Ah, the 1406, great 650 carb. Great break down of the 3 main factors to look into. Really well done video. Reference the spacers, yes, generally the wood-laminate spacer will help prevent direct heat transfer into the carb better than anything else. All in all this is one solid video and I'm glad you also included the adapters for the Chrysler setup of throttle linkage. Thanks for this one!
Hey man great video and Information Im new to this and Im no mechanic Ive only installed parts like starters alternators radiators breaks etc things like that I do have a guy who's one ASE certified recently I bought a 64 Impala 4 door hard top with a 327 v8 and 350 trans I believe seller told me now the car runs good just idles high has alot of miles 200 k or should I have engine and trans rebuilt also It has been sitting in my garage for 6 months have not ran it since march starter went out I think it has all stock parts oem carb Intake etc I want to upgrade them will this whole set up work with my car looking to go with the edelbrock parts along with a new Intake etc can you help me or do you have a list of these part #'s or what would you recommend I go with I would need to have my mechanic install these for my car Im now a subscriber of your channel enjoy your content thanks
Subscribed. Great video and explanation. I have a edlebrock carb I’m hooking up right now and the parts you’ve explained helped me. Now time to shop and decide what I need to buy for my fuel lines lol 😅(sbc edlebrock intake and carb stock 350) wish me luck
@@MuscleCarSolutions awesome man! Thanks for the fast reply! I’m just hooking up an old junk motor into my 1980 c10, got a bunch of old line and it just seems easier to order the new lines from the pump up to the carb rather than make old junk work so this video helped me lots, I’ll be watching the other videos to see how to run the vacuum lines and the choke wires, my connectors don’t seem to be the right ones, I’ll figure it out after my fuel lines get installed
Hey MCS, thanks for this. I'm installing an AVS2 (on my 350 small block) over a TORKER 2 manifold. I"m not sure what spacer to get, I currently have an old cheap spectre aluminum one, it had the plastic quadra insert etc...but I'm not sure if that's what I should be using. Suggestions? Thanks!
So...I bought a 2300 Holley 2 Barrel for a 65 Mustang (289) Carburetor didnt come with a simple inlet fitting to put a hose on to it ! 2 days trying to explain to parts guys how to attach a hose to carb. Why wouldn't Holley just provide a simple 3/8 or 5/16 double flared line to get You going ?
Cost savings. It’s only getting worse for Holley. They’ve cut a ton of staff in the last year and now getting aggressive cutting slow moving part numbers. Part of the problem being a publicly traded company. Their financials are an open book.
Hey, Im getting the Edelbrock AVS2 1906 (650CFM, NON EGR, Electric Choke) to replace my worn out Carter AFB on my 63 Corvette with a 327/4 Speed Manual. I know I need the edelbrock fuel line kit but Im a little confused on what I would need to get the throttle cable hooked up. I know I dont need to worry about a kick down plate but will my stock setup work or do I need to buy something else?
Hey, I have a 70 Nova with the i6 250 single barrel carb, it has a rod for the throttle linkage. I'll be swapping it with a 350 vortec with a 4 barrel elderbrock carburetor 1406 650cfm. Do you have an idea how to connect it to the factory gas pedal? Am I making this more complicated than it is? Thank you. Appreciate it
That would require seeing what the factory set up looks like. I’d find an X body group or website and I’m sure you’ll find someone with some hands on experience. I don’t think it’s going to be that difficult.
1982 Buick 307 V8.. I want a sleeper. But also a distance road cruiser as it was ment to be. Q-jet I don't trust. Supposedly as per the classic dealer I bought it from , 35k miles orginal.. 🤷🏻♂️...anyway if one were to upgrade intake and carb, along with air cleaner would that be a solution to the problem I want to solve?.. If I do upgrade for a bit more UMPH. will the rest of the vehicle be able to handle it? I.e. axels, steering, rear end... .. I'm trying to find that happy medium where I don't have to completely upgrade the entire vehicle for a few mphs and mpgs...also I want it to be quiet.. (like a cruiser).. ..any and all input is welcome.. thank ya kindly
Always a tough ask with the sub 4” bore engines. Extremely hard to make good power from them. Compression is also very low on that engine. A byproduct of the gas crunch era and tightening EPA fuel economy standards at the time. You can try and intake a carb swap, but also a cam as well. Something to enhance low end torque and see if you can get a little more from it. I wouldn’t worry too much about the rest of the drivetrain. You won’t be building a monster in front of it. The easiest thing is to swap in another small block and upgrade the transmission. Then you can have that cruiser with the extra fun power you’re looking for.
