not much room there to wrestle the shanks in place. Thanks!
Happy someone caught the puns. I was nervous as this was a big video with a ton of stuff to cover. I'll be doing another video down the road comparing the kegerator to my keezer. I felt the Kegerator would blow my keezer away, but honestly, there are a lot of pros and cons in both directions. I'm not getting rid of my keezer anytime soon. 😀
Actually, I considered those first as they go up to as high as 90 psi, but they are $15 vs the analog versions that are only $7 each. 5 x 15 = $75 vs 5 x 7 = $35. Part was costs, but I'd also seen some rough reviews on the digital ones that had me a little concerned. I know the analog ones can be off too as I have one that is off, but I just felt more comfortable paying a lot less.
I use the digitals on all 4 of my secondaries as my gas board is in a really awkward place. I did get 3 of them direct (well Kegland China) so were much cheaper but not sure if that's an option for you They are a bit fiddly to start with (but I think part of that is the visibility and desire for absolute accuracy over analogue gauges), but after a few uses you can set them perfect. I'd definitely recommend getting one to try it out.
Hopefully you didn't have the same towers as it was rough on my hands and knuckles. Looks great and I think simply lowering the air duct tubing will reduce the condensation issues I'm seeing.
I didn't think about that, and I'm a big fan of rivets, as I've used them for hanging screen doors and have used them for other things over the years with great success. Thank you for the suggestion.
Hi Mike, great tips throughout video! If you want some insurance that the collars on the duotight fittings keep the tubing locked in, consider purchasing some of the little blue locking clips that go around the collars. It keeps the collar pushed out so there's no chance the tubing works itself loose. I got mine from Value Brew but MoreBeer also sells them. You have a lot of connections so maybe the ones that are getting moved around frequently inside the kegerator would be a good place to start if you wanted to try them. Cheers!
I actually have some locks, but need to order some more. I had a slow leak shortly after this but found it. I've seen those locks for stupid cheap on Amazon and will probably score some there.
You might consider using blind nuts installed in the backside of your backer board to hold your secondaries with machine screws. I also wondered if you considered the backlit duotight LCD meters - the batteries are supposed to last a year. So jelly - that's a nice kegerator. I built my keezer from a sears 7 cu ft freezer...have a lot of the same parts. If I did it again, I'd probably go for a "tombstone" style instead of the collar I built. It'll be interesting to hear if you have issues with keeping the towers cold enough - might need some computer fans to assist. The condensation can be overcome by using a circle of styrofoam insulation inside the top caps. I had to add a circulation fan in mine to eliminate heat stratification in my kegs. Cheers!
Don't get too jelly, as I'm looking to do a video comparing the Komos Kegerator to the Keezer I custom-built. Honestly, I thought the Komos would blow away my custom-built keezer, but there are some significant Pros and Cons with both systems. As for the towers, I think they are too cold, and I backed the air tubes down a bit which seems to have helped with the condensation forming on them. The blind nuts are a great idea, but I'll eventually just go to the painted plywood. I would have gone to the LCDs, but they are a bit expensive, and having to change batteries once a year is another negative as I have too many things around my house that require batteries already. Shockingly, I had an air leak and about 68 points in the Duotight air side that could have been the cause but it was actually the top of one of the air disconnects that was loose out of the box (The top part where you take it apart to clean it). I had to use a pair of pliers to tighten it up.
@@BitterRealityBrewing Great points. I didn't catch that the towers had tube injectors - that can make them too cold. I guess the whole unit is like 32" square? (I wondered how you get 8 kegs in there - maybe it just looks small?) - It's way too much for me - I don't want to have 40 gallons of brew on tap...too dangerous and would make me feel like I have to keep too much brewing/fermenting going to keep it topped off. The mention of using the circlips is a good one for all the duotights - especially the hard to service ones. Since you used nukataps and intertaps - Which works better? I am thinking of expanding my taps and replacing a cheap Krome tap...Right now I want some more intertaps unless there is a real benefit. Can't wait to see the final analysis video!
