You can tell by the amount of detail Mitch gives us that he really wants us to succeed. Thanks! PS. Tormek should sponsor you and the backyard looks great. Don
Wow great find for me. I only had seen a couple videos a few years ago when looking how to use the 45 after receiving it for christmas. It was my great grandfathers. I have the complete set and box. Now I can watch more of your videos and make something. Well done
I just bought one of these planes on ebay and this video is an invaluable aid to tuning up my cutters.thanks very much Mitch ,this is one of the only videos dealing with this particular plane.
When I first cleaned up my cutters I just went for cleaning and sharpening at he same time. This made them usable but poor results. I'll have to find one of those rounded stones soon. Thank you for video. Very nice to see someone doing it before doing it myself.
Ken Haygarth Cheers Ken. I ought to experiment with different bevel angles to discover what works best over a range of woods that I commonly use. Finding the time is another matter!
Nice job on the series about the 45 Mitch. I have a Record 405 as well as a Stanley 45. I dedicate my 45 to the hollow and round bases and the 405 to all other uses. One thing about sharpening... Both Stanley and Record recommend a 35 degree bevel angle for the 45/405 cutters. I tried a 30 degree angle, and without the added support that you would find in a conventional plane, the edge just doesn't stand up quite as well. I also use 35 degrees on my Record 050C (another great combination plane, and far better than the Stanley 50). Keep up the good work!
Cheers Bob. That's a good point about the bevel angle. I should go back and check the angle on mine - I used the plastic Tormek angle guide to measure them, having just replicated the angle that was there, and it's not so easy to be accurate with it. Thanks for watching.
I have the Jet version of the Tormek. I snagged a Tormek angle guage like yours to measure bevels. My biggest issue is the bevels in the real smaller beading cutters. The best I have been able to do with them is grind the overall bevel (the flats on the outside and between the hollows), make sure the backs are dead flat, and hone the curved bevels on a small dowel with is saturated with honing paste. It's a bit of a struggle, especially on the smallest cutters for the Record 050C.
Thank you. I too have an eBay find which fortunately came with most of the cutters. Looking at the variety of shapes is very intimidating to try to figure out how to sharpen them. Your video gives me a good place to start. I also have a Tormex but have grown frustrated with results and it just sits in a corner.
Cheers Jim. Yep, my Tormek is only used occasionally to save a little effort re-establishing a bevel, etc. I do think they can save time if they can left permanently set up ready go, and can give pretty good results for a beginner by using the jigs. Once you learn how to sharpen by hand though, the Tormek looses it's edge. For complicated grinding, like some turning gouges, I do still turn to the Tormek's special jigs. Perhaps if I did more turning, I'd learn to do those well by hand.
Thank you, I am happy to se your video because i was locking for informations about the sharpening of the blades of my new Record 050 plane. Very hard to find good explanation on youtube.
Great informative presentation there. You can certainly tune up those blades. You need to work on your tuning of that guitar at the start and end of your video though! Ha. Thanks for sharing!
Perfect timing as I have just acquired an old 45 (pre 1910 i think). What is the best way of sharpening the slitting cutter? (A video on using the slitting cutter would also be much appreciated.)
orzellezro Hi. Would you believe I have no slitting cutter with mine. I shall be making one, and demonstrating it in a future video, but I'm not sure when that will be yet. My understanding is that the cutter should have a flat back, pointed tip (about 90 degrees), and be beveled about 25 degrees on both edges of the tip. If you have one, try honing the bevels at their current angle, until they, and the tip, are razor sharp. Just touching the back to remove the wire edge. Let me know how it goes. Happy woodworking, Mitch
WOmadeOD - Made in Wood with Mitch Peacock Mine has a pointed tip and a bevel on each of the four faces (if that makes sense). Happy to send a picture if it helps.
WOmadeOD - Made in Wood with Mitch Peacock Thanks Mitch, I'll try that method although on mine the pointed tip is 63 degrees and there are two bevels on each side creating four faces leading down to the point.
orzellezro Sorry, of course about 60 degrees makes more sense!I've read that it came with four bevels, and thinking about it, it does make some sense. The purpose of the slitting cutter was to rip off mouldings made on the edge of a wider board, ready to add to a project. The best result would be produced with bevels facing away from the moulding, so that the ripped off piece would not have compressed fibres from the bevel. However, that configuration wouldn't work well with a fence riding against the moulded edge, as it would tend to push the fence away from the edge, ruining the straight cut. Unless the 'donor' board was of uniform width, you couldn't run the fence on the opposite edge, and even if it was you would have to reset the fence distance every time. Therefore, four bevels looks like a sensible compromise between speed and quality.Just in case you didn't know, the slitter is worked deeper and deeper, on alternate faces, until the cut is complete.
