Putting the old truck back together, getting ready to install all the interior door parts, wish I could play it in reverse, wrote down all the steps, will be going backwards from here. I have not done one of these since the last time on this truck about 20 years ago. Have a great day, thanks for the video
Great vid once again! Has been a year since I took this all apart, was great to see it again! Makes puzzle much quicker and easier!!! Thanks again for your time and effort. Keep them coming!!
Very entertaining. You kept it short, to the point. Too bad that truck was not taken care of. I have a 1994 pickup, only owner, blue interior. Looks almost new. I messed up the right door actuator and can't find a video on removal and replaced; so now the door is tied with a rope on the outside. Not an easy to find part. Keep up the good videos and thanks for sharing.
Thanks for this. It's been a long time since I dissasembled my doors and I'm trying to get the glass back in though already had the 1/4 vent installed, now I know why it won't go in!
@@6thGearGarage do you think the door runs of the 4th gen would fit the 3rd? Thanks for this video by the way, gave me the confidence to get stuck into mine.
@@lukeserio95 Ive never had a 4th gen to compare, but I'd bet they're slightly different. Toyota has changed them slightly on all the previous generations.
great video! had to muddle through this by myself a while back. this would have been super helpful. would love to see the restore vid! still deciding how im going to do mine
Haven't been able to roll my driver side window down in a year. Been to lazy to take the door apart. Thanks for posting this, will give me that push i need to do it! ha
@@benfarmer1590 I did, it was simple fix. The hardest part was getting clips off door. Mine window crank was a little rusty, it caused it to bend in a bit with use. I bought a new window regulator, they are fairly cheep. I could have re straightened/ fixed my old one. But i have a rule to buy when i can as she's older than me. There is seal pond behind the panel. Its like a plastic bag cut to the door size with a glue holding as a water barrier. I also cut out new plastic I had laying around and resealed it better. I lost a window crank clip. Id recommend the towel/rag method. but do it in your truck with doors closed. mine flew off and I spent a hour looking for it in the grass before I gave up. Only other thing is make sure you buy either wing window of full window regulator. Mine was vent window style. Its just slightly different. www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/lighting---electrical/motors---actuators/window-regulator/95cfe4f8cc76/v/a/8115/automotive-truck-1984-toyota-pickup
Does the dealership still sell them? If not, I have a box of door locks I can list in my store, but you'll need to get them repinned to match your key.
Thanks for this video. My 88 runner thanks you too. I've been unable to open the driver's door from within for about a year now......it slowly creeped up on me, you know how that goes. Just tore the panel off. People are always talking about a broken plastic clip on the horizontal pull rod between the latch and the inside handle - but I'm telling you....if one existed on this rig......I cannot see where on earth it would have attached. There are no holes in the door structure along that entire route. The idea would be that a broken clip allows for slack in the pull rod. So I'm thinking that this is simply a bad design for the beginning. There are 3 OG bends in the pull rod and the rod diameter is less than what I would have spec'd if BENDING were a concern - which it very much is in this case. So I've corrected the geometry of the pull rod to provide for proper door opening - but I expect this problem to reoccur.