@@jcinsaniac It is very tight inside the kegerator and just enough for the 8 kegs. As for Intertap and Nukatap, I own at least 7+ of each of them. First, the addon tips work on both systems. I prefer Nukatap for a few reasons. When I first bought Intertap taps with flow control, I had 2 that were defective due to poor machining, and it was a bit of a pain to get them swapped out as I had to send photos to prove holes were drilled in the wrong places. So far, I haven't had any issues with the Nukatap. Plus, with the Intertaps, the flow control seems inconsistent on each tap I've purchased, which tells me things are held to a high standard. With the Nukataps, the flow control is very consistent, plus I feel the flow seems much smoother too. Not sure if they use the same rubber/silicone o-rings, but just in case, never get the o-ring in the front (where the spigot screws in) too hot during cleaning otherwise, it expands and never shrinks back. I accidentally did with one of the seals from my Intertap in very hot tap water (from the faucet, so 122F or lower) and it expanded, and I ended up having to order some o-ring replacements to fix it. I also have one older Intertap that is in a box, as the flow control part just never worked correctly. Summary: NukaTap (SS) without question as the black ones scare me that the coating might eventually come off.
@@BitterRealityBrewing Have the same misgivings about the NukaTap Black units. All my Intertaps are not flow regulating and I have found that Intertaps don't play well with any shanks other than Intertap branded shanks - they won't seal for me. I also have had a run-in with the o ring between the faucet and the nozzles - I found that a pack of o rings I bought for replacement seals on a mini regulator fit perfectly - so I replaced the damaged seal with that. Totally agree - those specialty serving ends that make the intertap/nukatap so versatile also have an Achilles' heel in those o-rings - easy to damage, destroy or deform. Maybe those new shuttles in the NukaTaps are worth a look and contribute to better overall flow control. Thanks for your insights!
@@jcinsaniac My Intertaps at full flow are very slow to flow, and was thinking it was the 8 MM OD 4 MM ID EVA Barrier tubing until I put the Nukataps into play and was shocked with a nice consistent flow of beer. On the new Kegerator, the flow is very, very smooth and consistent. Feel bad, I was originally blaming the EVA Barrier tubing. (Didn't announce it as I was still trying to prove what was the problem without a doubt. Now, I can easily say it has something to do with the Intertaps.)
Great video! Prior to installing the towers, could you tell if there were are any coolant or electrical lines running through the top of the kegerator? I'd like to install a Micro Matic 30" Stainless Steel Glass Rinser Drain Tray on top of a KOMOS Double-Wide 8-tap Kegerator. I'll need to cut a pair of holes (for the drain and rinser water) through the (plastic) top of the kegerator. I'd like to think I'll be able to carefully avoid any hazards. Thoughts?
I am about 99% sure there wasn't anything going through the top and about 90% sure there wasn't anything going through the bottom, but I would recommend making cuts in the sides (some areas might be safe), and the back is almost 100% cooling coils. If I don't chime back in tomorrow by noon (Eastern) with anything different, you are good. The bottom has a plate of steal to help keep from scratching up the bottom.
@@BitterRealityBrewing Thank you for the prompt reply! The Micro Matic 30" Stainless Steel Glass Rinser Drain Tray (DP-120D-30GR) has a 3-1/2" long x 1/2" ID threaded drain and a slightly shorter 1/2" BSP water connection. I will need to cut a pair of holes through the top of the kegerator to pass the drain and water connection. The plan is to supply (reverse-osmosis) water to the rinser via a 1/4" O.D. supply line. This line would enter via one of the existing CO2 holes (along with several 8mm O.D. CO2 supply lines as you've done) on the back of the kegerator in the upper right or left corner. The drain line would exit via the other CO2 hole in the adjacent corner. I'm not sure what size drain line the existing CO2 hole will allow, but I shouldn't need much in the way of I.D. to pass the water from the rinser and what little beer may collect in the tray. I'm thinking I can carefully cut the holes through the top of the kegerator using a small hole saw without a pilot bit. I assume the top is comprised of two sheets of plastic likely separated by some form of insulation. Once I get through the topmost sheet of plastic, I can confirm there aren't any coolant or electrical lines in the area. If there are, I assume I'll be able to move them out of the way before drilling through the bottom sheet of plastic. Sound like a plan? Any suggestions?
This is the longest video I ever did which isn't a good thing on YT, but I felt it might help some people and needed to be done. I'm happy you enjoyed the puns/funnies as it was hard to say a lot of those things without snickering. Plus, I'm one of those people that loves to make others smile as you could probably tell from my T-Shirt.
