really great how to do it video. the point of putting the VFO regulator dropping resistor under the chassis is not that the new resistor will fail. Its to reduce drift.
Great Job Terry! That hole in the chassis at 15:23 (just below your finger) is there so you can slip a screw driver through the bottom and loosen the screws on the flex joint, this way you don't have to take the whole reduction assembly off the face, it will come out as a complete unit.
I had heard there was access for the setscrew, just never took the time to look. This Ranger will be a great unit when complete. Except for the chard VFO platform, it is in super condition. Hopefully have it complete soon and get on 10 meters AM! The band has been open lately. Hopefully see you on 29 MHZ. TD
Wow that was quite fun to watch Terry. Almost like being right there with you. I am still looking one of these old radios to add to my collection. Thanks for sharing.
Hello, Appreciate it man, Yes it is a challenge to work on these. This one is well worth it. Nice that it is a factory unit. I am shooting cap replacement right now, so part 2 will be on soon. This Ranger will be up for grabs when all is complete. TD
I was really impressed with this repair Terry... What an undertaking to replace one resistor! It's like the engineer's started designing that Ranger with THAT resistor and built the transmitter around it! Well done Sir..
That's a great old Transmitter. That was a great step by step on getting that vernier drive cleaned up better than new. Great video Terry thanks for sharing.
Nice work! Yeah, I’ve never been very enthused about the enclosed vfo situation with Johnson Rangers, Valiants etc. it’s a hassle to access for service -quite cramped. The Rangers have arguably the very best stock audio quality of any of the Johnson AM transmitters, and they are nicely compact, but…. I do much prefer the ease of maintenance and greater solidness of design of the Viking I and Viking II transmitters. The Viking I and II transmitters are more “old school “ in design (think WWII military design approach) and there is much easier access to the various internal components etc. I also prefer the rugged and easy-to-service Johnson VF-122 external VFO units which are utilized with the Viking I and Ii transmitters. Also, with some straightforward audio chain modifications, the audio quality of the Viking I and II transmitters can be made to sound very good. Having said Thea above, the Rangers are indeed overall quite reliable and quality small AM/CW transmitters, and very much worth the effort to restore, maintain and operate. Thanks D-Lab, for your thorough, thoughtful and well-produced repair videos. Kudos!
Great work Terry. We have bugger all ham radio etc in Australia anymore! No vintage tube gear either. What a shame! At least I can watch your vids! Andrew fron down under!
I operate hybred & all tube sets mainly on 40mtrs!, but vast majority of "so called hams" would NOT know how to use a tube rig & have no hope of proper repairs.
...there are a LOT of things that Americans have that you Aussies don't don't have- but you can run your country any dam way that you want- and we'll do the same!!!
Terry or anyone else, how do you clean the ceramic wafer switch inside the VFO that's mounted to the chassi?. I refurbished my Ranger I & II but could not figure other that a couple shots of de Ox.
Hi Terry. I just obtained a Ranger II that needs work. A preliminary inspection reveals that it needs a full complement of tubes since they are missing as well as the replacement off L6A (LF buffer coil ) which has been physically broken away. Other that that the interior underside of the chassis is quite clean. Also recapping is probably in order to at least some extent. I am not a ham radio person but the prospect of restoring this seems doable if not too expensive. Due to my lack of ham radio knowledge I don’t think I would be able to do whatever tuning might be required. Is this a project that would be above my level of knowledge and expertise? Thanks for your time and I love your videos.
really great how to do it video. the point of putting the VFO regulator dropping resistor under the chassis is not that the new resistor will fail. Its to reduce drift.
D lab Electronics your utube videos are awesome
Terry you are an awesome Tech. You are a tremendous asset to the Amateur Ham community. 73 Brother
Great work Terry! This is good information for me as I have a Johnson Viking Ranger to service soon. Thank you.
Great video, sir. Thanks!
Great Job Terry! That hole in the chassis at 15:23 (just below your finger) is there so you can slip a screw driver through the bottom and loosen the screws on the flex joint, this way you don't have to take the whole reduction assembly off the face, it will come out as a complete unit.
I had heard there was access for the setscrew, just never took the time to look. This Ranger will be a great unit when complete. Except for the chard VFO platform, it is in super condition. Hopefully have it complete soon and get on 10 meters AM! The band has been open lately. Hopefully see you on 29 MHZ. TD
I'd rather watch this that TV shows anyday
Wow that was quite fun to watch Terry. Almost like being right there with you. I am still looking one of these old radios to add to my collection. Thanks for sharing.