@@6thGearGarage Thank you for taking time to reply. I've given this "stretched pull rod" some thought since I wrote to you yesterday. My 88 rig came off a ranch near San Antonio with 140k OG miles on it. Filthy filthy filthy. So much dirt caked everywhere - I have STILL not gotten it all off. All of the rear interior panels continue to be missing. What remains of the interior needs to be fully replaced. Side note: Would love to redesign and custom fabricate interiors of vehicles like these. This 88 runner saw a hard life for its first 140k. The brake system looked as though it had never been bled, cleaned or replaced in any way. My first brake bleed (immediately when I got it home) was an all day affair. I ran several quarts of new fluid through before it came close to clean. Think "dog vomit" and you'll get a visual of what the OG brake fluid was like. Should have had it towed instead of driving it home because stopping was very scary indeed. Still to this day I have not gotten rid of the soft brake pedal issue. So the truck was not cared for at all and it was on a ranch which likely had a compromising terrain with lots of dirt and mud. This was a ranch work truck that probably stayed on the farm and never saw any kind of legit pavement until 2015. This means lots of vibration while driving which compromised many things including and especially................drum roll please.................the door hinges. All four door hinges were toast when I got the truck in early 2016. Until recently I have had to lift the doors up slightly to get them to latch when closing - that's how much door sag. The door checks are gone gone gone. [Remember to not park next to anyone in a parking lot during a stiff breeze.] So when these door latches are not perfectly aligned, the latch resistance ultimately asks too much from the inside door pull rod given its diameter and geometry. Probably true for most vehicles. Anyway.....when opening from the outside you are lifting up on the door also - so it makes sense. The outside handle pull rod is short, vertical, and fairly straight. This is why from the outside I could always open the doors easily. The latch end of the inside handle pull rod was being held in place by the "pinched" latch assembly when the door was closed. You try opening the door from within and you are stretching a much longer and more awkward metal pull rod, that is all. Over time, this metal rod becomes elongated and, with the extra travel length this provides, you are not unlatching any door at all. My rig was not driven between May of 2016 and Dec 2020. Five months after buying it, I let it sit for 4.5 years to give it some alone time to think about the all kinds of wrong it had experienced before I came along and saved it. I therefore didn't get to examining the door hinges until we evacuated communist New Mexico last year and moved back to Texas where I found an ancient and magical custom machine shop where (if you're awesome) you get to work with the owner on your project. Using some of the OG hinge parts, this old-school pro machinist and I worked together seamlessly for about 4 hours straight to custom fabricate new removable hinges that are much stronger than the OG. He loved working with me (naturally) and only charged me $40. Should have been a couple hundred at least. So that's what I think happened and why it's likely very few first gen rig owners have had this kind of trouble with their doors in general. If your rig has been "pampered" and has never seen a dirt road continuously for 140K miles straight, then chances are your doors (and all else) are and will continue to be fine and dandy. Try restoring totally abused vehicles and you, too, shall see what I see! (no assumption made) There are plenty of unmotivated, lazy human beings in this world who shy away from controversy, from learning anything about the SYSTEMS they rely upon for survival, from learning about anything that questions their worldview, or from what should be a naturally occurring responsibility for SELF.............like mosquitoes fly fast and away from direct broad daylight. Count me as one who adds not to that sad list. (I could barely change the oil in my lawnmower in 2014 and now I do everything except for total engine and transmission overhauls - I went from some negative number to 88 mph quickly - If I had a legit shop then I'd stop at nothing to doing all the work myself) I have learned a great deal from the comment sections of videos posted online - sometimes more than I learned from the videos themselves. This is why I take time to write, so that others (like me) may become better equipped to help themselves - to rely LESS ON OTHERS FOR EVERYTHING. Next we shall tackle farming skills, hunting skills, and the best methods of removing our families from a society so thoroughly sick in the head with, among many other things, mass psychosis that it cannot logically differentiate between the Truth and the lies being passed off as truth. The "Germ Theory" is called a theory because it is...........wait for it.........a theory. I'll just leave that right there. And the average American IQ level is like 90-something. What was it Hitler or one of his men said?......something about.........repeat a lie enough times and it becomes truth? Where are those weapons of mass destruction again? John Taylor Gatto - Weapons of Mass Instruction.....and.....The Underground History of American Education. New York's #1 educator tears the system a new one. Oops! Guess he's no longer considered by the system to be New York's finest! (sarcasm admitted) Thanks again for this video and for responding.
Of the eight 84-88 trucks I’ve owned, only one had power doors and I don’t think they were original because the harness was full of butt connectors and scotch lock connectors. I’ve never tried to convert one to power, I actually like less electronics on these old trucks. Less things to go bad.
@@buildadventure404 so true. I get so tired of explaining to a passenger “you have to lift up the handle when you shut the door for it to stay locked”. It’s just easier to lean over and lock it myself after they shut the door 😂
I've never done it, but I think the hardest part would be the wiring. Aside from that you will need the power regulator and switches. My red 87 4wd had power doors added by the previous owner and the wiring was a mess... a bunch of scotchlok connectors and butt connectors. I was surprised everything worked.