Most people probably don't need more than 4 taps, as I feel an 8 tap is more for entertaining, which is what I'm planning to use it for. Sadly as this is new, I can't tell you at this point, but I can give you a timetable for my Keezer, which has 7 active taps. Keep in mind I give away the majority of my beer, but sometimes I either am not impressed, like it too much to share it out in any volume or just don't have the time or the bottles to share it out. I'd have to say most beers don't last more than 2 to 3 months at most, but sometimes I'll let a dark brew go an easy 4 to 6 months. Ultimately, I'm looking to have other things on tap beyond Beer and Ciders, like Kumbucha, Hop Water, and maybe a wine or hard tea.
I have a keg land 4 keg/tap kegerator. Pretty much identical to yours. Albeit half the size. I ran my gas line inside and then split it. I do not have in-line regs. You will find that a keg land carbonation fitting (same as on the all rounders) will screw directly on to the hole in the back of the kegerator. The barb on the carb fitting that sticks inside is the right size for the Duo Tight fittings. That way your gas line can be hooked to your kegerator with a ball lock fitting, Makes it super simple to switch co2 tanks.
I full get what you are saying but swapping the CO2 tanks based on the way I have it is pretty easy. I did have a leak with this system and finally located it. The leak was the actual Duotight gas disconnect, which I had to use a pair of pliers to tighten to stop the leak. I just found it funny that I had about 65 points of failure (spots where I plugged in a duotight) and the actual duotight was the problem.
It is called Sealing Clay - amzn.to/3OezCRA I only used part of one packet. If you are in Jacksonville, FL, I'd give you a packet for free as this stuff is crazy cheap. It does harden a little over time, but I have 6 more packets and the first one has been in there for about 1.5 years and still doing a great job.
Thank you. I know it was a long video, but if it helps anyone, it will be worth it. The Komos came with those which were 6.35 mm to 8 mm Duotight. (6.35 is for the nipple on the shank.)
awesome video. I bought a used kegland series 4 kegorator. Planned on ripping everything out so I can have new innards. Bought all of the stuff you are talking about except for the 15 psi pressure gauge. Guess what I just purchased? :)
Yeah, age isn't nice to your vision and those 60 psi gauges are a bit hard to read if you like to dial in your psi. I'm still testing for a few minor slow leaks but hope to have it solid after this weekend.
😂For personal a 2 to 3 tap system is perfect. I do a ton of brewing and share most of my beer, so having 8 taps is perfect. The Komos is really nice, but I did hate how the tower installation was designed as it was the most difficult part.
@@BitterRealityBrewing I finally pulled the trigger on the system, and went with 4 tap. I made sure to let MoreBeer know it was based on this video!!!!
This is an older (but excellent!) video and idk if you're still watching the comments, but if so: have you managed to get 8 cornys in your double-wide kegerator? Just set mine up (same model as yours) and can't for the life of me figure out how it is possible. Even the slimline torpedo kegs are more than 8 inches in diameter, and the interior is only 31" wide! The only configuration for 8 that makes sense is 4-wide and 2-deep, but 4 cornys wide is at LEAST 33" - probably closer to 34". What am I missing here?
When I was doing the video, I joked as I could easily see someone tossing that out as packing material without questioning it. And then weeks later, go to build the kegerator only to realize they threw it away. Sounds like I was right. So, far I am very impressed with the system.
I have a duel Komos kegerator for 2months now. Do you have a problem with it being very noisy, my compressor turns on fine but after a minute of running it’s starts making a whirlwind sound that gets louder as it runs . I didn’t realize it was that noisy. Do you have any issues with this kind of noise? Loved the video 🤓
I feel mine is pretty quiet. Is it the compressor or the fan? I ask because the fan on my glycol system gets noisy from time to time due to a very minor alignment issue on the fan. It is not something I'm too worried about, but it can be annoying. If it becomes a major concern or gets louder, reach out to Komos before the warranty expires. The compressor does worry me, as most people say you can just swap them out, but that seems to be common with all of them.