Yeah it’s the drastic reaction but if you want your goals met, it’ll be the easiest solution and one you can grow into. I know most folks get a little disappointed with the small bore engines. Just not a lot available for them. Best of luck with your project!
@@MuscleCarSolutionsthank you thats what i thought. just wanted to make sure. i'm in the process of building a mild 72 c10 something very dependable that i can drive any where i'm gathering parts and information your channel has been a great source of information. with everyone and his dog on the internet saying they know how to do something its good to come across someone that actually does. the last time i built a car from the ground up was in the late 70s so im a little out of touch thanks again.
Absolutely yes. 100% of the time. I’ve had mechanical pumps far exceed what they were rated for. Always run a regulator and give yourself one more adjustment point in a system that’s limited on the number available.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I knew you would ask that it's my 68 Camaro with a 396 and a turbo 350 used to be a 327 power glide that I've had for almost 30 years I've been able to make it last with using the right foot appropriately lol, but the kick down cable has never been hooked up is it really needed if you shift it manually most of the time,I appreciate how you always respond,if you're ever at the good guys car show in puallap wa I'll buy you a cold one in the beer garden
@@johnweaver8470 I worked that event in Puyallup for 7 years in a row. Used to live in Orting. ;) I wouldn’t mind getting back up there again one day. That’s one heck of a car community that’s in the PNW. For as short as your summers are, you all sure know how to have a good time when the weather is beautiful! Be proud of that event. It’s one of the best ones on the Good Guys schedule. Amazing venue, awesome cars and wonderful people. Edelbrock makes a stud that attaches to the throttle linkage that I’ve used on many small and big block cars and not had to make a cable change. Using the bracket that mounts the lock down cable to the intake manifold? Have it in the proper holes? Trying to think if I’ve run into that situation before but coming up blank. What year is the TH350? I think maybe the later ones had a shorter cable but don’t take my word for that. You might research that and see if you just need the earlier cable.
I have an Edelbrock 1406 paired to an RPM Air gap dual/divided plane, can I run an open spacer or does it need to match the intake manifold's dual plane (new to carbureted engines)
@@kaminari8481 the 1406 is calibrated as an economy carburetor. It doesn’t work well with the RPM intake. Best to run a 1405 or 1905 if that’s the size the engine needs. Use a four hole spacer.
I put that 1 inch wooden spacer on my carb to intake and the carb is acting differently since i put the spacer on. When i give ut some hard throttle i can see its shooting up into the air cleaner.....
I worded it wrong. I will try to better explain. I have a Carter 650 AFB. I the carb was working properly before i put the 1 inch wooden spacer to sepperate and insulate the carb from the heat like you suggested. Only now, when i give it hard or full throttle, either air or fuel or some kind of pressure is shooting up out the top of the carb...then the engine stalls. This only happens when i give it full throttle. It idles fine.. is there an adjustment that needs to be made after the 1 inch Spacer is applied?
The Fuel pressure is set at 5.5 psi. The intake is a Weiand Action Plus 8004 Its not throwing flames up threw the air horn. Its not poping up threw the air horn. Its making sucking noise, or a hissing noise when i give it hard throttle. Then it stalls.i am thinking about removing that 1 inch wooden spacer to see if it goes away.
@erik9685 yup. Sounds like you have a nice vacuum leak! It’s very common on those dual pattern, spread bore intakes. Edelbrock 2732 usually cures it and if you’re in the US, most of the chain stores carry them - O’Reilly, Auto Zone.
What would cause a holley fuel pressure regulator to not maintain pressure. I have the high psi spring in there(4.5-9psr rating) and it wont hold 6psi. Also, with the aeromotive gauge. Is it good practice to calibrate the pin before starting the car? I know they with fluctuate after heat gets to it in the bay, but before my first drive I "set/calibrate" the gauge to zero then send fuel thru the system(key on and ignition)
@@MuscleCarSolutions the pin the casing is their calibration tool/Innovation, pull it to set back to atmospheric pressure. In my experience on a few different liquid gauges fluctuate after the heat from the engine bay gets to it... I dunno. That's the same gauge I'm using now, it's a good gauge no doubt.