Does anyone know if the vent window seal from the toyota trucks will fit a first gen 4runner? They look similar enough but the part numbers are slightly different
Holly crap man everytime i go to do something you have a video for it lol right on. Hey if possible ide love to buy them handle plugs off yu if u have all four? I also just finished revamping my plastic shifter surround havent wrapped it yet but there so brital and typically have hair line cracks i also fixed the clips that retain the boot all with jb marine weld and some cut up credit card and a bitta filler puddy its solid now man a bitta sanding then wrap sheel be better than new, thats my tip for the day.
I know what you mean, all of my shifter surrounds have had the hairline cracks as well. I'm going to hang on to the plugs because they go with the arm rests.
Putting the old truck back together, getting ready to install all the interior door parts, wish I could play it in reverse, wrote down all the steps, will be going backwards from here. I have not done one of these since the last time on this truck about 20 years ago. Have a great day, thanks for the video
We have had this truck new since 1985 when my dad bought it.
Great vid once again! Has been a year since I took this all apart, was great to see it again! Makes puzzle much quicker and easier!!! Thanks again for your time and effort. Keep them coming!!
Very entertaining. You kept it short, to the point.
Too bad that truck was not taken care of.
I have a 1994 pickup, only owner, blue interior. Looks almost new.
I messed up the right door actuator and can't find a video on removal and replaced; so now the door is tied with a rope on the outside. Not an easy to find part.
Keep up the good videos and thanks for sharing.
Thanks! I've found the 84-88 door actuators on ebay before. You might check there for the 89-95 actuator. I don't have any 89-95 in stock right now.
Thanks for this. It's been a long time since I dissasembled my doors and I'm trying to get the glass back in though already had the 1/4 vent installed, now I know why it won't go in!
Also, at 7:53 there should be 3 philips head screws under the door seal that hold the vent window in place.
Yeah, Toyota didn't make it simple!
Yes, I took them out a little earlier in the video. (If it's a 79-83, there will only be 2 screws.)
@@6thGearGarage Ah, I skipped past that. All good!
Please make a video on the red doors with electric controls!
Will do!
Outstanding video and presentation
Thank you very much!
Would love to see a video of a reassembly process of this. For a 1983 2x4 single cab. Seems like this is a very similar process
You're right, the earlier doors are very similar to this process.
@@6thGearGarage do you think the door runs of the 4th gen would fit the 3rd? Thanks for this video by the way, gave me the confidence to get stuck into mine.
@@lukeserio95 Ive never had a 4th gen to compare, but I'd bet they're slightly different. Toyota has changed them slightly on all the previous generations.
great video! had to muddle through this by myself a while back. this would have been super helpful. would love to see the restore vid! still deciding how im going to do mine
Thanks man, I was wondering where the head light relay was lol
The headlight relay is in the L shaped fusebox under the hood.
Done that a few times and will be again. Great video.
Perfect timing!
Haven't been able to roll my driver side window down in a year. Been to lazy to take the door apart. Thanks for posting this, will give me that push i need to do it! ha
I have the same problem, did u ever find a way to fix it?
@@benfarmer1590 I did, it was simple fix. The hardest part was getting clips off door. Mine window crank was a little rusty, it caused it to bend in a bit with use. I bought a new window regulator, they are fairly cheep. I could have re straightened/ fixed my old one. But i have a rule to buy when i can as she's older than me. There is seal pond behind the panel. Its like a plastic bag cut to the door size with a glue holding as a water barrier. I also cut out new plastic I had laying around and resealed it better. I lost a window crank clip. Id recommend the towel/rag method. but do it in your truck with doors closed. mine flew off and I spent a hour looking for it in the grass before I gave up. Only other thing is make sure you buy either wing window of full window regulator. Mine was vent window style. Its just slightly different.
www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/lighting---electrical/motors---actuators/window-regulator/95cfe4f8cc76/v/a/8115/automotive-truck-1984-toyota-pickup
great vid. lots of excellent details as always. 😊
Super helpful!!!
What is a good source for new door locks? Thank you.
Does the dealership still sell them? If not, I have a box of door locks I can list in my store, but you'll need to get them repinned to match your key.