I just built the 4 tap and that tower was a pain, and the instructions skipped the tower gasket. Its honestly a perfect example of minimum viable product. There was no care or dedication in its creation. It's fine,it could be great
Agree, as my instructions were old vs the actual system I got. After, I showed my wife the special screw driver and screw holder I bought just to put it together, she was like why do you have to buy special tools?. I was like, that is the only way I'm ever going to get this thing put together. She said, that sounds like either a bad design, or bad planning on the designers part, not to include the required tools to assemble something like that. I get it, that they wanted to hide the screws and make it a a lot cleaner of a build, but it was a small nightmare to get all those d@mn screws installed. I still like the Komos and new visitors to my brew space always seem to think it looks amazing, but it does use about 2.5 times the amount of electricity compared to my DIY keezer which supports 7 kegs.
Sure, no biggy :) I am a Toolmaker, assembled Injection-Molding-Tools since about 20 years. I know the problem. Thats why i had to come up with a lot of different ways to srew and unscrew in nearly impossible situations.. Superglue, oil, clay, stickytape, suliver... many "tools " for many different problems.. keeps the head/brain in action... :) .. btw. i like your channel and videos. Just a beginner right now ... starting because i love beer but dont trust the big companys anymore. If i make my own beer i know exactly what is in the beer. If you buy from the big companys you can be sure you are consuming harmful chemicals.... @@BitterRealityBrewing
Lucky I found this video; I was tearing my hair out over the shank installation until I saw how you did it, and saw the order of shank, washer,nut and duotight connector, as well as the silly foam insert. I only had two shanks to install in my tower, but the tower is even more narrow and not much room there to wrestle the shanks in place. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing this build video. Maybe one day I'll purchase one. For now I'm happy what I have. Thanks for the puns, that made my day. Cheers!
Happy someone caught the puns. I was nervous as this was a big video with a ton of stuff to cover. I'll be doing another video down the road comparing the kegerator to my keezer. I felt the Kegerator would blow my keezer away, but honestly, there are a lot of pros and cons in both directions. I'm not getting rid of my keezer anytime soon. 😀
🍻 🍻Komos Kegerators at MoreBeer! - www.morebeer.com/index?a_aid=bitterreality (affiliate link)
Super cool!
I believe Kegland's digital psi gauges fit into the same valves and should be easier to read.
Actually, I considered those first as they go up to as high as 90 psi, but they are $15 vs the analog versions that are only $7 each. 5 x 15 = $75 vs 5 x 7 = $35. Part was costs, but I'd also seen some rough reviews on the digital ones that had me a little concerned. I know the analog ones can be off too as I have one that is off, but I just felt more comfortable paying a lot less.
I use the digitals on all 4 of my secondaries as my gas board is in a really awkward place. I did get 3 of them direct (well Kegland China) so were much cheaper but not sure if that's an option for you They are a bit fiddly to start with (but I think part of that is the visibility and desire for absolute accuracy over analogue gauges), but after a few uses you can set them perfect. I'd definitely recommend getting one to try it out.
I wish I saw this vid before I got my Komos. Thanks for the tips.
Hopefully you didn't have the same towers as it was rough on my hands and knuckles. Looks great and I think simply lowering the air duct tubing will reduce the condensation issues I'm seeing.
@@BitterRealityBrewing I did indeed have the same towers.
Try rivets instead of the screws for the fiber board.
I didn't think about that, and I'm a big fan of rivets, as I've used them for hanging screen doors and have used them for other things over the years with great success. Thank you for the suggestion.
Hi Mike, great tips throughout video! If you want some insurance that the collars on the duotight fittings keep the tubing locked in, consider purchasing some of the little blue locking clips that go around the collars. It keeps the collar pushed out so there's no chance the tubing works itself loose. I got mine from Value Brew but MoreBeer also sells them. You have a lot of connections so maybe the ones that are getting moved around frequently inside the kegerator would be a good place to start if you wanted to try them. Cheers!
I actually have some locks, but need to order some more. I had a slow leak shortly after this but found it. I've seen those locks for stupid cheap on Amazon and will probably score some there.
The new brew space looks great!
Thank you as it is like a dream come true but sadly I'm not the most organized person, so I am still optimizing the space.
You might consider using blind nuts installed in the backside of your backer board to hold your secondaries with machine screws. I also wondered if you considered the backlit duotight LCD meters - the batteries are supposed to last a year. So jelly - that's a nice kegerator. I built my keezer from a sears 7 cu ft freezer...have a lot of the same parts. If I did it again, I'd probably go for a "tombstone" style instead of the collar I built. It'll be interesting to hear if you have issues with keeping the towers cold enough - might need some computer fans to assist. The condensation can be overcome by using a circle of styrofoam insulation inside the top caps. I had to add a circulation fan in mine to eliminate heat stratification in my kegs. Cheers!