+Paul McManus I dread to think Paul! This set were pretty ropey when I got them. I seem to remember doing several at a time, then breaking for a few days. It does get rather boring. Ordinarily one would just sharpen during and after use - that way they are always ready, and you're never faced with a whole bunch to do.
Hi Mitch I am in the process of figuring out what irons I am willing to spare. As you probably know Stanely and Record iron are interchangeable. I need a 1/2" hallow iron (convex curve) to complete my hollow and round set (record). What I have and and would be interested in trading with you. I have a 3/16" Tongue, a stanely.) I could be a little out on the measurements. The rest are unused Record.
aphansler Hi, I don't have the hollows and rounds bases or irons. I can't recall all the cutters I have, or which are spares, and I'm currently laid up with a bad back, so not sure when I'll be able to get back in the workshop to check. I appreciate you contacting me, and perhaps when you have decided which you are happy to trade you could email me a list (mai@womadeod.co.uk). Cheers, Mitch
Hello and kind congratulations for this series of videos about combination plane. They were an unvaluable value. I have bought an number 45 it will arrive in a week. I have only a question, this special sharp stone that you uses for the bead cutters where I can buy? Or it is hand made, adapting it of another. Thanks for your time, your tips and your youtube channel. From Barcelona (Catalonia) Xavi Martinez
Hi, and thank you. The stone is an oil slip stone, made for small carving gouges mainly. Made by Henry Taylor Tools Limited, they can be purchased from www.axminster.co.uk/henry-taylor-slip-stone-set-910185
betzaleldaniel You don't need an accurate fit, as you can work the slip stone around the edge, or angle it to fit better. A diamond cone might work well, but I've not tried one.
I prefer oil, but if you've used water, you can dry them out and switch to oil or stick with water. It's not so easy to switch to water though, as you have to get the oil out which is difficult.
Vor dem Kauf von Stanley-Hobeln muß ich aus leidvoller Erfahrung warnen: die Beschädigung des Kunststoff-Handgriffes führte dazu, daß Stanley - die für sich mit einem "erstklassigen Service" werben - das gute Stück für irreparabel erklärt hat. Stanley liefert in keiner Weise Ersatzteile!! Wenn der Hobel, z.B. durch Sturz, beschädigt ist, muß er weggeschmissen werden. Für diesen Befund stellt Stanley (durch die GeSe-GmbH in Teuchern) auch noch eine saftige Rechnung. Ich vermute, daß Stanley unterdessen Konzerntochter einer "Heuschrecke" ist, die nur eines im Sinn hat: Verkaufen und Profit machen - nichts mehr.
Hecht103 I've not had cause to complain to Stanley, so I can't comment from experience. If your experience is a reflection of Stanley's current customer service, then that is a sad thing, given the history of the brand. Does anyone else have current experience, good or bad, of dealing with Stanley?
In Deutschland sind Stanley, Black & Decker, Dewalt, Elu, Mowmax und Berner zu einem Kundendienst und wohl auch zu einer Firma fusioniert - ich befürchte, daß von der früheren Tradition von Stanley nicht mehr viel übrig ist. Was ich dort erlebt habe ist abschreckend, obgleich ich vorher die Produkte sehr geschätzt habe.
You can tell by the amount of detail Mitch gives us that he really wants us to succeed. Thanks! PS. Tormek should sponsor you and the backyard looks great. Don
Cheers Don. I'm not sure Tormek would appreciate how little I use the machine overall, with so much resharpening done on bench stones.
Wow great find for me. I only had seen a couple videos a few years ago when looking how to use the 45 after receiving it for christmas. It was my great grandfathers. I have the complete set and box. Now I can watch more of your videos and make something. Well done
chickenguru4 Great to have you and your 45 on board. Happy woodworking, Mitch
I didn't know there was such a small beast as a 'slip stone'. I use just sand paper and dowel. Thanks again for your very helpful videos.
Cheers
I just bought one of these planes on ebay and this video is an invaluable aid to tuning up my cutters.thanks very much Mitch ,this is one of the only videos dealing with this particular plane.
When I first cleaned up my cutters I just went for cleaning and sharpening at he same time. This made them usable but poor results. I'll have to find one of those rounded stones soon. Thank you for video. Very nice to see someone doing it before doing it myself.