Thanks for this video. My 88 runner thanks you too. I've been unable to open the driver's door from within for about a year now......it slowly creeped up on me, you know how that goes. Just tore the panel off. People are always talking about a broken plastic clip on the horizontal pull rod between the latch and the inside handle - but I'm telling you....if one existed on this rig......I cannot see where on earth it would have attached. There are no holes in the door structure along that entire route. The idea would be that a broken clip allows for slack in the pull rod. So I'm thinking that this is simply a bad design for the beginning. There are 3 OG bends in the pull rod and the rod diameter is less than what I would have spec'd if BENDING were a concern - which it very much is in this case. So I've corrected the geometry of the pull rod to provide for proper door opening - but I expect this problem to reoccur.
Amazingly, I haven't encountered that problem yet on any of my Toyotas
@@6thGearGarage Thank you for taking time to reply.
I've given this "stretched pull rod" some thought since I wrote to you yesterday. My 88 rig came off a ranch near San Antonio with 140k OG miles on it. Filthy filthy filthy. So much dirt caked everywhere - I have STILL not gotten it all off. All of the rear interior panels continue to be missing. What remains of the interior needs to be fully replaced. Side note: Would love to redesign and custom fabricate interiors of vehicles like these. This 88 runner saw a hard life for its first 140k.
The brake system looked as though it had never been bled, cleaned or replaced in any way. My first brake bleed (immediately when I got it home) was an all day affair. I ran several quarts of new fluid through before it came close to clean. Think "dog vomit" and you'll get a visual of what the OG brake fluid was like. Should have had it towed instead of driving it home because stopping was very scary indeed. Still to this day I have not gotten rid of the soft brake pedal issue. So the truck was not cared for at all and it was on a ranch which likely had a compromising terrain with lots of dirt and mud. This was a ranch work truck that probably stayed on the farm and never saw any kind of legit pavement until 2015. This means lots of vibration while driving which compromised many things including and especially................drum roll please.................the door hinges.
All four door hinges were toast when I got the truck in early 2016. Until recently I have had to lift the doors up slightly to get them to latch when closing - that's how much door sag. The door checks are gone gone gone. [Remember to not park next to anyone in a parking lot during a stiff breeze.] So when these door latches are not perfectly aligned, the latch resistance ultimately asks too much from the inside door pull rod given its diameter and geometry. Probably true for most vehicles. Anyway.....when opening from the outside you are lifting up on the door also - so it makes sense. The outside handle pull rod is short, vertical, and fairly straight. This is why from the outside I could always open the doors easily. The latch end of the inside handle pull rod was being held in place by the "pinched" latch assembly when the door was closed. You try opening the door from within and you are stretching a much longer and more awkward metal pull rod, that is all. Over time, this metal rod becomes elongated and, with the extra travel length this provides, you are not unlatching any door at all.
My rig was not driven between May of 2016 and Dec 2020. Five months after buying it, I let it sit for 4.5 years to give it some alone time to think about the all kinds of wrong it had experienced before I came along and saved it. I therefore didn't get to examining the door hinges until we evacuated communist New Mexico last year and moved back to Texas where I found an ancient and magical custom machine shop where (if you're awesome) you get to work with the owner on your project. Using some of the OG hinge parts, this old-school pro machinist and I worked together seamlessly for about 4 hours straight to custom fabricate new removable hinges that are much stronger than the OG. He loved working with me (naturally) and only charged me $40. Should have been a couple hundred at least.
So that's what I think happened and why it's likely very few first gen rig owners have had this kind of trouble with their doors in general. If your rig has been "pampered" and has never seen a dirt road continuously for 140K miles straight, then chances are your doors (and all else) are and will continue to be fine and dandy.