Don't get too jelly, as I'm looking to do a video comparing the Komos Kegerator to the Keezer I custom-built. Honestly, I thought the Komos would blow away my custom-built keezer, but there are some significant Pros and Cons with both systems. As for the towers, I think they are too cold, and I backed the air tubes down a bit which seems to have helped with the condensation forming on them. The blind nuts are a great idea, but I'll eventually just go to the painted plywood. I would have gone to the LCDs, but they are a bit expensive, and having to change batteries once a year is another negative as I have too many things around my house that require batteries already. Shockingly, I had an air leak and about 68 points in the Duotight air side that could have been the cause but it was actually the top of one of the air disconnects that was loose out of the box (The top part where you take it apart to clean it). I had to use a pair of pliers to tighten it up.
@@BitterRealityBrewing Great points. I didn't catch that the towers had tube injectors - that can make them too cold. I guess the whole unit is like 32" square? (I wondered how you get 8 kegs in there - maybe it just looks small?) - It's way too much for me - I don't want to have 40 gallons of brew on tap...too dangerous and would make me feel like I have to keep too much brewing/fermenting going to keep it topped off. The mention of using the circlips is a good one for all the duotights - especially the hard to service ones. Since you used nukataps and intertaps - Which works better? I am thinking of expanding my taps and replacing a cheap Krome tap...Right now I want some more intertaps unless there is a real benefit. Can't wait to see the final analysis video!
@@jcinsaniac It is very tight inside the kegerator and just enough for the 8 kegs. As for Intertap and Nukatap, I own at least 7+ of each of them. First, the addon tips work on both systems. I prefer Nukatap for a few reasons. When I first bought Intertap taps with flow control, I had 2 that were defective due to poor machining, and it was a bit of a pain to get them swapped out as I had to send photos to prove holes were drilled in the wrong places. So far, I haven't had any issues with the Nukatap. Plus, with the Intertaps, the flow control seems inconsistent on each tap I've purchased, which tells me things are held to a high standard. With the Nukataps, the flow control is very consistent, plus I feel the flow seems much smoother too. Not sure if they use the same rubber/silicone o-rings, but just in case, never get the o-ring in the front (where the spigot screws in) too hot during cleaning otherwise, it expands and never shrinks back. I accidentally did with one of the seals from my Intertap in very hot tap water (from the faucet, so 122F or lower) and it expanded, and I ended up having to order some o-ring replacements to fix it. I also have one older Intertap that is in a box, as the flow control part just never worked correctly. Summary: NukaTap (SS) without question as the black ones scare me that the coating might eventually come off.
@@BitterRealityBrewing Have the same misgivings about the NukaTap Black units. All my Intertaps are not flow regulating and I have found that Intertaps don't play well with any shanks other than Intertap branded shanks - they won't seal for me. I also have had a run-in with the o ring between the faucet and the nozzles - I found that a pack of o rings I bought for replacement seals on a mini regulator fit perfectly - so I replaced the damaged seal with that. Totally agree - those specialty serving ends that make the intertap/nukatap so versatile also have an Achilles' heel in those o-rings - easy to damage, destroy or deform. Maybe those new shuttles in the NukaTaps are worth a look and contribute to better overall flow control. Thanks for your insights!
@@jcinsaniac My Intertaps at full flow are very slow to flow, and was thinking it was the 8 MM OD 4 MM ID EVA Barrier tubing until I put the Nukataps into play and was shocked with a nice consistent flow of beer. On the new Kegerator, the flow is very, very smooth and consistent. Feel bad, I was originally blaming the EVA Barrier tubing. (Didn't announce it as I was still trying to prove what was the problem without a doubt. Now, I can easily say it has something to do with the Intertaps.)
Great video!
Prior to installing the towers, could you tell if there were are any coolant or electrical lines running through the top of the kegerator? I'd like to install a Micro Matic 30" Stainless Steel Glass Rinser Drain Tray on top of a KOMOS Double-Wide 8-tap Kegerator. I'll need to cut a pair of holes (for the drain and rinser water) through the (plastic) top of the kegerator. I'd like to think I'll be able to carefully avoid any hazards. Thoughts?