Hello, Appreciate it man, Yes it is a challenge to work on these. This one is well worth it. Nice that it is a factory unit. I am shooting cap replacement right now, so part 2 will be on soon. This Ranger will be up for grabs when all is complete. TD
The challenge is why I like working on them so much. Will be waiting on part 2. Thanks Terry.
I was really impressed with this repair Terry... What an undertaking to replace one resistor! It's like the engineer's started designing that Ranger with THAT resistor and built the transmitter around it! Well done Sir..
That's a great old Transmitter. That was a great step by step on getting that vernier drive cleaned up better than new. Great video Terry thanks for sharing.
Hey Terry, if possible can you show typical repairs and diagnosis of a Heathkit HW-101 or similar radio? Thanks in advance.
Nice work! Yeah, I’ve never been very enthused about the enclosed vfo situation with Johnson Rangers, Valiants etc. it’s a hassle to access for service -quite cramped.
The Rangers have arguably the very best stock audio quality of any of the Johnson AM transmitters, and they are nicely compact, but….
I do much prefer the ease of maintenance and greater solidness of design of the Viking I and Viking II transmitters. The Viking I and II transmitters are more “old school “ in design (think WWII military design approach) and there is much easier access to the various internal components etc. I also prefer the rugged and easy-to-service Johnson VF-122 external VFO units which are utilized with the Viking I and Ii transmitters.
Also, with some straightforward audio chain modifications, the audio quality of the Viking I and II transmitters can be made to sound very good.
Having said Thea above, the Rangers are indeed overall quite reliable and quality small AM/CW transmitters, and very much worth the effort to restore, maintain and operate.
Thanks D-Lab, for your thorough, thoughtful and well-produced repair videos. Kudos!
Great work Terry. We have bugger all ham radio etc in Australia anymore! No vintage tube gear either. What a shame! At least I can watch your vids! Andrew fron down under!
I operate hybred & all tube sets mainly on 40mtrs!, but vast majority of "so called hams" would NOT know how to use a tube rig & have no hope of proper repairs.
...there are a LOT of things that Americans have that you Aussies don't don't have- but you can run your country any dam way that you want- and we'll do the same!!!
Very nice job Terry..... excellent step by step.... Thank you
Terry or anyone else, how do you clean the ceramic wafer switch inside the VFO that's mounted to the chassi?. I refurbished my Ranger I & II but could not figure other that a couple shots of de Ox.
Great video and pointers to repairing these wonderful old transmitters.
Great video Terry I never realized how much work one of those old boat anchors could be.
Very interesting. Thank you Terry
Great Video Terry. Looking forward to part 2.
awesome video I'm picking one up next week that's in great shape. Going to have to do that resistor for sure.
Hi Terry. I just obtained a Ranger II that needs work. A preliminary inspection reveals that it needs a full complement of tubes since they are missing as well as the replacement off L6A (LF buffer coil ) which has been physically broken away. Other that that the interior underside of the chassis is quite clean. Also recapping is probably in order to at least some extent. I am not a ham radio person but the prospect of restoring this seems doable if not too expensive. Due to my lack of ham radio knowledge I don’t think I would be able to do whatever tuning might be required. Is this a project that would be above my level of knowledge and expertise? Thanks for your time and I love your videos.
I see you hade to change only the resistor I had a bad socket nice fix
17:16..."glyptal"(?)
D lab Electronics the owners vintage Johnson Ranger 2 ham AM Cw tube transmitter is cool
Great video as usual Terry...Hope you had a fantastic Father's Day!
Frank,
KF6HF
Mr. Carlson has a desoldering tool.
Hi Terry, how is the new job going ?
Thanks for your fine video's.
Regards Carl ,G0lka.
Surprised you didn't use a penetrating oil instead of WD-40.
Hey Terry, have you ever tried Kroil to "talk" screws into coming loose. It's good stuff. 73 NE5U Mike
Really neat stuff. Thanks for the videos. On the Ranger 2 video did you notice your title is D-ALB rather than D-Lab?? I'm just sayin' -- Dennis K6KRV
Was the Chernobyl resistor a bumble bee?
bumble bee's are old cap's
Just a bit too quick on the title there, "D-alb". ;)