Hi I have a question. I have a holley street warrior carb 600 cfm the problem I see is my fuel pump has 3/8 out. And the inlet on the carb is 5/16 any ideas?
Question. I just put a avs2 on my stock 350sbc. The divorced choke rod i had on the old carb won't work and I can't find a clear solution other than making one from a clothes hanger. Any suggestions?
Great video! I’ve inherited my grandfathers 1972 C15 and your video has helped me prepare to replace the carb on it. Thank you!
Glad to hear that!
Ah, the 1406, great 650 carb. Great break down of the 3 main factors to look into. Really well done video. Reference the spacers, yes, generally the wood-laminate spacer will help prevent direct heat transfer into the carb better than anything else. All in all this is one solid video and I'm glad you also included the adapters for the Chrysler setup of throttle linkage. Thanks for this one!
Thank you sir! Very much appreciated. Eagerly looking forward to you staring up your content again. Happy holidays!
Another great video , keep them coming!!!!
Thank again Tool Junkie! Always appreciative you took the time to watch and comment!
Thank you so much
Love the videos, keep up the good work. Thanks for the advice.
Glad to help! Thank you and good luck. If you get stuck with anything don’t hesitate to ask.
Hey man great video and Information Im new to this and Im no mechanic Ive only installed parts like starters alternators radiators breaks etc things like that I do have a guy who's one ASE certified recently I bought a 64 Impala 4 door hard top with a 327 v8 and 350 trans I believe seller told me now the car runs good just idles high has alot of miles 200 k or should I have engine and trans rebuilt also It has been sitting in my garage for 6 months have not ran it since march starter went out I think it has all stock parts oem carb Intake etc I want to upgrade them will this whole set up work with my car looking to go with the edelbrock parts along with a new Intake etc can you help me or do you have a list of these part #'s or what would you recommend I go with I would need to have my mechanic install these for my car Im now a subscriber of your channel enjoy your content thanks
Thank you very helpful information
Subscribed. Great video and explanation. I have a edlebrock carb I’m hooking up right now and the parts you’ve explained helped me. Now time to shop and decide what I need to buy for my fuel lines lol 😅(sbc edlebrock intake and carb stock 350) wish me luck
No luck needed! You’ve got this! Just hollar if you run across any questions. Always happy to help if I can. Thanks for subscribing!
@@MuscleCarSolutions awesome man! Thanks for the fast reply! I’m just hooking up an old junk motor into my 1980 c10, got a bunch of old line and it just seems easier to order the new lines from the pump up to the carb rather than make old junk work so this video helped me lots, I’ll be watching the other videos to see how to run the vacuum lines and the choke wires, my connectors don’t seem to be the right ones, I’ll figure it out after my fuel lines get installed
Finding it to be a hot mess hooking up the linkage to a 351C with automatic transmission.
How to lay out components? Thanks for a helpful video.
Hey MCS, thanks for this. I'm installing an AVS2 (on my 350 small block) over a TORKER 2 manifold. I"m not sure what spacer to get, I currently have an old cheap spectre aluminum one, it had the plastic quadra insert etc...but I'm not sure if that's what I should be using. Suggestions? Thanks!
So...I bought a 2300 Holley 2 Barrel for a 65 Mustang (289) Carburetor didnt come with a simple inlet fitting to put a hose on to it !
2 days trying to explain to parts guys how to attach a hose to carb. Why wouldn't Holley just provide a simple 3/8 or 5/16 double flared line to get You going ?
Cost savings. It’s only getting worse for Holley. They’ve cut a ton of staff in the last year and now getting aggressive cutting slow moving part numbers. Part of the problem being a publicly traded company. Their financials are an open book.
Hey, Im getting the Edelbrock AVS2 1906 (650CFM, NON EGR, Electric Choke) to replace my worn out Carter AFB on my 63 Corvette with a 327/4 Speed Manual. I know I need the edelbrock fuel line kit but Im a little confused on what I would need to get the throttle cable hooked up. I know I dont need to worry about a kick down plate but will my stock setup work or do I need to buy something else?