Try restoring totally abused vehicles and you, too, shall see what I see! (no assumption made)
There are plenty of unmotivated, lazy human beings in this world who shy away from controversy, from learning anything about the SYSTEMS they rely upon for survival, from learning about anything that questions their worldview, or from what should be a naturally occurring responsibility for SELF.............like mosquitoes fly fast and away from direct broad daylight. Count me as one who adds not to that sad list. (I could barely change the oil in my lawnmower in 2014 and now I do everything except for total engine and transmission overhauls - I went from some negative number to 88 mph quickly - If I had a legit shop then I'd stop at nothing to doing all the work myself)
I have learned a great deal from the comment sections of videos posted online - sometimes more than I learned from the videos themselves. This is why I take time to write, so that others (like me) may become better equipped to help themselves - to rely LESS ON OTHERS FOR EVERYTHING. Next we shall tackle farming skills, hunting skills, and the best methods of removing our families from a society so thoroughly sick in the head with, among many other things, mass psychosis that it cannot logically differentiate between the Truth and the lies being passed off as truth. The "Germ Theory" is called a theory because it is...........wait for it.........a theory. I'll just leave that right there. And the average American IQ level is like 90-something. What was it Hitler or one of his men said?......something about.........repeat a lie enough times and it becomes truth? Where are those weapons of mass destruction again? John Taylor Gatto - Weapons of Mass Instruction.....and.....The Underground History of American Education. New York's #1 educator tears the system a new one. Oops! Guess he's no longer considered by the system to be New York's finest! (sarcasm admitted)
Thanks again for this video and for responding.
TIP ON REMOVING WINDOW CRANKS....TAKE A RAG AND DRAG IT BETWEEN THE DOOR AND HANDLE, WIL REMOVE CLIP
As described in Haynes. Hey! Haynes actually had something worthwhile for once!
Do you have a video for removing the interior panels surrounding the xtra cab windows?
Unfortunately, I do not.
3:37 i did break the plastic how i can get new i got a Toyota Carina 2 dx 84
Check the dealership, or google "toyota door rod clip" and there are aftermarket ones out there. You just have to find the right shape for your door.
@@6thGearGarage thanks
Great Video do more lol!
I want to see a manual to electric door conversion! Want to do it to my Hilux and I think I will need 4runner doors to convert the rear.
Of the eight 84-88 trucks I’ve owned, only one had power doors and I don’t think they were original because the harness was full of butt connectors and scotch lock connectors. I’ve never tried to convert one to power, I actually like less electronics on these old trucks. Less things to go bad.
@@6thGearGarage True but there is something to have the convivence of locking the door with a fob or key and all the doors lock! LOL
@@buildadventure404 so true. I get so tired of explaining to a passenger “you have to lift up the handle when you shut the door for it to stay locked”. It’s just easier to lean over and lock it myself after they shut the door 😂
Wonder what is the P/N on those window chanel trims
I don't know, but last I heard, the dealership can still order them new for you.
do you know anything about adding power windows
I've never done it, but I think the hardest part would be the wiring. Aside from that you will need the power regulator and switches. My red 87 4wd had power doors added by the previous owner and the wiring was a mess... a bunch of scotchlok connectors and butt connectors. I was surprised everything worked.
@@6thGearGarage i think someone told me the plugs are already in the harness it just plug and play but wasnt sure
Does anyone know if the vent window seal from the toyota trucks will fit a first gen 4runner? They look similar enough but the part numbers are slightly different
I’m not sure why the part numbers would be different,as the doors and glass are the same. It should work 👍
@@6thGearGarage cool thanks
Holly crap man everytime i go to do something you have a video for it lol right on. Hey if possible ide love to buy them handle plugs off yu if u have all four? I also just finished revamping my plastic shifter surround havent wrapped it yet but there so brital and typically have hair line cracks i also fixed the clips that retain the boot all with jb marine weld and some cut up credit card and a bitta filler puddy its solid now man a bitta sanding then wrap sheel be better than new, thats my tip for the day.
I know what you mean, all of my shifter surrounds have had the hairline cracks as well. I'm going to hang on to the plugs because they go with the arm rests.
@@6thGearGarage yea no worries had to ask lol
Hi .. please can you make video step by step how put in 4x4 and how use for drive... Thanks
Hi, do you mean how to convert a 2wd to 4wd using the transfer case, axles, transmission etc... or just how to engage 4wd in a 4x4 model?
Not important, but those are '84 doors not '85
Oh thanks for the heads up! How can you tell the difference in years?