I've just replaced my Gen 1 Kenevo battery after 7500miles and 5.5 years as the battery, although still working, sometimes cuts off at 3 LEDs lit (it's supposed to go to 1 LED then flashing etc.) However, this inconsistency has persuaded me to get a new battery luckily discounted at the moment to 1/2 price of £420 + £30 pairing/updates at non-supplying dealer. I noticed the 1/2 price 'new' battery was manufactured in June 2021 so it's already 2.5 years old!! However, I've read that such batteries should still be good for at least the 2 year warranty period! RE: suspension servicing, I've lower leg serviced the forks myself every 500 miles. Both Fork and Shock have had 3 full services by a specialist over that period - that's about £600-£700 (not including cost of service parts and my labour for lower leg services). My Manic dropper seatpost has been returned to Upgradebikes for servicing (as service kits are not available) about 3 times - about £150 plus I've stripped and re-greased the dropper in-between full services myself. I've used about 10 chains - about £200-£300, with about 4 x new cassettes, jockey wheels and chainrings - about £400. Plus about 4 sets of tyres - about £150. I had three motors and a battery replaced during the 2 year warranty period and have had the motor professionally overhauled for about £300 - so far it's lasted much longer than any of the the brand new warranty motors! (Thanks Performance Line Bearings!) Thinking about it now, a brand new equivalent fork is about £400 so rather than going on hours/miles it might be just as cost effective to do nothing until the fork fails then either full service or replace - but it won't feel that great! On top of all that there were other service items - brake pads, bearings, wheel hubs, rims, lubes, cleaners, fluids etc. probably another £400-£500. That's about £2100-£2400 in total over 5 years. Obviously, the more expensive the fork the more cost effective regular servicing would be! As you do more riding on an ebike, drivetrain and suspension and tyres wear more quickly than on a regular MTB and as you can see the normal item maintenance costs are comparable with replacing the battery and replacing/overhauling the motor when required. My previous full-sus regular MTB got much less servicing but was ridden a lot less and probably more slowly. An eMTB definitely costs more to run I reckon; for a full sus probably at least twice as expensive over the same period - probably more. But I've used it much more (& further) and had more fun! More miles, more smiles but more money too! I have a hardtail I ride too and it costs much less to run by a mile and is still fun but much harder to ride as far/long/often!! To be honest my road going motorbike costs far less to run per mile - I did 5000 miles last year and it had 2 services - about £200, I had to put in petrol - maybe £400, plus £150 insurance, £70 road tax, total of about £820 per 5000 miles. Whereas, my eMTB is about £1600 per 5000 miles! And the purchase cost? - eMTB - £4500, Motorbike - £5000. Go figure!
Missed out the elephant in the room, the consumable item every ebike has, and is the single most expensive consumable to replace or repair- the battery! We need to start pushing the manufacturers to offer refurbishment options. i've got 2 levo batteries that have 90% good cells sitting in them that are paperweights because specialised brick the BMS if there are any faults, unable to repair and eyewateringly expensive to replace.
Batteries are components of my ebikes that are meticulously seviced correctly, in order to maintain consistent performance. For periods of longer than 3 days, they are always stored between 40% and 60% of full capacity, at a temperature between 5 and 35C. Chemical science, or ungodly?
@@bradsanders6954 paid under 600 euros for a new shimano motor, once it hit the shores of rip off britain that price shot up to over a 1000 euros with taxes
@@megane230f1 That is shocking and scary. Hope I never have to pay anything like that if/when a motor breaks and fitting yourself as well! Sounds like a right hassle!
Mr. Coutts, another great video on Maintenence. I clean my bike and of course driver train after every ride. I also check my Chain with a measurement tool to keep an eye on Chain wear so as to try and not damage my Cassette. Plus I really appreciate a fine working ride when you are spending the time to do it and know your next ride will be as fun as the previous ride and all will be in great working order! I love my wireless drive train... removes Cable management as another wear item and works so reliably I would not have it any other way.
Great video Owen. Perhaps your best video to date? All excellent advice. I agree with you about service intervals, and about purchasing a bike with sensible more rugged components rather than lightweight components intended for racing. I ride about 8+ hours per week. So, based on your suspension-mate's advice, I reckon I would need to get my shock and forks serviced about once every 3 months. Hmmm, I must confess for my S-Works Turbo Levo, I have only had the forks serviced 3 times in 7 years. My shock has only been serviced once in the last 7 years and is booked in for a service next week. I reckon I have got away with less frequent servicing because I don't thrash my bike super hard. At age 72, I tend to ride more conservatively to save my body from injuries. Tyres tend to last me 1.5 to 2 years. Brake pads and brake bleeds around once a year. I do most of my servicing myself, and that lowers my costs considerably. I do shop around for components on special pricing. But, I always replace components with the same or better quality than the original specs. I always wash my bike thoroughly and care for the chain after EVERY ride. Oh, and electricity for charging comes from my solar panels. One thing I have done, which was mentioned in your video, is install a Rohloff 14-speed rear hub. Thereby eliminating most of the cost of gear mech tuning and services. It really made a difference to the reliability and longevity of the whole drive train. With the added bonus that I get well over 600% gear range compared to a little over 500% from my old Sram Eagle mech. So now I can climb steeper hills more easily. About 18 months ago, I had the Brose motor on my Turbo Levo fully reconditioned by PureSports here in Queensland. They replaced all the bearings and seals with stronger components and added quite a few more seals to help make the Brose motor much more waterproof and dustproof. I couldn't believe how much better the motor performs now. The improved pulling power and lower battery consumption are well worth the investment. The PureSports folks are also Australia's Rohloff distributors. So they installed the Rohloff at the same time. All up this cost me about $AUD3000. This included building me a new rear wheel as well. For an e-bike that cost me $AUD10,500 new, back in 2017 I reckon it was worth spending. Especially when a new S-Works Turbo Levo had inflated to over $AUD21,000 by 2022 when I had this work done.
To be honest, out of like the 15 MTB guys I know NO ONE services their suspension every 100 hours. I don’t know another EMTB rider but I also won’t be doing anything to it until I encounter an issue. And that one guy said he does it every 30 hours!? Sorry but that seems very wasteful.
I have never heard of anyone doing it every 30 hours. This is something that Fox recommend. That to me would make the fork (or shock) something of a White Elephant.
@@grannyjone absolutely! Just fix it when broken I say. I do clean them and put silicone on them before every ride. I have had RockShox 30 GOLD RL A2 Suspension Fork on my hard tail since 2018! I’ve ridden it on average about 8 hours a month. That’s over 500 hours and it still works really good. Haven’t serviced it once! 🤷🏻♂️ I just got an EMTB so I barely ride it now, watch it go bad now 😆 use it or lose it.
UK all year riding, new drive chain every 600-700km, do it myself, shop around hunt parts before you need it, always have a set on the shelf, last change was cheap sram pg1210 12 speed cassette £36 chain GX £25, new sram steel chainring £20 so £81, 4500km last year so atleast 6 drive chains a year!! clearly ebike drive chains are not up to the job....gearbox and drivebelt would save £££'s over 3 years
the cassette should last much longer- on my eMTBs the chain lasts about 800 km, I change the chain ring every two chains- but I have never worn a cassette down to be honest
Recommended suspension servicing intervals are greatly exaggerated and mainly intend to sell expensive servicing kits and lubricants. Limiting suspension maintenance to reg. cleaning and lower legs/aircan service can make those expensive rubber seals last a long time.
Who rebuilds their suspension every 6 months? I've owned my current Ebike for 3 years and have only replaced the chain, cassette and one set of tyres. Other than checking pressures nothing has been done with the suspension. 1750 miles.
Supposed to do lower leg service and air can service every 50 hours, to me I think most people leave it longer than that though to about 75 hours because it is a pain
I don’t see the sense at all in running high end expensive drive trains on an emtb? I get at least 600 miles per chain at £25 each and three chains per £70 cassette. A lot of people I see out on the trails can’t change gear properly and just crunch through them without backing off the power, it sounds horrendous! You also have to go to the effort to clean the drive train and relube the chain if you want it to last.
Power used...Trail mode vs. turbo modes is definitely drivetrain wear dependent as well = mellow shifting vs. crunch shifting (even when backing off the pedal feedback).