Many thanks!
Nice job Mitch, great video. I did mine recently, but I kept the original 35 degrees on the bevels. Thanks buddy
Ken Haygarth Cheers Ken. I ought to experiment with different bevel angles to discover what works best over a range of woods that I commonly use. Finding the time is another matter!
Nice job on the series about the 45 Mitch. I have a Record 405 as well as a Stanley 45. I dedicate my 45 to the hollow and round bases and the 405 to all other uses. One thing about sharpening... Both Stanley and Record recommend a 35 degree bevel angle for the 45/405 cutters. I tried a 30 degree angle, and without the added support that you would find in a conventional plane, the edge just doesn't stand up quite as well. I also use 35 degrees on my Record 050C (another great combination plane, and far better than the Stanley 50). Keep up the good work!
Cheers Bob. That's a good point about the bevel angle. I should go back and check the angle on mine - I used the plastic Tormek angle guide to measure them, having just replicated the angle that was there, and it's not so easy to be accurate with it. Thanks for watching.
I have the Jet version of the Tormek. I snagged a Tormek angle guage like yours to measure bevels. My biggest issue is the bevels in the real smaller beading cutters. The best I have been able to do with them is grind the overall bevel (the flats on the outside and between the hollows), make sure the backs are dead flat, and hone the curved bevels on a small dowel with is saturated with honing paste. It's a bit of a struggle, especially on the smallest cutters for the Record 050C.
I have a tiny slipstone (Henry Taylor I think) that copes with most of them. Following up with a profiled lath with honing paste.
Thank you. I too have an eBay find which fortunately came with most of the cutters. Looking at the variety of shapes is very intimidating to try to figure out how to sharpen them. Your video gives me a good place to start. I also have a Tormex but have grown frustrated with results and it just sits in a corner.
Cheers Jim. Yep, my Tormek is only used occasionally to save a little effort re-establishing a bevel, etc. I do think they can save time if they can left permanently set up ready go, and can give pretty good results for a beginner by using the jigs. Once you learn how to sharpen by hand though, the Tormek looses it's edge. For complicated grinding, like some turning gouges, I do still turn to the Tormek's special jigs. Perhaps if I did more turning, I'd learn to do those well by hand.
Excellent video and very valuable information. Many thanks!
Dan McDaniels Cheers Dan, appreciated. Happy woodworking, Mitch
Thank you, I am happy to se your video because i was locking for informations about the sharpening of the blades of my new Record 050 plane.
Very hard to find good explanation on youtube.
Thanks!
Very good Mitch! Thank you.
Great informative presentation there. You can certainly tune up those blades. You need to work on your tuning of that guitar at the start and end of your video though! Ha. Thanks for sharing!
Hadyn Buxton Cheers. Sadly I don't find the time for the guitar anymore - although I think it's to the relief of the family!
I want to get a set of hollows and rounds for my 45.
I'm still waiting to find a set myself. Cheers
Perfect timing as I have just acquired an old 45 (pre 1910 i think).
What is the best way of sharpening the slitting cutter?
(A video on using the slitting cutter would also be much appreciated.)
orzellezro Hi. Would you believe I have no slitting cutter with mine. I shall be making one, and demonstrating it in a future video, but I'm not sure when that will be yet. My understanding is that the cutter should have a flat back, pointed tip (about 90 degrees), and be beveled about 25 degrees on both edges of the tip. If you have one, try honing the bevels at their current angle, until they, and the tip, are razor sharp. Just touching the back to remove the wire edge. Let me know how it goes. Happy woodworking, Mitch
WOmadeOD - Made in Wood with Mitch Peacock Mine has a pointed tip and a bevel on each of the four faces (if that makes sense). Happy to send a picture if it helps.
WOmadeOD - Made in Wood with Mitch Peacock Thanks Mitch, I'll try that method although on mine the pointed tip is 63 degrees and there are two bevels on each side creating four faces leading down to the point.
orzellezro Sorry, of course about 60 degrees makes more sense!I've read that it came with four bevels, and thinking about it, it does make some sense. The purpose of the slitting cutter was to rip off mouldings made on the edge of a wider board, ready to add to a project. The best result would be produced with bevels facing away from the moulding, so that the ripped off piece would not have compressed fibres from the bevel. However, that configuration wouldn't work well with a fence riding against the moulded edge, as it would tend to push the fence away from the edge, ruining the straight cut. Unless the 'donor' board was of uniform width, you couldn't run the fence on the opposite edge, and even if it was you would have to reset the fence distance every time. Therefore, four bevels looks like a sensible compromise between speed and quality.Just in case you didn't know, the slitter is worked deeper and deeper, on alternate faces, until the cut is complete.