I am about 99% sure there wasn't anything going through the top and about 90% sure there wasn't anything going through the bottom, but I would recommend making cuts in the sides (some areas might be safe), and the back is almost 100% cooling coils. If I don't chime back in tomorrow by noon (Eastern) with anything different, you are good. The bottom has a plate of steal to help keep from scratching up the bottom.
@@BitterRealityBrewing Thank you for the prompt reply!
The Micro Matic 30" Stainless Steel Glass Rinser Drain Tray (DP-120D-30GR) has a 3-1/2" long x 1/2" ID threaded drain and a slightly shorter 1/2" BSP water connection. I will need to cut a pair of holes through the top of the kegerator to pass the drain and water connection.
The plan is to supply (reverse-osmosis) water to the rinser via a 1/4" O.D. supply line. This line would enter via one of the existing CO2 holes (along with several 8mm O.D. CO2 supply lines as you've done) on the back of the kegerator in the upper right or left corner. The drain line would exit via the other CO2 hole in the adjacent corner. I'm not sure what size drain line the existing CO2 hole will allow, but I shouldn't need much in the way of I.D. to pass the water from the rinser and what little beer may collect in the tray.
I'm thinking I can carefully cut the holes through the top of the kegerator using a small hole saw without a pilot bit. I assume the top is comprised of two sheets of plastic likely separated by some form of insulation. Once I get through the topmost sheet of plastic, I can confirm there aren't any coolant or electrical lines in the area. If there are, I assume I'll be able to move them out of the way before drilling through the bottom sheet of plastic.
Sound like a plan? Any suggestions?
Great video. Quite a few helpful hints i will keep in mind for my next kegerator. And puns!
This is the longest video I ever did which isn't a good thing on YT, but I felt it might help some people and needed to be done. I'm happy you enjoyed the puns/funnies as it was hard to say a lot of those things without snickering. Plus, I'm one of those people that loves to make others smile as you could probably tell from my T-Shirt.
Thanks for the video, with so many taps to choose from, what is the amount of time that a keg sit in the cooler.
Most people probably don't need more than 4 taps, as I feel an 8 tap is more for entertaining, which is what I'm planning to use it for. Sadly as this is new, I can't tell you at this point, but I can give you a timetable for my Keezer, which has 7 active taps. Keep in mind I give away the majority of my beer, but sometimes I either am not impressed, like it too much to share it out in any volume or just don't have the time or the bottles to share it out. I'd have to say most beers don't last more than 2 to 3 months at most, but sometimes I'll let a dark brew go an easy 4 to 6 months. Ultimately, I'm looking to have other things on tap beyond Beer and Ciders, like Kumbucha, Hop Water, and maybe a wine or hard tea.
I have a keg land 4 keg/tap kegerator. Pretty much identical to yours. Albeit half the size.
I ran my gas line inside and then split it. I do not have in-line regs.
You will find that a keg land carbonation fitting (same as on the all rounders) will screw directly on to the hole in the back of the kegerator.
The barb on the carb fitting that sticks inside is the right size for the Duo Tight fittings.
That way your gas line can be hooked to your kegerator with a ball lock fitting,
Makes it super simple to switch co2 tanks.
I full get what you are saying but swapping the CO2 tanks based on the way I have it is pretty easy. I did have a leak with this system and finally located it. The leak was the actual Duotight gas disconnect, which I had to use a pair of pliers to tighten to stop the leak. I just found it funny that I had about 65 points of failure (spots where I plugged in a duotight) and the actual duotight was the problem.
What putty did you use on the back inlets?
It is called Sealing Clay - amzn.to/3OezCRA I only used part of one packet. If you are in Jacksonville, FL, I'd give you a packet for free as this stuff is crazy cheap. It does harden a little over time, but I have 6 more packets and the first one has been in there for about 1.5 years and still doing a great job.
Great work and great video! Thank you! What duotight connectors type did you use for taps?
Thank you. I know it was a long video, but if it helps anyone, it will be worth it. The Komos came with those which were 6.35 mm to 8 mm Duotight. (6.35 is for the nipple on the shank.)