If you're just using it for commuting on rough terrain then perhaps consider building (£1.5K) for a decent spec or buying an electric fat bike 😊. I do it don't have a car maintenance be mainly brakes 2K miles, tyres 3k miles and the tools amd fluids it adds up to more than youd expect
I think international service interval is a bust. Use case scenarios are very different. I live in FlatLands and moat of my MTB rides are flat with not a lot stress on the components and suspension. Rides are at least 30 km long, mostly 50+ km. in 3500 km only replaced casette, 12 speed SLX which is cheap and chain. Plus rearbrake pads. Full service done once a year including suspension. EMTB gets around 1500 km a season which is about 6 months. But I have a gravel bike that gets more miles for sure. Still full service once a year and rest as necessary. Suits me.
this may be more for people who DO NOT take care of there bikes at all or don't know how to... maintenance is the key.. a little bit after EVERY ride adds up to a lot more use of your bike. just clean the sanctions/ suspension after every ride. clean and dry your chain. dry your whole bike after lightly spraying/ cleaning. DO NOT USE A PRESSURE WASHER! DO NOT SPRAY THE MOTOR DIRECTLY- the water will blow right thru the bearings and into the motor case. use proper cleaner like muc-off for specific components. and GREASE ALL YOUR PIVOT POINTS to keep the mud and water out of the bearings. after 2 going on 3 years with the SAME emtb ridden very hard ALL ACROSS THE COUNTRY in super harsh conditions and i only had to change the brakes and tires...oh and one spoke broke.. battery cells still at roughly 95%.. so keep your battery between 15% and 85% for long term storage to keep from damaging your battery. Also keep it inside in the heat during the winter. most of what i spent on my emtb has been protection for it. Fenders front and rear both, full skin kit for the frame and custom full downtube mounted kydex bash guard. New carbon bars and rev grips. Rides like a dream and is soooooooooo Protected from most that life throws at it.
Sounds lile i am better off just keeping my old 26" scott with full suspension. 2008 bike. Never had to change anything but tyres and a couple of pads. Serviced the shocks once in that time. Everything still works great. New bikes seem to be more expensive and just designed to fail
I believe the cost percentage is equal to the bikes value. To be fair I need to factor in that I have no clue what a bike shop charges as I build and service my own bikes. My first ebike was a second hand Chinese generic one, yes, it was a poor hub drive and it eventually died on me but it got me hooked on ebikes. Cost of servicing was not more than any generic supermarket bike where about £50 would get you the whole drivetrain plus brakes replaced when needed. My Current 2017 Levo parts wise is obviously more but I do clean and relube it after every ride as I keep it in the house, once a year in winter I remove all the covers and clean/treat the electric connections as surprisingly the water gets into many of these and you could easily run into problems if left (and I know of one that cuts out etc due to electric gremlins). So far 2500+ miles and apart from a couple of sets of tyres (mostly experimenting for size/grip) and some brake pads it has been great. Original battery and motor so far. Time will tell how long this will last.
I have a 2024 Canyon Torque on CF8. I have a battery and a motor but the rest of the bike is analog. Shimano XT and SLX is dirt cheap. You don’t need AXS Transmission an electronic dropper or auto shift.use an all steel cassette the most heavy duty chain and a steel chain ring. If you turn your bike upside down it replenishes the seals on the shock and you do not have to service the suspension all the time.
Think mine cost the same a year as my fridge freezer uses nothing noticable yet! Wait till April till we get hit even harder with the next cost of living crisis! Price's haven't been as high since 1948 their saying! Should be fun!
Its £74 for an Deore XT derailleur for my emtb I won't be changing to anything more expensive that's perfect normal riders don't go through as much maybe every second year alot people I know don't have any issues don't need to replace anything for this time think they replace a chain once a year regular monthly servicing think it's just that thing people try and drill into people's heads to frighten them to pay up
My eMTB is fairly new, just 2000km on it. I routinely check the chain, lube it, make sure everything is tight and no rattling. END OF. I would never have the motor ‘serviced’ and spend good money on something that’s not necessary. Some of your video is just a bit over the top IMHO. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
£3500 per year, or £50 a ride, is about avg for me. I’m not high end, SRAM NX drive train for example. But I’ve gone through 2 shocks, 2 forks, 3 motors, 2 batteries, 3 entire brake systems, 4 rock guards, 5 cables, warped 6 rotors, 4 derailleurs, destroyed 3 rear wheels, 6 sets of pivot frame bearings. I wont mention chains cassettes pads etc as lost count and these are expected. I do some maintenance myself but anything harder than bleeding brakes I take it to mechanic. Lots of labour costs particularly with suspension servicing.
I have a nx drivetrain but have upgraded my derailleur to a gx and I may change the chain if it will up the lifespan of the cassette but I’m not going to bother changing the hub and cassette from the nx.
I have the solution to vandals cutting your control cables and turning that $6000 eMTB into a brick. Use 3.5 mm replacement extension cable male to male plug. You can get that at any Radio Shack or The Source for less than $5. Just modify your eMTB to accept 3.5mm audio cable instead of the regular control cables. Avoid bluetooth Just my opinion
i like your assessment of a bike in the $5000 range is more affordable to do repairs on vs $ 9000 but what about the quality of the metal used to build the parts? is the parts on a $5000 bike going to wear faster then the $9000 or is it going to be fairly similar?
You will find on average more expensive parts do wear faster as they tend to use light weight materials such as alloy as more premium parts tend to prioritise weight over longevity…. Cheaper cassettes tend to be heavier but made from much more durable materials such as steel, I personally would never go for an expensive drivetrain and actually wish we could build our own spec on more bikes! As it’s so rear to find a bike spec with a high end suspension and brakes with a cheaper drivetrain but that’s exactly how I’d build my bike! lol
@anonymousone6075 my username is obvious i like fishing, so i was drawing parallel to the fishing industry of something i didn't know. you could buy a fishing reel at a department store and buy one at an actual fishing store, both are identical physically same make and model etc.. i found this out from a fishing reel repair shop saying the reels from the fishing store is of a much higher quality metal then the department store one is of a lesser quality metal so its affordable. i was trying to find out if a lower cost ebike and such is the same principle. is a cheaper ebike parts of a lesser quality metal parts then a higher priced ebike. my current ebike is close to the same in millage as yours and so far i have not changed or repaired anything as alot of the usage has been on bike paths, fire roads and such, only the last year or two is when i started to hit the more technical trails and will purchase a new chain soon for a just in case scenario
went 1000 miles. in 8 months. To work, bike park, and to friends....never changed anything. Chain is still ok (checked it) the teeth on the kassette are equally fine... Brakepads are fine... My batterie is still giving me the same milage... ??
@anonymousone6075 yes chain was checked @900 miles.. Shimano. My rear Tyre is a continental kryptal. An fine for at least this season.. Maybe up to 2000.. I have three front. They should last for ever.. Didn't see any wear... Schwalbe Sam Plus in 29 for road and gravel, conti kryptal 29 for single trail and a 27.5 maxxis assegai for bike park... And from my analog bike I could use the Schwalbe noby nick 29 too
Average ride 20km s ??? i am 60 and ride 40 km to the enduro park and 40 km back plus 2 rounds of the park (halde) big pit area. So perhaps that is whats eating up the chains the should never have bought the shite in the first place ,before some one says the obvious i have no car for transport.
I wish companies like Shimano and sram would stop wasting there time selling wireless BS drivetrains and start investing in belt drive and gear boxes! Pinion are almost there and if it can be perfected it would resolve so many issues!!! There would be minimum maintenance costs, much better weight distribution!! And improved suspension performance! But no, SRAM and Shimano are more interested in selling us 2k wireless drivetrains that have minimal improvements and resolve no current issues except having 1 less cable in your cockpit 😂 about time the industry gets told we don’t actually want mechs or heavy cassettes! We want belts and gearboxes and bikes that actually last!!!!
@anonymousone6075 absolutely right! My head begins to hurt when these “professionals” start to talk about changing a cassette or bleeding brakes as if it were some dark science, accessible only to a special club of people… then they hand you a bike where the cranks haven’t been torqued down, the brakes have more air than fluid and every time You change gear it sounds like you’ve cracked a rib. Charge you a couple of hundred dollars and worse still when you attempt to raise the issue they come out with some mumbo jumbo about it needing time to “bed-in” or that it’s supposed to be like that!
Last time I went to a Bosch Dealer in Lisbon/Portugal (Biclas do Rio @Algés), they asked 50€ just to read errors and make a pdf, because the bike was not bought there... and only thinking that I was about to buy a Citybike there.............was!