Out of interest, how thick is your slitting cutter?
I just made mine thin enough to install with the depth stop in the plane's cast channel.
It would be interesting to find out the actual Man Hours it took you to do these cutters.
+Paul McManus I dread to think Paul! This set were pretty ropey when I got them. I seem to remember doing several at a time, then breaking for a few days. It does get rather boring. Ordinarily one would just sharpen during and after use - that way they are always ready, and you're never faced with a whole bunch to do.
Hi Mitch
I am in the process of figuring out what irons I am willing to spare. As you probably know Stanely and Record iron are interchangeable. I need a 1/2" hallow iron (convex curve) to complete my hollow and round set (record). What I have and and would be interested in trading with you. I have a 3/16" Tongue, a stanely.) I could be a little out on the measurements. The rest are unused Record.
aphansler Hi, I don't have the hollows and rounds bases or irons. I can't recall all the cutters I have, or which are spares, and I'm currently laid up with a bad back, so not sure when I'll be able to get back in the workshop to check.
I appreciate you contacting me, and perhaps when you have decided which you are happy to trade you could email me a list (mai@womadeod.co.uk). Cheers, Mitch
Hello and kind congratulations for this series of videos about combination plane. They were an unvaluable value. I have bought an number 45 it will arrive in a week. I have only a question, this special sharp stone that you uses for the bead cutters where I can buy? Or it is hand made, adapting it of another.
Thanks for your time, your tips and your youtube channel.
From Barcelona (Catalonia)
Xavi Martinez
Hi, and thank you.
The stone is an oil slip stone, made for small carving gouges mainly. Made by Henry Taylor Tools Limited, they can be purchased from www.axminster.co.uk/henry-taylor-slip-stone-set-910185
@@mitchwoodwork Thanks so much Mitch. Kind regards
There are several sizes ogees cutters, I imagine I need several slip stone sizes!? would a cone diamond file be a good idea? tks
betzaleldaniel You don't need an accurate fit, as you can work the slip stone around the edge, or angle it to fit better. A diamond cone might work well, but I've not tried one.
Strange I thought that my slip stone used water ??
I prefer oil, but if you've used water, you can dry them out and switch to oil or stick with water. It's not so easy to switch to water though, as you have to get the oil out which is difficult.
@@mitchwoodwork good point !
I sharpen all
Of them by hand : not an easy task:(
Well done. Hopefully you get to use them for many more hours than it took to sharpen them
@@mitchwoodwork agree! Just don’t have the choice! Have no grinding setup…;(
That said, I always strop them before starting a day.
Good idea to always sharpen the whole bevel when stropping fails, to avoid the eventually big regrind by hand
Vor dem Kauf von Stanley-Hobeln muß ich aus leidvoller Erfahrung warnen: die Beschädigung des Kunststoff-Handgriffes führte dazu, daß Stanley - die für sich mit einem "erstklassigen Service" werben - das gute Stück für irreparabel erklärt hat.
Stanley liefert in keiner Weise Ersatzteile!! Wenn der Hobel, z.B. durch Sturz, beschädigt ist, muß er weggeschmissen werden. Für diesen Befund stellt Stanley (durch die GeSe-GmbH in Teuchern) auch noch eine saftige Rechnung.
Ich vermute, daß Stanley unterdessen Konzerntochter einer "Heuschrecke" ist, die nur eines im Sinn hat: Verkaufen und Profit machen - nichts mehr.
Hecht103 I've not had cause to complain to Stanley, so I can't comment from experience.
If your experience is a reflection of Stanley's current customer service, then that is a sad thing, given the history of the brand.
Does anyone else have current experience, good or bad, of dealing with Stanley?
In Deutschland sind Stanley, Black & Decker, Dewalt, Elu, Mowmax und Berner zu einem Kundendienst und wohl auch zu einer Firma fusioniert - ich befürchte, daß von der früheren Tradition von Stanley nicht mehr viel übrig ist.
Was ich dort erlebt habe ist abschreckend, obgleich ich vorher die Produkte sehr geschätzt habe.
Sorry Mitch but the powers that be are protecting ourselves from each other by not letting us truly comunicate.
Hi, sorry my typing! It's mail@womadeod.co.uk