@@BitterRealityBrewing Many thanks👍
awesome video. I bought a used kegland series 4 kegorator. Planned on ripping everything out so I can have new innards. Bought all of the stuff you are talking about except for the 15 psi pressure gauge. Guess what I just purchased? :)
Yeah, age isn't nice to your vision and those 60 psi gauges are a bit hard to read if you like to dial in your psi. I'm still testing for a few minor slow leaks but hope to have it solid after this weekend.
A lot of work, so you've convinced me to only ever get a 2 tap system
😂For personal a 2 to 3 tap system is perfect. I do a ton of brewing and share most of my beer, so having 8 taps is perfect. The Komos is really nice, but I did hate how the tower installation was designed as it was the most difficult part.
@@BitterRealityBrewing I finally pulled the trigger on the system, and went with 4 tap. I made sure to let MoreBeer know it was based on this video!!!!
This is an older (but excellent!) video and idk if you're still watching the comments, but if so: have you managed to get 8 cornys in your double-wide kegerator? Just set mine up (same model as yours) and can't for the life of me figure out how it is possible. Even the slimline torpedo kegs are more than 8 inches in diameter, and the interior is only 31" wide! The only configuration for 8 that makes sense is 4-wide and 2-deep, but 4 cornys wide is at LEAST 33" - probably closer to 34". What am I missing here?
I totally threw out my tower foam by mistake and ended up getting some insulation mat as a replacment so things stay cool.
When I was doing the video, I joked as I could easily see someone tossing that out as packing material without questioning it. And then weeks later, go to build the kegerator only to realize they threw it away. Sounds like I was right. So, far I am very impressed with the system.
I just use coloured electrical tape on the handles, with a whiteboard behind on the wall with corresponding colour patches and a dry wipe market
I was thinking about doing the exact same thing after watching my own video for like the 12 time. Great suggestion!
I have a duel Komos kegerator for 2months now. Do you have a problem with it being very noisy, my compressor turns on fine but after a minute of running it’s starts making a whirlwind sound that gets louder as it runs . I didn’t realize it was that noisy. Do you have any issues with this kind of noise?
Loved the video 🤓
I feel mine is pretty quiet. Is it the compressor or the fan? I ask because the fan on my glycol system gets noisy from time to time due to a very minor alignment issue on the fan. It is not something I'm too worried about, but it can be annoying. If it becomes a major concern or gets louder, reach out to Komos before the warranty expires. The compressor does worry me, as most people say you can just swap them out, but that seems to be common with all of them.
@@BitterRealityBrewing thank you for the quick reply. I have reached out to them and they did offer me a return if I would like.
If there was ever a drinking game episode, then this is it.
Keep in mind I also have a keezer to keep the drinking games going. 😂
I just built the 4 tap and that tower was a pain, and the instructions skipped the tower gasket. Its honestly a perfect example of minimum viable product. There was no care or dedication in its creation. It's fine,it could be great
Agree, as my instructions were old vs the actual system I got. After, I showed my wife the special screw driver and screw holder I bought just to put it together, she was like why do you have to buy special tools?. I was like, that is the only way I'm ever going to get this thing put together. She said, that sounds like either a bad design, or bad planning on the designers part, not to include the required tools to assemble something like that. I get it, that they wanted to hide the screws and make it a a lot cleaner of a build, but it was a small nightmare to get all those d@mn screws installed. I still like the Komos and new visitors to my brew space always seem to think it looks amazing, but it does use about 2.5 times the amount of electricity compared to my DIY keezer which supports 7 kegs.
LOL, why talking so much about magnetic screws.... there are tons of other ways to make a screw stick to a screwdriver,,,, :)
I'm just really used to them as they have made my life easier over the years. (I'm an IT guy, so lots of small screws in computer and server systems.)
Sure, no biggy :) I am a Toolmaker, assembled Injection-Molding-Tools since about 20 years. I know the problem. Thats why i had to come up with a lot of different ways to srew and unscrew in nearly impossible situations.. Superglue, oil, clay, stickytape, suliver... many "tools " for many different problems.. keeps the head/brain in action... :) .. btw. i like your channel and videos. Just a beginner right now ... starting because i love beer but dont trust the big companys anymore. If i make my own beer i know exactly what is in the beer. If you buy from the big companys you can be sure you are consuming harmful chemicals.... @@BitterRealityBrewing