I really considered link-glide in my recent change to shimano, but i dont trust its going to last 3 times as long. Would be ideal if link-glide cassette could work effectively as a standard XT mech this would be cool (please test @embnTech). I went with the XT cassette, mech, chain bundle at a third of the costs with a view of replacing more regularly. Key point is, if i crash damage the rear mech i am looking at replacement cost of £100 rather than £300
The rich and greedy have found another source of income from the peasants. Like fish and chips used to be the food of the poor man, cycling used to be cheap transport, now both aren't any longer. Also bikes aren't built to the standards they should be for the conditions of use.
BUY WHAT IT WAS BORN WITH THE HOLE SYSTEM MUST BE CLEAN AND OILED. WHER THE ELECTRIC CONNECTION WHITE LITHIUM ELECTRIC GREASE. THIS IS THE IMPORTANT THING KEEP THAT ELECTRIC CONNECTION CLEAN AND LUBED AUTOMOBILE BRAKE CLEANER WILL CLEAN THE ELECTRIC AND EVERY THING ELSE CAREFUL YOU DON'T BLAST CLEANER AIRASAL CLEAR UNDER THE SEALS OF THE MOTOR. WHICH CAN BE DISMANTLED AND GONE THROUGH...
WHY ARE YOU TYPING IN ALLCAPS IT IS EYERAPE TO READ AND DID YOU KNOW THAT PUNCTUATION EXISTS TO PREVENT US FROM LOOKING LIKE WE ARE GOING TO RUN OUT OF BREATH FROM SHOUTING AN EXTREMELY LONG SENTENCE LIKE THIS WITHOUT STOPPING BUT THANKS I WILL CONSIDER THE POINTS RAISED IN YOUR WONDERFULLY CONFUSING ADVICE POST BUT WAIT ACTUALLY WHY DID YOU ONLY USE AN INACCURATE ELLIPSIS AS THE ONLY PUNCTUATION IS THERE MORE I WONDER DID YOU PASS OUT FROM NOT BREATHING???...???...$%%££%£%£$£^t£)*(&*
Did he seriously say £2,000-2,200 for 2,000 miles. That is more pr. mile than the running costs of most cars and significantly more than most motorcycles! Can that really be true??? It would be about £10,000 yearly to substitute the car with an eBike, riding 10,000 miles a year. I REALLY hope this isn't the case. Is it?
My average ride costs me far more than what you quoted. It has been £50 per ride and the length is usually 20 to 30 miles. So more than £1 per mile. But if replacing a car you will be riding on roads. Riding off road is where it is expensive as it causes breakages, puts everything under far more strain, it uses the expensive suspension and exposes all electrical and mechanical components on the bike to very high levels of water, mud or dust
@@stefanhansen5882 I am very surprised to hear that a motorcycle would cost less than what is being quoted here to run an EMTB off road. I don’t have any experience with motorbikes off road though, but can only think E Bikes cost so much more because the components are light weight and not very durable ? Also some MTB components have very short service intervals for sure
@@grannyjone I was surprised too. I was considering an e-MTB instead of riding a dual sport motorcycle, to be able to get into national parks where motorcycles are forbidden. However, a good small motorcycle (e.g. Honda CRF300L) will cost less than £0.20 per mile (unless you wreck it). This includes the depreciation of the bike.
That's most likely the price if you're absolutely trashing the bike and do 0 mainstenance youself. You could replace a car with an ebike and for cummuting and spend about a 5% of that for the same distance if not even less
Don’t waste your money on high end drivetrain. A Deore XT combo is just fine. Here in southern Alberta we don’t ride in the muck you Brits ride in. My own Doddy has aGen 1 Levo approaching 30 K one motor and one battery since 2017.
I swapped mine for the new Sram transmission. It's futuristic, shifting feels fun, and it honestly works much better for me (I'd hope so for the ungodly amount I paid...). Granted, I'm a huuuuge sucker for tech, but hey. I love it. So for me it wasn't a waste of money 😊 To each their own.
I watched my dad fix his vehicles when they broke. I learned very quickly how expensive it was so I became a maintenance person. I saved a lot of money on my cycles, motorcycles and vehicles as I've moved throughout my life. It's the only way to go, in my opinion. Maintenance is almost always cheaper than repair when broken. There's a couple of things I would like to see in the Ebike world, not just the EMB world. I would like to see standardization of batteries, chargers etc so one could purchase batteries for their bike instead of just purchase one from the manufacturer of the bike. It's good for the environment, for the parts suppliers and for the consumer. A standardization of the motor mounting system would also benefit the consumer a lot more than the proprietary system we have right now.
Hardly, I got an all steel 11/51 shimano cassette for 39.99 on ebay, SLX parts arent that pricey and they work great.OEM Chain can be had for 25.00 US. If you bury the thing in water and mud, it will get very pricey.
Absolutely agree. My analogue bike is 10 years old and there's as much chance of servicing the fork as me winning next year's tour de France. My cube emtb is probably going to wear the chain more but its only £25 for a 122 link chain and regular self maintenance, I really don't think this video is going to encourage people to buy an electric
I have to say, that I don't find the cost of maintenance - outside of some key items - that much different to a standard MTB. If my maintenance costs are higher, its because I ride the bike soooooooooooooo much more. So it is self inflicted in that regard. However, I ride in the same terrain and more on the EMTB. Great vid BTW!
Its when the big stuff breaks out of warranty when it is really bad compared to a normal MTB. Like batteries and motors, which I have heard people paying £1000 for each
Fantastic video, great insight, I’m totally new to e-bikes. I’ve just bought the Orbea Wild M-team, with bog standard XT drivetrain, I intend to ride it as much as I can, want to get fitter/healthier? I’m aiming to get my fox forks, shock and dropper service once a year, and replace parts as and when they need it, just going to maintain it as best I can. Fingers crossed it won’t be too bad?? Keep up the awesome videos.👍👍
5500 kms on my Giant trance E. Full drive train XT replaced 5 times( shimano hyperglide) , 6 set of tyres ( minnion DHR/DHF, now on Schwable Eddy Current), brake pads 6 times ( shimano) , original fork never serviced as well as shock ( Fox 36, DPS, they are fine, i oil and clean them) I clean deeply and lube the chain and rear mech after each rides !! I don t wash or use water on it, i don t ride in the rain ( south africa) So Far, same as my normal mtb beside getting pissed off by the 500 wh range or 1h10 mins = 30 kms Flat out. All working perfectly , bike is restricted to 32 km/ hour, I ride exclusively off road in exposed terrain.
Remember Neil Young's Lamborghini. Who scratched the beautiful paint job on your Countach. It was a fan. Now ask Peter why the Chinese in Toronto hate Peter. The same reason they love Neil Young so much they scratched up his Lamborghini Countach outside Sam the Record Man. Jealousy. Why are they jealous? Because Neil Young is a famous musician with millions and Peter doesn't have to work. Peter also gets rent geared to income housing and social assistance. Now I am retired on a government pension. OAS-GIS $1600 per month and CPP $255 per month my rent is fixed at 30 percent of my annual income. I'm richer than Neil Young. That is why they hate me and swarm me all over the TTC. Plus I am protected by constant private surveillance called the Skansa Group of Karen WHICH IS MONITORED BY EVERYONE ON EARTH 8 billion eyes protect me my name is Lloyd in Dumb and Dumber. Karen followed rice bowl haircut Lloyd to Suisha Gardens in Ottawa and the rest is history
Besides the $100 per tire, $100 per chain, $120 per cassette $50 per brakes, $100. Per helmet, $50 per gloves. $120 for shoes, I had to replace my battery$700. Hmmmm
Hahaha what a joke.. i run a bbshd 1000w, deore 10speed setup standard chain to suit, basic shimano hydralic brakes, and a decent rear hub and some $500 aud suntour forks...i have beaten the crap out of it for the past few years on and off road racked up 15000km on it....few sets of tires, brake pads and a few chains and cassettes..learn to do your own basic preventative maintenance and servicing, its not hard....might have spent $5-600 on it... If you go and spend big bux on a high end emtb well yer costs go up because you have to get that specific part.. build ya own emtb and the prices come down drastically and the durability is increased massively...i will put my built emtb up against any of these brought 250w gutless things!
So like all gmbn embn channels. Their's little to no useful information. Talking about hire bikes then pretty much saying nothing as always and sticking to the middle line of we know nothing really but here's some bs for the noobs. Keep posting bs vids 😎👍
An ebike is a bit like a car I guess. You can go into endless technical details but you buy just to ride it. You just bring it in after so many kilometers or every year and then all the components get serviced. You should be able to buy it with a service plan.