Not sure how it is configured on that car or what the factory AFB looked like. Just something you’ll need to figure out once you get the new carb on.
Hey, I have a 70 Nova with the i6 250 single barrel carb, it has a rod for the throttle linkage. I'll be swapping it with a 350 vortec with a 4 barrel elderbrock carburetor 1406 650cfm. Do you have an idea how to connect it to the factory gas pedal? Am I making this more complicated than it is? Thank you. Appreciate it
That would require seeing what the factory set up looks like. I’d find an X body group or website and I’m sure you’ll find someone with some hands on experience. I don’t think it’s going to be that difficult.
1982 Buick 307 V8..
I want a sleeper. But also a distance road cruiser as it was ment to be.
Q-jet I don't trust. Supposedly as per the classic dealer I bought it from , 35k miles orginal.. 🤷🏻♂️...anyway if one were to upgrade intake and carb, along with air cleaner would that be a solution to the problem I want to solve?..
If I do upgrade for a bit more UMPH. will the rest of the vehicle be able to handle it? I.e. axels, steering, rear end... ..
I'm trying to find that happy medium where I don't have to completely upgrade the entire vehicle for a few mphs and mpgs...also I want it to be quiet.. (like a cruiser).. ..any and all input is welcome.. thank ya kindly
Always a tough ask with the sub 4” bore engines. Extremely hard to make good power from them. Compression is also very low on that engine. A byproduct of the gas crunch era and tightening EPA fuel economy standards at the time. You can try and intake a carb swap, but also a cam as well. Something to enhance low end torque and see if you can get a little more from it. I wouldn’t worry too much about the rest of the drivetrain. You won’t be building a monster in front of it. The easiest thing is to swap in another small block and upgrade the transmission. Then you can have that cruiser with the extra fun power you’re looking for.
@@MuscleCarSolutions ohhh.. an engine swap. I didn't think of that. Well hecks that means a can really get funky. Dude!!! Thank you!
Yeah it’s the drastic reaction but if you want your goals met, it’ll be the easiest solution and one you can grow into. I know most folks get a little disappointed with the small bore engines. Just not a lot available for them. Best of luck with your project!
do you use a gasket on the top and bottom of your spacer
It has to seal on both sides. Yes you use gaskets.
@@MuscleCarSolutionsthank you thats what i thought. just wanted to make sure. i'm in the process of building a mild 72 c10 something very dependable that i can drive any where i'm gathering parts and information your channel has been a great source of information. with everyone and his dog on the internet saying they know how to do something its good to come across someone that actually does. the last time i built a car from the ground up was in the late 70s so im a little out of touch thanks again.
@@doug595959 nice! I have a mild 71 GMC. About to start releasing more tuning videos on that truck very soon. Glad you’ve found the videos helpful.
In your opinion, is a pressure regulator needed when running a mechanical fuel pump?
Absolutely yes. 100% of the time. I’ve had mechanical pumps far exceed what they were rated for. Always run a regulator and give yourself one more adjustment point in a system that’s limited on the number available.
Do you know if they make a longer kick down cable for a turbo 350 behind a big block thanks for another great video
I’m sure there is a solution to what you’re asking but the question should be, why are you putting a th350 behind a big block?
@@MuscleCarSolutions I knew you would ask that it's my 68 Camaro with a 396 and a turbo 350 used to be a 327 power glide that I've had for almost 30 years I've been able to make it last with using the right foot appropriately lol, but the kick down cable has never been hooked up is it really needed if you shift it manually most of the time,I appreciate how you always respond,if you're ever at the good guys car show in puallap wa I'll buy you a cold one in the beer garden
@@johnweaver8470 I worked that event in Puyallup for 7 years in a row. Used to live in Orting. ;) I wouldn’t mind getting back up there again one day. That’s one heck of a car community that’s in the PNW. For as short as your summers are, you all sure know how to have a good time when the weather is beautiful! Be proud of that event. It’s one of the best ones on the Good Guys schedule. Amazing venue, awesome cars and wonderful people.
Edelbrock makes a stud that attaches to the throttle linkage that I’ve used on many small and big block cars and not had to make a cable change. Using the bracket that mounts the lock down cable to the intake manifold? Have it in the proper holes? Trying to think if I’ve run into that situation before but coming up blank. What year is the TH350? I think maybe the later ones had a shorter cable but don’t take my word for that. You might research that and see if you just need the earlier cable.