50hr for rear float X service recommended that would be like every week stripping your shock maybe less that's alot! I don't hammer the shite out my emtb like alot people ride like they stole it sorta thing i can't just go replace something this costly easy and won't get any easier either soon with prices going up to sky highest ever so just waiting to see what we are gonna be taxed on with the bike part's!
The title of this vlog is deceptive. Lits of of talk about obvious facts but no indicative costs of running an ebike. The message appears to be, spend your money if it gives you pleasure. Not very useful.
Is the hair some kind of in-joke for subscribers? Did you lose a bet? Is there some rare migratory bird nesting in there, and it would be illegal to get it cut until the chicks leave?
Great video but guys you forgot to work in the costs of a third world country like South Africa where i live the prices for drivetrains and ebikes is sky high
I've a Cube Reaction Hard tail. I was going on the local downhill track...I was around 12th out of 284 embners on Strava and I have a few KOMs mostly on uphill segments. Then I decided to stick on single tracks...trails and roads...in 5 years I've changed my cassette, sprocket and chain once and done over 13,200 miles I've changed brake pads 4 times but not the rotas. I've been through 4 sets of pedals. 2 sets of grips. 6 tyres and 1 rear brake lever all in that 5 years. I'm OCD on the drive chain. I'd say I've getting VFM out of this bike.
With such short service intervals for forks it makes a great case for running higher end Suntour forks if you wanta cost effective bike. Yes you still need to service the lower legs, but the damper is a sealed unit... so you just run it until doesn't work... then pop in a replacement. I think most people will change their bike before they exceed the damper's useful life.
It really depends how you ride! I can spent over 300euros in a weekend, if things are ridden like it was stolen! Pair of tires 120 A RD+hanger 100 Suspension service 150 Riding normally A set of tires Suspension service Brake pads + bleed Cables + chainlube + bike cleaner This for 1.000 km Has parts get used --> drivetrain, brake discs, rims, headset, seatpost service
the maintenance infrastructure seems to be much better in the UK.. I have no idea where I would even have my suspension serviced in my area to be honest. Especially without having the bike gone for weeks. I might have to do it myself- but a 30h interval feels completely unrealistic
You don't discuss the battery at all. Apparently Shimano doesn't make the external batteries anymore, and while everything else is still serviceable, I will have to replace my bike because of the battery eventually
im pumping up to 2500w through shimano deior 10sp with a ekmc chain for last two years no issues yet. im always worried something is going to break! but till then fun fun fun and maintenance
I have a Turbo Levo & have just passed over 2,000km. It’s going to cost £240 to have it serviced & although this might seem steep, I’d rather have it back knowing I’ve done my best to keep it going for another year without major maintenance. When you think about the overall costs involved with ebiking & the equipment, any sane person would just take up walking & splash out on a good pair of Asics! 😂
Why not try servicing it yourself, rthere's loads of videos here and GMBN Tech on most items you can do yourself, or why not by the GMBN/EMBN Tech manual..
I'd be interested to find out if most people fully charge their ebike before they go out, regardless of time they'll be out for? I usually charge my bike to around 80% when not in use, and if I know I'm only going out for a couple of hours I won't bother topping it up to 100% because I won't get through a full charge in that time.
I always charge to full and I do that every time I get below 50% or before a longer ride. I also let the bike with battery in the cold garage all year round and for all I know the battery has about the same capacity as it always had. I do own one older EMTB from about 2015 with a gen 1 Bosch motor and a 400kW battery.. and even that bike still has about the same range now..
@anonymousone6075 Yeah, that's pretty much how I look after my battery. I noticed the percentage usually drops 2 to 3 % a week if left unused. I don't let it get too low, but it's never left for longer than about a month before I actually get out for a ride.
I ran a Shimano xt drive train on my last E bike .... £160 for a derailleur but they don't seem to be strong enough for an E bike and the style of riding ido ...... As I went through 8 of them inn 2 years 😅😅 2 cassettes and 3 or 4 chains .... I now own the SRAM T type and I'm hoping itle last me about 2 years without changing anything...... Maybe a chain which I can get for £55/65 if so this will level out price wise with the Shimano xt drive train........
The new SRAM T-Type is a great option Burgieee123. hopefully it should last you a long time as you can purchase a rebuild kit if necessary 🤙would be great to hear your experience
@@embnye il definitely let you guys know how I get along with it 👌🏻 and i will be doing some research on those rebuild kits if it means saving cost on the way as the actual derailleurs cost a fortune 😅👌🏻
Even Cycling is for the rich now! Don't see youngsters riding bikes like we used when we were younger these bikes don't help. Yes world has changed but bikes same price of cars please.
100% agree with you I don't care what anyone says £10k-£12k on some of these things is crazy money. you can buy a brand new motor bike for that which would have cos a lot more to build than any emtb ever has or will.
The same old argument has been debunked time and time again... you can get a nice hardtail MTB for less than $1000, and plenty of full-suspension bikes under $2000, and even eMTBs from around $4000 these days... Buying a high-end MTB is like buying a Porsche or Ferrari compared to a Volkswagen or Ford Fiesta - you're buying the highest performance/specification (and in many cases with MTBs the same components the pros are actually racing), but there is still something out there for everyone, depending on your budget.
@@jmo2752 yeah I agree with that but still crazy money to mere mortals 😂. I’ve just bought one for £4k new a orbea wild h20 and I love it tbh not the greatest spec but more than enough for what I’d ever put it through.
Emtbs can be expensive if you choose to buy an expensive one, but if you shop around for good deals on new bikes or look out for used bargains if you are mechanically minded then you can spend very little. There are good new full-sus bikes from around £3500 and used from £1500. You may have to sacrifice certain things like battery capacity, but even a 400 / 500wh battery will still allow an all day ride as long as you are economic with power modes on a longer ride. Lightweight riders can get away with smaller batteries than heavier riders. Also you don't need high end components. Sram NX or Shimano Deore drivetrains shift great and are durable. Quality Suntour air forks like the Aion range are cost effective, durable, and to the average rider feel as good as the big 2 brands. There is really no need to spend any more than £4500 unless you just want nicer stuff, but it's the same with cars. If you are on a budget get a Dacia and you will enjoy it... if you have a ton of disposable income then why not go all out and buy a Porche or Mercedes.
How much have you spent on your eBike since buying it? Share your experiences with everyone below! 👇
I've just replaced my Gen 1 Kenevo battery after 7500miles and 5.5 years as the battery, although still working, sometimes cuts off at 3 LEDs lit (it's supposed to go to 1 LED then flashing etc.) However, this inconsistency has persuaded me to get a new battery luckily discounted at the moment to 1/2 price of £420 + £30 pairing/updates at non-supplying dealer. I noticed the 1/2 price 'new' battery was manufactured in June 2021 so it's already 2.5 years old!! However, I've read that such batteries should still be good for at least the 2 year warranty period! RE: suspension servicing, I've lower leg serviced the forks myself every 500 miles. Both Fork and Shock have had 3 full services by a specialist over that period - that's about £600-£700 (not including cost of service parts and my labour for lower leg services). My Manic dropper seatpost has been returned to Upgradebikes for servicing (as service kits are not available) about 3 times - about £150 plus I've stripped and re-greased the dropper in-between full services myself. I've used about 10 chains - about £200-£300, with about 4 x new cassettes, jockey wheels and chainrings - about £400. Plus about 4 sets of tyres - about £150. I had three motors and a battery replaced during the 2 year warranty period and have had the motor professionally overhauled for about £300 - so far it's lasted much longer than any of the the brand new warranty motors! (Thanks Performance Line Bearings!) Thinking about it now, a brand new equivalent fork is about £400 so rather than going on hours/miles it might be just as cost effective to do nothing until the fork fails then either full service or replace - but it won't feel that great! On top of all that there were other service items - brake pads, bearings, wheel hubs, rims, lubes, cleaners, fluids etc. probably another £400-£500. That's about £2100-£2400 in total over 5 years. Obviously, the more expensive the fork the more cost effective regular servicing would be! As you do more riding on an ebike, drivetrain and suspension and tyres wear more quickly than on a regular MTB and as you can see the normal item maintenance costs are comparable with replacing the battery and replacing/overhauling the motor when required. My previous full-sus regular MTB got much less servicing but was ridden a lot less and probably more slowly. An eMTB definitely costs more to run I reckon; for a full sus probably at least twice as expensive over the same period - probably more. But I've used it much more (& further) and had more fun! More miles, more smiles but more money too! I have a hardtail I ride too and it costs much less to run by a mile and is still fun but much harder to ride as far/long/often!! To be honest my road going motorbike costs far less to run per mile - I did 5000 miles last year and it had 2 services - about £200, I had to put in petrol - maybe £400, plus £150 insurance, £70 road tax, total of about £820 per 5000 miles. Whereas, my eMTB is about £1600 per 5000 miles! And the purchase cost? - eMTB - £4500, Motorbike - £5000. Go figure!