Maybe the Lokar TV cable system can help.
I have an Edelbrock 1406 paired to an RPM Air gap dual/divided plane, can I run an open spacer or does it need to match the intake manifold's dual plane (new to carbureted engines)
@@kaminari8481 the 1406 is calibrated as an economy carburetor. It doesn’t work well with the RPM intake. Best to run a 1405 or 1905 if that’s the size the engine needs. Use a four hole spacer.
@@MuscleCarSolutions yea its a 79' C10 with a 454, RPM heads, RPM air gap intake, 1406 carb... So I'll look for another carb thank you!
@@kaminari8481 what’s the cam profile?
@@MuscleCarSolutions its a Comp Cams Big Mutha Thumpr for the Big block 454 .522/.507 lift 295/312 duration 107 lobe sep.
I put that 1 inch wooden spacer on my carb to intake and the carb is acting differently since i put the spacer on. When i give ut some hard throttle i can see its shooting up into the air cleaner.....
The spacer is shooting up through the air cleaner?! Dang! What happened???
I worded it wrong. I will try to better explain. I have a Carter 650 AFB. I the carb was working properly before i put the 1 inch wooden spacer to sepperate and insulate the carb from the heat like you suggested. Only now, when i give it hard or full throttle, either air or fuel or some kind of pressure is shooting up out the top of the carb...then the engine stalls. This only happens when i give it full throttle. It idles fine..
is there an adjustment that needs to be made after the 1 inch
Spacer is applied?
@@erik9685 I have questions! What’s your fuel pressure set to at the carburetor? What intake is this on? Is it a backfire?
The Fuel pressure is set at 5.5 psi. The intake is a Weiand Action Plus 8004
Its not throwing flames up threw the air horn. Its not poping up threw the air horn. Its making sucking noise, or a hissing noise when i give it hard throttle. Then it stalls.i am thinking about removing that 1 inch wooden spacer to see if it goes away.
@erik9685 yup. Sounds like you have a nice vacuum leak! It’s very common on those dual pattern, spread bore intakes. Edelbrock 2732 usually cures it and if you’re in the US, most of the chain stores carry them - O’Reilly, Auto Zone.
I have a edelbrock 1407 carb 750 i don’t have enough room for a phonelic spacer what else can I do for a spacer for heat soak
This is the smallest height they make. amzn.to/3mj3P3F
What would cause a holley fuel pressure regulator to not maintain pressure. I have the high psi spring in there(4.5-9psr rating) and it wont hold 6psi.
Also, with the aeromotive gauge. Is it good practice to calibrate the pin before starting the car? I know they with fluctuate after heat gets to it in the bay, but before my first drive I "set/calibrate" the gauge to zero then send fuel thru the system(key on and ignition)
Could be a number of things. This is the pressure gauge. amzn.to/3lEEd0X
There is no calibration. It’s a good gauge and isn’t effected by the under hood heat.
@@MuscleCarSolutions the pin the casing is their calibration tool/Innovation, pull it to set back to atmospheric pressure. In my experience on a few different liquid gauges fluctuate after the heat from the engine bay gets to it... I dunno.
That's the same gauge I'm using now, it's a good gauge no doubt.
Hi I have a question. I have a holley street warrior carb 600 cfm the problem I see is my fuel pump has 3/8 out. And the inlet on the carb is 5/16 any ideas?
The carburetor has a removable inlet. You can change that or change the fuel pump outlet if that’s an option.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks sir
@@lordsauto you’re very welcome!
Question. I just put a avs2 on my stock 350sbc. The divorced choke rod i had on the old carb won't work and I can't find a clear solution other than making one from a clothes hanger. Any suggestions?
Get rid of it. Worked well on the factory carb I’m sure, but not so much on aftermarket carbs. Get the electric choke kit. Much better.
Does a edelbrock 1406 have the same bolt pattern as a holley
It’s a 4150 pattern.
I am putting a 1405 elderbrock carb on chrysler 318 thermoquad intake what adapter do u recommend.
Edelbrock 2691.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks love your videos
@@scottcatron3924 thank you!
What about rubber gasket
I don’t understand what you question is.
After you edit with a voice over you should watch your video it's really hard to follow along...