Missed out the elephant in the room, the consumable item every ebike has, and is the single most expensive consumable to replace or repair- the battery!
We need to start pushing the manufacturers to offer refurbishment options. i've got 2 levo batteries that have 90% good cells sitting in them that are paperweights because specialised brick the BMS if there are any faults, unable to repair and eyewateringly expensive to replace.
Batteries are components of my ebikes that are meticulously seviced correctly, in order to maintain consistent performance. For periods of longer than 3 days, they are always stored between 40% and 60% of full capacity, at a temperature between 5 and 35C. Chemical science, or ungodly?
Try the out of warranty motor 👍 900 quid and thats me fitting it myselve
@@megane230f1New EP8 motor can be had for 600 US. They were over 800 a while ago. So prices came down. Shimano also does a trade in on motors.
@@bradsanders6954 paid under 600 euros for a new shimano motor, once it hit the shores of rip off britain that price shot up to over a 1000 euros with taxes
@@megane230f1 That is shocking and scary. Hope I never have to pay anything like that if/when a motor breaks and fitting yourself as well! Sounds like a right hassle!
Mr. Coutts, another great video on Maintenence. I clean my bike and of course driver train after every ride. I also check my Chain with a measurement tool to keep an eye on Chain wear so as to try and not damage my Cassette. Plus I really appreciate a fine working ride when you are spending the time to do it and know your next ride will be as fun as the previous ride and all will be in great working order! I love my wireless drive train... removes Cable management as another wear item and works so reliably I would not have it any other way.
Yep, stick to entry or mid level bike models, unless you are a pro or are rich 😂
Great video Owen. Perhaps your best video to date? All excellent advice. I agree with you about service intervals, and about purchasing a bike with sensible more rugged components rather than lightweight components intended for racing.
I ride about 8+ hours per week. So, based on your suspension-mate's advice, I reckon I would need to get my shock and forks serviced about once every 3 months. Hmmm, I must confess for my S-Works Turbo Levo, I have only had the forks serviced 3 times in 7 years. My shock has only been serviced once in the last 7 years and is booked in for a service next week.
I reckon I have got away with less frequent servicing because I don't thrash my bike super hard. At age 72, I tend to ride more conservatively to save my body from injuries. Tyres tend to last me 1.5 to 2 years. Brake pads and brake bleeds around once a year. I do most of my servicing myself, and that lowers my costs considerably. I do shop around for components on special pricing. But, I always replace components with the same or better quality than the original specs. I always wash my bike thoroughly and care for the chain after EVERY ride. Oh, and electricity for charging comes from my solar panels.
One thing I have done, which was mentioned in your video, is install a Rohloff 14-speed rear hub. Thereby eliminating most of the cost of gear mech tuning and services. It really made a difference to the reliability and longevity of the whole drive train. With the added bonus that I get well over 600% gear range compared to a little over 500% from my old Sram Eagle mech. So now I can climb steeper hills more easily.
About 18 months ago, I had the Brose motor on my Turbo Levo fully reconditioned by PureSports here in Queensland. They replaced all the bearings and seals with stronger components and added quite a few more seals to help make the Brose motor much more waterproof and dustproof. I couldn't believe how much better the motor performs now. The improved pulling power and lower battery consumption are well worth the investment. The PureSports folks are also Australia's Rohloff distributors. So they installed the Rohloff at the same time. All up this cost me about $AUD3000. This included building me a new rear wheel as well. For an e-bike that cost me $AUD10,500 new, back in 2017 I reckon it was worth spending. Especially when a new S-Works Turbo Levo had inflated to over $AUD21,000 by 2022 when I had this work done.
To be honest, out of like the 15 MTB guys I know NO ONE services their suspension every 100 hours. I don’t know another EMTB rider but I also won’t be doing anything to it until I encounter an issue.
And that one guy said he does it every 30 hours!? Sorry but that seems very wasteful.
I have never heard of anyone doing it every 30 hours. This is something that Fox recommend. That to me would make the fork (or shock) something of a White Elephant.
@@grannyjone absolutely! Just fix it when broken I say. I do clean them and put silicone on them before every ride. I have had RockShox 30 GOLD RL A2 Suspension Fork on my hard tail since 2018! I’ve ridden it on average about 8 hours a month. That’s over 500 hours and it still works really good. Haven’t serviced it once! 🤷🏻♂️
I just got an EMTB so I barely ride it now, watch it go bad now 😆 use it or lose it.
UK all year riding, new drive chain every 600-700km, do it myself, shop around hunt parts before you need it, always have a set on the shelf, last change was cheap sram pg1210 12 speed cassette £36 chain GX £25, new sram steel chainring £20 so £81, 4500km last year so atleast 6 drive chains a year!! clearly ebike drive chains are not up to the job....gearbox and drivebelt would save £££'s over 3 years
Could probably go from 700km to 2000km by waxing
the cassette should last much longer- on my eMTBs the chain lasts about 800 km, I change the chain ring every two chains- but I have never worn a cassette down to be honest
@@olik136 its always 11th or 12th that suffer the most for me, not worth slipping onto your nuts
Recommended suspension servicing intervals are greatly exaggerated and mainly intend to sell expensive servicing kits and lubricants. Limiting suspension maintenance to reg. cleaning and lower legs/aircan service can make those expensive rubber seals last a long time.
Who rebuilds their suspension every 6 months? I've owned my current Ebike for 3 years and have only replaced the chain, cassette and one set of tyres. Other than checking pressures nothing has been done with the suspension. 1750 miles.
Supposed to do lower leg service and air can service every 50 hours, to me I think most people leave it longer than that though to about 75 hours because it is a pain
I am sure 98% of all bikes and 85% of mountain bikes never see any suspension service.
Which ebike do you have? Any increasing noise in your motor, just curious? Thx.
I don’t see the sense at all in running high end expensive drive trains on an emtb? I get at least 600 miles per chain at £25 each and three chains per £70 cassette. A lot of people I see out on the trails can’t change gear properly and just crunch through them without backing off the power, it sounds horrendous!
You also have to go to the effort to clean the drive train and relube the chain if you want it to last.
Power used...Trail mode vs. turbo modes is definitely drivetrain wear dependent as well = mellow shifting vs. crunch shifting (even when backing off the pedal feedback).
If you're just using it for commuting on rough terrain then perhaps consider building (£1.5K) for a decent spec or buying an electric fat bike 😊. I do it don't have a car maintenance be mainly brakes 2K miles, tyres 3k miles and the tools amd fluids it adds up to more than youd expect
2000 $ per year , it's shit.... a more conservative estemation is 500 euro per year.
I think international service interval is a bust. Use case scenarios are very different. I live in FlatLands and moat of my MTB rides are flat with not a lot stress on the components and suspension. Rides are at least 30 km long, mostly 50+ km. in 3500 km only replaced casette, 12 speed SLX which is cheap and chain. Plus rearbrake pads. Full service done once a year including suspension. EMTB gets around 1500 km a season which is about 6 months. But I have a gravel bike that gets more miles for sure. Still full service once a year and rest as necessary. Suits me.
this may be more for people who DO NOT take care of there bikes at all or don't know how to... maintenance is the key.. a little bit after EVERY ride adds up to a lot more use of your bike. just clean the sanctions/ suspension after every ride. clean and dry your chain. dry your whole bike after lightly spraying/ cleaning. DO NOT USE A PRESSURE WASHER! DO NOT SPRAY THE MOTOR DIRECTLY- the water will blow right thru the bearings and into the motor case. use proper cleaner like muc-off for specific components. and GREASE ALL YOUR PIVOT POINTS to keep the mud and water out of the bearings. after 2 going on 3 years with the SAME emtb ridden very hard ALL ACROSS THE COUNTRY in super harsh conditions and i only had to change the brakes and tires...oh and one spoke broke.. battery cells still at roughly 95%.. so keep your battery between 15% and 85% for long term storage to keep from damaging your battery. Also keep it inside in the heat during the winter. most of what i spent on my emtb has been protection for it. Fenders front and rear both, full skin kit for the frame and custom full downtube mounted kydex bash guard. New carbon bars and rev grips. Rides like a dream and is soooooooooo Protected from most that life throws at it.
Sounds lile i am better off just keeping my old 26" scott with full suspension. 2008 bike. Never had to change anything but tyres and a couple of pads. Serviced the shocks once in that time. Everything still works great. New bikes seem to be more expensive and just designed to fail
I believe the cost percentage is equal to the bikes value. To be fair I need to factor in that I have no clue what a bike shop charges as I build and service my own bikes. My first ebike was a second hand Chinese generic one, yes, it was a poor hub drive and it eventually died on me but it got me hooked on ebikes. Cost of servicing was not more than any generic supermarket bike where about £50 would get you the whole drivetrain plus brakes replaced when needed. My Current 2017 Levo parts wise is obviously more but I do clean and relube it after every ride as I keep it in the house, once a year in winter I remove all the covers and clean/treat the electric connections as surprisingly the water gets into many of these and you could easily run into problems if left (and I know of one that cuts out etc due to electric gremlins). So far 2500+ miles and apart from a couple of sets of tyres (mostly experimenting for size/grip) and some brake pads it has been great. Original battery and motor so far.
Time will tell how long this will last.
I have a 2024 Canyon Torque on CF8. I have a battery and a motor but the rest of the bike is analog. Shimano XT and SLX is dirt cheap. You don’t need AXS Transmission an electronic dropper or auto shift.use an all steel cassette the most heavy duty chain and a steel chain ring. If you turn your bike upside down it replenishes the seals on the shock and you do not have to service the suspension all the time.
Think mine cost the same a year as my fridge freezer uses nothing noticable yet! Wait till April till we get hit even harder with the next cost of living crisis! Price's haven't been as high since 1948 their saying! Should be fun!
Its £74 for an Deore XT derailleur for my emtb I won't be changing to anything more expensive that's perfect normal riders don't go through as much maybe every second year alot people I know don't have any issues don't need to replace anything for this time think they replace a chain once a year regular monthly servicing think it's just that thing people try and drill into people's heads to frighten them to pay up
Cost per 1.000klms on my Orbea Rise is more or less 500€. Bearings, brake pads, maintenance products and labor costs is what will be in the 500€
My eMTB is fairly new, just 2000km on it. I routinely check the chain, lube it, make sure everything is tight and no rattling. END OF.
I would never have the motor ‘serviced’ and spend good money on something that’s not necessary.
Some of your video is just a bit over the top IMHO.
If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
£3500 per year, or £50 a ride, is about avg for me. I’m not high end, SRAM NX drive train for example. But I’ve gone through 2 shocks, 2 forks, 3 motors, 2 batteries, 3 entire brake systems, 4 rock guards, 5 cables, warped 6 rotors, 4 derailleurs, destroyed 3 rear wheels, 6 sets of pivot frame bearings. I wont mention chains cassettes pads etc as lost count and these are expected. I do some maintenance myself but anything harder than bleeding brakes I take it to mechanic. Lots of labour costs particularly with suspension servicing.
This is substantially more than maintaining an analogue full suss MTB, which was £1700 a year
What kind of mileage are we talking?
How is it even possible to mess up an entire brake system
20 to 30 mile per ride on average
Zero cost per ride so far in 12 months. What are you people doing
I have a nx drivetrain but have upgraded my derailleur to a gx and I may change the chain if it will up the lifespan of the cassette but I’m not going to bother changing the hub and cassette from the nx.
I have the solution to vandals cutting your control cables and turning that $6000 eMTB into a brick. Use 3.5 mm replacement extension cable male to male plug. You can get that at any Radio Shack or The Source for less than $5. Just modify your eMTB to accept 3.5mm audio cable instead of the regular control cables. Avoid bluetooth Just my opinion
i like your assessment of a bike in the $5000 range is more affordable to do repairs on vs $ 9000 but what about the quality of the metal used to build the parts? is the parts on a $5000 bike going to wear faster then the $9000 or is it going to be fairly similar?
You will find on average more expensive parts do wear faster as they tend to use light weight materials such as alloy as more premium parts tend to prioritise weight over longevity…. Cheaper cassettes tend to be heavier but made from much more durable materials such as steel, I personally would never go for an expensive drivetrain and actually wish we could build our own spec on more bikes! As it’s so rear to find a bike spec with a high end suspension and brakes with a cheaper drivetrain but that’s exactly how I’d build my bike! lol
@anonymousone6075 my username is obvious i like fishing, so i was drawing parallel to the fishing industry of something i didn't know. you could buy a fishing reel at a department store and buy one at an actual fishing store, both are identical physically same make and model etc.. i found this out from a fishing reel repair shop saying the reels from the fishing store is of a much higher quality metal then the department store one is of a lesser quality metal so its affordable. i was trying to find out if a lower cost ebike and such is the same principle. is a cheaper ebike parts of a lesser quality metal parts then a higher priced ebike. my current ebike is close to the same in millage as yours and so far i have not changed or repaired anything as alot of the usage has been on bike paths, fire roads and such, only the last year or two is when i started to hit the more technical trails and will purchase a new chain soon for a just in case scenario
for that money - need gearbox
ZEARODE style
went 1000 miles. in 8 months. To work, bike park, and to friends....never changed anything. Chain is still ok (checked it) the teeth on the kassette are equally fine... Brakepads are fine... My batterie is still giving me the same milage... ??
@anonymousone6075 yes chain was checked @900 miles.. Shimano. My rear Tyre is a continental kryptal. An fine for at least this season.. Maybe up to 2000.. I have three front. They should last for ever.. Didn't see any wear... Schwalbe Sam Plus in 29 for road and gravel, conti kryptal 29 for single trail and a 27.5 maxxis assegai for bike park... And from my analog bike I could use the Schwalbe noby nick 29 too
1 year use Raymon full ray 3 chains 2 sprockets 1 battery 1 dropper post the list goes on too fucking much.
One chain, two tyres, lube bottle and two or four brake pads a year.
If I were in the market for a new bike it'd be a pinion mgu 100%. Running pedal bike transmission on an ebike is rediculous.
Average ride 20km s ??? i am 60 and ride 40 km to the enduro park and 40 km back plus 2 rounds of the park (halde) big pit area. So perhaps that is whats eating up the chains the should never have bought the shite in the first place ,before some one says the obvious i have no car for transport.
I wish companies like Shimano and sram would stop wasting there time selling wireless BS drivetrains and start investing in belt drive and gear boxes! Pinion are almost there and if it can be perfected it would resolve so many issues!!! There would be minimum maintenance costs, much better weight distribution!! And improved suspension performance! But no, SRAM and Shimano are more interested in selling us 2k wireless drivetrains that have minimal improvements and resolve no current issues except having 1 less cable in your cockpit 😂 about time the industry gets told we don’t actually want mechs or heavy cassettes! We want belts and gearboxes and bikes that actually last!!!!
Bike shops charge ludicrous amounts for labor and generally do a piss poor job of it!
I agree 100%
@anonymousone6075 absolutely right! My head begins to hurt when these “professionals” start to talk about changing a cassette or bleeding brakes as if it were some dark science, accessible only to a special club of people… then they hand you a bike where the cranks haven’t been torqued down, the brakes have more air than fluid and every time
You change gear it sounds like you’ve cracked a rib. Charge you a couple of hundred dollars and worse still when you attempt to raise the issue they come out with some mumbo jumbo about it needing time to “bed-in” or that it’s supposed to be like that!
Last time I went to a Bosch Dealer in Lisbon/Portugal (Biclas do Rio @Algés), they asked 50€ just to read errors and make a pdf, because the bike was not bought there... and only thinking that I was about to buy a Citybike there.............was!
Is steves canyon in hiding just now lol? They told Sam Pilgrim he has the only one in the UK
I really considered link-glide in my recent change to shimano, but i dont trust its going to last 3 times as long. Would be ideal if link-glide cassette could work effectively as a standard XT mech this would be cool (please test @embnTech). I went with the XT cassette, mech, chain bundle at a third of the costs with a view of replacing more regularly. Key point is, if i crash damage the rear mech i am looking at replacement cost of £100 rather than £300
Still cheaper than a car in the end, more fun too.
Just run a 10 speed drivetrain. You don't need the range and all that gearing.
I don't think it cost that much more per mile and in some cases not at all.
Those blue spokes are so wrong
The rich and greedy have found another source of income from the peasants. Like fish and chips used to be the food of the poor man, cycling used to be cheap transport, now both aren't any longer. Also bikes aren't built to the standards they should be for the conditions of use.
BUY WHAT IT WAS BORN WITH THE HOLE SYSTEM MUST BE CLEAN AND OILED. WHER THE ELECTRIC CONNECTION WHITE LITHIUM ELECTRIC GREASE. THIS IS THE IMPORTANT THING KEEP THAT ELECTRIC CONNECTION CLEAN AND LUBED AUTOMOBILE BRAKE CLEANER WILL CLEAN THE ELECTRIC AND EVERY THING ELSE CAREFUL YOU DON'T BLAST CLEANER AIRASAL CLEAR UNDER THE SEALS OF THE MOTOR. WHICH CAN BE DISMANTLED AND GONE THROUGH...
WHY ARE YOU TYPING IN ALLCAPS IT IS EYERAPE TO READ AND DID YOU KNOW THAT PUNCTUATION EXISTS TO PREVENT US FROM LOOKING LIKE WE ARE GOING TO RUN OUT OF BREATH FROM SHOUTING AN EXTREMELY LONG SENTENCE LIKE THIS WITHOUT STOPPING BUT THANKS I WILL CONSIDER THE POINTS RAISED IN YOUR WONDERFULLY CONFUSING ADVICE POST BUT WAIT ACTUALLY WHY DID YOU ONLY USE AN INACCURATE ELLIPSIS AS THE ONLY PUNCTUATION IS THERE MORE I WONDER DID YOU PASS OUT FROM NOT BREATHING???...???...$%%££%£%£$£^t£)*(&*
Did he seriously say £2,000-2,200 for 2,000 miles. That is more pr. mile than the running costs of most cars and significantly more than most motorcycles! Can that really be true??? It would be about £10,000 yearly to substitute the car with an eBike, riding 10,000 miles a year. I REALLY hope this isn't the case. Is it?
My average ride costs me far more than what you quoted. It has been £50 per ride and the length is usually 20 to 30 miles. So more than £1 per mile. But if replacing a car you will be riding on roads. Riding off road is where it is expensive as it causes breakages, puts everything under far more strain, it uses the expensive suspension and exposes all electrical and mechanical components on the bike to very high levels of water, mud or dust
@@grannyjone I know the costs of riding a dual sport motorcycle (off road). And it is MUCH less than what they say about e-bikes here!
@@stefanhansen5882 I am very surprised to hear that a motorcycle would cost less than what is being quoted here to run an EMTB off road. I don’t have any experience with motorbikes off road though, but can only think E Bikes cost so much more because the components are light weight and not very durable ? Also some MTB components have very short service intervals for sure
@@grannyjone I was surprised too. I was considering an e-MTB instead of riding a dual sport motorcycle, to be able to get into national parks where motorcycles are forbidden. However, a good small motorcycle (e.g. Honda CRF300L) will cost less than £0.20 per mile (unless you wreck it). This includes the depreciation of the bike.
That's most likely the price if you're absolutely trashing the bike and do 0 mainstenance youself. You could replace a car with an ebike and for cummuting and spend about a 5% of that for the same distance if not even less
What a load of twaddle. 2000 to run an emtb a year, what parallel universe are you living in.
Is that a wig?
Don’t waste your money on high end drivetrain. A Deore XT combo is just fine. Here in southern Alberta we don’t ride in the muck you Brits ride in. My own Doddy has aGen 1 Levo approaching 30 K one motor and one battery since 2017.
I swapped mine for the new Sram transmission. It's futuristic, shifting feels fun, and it honestly works much better for me (I'd hope so for the ungodly amount I paid...). Granted, I'm a huuuuge sucker for tech, but hey. I love it. So for me it wasn't a waste of money 😊 To each their own.
@@The_1ntern3t I'm jealous. I want the X0 Eagle so bad I can taste it. I ride a Specialized Turbo Levo SL Comp.
I hope I get that kind of range out of my Gen 1 Levo battery. So far still at 100%. Only 150 miles.
Heck I went even cheaper with Microshift advent X with their ebike cassette. Works fine so lasting longer than XT
XT is pretty high end.
I watched my dad fix his vehicles when they broke. I learned very quickly how expensive it was so I became a maintenance person. I saved a lot of money on my cycles, motorcycles and vehicles as I've moved throughout my life. It's the only way to go, in my opinion. Maintenance is almost always cheaper than repair when broken.
There's a couple of things I would like to see in the Ebike world, not just the EMB world. I would like to see standardization of batteries, chargers etc so one could purchase batteries for their bike instead of just purchase one from the manufacturer of the bike. It's good for the environment, for the parts suppliers and for the consumer. A standardization of the motor mounting system would also benefit the consumer a lot more than the proprietary system we have right now.
Especially when it comes to wear items like casettes and chains not having the latest things helps. 11 speed is plenty for me.
just use deore not axs
Hardly, I got an all steel 11/51 shimano cassette for 39.99 on ebay, SLX parts arent that pricey and they work great.OEM Chain can be had for 25.00 US. If you bury the thing in water and mud, it will get very pricey.
Absolutely agree. My analogue bike is 10 years old and there's as much chance of servicing the fork as me winning next year's tour de France. My cube emtb is probably going to wear the chain more but its only £25 for a 122 link chain and regular self maintenance, I really don't think this video is going to encourage people to buy an electric
I have to say, that I don't find the cost of maintenance - outside of some key items - that much different to a standard MTB. If my maintenance costs are higher, its because I ride the bike soooooooooooooo much more. So it is self inflicted in that regard. However, I ride in the same terrain and more on the EMTB. Great vid BTW!
Its when the big stuff breaks out of warranty when it is really bad compared to a normal MTB. Like batteries and motors, which I have heard people paying £1000 for each
@@grannyjone I know someone on a leccy focus who was quoted £800 for new battery etc shop down the road done it for just over 300
i get 500 miles to a cassette and chain and get another 200 miles with jumping gears on my 4th one
If you need to factor in the cost of a circa 25p charge for your EMTB then you should probably go for an analog.
Fact
just think of the smile factor for 25p, that more than outweighs the meagre cost for charging..🙂
Fantastic video, great insight, I’m totally new to e-bikes. I’ve just bought the Orbea Wild M-team, with bog standard XT drivetrain, I intend to ride it as much as I can, want to get fitter/healthier? I’m aiming to get my fox forks, shock and dropper service once a year, and replace parts as and when they need it, just going to maintain it as best I can. Fingers crossed it won’t be too bad?? Keep up the awesome videos.👍👍
120e for chain??? Wtf at mx bikes an x ring is cheaper,thats the price of a 525-530 supersport chain🤔🤣
5500 kms on my Giant trance E.
Full drive train XT replaced 5 times( shimano hyperglide) , 6 set of tyres ( minnion DHR/DHF, now on Schwable Eddy Current), brake pads 6 times ( shimano) , original fork never serviced as well as shock ( Fox 36, DPS, they are fine, i oil and clean them)
I clean deeply and lube the chain and rear mech after each rides !! I don t wash or use water on it, i don t ride in the rain ( south africa)
So Far, same as my normal mtb beside getting pissed off by the 500 wh range or 1h10 mins = 30 kms Flat out.
All working perfectly , bike is restricted to 32 km/ hour, I ride exclusively off road in exposed terrain.
Remember Neil Young's Lamborghini. Who scratched the beautiful paint job on your Countach. It was a fan. Now ask Peter why the Chinese in Toronto hate Peter. The same reason they love Neil Young so much they scratched up his Lamborghini Countach outside Sam the Record Man. Jealousy. Why are they jealous? Because Neil Young is a famous musician with millions and Peter doesn't have to work. Peter also gets rent geared to income housing and social assistance. Now I am retired on a government pension. OAS-GIS $1600 per month and CPP $255 per month my rent is fixed at 30 percent of my annual income. I'm richer than Neil Young. That is why they hate me and swarm me all over the TTC. Plus I am protected by constant private surveillance called the Skansa Group of Karen WHICH IS MONITORED BY EVERYONE ON EARTH 8 billion eyes protect me my name is Lloyd in Dumb and Dumber. Karen followed rice bowl haircut Lloyd to Suisha Gardens in Ottawa and the rest is history
Besides the $100 per tire, $100 per chain, $120 per cassette $50 per brakes, $100. Per helmet, $50 per gloves. $120 for shoes, I had to replace my battery$700. Hmmmm
Hahaha what a joke.. i run a bbshd 1000w, deore 10speed setup standard chain to suit, basic shimano hydralic brakes, and a decent rear hub and some $500 aud suntour forks...i have beaten the crap out of it for the past few years on and off road racked up 15000km on it....few sets of tires, brake pads and a few chains and cassettes..learn to do your own basic preventative maintenance and servicing, its not hard....might have spent $5-600 on it... If you go and spend big bux on a high end emtb well yer costs go up because you have to get that specific part.. build ya own emtb and the prices come down drastically and the durability is increased massively...i will put my built emtb up against any of these brought 250w gutless things!
DEPRECIATION
If you think nornal bikes loose too much value too fast don't even think about it since they're outdated every 6 months.
Ebike and mountainbike rental prices are nuts, 60 quid for 2 hours... 😂 Can hire a car for a full day for this with unlimited miles.
So like all gmbn embn channels. Their's little to no useful information. Talking about hire bikes then pretty much saying nothing as always and sticking to the middle line of we know nothing really but here's some bs for the noobs.
Keep posting bs vids 😎👍
An ebike is a bit like a car I guess. You can go into endless technical details but you buy just to ride it. You just bring it in after so many kilometers or every year and then all the components get serviced. You should be able to buy it with a service plan.
50hr for rear float X service recommended that would be like every week stripping your shock maybe less that's alot! I don't hammer the shite out my emtb like alot people ride like they stole it sorta thing i can't just go replace something this costly easy and won't get any easier either soon with prices going up to sky highest ever so just waiting to see what we are gonna be taxed on with the bike part's!
The title of this vlog is deceptive. Lits of of talk about obvious facts but no indicative costs of running an ebike.
The message appears to be, spend your money if it gives you pleasure. Not very useful.
Is the hair some kind of in-joke for subscribers? Did you lose a bet? Is there some rare migratory bird nesting in there, and it would be illegal to get it cut until the chicks leave?
Great video but guys you forgot to work in the costs of a third world country like South Africa where i live the prices for drivetrains and ebikes is sky high
What is that on your head?
Nobody seems to mention that trying to get the service/replacement parts is almost impossible in this country
I charge both of our EV bikes from our home solar - powered by the sun ☀⚡
I've a Cube Reaction Hard tail. I was going on the local downhill track...I was around 12th out of 284 embners on Strava and I have a few KOMs mostly on uphill segments. Then I decided to stick on single tracks...trails and roads...in 5 years I've changed my cassette, sprocket and chain once and done over 13,200 miles I've changed brake pads 4 times but not the rotas. I've been through 4 sets of pedals. 2 sets of grips. 6 tyres and 1 rear brake lever all in that 5 years. I'm OCD on the drive chain. I'd say I've getting VFM out of this bike.
toyota needs to start making EMDB ! OMG
In the winter, rear pads every 50miles 😬😬😬
Ok got it, I'm just going to buy some hiking boots instead of an ebike.
gx are cheaper now than they were
With such short service intervals for forks it makes a great case for running higher end Suntour forks if you wanta cost effective bike. Yes you still need to service the lower legs, but the damper is a sealed unit... so you just run it until doesn't work... then pop in a replacement. I think most people will change their bike before they exceed the damper's useful life.
It really depends how you ride!
I can spent over 300euros in a weekend, if things are ridden like it was stolen!
Pair of tires 120
A RD+hanger 100
Suspension service 150
Riding normally
A set of tires
Suspension service
Brake pads + bleed
Cables + chainlube + bike cleaner
This for 1.000 km
Has parts get used --> drivetrain, brake discs, rims, headset, seatpost service
the maintenance infrastructure seems to be much better in the UK.. I have no idea where I would even have my suspension serviced in my area to be honest. Especially without having the bike gone for weeks. I might have to do it myself- but a 30h interval feels completely unrealistic
You don't discuss the battery at all. Apparently Shimano doesn't make the external batteries anymore, and while everything else is still serviceable, I will have to replace my bike because of the battery eventually
im pumping up to 2500w through shimano deior 10sp with a ekmc chain for last two years no issues yet. im always worried something is going to break! but till then fun fun fun and maintenance
T Type GX is much cheaper and if you go wax instead of wet lube your running gear will last for ages. And Perelli tires last way longer than Maxis.
Thanks guys ... " They say buy e-mtb "... Oh i did ... I guess with $2300 off my bike i have not gotten a great deal
I never service anything. Once the ash tray is full, I get a new bike.
How much did you spend on that fro?
7:30
2 Chainz!
I have a Turbo Levo & have just passed over 2,000km. It’s going to cost £240 to have it serviced & although this might seem steep, I’d rather have it back knowing I’ve done my best to keep it going for another year without major maintenance. When you think about the overall costs involved with ebiking & the equipment, any sane person would just take up walking & splash out on a good pair of Asics! 😂
Walking is a bit too boring for me. Mtb can still be done fairly cheap - analogue hardtail
Why not try servicing it yourself, rthere's loads of videos here and GMBN Tech on most items you can do yourself, or why not by the GMBN/EMBN Tech manual..
I'd be interested to find out if most people fully charge their ebike before they go out, regardless of time they'll be out for? I usually charge my bike to around 80% when not in use, and if I know I'm only going out for a couple of hours I won't bother topping it up to 100% because I won't get through a full charge in that time.
I always charge to full and I do that every time I get below 50% or before a longer ride. I also let the bike with battery in the cold garage all year round and for all I know the battery has about the same capacity as it always had. I do own one older EMTB from about 2015 with a gen 1 Bosch motor and a 400kW battery.. and even that bike still has about the same range now..
@anonymousone6075 Yeah, that's pretty much how I look after my battery. I noticed the percentage usually drops 2 to 3 % a week if left unused. I don't let it get too low, but it's never left for longer than about a month before I actually get out for a ride.
I ran a Shimano xt drive train on my last E bike .... £160 for a derailleur but they don't seem to be strong enough for an E bike and the style of riding ido ...... As I went through 8 of them inn 2 years 😅😅 2 cassettes and 3 or 4 chains .... I now own the SRAM T type and I'm hoping itle last me about 2 years without changing anything...... Maybe a chain which I can get for £55/65 if so this will level out price wise with the Shimano xt drive train........
The new SRAM T-Type is a great option Burgieee123. hopefully it should last you a long time as you can purchase a rebuild kit if necessary 🤙would be great to hear your experience
@@embnye il definitely let you guys know how I get along with it 👌🏻 and i will be doing some research on those rebuild kits if it means saving cost on the way as the actual derailleurs cost a fortune 😅👌🏻
122 link chain for 11 speed emtb is around £25, you need to shop around
Even Cycling is for the rich now! Don't see youngsters riding bikes like we used when we were younger these bikes don't help. Yes world has changed but bikes same price of cars please.
There are some great deals to be had currently! Secondhand prices seem to be going down 👇
100% agree with you I don't care what anyone says £10k-£12k on some of these things is crazy money. you can buy a brand new motor bike for that which would have cos a lot more to build than any emtb ever has or will.
The same old argument has been debunked time and time again... you can get a nice hardtail MTB for less than $1000, and plenty of full-suspension bikes under $2000, and even eMTBs from around $4000 these days... Buying a high-end MTB is like buying a Porsche or Ferrari compared to a Volkswagen or Ford Fiesta - you're buying the highest performance/specification (and in many cases with MTBs the same components the pros are actually racing), but there is still something out there for everyone, depending on your budget.
@@jmo2752 yeah I agree with that but still crazy money to mere mortals 😂. I’ve just bought one for £4k new a orbea wild h20 and I love it tbh not the greatest spec but more than enough for what I’d ever put it through.
Emtbs can be expensive if you choose to buy an expensive one, but if you shop around for good deals on new bikes or look out for used bargains if you are mechanically minded then you can spend very little. There are good new full-sus bikes from around £3500 and used from £1500. You may have to sacrifice certain things like battery capacity, but even a 400 / 500wh battery will still allow an all day ride as long as you are economic with power modes on a longer ride. Lightweight riders can get away with smaller batteries than heavier riders. Also you don't need high end components. Sram NX or Shimano Deore drivetrains shift great and are durable. Quality Suntour air forks like the Aion range are cost effective, durable, and to the average rider feel as good as the big 2 brands. There is really no need to spend any more than £4500 unless you just want nicer stuff, but it's the same with cars. If you are on a budget get a Dacia and you will enjoy it... if you have a ton of disposable income then why not go all out and buy a Porche or Mercedes.
I'll gladly stick with my rigid single speed thank you very much.